Color and Whiteness Properties of Fabrics Knitted from Different Hybrid Core-Spun Yarns Containing Metal Wire

Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.7, 1067-1074

1067

Color and Whiteness Properties of Fabrics Knitted from Different

Hybrid Core-Spun Yarns Containing Metal Wire

Huseyin Gazi Ortlek*, Gamze Kilic, Gaye Yolacan, and Mustafa Tutak

Department of Textile Engineering, Erciyes University, Kayseri, Turkey

(Received April 9, 2010; Revised June 10, 2010; Accepted June 27, 2010)

Abstract: In this study, the color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from ring, siro and compact core-spun yarns con-taining metal wire were investigated. In general, an increase in the metal ratio of yarns causes a decrease in the whiteness andcolor strengths of fabrics. In our study, spinning method had no statistically significant effect on either the T

w or K/S values of

fabrics while the effect of spinning method on the whiteness index of fabrics was briefly observed. Fabrics knitted from sirospun yarns showed higher whiteness properties than those of fabrics knitted from compact and ring spun yarns. This might beexplained by the superior covering effectiveness of the siro spinning method on metal wire.

Keywords: Hybrid core-spun yarns, Whiteness index, Color strength, Optical brightening

Introduction

With the rapid increase in use of electrical and electronic

devices which operate at high frequencies, the perception

and awareness of possible threats to equipment and people

from electrostatic discharge and electromagnetic interference

(EMI) has increased. Electronic products are becoming

increasingly smaller, and are sensitive to sudden electrostatic

discharge when they do not have any protective inbuilt

device. During the triboelectric charging of objects, induction

and electrostatic charge on the human body can generate

electrostatic charge [1]. This charging is especially dangerous

in explosive atmospheres which often occur in the chemical,

petrochemical, food and woodworking industries, among

others [2]. Electrostatic discharge also generates signal

interference, resulting in electrical malfunction or other

types of breakdown [1]. Many devices used every day in our

homes and offices, such as AC motors, computers, printers,

cell phones, modems and microwave ovens are capable of

emitting electromagnetic radiation. There is ongoing controversy

worldwide about the potential health hazards associated with

exposure to electromagnetic fields [3]. Therefore, electro-

magnetic shielding and electrostatic protection are very

important.

Traditionally metals and alloys have been used for

electromagnetic shielding and electrostatic protection. These

materials are heavy and inflexible. Therefore there is a

growing need for textile materials which have good

electrical and magnetic properties due to their flexibility and

conformability. In general, textile products made of organic

polymers are electrically insulating and transparent to

electromagnetic radiation. Methods of producing electrically

conductive textiles can be mainly categorized under two

headings, surface treatments and fillers. Surface treatments,

based on depositing finish on the textile’s surface are time

consuming, labor intensive, costly and often do not assure

stable improved results, due to their low washing and

abrasion resistance during use of the products [2,4].

Conductive fillers such as metal, metalized fibers and fibers

manufactured of polymers modified with particles of carbon

black, graphite and metallic powders, are being increasingly

used in the production of electrically conductive textiles.

Many researchers have attempted to develop textile fabrics

by using conductive fillers [2-9].

The biggest advantage of using metal wire as an electro-

conductive filler is that the anti-electrostatic effect is very

stable and is not influenced by environmental humidity.

However the metal wires affect the esthetic and comfort

properties of the fabrics.

Fabric developed for electromagnetic shielding and

electrostatic protection has to provide at least acceptable

esthetic and comfort properties, if it will be used as a

garment. The color and whiteness are two of the basic

measurable parameters of aesthetic properties. The purpose

of this study was to evaluate the color and whiteness

properties of fabrics knitted from different hybrid core-spun

yarns containing metal wire, by considering spinning

method, ratio of metal wire and concentrations of dyeing and

optical brightening.

Materials and Method

In this study, different kinds of yarns were produced using

a sample ring spinning frame (EJM 168) with 96 spindles

which has a special apparatus for producing hybrid core-

spun yarns. Ring, siro and compact spinning methods were

used for producing yarn types.

