Javier Jiménez Marco - AITEX

year

xxi

No.

67

2.nd

qua

rter

202

1

CEO of Lanzadera

JavierJiménez Marco

COSMETICSCDTI-CIEN FUN@CTIVE Project [Page 42]

AITEX wins the WORTH II project award from the European Commission [Page 30]

The responsability of the opinions expressed in the published articles belong exclusively to the authors.The publication of the articles is authorized, indicating its origin.

AITEX, Textile Research Institute, is a private for non-profi t association, founded in 1985 at the initiative of textile manufacturers and Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE "Institut Valencià de Competitivitat Empresarial", taking part as well in REDIT "Red de Institutos de la Comunitat Valenciana"

Published by AITEX, Instituto Tecnológico TextilPlaza Emilio Sala, 1 E-03801 Alcoy • Tel. 96 554 22 00 • Fax 96 554 34 94 • [email protected] • www.aitex.esDesign and Layout: weaddyou, S.L.Legal Deposit: V-2170-2001 • ISSN: 2173-1012

AITEX Annual Report www.aitex.es

2.nd quarter 2021 number 67

_edit rialWhat better way to strengthen this 2021 than by launching the third AITEX Business Awards. Reward-ing the most exciting initiatives and projects from the Spanish textile industry is without a doubt, the best way of recognising a sector that is working so hard to adapt to new challenges and social and econom-ic changes. Textile companies continue to advance and innovate in manufacturing processes, with new materials and innovative textile applications, with sustainability as a common denominator to achiev-ing the transformation and growth of companies that have to deal with today’s globalised and highly competitive environment.

Within the framework of Corporate Social Responsibility, AITEX from its leadership and its commitment to the 2030 Agenda, collaborates with UNICEF Spain in the initiatives, “Schools for Africa and Schools for Asia in Bangladesh”. Schools for Africa and Asia facilitate access to quality education, thus complying with children’s rights and with SDG 4 on Quality Education.

AITEX has had the opportunity of interviewing the CEO of LANZAD-ERA, Javier Jiménez, who explains the importance of supporting entre-preneurs. Javier believes that there are no magic formulas for success, just hard work and perseverance, coupled with the right training to lay the foundations for a successful business with a well-chosen team. He also stresses that the pres-ence of start-ups in the textile sector is vital, and sev-eral have been supported by Lanzadera.

In the field of research, AITEX is collaborating with eight Spanish companies and two research organi-

sations to strengthen ongoing research in the FUN@CTIVE project, which focuses on the research and development of new functional materials of natural and synthetic origin using sustainable technologies for the cosmetic and textile industry sectors. The project is supported and funded by the Centre for the Development of Industrial Technology (CDTI) within the framework of the CIEN Programme.

AITEX continues to explore the development of new products that bring new opportunities and solutions to the industrial sector. TEXTIL VILLA DE PEGO has

been working on their “development of eco-technical fibres and fabrics for the agricultural sector” project, whose main objective is the devel-opment of new extruded monofila-ment products and raffia for the ag-ricultural sector.

Likewise, research and develop-ment of new formulations for sus-tainable rubber from industrial waste is ongoing and AITEX is collaborat-ing with MCE MEZCLAS CAUCHO SAU in the “CIRCLE-RUBBER” pro-ject, revaluing industrial waste into sustainable materials.

Advancing in innovation and tech-nology is still a maxim for AITEX; it is in our DNA to encourage the de-

velopment of projects that represent progress for our sector. Among our collaborative projects is the one we are undertaking independently as a Notified Body for Marine Equipment and as a testing labo-ratory, with the International Maritime Organization (IMO), guaranteeing the suitability and compliance of various pieces of marine equipment with safety and fire behaviour requirements.

año

xxin

º 67

2.o C

uatr

imes

tre

2021

Director general de Lanzadera

JavierJiménez Marco

COSMÉTICAProyecto CDTI-CIEN FUN@CTIVE [Pág. 42]

AITEX consigue la adjudicación del proyecto WORTH II de la Comisión Europea [Pág. 30]

_contents06

20

08

22

28

24

38

54

62

59

58

40

12

56

Technology news

Recovery and reuse of textile dyes

Technology start-ups, a high-impact alternative for technology transfer

Extended Producer Responsibility reaches the textile sector

Here to stay: natural, ecological, vegan, organic and eco-friendly product lines

Balance of actions carried out by the Institutional Department

New standards for OEKO-TEX certifications®

Development of eco-technical yarns and fabrics for the agricultural sector

News

publicly funded projects

European projects

AITEX laboratory and notified body for the certification of marine equipment

Lives transformed through private sector partnership with UNICEF

Research and development of new sustainable rubber formulations using industrial wastes

16

30

Interview with Javier Jiménez Marco, CEO of Lanzadera

WORTH successfully completes four years of creativity and partnerships

3130

WORTH Partnership Pro-ject WORTH is an initiative of the European Commis-sion that aims to build connections and develop a relevant community of active creatives and inno-vators in the fashion and

lifestyle industries in Europe. WORTH has emerged as a flag-ship initiative in a Europe increasingly committed to develop-ing smarter, sustainable and inclusive growth through design solutions.

The project’s profile has become highly visible over the three previous calls, in which 462 applications were submitted, in-volving 978 applicants from 36 EU-COSME countries.

Renowned creative industry experts carried out more than 960 evaluations, providing not only the selection of the 152 funded projects but also constructive feedback to support and advise the applicants.

WORTH PARTNERSHIP PROJECT IN FUORISALONE

Where collaboration, innovation and sustainability come together to bring competitive values to design.

The 2021 edition of Fuorisalone Digital was the occasion cho-sen by WORTH Partnership Project to present “CREATIVITY”: seven videos dealing with the most relevant topics for the world of design today. The Circular Economy, digital production, Craftsmanship 4.0, the use of materials with high added value and social innovation.

Each video showcases the 64 winning projects of the third call, whose projects have achieved great results thanks to Europe’s largest creative incubator: WORTH.

From 12 to 19 April 2021, in Milan, the winning projects of the third call for proposals were presented, focusing on topics such as lightweight multidirectional 3D mesh seats for passengers in drone taxis, a garment capable of reacting to earthquakes, and a lamp that marks the passing of time using bioluminescence as a light source, among others.

The Fuorisalone TV platform is a place where you can meet and interact with the designers and hear in their own words the challenges they face in the exclusive video series “CREATIV-ITY”, an incredible journey to discover the design of the future.

Creativity is the key factor for Europe’s future

“Creative communities are among the most dynamic and in-novative sectors of the EU economy and are the drivers of

Fecha inicio: 2017

Fecha fin: 2021

Coordinador: AITEX

Participantes: KEPA - Business and Cultural Development Centre; IED - Istituto Europeo di Design; DAG COMMUNI-CATION; AA - Avvocati Associati franzosi Dal Negro Setti

www.worthproject.eu


Eventos WORTH

WORTH Partnership Project

aitex 2.nd quarter 2021_

the transition to a more sustainable and inclusive society and economy. They are increasingly seen as key actors at the fore-front of tackling global challenges, such as shifting to a more sustainable landscape or building a resilient society”, Silvia Draghi Policy Advisor at the European Commission.

Creativity, the theme of WORTH PARTNERSHIP PRO-JECT for Fuorisalone 2021

Creativity involves six themes that represent the challenges to be taken up by the European Union to improve not only Eu-rope’s economy, but also the social inclusion of all citizens in the European area.

The challenges are as follows:

• The Circular Economy, one in three participating pro-jects addresses one of the challenges related to the circular economy and resource efficiency. WORTH be-lieves in a fashion industry that values communities, the environment, creativity and profit in equal measure.

• Digital Manufacturing, when it is so difficult to keep up with technological potential, it is essential to under-stand why you should build something in the first place. Today’s challenges lie in interpreting consumer patterns and how they are constantly changing. To change the future, design must alter the status-quo of production and design through digitisation and virtualisation, sus-tainability and circularity.

• High Added-value Solutions, the innovative trends are framed in multiple dimensions through the exhibition of the projects carried out in WORTH. In this category, WORTH’s goal is to present the ways in which creatives and produc-ers implement innovative technologies to solve challeng-

es in very practical and realistic ways through research, inspiration, ideation, prototyping, demonstration, pilot testing and standardisation and certification.

• High Performance Materials, through the WORTH projects in this category, visitors will learn how materials and design converge around a key interface between users and their environment through intelligent functions such as detection, actuation, communication, energy generation and storage.

• The Reinvention of the Crafts, one in every four pro-jects selected in WORTH addresses challenges related to the reinvention of craftsmanship and how this af-fects the modern world and its need to survive. There is a wealth of skilled craftsmen and women across Eu-rope, who carry their culture and talents from generation to generation and who can benefit from the values of WORTH.

• Social innovation, design can contribute to social change by addressing the social challenges we face as a society every day. WORTH strongly believes that de-sign can focus not only on improving the look and func-tionality of products, but also on finding great solutions from looking deeply into the knowledge of consumers and specific groups to address special needs.

© Haizea Nájera Muñoz.

© Freyzein.

© Loreto Binvignat.© Studio Hilo.

The WORTH Partnership Project is fund-ed by the European Union’s COSME programme for the Competitiveness of Enterprises and Small and Medium-sized Enterprises.

Given the success of the first WORTH programme, the European Commission has decided to continue it to support 200 more collaborations between designers and creatives, start-ups and SMEs in the textile, fashion, footwear, leather, fashion, jewellery, furniture and accessories sectors with a special focus on digitisation and sustainability. Over the next four years and through three new calls, 200 consortia will benefit from financial support, personalised mentoring, training, networking, professional links and presence at international exhibitions and industry events.

1716

aitex 2.nd quarter 2021__interview

You have been CEO of Lanzadera since November 2012. What is your assessment of this period?

Lanzadera accelerator has evolved rapidly in just a few years, and with it, the start-up sector in general. When we started this magnificent project, we had the same intention as today of helping entrepreneurs, but at the time, we lacked experience.

Time has given us the experience necessary and we are now en-joying constant growth and innovation. We have also evolved as a company and our internal organisation has adapted to men-tor and host more entrepreneurs, while extending our scope of action to include large corporations with which we have signed partnership agreements that are hugely valuable for start-ups.

What is Lanzadera’s mission and what do you think are the elements that have made it one of the leading accel-erators in Spain?

Lanzadera’s mission is to support entrepreneurial leaders to create the right environment to help entrepreneurs create effi-cient companies and contribute value to society by implement-ing solid business models. At Lanzadera we are constantly re-inventing ourselves and trying out new formulas with the aim of fulfilling our mission sustainably.

It is true that Lanzadera is in a unique and essential situation, as part of the Marina de Empresas, an entrepreneurial hub sponsored by the businessman Juan Roig.

Javier Jiménez Marco holds a degree in Economics from the University of Valencia and has been part of the management team at Mercadona since 1993. Throughout his time at Mercadona he has held several positions of responsibility, including head of purchasing and head of the financial division. In 2012, he took over the management of Lanzadera, the Marina de Empresas accelerator set up and supported by Juan Roig, which provides help to entrepreneurs to cre-ate profitable companies. Javier is also vice-secretary of the LAB Mediterráneo Foundation, a member of the FORINVEST steering committee, he is part of the board of the Rei Jaume I Entre-preneur Awards and is a member of the board of directors of the Valencian eSports Association (Asociación Valenciana de los eSports AVEPE).

Javier Jiménez Marco

CEO of Lanzadera

The management model, which he developed during his time as head of Mercadona, is one of the great lessons that the Lan-zadera entrepreneurs have access to, and Juan Roig himself gives training sessions directly to entrepreneurs.

Which sectors do the companies promoted by Lanzadera belong to, and could you highlight a few for us?

Lanzadera has fostered more than 600 start-ups from all sec-tors. There are now more than 200 companies in the building and you can find everything from video game developers, to app developers working on remote patient care, to entrepre-neurs making shoes, clothes and make-up. There is everything, at all stages of maturity. One of the advantages of Lanzadera is precisely this ability to bring together such different profiles, creating highly productive synergies between them.

Textile companies are one of the key industrial sectors in Spain and are often considered a global benchmark. What presence does this sector have in the start-ups hosted by Lanzadera?

We have experience with textile companies, and have worked with many, and it is true that it is a leading sector in our country. One of the most outstanding examples, thanks to its innova-tive nature, is Sepiia. The CEO of this smart garment company, Federico Sainz de Robles, spent 5 years in the textile labo-ratories of AITEX working as a researcher, before seeing that there was another way of making garments, through technol-ogy, new materials and respect for the environment. This led to him founding Sepiia 5 years ago: it is promoted by Lanzadera and currently receives the support of companies like Facebook thanks to the agreements that we signed with these huge glob-al companies.

What are the most common barriers to entrepreneurship, and could you tell us a little about the work Lanzadera is doing in this respect, such as the “open innovation” programme?

Entrepreneurship is not easy, and the early stages are often the most critical. Approximately one in three start-ups fail in the early stages.

Entrepreneurial projects in the initial phase require, above all, special attention to identify problems and opportunities and to accurately assess their business as a whole, before they launch. They must have clear parameters for the start-up of the project with guarantees of success and profitability.

5756

aitex 2.nd quarter 2021__success cases


MCE Mezclas Caucho S.A.U., in collaboration with AITEX, has developed the project “CIRCLE-RUBBER - Research and development of new sustainable rubber formulations through the use of industrial waste”, in which industrial waste is revalued to create sustainable materials.

AITEX Sustainability and Materials Technology Research Group

Introduction

Rubber formulations are complex blends with a large number of components, which vary depending on the final applica-tion of the material. More specifically, tyres and shoe soles are composed of mostly natural rubber, SBR rubber, polybutadiene rubber, NBR, etc. In order to achieve the desired performance, this rubber is blended with reinforcing fillers, processing aids such as activators, antioxidants, anti-ozonants, waxes to fa-cilitate the spreading of the rubber, plasticisers, vulcanising agents, accelerators, pigments, etc.

The rubber market demands sustainable materials for the production of more environmentally friendly products. This is why MCE Mezclas Caucho seeks to meet this need through research into new formulations with a lower environmental im-pact.

Objectives

The main objective of CIRCLE-RUBBER is to develop new sustainable rubber formulations to be used both in the manu-facture of shoe soles and re-treading low-performance agri-cultural tyres. The development of these sustainable materials has focused on the incorporation of industrial waste into the formulations.

On an environmental level, this project aims to contribute to the circular economy by using waste from the footwear and tyre in-dustries as part of the formulation of sustainable raw materials that can be re-used in these two sectors.

In this way, added value is given to sorted waste whose re-cyclability by any other means is not easy and in countless cases ends up in landfill or for energy recovery. By revaluing this waste and incorporating it into the formulation of new sus-

tainable raw materials, the aim is to contribute to maintaining the environment and minimising the volume of waste that is created every day in the world and not properly disposed of.

In addition, products made with the new rubber formulations are more environmentally friendly as they contribute to reduc-ing the amount of virgin raw materials used.

Development

In order to achieve the project objectives, a series of R&D works were planned in different activities according to the project work plan. The research process started with the laboratory-scale formulation of new rubber blends including the selected wastes in different proportions. The formulations were characterised to understand their mechanical proper-ties. By comparing the properties obtained with established requirements, the blends were optimised in a re-engineering process until perfect characteristics were achieved. In addi-tion, characterisation included the analysis of the correct dis-persion and homogenisation of the components of the new blends by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The devel-opment process ended with the industrial scalability study, to ensure the feasibility of manufacturing on the company’s pro-duction equipment, as well as the repeatability of the proper-ties of the new materials.

On the one hand, for the development of formulations for foot-wear, spinning waste and EVA foam in powder form were used.

Output in a reference company engaged in spinning process-es is approximately 600 tonnes per year. A company whose business consists partly of the machining of EVA sheets has an output of 267 tonnes of EVA foam powder per year, which is currently only used for energy recovery. This is just the waste from textile and footwear companies in the province of Alicante, so the supply of materials is fully assured.

On the other hand, the development of formulations for agri-cultural tyres started with the use of waste from scrap tyres for re-treading, as well as textile waste from the shredding of end-of-life tyres. Subsequently, the development team opted to use rubber waste from other stages of tyre shredding, the size of which was more favourable for obtaining mixtures suitable for use in tyre production.

It should be noted that throughout the development process, the suitability of these new sustainable rubber blends has been validated through the development of prototypes, both for ag-ricultural tyres and shoe soles.

Results and conclusions

The results of the R&D carried out during the CIRCLE-RUBBER project include the following:

• Obtaining two technically, economically and environ-mentally validated sustainable rubber formulations suitable for the production of soles for industrially pro-duced footwear, both incorporating 4% of material from industrial waste from the textile/footwear sector. The first of these formulations contains 4% spinning dust residue. The second contains 4% EVA foam powder residue.

• Two technically, economically and environmentally vali-dated sustainable rubber formulations suitable for agri-cultural tyre production at industrial scale, incorporating in both cases 10% of material from industrial waste ob-tained in the recycling process of end-of-life tyres.

In all four cases, optimal solutions have been achieved from the point of view of the circular economy, contributing to the maximum use of resources. In this case, through the recov-ery of materials considered waste, generated within the value chain itself. This has a positive impact on the customers of MCE Mezclas Caucho, who value our efforts to reduce the en-vironmental footprint of our products.

Figures 1 and 2: prototype agricultural tyre made with one of the deve-loped formulations and prototypes of shoe soles made with different developed formulations.

The market demands sustainable materials for use in the manufacture of shoe soles and tyres.

This project is supported by the Centre for the Develop-ment of Industrial Technology (CDTI) through the call for proposals of the Business R&D Plan.

Grant number: IDI-20190565

_casos de éxito

procede de los refuerzos texBles del interior de la carcasa del neumáBco, el cual no es posible introducir a la cadena de valor texBl, ya que queda contaminado con una parte de caucho que no es posible separar. La composición de los refuerzos texBles de los diferentes Bpos de neumáBcos puede variar, pero generalmente se componen de poliamida, rayón y poliéster. En las instalaciones de una empresa de referencia que Bene entre sus funciones el triturado de neumáBcos fuera de uso se pueden generar unas 2.000 toneladas de este residuo al año. No obstante, tras varias iteraciones en el desarrollo de las nuevas formulaciones, ante la imposibilidad de incorporar a las nuevas mezclas sostenibles unas parXculas de tamaño tan elevado, el equipo de desarrollo optó por uBlizar residuos de caucho procedentes de otras etapas del triturado de neumáBcos, cuyo tamaño era más favorable para la obtención de mezclas aptas para su uso en la fabricación de neumáBcos.

Cabe destacar que, durante todo el proceso de desarrollo se ha validado la apBtud de la aplicabilidad de estas nuevas mezclas de caucho sostenibles mediante la elaboración de protoBpos, tanto de neumáBcos agrícolas como de suelas para calzado.

Resultados y conclusiones

Como resultados del proceso de I+D llevado a cabo durante la ejecución del proyecto CIRCLE-RUBBER cabe destacar:

• Obtención de dos formulaciones de caucho sostenibles aptas para producción desuelas para calzado a escala industrial, validadas desde el punto de vista técnico,económico y medioambiental, que incorporan en ambos casos un 4% de materialprocedente de residuos industriales del sector texBl/calzado. La primera de estasformulaciones conBene un 4% de residuo de polvo de hilatura. La segunda conBene un4% de residuo de polvo de espuma de EVA.

• Obtención de dos formulaciones de caucho sostenibles aptas para producción deneumáBco agrícola a escala industrial, validadas desde el punto de vista técnico,económico y medioambiental, que incorporan en ambos casos un 10% de materialprocedente de residuos industriales obtenidos en el proceso de reciclado deneumáBcos fuera de uso. En ambos casos la granulometría final del residuo empleado

Figura 2. ProtoBpos de suelas para calzado elaborados con diferentes formulaciones

desarrolladas.Figura 1. ProtoBpo de neumáBco agrícola fabricado con una de las formulaciones

desarrolladas.

_casos de éxito









desarrolladas.

MCE, RUBBER MIXTURES, S.A.U. (Aspe)

The rubber manufacturing industry has been calling for environmen-tally friendly solutions for years. MCE, MEZCLAS CAUCHO, S.A.U. has always been committed to sustainability, and the develop-ment of the CIRCLE RUBBER pro-ject allows us to strengthen our

strategic position by offering the market materials with a low environmental impact.

42

50

52

High added-value solutions based on functionalisation and active product development for the cosmetics and textile sector

Development of functionalised polyamide fibres from recycled fishing nets

R&D of compressive garments for the improvement of health in lower limb pathologies

48Research into post-consumer PET spinning processes for the manufacture of 100% recyclable carpets

46Modelling thermal and electrical transport mechanisms in compounds and fibres

4746

AITEX Technical Fibres and Textile Materials Research group

Modelling thermal and electrical transport mechanisms in compounds and fibres

Graphene - a two-dimensional allotrope of carbon - has been the subject of much research in the field of polymeric com-posites, as highlighted in the majority of articles studying com-pounds or fibres made of carbon nanocomposites.

Its peculiar and extraordinary properties have generated ex-citement and interest in equal measure since 2010, when it was the main reason for the researchers who succeeded in isolating winning the Nobel Prize for Physics. A torrent of new applications flooded in, thanks to the immense capacity of this material to conduct electricity, making it ideal for supercapaci-tors, batteries, flexible touch screens and of course, conduc-tive textile fibres.

However, so far it has not been possible to develop a qualita-tive or quantitative mathematical model of the interaction be-tween the polymer matrix and the graphene particles, mean-ing that advances in the field have come from an empirical rather than a theoretical perspective. This lack of knowledge about how the structure of these materials is formed, and the inability to predict the properties of the products obtained from them hinders the growth and development of these ap-plications.

Background

The potential of graphene as a basis for a new generation of products, such as flexible electronic components and ICT ap-plications has been sufficiently demonstrated by a wide range of prototypes. However, in all these applications, the graphene used is a single layer produced via CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition), which is defect-free and perfectly designed for the purpose, as opposed to multilayer, defective graphene, which would generally be used in graphene-composite fibres, with various applications in the car industry or in smart textiles. The reason? A cost difference of up to 100 times less which, taking into account the quantities that would be necessary to achieve acceptable results, would make any fibre using graphene ob-tained through CVD unaffordable.

From a practical point of view, and in order to be able to commit to the stable industrial-scale production of these products, it is vital to understand the behaviour of this “defective graphene” and its interaction within a polymer matrix typically used in the textile sector. This knowledge is, to date, virtually non-existent. The technology is still in its infancy, making it difficult to estab-lish knowledge objectives. Progress is being made on what ex-ists to date, while new heights are being reached in the produc-tion of the material, making it more reliable, better defined and

more cost effective, totally modifying the roadmaps of applied research in this field.

Objectives

The main objective of the GRASAGE project is to build a model describing the orientation and interactions of defective gra-phene with the polymer structure and to predict the electrical and thermal conductivity properties of the resulting fibre based on processing parameters and starting materials (polymer, type of graphene, amount of graphene, etc.). This will help overcome the lack of knowledge that is currently hindering the development and deployment of graphene-loaded fibres as a real and applicable technology.

The following issues will be investigated in depth:

1. How do physical and/or chemical interactions between graphene nano-layers and the polymer matrix influence interlayer properties at the nano- and micro-scale?

2. What correlations can be identified between the intrin-sic properties of the graphene used and the results ob-

served on a macroscopic scale of both the compound and the fibres?

3. How do the various processes present affect the prop-erties of both compound and fibres?

Development

Firstly, a suitable experimental matrix is outlined based on what was expected to be obtained, two types of graphene particles (nanoplatelets) were selected for their physical and chemical characteristics, which confer the optimum properties on the resulting yarn.

The result was different compounds with differing graphene loads, varying both the mass concentration (from 5% to 1%) of graphene in the polymer and the polymer matrix used (PP - Polypropylene or PA6 - Polyamide 6). These are charac-terised using a “filter test”, which determines their viability and behaviour as a raw material in the monofilament and multifilament spinning processes, as well as providing infor-mation about the dispersion of the carbonaceous particles in the polymer.

After these tests, various monofilaments are spun with differ-ent stretching ratios, an essential parameter in the process, to study the effect it has on the final thermal and electrical con-ductivity properties of the filament. The final step is to measure the electrical conductivity of the yarn to test whether the correct dispersion of the graphene has been obtained to improve the conductive properties of the yarn.

In parallel to this work, computational simulations are run, taking as starting data those obtained from the characteri-sation of these compounds (dispersion and density) and of the monofilament samples (electrical and thermal con-ductivity), analysing how the nano-loads added affect the properties of the initial polymer. The results of these simu-lations allow predictions of the characteristics of the final product from the initial values such as the properties of the graphene, the polymer used, the parameters of the spin-ning process, etc.

Later, having identified particle dispersion as the critical point for obtaining a significant improvement in the conduc-tive properties, new compounds were produced via another method of adding the graphene by using organic solvents in which the nanoparticles are dispersed. It is hoped that a much more homogeneous distribution of the nanoplatelets will result, giving superior results to those obtained for previ-ous generation yarns.

As a last line of research, together with this last batch of com-pounds, further samples are made where the polymeric ma-trix is changed from single (PP or PA6) to double (a mixture of 80% PP and 20% PA6). The aim of this modification is to create “preferential paths” of graphene nanoparticles within the fibres,

creating a network that substantially enhances the conductive properties.

The same tests carried out on the compounds and fibres pro-duced in the first part of the project are carried out to charac-terise those produced in the second part, enabling a global comparison to be made taking into account a wide range of parameters.

Results

With regard to the first samples, the values observed for all the samples taken are, at least, correct. The use of the quali-fier “satisfactory” is to be avoided, since although the values of electrical and thermal conductivities have clearly increased, they have not reached levels to be considered capable of de-veloping robust applications. The effect of spinning process parameters such as the drafting ratio and the effect of the use of graphene of different characteristics have been identified and discerned.

The simulations have greatly helped our understanding of the different phenomena observed, and to act accordingly to re-move various obstacles to the development of composite ma-terials through the addition of graphene nano-loads.

Conclusions

Although the data are not very encouraging and in fact sug-gest that we look in a different direction, we have been able to identify different determining points for the progress of the technology and its consequent success, which indicates that other aspects need to be studied before the process can be fully consolidated and reach an optimum level of de-velopment.

Certain lines, in particular PP/PA6 fibres, require much further development, and there are high hopes that they will enable a leap in quality and the first basis for establishing a viable con-ductive fibre reality alongside graphene.

_inves'gación

Figura 1. SEM (imagen por microscopio electrónico) de las par>culas de grafeno.

• Obje'vos

El principal obje'vo del proyecto GRASAGE es construir un modelo capaz de describir la orientación y las interacciones del grafeno defec'vo con la estructura del polímero y predecir las propiedades de conduc'vidad eléctrica y térmica de la fibra creada en base a parámetros de proceso y materiales de par'da (polímero, 'po de grafeno, can'dad de éste, etc.), de forma que se pueda superar esa falta de conocimiento que dificulta el desarrollo y el asentamiento de las fibras con cargas de grafeno como una tecnología real y aplicable.

Se inves'gará en profundidad las siguientes cues'ones:

1. ¿De qué forma las interacciones ^sicas y/o químicas entre las nanocapas de grafeno yla matriz polimérica influyen en las propiedades intercapa a escala nano y micro?

2. ¿Qué correlaciones se pueden iden'ficar entre las propiedades intrínsecas del grafeno usado y los resultados observados a escala macroscópica, tanto del compound como de las fibras?

3. ¿Como afecta los diversos procesos presentes en las propiedades tanto del compound como de las fibras?

• Desarrollo

Primeramente, se perfila una matriz de experimentos adecuada en base a lo que se esperaba obtener, se seleccionaron dos 'pos de par>culas de grafeno (nanoplatelets) en función de sus caracterís'cas ^sicas y químicas, de modo que aporten las mejores propiedades posibles al hilo finalmente producido.

De esta forma, se ob'enen diferentes compounds con nanocargas de grafeno variando tanto la concentración másica (de 5% a 1%) de éste en el polímero como la matriz polimérica usada (PP - Polipropileno o PA6 – Poliamida 6). Éstos son caracterizados a través de un ensayo

Figure 1: SEM (electron microscope image) of graphene particles.

This project is supported by the Programa Estatal de Investiga-ción, Desarrollo e Innovación Orientada a los Retos de la Socie-dad, within the framework of the Plan Estatal de Investigación Científica y Técnica y de Innovación 2013-2016 (State Plan for Scientific and Technical Research and Innovation 2013-2016).

Grant number: PCI2018-093176

_research aitex 2.nd quarter 2021_

www.tacome.com [email protected]

6

_technology news

Integration of interstitial fluid extraction and glucose detection in one device for wearable non-invasive blood glucose sensorsIn this paper, we demonstrate a simple two-electrode non-invasive blood glucose sensor, which is fabricated by using graphene/carbon nanotubes/glucose oxidase composite textile and graphene/carbon nanotube/silver/silver chloride composite textile as the working electrode and counter elec-trode, respectively. The blood glucose concentration calculated according to the response currents of the two-electrode sensors is highly consistent with that measured by commercial glucose meter. Furthermore, the used textile-like electrodes provide the non-invasive blood glucose sensors with excellent flexible and wearable properties, which make them promising to be integrated with other electronic units for monitor and management of human health.

Authors: Yao, Yao; Chen, Jingyao; Guo, Yuhan; Lv, Tian; Chen, Zilin; Li, Ning; Cao, Shaokui; Chen, Bingdi; Chen, TaoReferences: Biosensors & Bioelectronics, Volume 179, May 2021

Oxidized Hemp Fibers with Simultaneously Increased Capillarity and Reduced Moisture Sorption as Suitable Textile Material for Advanced Application in SportswearIn this paper, the oxidation of hemp fibers with potassium permanganate was applied to reduce the amount of noncellulosic substances and moisture sorption; to introduce functional groups and increase capillarity; make fibers finer, softer and suitable for application in sport wears. The changes in sorption properties were characterized by capillary rise measurement and the ability of water retention and moisture sorption, while changes in mechanical properties were estimated by de-termination of tenacity and elongation of modified hemp fibers in comparison to the appropriate characteristic of unmodified fibers. ATR-FTIR, SEM techniques, and zeta potential measurement were used for the characterization of fiber structure, morphological and electrokinetic properties. Obtained oxidized hemp fibers with attained features present a very suitable material for sportswear

production.

Authors: Milanovic, JZ; Milosevic, M; Korica, M ; Jankovic-Castvan, I; Kostic, MMReferences: Fibers and Polymers, March 2021

Fabrication and performance evaluation of waste cotton and polyester fiber-reinforced green composites for building and construction applicationsThe carded web of cotton and polyester fibers and epoxy resin were used to develop the com-posites using the compression molding technique. The polyester/epoxy composites show aver-age tensile and impact strength higher than cotton/epoxy composites. However, cotton/epoxy composites show average flexural strength higher than polyester/epoxy composites. The bearing strength in a pinned joint for polyester/epoxy composites is higher than cotton/epoxy compos-ites. The equilibrium water content of polyester/epoxy composites was found much less than the corresponding cotton/epoxy composite. The cotton/epoxy and polyester/epoxy composites are thermally stable enough.

Authors: Kamble, Z; Behera, BKReferences: Polymer Composites, March 2021

An innovative evaluation method based on polymer mass detection to evaluate the contribution of microfibers from laundry process to municipal wastewaterClothes washing releases numerous microfibers, including microplastic fibers (MPFs). Although MPFs in laundry wastewater are an important source of microplastics (MPs) in wastewater treat-ment plants (WWTPs), credible quantitative assessments of their contributions remain limited. Polyester fiber is the most important textile fiber. Its component, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) polymer, can be quantified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The release of MPFs from polyester clothes through washing was quantified via simulation experi-ments, and the MPFs in two WWTPs were measured by microscopic counting and LC-MS/MS.

Authors: Tian, YJ; Chen, Z; Zhang, JY; Wang, ZZF; Zhu, YJ; Wang, P; Zhang, T; Pu, J ; Sun, HW; Wang, L

References: Journal of Hazardous Materials, Volume 407, April 2021

Medical textiles for hygiene and cosmetics

This section summarises some of the innovations and advances made recently with applications in the textile industry. It was compiled from a range of scientific and technical sources that are indispensable to researchers seeking innovative new business opportunities.

Home textiles

Textiles for sportswear

Textiles for construction

7


Fabrication and characterization of multi stimuli-responsive fibers via wet-spinning processLuminescent fibers have attracted much attention due to their application in smart textiles for anti-counterfeiting, camouflage, fashion designs and so on. However, fibers with single function of lumi-nescent is fail to meet the growing demand of smart textiles. Herein, we develop a multifunctional fiber with quick-responsive reversible photochromic and light-emitting with long afterglow. The re-sults make clear that resulting fibers exhibit quick-responsive reversible photochromic properties and can be excited by a wide range of ray from 300 to 450 nm, displaying a wide band with a maxi-mum peak at 525 nm. The photochromic pigments and SrAl2O4:Eu2+, Dy3+ phosphors distrib-uted in fibers evenly and the fibers are stable below 258.76 degrees C. Our work to photochromic luminescent fibers show huge potential in anti-counterfeiting, aesthetics fashion designs and so on for smart textiles.

Authors: Shen, XY; Hu, Q; Ge, MQ References: Spectrochimica Acta Part a-Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy, Volume 250, April 2021

Ballistic Impact Resistance of Bulletproof Vest Inserts Containing Printed Titanium StructuresFinite element modeling of ballistic impact of inserts containing titanium structures were presented in the article. The inserts containing an additional layer made using additive manufacturing tech-nology were analyzed. Four variants of printed titanium structures were placed between layers of Twaron CT 750 aramid fabric to create ballistic inserts. In order to assess the ballistic resistance of the inserts, numerical simulations of ballistic impact phenomenon were carried out using LS-Dyna software. The main aim of the work was to check the effectiveness of such solutions in soft ballistic protection applications and to select the most effective variant of 3D printed structure. Results of the numerical analysis showed a high potential for 3D printed structures made of titanium alloys to be used for bulletproof vest inserts. In all analyzed cases the projectile was stopped by the armor.

Autores: Zochowski, P; Bajkowski, M; Grygoruk, R; Magier, M; Burian, W; Pyka, D; Bocian, M; Jamroziak, K Referencias: Metals, Volume 11, February 2021

Sustainable Lightweight Insulation Materials from Textile-Based Waste for the Automobile IndustryThis study investigated the feasibility of using waste and virgin wool fibres as cost-effective and sustainable alternatives for automotive sound and heat insulation using a chemical-free approach. Several properties of the currently available commercial automotive insulators were investigated in order to facilitate the designing of green wool-based needle-punched nonwoven materials. The effect of fibre diameter, nonwoven surface, layer structure, thickness, and area density on sound absorption and thermal resistance was investigated. The results suggested that the wool nonwoven materials, fabricated using waste and virgin wool fibres, possessed extremely efficient acoustic and thermal insulating properties comparable with the currently used commercial synthetic insulat-ing materials. Besides, the wool nonwoven materials showed identical antibacterial and antifungal properties with a greater biodegradation rate (50%) than that of the commercial synthetic insulating

materials. Hence, this study showed that natural wool fibres have the potential to be used as green, lightweight, and sustainable materials in the automobiles, while they qualify for Reuse-Recycle and Reuse-Recover purposes at the end-of-life of vehicles.

Authors: Cai, ZX; Al Faruque, MA; Kiziltas, A; Mielewski, D; Naebe, M References: Materials, Volume 14, March 2021

Formulation of UV curable nano-silver conductive ink for direct screen-printing on common fabric substrates for wearable electronic applicationsOne-step printing of electrically conductive inks on textiles is one of the simplest and most prospec-tive methods to manufacture functional wearable electronics. However, the high surface roughness and porous structure as well as poor temperature endurance of most textiles have become the major challenges for the realization of printed electronic textiles (E-textiles). To solve these issues, the UV curable conductive ink with fast curing and low temperature characteristics was formulated to fabricate the flexible fabric-based conductive patterns using screen printing method. The specific focus was spent on investigating the effect of ink composition on curing speed, film forming ability, morphological characteristics and electrical properties of conductive patterns directly printed on fabric substrates.

Authors: Hong, H; Jiang, LH; Tu, HT; Hu, JY; Yan, XReferences: Smart Materials and Structures, Volume 30, April 2021

Textiles for automotive and transport sectors

Smart functional textiles

Hilatura y fibras

tex

Tex$les para automoción y transporte

Spinning and fibres

Textiles for protection and workwear

8

_analysis

The founding purpose of the Technology Institutes is to sup-port scientific research, technological progress, the creation of knowledge and the dissemination of the results in such a way that they contribute to the improvement of business competi-tiveness and the progress and general benefit of society.

To this end, the Institutes undertake activities to create and de-velop technological knowledge, which they then transfer to the private sector mainly through applied research projects and technological services.

In addition, they provide alternative channels for knowledge transfer, such as the commercialisation of intellectual prop-erty (IP) and the creation of new technology-based companies (NTBCs), either supported or partnered by the Institutes them-selves.

The commercialisation of IP through the transfer to third parties of the rights to research results, be it transfer of ownership of technology, exploitation licences, etc., generally forms part of the natural function of the Institutes.

On the other hand, knowledge transfer via the creation of NTBCs requires a range of new capacities that the Institutes must incorporate into their management structures, as NTBCs are entrepreneurial projects in the initial stages of develop-ment, with associated market, set up and management risks.

Thus, although the creation of companies is recognised as an-other alternative for the transfer of the knowledge coming out of the Institutes, this path has historically been less well used than the more conventional routes and has often been questioned for the reasons mentioned above.

Technology start-ups, a high-impact alternative for technology transfer

Unai Zorriqueta, Partner at Hasten Ventures

Embroidery technology for the development of smart textiles embeded in composite materials developed by AITEX.


9

However, presenting technology as a business rather than an R&D project is becoming increasingly popular among inves-tors, corporations and the private sector in general and is in line with the open innovation processes that are becoming more widespread in our business fabric1.

Similarly, the impact of a start-up business project is far greater than conventional transfer channels, both from a quantitative (economic return, net employment) and qualitative point of view (creation of new business fabric, transfer of highly quali-fied personnel, etc.).

The legal framework for setting up and participating in an NTBC

The Technology Institutes have been involved in the creation and launch of new technology-based companies since their creation, a part of their remit that is expressly included in the legislation dealing with the Science, Technology, and Innova-tion system.

One example is Law 14/2011, regulating the Science, Tech-nology and Innovation system, which states in Title III on the boost of Scientific and Technical Research, innovation, knowl-edge transfer, dissemination and scientific, technological and innovative culture, establishes in Article 33, that centres must establish measures for; “the promotion of research, develop-ment and innovation, such as the establishment of mecha-nisms for public-private collaboration in stable research pro-jects”, and the support of new technology and science-based companies”2.

Other measures are also provided for the valorisation of knowl-edge and its transfer, [...] “through participation in commercial companies under the terms set out in Law 2/2011, with the aim of promoting business diversification and the transformation of the results of scientific and technical research into sustainable economic and social development “2.

Along the same lines, Royal Decree 2093/2008, which regulates Technology Centres and Technological Innovation Support Cen-tres at state level, establishes in Article 3, Point 2, a series of activities to achieve these aims, among which it specifically indi-cates in section h) “to promote the creation of technology-based enterprises and their consolidation in the market “3.

Types of NTBCs

Traditionally, companies set up by Technology Institutes have involved the participation of an industrial partner, where the risks associated with the new business project are shared by both parties.

In these cases, the Institute identifies an industrial partner with whom a co-development agreement for the opportunity or technology is established under a separate business entity

(Joint Venture). Both partners can contribute in various ways to the new company (funding, technological development, com-mercialisation, etc.), regulating the relationship through invest-ment and partners’ agreements.