For all yarn types, cotton fibers were used as covering

materials. The Urfa ST1 type cotton which we used had the

following properties: 4.59 micronaire reading, 28.93 UHML,

uniformity index of 84.5, 7.32 % breaking elongation and

30.61 g/tex strength. The cotton bales were processed on the*Corresponding author: [email protected]

DOI 10.1007/s12221-010-1067-8

1068 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.7 Huseyin Gazi Ortlek et al.

traditional short staple combed system using standard mill

procedures, adjustments and practices. Two different finenesses,

20 micron and 35 micron, of stainless steel were used as core

materials.

All yarns were produced at 15.000 rpm spindle speed,

with a total draft ratio of 28.24. Ring and compact spun

yarns were manufactured from a Ne 0.85 count roving

whereas siro spun yarn was produced from two Ne 1.7 count

rovings. Siro spun yarns were produced with 8 mm strand

spacing. The core draft ratio of “1” and the twist coefficient

(αe) of “3.7” were selected for all hybrid core-spun yarn

samples.

The compositions and specifications of the yarns are listed

in Table 1 and Table 2, respectively.

Visual comparisons of yarn and fabric types were examined

with an Olympus SZ61 stereo microscope and are given in

Figure 1 and Figure 2, respectively.

After spinning, we made these yarns into single jersey

knitted fabrics using an automatic sample circular knitting

machine (Faycon CKM-01-S, Ipekcioglu GmbH, Turkey).

Fabric specifications are listed in Table 3.

Table 2. Yarn specifications

Yarn code Nominal yarn count (Ne) Yarn count (Ne)

R 24 24.00

C 24 23.63

S 24 24.40

RC-S20 24 23.64

CC-S20 24 24.02

SC-S20 24 23.85

RC-S35 24 24.47

CC-S35 24 24.00

SC-S35 24 24.00

Table 1. Compositions of yarns

Yarn

code

Production

technique

Composition

(%)Stainless steel

R Ring spun Co : 100 -

C Compact spun Co : 100 -

S Siro spun Co : 100 -

RC-S20 Ring core-spun Co/M: 80/20 Nm 200 (Ø 0.02 mm)

CC-S20 Compact core-spun Co/M: 80/20 Nm 200 (Ø 0.02 mm)

SC-S20 Siro core-spun Co/M: 80/20 Nm 200 (Ø 0.02 mm)

RC-S35 Ring core-spun Co/M: 69/31 Nm 131 (Ø 0.035 mm)

CC-S35 Compact core-spun Co/M: 69/31 Nm 131 (Ø 0.035 mm)

SC-S35 Siro core-spun Co/M: 69/31 Nm 131 (Ø 0.035 mm)

Co: cotton, M: metal wire (stainless steel).

Figure 1. Longitudinal views of yarns at the magnification of 45×.

Color Properties of Fabrics Knitted from Hybrid Yarns Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.7 1069

Pre-treatment and Bleaching

Fabric samples were bleached using a piece dyeing

machine (ATC-DYE PRC01/05/25, Atac GmbH, Turkey). A

Liquor to fabric ratio of 20:1 was used. The bleaching bath

contained 5 ml/l sodium hydroxide (NaOH, 38oBe’), 4 ml/l

hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 -50 %) and 1 ml/l wetting agent

(Setawet BNT-Setash GmbH, Turkey). Fabrics were bleached

at 95oC for 45 min. Afterwards, the fabric samples were

washed with running tap water, neutralized with acetic acid,

and then washed with distilled water until the solution

became neutral. They were then dried under laboratory

conditions.

Optical Brightening

The optical brightener-Blankophor BBU (Bayer) was used

at concentrations of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, and 1 % owf (on

weight of fiber). A Liquor to fabric ratio of 20:1 was used.

The brightening process began at 25 oC in a bath containing

optical brightener, distilled water and fabric samples. The

temperature was raised to 85oC in 20 min and held constant

for 45 min. The temperature was decreased to 40 oC, the

samples were rinsed with cold tap water and then dried

under laboratory conditions.

Dyeing

The fabric samples were dyed in laboratory equipment

(Termal HT, Turkey). About 5 g of fabric samples was

weighted and a liquor to fabric ratio of 20:1 was used.