The presence of the industrial partner minimises market and operational risks, while the presence of the institutional partner mitigates technological risks. The risks associated with com-pany management are regulated in the investment and share-holders’ agreements.

In general, in this type of project, the return for the Institute usually comes through the licensing of the technology trans-ferred to the new company, as well as in the contracting of R&D projects by NTCB, and the Technology Institute will take an increasingly back seat role as time passes.

Another approach that has been used by the Institutes is the spin-off of an economic activity to exploit technological ser-vices or laboratory and analytical services (Spin-Out). A new commercial vehicle makes it possible to operate a pre-existing service, especially one that is in high demand and/or repetitive, more efficiently and flexibly.

In these cases, it is common for the Institute to maintain a significant controlling interest in the company, as a strategic activity, although there is a tendency to divest the interest once the new company is no longer of strategic value or has reached a certain size that carries risks associated with its operation, management and financial results on the Institute’s balance sheet.

The development of the entrepreneurial ecosystem, the glo-balisation and generalisation of access to and development of technology, and the new relationship and innovation formats have, in recent years, boosted the emergence and proliferation of business projects led by teams of technologists and busi-ness promoters supported by specialised external professional investors, especially in environments related to high technol-ogy or deeptech.

It is precisely this type of project, usually characterised by the disruptive nature of the technology, which inhibits its transfer through traditional channels or which it has not been possible to valorise in other ways, where the Institutes find it most dif-ficult to put a structure in place and manage the associated risks. This is largely due to the following factors:

• Long development times related to the maturity of the technology to bring it closer to the market.

• Resistance of existing industry and value chains to in-novative or disruptive technological solutions.

• High financing requirements to mature and develop the technology and achieve market penetration.

• Intangibility and difficulty in transferring key elements such as scientific personnel, knowledge, intellectual property, etc.

10

_analysis

• Need for high-performance teams that combine techno-logical know-how and market-oriented skills, operating in a highly uncertain atmosphere.

In addition, these projects operate in an environment charac-terised by dependence on intangible assets, high uncertainty and negative cash flows.4 They are also projects that consume financial resources which, given their novelty and state of de-velopment, are not usually covered by traditional channels and most professional investors are reluctant to invest because of the high risk4 and low profitability.

However, from the point of view of impact, these projects are dynamic creators of new business fabric with a high profitability potential:

• They are growing at over 20% per annum

• They create three times more jobs than the average, both during the start-up phase and in their consolida-tion. They also create highly skilled jobs.

• They have a survival rate of over 80% after the first few years of activity

• They create new manufacturing infrastructure

• From the outset, they have their sights set on the inter-national market

• They are innovation-led, allocating a significant share of resources to technology development and R&D, either in-house or outsourced

• They attract investment and finance.

While each institute has a different model covering such pro-jects, an analysis of best practices at European level points to the right set-up at the creation and launch stage as a critical factor for the success of these initiatives.

Key in this configuration are aspects related to the technol-ogy and its potential, and others such as the ownership and management structure, the transfer and business models, the team, and the alignment of all parties involved in the launch and development of the new company.

Among the benchmark models, the one operated by Finland’s VTT VENTURES5 stands out for its results. They have an invest-ment vehicle that is responsible for selection, launching and investment in the initial stages.

The spin-offs generated by VTT VENTURES are notable for their low mortality rate (<15%), their high impact (17 employ-ees per day) and their growth potential, competing at interna-tional level in high-tech sectors such as IoT and electronics, Sensorics and Diagnostics, Imaging and Optics, New Materi-als and Advanced Manufacturing and Life Sciences.

While the primary focus of VTT VENTURES is technology trans-fer, the vehicle has a much higher economic return compared to similar European venture capital funds specialising in early stage development.

Another interesting model is the one developed by TNO in the Netherlands6, which has been operating an internal pro-gramme for the maturation and launch of new companies based on technology developed by the Centre since 2017. In its first four years of operation, it has launched twenty-five new high-tech-based companies, creating 138 new jobs and at-tracting more than €45 million in investment.

In both cases, the objective in the creation of NTBCs pri-oritises the transfer of technology to the private sector over profitability, although both models confirm that projects managed with financial profitability criteria have a higher success rate.

The Institute’s financial resources make it possible to co-fi-nance the initial stages of development for the launch of pro-jects, but not to accompany them in their subsequent devel-opment. Its presence in the capital makes sense to minimise technological risks and ensure technology transfer. Once these objectives have been met, the direct participation of the institute becomes less meaningful, so it is also key to envis-age and plan its exit.

This is fully compatible with maintaining a linkage and partici-pation in the evolution of technology. In general, projects pro-moted by technology institutes continue to be linked through a customer-technology supplier relationship.

For all these reasons, the participation of an Institute in the launching of business projects falls within a specific time frame to guarantee the transfer of technology and the impact on the private sector, and through professional management, profit-ability for the Institute.

References

1. Detailed study of technology transfer models in European Technology Centres. REDIT. Executive Summary.

2. Law 14/2011 regulating the Science, Technology and Innovation Sys-tem. Article 33

3. RD 2093/2008, which regulates Technology Centres and Technologi-cal Innovation Support Centres at state level. Article 3. Point 2.

4. Venture Capital Yearbook 2017. Public venture capital initiatives in the Valencia Region: the role of the Institut Valencia de Finances (IVF). 163.

5. Detailed study of technology transfer models in European Technology Centres. REDIT. 21-43

6. Detailed study of technology transfer models in European Technology Centres. REDIT. 44-60

11

aitex 2.o cuatrimestre 2021_

Far Infrared Technology

One Company | Two Brands

Qi-Tex reflects infrared rays back to the wearer’s body. This process increases oxygen levels, blood circulation, and creates extra energy for the body to use. This way the wearer is able to recharge whilst sleeping, retain body heat, improve balance, and enhance athletic performance.

+34 93 481 33 22 | [email protected] | TANATEXCHEMICALS.COM

12

The remit of UNICEF, the United Nation’s agency for children, is to ensure that all children, wherever they are, see their rights fulfilled and can develop fully, as set out in the Convention on the Rights of the Child, ratified by Spain in 1990. To achieve this, UNICEF works in 190 countries and territories to save, pro-tect and improve the lives of every child.

To lead this transformation of the reality for children, UNICEF is networking with several agencies, creating new opportuni-ties through rich collaboration. The involvement of the private sector is key to this global vision. AITEX, from its leadership in Corporate Social Responsibility and its commitment to the 2030 Agenda, is collaborating with UNICEF Spain in the initia-tives Schools for Africa and Schools for Asia in Bangladesh.

These initiatives boost the potential of millions of particularly vulnerable children, such as girls, disabled children, ethnic mi-norities and those living in poverty in remote areas. Schools for Africa and Schools for Asia grant access to quality education, fulfilling children’s rights and SDG 4 on Quality Education. In

addition, these programmes exemplify SDG 17, which encour-ages cross-sectoral partnerships to achieve our mutual goals of linking AITEX and UNICEF.

In the current global pandemic, education has been particular-ly threatened. At its peak, at the end of April 2020, school clo-sures disrupted the learning of nearly 90 per cent of students worldwide. This crisis exacerbates the vulnerability of children who receive no formal schooling.

Education not only provides children with knowledge and learning, but also keeps them safe from malnutrition, child mar-riage and child labour, abuse, violence, recruitment into armed groups, etc.

That is why, now more than ever, the continued strong commit-ment of the private sector, the commitment to quality partner-ships and the work UNICEF is doing with this support are key to fulfilling children’s rights.

_analysis

Lives transformed through private sector partnership with UNICEF

Marlene Perkins. Regional Coordinator of UNICEF Valencian Community Committee

AITEX is collaborating with UNICEF Spain in two initiatives that grant access to quality education for millions of vulnerable children in Africa and Asia.

13


The Schools for Africa initiative, one of the initiatives supported by AITEX, includes a list of the names of children whose sto-ries have are much more promising thanks to the support of UNICEF. Learning about their lives, their schools and commu-nities brings us closer to the transformative value of education in the lives of children everywhere.

The most beautiful school in the world

The village of Toumodi-Sakassou in Côte d’Ivoire is the first municipality in Africa with classrooms and latrines made of re-cycled plastic bricks.

Arsène Tindé is a teacher who used to live in another village, but when he was offered the opportunity to teach primary school in the new facilities in Toumodi-Sakassou, he quickly accepted and moved his family to the centre of the country. “I like working in this environment,” he says. “The classroom is very well lit and you don’t feel the heat. The conditions are ideal for teaching and for the children to learn.

Arsène’s daughter Anne, 8, is delighted with her new school. “My school is the most beautiful in the world,” she says proud-ly. “I’m impressed with the huge blackboard and how clean everything is. There is even electricity, and now we have toilets too. It’s much better than before, when we had to go out in the fields.

In Côte d’Ivoire, poor sanitation is responsible for 60 per cent of malaria, diarrhoea and pneumonia in children, and only 5 per cent of plastic is recycled. Thanks to this innovative project by UNICEF, partners and the Colombian social enterprise Con-ceptos Plásticos, every child in Toumodi-Sakassou is growing up in a healthy environment.

As Konaté Kalifa, who also teaches in Toumodi-Sakassou, ex-plains, “our pupils are less exposed to diseases such as ma-laria. Before the latrines were built they had to go out into the fields to relieve themselves, and often came back with insect bites and scratches”.

In the village, everyone considers the cleanliness of the school and its surroundings as their own responsibility. The women have organised themselves into small groups to clean the school every weekend. “This school gives a new image to our village, and we are all proud of it. Therefore, it must be kept in good condition at all times,” says Konan Affoué Françoise, a local mother.

Education has always been a priority for the people of Tou-modi-Sakassou. The former school, made of mud and wood, was built by the villagers themselves for their children, but also welcomed children from nearby villages.

Raymond Konan Yao, an energetic resident and president of the Toumodi-Sakassou local development association, is de-lighted with the new facilities. “I am very happy to see our chil-

dren learning in the best conditions. Now they can study with-out worrying about the weather. Although there is no electricity in our village, the school is powered by solar panels. A few years ago, when the whole village came together to build the old school, we wanted to give our children a better future. Now, with this new school, I am very hopeful. I can’t wait to see how our children will be the leaders of tomorrow’s country”.

In Côte d’Ivoire, education is compulsory from 6 to 16, but many children still do not attend school for a variety of reasons, including lack of facilities, overcrowded classrooms, distance from home, or the cost of books and supplies. With all of these needs in mind, UNICEF is working with the Ministry of Educa-tion to build more schools to support the development of chil-dren and their communities. Thirty thousand more classrooms are needed in Côte d’Ivoire for children to access education and reach their full potential.

Clean water to make school life easier for children

Jalo Primary School, with more than 2,100 pupils, is located in the Nkhotakota district of northern Malawi. During the summer, the school becomes unbearable because of the hot air blowing in from nearby Lake Malawi. In addition, despite its proximity to the lake, the school has had water supply problems since it opened in 1978.

Wezzi, 12, who is now in his final year at Jalo school, remem-bers what life was like before they had solar-powered water pumps. “We used to fetch water from the village well, a kilome-tre or so away,” he says, reflecting on the exhaustion. “There were bad days when the villagers would deny us water, or force us to stand in long queues, which made us miss class.”

Wezzi has spent the last three years in the village of Jalo. In his blue uniform, he explains that although his school is a benefi-ciary of the national school feeding programme, without easy access to water it was very difficult to maintain the programme,

14

_analysis

hygiene in the kitchen and dining room, the school as a whole and of course the toilets.

“We had firewood and willing hands, but we couldn’t eat porridge every day because we had no water to prepare it,” he recalls.

Mr. Mwale, Wezzi’s tutor, adds that the rainy season made things worse. Although water was freely available, the sources were not protected, often making the pupils sick. “Children would miss school because of diseases from unsafe water,” he explains, adding “in the summer, the community well would dry up and children would suffer because of the lack of water in the school.

All of this changed when UNICEF built a solar-powered water supply system. The system has two taps that supply the school with safe, chlorinated water, and two other taps that supply the teachers’ houses and the surrounding community.

“Now,” says Wezzi, “our classrooms are clean, we sweep them every morning and mop them twice a week, and we clean the toilets frequently thanks to the amount of water available. The kitchen area and utensils are also kept very clean - I love com-ing to school now!

Clean water makes life easier for children and the teachers’ lives are also much improved. Getting ready to teach in the morning used to involve long queues at the well. Now that wa-ter is available, teachers no longer have to compete with the rest of the community for access to water. “I’ve been here for seven years, and I was thinking of leaving,” says Mr. Nyondo, deputy headmaster of Jalo Primary School. “Now I like working

in this community. There is water for cooking and washing. I have even planted a vegetable garden at home, which is pro-viding extra income for my family.”

Today, the school’s surroundings are green and pleasant, full of grass and flowers. “We have also created a school garden to complement the feeding programme,” adds Mr. Nyondo. “The school diet is more diverse now, which has attracted new pu-pils and reduced absenteeism. In addition to providing water, solar energy has also meant we can light the classrooms for the first time ever. As a result, last year students used the light to study for their final primary school exams until late, and early in the morning, which undoubtedly contributed to twenty-two students being selected by top secondary schools. This year, even more pupils have started to use the classrooms for morn-ing and afternoon study.

The UNICEF project aims to increase Malawian children’s ac-cess to quality basic education by making schools more able to cope with climate change, and by increasing the resilience of teachers, students and communities, resulting in higher quality education.

These two stories were made possible thanks to the impetus of UNICEF and the commitment of AITEX to act responsibly and ethically, supporting this type of initiative for education, a fundamental pillar for chil-dren to enjoy the opportunity for a better future. This agreement is part of the Institute’s Corporate Social Responsibility policy.

15


16

_interview

You have been CEO of Lanzadera since November 2012. What is your assessment of this period?

Lanzadera accelerator has evolved rapidly in just a few years, and with it, the start-up sector in general. When we started this magnificent project, we had the same intention as today of helping entrepreneurs, but at the time, we lacked experience.

Time has given us the experience necessary and we are now en-joying constant growth and innovation. We have also evolved as a company and our internal organisation has adapted to men-tor and host more entrepreneurs, while extending our scope of action to include large corporations with which we have signed partnership agreements that are hugely valuable for start-ups.

What is Lanzadera’s mission and what do you think are the elements that have made it one of the leading accel-erators in Spain?

Lanzadera’s mission is to support entrepreneurial leaders to create the right environment to help entrepreneurs create effi-cient companies and contribute value to society by implement-ing solid business models. At Lanzadera we are constantly re-inventing ourselves and trying out new formulas with the aim of fulfilling our mission sustainably.

It is true that Lanzadera is in a unique and essential situation, as part of the Marina de Empresas, an entrepreneurial hub sponsored by the businessman Juan Roig.

Javier Jiménez Marco holds a degree in Economics from the University of Valencia and has been part of the management team at Mercadona since 1993. Throughout his time at Mercadona he has held several positions of responsibility, including head of purchasing and head of the financial division. In 2012, he took over the management of Lanzadera, the Marina de Empresas accelerator set up and supported by Juan Roig, which provides help to entrepreneurs to cre-ate profitable companies. Javier is also vice-secretary of the LAB Mediterráneo Foundation, a member of the FORINVEST steering committee, he is part of the board of the Rei Jaume I Entre-preneur Awards and is a member of the board of directors of the Valencian eSports Association (Asociación Valenciana de los eSports AVEPE).

Javier Jiménez Marco

CEO of Lanzadera

17


The management model, which he developed during his time as head of Mercadona, is one of the great lessons that the Lan-zadera entrepreneurs have access to, and Juan Roig himself gives training sessions directly to entrepreneurs.

Which sectors do the companies promoted by Lanzadera belong to, and could you highlight a few for us?

Lanzadera has fostered more than 600 start-ups from all sec-tors. There are now more than 200 companies in the building and you can find everything from video game developers, to app developers working on remote patient care, to entrepre-neurs making shoes, clothes and make-up. There is everything, at all stages of maturity. One of the advantages of Lanzadera is precisely this ability to bring together such different profiles, creating highly productive synergies between them.

Textile companies are one of the key industrial sectors in Spain and are often considered a global benchmark. What presence does this sector have in the start-ups hosted by Lanzadera?

We have experience with textile companies, and have worked with many, and it is true that it is a leading sector in our country. One of the most outstanding examples, thanks to its innova-tive nature, is Sepiia. The CEO of this smart garment company, Federico Sainz de Robles, spent 5 years in the textile labo-ratories of AITEX working as a researcher, before seeing that there was another way of making garments, through technol-ogy, new materials and respect for the environment. This led to him founding Sepiia 5 years ago: it is promoted by Lanzadera and currently receives the support of companies like Facebook thanks to the agreements that we signed with these huge glob-al companies.

What are the most common barriers to entrepreneurship, and could you tell us a little about the work Lanzadera is doing in this respect, such as the “open innovation” programme?

Entrepreneurship is not easy, and the early stages are often the most critical. Approximately one in three start-ups fail in the early stages.

Entrepreneurial projects in the initial phase require, above all, special attention to identify problems and opportunities and to accurately assess their business as a whole, before they launch. They must have clear parameters for the start-up of the project with guarantees of success and profitability.

18

_interview

This is where Lanzadera comes in, providing funding and mentoring to work on the first version of a product, validating the proposal by talking to customers and suppliers and imple-menting the business model.

The more mature start-ups have other needs: their objec-tives are focused on boosting growth, and this scalability often requires the support of large companies and strategic alliances that help them reach the next level. At Lanzadera, we have detected this need, but we have also seen that in-creasingly, large companies are looking to start-ups for the agility they offer, this combination works and the proof is in the excellent results achieved with the Open Innovation initiative.

Could you explain how access to funding for start-ups works, the criteria used to grant support and what types and levels of funding are available?

The way in which funding is provided to the start-ups is through convertible equity loans - except for the Start phase for start-ups, where €4,000 is provided as a non-repayable loan. Lan-zadera loans require neither guarantees nor personal guar-antees and are interest-free. Depending on the fulfilment of a series of milestones, which are set by mutual agreement with the entrepreneur, they receive total funding of between €50,000 and €500,000, in monthly instalments depending on the stage of the start-up (Traction, Growth or Scale).

Loan repayments are scheduled with a 2-year grace period and 3 years repayment in ascending instalments of the total amount borrowed.

What role do technology partners play in Lanzadera pro-jects?

It is a great help for entrepreneurs, from Lanzadera we have articulated it through two channels: Corporates and Hubs, such as the recently launched Health Hub and the Lanzad-era Space initiative, which welcomes companies from the en-trepreneurship, investment and technology sectors that can provide value and business opportunities to start-ups and help the entrepreneurial ecosystem of Marina de Empresas to grow. We already have several technology partners that provide on-site or remote support, such as Amazon Web Ser-vices, Stripe and Hubspot, Amadeus, Facebook, Telefónica - Wayra, Garrigues, and IBM.

In the case of the Health Innovation Hub, partners become technology enablers for start-ups, e.g. IBM, Amazon Alexa, Medtronic, SGS and Siemens.

Increasingly, large companies are looking to start-ups to be more agile - the combination works.

19


Healthineers are partners who offer their technology to entrepre-neurs, giving them more opportunities to grow by taking the hand of a larger company and building on successful technologies.

One of AITEX principal R&D lines is concerned with the sensorisation of garments for gamification and eSports. As a member of the Board of Directors of AVEPE (Valen-cian Association for the Promotion and Visibility of the eSports Industry), how do you think the textile industry can collaborate with the eSports industry?

I think there is a long way to go in this field. Clothing sen-sorisation opens up wide horizons in eSports, and many other sectors. Lanzadera supports several companies work-

ing on virtual reality, but I would like to highlight one related to textiles: NeuroDigital. They have developed a technology to bring the sense of touch to virtual reality through haptic technology, enabling the user to look at their hands like in real life and interact naturally without any controller, just a pair of gloves. This is just one example of how fiction can become reality.

What advice would you give to an entrepreneur?

Total commitment to the project and surrounding yourself with a good team is much more important than a good idea. Experience has shown me that there are no magic formulas for success, but a good dose of hard work, the right training to lay the groundwork and coordination with a well-chosen team usually works, even if the idea is not particularly bril-liant. That is why at Lanzadera, we pay special attention to the person. The entrepreneur comes first, we can work on the rest.

Finally, what is your opinion of the role of AITEX as a Technology Centre at the service of companies?

AITEX is significantly improving the competitiveness of the tex-tile sector by encouraging modernisation and the introduction of new technologies. Innovation in textiles has a positive im-pact on many areas of society and it is great to see the support you give to people who are just starting out.

There are no magic formulas for success, but a good dose of hard work, the right training to lay the groundwork and coordination with a well-chosen team usually works, even if the idea is not particularly brilliant.

20

_research

Daniel López-Rodríguez(1), Bàrbara Micó-Vicent(2), María Ángeles Bonet-Aracil(1), Eva Bou-Belda(1)

Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, Alcoy Campus

Recovery and reuse of textile dyes

Introduction

During the last few decades we have witnessed events that are affecting the stability of our planet. The Earth’s resourc-es are limited and we must be more aware of the pollution we are dumping. An increasing number of systems are be-ing implemented to reduce water consumption and reuse it as efficiently as possible with the minimum possible environ-mental impact.

Considering the textile industry and more specifically its use of chemicals, we can see that it is one of the most heavily pollut-ing industries as regards waste water discharge. The concen-tration of dyes in effluent can be up to 1,000 ppm, which is why it is so important to look for methods to eliminate dyestuff from wastewater. Table 1 below shows the degree of fixation of dif-ferent dyes in fibre and its loss in effluent.

Synthetic dyes are increasingly used in the textile industry be-cause they are easy to use, inexpensive, highly stable and offer a wide variety of colours compared to natural dyes. Artificial dyes are synthetic organic compounds, which are molecular-ly dispersed and bind to textile substrates by intermolecular forces. There are more than 10,000 dyes available and most of them are difficult to biodegrade due to their complex aromatic molecular structure and their synthetic origin.

Family Material Degree of fixation (%)

Loss in effluent (%)

Acids Polyamide/Wool 80-95 5-20

Azoic Cellulose 75-90 10-25

Basic Acrylic 95-100 0-5

Direct Cellulose 70-95 5-30

Disperse Polyester 90-100 0-10

Pre-metallised Wool 85-95 5-15

Reactive Cellulose 60-90 10-40

Sulphurous Cellulose 60-86 15-40

Tina Cellulose 80-95 5-20

Table 1: percentage of fixation of different dyes and estimated loss in effluent

Various methods have been used to separate this type of contamination, one of the most popular of which is the use of nanoclays (halloisite, hydrotalcite, montmorillonite, etc.). These materials have specific properties that provide high adsorption capacity for dyes of all kinds and, once adsorbed within the structure, the dye is trapped, preventing its release into the effluent, while at the same time enabling harvesting and re-use.

Objective

Therefore, as we mentioned in the introduction, the core goal of this project is to achieve the maximum possible absorption of the dye in aqueous solution by the nanoclay to effectively remove the pollutant from the effluent. These clay minerals are inexpensive and the process is not very complex, which makes it an ideal approach.

Once the dye has been adsorbed and the clay has been col-lected from the aqueous medium, the second objective is to reuse the clay-dye hybrid. In this respect, three possible lines of reuse can be described:

1. Some of the dye can be desorbed to make new dye solutions. This involves exposing the clay to heat and to alkaline or acid pH, depending on the characteristics of the clay-dye interaction, which breaks the ionic bond and leaves the dye in aqueous solution again.

2. The resulting hybrid can be used directly as a pigment in printing. The formulae for printing are the same as those used with pigments, using the same type of binders and specialities. Several studies have shown that using this hybrid instead of pigments improves the colourfastness as the dye is protected by the clay.

3. Again, the hybrid can be used directly in an extruder, for example to print different structures on a 3D printer, us-ing the dye that is held within the clay.

The objectives of this study are therefore to eliminate the residual dye from the dye baths before it reaches the effluent and, once it has been captured by the nanoclay, to use it in some way, either as a printing pigment, new dye solution or polymer for 3D print-ing. In any case, the results support the circular economy.

Experimental development and results

In recent years, adsorption has become the most effective way of removing various kinds of dyes. The process is conditioned by several parameters, such as initial adsorbate concentration, pH, adsorbent dosage, contact time, adsorbent particle size, temperature, etc., and is present in most natural, physical, bio-logical and chemical systems. Adsorption using solids as ad-sorbents is widely used in industrial applications and for water and wastewater purification.

inves&gación

En los estos trabajos se han u&lizado diferentes &pos de arcillas como halloisita (HA), hidrotalcita (HC), montmorillonita (MMT). Las caracterís&cas que &enen pueden ser muy diferentes, polaridad posi&va o nega&va, forma laminar, tubular o a surcos, etc. También diferentes &pos de colorante; directos, reac&vos, ca&ónicos, los cuales también &enen diferentes pesos moleculares, diferentes cargas y propiedades. Todo esto da una variabilidad que crea una necesidad muy diversa por los diferentes colorantes, pero que queda muy bien sa&sfecha por la gran diversidad de arcillas que existen las cuales permiten que se pueda adaptar este &po de actuaciones a cualquier &ntura residual.

En el desarrollo de la parte experimenta se ha trabajado a diferentes concentraciones tanto de arcillas como de colorantes para ver el comportamiento en diferentes condiciones. Para ello se preparan disoluciones de 500 ml donde se introduce la arcilla y se deja con agitación durante 24 horas. Una vez se ha dejado que interaccione la arcilla y el colorante se filtra para separar el agua y el hibrido. Después de seca el hibrido para eliminar las par[culas de agua que pueda tener. En la imagen 1 podemos ver diferentes imágenes de algunas nanoarcillas.

Imagen 1. a) HC SEM b) HA SEM c) MMT SEM

En este punto se observan elevados niveles de adsorción por parte de las arcillas, situándose siempre por encima del 95% de eliminación de colorantes en las aguas, lo cual es considerado como un excelente resultado. En la tabla 2 podemos ver algunos resultados de adsorción con hidrotalcita (HC).

Tabla 2. Diferencia en la concentración tras la adsorción por la HC

Cabe señalar que el fenómeno que acontece es el de una adsorción del colorante por parte de la arcilla, ya que este úl&mo no llega a penetrar dentro del mineral, sino que se queda fuertemente ligado a su superficie. En otros procesos de absorción se produce previamente esa fase de adsorción, pero en este caso no llega a ocurrir la absorción.

Una vez tenemos el hibrido arcilla-colorante podemos optar por las 3 líneas definidas anteriormente, hacer una desorción para una nueva &ntura, estampar el hibrido como si fuera

Muestra Inicial conc. g·L-1 Final conc. g·L-1 % Adsorcion

Direct Blue 71 1 0.05 2.30 · 10-3 95.40%

Reactive Yellow 2 0.05 4.08 · 10-4 99.18%

Direct Red 23 3 0.05 9.55 · 10-4 98.09%

Direct Blue 199 4 0.05 1.56 · 10-3 96.88%

21


In this work, different types of clay have been used, such as halloisite (HA), hydrotalcite (HC) and montmorillonite (MMT). Their characteristics differ widely; positive or nega-tive polarity, laminar, tubular or grooved shape, etc. there are also different types of dyes available; direct, reactive, cationic, which also have different molecular weights, charg-es and properties. It is this diversity which creates a need for an enormous variety of dyes, but which is also satisfied by the range of clays available, allowing performance to be adapted to a particular dye.

In the experimental development, different concentrations of clays and dyes have been used, to study their behaviour un-der different conditions. 500 ml solutions of clay were prepared and stirred for 24 hours. Once the clay and the dye had inter-acted, they were filtered to separate the water and the hybrid. The hybrid was then dried to remove any remaining water. Im-age 1 shows different nanoclays.

High levels of adsorption (always above 95%) by the clays are observed, which is considered to be an excellent result. Table 2 shows sample adsorption results with hydrotalcite (HC).

Sample Initial conc. g·L-1

Final conc. g·L-1

% Adsorption

Direct Blue 71 1 0.05 2.30 · 10-3 95.40%

Reactive Yellow 2 0.05 4.08 · 10-4 99.18%

Direct Red 23 3 0.05 9.55 · 10-4 98.09%

Direct Blue 199 4 0.05 1.56 · 10-3 96.88%

Table 2: difference in concentration after adsorption by HC.

Once we have the clay-dye hybrid, we can opt for one of the three lines described above; desorption for a new dyeing, printing the hybrid as if it were a pigment or extrusion. The re-sults obtained in any of the three processes are excellent, even in the case of desorption, the clay can be used again in other adsorption processes for new dye solutions.

Conclusions

The results clearly demonstrate the adsorbent capacity of the clays for any type of dye. The fixation of the colour within the clay is very high, which allows it to be reused in other process-es such as those described. However, the surface charges of the dyes and the clays are different in each case, except in the case of clays such as halloisite, which has a different positive and negative charge on each side, therefore the adsorption ca-pacity of each clay on each type of specific dye will be affected by this charge factor.

Thus, the design of a water purification system with dyes us-ing nanotechnologies is a novel implementation that can be carried out on an industrialised scale in many manufacturing processes. From a scientific point of view, it is a line of research that is arousing the interest of numerous research centres and universities, and progress should accelerate.

Remember that the circular economy is a very valuable strat-egy for sustaining our planet’s resources, as it aims to reduce raw material consumption and reduce waste, creating a closed system of interaction. In some countries it is known as the three “R’s” (recycle, reduce, reuse) and it is precisely this type of work that aims to reduce the dye discharged into the water, recycle that dye and reuse the clay-dye hybrid that has been produced during adsorption.

It should be noted that the phenomenon that occurs is adsorp-tion of the dye by the clay, since the dye does not penetrate the mineral, but remains strongly bonded to its surface. In other absorption processes, this phase occurs beforehand, but in this case, absorption does not take place.

1 Department of Textile and Paper Engineering, Universitat Politècnica de València, Plaza Ferrándiz y Carbonell s/n, Alcoy, Spain;

2 Departament of graphic engineering, Universitat Politècnica de Va-lència, Plaza Ferrándiz y Carbonell s/n, Alcoy, Spain;

Image 1: a) HC SEM b) HA SEM c) MMT SEM.

inves&gación

En los estos trabajos se han u&lizado diferentes &pos de arcillas como halloisita (HA), hidrotalcita (HC), montmorillonita (MMT). Las caracterís&cas que &enen pueden ser muy diferentes, polaridad posi&va o nega&va, forma laminar, tubular o a surcos, etc. También diferentes &pos de colorante; directos, reac&vos, ca&ónicos, los cuales también &enen diferentes pesos moleculares, diferentes cargas y propiedades. Todo esto da una variabilidad que crea una necesidad muy diversa por los diferentes colorantes, pero que queda muy bien sa&sfecha por la gran diversidad de arcillas que existen las cuales permiten que se pueda adaptar este &po de actuaciones a cualquier &ntura residual.

En el desarrollo de la parte experimenta se ha trabajado a diferentes concentraciones tanto de arcillas como de colorantes para ver el comportamiento en diferentes condiciones. Para ello se preparan disoluciones de 500 ml donde se introduce la arcilla y se deja con agitación durante 24 horas. Una vez se ha dejado que interaccione la arcilla y el colorante se filtra para separar el agua y el hibrido. Después de seca el hibrido para eliminar las par[culas de agua que pueda tener. En la imagen 1 podemos ver diferentes imágenes de algunas nanoarcillas.

Imagen 1. a) HC SEM b) HA SEM c) MMT SEM

En este punto se observan elevados niveles de adsorción por parte de las arcillas, situándose siempre por encima del 95% de eliminación de colorantes en las aguas, lo cual es considerado como un excelente resultado. En la tabla 2 podemos ver algunos resultados de adsorción con hidrotalcita (HC).

Tabla 2. Diferencia en la concentración tras la adsorción por la HC

Cabe señalar que el fenómeno que acontece es el de una adsorción del colorante por parte de la arcilla, ya que este úl&mo no llega a penetrar dentro del mineral, sino que se queda fuertemente ligado a su superficie. En otros procesos de absorción se produce previamente esa fase de adsorción, pero en este caso no llega a ocurrir la absorción.

Una vez tenemos el hibrido arcilla-colorante podemos optar por las 3 líneas definidas anteriormente, hacer una desorción para una nueva &ntura, estampar el hibrido como si fuera

Muestra Inicial conc. g·L-1 Final conc. g·L-1 % Adsorcion

Direct Blue 71 1 0.05 2.30 · 10-3 95.40%

Reactive Yellow 2 0.05 4.08 · 10-4 99.18%

Direct Red 23 3 0.05 9.55 · 10-4 98.09%

Direct Blue 199 4 0.05 1.56 · 10-3 96.88%

A B C

22

_sustainability

Extended Producer Responsibility reaches the textile sector

AITEX Circular Economy and Sustainability Technical Unit

The European Green Deal and the Spanish Strategy for a Cir-cular Economy prioritise textiles and clothing as a key econom-ic sector for a new circular production and consumption model that optimises processes and eliminates waste.

In this regard, the new Law on Waste and Contaminated Land brings into force in Spain the legislative changes of the Europe-an Directive ((EU) 2018/851) on waste. Among other measures, it establishes the selective collection of textile waste, prohibits the destruction of unsold stock and establishes an extended producer responsibility regime for the textile sector. But how will these measures affect companies in the textile value chain?

The current situation

Global textile production has doubled in the last 20 years, reaching an all-time high of 111 million tonnes in 20191 with growth forecast at least until 2030. This increase, together with consumption patterns creates huge amounts of waste.

1 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2020. Textile Exchange.

The recycling rate for textiles is, however, very low. Only about 13% is recycled in some form after use. Most is transformed into other lower value items such as rags, insulation or filling material and less than 1% is recycled into new fibre.

This is mainly due to the fact that textile waste is not separated from other waste. More than 85% of textile products discarded by consumers end up in landfills or incinerators.

Although there are textile recycling banks placed at strategic points by social organisations or recovery and recycling con-tractors, the reality is that each municipality manages collec-tion on a voluntary basis at its own discretion.

New regulations

The European Directive ((EU) 2018/851) obliges Member States to start separate collection of textile waste by 1 Janu-ary 2025. From then, in addition to separate collection, specific textile reuse and recycling targets will be set. This will have an

23


impact on the entire value chain as companies will need to start designing and preparing their products to contain recycled material and to allow for recycling.

These measures will come into force in Spain, through the new Law on Waste and Contaminated Soil, which is expected to be approved by the Council of Ministers this month, which estab-lishes Extended Producer Responsibility (individual or collec-tive) for the textile sector. In addition, the destruction of unsold textile product will be prohibited.

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) shifts the cost of man-aging the waste created by a product to the producer.

The concept is coined in the E.U.’s policy which is summed up in the “polluter pays” principle. The aim is to introduce ap-propriate waste management for waste that has already been separated, to ensure that no environmental damage ensues, but without the cost being passed on to the public purse or people who do not use the article.

Until now, in Spain it was only mandatory for electrical and electronic equipment, batteries and accumulators, vehicles, packaging, tyres and mineral oils.

The Law on Waste and Contaminated Land delimits the scope of this responsibility, establishing the obligations to which pro-ducers may be subject, both in the design and production phase and during the management of the waste, either individ-ually (through deposit, return and refund systems) or through collective systems (SCRAP).

Collective Extended Producer Responsibility Schemes (SCRAP)

Collective Extended Producer Responsibility Schemes are managed by non-profit organisations that allow companies to fulfil their EPR obligations by sharing the operating costs of a scheme.

According to the SCRAP model, any producer who wants to put a product on the market must pay a management fee covering collection and treatment to the responsible entity. An example would be the ECOEMBES model for packaging. However, this fee is usually built into the price of the product and passed on to the customer.

In order to facilitate waste collection, the responsible entity or SCRAP signs agreements and arrangements with regional au-tonomous communities, whereby the municipalities carry out the collection, in exchange for payment.

Refashion, the example of textile SCRAP in France

France is the only country in Europe with an Extended Pro-ducer Responsibility system. There, they have opted for a collective system called Refashion (formerly Eco TLC), which has been approved by the government since 2007. Manu-facturers are obliged by law to pay a contribution, which the organisation pays the plants according to the tonnage of clothes they sort, and municipalities are rewarded for publish-ing reports on the sorting and collection of clothing. Since its implementation, France has doubled the proportion of used textiles collected for reuse and recycling, halving the quanti-ties sent to landfill.

The basic fee paid by the manufacturer is based on the weight of the product, irrespective of materials or quality, but Refash-ion is extending the contribution rate to reward the reduction of materials in manufacturing and the recyclability rate. In this modular system, the more environmental criteria companies meet, the less they pay.

In short, recycling is key, so it is important to prepare the prod-ucts before increasing the collection rate, to reduce the pos-sibility of tonnes of separated textile waste that cannot be dis-posed of.

Sustainability and Circular Economy at AITEX

The sector faces significant challenges and barriers to ensure successful recycling of textile waste. One of the most important is the revalorisation of fibre blends economically and sustain-ably. Another fundamental part are separation and sorting pro-cesses that are generally carried out manually, raising costs and creating a recycling bottleneck.

Some solutions to enable textile repair, reuse and recycling would be the design of mono-material products or, where ap-propriate, of products that allow disassembly and separation into components for recycling, in an approach which incorpo-rates environmental criteria from the initial design of the prod-uct, known as Eco-design.

AITEX places its capabilities and resources at the disposal of textile manufacturers to work on developing R&D projects, ob-taining certifications that accredit good practices and specific training in the field of sustainability and circular economy.

For further information, visit our website aitex.es/sostenibilidad

24

Social commitment actions

Donations and social aid programme

The President of AITEX, León Grau and the General Director of AITEX, Vicente Blanes, presented the second Donations and Social Aid Programme 2021, which has granted 11 asso-ciations and foundations more than €70,000 to carry out social projects.

AITEX has promoted the second call for “Donations to Social Projects and Initiatives” with the aim of contributing to initiatives aimed at priority groups at risk of social exclusion, through pro-jects that favour the coverage of basic needs, personal and social support and improving the quality of life. The projects also recognise and collaborate with non-profit organisations that work for the benefit of society as a whole.

AITEX has granted €70,792 to finance initiatives aimed at miti-gating disability, dependency, poverty and risk of social exclu-sion.

The selected entities were assessed according to criteria in-cluding capacity to develop the project (infrastructure and per-sonnel required), experience in carrying out similar projects, social impact and objective identification of needs, social, technical and economic viability, and the overall quality of the proposal.

Eleven entities have benefited from the Donations and Social Aid Programme:

• ACOVIFA - Association against Gender and Family Vio-lence - Alcoy and Region.

Grant: €8,000

The project provides victims of gender-based violence with the appropriate tools to cover their needs and the necessary sup-port to achieve their social inclusion.

• ADIBI - Ibi Association for the Disabled and Rare Dis-eases.

Grant: €8,000

The “ConVida20Adibi” project provides direct care to ten chil-dren with disabilities between the ages of 0 and 16 who lack economic resources; offering individualised physiotherapy, occupational therapy, psycho-pedagogy, psychology and speech therapy services.

• AEPA - Foundation for the Analysis, Study and Preven-tion of Addictions of the Valencian Community, action to be carried out in Alcoy.

Grant: €5,000

The INTEGRA’2 project organises therapeutic actions enabling people who find themselves in a situation of social exclusion due to their addiction can improve their prospects. Thera-pies such as a therapeutic garden, leisure and free time pro-grammes and animal-assisted therapies will be used.