Reactive dye (Procion Navy H-EXL, Dystar) was used and

the fabric samples were dyed with 0.1, 0.5, 1, and 2 % owf

(on weight of fiber). The all-in exhaust dyeing method was

used. Dyeing process began at 25 ºC in dye baths containing

50 g/l Glauber’s salt, 20 g/l soda, dye, fabric samples, and

distilled water. The temperature was raised to 85 ºC in

20 min and held constant for 60 min. The temperature was

decreased to 40 ºC, the samples were rinsed with cold tap

water, washed with non-ionic detergent (1 g/l Setalan BNH-

Setash GmbH) at boiling temperature, rinsed with hot tap

water and then dried under laboratory conditions.

Figure 2. Microscopic views of fabrics samples at the magnification of 20×.

Table 3. Fabric specifications

Fabric codecpc

(course per cm)

wpc

(wale per cm)

Weight

(g/m2)

R 10.6 12.2 126.9

C 11.0 13.0 138.1

S 9.8 12.2 115.3

RC-S20 7.9 10.6 108.3

CC-S20 9.8 9.1 114.1

SC-S20 9.1 8.3 96.8

RC-S35 8.7 8.3 91.8

CC-S35 9.8 7.9 99.8

SC-S35 7.9 8.3 90.9


The bleaching, optical brightening and dyeing diagrams

used are shown in Figure 3(a), (b), and (c), respectively.

Whiteness Index and Color Measurements

The samples’ color measurements were carried out using a

reflectance spectrophotometer (Konica Minolta 3600d) and

color measuring software (Real Color v1.3).

Whiteness assessment is of obvious importance if the final

color of the product is to be sensibly white. Whiteness can

be equally important when the final color of the product is

not white. The higher the WCIE value (CIE Whiteness

Index), the higher the whiteness of the specimen is. For the

perfect reflecting diffuser, WCIE=100. If a specimen

containing optical brighteners can have WCIE>>100. Tw

was calculated by software of the spectrophotometer for

determination of the tint (Tw) of sensibly white specimens.

For neutral whites, including the perfect reflecting diffuser,

Tw=0. If T

w>0 the specimen is a greenish-white; if T

w<0 it is

reddish [10].

The color coordinates of the dyed fabric samples were

measured from 400 to 700 nm under D 65/10 º illuminant in

the specular component included (SCI) mode and reflectance

values of the dyed samples were obtained at the wavelength

of maximum absorption (λmax

: 610 nm). Color strength (K/S)

value is the basis of the Kubelka-Munk equation, which

relates to the absorption function of the substrate (K), the

scattering function of the substrate (S), and the fractional

reflectance (R) according to the following equation (1).

(1)

In the color measurement of the samples, four layers of

fabric were used, and the fabrics were emplaced face to face

to prevent the formation of shadows which the reflectance

spectrophotometer could detect as depth of shade.

The results were also evaluated for significance in differences

using three-way repeated measures analysis of variance

(ANOVA). The mean differences of subgroups were also

compared by a post hoc Tukey test at 95 % significance

level using the SPSS statistical package.

Results and Discussion

Figure 4 shows the WCIE values of fabrics before and

after optical brightening. As seen in Figure 4, fabrics knitted

from yarns without metal wire show higher whiteness values

than fabrics knitted from yarns containing 20 and 31 %

metal wire, before and after each concentrations of optical

brightening. The whiteness of fabrics decreased as the ratio

of metal wire used was increased. As seen in Figure 4, the

effect of metal wire content on the WCIE values of fabrics

shows differences the fabrics knitted from different yarn

types.

The results of the ANOVA for WCIE values of fabrics

after optical brightening are given in Table 4. According to

the ANOVA results, factors which are spinning method,

metal wire and optical brightener are statistically significant

in the fabrics’ WCIE values. The effects of the interaction

between spinning method and metal wire, spinning method

and optical brightener, metal wire and optical brightener

factors are also found to be statistically significant for fabric

whiteness the while triple interaction of factors is not

K/S1 R–( )

2

2R------------------=

Figure 3. The bleaching (a), optical brightening (b) and dyeing (c) diagrams of fabrics.

Figure 4. WCIE values of fabrics after optical brightening; ( )

0 % metal wire, ( ) 20 % metal wire, and ( ) 31 % metal

wire.

◆

■ ▲


statistically significant at 95 % confidence level.