In order to reinforce the institutional aspect of AITEX, the Institute is involved in activities designed to have an impact on our members in the Valencian Community. These actions are framed within the context of institutional logic, which is complemented by the market logic of other Departments in the Institute. The common objective of the activity is that companies WORK TOGETHER with AITEX creating solutions that help them to overcome new challenges and boost growth. There follows a summary of the latest actions carried out by the Institutional Department, under the ADDYING with AITEX concept.

Visit to the therapeutic garden of the AEPA Foundation.

25


• AMACMEC - Association of Women Affected by Can-cer from - Elche and Region, action to be carried out in Crevillente.

Grant: €7.072

The “Mucho por Vivir” programme provides support and infor-mation during the process and treatment of breast cancer in order to achieve the physical, psychological and social well-being of those affected.

• APCA - Cerebral Palsy Association of Alicante, action to be carried out in Onil.

Grant: €5,000

The project proposes the use of new technologies enabling the organisation’s professionals to treat children with cerebral palsy.

• Friends of the Elderly Association - San Francisco de Ontinyent Residence.

Grant: €8,000

The “Cuidem Junts” project mitigates the loneliness of the el-derly by carrying out a personalised care plan.

• Associació TEA - Asperger Font Roja Mariola, de Alcoy. Grant: €8,000

The project promotes the social skills of people with ET, helping people with Asperger’s syndrome, childhood autism disorder, atypical autism and pervasive developmental disorder not oth-erwise specified (PDD-NOS).

• Associació Coratge, Alcoy. Grant: €6,720

The “Renàixer per viure” project improves the autonomy and independence of people who have suffered brain damage through neuropsychology, speech therapy, occupational ther-apy and neurophysiotherapy services.

• FFISAT - Angel Tomás Solidarity Initiative Foundation, action to be carried out in Alcoy.

Grant: €5,000

The Don Bosco Educational Support Project carries out pre-ventive work for children at social risk, facilitating guidance pro-cesses and contributing to the full social integration of its ben-eficiaries through socio-educational support, family monitoring and leisure and free time programmes. The actions contribute positively to the personal development of each beneficiary and have a long-term beneficial impact.

• La Salle Acoge Foundation, action to be carried out in Alcoy.

Grant: €5,000

The project ‘Hogares Nou Horitzó Alcoy I and II’ provides com-prehensive care and attention to basic needs, as well as so-

Visit to the Cerebral Palsy Association of Alicante.

Visit to the La Salle Acoge Foundation’s safe house

26

cial inclusion for people at risk of social exclusion, through the maintenance and operation of a safe house in Alcoy, which provides accommodation for people aged between 18 and 25, in order to promote their social and family integration.

• Archbishop Miguel Roca Canonical Foundation - Proyec-to Hombre and Cáritas Ontinyent

Grant: €5,000

The project improves the employability of people with addiction problems at the Ontinyent Day Centre.

The entities will carry out their social work in Alcoy, Ontinyent, Ibi, Onil and Crevillent

It should be noted that five of the beneficiary entities of the 2021 Donations and Social Aid Programme were also beneficiaries of the first edition of this call. AITEX continues to be commit-ted to the continuity of its projects supporting foundations and helping as many people as possible to carry out actions that guarantee continuity and stability for the beneficiaries.

The representatives of the Institutional Department of AITEX have made follow-up visits to see the evolution of the projects of the beneficiary associations, getting to know the participants and organisers of the projects first hand.

.

AITEX-UPV Chair

The AITEX-UPV Chair has announced the next editions of the activities held annually, increasing the prizes awarded in each category.

Among the calls for proposals, the following stand out:

IV Entrepreneurship in the Textile Sector Awards 2021

The aim is to reward the best business proposal with applica-tion in the textile sector, and which can be turned into a busi-ness activity.

The deadline for applications is 29 October 2021.

The winner will receive €3,000 from the AITEX UPV Chair and €9,000 granted by AITEX to carry out their proposal.

Awards for the best final degree projects for 2020-2021

The purpose of the call is to award three prizes to students of the Polytechnic University of Valencia, who are writing their dissertation on issues related to the textile sector, either from a technological, design, management, organisation, logistics or economics point of view.

Three prizes totalling €3,500 will be awarded.

Awards for the Best Academic Record in the Industrial Design Engineering Degree

€1,500 and the payment of the first year’s tuition fees for the UPV Master’s Degree in Textile Engineering will be awarded to the student with the best academic record in the Degree in Industrial Design and Product Development Engineering who has taken textile subjects.

Design competition for home textiles

The VI Home Textile Design Competition has two categories: printing and Jacquard. The aim of the competition is to reward the best designs and developments of a creative fabric for its application in a textile product for the home.

This year, the prize money has been increased to €4,750 be-tween the two categories.

Through these actions, AITEX continues to support the AITEX-UPV Chair as a tool to give visibility to the textile sector, and to show that it is an industry at the forefront of scientific and technological advances.

More information at: catedraaitex.webs.upv.es

Visit to the Archbishop Miguel Roca Foundation.

27


28

AITEX Cosmetics Technical Unit

Here to stay: natural, ecological, vegan, organic and eco-friendly product lines

It is the case that there is now a growing trend for consumers to choose, in different areas of life, options that have the least impact on the environment.

The phenomenon of cosmetics which are natural, ecological, organic, vegan and eco-friendly is now firmly established in different consumer spheres in beauty and hairdressing salons, and in our homes and social networks.

According to the SEQC (Spanish Society of Cosmetic Chem-ists), there has been an increase of more than 20% in the growth of products considered environmentally friendly in the wake of the COVID-19 crisis, and the forecast is for continued growth into the future.

For a product to be considered “sustainable”, it must meet cer-tain requirements, ranging from the raw materials used to the manufacturing process and the production chain. Every stage of the process must be certified to ensure that it has no nega-tive impact on the environment and that certain standards are respected.

It is best to know the meaning of each denomination

Natural cosmetics: those made with 95% natu-ral ingredients, obtained from plants, animals, micro-organisms or minerals with a very sim-ple or minimal transformation process and with

minimum alteration using additives or chemical transformations and which employ only processes

that are not harmful to the environment or health. This broad compendium of products includes those containing up to 5% non-natural ingredients, and the INCI (International Nomen-clature of Cosmetic Ingredients) gives the names of chemical compounds it contains.

Ecological cosmetics: those containing natu-ral ingredients from organic farming. In order to certify a product, 95% of the natural ingredients it contains must come from organic farming and

be accompanied by a certificate of organic or livestock farming.

Organic cosmetics: deriving from the English “organic farming”, and now adopted to define everything that is ecological. In this case, eco-logic and organic cosmetics are one and the

same.

Vegan cosmetics: this term includes cosmetics that do not contain ingredients that are derived from animals in any way and neither have animal products been used at any stage of the manu-

facture.

Eco-friendly cosmetics: this is not an official term, but one that has begun to appear in the world of cosmetics marketing. The definition in-cludes products that are natural and ecological,

as well as being free of animal cruelty (according to EC regulation 1223/2009, which governs cosmetics: it is ob-ligatory that all cosmetics in the EU are animal cruelty free) and that packaging is as environmentally friendly as possible.

Revolution and change

The natural cosmetics revolution stems from the consumers’ own interest in taking care of our body and leading a healthier lifestyle that is beneficial for our bodies. This implies the elimi-nation of substances which, although not harmful in the con-centrations present in cosmetics (as any cosmetic sold within the European Community must comply with EC Regulation 1223/2009), are added chemicals whose long-term cumulative effects are, for the time being and in some cases, unknown. There is a growing majority of users who reject the use of these substances for medical reasons, allergies, skin sensitivity or simply because they prefer to use products with fewer ingredi-ents of chemical origin.

However, the consolidation in the market of the natural, eco-logical, eco-friendly trend is not a change where the effects are seen on our skin, but is reflected in the environment. It is the environment that benefits, and this will be no fleeting fad. Together with the movement of users towards the use of more sustainable products, the sector is developing regulations and certificates that promote the move towards natural products.

Regulations and certifications

One of the most interesting examples in this area is the Waste and Contaminated Soil Act, which is currently in draft form.

The law, which is awaiting approval and will officially come into force on 3 July 2021, restricts the use of microplastics in cosmetics. As a result of this regulation, many companies are changing their exfoliating microparticles, for example, to mi-

29

croparticles of natural origin, such as crushed fruit seeds or biodegradable cellulose microparticles.

Another regulation promoting the trend towards natural, or-ganic and eco-friendly products is Commission Decision (EU) 2018/1590 of 19 October 2018 amending Decisions 2012/481/EU, 2014/391/EU, 2014/763/EU and 2014/893/EU approving biodegradable products, which the more discerning users choose, and Regulation 149002:2019 regulating disposable wipes and toilet paper. Those products that comply with the regulation can be flushed with the certainty that it will not be a problem for the environment, as they biodegrade relatively easily.

These examples are, in turn, marketing strategies, as an environ-mentally conscientious user will choose products that comply.

On the other hand, some certificates serve as a guarantee for the consumer to differentiate a supposedly natural product from a truly natural or organic one, issued by private certifiers such as ECO- CERT (France), BDIH (Germany), Soil Associa-tion (UK), AIAB (Italy), COSMEBIO (France), CCPB (Italy), Eco Garantie (Belgium) and the Cosmos standard. The most com-mon in the national market are those certified by ECOCERT and COSMEBIO.

Beyond health and the environment

Not only is there a link between natural, organic cosmetics and consumer health, the environment and sustainability, but there are other reasons why more and more users of cosmetic prod-ucts are joining this trend. This type of cosmetics has proven its effectiveness in various, usually long-term applications and treatments. Cosmetics promising instant or quick results usu-ally contain chemicals or additives that are precisely those that are rejected by natural, organic, eco-friendly cosmetics. Thanks to this growing trend, more and more cosmetic firms are investing in R&D to safeguard more effectively and power-fully, the benefits of plants, keeping their properties and quali-ties intact, from the extraction of the active ingredient to its in-corporation in the cosmetic and its stability in the formula. Thus ensuring that it remains active and functional when it reaches the consumer.

The growing variety in this type of products translates into a greater choice for the consumer depending on their needs. The trend has not been limited to a single type of cosmetic, but has included many others, from body creams, sunscreens, facials, oils, serums, hygiene and intimate hygiene products, to make-up, hair removal products, nail polish and impregnated wipes. The world of cosmetics is surrendering to the natural, ecological, vegan, organic and eco-friendly revolution.

However, this trend does not necessarily mean that the rest of cosmetics are banished. Natural, ecological or vegan cos-

metics are an alternative when it comes to choosing the prod-ucts with which users take care of their bodies and the envi-ronment around them. Although the movement is entering the cosmetics market unremittingly and is here to stay, there are still many users who are reticent about the results offered by natural products and those who have not yet found the natu-ral product that suits their lifestyle.

This commitment to society, the environment and personal beauty is the common denominator for natural, ecological, ve-gan and eco-friendly cosmetics and it is in the hands of users to choose those brands, products and tools that best fit the philosophy and priorities.

Services offered by AITEX

AITEX Cosmetics helps cosmetics manufacturers to evolve their products in a more natural and organic direction by assist-ing in the development of cosmetic formulas within the criteria of natural, organic or vegan and by certifying products under the 1490002:2019 standard as flushable.


For more information, contact [email protected] (663961996) or visit www.aitex.es/cosmetica

30

WORTH Partnership Pro-ject WORTH is an initiative of the European Commis-sion that aims to build connections and develop a relevant community of active creatives and inno-vators in the fashion and

lifestyle industries in Europe. WORTH has emerged as a flag-ship initiative in a Europe increasingly committed to develop-ing smarter, sustainable and inclusive growth through design solutions.

The project’s profile has become highly visible over the three previous calls, in which 462 applications were submitted, in-volving 978 applicants from 36 EU-COSME countries.

Renowned creative industry experts carried out more than 960 evaluations, providing not only the selection of the 152 funded projects but also constructive feedback to support and advise the applicants.

WORTH PARTNERSHIP PROJECT IN FUORISALONE

Where collaboration, innovation and sustainability come together to bring competitive values to design.

The 2021 edition of Fuorisalone Digital was the occasion cho-sen by WORTH Partnership Project to present “CREATIVITY”: seven videos dealing with the most relevant topics for the world of design today. The Circular Economy, digital production, Craftsmanship 4.0, the use of materials with high added value and social innovation.

Each video showcases the 64 winning projects of the third call, whose projects have achieved great results thanks to Europe’s largest creative incubator: WORTH.

From 12 to 19 April 2021, in Milan, the winning projects of the third call for proposals were presented, focusing on topics such as lightweight multidirectional 3D mesh seats for passengers in drone taxis, a garment capable of reacting to earthquakes, and a lamp that marks the passing of time using bioluminescence as a light source, among others.

The Fuorisalone TV platform is a place where you can meet and interact with the designers and hear in their own words the challenges they face in the exclusive video series “CREATIV-ITY”, an incredible journey to discover the design of the future.

Creativity is the key factor for Europe’s future

“Creative communities are among the most dynamic and in-novative sectors of the EU economy and are the drivers of

Fecha inicio: 2017

Fecha fin: 2021

Coordinador: AITEX

Participantes: KEPA - Business and Cultural Development Centre; IED - Istituto Europeo di Design; DAG COMMUNI-CATION; AA - Avvocati Associati franzosi Dal Negro Setti

www.worthproject.eu


Eventos WORTH

WORTH Partnership Project

© Freyzein.

Given the success of the first WORTH programme, the European Commission has decided to continue it to support 200 more collaborations between designers and creatives, start-ups and SMEs in the textile, fashion, footwear, leather, fashion, jewellery, furniture and accessories sectors with a special focus on digitisation and sustainability. Over the next four years and through three new calls, 200 consortia will benefit from financial support, personalised mentoring, training, networking, professional links and presence at international exhibitions and industry events.

31


the transition to a more sustainable and inclusive society and economy. They are increasingly seen as key actors at the fore-front of tackling global challenges, such as shifting to a more sustainable landscape or building a resilient society”, Silvia Draghi Policy Advisor at the European Commission.

Creativity, the theme of WORTH PARTNERSHIP PRO-JECT for Fuorisalone 2021

Creativity involves six themes that represent the challenges to be taken up by the European Union to improve not only Eu-rope’s economy, but also the social inclusion of all citizens in the European area.

The challenges are as follows:

• The Circular Economy, one in three participating pro-jects addresses one of the challenges related to the circular economy and resource efficiency. WORTH be-lieves in a fashion industry that values communities, the environment, creativity and profit in equal measure.

• Digital Manufacturing, when it is so difficult to keep up with technological potential, it is essential to under-stand why you should build something in the first place. Today’s challenges lie in interpreting consumer patterns and how they are constantly changing. To change the future, design must alter the status-quo of production and design through digitisation and virtualisation, sus-tainability and circularity.

• High Added-value Solutions, the innovative trends are framed in multiple dimensions through the exhibition of the projects carried out in WORTH. In this category, WORTH’s goal is to present the ways in which creatives and produc-ers implement innovative technologies to solve challeng-

es in very practical and realistic ways through research, inspiration, ideation, prototyping, demonstration, pilot testing and standardisation and certification.

• High Performance Materials, through the WORTH projects in this category, visitors will learn how materials and design converge around a key interface between users and their environment through intelligent functions such as detection, actuation, communication, energy generation and storage.

• The Reinvention of the Crafts, one in every four pro-jects selected in WORTH addresses challenges related to the reinvention of craftsmanship and how this af-fects the modern world and its need to survive. There is a wealth of skilled craftsmen and women across Eu-rope, who carry their culture and talents from generation to generation and who can benefit from the values of WORTH.

• Social innovation, design can contribute to social change by addressing the social challenges we face as a society every day. WORTH strongly believes that de-sign can focus not only on improving the look and func-tionality of products, but also on finding great solutions from looking deeply into the knowledge of consumers and specific groups to address special needs.

© Haizea Nájera Muñoz.© Loreto Binvignat.© Studio Hilo.

The WORTH Partnership Project is fund-ed by the European Union’s COSME programme for the Competitiveness of Enterprises and Small and Medium-sized Enterprises.

32

MoseanicMoseanic, a new, more sustainable terrazzo material

Partners: ÁGI GÖB & LUCKA BERLOT

Country: Hungary & Slovenia

Moseanic combines positive characteristics (it is strong, sol-id, translucent and natural). So much for the practical side, but there is also an emotional aspect: raising our awareness of the plastics in our oceans and how it can be reused and giving the consumer a positive experience. The team plans to design products, such as lamps, and explore the possibili-ties of using Moseanic as a raw material.

Sentido de la naturalezaAn earthquake-sensitive garment

Partners: Moon Ribas, Montserrat Ciges and Adriana Ca-brera

Country: UK, Spain and Germany

This project aims to create a garment that reacts to an earth-quake somewhere in the world in real time. The garment is designed to be worn on stage during a performance, allow-ing the audience to visualise how the earth moves and is alive. The project uses a robotic approach that mimics plate tectonic movements such as centrifugal movements, that are extrapolated from points where there is movement on the planet.

ALMAThe new bio-vegan material

Partners: OSIER B.V. and Mabel SRL

Country: The Netherlands and Italy

The leather industry is one of the world’s most heavily pol-luting industries and uses huge volumes of chemicals and water. In the project, vegan leather made from organic algae oils is used instead of conventional PU, which provides the innovation component. In addition, the project will develop a capsule collection of vegan leather jackets to demonstrate the benefits of the new sustainable leather. The aim of the project is to improve the carbon footprint of apple leather and its use as an alternative to vegan leather goods.

Bubble façadeSilicone bubbles for construction

Partners: Jan Serode and Gianni Tonino

Country: Germany and Luxembourg

The integration of bubbles in a dynamically changing façade is an innovative concept. The bubbles must adhere firmly to the textile façade and yet be flexible enough to be inflated. The team proposes to use two different types of silicone in the construction of the bubbles and pneumatic actuators to inflate them.

The aim is to create a new façade matrix, made of bubbles with different volumes and colours as a decorative visual ele-ment. The prototype will be a bubble façade element of at least 1 m2.

33


Crossing ParallelsInteraction between the craft of basket weaving and 3D printing

Partners: Esmé Hofman and Joris Van Tubergen

Country: Belgium and the Netherlands

New technologies are sometimes perceived as a threat to traditional craftsmanship. Crossing Parallels aims to dem-onstrate that ancient techniques and new technologies are not opposites, but can nurture and enhance each other. This hybrid collaboration invites us to reconsider the value of craft traditions in a contemporary context. The Crossing Parallels collection consists of baskets and containers. Partially hand-made, each maintains a hybrid aesthetic that projects the engagement between the traditions of basket weaving and digital fabrication.

Rethinking the BraNew textile structure rethinks the traditional bra

Partners: RETHINKING THE BRA and HOC LAB TECH SRL

Country: United Kingdom and Italy

The team researches women’s needs for the bra by ana-lysing the market, competitors and their needs, creating a community of women who collaboratively contribute suggestions and opinions. The results bring together 3D weaving technology with sustainable materials for the first time in bra design. The project innovates the bra structure using seamless technology, adapting it to the wearer to create an extremely comfortable, breathable and sustainable bra without the traditional underwire structure.

Manual BagA line of accessories that creates a connection be-tween the user and their belongings.

Partners: Lukas Avënas, Nedas Vilkas & Artisana LLC

Country: Lithuania and Estonia

Development of a handbag designed to carry small items that are normally kept in pockets or purses. The bag includes a disruptive opening mechanism to carry small personal items more comfortably. The innovative design offers the opportunity to apply engineering principles to improve the functionality of the bag, through an automatic opening and closing system at the touch of the palm of the hand.

34

BeaggieA garment designed to grow with the child

Partners: PROLOG DESIGN LTD STI & SUNSMITH STU-DIO

Country: Turkey and Spain

Children’s clothing is one of the fastest growing consumer markets worldwide. In Europe, children account for 18.7% of the population, with millennial parents investing more in their children’s appearance than previous generations. A collection of unisex, timeless and adaptable children’s nightwear and homeware will make manufacture more sustainable, thus creating a universe away from the idea of fast fashion. The project is developing a cutting pat-tern that can be adjusted to the growth of the child. It also takes into account the use of recycled fabrics and ecologi-cal printing processes.