The mean differences of subgroups were compared and

interpreted for only statistically significant factors by using

Tukey test. If the mean difference is positive, the value of

factor (I) is higher than that of factor (J). In contrast, if the

mean difference (I-J) is negative that means the value of

factor (J) is higher compared to the value of factor (I).

As seen in Table 5, the whiteness of fabrics knitted from

siro spun yarns is statistically higher than that of fabrics

knitted from ring spun yarns. According to the Tukey test,

the mean difference between fabrics knitted from compact

and siro yarns is not significant even though the whiteness

index of fabrics knitted from compact spun yarns is slightly

lower than that of fabrics knitted from siro spun yarns.

The mean difference of whiteness index of fabrics knitted

from yarns with different metal wire ratios is significant for

each factor level. Fabrics knitted from yarns without metal

wire are whiter than fabrics knitted from yarns containing 20

and 31 % ratios of metal wire. In addition, fabrics knitted

from yarns containing 20 % metal wire are slightly whiter

compared to fabrics knitted from yarns containing 31 %

metal wire.

The differences between mean values of whiteness index

of the fabrics are statistically significant for all concentrations

of optical brightener according to Tukey test (Table 5).

There, we can see that the highest whiteness value is

obtained from fabrics which were treated with 1 % optical

brightener concentration and followed by 0.75, 0.5, and

0.25 % concentrations.

Figure 5 shows Tw values of fabrics before and after

optical brightening. It can be seen that before optical

brightening treatment, the Tw values of fabrics knitted from

ring and siro spun yarns without metal wire are higher than

that of the fabrics knitted from compact spun yarns. After

optical brightening, the Tw values of all samples are negative

(Tw<0) which means the fabrics were reddish white.

Table 4. ANOVA table of WCIE

SourceType III sum of

squaresdf Mean square F P

Corrected model 12213.469(a) 35 348.956 73.917 0.000

Intercept 1472212.832 1 1472212.832 311849.607 0.000

Spinning method (SM) 177.708 2 88.854 18.821 0.000 significant

Metal ratio (MR) 6753.948 2 3376.974 715.323 0.000 significant

Optical brightener (OB) 4870.534 3 1623.511 343.898 0.000 significant

SM * MR 131.710 4 32.928 6.975 0.000 significant

SM * OB 108.188 6 18.031 3.819 0.002 significant

MR * OB 117.425 6 19.571 4.146 0.001 significant

SM * MR * OB 53.956 12 4.496 0.952 0.501

Error 339.905 72 4.721

Total 1484766.206 108

Corrected total 12553.374 107

Table 5. Multiple comparisons of subgroups for WCIE values

(I) Spinning

method

(J) Spinning

method

Mean

difference (I-J)Sig.

RingCompact -2.1856* 0.000

Siro -3.0478* 0.000

CompactRing 2.1856* 0.000

Siro -0.8622* 0.218

SiroRing 3.0478* 0.000

Compact 0.8622* 0.218

(I) Metal ratio (J) Metal ratio

0 %20 % 15.0339* 0.000

31 % 18.0953* 0.000

20 % 0 % -15.0339* 0.000

31 % 3.0614* 0.000

31 %0 % -18.0953* 0.000

20 % -3.0614* 0.000

(I) Opt. bright.

concentration

(J) Opt. bright.

concentration

0.25 %

0.5 % -9.5541* 0.000

0.75 % -14.2581* 0.000

1 % -17.9256* 0.000

0.5 %

0.25 % 9.5541* 0.000

0.75 % -4.7041* 0.000

1 % -8.3715* 0.000

0.75 %

0.25 % 14.2581* 0.000

0.5 % 4.7041* 0.000

1 % -3.6674* 0.000

1 %

0.25 % 17.9256* 0.000

0.5 % 8.3715* 0.000

0.75 % 3.6674* 0.000

*The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.


Table 6 shows the ANOVA results of Tw values of fabrics

after optical brightening. Metal wire ratio and optical brightener

concentration are found to be statistically significant while

the spinning method is non-significant on the Tw values of

fabric samples. According to ANOVA results (Table 6), the

effects of the interaction between metal ratio and optical

brightener concentration are also found to be statistically

significant.