No estamos solos en estoBlown glass lamp using bioluminescence as light source

Partners: AS A CEREMONY & ARCAM-GLASS

Country: Germany & France

NO ESTAMOS SOLOS EN ESTO converges the flow of the sea with the hot flow of the vessel, resulting in a unique transparent form, creating a firm yet delicate bond between the contents and the vessel. The lamps could be a pow-erful learning tool, allowing us to experience the beauty of nature through a unique encounter between biology, tech-nology and craftsmanship. The project produces a family of three blown glass lamps, using bioluminescence as a light source. A fully sustainable light production, giving an ana-logical escape from electricity and the digital world.

There is no light without movement, no time without light. Using glass craftsmanship to control movement and design time.

H|HThe first Zero Waste complete garment collection de-signed in 3-D.

Partners: STUDIO HILO & HOLLY MCQUILLAN

Country: Germany & Sweden

The need to develop new technologies for textile and gar-ment production making the concept of waste redundant, is forcing the textile industry to rethink its manufacturing work-flow into more sustainable and competitive models. The in-novation in H | H’s zero waste manufacturing system lies in the integration of two different textile technologies (custom-ised spinning production and zero waste weaving technol-ogy) into a complete Zero Waste garment production pro-cess. This project aims to change existing textile production infrastructures through a completely new workflow design.

35


DimmensoPortable emotional lighting system

Partners: MAUINO.COM & QHUB LIGHTEC EUROPA SIA, LUMISHEET

Country: Italy and Latvia

The challenge is to create a lamp that is not just an everyday object on our table, but an entire experience: the intensity of the light can be adjusted by opening the lid of the lamp, which is portable and can be placed vertically, horizontally or hung on the wall. A portable emotional lighting system con-sisting of a base and a top which, when opened, turns on the light and increases the intensity as the lid is opened further: like a chest that opens to reveal a shimmering treasure.

Sensing Color, a biannual capsule collection with bio-genic dyes

Partners: Loreto Binvignat and Vienna Textile Lab

Country: Germany and Austria

Industrial dyes have always been obtained from the petro-chemical industry, with only a handful of modern dyes of natural origin: substances of plant or animal origin used for thousands of years. With this collaboration, the team will cre-ate a biannual capsule collection, which aims to produce two core garments for this project: a coat and a dress to create a fully sustainable look dyed with bacteria, showcasing the potential of this innovative process.

LiloLiLO, a unique modular connector jewellery made from emerald by-products and recycled metals

Partners: MARÍA JOSÉ ZAMBRANO LÓPEZ & CLIC SRL

Country: United Kingdom & Italy

A link called LiLO (link and lock) made from emerald waste and recycled metals. LiLO will contribute to the modularity of jewellery and act as a bridge to connect, reuse and reinvent the chain in different contexts. It can also contribute to repo-sitioning the social, environmental and value perception of the emerald.

The concept is based on the deconstruction and remoulding of interchangeable links to form multiple chain combinations. It is designed to be simplified, broadened and optimised.

Ignorance is blissCollection of handmade carpets made from fibres wo-ven from natural waste.

Partners: Studio Agne & ECOLINUM

Country: The Netherlands and Lithuania.

A collection of handmade carpets, with fibre dyed from waste such as coal and iron from drinking water supply com-panies and other organic waste from the food, beverage and pharmaceutical industries. The objectives include recover-ing the value of currently ‘worthless’ waste in a functional, process-efficient and scalable way creating high quality, du-rable carpets that are as sustainable as possible at every stage of production as a challenge to the mass production of industrial textile dyes.

36

Glassware without Barriers CollectionUniversal collection of glassware that makes serving and drinking for the visually impaired easier

Partners: HAK STUDIO & FERRAN COLLADO

Country: Poland & Spain

The idea behind the project is to create a unique collection of glassware that facilitates the pouring of liquids and the drinking process for visually impaired people. An analogi-cal system of sounds and vibrations indicates to the user when the glass is full, making it easier for blind people to hold the glass firmly while drinking, making their lives easi-er. The main objective is to create a project that helps blind people to be independent and more confident in their daily life. The project takes a humanistic approach to the design of items that are easy to hold and have aesthetic values.

Edge ChairA comfortable, stackable chair made of solid ash wood

Partners: METTE SCHELDE & FISKARSIN PUUSEPÄT OY

Country: Denmark & Finland.

In collaboration with the Finnish carpentry company Fiskar-son Puusepät Oy, the project has developed a stackable chair with excellent comfort, a minimalist shape, made of natural wood and using traditional craftsmanship to create a unique chair using 5-axis CNC technology that can infuse wood with new functions and shapes in mass production. The organic shape of the wood adds an extra dimension to the chair and a tactile sensation when in contact with the body. The project is a combination of minimalist design, tra-ditional craftsmanship and technology that makes it possi-ble to produce new forms and functions in wood.

Salt MarbleMarble-like design stools made of salt as the main ma-terial

Partners: ROXANE LAHIDJI & FABIENNE MASSART

Country: France & Belgium

The Salt Marble project offers endless possibilities for mod-elling and imitation stone: like any stone composite, it is moulded and therefore generates virtually no waste. The first prototype of this collaboration consists of coffee tables and other indoor articles that provide stability and an internal steel reinforcement structure that connects the legs to the tabletop.

37


Kombucha TsugiBag Collection

Partners: THR34D5 & LOUCHE

Country: France & Netherlands

Creating a five-piece tsugi-bag kombucha collection show-casing the integration of kombucha-based materials and second-hand textiles. The project will develop a representa-tive bag collection as a high-end, proof-of-concept demon-stration of material compatibility and product supply chain, implementing a scalable kombucha manufacturing process with replicable standards that validate the sustainable sourc-ing of second-hand textiles in Paris. The project fosters local industry, circular economy and sustainable consumption by developing local communities in urban agriculture, with the long-term goal of creating a hybrid shop using open source techniques.

Nova UnderwearBreast support garments for breast cancer pa-tients

Partners: Textilross S.R.L., One Feeling Prints and Chi-ara Pasini

Country: Italy, Netherlands and Italy

The project aims to create an innovative bra collection for women diagnosed with breast cancer. The project uses skin care fabrics such as Crabmodal, an antibac-terial plant fibre that aids skin healing and is excellent for ultra-sensitive skin and fabrics with mineral particles, which transform body heat into energy that is reflected back to the skin, stimulating microcirculation and skin tone. This facilitates the healing process and provides comfort during treatment, combining a design that is adapted for the postoperative period but also adds aesthetic value, promoting self-confidence, femininity and intimacy.

EnaOnaCustomisable luxury high heels

Partners: GLASS SLIPPER, CDT Group and PROGETTI BOSNIA

Country: Serbia, Slovenia and Bosnia&Herzegovina

More than just a fashion manifesto, EnaOna’s authenticity lies in its unprecedented design innovation in the structure of the high-heeled shoe and the craftsmanship of its collectible jewellery heels. At the core of EnaOna’s high-heeled shoes is a set of patented components invented by the team, com-bining creative industrial design and modern materials to make high-heeled shoes. The shoes integrate an ergonomic insole, an ultra-thin and reusable carbon fibre core, and a hidden heel pin mechanism to change the height and shape of the heel.

38

New standards for OEKO-TEX certifications®

AITEX OEKO-TEX® Laboratory

As usual, at the beginning of the year the OEKO-TEX® Association updated the applicable com-pliance criteria, limit values and requirements for its range of certifications and labels. The fol-lowing new standards for ECO PASSPORT, STANDARD 100 and STeP by OEKO-TEX® came into force on 1 April 2021 after a three-month transition period.

_innovation

Due to the current Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic, the OE-KO-TEX® Association modified the STeP certification process and audit requirements for new and existing STeP clients as follows. The new procedure only applies to clients where travel restrictions apply, making the usual STeP certification process impossible to follow.

SELF-ASSESSMENT

Self-Assessment must be completed by the client within the stipulated timeframe so that the questionnaire can be reviewed by the STeP Auditor on time.

• New clients applying for STeP for the first time will be audited by the STeP Auditor through a Remote Guided Audit (including a Virtual Office Audit), during which an OEKO-TEX® representative will conduct an On-site Au-dit, guided by the STeP Auditor.

• Existing STeP clients already in the compliance pro-cess will be audited by the STeP Auditor through the Virtual Office Audit. The STeP Auditor decides if an additional Virtual Site Visit is necessary. For existing

clients who are in the process of recertification, the following audit procedure applies: If no significant changes to the premises have occurred, the STeP au-ditor will conduct a Virtual Office Audit with the client. If there have been significant changes (in manage-ment, units or processes, or additional processes), the STeP auditor will conduct a virtual office audit with the client and either a virtual site visit or an on-site audit within the next 9 months.

NEW SUBSTANCES ADDED TO THE STEP / DTZ BY OEKO-TEX® CHEMICAL PRODUCTS LIST

Titanium dioxide: addition of titanium dioxide (TiO2) for respir-able size particles to STeP Group 14.

UPDATED AIR EMISSION LIMIT VALUES IN ANNEX 5; AIR EMISSION LIMIT VALUES

SO2 limits for solid and liquid fuels have been tightened.

FURTHER DEVELOPMENT OF THE STEP QUESTIONNAIRE IN RELATION TO THE

FOLLOWING TOPICS

• GHG (Greenhouse Gas) emissions within the facility.• Safety in and around the wastewater treatment plant.• Awareness-raising on living wages.• Prevention/action plan for epidemics/pandemics.

39


NEW ADDITIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF LIMIT VALUES

Threshold Strengthening (TeBT): The TeBT threshold is lowered from 5 mg/kg to 1 mg/kg.

NEW UNDER OBSERVATION

Due to COVID-19 related travel restrictions, personal on-site visits are almost impossible. To temporarily overcome this situ-ation, a process of virtual on-site visits has been put in place. Virtual on-site visits are a temporary solution for our customers to obtain an ECO PASSPORT with on-site visit as well as ZDHC Level 3 compliance, maintaining the on-site visit.

CHANGES IN LIMIT VALUES

In general, the strict requirements for waste in textile materials place less burden on the environment, employees and con-sumers. In many cases, STANDARD 100 limit values go be-

yond national and international requirements. Therefore, the OEKO-TEX® strategy has been to be a proactive pioneer in the field of consumer protection, rather than wait for the law. This means that any article or product certified to the STANDARD 100, the LEATHER STANDARD and the ECOPASSPORT from OEKO-TEX®, also complies with the limit values of Appendix XVII of REACH.

RECYCLED MATERIALS

As of this year, a unified approach to integrating recycled ma-terials into the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 framework is be-ing introduced which will require a minimum recycled content, different test programmes depending on the origin of the ma-terial and the definition of the necessary background informa-tion. The label that is issued will inform consumers about the recycling efforts that have been made in the product’s manu-facture. Recycled materials are difficult to certify. Their previ-ous life means these materials pose different challenges than normal virgin material and so they are treated differently within OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 and receive a special mention in the scope of the certificate.

SELF-ASSESSMENT

Due to COVID-19 related travel restrictions, personal on-site visits are almost impossible. To temporarily overcome this situ-ation, a process of virtual on-site visits has been put in place. Virtual on-site visits are a temporary solution for our customers to obtain certification, while maintaining the on-site visit.

If you are interested in applying for any of the OEKO-TEX® certificates, contact AITEX,

an OEKO-TEX® Institute member.

[email protected]

40

_innovation

AITEX laboratory and notified body for the certification of marine equipment

AITEX Fire Protection Laboratory

The maritime transport sector is undergoing continuous growth and evolution, and the different products and components in-stalled on vessels must comply with international, European and national safety regulations.

The International Maritime Organisation (IMO) establishes, through the SOLAS Convention, minimum standards for the construction, equipment and use of ships to ensure the safety of life at sea. The European Union implements this regulatory framework through the Marine Equipment Directive 2014/90/EU together with Implementing Regulation (EU) 2020/1170.

In order to provide a framework of co-ordination and co-oper-ation for the application of international rules, MarED co-ordi-nates the group of Notified Bodies assigned by the Member States for the conformity assessment procedures referred to in the directive.

AITEX is a Notified Body for Marine Equipment

AITEX is Notified Body 0161 for assessing fire safety compli-ance of Marine Equipment.

The following products can be certified by AITEX and awarded the Ships Wheel Mark, which is a requirement before any prod-uct can be brought onboard.

PRODUCTS

MED/3.1: Primary roof coverings.

MED/3.3: Fire-fighting equipment: Protective clothing (immediate proximity).

MED/3.5: Firefighting equipment: Gloves.

MED/3.13: Non-combustible materials.

MED/3.18: Surfaces and floor coverings with low flame spread characteristics.

MED/3.19: Upholstery, curtains and other hanging textiles.

MED/3.20: Upholstered furniture.

MED/3.21: Bedding articles.

The certification process starts with Module B, EC Type Exami-nation. During the process, the Notified Body assesses that the prototype product to be certified complies with the applicable requirements, focusing on product testing and technical docu-mentation. Once conformity of the documentation provided by the applicant has been established, a certificate is issued with an expiry date of 5 years. The product may not be marked or

introduced into a vessel without being accompanied by an ad-ditional Module F or D certificate.

Module F is conformity to type based on product verification. In other words, an assessment must be made as to whether the final product complies with requirements and that it conforms to the requirements described in the Module B certification process. For this purpose, it is necessary to carry out a visit to monitor production batch by batch, during which a random sample is taken to test its conformity, and other requirements if necessary. If the process complies with the certification re-quirements, the batches of product declared compliant can be marked with the Ships Wheel and installed on a vessel. In this case, the certification expires when all products in the batch have been used up.

On the other hand, it is possible to opt for a Module D cer-tification process based on quality assurance. The Notified Body assesses the quality management system applied to the product being certified through an on-site audit of the production process. The company must carry out checks at the beginning, middle and end of the production pro-cess to verify that the product complies with international requirements and in particular with safety aspects. The cer-tificate will be valid for three years, although a re-evaluation audit will be carried out annually. Through this certification process, the entire production of certified product may be

Figure 1: IMO/rail panel equipment.

41


marked with the Ship’s Wheel rather than being limited to batches.

All certificates issued by Notified Bodies for marine equipment in Europe must be registered on the MarED database. The in-formation is public and gives visibility to the companies that comply with the requirements.

Once the B+F or B+D certification has been obtained, the company must complete the EU Declaration of Conformity, which is an essential document, together with the certificates and labelling required before marketing the product.

AITEX as a testing laboratory

Independently of certification, AITEX acts as a testing labora-tory. The tests are part of the technical documentation to be provided in the certification process.

Depending on the marine equipment concerned, it must com-ply with fire safety requirements and follow the guidelines of Implementing Regulation (EU) 2020/1170.

Most of the tests are described in the “International Code for the Application of Fire Test Procedures”, 2010 (PEF Code, 2010), adopted by the IMO Maritime Safety Committee (MSC)

by resolution MSC.307(88). This is a mandatory instrument un-der Chapter II-2 of the SOLAS Convention containing descrip-tions of the testing process itself and establishing procedures for the type approval and case-by-case approval of materials, components and structures for marine use.

It contains the test procedures, acceptance criteria and clas-sification of some of the marine equipment that AITEX is ap-proved to test, such as:

• Non-combustibility test: identifies products that gene-rate only a very small amount of heat and flame when exposed to temperatures of approximately 750ºC.

• Smoke production test: a method for measuring the smoke produced by the exposed surface of samples of essentially flat materials, composites or assemblies when placed horizontally and subjected to specified levels of radiant heat in an enclosed cabinet with or without the application of flame.

• Smoke toxicity production test: measurement of gases re-leased in fire exposure/smoke accumulation tests using the Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) technique. Combustion produces other effluents such as particulates, fumes and vapours that may be toxic, and some gases.

• Surface flammability test: measurement of the fire per-formance characteristics of bulkhead, ceiling and deck finishing materials and primary deck coatings to deter-mine their flammability and their suitability for use in shi-pbuilding.

• Test of vertically laid textiles and films: fire test to deter-mine whether textiles and films mainly used as curtains and hanging ornaments meet the requirements for resis-tance to flame spread and propagation.

• Upholstered furniture test: evaluation of the flammabili-ty of combinations of materials, such as those used to cover and stuff upholstered furniture, when accidentally encountering a lit cigarette or match, as can happen with upholstered seating.

• Testing of bedding articles: determination of the flam-mability of bedding articles exposed to small smoulde-ring or burning sources of ignition.

All the tests carried out by AITEX are ENAC approved.

In conclusion, AITEX is a Notified Body and independent test-ing laboratory, approved to guarantee the suitability and com-pliance of various articles of marine equipment, as well as fire safety in general.

If you are interested in the certification of marine equip-ment, or any other fire performance certification, contact AITEX at www.aitex.es.

Figure 2: the calorimetric cone for fire safety tests on railway equip-ment.

42

_research

AITEX Eco-processes, Cosmetics and Health Research Group

High added-value solutions based on functionalisation and active product development for the cosmetics and textile sector

The four-year FUN@CTIVE project, launched in September 2018, focuses on the research and development of high add-ed value solutions by incorporating new functional materials of natural and synthetic origin using sustainable technologies for the cosmetics and textile industry sectors. The project will research and develop new functional, effective products which are also sustainable and ecological. The project is supported and financed by the Centre for the Development of Industri-al Technology - CDTI within the framework of the CIEN Pro-gramme.

The consortium of partners is made up of eight Spanish com-panies from both the textile and cosmetics sectors: UNITEX, TORRECID and TEJIDOS ELÁSTICOS LLOVERAS from the textile sector; and the cosmetics companies MONTIBELLO, NATURAL SOLTER, BREVIA, BIO-PARTNER and CARINSA. In addition, to reinforce the research work, the project has the col-laboration of three research centres and universities: AITEX, as research centre for the textile and cosmetics sector, the Univer-sity of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and EURECAT (figure 1).

The FUN@CTIVE project enables synergies between the textile and cosmetics industries, two sectors with various points of convergence and union, both through the use of coloured raw materials and the joint development of new products in the field of cosmetotextiles (figure 2).

COLOUR: natural dyes from natural extracts and algae

Part of the research is focusing on the possibilities offered by various natural dyes and pigments useful in the development of dyes, printing pastes and ink formulations as an alternative to current synthetic solutions.

The research work carried out in the early stages of the project has identified various sources of natural origin from which it is possible to extract colouring substances covering a range of colours (table 1).

COLOURINGSOURCE OF ORIGIN

PLANT ALGAE

Yellows Reseda luteola

Terminalia chebulaPunica granatum

Dunaliella salina

Reds/OrangesRubia tinctorumAcacia catechu

Bixa orellana

Porphyridium cruentum

Hydropuntia cornea

Blues/VioletsIndigofera tinctoria

Haematoxylum campechianum

Arthrospira platensis Nostoc

Anabaena

Blacks (charcoal) -

Table 1: plant and algae species investigated as a source of natural colourants.

Figure 1: consortium of companies participating in the FUN@CTIVE project.

Figure 2: synergies between the lines of work and the sectors involved.

43


The use of natural dyes has certain limitations that are intrin-sic to their origin, such as their relatively low affinity for textile fibres, a chromatic performance that is often dependent on the pH of the medium (due to the poor stability of the chromophore groups) or the need to prepare concentrations using extraction to enhance their purity (figure 3).

During FUN@CTIVE, the different partners are working on the development and optimisation of processes that provide so-lutions to these limitations, leading to quality coloured textile products (figure 4).

Firstly, research was conducted into different combinations of natural dyes with mordants and antioxidants to improve stabil-ity and increase their affinity for textile fibres.

At the same time, the behaviour of natural colours against pH variation has been studied, obtaining promising results regard-ing the use of acid and alkaline compounds as colour modu-lating factors, as well as stable colours in pH ranges that are compatible with different textile processes.