Table 7 shows the multiple comparisons of subgroups for

Tw values. Similar to the WCIE results, the T

w values of

fabrics knitted from yarns without metal wire are higher than

those of fabrics knitted from yarns containing 20 and 31 %

ratios of metal wire. The Tw values of fabrics knitted from

yarns containing 20 % metal wire are also significantly

higher compared to fabrics knitted from yarns containing

31 % metal wire. We can see that the highest Tw value is

obtained from fabrics which were treated with 1 % optical

brightener concentration and followed by 0.75, 0.5, and

0.25 % concentrations.

Figure 5. Tw values of fabrics after optical brightening; ( ) 0 %

metal wire, ( ) 20 % metal wire, and ( ) 31 % metal wire.

◆

■ ▲

Table 6. ANOVA table of Tw




Intercept 95.316 1 95.316 8294.361 0.000

Spinning method (SM) 0.045 2 0.022 1.947 0.150


Optical brightener (OB) 0.312 3 0.104 9.038 0.000 significant

SM * MR 0.071 4 0.018 1.538 0.200

SM * OB 0.084 6 0.014 1.215 0.309

MR * OB 1.161 6 0.194 16.841 0.000 significant

SM * MR * OB 0.103 12 0.009 0.748 0.700

Error 0.827 72 0.011

Total 99.778 108


Table 7. Multiple comparisons of subgroups for Tw values

(I) Spinning

method

(J) Spinning

method

Mean


RingCompact -0.0339 0.377

Siro -0.0486 0.139

CompactRing -0.0339 0.377

Siro -0.0147 0.830

SiroRing -0.0486 0.139

Compact -0.0147 0.830


0 %20 % -0.2269* 0.000

31 % -0.3106* 0.000

20 %0 % -0.2269* 0.000

31 % -0.0836* 0.004

31 %0 % -0.3106* 0.000

20 % -0.0836* 0.004

(I) Opt. bright.

concentration

(J) Opt. bright.

concentration

0.25 %

0.5 % -0.0841(*) 0.026

0.75 % -0.0626 0.149

1 % -0.0526 0.281

0.5 %

0.25 % -0.0841(*) 0.026

0.75 % -0.0215(*) 0.882

1 % -0.1367(*) 0.000

0.75 %

0.25 % -0.0626 0.149

0.5 % -0.0215 0.882

1 % -0.1152(*) 0.001

1 %

0.25 % -0.0526 0.281

0.5 % -0.1367(*) 0.000

0.75 % -0.1152(*) 0.001



The K/S values of fabrics after dyeing are given in Figure 6.

At each dyeing concentration the K/S values of fabrics

knitted from yarns without metal wire are higher than those

of fabrics knitted from yarns containing metal wire with

ratios of 20 and 31 %. This might be explained by the fact

that yarns without metal wire have more fibers in their yarn

structure than yarns which contain metal wire. As known,

reactive dyes have affinity only to the cotton fibers of these

yarns. Therefore, the more fibers a yarn has, the more

dyeable regions it has. In the structure of yarns containing

metal wire, cotton fibers were covered on the central metal

wire. In this study, we intended that the metal wire should

not appear on the surface of the yarn as soon as possible so

that the reflectance spectrophotometer would not detect the

metal wire as depth of shade which causes a darker color

sense on the spectrophotometer. In addition, the K/S values

also increased with increased dyeing concentration.

Without metal wire, the color strengths of fabrics knitted

from ring spun yarns are higher than those of fabrics knitted

Figure 6. K/S values of fabrics after dyeing; ( ) 0 % metal wire,

( ) 20 % metal wire, and ( ) 31 % metal wire.