Finally, research is being carried out into different treatments prior to dyeing, rotary printing and digital printing that signifi-cantly improve washing and rubbing fastness.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: active ingredients from plant and algae extracts

In addition to research into natural dyes, the Fun@ctive pro-ject concentrates on selecting and obtaining active ingredients from micro-macroalgae and other natural sources.

Cosmetics with natural active ingredients are becoming more and more popular and important in the cosmetics, as consum-ers are increasingly attracted by the richness of products of natural origin. Moreover, in a society that is becoming more aware of environmental protection and concerned about sus-tainable development, natural cosmetics is a personal care op-tion that respects the environment throughout the production and manufacturing process.

As previously indicated, macro- and microalgae are also a source of bioactive compounds of great interest in the nutra-

_inves'gación

Figura 1. Cul3vo de microalgas en bioreactores en las instalaciones del Banco Español de Algas (BEA).

El uso de colorantes naturales 'ene una serie de limitaciones que son intrínsecas a su origen, como son la rela'va baja afinidad por las fibras tex'les, un comportamiento cromá'co muchas veces dependiente del pH del medio (por la baja estabilidad de los grupos cromóforos) o la necesidad de concentrarlos para aumentar su pureza mediante métodos extrac'vos. Durante el desarrollo del proyecto FUN@CTIVE los diferentes socios están trabajando en el desarrollo y op'mización de aquellos procesos que permiten solventar dichas limitaciones y obtener productos tex'les coloreados de calidad (figura 2).

En primer lugar, se han inves'gado diferentes combinaciones de colorantes naturales con mordientes y an'oxidantes para estabilizarlos e incrementar su afinidad por las fibras tex'les.

Por otro lado, se ha estudiado el comportamiento de los colorantes naturales frente a la variación de pH, obteniéndose resultados prometedores respecto al uso de compuestos ácidos y alcalinos como factores moduladores del color, así como colores estables en rangos de pH que son compa'bles con diferentes procesos tex'les.

Finalmente, se están inves'gando diferentes tratamientos previos a la coloración por la vía de la 'ntura, la estampación rota'va y la estampación digital que mejoran significa'vamente las solideces al lavado y al frote.

Figure 3: microalgae cultivation in bioreactors at the Spanish Algae Bank (BEA) facilities.

_inves'gación

Figura 2. Diferente comportamiento del colorante logwood en medio ácido o básico (izquierda); gama de tejidos con

diferentes preparaciones y estampados digitalmente, con 3nta formulada en base a colorante natural, y sólidos al lavado domés3co (derecha).

ACTIVOS: principios ac7vos de extractos de vegetales y algas.

Además de la inves'gación de los colorantes naturales, en el proyecto Fun@c've se concentra la selección y obtención de ac'vos procedentes de micro-macroalgas y otras fuentes naturales.

Los cosmé'cos con ac'vos naturales son cada vez más frecuentes y están entrando con más fuerza en el sector cosmé'co, ya que cada día los consumidores se sienten más atraídos por la riqueza de los productos de origen natural. Además, en una sociedad cada vez más concienciada con el mantenimiento del medio ambiente y el desarrollo sostenible, los cosmé'cos naturales son una opción de cuidado personal respetuosa con el entorno durante todo su proceso de obtención y fabricación.

Como se ha indicado previamente, macro- y microalgas son también fuente de compuestos bioac'vos con gran interés en la industria nutracéu'ca, farmacéu'ca, biomédica o cosmé'ca. Por tanto, en el proyecto se han caracterizado y valorado nuevas especies desde el punto de vista de la producción en sistemas de cul'vo bajo condiciones controladas, se ha valorado la producción de metabolitos con interés potencial desde el punto de vista biotecnológico.

Durante el desarrollo del proyecto, se ha iden'ficado y seleccionado un grupo de 10 especies de macro-, microalgas y cianobacterias para afrontar los obje'vos planteados en el presente proyecto (tabla 2).

_inves'gación

Figura 2. Diferente comportamiento del colorante logwood en medio ácido o básico (izquierda); gama de tejidos con

diferentes preparaciones y estampados digitalmente, con 3nta formulada en base a colorante natural, y sólidos al lavado domés3co (derecha).

ACTIVOS: principios ac7vos de extractos de vegetales y algas.

Además de la inves'gación de los colorantes naturales, en el proyecto Fun@c've se concentra la selección y obtención de ac'vos procedentes de micro-macroalgas y otras fuentes naturales.

Los cosmé'cos con ac'vos naturales son cada vez más frecuentes y están entrando con más fuerza en el sector cosmé'co, ya que cada día los consumidores se sienten más atraídos por la riqueza de los productos de origen natural. Además, en una sociedad cada vez más concienciada con el mantenimiento del medio ambiente y el desarrollo sostenible, los cosmé'cos naturales son una opción de cuidado personal respetuosa con el entorno durante todo su proceso de obtención y fabricación.

Como se ha indicado previamente, macro- y microalgas son también fuente de compuestos bioac'vos con gran interés en la industria nutracéu'ca, farmacéu'ca, biomédica o cosmé'ca. Por tanto, en el proyecto se han caracterizado y valorado nuevas especies desde el punto de vista de la producción en sistemas de cul'vo bajo condiciones controladas, se ha valorado la producción de metabolitos con interés potencial desde el punto de vista biotecnológico.

Durante el desarrollo del proyecto, se ha iden'ficado y seleccionado un grupo de 10 especies de macro-, microalgas y cianobacterias para afrontar los obje'vos planteados en el presente proyecto (tabla 2).

Figure 4: different results of logwood dye in acid or basic medium (top); range of fabrics with different preparations, digitally printed with ink made from natural dye, wash-fastness in a domestic washing cycle (bottom).

44

ceutical, pharmaceutical, biomedical and cosmetic industries. Therefore, the project has characterised and assessed new species from the point of view of production in cultivation sys-tems under controlled conditions and has assessed the pro-duction of metabolites of potential biotechnological interest.

During the development of the project, a group of 10 species of macro-, microalgae and cyanobacteria have been identi-fied and collected to meet the objectives set out in the project (table 2).

BIOACTIVE ASSETS

SOURCE PROPERTIES

Euglena cantabrica (euglenoid microalgae)

Antioxidants, polyphenols, beta-glucans

Chrysoreinhardia giraudii(microalgae pelagophyta)

Carotenoids, fatty acids, carbohydrates, antioxidant

Rhodosorus marinus(microalgae rhodophyte)

Phycoerythrin, carbohydrates, antioxidant

Halochlorella rubescens(chlorophyte microalgae) Carotenoids, antioxidants

Isochrysis galbana(microalgae haptophyta) Carotenoids, antioxidants, fatty acids

Hydropuntia cornea(macroalgae)

Carbohydrates , polyunsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants

Arthrospira platensis Carbohidratos, ácidos grasos poliinsaturados y antioxidantes

Arthrospira platensis Pycocyanin; other relevant metabolites (antioxidants)

Dunaliella salina Carotenoids, antioxidants

Table 2: micro- and macroalgae selected as sources of natural assets.

The potential beneficial properties for skin and hair, such as antibacterial and antiviral activity, antioxidative, regenerative, moisturising and photoprotective properties have been studied for the above-mentioned marine species to obtain functional-ised cosmetic formulations, wipes and cosmetotextiles.

As regards antioxidant activity, the anti-ageing potential of the extracts was evaluated by in vitro studies of their efficacy in protecting against general oxidation, with very promising re-sults, since they can be used as cell protectors against the appearance of free radicals or substances capable of forming them (table 3).

ANTI-OXIDANT ACTIVITY

SPECIES ANTIOXIDANT SPECIFICITY (%)

Chrysoreinhardia Giraudii 75.5

Isochrysis galbana 0.0

Rhodosorus marinus 57.6

Porphyridium Cruentum 57.6

Table 3: antioxidant activity of extracts of Chrysoreinhardia giraudii, Isochrysis galbana, Rhodosorus marinus and Phorphyridium cruen-tum. An extract is considered to have antioxidant action with values above 50%.

There is a link between sun protection processes and the action of substances with antioxidant capacity. Ultraviolet radiation in-

duces the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with a high oxidative effect on living organisms. Algal metabolites with anti-oxidant activity such as carotenoids, phycobiliproteins, polyphenols, etc. help to combat the effect of these ROS by absorbing UV radiation, preventing its effects.

Due to the great interest in these metabolites in cosmetic prod-ucts, the Fun@ctive project has selected algae species rich in compounds that act as UV radiation filters and with a high antioxidant capacity, such as micro- and macroalgae rich in carotenoids, for incorporation into different cosmetic matrices and to study their functionality as sun protection enhancers (figure 5 and table 4).

_inves'gación

Existe una relación entre los procesos de fotoprotección y la acción de las sustancias con capacidad an'oxidante. La radiación ultravioleta induce la producción de las especies de oxígeno reac'vo (ROS) con un alto efecto oxidante en los organismos vivos. Los metabolitos de algas con ac'vidad an'oxidante como los carotenoides, ficobiliproteínas, polifenoles, etc. ayudan a comba'r el efecto de estos ROS absorbiendo radiación UV, evitando así el efecto de la radiación UV.

Por tanto, debido al gran interés que presentan estos metabolitos para la formulación de productos cosmé'cos, en el proyecto Fun@c've se ha llevado a cabo la selección de aquellas especies de algas ricas en compuestos que actúen como filtros de la radiación UV y con una alta capacidad an'oxidante, como por ejemplo, micro- y macroalgas ricas en carotenoides para su incorporación en diferentes matrices cosmé'cas y estudiar su funcionalidad como potenciadores de la protección solar (figura 3 y tabla 4).

Figura 3. Crema solar con extracto de Halochlorela rubescens.

Tabla 4. Gráfica de barras que representa el incremento en el valor del factor de protección solar (SPF) tras la incorporación del extracto de Halochlorela rubescens.

This project is funded by the Centre for the Development of In-dustrial Technology (CDTI), through the CIEN Strategic Projects Programme.


Table 4: bar graph showing the increase in sun protection factor (SPF) value after the addition of Halochlorella rubescens extract.

_research

Figure 5: sun cream with Halochlorela rubescens extract.

45


46

AITEX Technical Fibres and Textile Materials Research group

Modelling thermal and electrical transport mechanisms in compounds and fibres

Graphene - a two-dimensional allotrope of carbon - has been the subject of much research in the field of polymeric com-posites, as highlighted in the majority of articles studying com-pounds or fibres made of carbon nanocomposites.

Its peculiar and extraordinary properties have generated ex-citement and interest in equal measure since 2010, when it was the main reason for the researchers who succeeded in isolating winning the Nobel Prize for Physics. A torrent of new applications flooded in, thanks to the immense capacity of this material to conduct electricity, making it ideal for supercapaci-tors, batteries, flexible touch screens and of course, conduc-tive textile fibres.

However, so far it has not been possible to develop a qualita-tive or quantitative mathematical model of the interaction be-tween the polymer matrix and the graphene particles, mean-ing that advances in the field have come from an empirical rather than a theoretical perspective. This lack of knowledge about how the structure of these materials is formed, and the inability to predict the properties of the products obtained from them hinders the growth and development of these ap-plications.

Background

The potential of graphene as a basis for a new generation of products, such as flexible electronic components and ICT ap-plications has been sufficiently demonstrated by a wide range of prototypes. However, in all these applications, the graphene used is a single layer produced via CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition), which is defect-free and perfectly designed for the purpose, as opposed to multilayer, defective graphene, which would generally be used in graphene-composite fibres, with various applications in the car industry or in smart textiles. The reason? A cost difference of up to 100 times less which, taking into account the quantities that would be necessary to achieve acceptable results, would make any fibre using graphene ob-tained through CVD unaffordable.

From a practical point of view, and in order to be able to commit to the stable industrial-scale production of these products, it is vital to understand the behaviour of this “defective graphene” and its interaction within a polymer matrix typically used in the textile sector. This knowledge is, to date, virtually non-existent. The technology is still in its infancy, making it difficult to estab-lish knowledge objectives. Progress is being made on what ex-ists to date, while new heights are being reached in the produc-tion of the material, making it more reliable, better defined and

more cost effective, totally modifying the roadmaps of applied research in this field.

Objectives

The main objective of the GRASAGE project is to build a model describing the orientation and interactions of defective gra-phene with the polymer structure and to predict the electrical and thermal conductivity properties of the resulting fibre based on processing parameters and starting materials (polymer, type of graphene, amount of graphene, etc.). This will help overcome the lack of knowledge that is currently hindering the development and deployment of graphene-loaded fibres as a real and applicable technology.

The following issues will be investigated in depth:

1. How do physical and/or chemical interactions between graphene nano-layers and the polymer matrix influence interlayer properties at the nano- and micro-scale?

2. What correlations can be identified between the intrin-sic properties of the graphene used and the results ob-

_inves'gación

Figura 1. SEM (imagen por microscopio electrónico) de las par>culas de grafeno.

• Obje'vos

El principal obje'vo del proyecto GRASAGE es construir un modelo capaz de describir la orientación y las interacciones del grafeno defec'vo con la estructura del polímero y predecir las propiedades de conduc'vidad eléctrica y térmica de la fibra creada en base a parámetros de proceso y materiales de par'da (polímero, 'po de grafeno, can'dad de éste, etc.), de forma que se pueda superar esa falta de conocimiento que dificulta el desarrollo y el asentamiento de las fibras con cargas de grafeno como una tecnología real y aplicable.

Se inves'gará en profundidad las siguientes cues'ones:

1. ¿De qué forma las interacciones ^sicas y/o químicas entre las nanocapas de grafeno yla matriz polimérica influyen en las propiedades intercapa a escala nano y micro?

2. ¿Qué correlaciones se pueden iden'ficar entre las propiedades intrínsecas del grafeno usado y los resultados observados a escala macroscópica, tanto del compound como de las fibras?

3. ¿Como afecta los diversos procesos presentes en las propiedades tanto del compound como de las fibras?

• Desarrollo

Primeramente, se perfila una matriz de experimentos adecuada en base a lo que se esperaba obtener, se seleccionaron dos 'pos de par>culas de grafeno (nanoplatelets) en función de sus caracterís'cas ^sicas y químicas, de modo que aporten las mejores propiedades posibles al hilo finalmente producido.

De esta forma, se ob'enen diferentes compounds con nanocargas de grafeno variando tanto la concentración másica (de 5% a 1%) de éste en el polímero como la matriz polimérica usada (PP - Polipropileno o PA6 – Poliamida 6). Éstos son caracterizados a través de un ensayo

Figure 1: SEM (electron microscope image) of graphene particles.

_research

47

served on a macroscopic scale of both the compound and the fibres?

3. How do the various processes present affect the prop-erties of both compound and fibres?

Development

Firstly, a suitable experimental matrix is outlined based on what was expected to be obtained, two types of graphene particles (nanoplatelets) were selected for their physical and chemical characteristics, which confer the optimum properties on the resulting yarn.

The result was different compounds with differing graphene loads, varying both the mass concentration (from 5% to 1%) of graphene in the polymer and the polymer matrix used (PP - Polypropylene or PA6 - Polyamide 6). These are charac-terised using a “filter test”, which determines their viability and behaviour as a raw material in the monofilament and multifilament spinning processes, as well as providing infor-mation about the dispersion of the carbonaceous particles in the polymer.

After these tests, various monofilaments are spun with differ-ent stretching ratios, an essential parameter in the process, to study the effect it has on the final thermal and electrical con-ductivity properties of the filament. The final step is to measure the electrical conductivity of the yarn to test whether the correct dispersion of the graphene has been obtained to improve the conductive properties of the yarn.

In parallel to this work, computational simulations are run, taking as starting data those obtained from the characteri-sation of these compounds (dispersion and density) and of the monofilament samples (electrical and thermal con-ductivity), analysing how the nano-loads added affect the properties of the initial polymer. The results of these simu-lations allow predictions of the characteristics of the final product from the initial values such as the properties of the graphene, the polymer used, the parameters of the spin-ning process, etc.

Later, having identified particle dispersion as the critical point for obtaining a significant improvement in the conduc-tive properties, new compounds were produced via another method of adding the graphene by using organic solvents in which the nanoparticles are dispersed. It is hoped that a much more homogeneous distribution of the nanoplatelets will result, giving superior results to those obtained for previ-ous generation yarns.

As a last line of research, together with this last batch of com-pounds, further samples are made where the polymeric ma-trix is changed from single (PP or PA6) to double (a mixture of 80% PP and 20% PA6). The aim of this modification is to create “preferential paths” of graphene nanoparticles within the fibres,

creating a network that substantially enhances the conductive properties.

The same tests carried out on the compounds and fibres pro-duced in the first part of the project are carried out to charac-terise those produced in the second part, enabling a global comparison to be made taking into account a wide range of parameters.

Results

With regard to the first samples, the values observed for all the samples taken are, at least, correct. The use of the quali-fier “satisfactory” is to be avoided, since although the values of electrical and thermal conductivities have clearly increased, they have not reached levels to be considered capable of de-veloping robust applications. The effect of spinning process parameters such as the drafting ratio and the effect of the use of graphene of different characteristics have been identified and discerned.

The simulations have greatly helped our understanding of the different phenomena observed, and to act accordingly to re-move various obstacles to the development of composite ma-terials through the addition of graphene nano-loads.

Conclusions

Although the data are not very encouraging and in fact sug-gest that we look in a different direction, we have been able to identify different determining points for the progress of the technology and its consequent success, which indicates that other aspects need to be studied before the process can be fully consolidated and reach an optimum level of de-velopment.

Certain lines, in particular PP/PA6 fibres, require much further development, and there are high hopes that they will enable a leap in quality and the first basis for establishing a viable con-ductive fibre reality alongside graphene.

This project is supported by the Programa Estatal de Investiga-ción, Desarrollo e Innovación Orientada a los Retos de la Socie-dad, within the framework of the Plan Estatal de Investigación Científica y Técnica y de Innovación 2013-2016 (State Plan for Scientific and Technical Research and Innovation 2013-2016).

Grant number: PCI2018-093176


48

_research

AITEX Technical Fibres and Textile Materials Research Group

Research into post-consumer PET spinning processes for the manufacture of 100% recyclable carpets

Background

The demand for polyester has increased over the years to the point where it has become the most sought-after fibre in the textile sector, and this growth is expected to continue in the coming years. This also means that the vast majority of waste is made of polyester, adding hugely to environmental pollution.

Objectives

The core objective of the ECORUG project is to create 100% recyclable carpets and rugs made of polyester materials, which can be recycled by mechanical shredding without the need to separate the different components that make up the carpet.

The objectives of the ECORUG project were as follows:

• Functionalisation of polymers for the improvement of material properties.

• Multifilament spinning of selected materials.• BCF Texturising in search of the best physical properties

of the multifilaments.• Use of commercially available sustainable materials that

increase the durability and recyclability with which to produce carpet prototypes.

• Manufacture of prototypes for testing the final article.• Substitution of latex with other from the polyether family

to increase recyclability.• Dissemination of the results obtained throughout the

project.• Transfer of the results obtained in the project to compa-

nies in the sector.

Development

This article describes the tasks involved in the production of 100% recyclable carpets without the need for separation of components.

Various polyester materials were additivated, spun and textur-ised to manufacture the prototypes.

The following base materials were used:

• PET• rPET• PBT• BioPBS• Low-melt Polyester• TPE

In addition, formulations were developed using a combination of recycled and virgin material to observe the behaviour and properties of the different mixtures.

• rPET + PET formulations• rPET + PET + Compatibiliser formulations

Multifilament yarns were spun from the various materials mentioned above, with their main purpose being to form the carpet pile. These multifilaments were then texturised using the BCF (Bulk Continuous Filament) technique, to create high-count yarns, which are ideal for carpet manufacture. Other multifilament yarns with different characteristics have been developed as substitutes for the latex usually used in this kind of products.

Finally, the prototypes were manufactured using tufting tech-nology. The developments of the previous processes were used to make both the carpet pile and the adhesive to replace latex.

At each stage until the final prototypes were obtained, analyses and characterisations of the chippings, yarns and prototypes were carried out.