◆

■ ▲

Table 8. ANOVA table of K/S




Intercept 4523.307 1 4523.307 19238.866 0.000

Spinning method (SM) 0.331 2 0.165 0.703 0.499


Dye concentration (DC) 2247.444 3 749.148 3186.333 0.000 significant

SM * MR 2.907 4 0.727 3.092 0.021 significant

SM * DC 0.679 6 0.113 0.481 0.820

MR * DC 64.756 6 10.793 45.904 0.000 significant

SM * MR * DC 3.714 12 0.310 1.317 0.228

Error 16.928 72 0.235

Total 6931.185 108


Table 9. Multiple comparisons of subgroups for K/S values

(I) Spinning method (J) Spinning methodMean


RingCompact -0.0092* 0.996

Siro -0.1217* 0.539

CompactRing 0.0092* 0.996

Siro -0.1125* 0.589

SiroRing 0.1217* 0.539

Compact 0.1125* 0.589


0 %20 % 1.7778* 0.000

31 % 1.6589* 0.000

20 % 0 % -1.7778* 0.000

31 % -0.1189* 0.554

31 % 0 % -1.6589* 0.000

20 % 0.1189* 0.554

(I) Dye concentration (J) Dye concentration

0.1 %

0.5 % -3.0322* 0.000

1 % -6.6348* 0.000

2 % -12.2537* 0.000

0.5 %

0.1 % 3.0322* 0.000

1 % -3.6026* 0.000

2 % -9.2215* 0.000

1 %

0.1 % 6.6348* 0.000

0.5 % 3.6026* 0.000

2 % -5.6189* 0.000

2 %

0.1 % 12.2537* 0.000

0.5 % 9.2215* 0.000

1 % 5.6189* 0.000



from compact and siro spun yarns. On the other hand,

fabrics knitted from siro core and compact core-spun yarns

containing metal wire show higher color strengths than

fabrics knitted from ring core-spun yarns containing metal

wire, as seen in Figure 6.

The ANOVA results for the K/S values of fabrics are given

in Table 8. These were similar to the results of the Tw values.

Metal ratio and dye concentration factors are statistically

significant while the spinning method is not statistically

significant on K/S values of fabrics. The effects of the

interaction between metal ratio and dye concentration are

also found to be statistically significant on K/S values of the

fabrics.

Multiple comparisons of subgroups for K/S values are

summarized in Table 9. K/S values of fabrics knitted from

yarns without metal wire are higher than those of the fabrics

knitted from yarns containing 20 and 31 % ratios of metal

wire. According to Tukey test, the mean difference between

the metal ratios of 20 and 31 % is not significant. The K/S

values of fabrics dyed with 2 % dye concentration are the

highest, followed by 1, 0.5, and 0.1 % concentrations. In

other words, darker colors were obtained from fabrics

knitted using yarns without metal wire and dyed with 2 %

dye concentration.

Conclusion

In this study, the color and whiteness properties of fabrics

knitted from different hybrid core-spun yarns containing

metal wire were examined by considering spinning method,

ratio of metal wire and the concentrations of dyeing and

optical brightening.

Spinning method had no significant effect statistically on

either the Tw or the K/S values of fabrics. However, the effect

of the spinning method on the whiteness index values of

fabrics was briefly observed. The whiteness index values of

fabrics knitted from siro spun yarns were superior to those of

fabrics knitted from compact and ring spun yarns. Although

the siro and compact spun yarns showed no significant

difference with regard to whiteness values statistically, the

whiteness index of fabrics knitted from compact spun yarns

was slightly low compared to that of fabrics knitted from

siro spun yarns.

In general, an increase in the metal ratio of yarns caused a

decrease in whiteness and color strengths of fabrics. Darker

colors were obtained from fabrics knitted from ring spun

yarns without metal wire. However, in fabrics knitted from

different yarn types containing metal wire, the color

strengths of fabrics knitted from siro and compact spun

yarns were superior to those of fabrics knitted from ring

spun yarns. This might be explained by the superior

covering effectiveness of the siro and compact spinning

methods on metal wire which is compromise with the optical

views of these yarns.

It can be concluded that the metal wire content of yarns

has a detractive influence on whiteness and color strength

properties of fabrics. For this reason, metal wire should be

covered by fibers as much as possible. The siro spinning

method, which is used to produce siro core-spun yarns and

modified from ring spinning technology, is favorable on

account of its superior whiteness and color properties.

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by the Turkish Ministry of

Industry and Trade, contract number 00231.STZ.2008-1.

The views expressed in this work are not those the Turkish

Ministry of Industry and Trade. The authors would like to

thank the Ministry for its financial support.

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Documents

Color and Whiteness Properties of Fabrics Knitted from Different Hybrid Core-Spun Yarns Containing Metal Wire