Figure 1: prototype of a three-colour carpet with different yarns.

Inves&gación de los procesos de hilatura de PET postconsumo para la fabricación de moquetas 100% reciclables

Grupo de Inves-gación en Fibras Técnicas y Materiales Tex-les de AITEX

ANTECEDENTES La demanda de fibras de poliéster se ha ido incrementando con el paso de los años hasta llegar a conver-rse en el -po de fibra más demandado en el sector tex-l y se -ene la previsión de que este crecimiento con-núe los próximos años. Este hecho también provoca que la gran mayoría de residuos sean de este -po de material, lo que favorece en gran medida a la contaminación del entorno.

Figura 1: Proto-po de alfombra tricolor con diversos hilos

OBJETIVOS El obje-vo principal del proyecto ECORUG ha sido obtener alfombras y moquetas reciclables 100% formadas por materiales de la familia de los poliésteres, capaces de reciclarse mediante trinchado mecánico sin la necesidad de tener que separar los diferentes componentes que la forman.

Los obje-vos marcados en el proyecto ECORUG fueron los siguientes:

• Funcionalización de polímeros para la mejora de las propiedades de los materiales.

• Hilatura mul-filamento de las materias seleccionadas.

• Texturizado por BCF en busca de las mejores propiedades Wsicas de los mul-filamentos.

• Empleo de materiales sostenibles comerciales mediante los cuales fabricar proto-pos de alfombras queincrementen la durabilidad y la reciclabilidad de las muestras.

• Fabricación de los proto-pos para poder realizar diferentes ensayos sobre el arXculo final.

• Sus-tución del látex por otros de la familia de los poliésteres para incrementar su reciclabilidad.

• Difusión de los resultados obtenidos a lo largo del proyecto.

• Transferencia de los resultados obtenidos en el proyecto a las empresas del sector.

49


Results

In order to obtain prototype carpets and rugs manufactured entirely from polyester family materials, various formulations have been developed based on a combination of PET and rPET pellets.

A) Pellets

The study of the different pellets and their formulations has given us a greater understanding of the behaviour of the mate-rials at certain temperatures, as well as their physical and ther-mal properties. The influence that the percentage of recycled material has on each of the formulations processed was also revealed: better characteristics in those mixtures with a lower amount of recycled material was observed, since the repro-cessing that a recycled material undergoes affects the basic properties of the processed material.

B) Multifilament yarns

The multifilament spinning plant was used to obtain yarns from each of the materials and formulations used in the compound-ing phase. After the characterisation of the fibres, it is observed that the formulations of (PET+rPET) and (PET + rPET + Com-patibiliser) do not vary significantly from each other in terms of tensile strength and elongation. It should be noted that the degrees sought are relatively high, since carpet manufacture requires good performance and a density that meets the tech-nical requirements.

C) Texturised yarns

Texturising was performed using false-twist texturing or Drawn Textured Yarn (DTY) and Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF). The majority of the research has been carried out using BCF, as this is the technology used in the texturising of carpet yarns and the results obtained are significantly better.

For texturising, a grouping of multifilament yarns was drawn up to obtain final yarns with a high count (between 1,500 - 3,000

dtex), which gives greater resistance to the whole and favours fibre bulking which creates a better finish on the final proto-types.

D) Prototypes

The texturised yarns obtained in the previous process were combined with commercial yarns, to make the prototypes. Each of the compounding formulations were processed to achieve the manufacture of the carpet pile.

Another purpose given to materials such as TPE and low-melt-ing point polyester is to use them as substitutes for the latex normally used in prototypes. This process is the most complex, as it requires finding a material which when melted, integrates well into the assembly and fixes the pile to the backing. Further work is still needed to achieve optimum bonding, but signifi-cant progress has been made.

The prototypes were characterised to ensure that tufting and shape recovery are of sufficient quality and that pile strength is optimum.

DESARROLLO

En el presente arXculo se describen las tareas desarrolladas para la fabricación de alfombras de 100% reciclables sin necesidad de separación de componentes.

Se han empleado diversos materiales pertenecientes a la familia del poliéster para la fabricación de los proto-pos. Estas materias han sido adi-vadas, hiladas y texturizadas para finalmente fabricar las alfombras. Se ha trabajado con los siguientes materiales base: • PET

• rPET

• PBT

• BioPBS • Low Melt Polyester

• TPE

Además, se han desarrollado formulaciones empleando una combinación de materia reciclada y virgen con el fin de observar el comportamiento y las propiedades de las diferentes mezclas. • Formulaciones rPET + PET

• Formulaciones rPET + PET + Compa&bilizante

Seguidamente, se han obtenido hilos mul-filamento empleando las diversas materias citadas anteriormente. La finalidad principal de estos hilos es la de formar el pelo de la alfombra. Con estos mul-filamentos, posteriormente texturizados empleando la técnica BCF (Bulk Con-nuous Filament), se han obtenido hilos de gran Xtulo, óp-mos para la fabricación de alfombras. Otros hilos mul-filamento producidos, con caracterís-cas diferentes, se han trabajado para u-lizarlos como sus-tu-vos al látex que se gasta habitualmente en esta clase de productos.

Por úl-mo, la fabricación de los proto-pos se ha llevado a cabo empleando la tecnología tu\ing. Los desarrollos obtenidos en los procesos anteriores han sido empleados para la realización tanto del pelo de la alfombra como de adhesivo sus-tu-vo del látex.

En cada uno de los procesos realizados hasta la consecución de los proto-pos finales, se han realizado análisis y caracterizaciones de las granzas, hilos y proto-pos.

Figura 2: Bobinas de hilo empleadas en los proto-posFigure 2: bobbins used in the prototypes.

Este proyecto cuenta con el apoyo de la Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Valenciana, a través del IVACE, y está cofinaciado por los fondos FEDER de la UE, dentro del Programa Operativo FEDER de la Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.

Figura 3:Proto-po final de alfombra fabricada en el proyecto ECORUGFigure 3: final prototype of the carpet produced in the ECORUG project.

This project is supported by the Conselleria d’Economia Sosteni-ble, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Va-lenciana, through IVACE, and is co-financed by EU ERDF funds, within the Operational Programme ERDF of the Comunitat Valen-ciana 2014-2020.

Grant number: IMDEEA/2020/21

50

_research


Development of functionalised polyamide fibres from recycled fishing nets

Motivation

Growing environmental awareness is driving the market to-wards the use of reused or recycled materials, and the emer-gence and use of recycled polyamide is a challenge that must be overcome by companies and one which presents opportu-nities for the emerging circular economy.

Objectives

The overall objective of the project is to develop new textile yarns from recycled polyamide fibres sourced from fishing nets, which has been functionalised and blended with natural fibres for technical applications.

During the project, different spinning tests were carried out with a range of raw materials, compositions (blends with cotton, recycled cotton and wool) and percentages, developing new sustainable fabrics with properties that compete with commer-cially available textile products on the market. The goal of the project is to develop products with similar properties to those already on the market today, but obtained from recycled poly-amide, which means a high added value in terms of sustain-ability and circular economy of the product.

The specific objectives of this project are as follows:

• New formulations based on recycled PA with additives: UV (improves the resistance of the materials), UPF (pro-tects the skin from ultraviolet rays), FR (slows down flame propagation), FIR (reflects far infrared waves emit-ted by the body, providing therapeutic effects to the

cells), NI (releases negative ions with numerous benefits for the body).

• Optimise the multifilament spinning process using recy-cled polyamide to achieve the best possible mechanical properties.

• Developing different sections in the fibre to provide new properties to these functionalised fibres (trilobal, multi-lobal cross sections, etc.).

• Develop new functionalised open-end yarns from blends of recycled PA and natural fibres (recycled cotton and wool).

• Manufacture fabrics from the fibres developed for techni-cal applications: sportswear, personal protective equip-ment (PPE), carpets and rugs, etc.

• Disseminate and transfer the results of the project to manufacturing companies in the sectors involved and to the public according to the dissemination and transfer plans described.

Results

The MARNET project has achieved highly innovative results, as sustainable fabrics have been developed for the circular economy, oriented towards technical applications and ob-tained from functional yarns made from recycled polyamide (rPA) and natural fibre blends. The fabrics incorporate new functionalities such as a flame-retardant effect and resistance to ultraviolet rays. In addition, nanometric additives have been added to the recycled polyamide with health benefits to the body by reducing fatigue and providing skin protection against ultraviolet rays.

The technical applications for the MARNET project are mainly aimed at: sports clothing, personal protective equipment (PPE), carpets and rugs, etc. The results obtained are detailed below:

The MARNET project focuses on the development of innovative textile yarns from polyamide fi-bres sourced from recycled fishing nets. These yarns are environmentally respectful and sustain-able, reducing waste produced from the use of fishing nets, and therefore the pollution derived from the accumulation of textile waste. In addition to contributing to the cleanliness of the seas and oceans, the project helps the competitiveness of companies in the Valencian Region, provid-ing new products with greater added value.

Desarrollo de fibras de poliamida funcionalizada a partir del reciclaje de redes de pesca

Grupo de Inves-gación en Fibras Técnicas y Materiales Tex-les de AITEX

El proyecto MARNET se centra en el desarrollo de novedosos hilados tex8les basados en fibras de poliamida, obtenida a par8r del reciclaje de redes de pesca. Estos hilados son medio ambientalmente sostenibles y respetuosos con el entorno, reduciendo residuos producidos a par8r del uso de redes de pesca, y por lo tanto la contaminación derivada de acumulación de residuos tex8les. Además de contribuir a la limpieza de los mares y océanos, favorece la compe88vidad de las empresas de la Comunidad Valenciana, que podrán ofertar nuevos productos de mayor valor añadido.

Mo8vaciones

La creciente concienciación medioambiental por parte de la sociedad está reconduciendo el mercado a la u-lización de materiales reu-lizados o reciclados, por lo que la aparición de la poliamida reciclada es una realidad que debe afrontarse como un reto indispensable para las empresas, promoviendo la economía circular.

Obje8vos

El obje-vo general del proyecto es desarrollar nuevos hilados tex-les a par-r de fibras de poliamida reciclada, obtenida a par-r de redes de pesca, funcionalizada y mezclada con fibras naturales para aplicaciones técnicas.

Durante la ejecución del proyecto se han realizado dis-ntas pruebas de hilatura con diversas materias primas, composiciones (mezclas con algodón, algodón reciclado y lana) y porcentajes, desarrollándose nuevos tejidos sostenibles con propiedades capaces de compe-r con los productos tex-les existentes en el mercado actual. El obje-vo final del proyecto es conseguir productos con propiedades similares a los que ya se comercializan hoy en día, pero en este caso obtenidos a par-r de poliamida reciclada, lo que supone un elevado valor añadido en cuanto a sostenibilidad y economía circular del producto.

Los obje-vos específicos planteados para este proyecto se pueden definir en:

• Obtener nuevas formulaciones en base PA reciclada con adi-vos: UV (mejora la resistencia de losmateriales a los rayos ultravioleta), UPF (protege la piel de los rayos ultravioleta), FR (retrasa elavance de la llama), FIR (refleja las ondas infrarrojas lejanas que emite el cuerpo aportando efectosterapéu-cos a las células), NI (libera iones nega-vos produciendo numerosos beneficios para el serhumano).

• Op-mizar el proceso de hilatura mul-filamento por fusión de poliamida reciclada para lograr lasmejores propiedades mecánicas posibles.

• Desarrollar diferentes secciones en la fibra para aportar nuevas propiedades a estas fibrasfuncionalizadas (secciones trilobales, mul-lobales, …).

• Desarrollar nuevos hilados open-end funcionalizados, a par-r de mezclas de PA reciclada y fibrasnaturales (algodón reciclado y lana).

51


New formulations of recycled polyamide with different additives for FR, FIR, IN, UPF, UV. In addition, a detailed thermal characterisation of each has been carried out.

Predicted formulations using stable and efficient compound-ing processes. Each of the samples has been subjected to a rigorous thermal characterisation study, creating an extensive database which has been of enormous use in achieving sub-sequent objectives.

Multifilament yarns by melt spinning recycled polyamide with the different formulations obtained, with excellent mechanical properties.

The most relevant conclusions of this line are:

• Yarns with high mechanical performance by continuous, sta-ble processing

• The properties of the two recycled polyamides studied are similar. It follows that quality yarns can be obtained from pol-yamide from fishing nets, as they have similar characteristics to those of commercial recycled polyamide.

• Stable processing of recycled polyamide yarns functional-ised with different additives with excellent physical and me-chanical properties.

Multifilament fibres with different cross-sections (“TRI-LOBAL” and “C” shaped) with excellent mechanical prop-erties.

The spinning tests carried out using spinnerets with special sections has revealed that the yarn is of lower strength com-pared to those extruded using circular sections. Nevertheless, yarn strength is still high and also provides additional effects such as better moisture management and improved cohesion between cut fibres after spinning open-end yarns.

New open-end yarns from the resulting functionalised polyamide and natural fibres (recycled cotton and wool).

The MARNET project has successfully created yarns from different functionalised recycled polyamide fibres and natu-ral fibres such as recycled cotton and wool. These yarns, despite being composed of recycled materials, are high strength.

Recycled polyamide provides mechanical and abrasion resist-ance, while the natural fibres add comfort and softness to the yarn. In addition, the effect of each of the functionalisation’s added to the polyamide fibres in the compounding process is worth noting.

After characterising the different fabrics, it was concluded that the percentage of recycled polyamide in the blends with natural fibres gives greater resistance to traction and abrasion compared to other synthetic and natural blended yarns on the market.

Demonstrator fabrics from the yarns whose characteris-tics make them ideal for technical applications. In addi-tion, a clothing design has been developed as a proto-type demonstrator.

Different openwork and knitted fabrics have been obtained from the different yarns. The subsequent characterisation of the fabrics revealed their excellent performance against abra-sion, and high resistance to tearing.

The MARNET project has developed a set of demonstrator pro-totypes, focused on the technical applications targeted by the project, which allow a more precise and tangible assessment of the results.

Figure 1: final demonstrator assembly of the MARNET project made from recycled polyamide + 1% NI (Negative Ion Nanoparticles) 50% / 50% recycled cotton.

This project is supported by the Conselleria d’Economia Sosteni-ble, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Va-lenciana, through IVACE, and is co-financed by EU ERDF funds, within the Operational Programme ERDF of the Comunitat Valen-ciana 2014-2020.

Grant number: IMDEEA/2020/8

52

_research

AITEX Eco-processes, Cosmetics and Health Research Group

R&D of compressive garments for the improvement of health in lower limb pathologies

Background

TPTex 2.0 is a continuation of the TPTex project carried out in 2019. Following the excellent results obtained during the previous project, it was decided to continue in this field of research on therapeutic compression garments. TPTex 2.0 is hugely relevant since its aim is to improve the health and quality of life of people who require the use of compression garments.

Specifically, the project focuses on lower limb pathologies such as lipedema. Lipedema occurs in the lower half of the body and is a relatively common yet only recently recognised disease, affecting approximately 20% of women worldwide. Lipedema is the pathological swelling and proliferation of fat cells. The main problem with lipedema is that it does not re-spond to dietary treatments, and compression therapy and physical exercise are the recommended treatments. Com-pression therapy is one of the basic measures used in the conservative treatment of these diseases, as well as other pathologies associated with the circulatory and inflammatory system, which is why the results from the point of view of the compressive textile are useful for research into other patholo-gies such as lymphoedema.

However, compression garments are uncomfortable, as they have poor breathability and are mainly flat knitted garments, which in addition needs to be worn under clothing, even in summer, increasing the discomfort they produce.

In addition, it is important to note that people who need to use compression garments suffer from chronic pathologies and will mostly use this type of garment throughout the day and in a range of situations.

On the other hand, the cost of tailor-made compression gar-ments is high and out of reach of many users, so the project is researching standardisation of sizes, bringing the cost of the garment down and enabling lipedema sufferers to enjoy an improved quality of life.

Objective

The overall objective of the project is to research and develop therapeutic compression garments for use as outdoor cloth-ing for lipedema and lymphedema pathologies, as well as to develop standardised sizes for those suffering from these pathologies following the study of anthropometric measure-ments from an exclusive database of patients. The prototypes have also been validated on expert users. Development of the garments involved work on weaving, finishing processes and garment design.

Results

In the first phase of the project, therapeutic compressive gar-ment structures were developed using straight weft knitting and circular knitting, to improve breathability and comfort.

After laboratory analysis of the physical and comfort proper-ties, the fabrics were defined using the opinion of experts in compression fabrics for lipedema patients.

The prototype compression garments have been developed in different standardised sizes, which required an anthropo-metric study of the measurements of patients suffering from lipedema. Nine sizes have been defined both for the garments developed with straight and circular knitted fabric.

Likewise, from the point of view of design and application, compression garments were developed for lower limb patholo-gies that simulate or replace clothing. Three garment catego-ries have been defined: sport, casual and glam.

The prototypes were validated in the laboratory and by means of a panel of expert users accustomed to wearing compres-sion stockings. The panel evaluated the biomechanical and physiological parameters in patients diagnosed with lipedema before and after the use of the different types of compression stockings developed. The effect of the compression stockings was also evaluated in comparison with patients who do not wear them.

In addition, relevant information was obtained about the needs, requirements and experience with compressive garments for these pathologies through questionnaires to a panel of more than 150 patients with lipedema and lymphedema and a sta-

_inves'gación

I+D de prendas compresivas para la mejora de la salud en patologías de miembros inferiores

Grupo de Inves:gación en Eco-procesos, Cosmé:ca y Salud de AITEX

Antecedentes

El proyecto TPTex 2.0 surge como con'nuación del proyecto TPTex realizado durante la anualidad 2019. Tras los buenos resultados obtenidos durante el proyecto anterior TPTex, se decidió con'nuar en este campo de inves'gación acerca de las prendas de compresión terapéu'cas. TPTex 2.0 es de gran relevancia puesto que su finalidad es mejorar la salud y la calidad de vida de las personas que requieren del uso de prendas compresivas.

Concretamente el proyecto está centrado en patologías de miembro inferior tales como el lipedema. El lipedema sucede en la mitad inferior del cuerpo, y es una patología rela'vamente frecuente y reconocida recientemente como enfermedad, que afecta aproximadamente a un 20% de la población mundial femenina. El lipedema consiste en la inflamación y proliferación patológica de células grasas. El gran problema del lipedema es que no responde a los tratamientos dieté'cos siendo la terapia compresiva y el ejercicio Lsico los principales tratamientos recomendados. La terapia de compresión es una de las medidas básicas empleadas en el tratamiento conservador de dichas enfermedades, así como de otras patologías asociadas al sistema circulatorio e inflamatorio, por ello, los resultados desde el punto de vista del tex'l compresivo sirven para la inves'gación de otras patologías como el linfedema.

Sin embargo, las prendas de compresión generan sensación de disconfort a las pacientes, ya que de por sí, 'enen niveles de transpirabilidad bajos (principalmente las de punto por trama rec'línea-planas) y además deben u'lizar una prenda de ves'r por encima de la compresiva, por lo que se genera mayor disconfort; incluso en verano deben llevar una prenda encima de la compresiva.

Además, es importante comentar que las personas que requieren del uso de prendas de compresión son personas que padecen patologías crónicas y que mayoritariamente u'lizarán este 'po de prendas durante la mayoría de las horas de su vida y por tanto en las diferentes situaciones o ac'vidades de cada persona.

Por otra parte, y teniendo en consideración que el coste de las prendas de compresión que se realizan a medida es bastante elevado y que, por tanto, su compra frecuente no es accesible a la mayor parte de pacientes, en el presente proyecto se inves'ga la estandarización de tallas con la finalidad de facilitar la gama y la adquisición de prendas compresivas para personas con lipedema aportándoles así una mayor calidad de vida.

Obje:vo

El obje'vo general del proyecto consiste en inves'gar y desarrollar prendas terapéu'cas de compresión que sirvan para uso como ves'menta de exterior enfocadas a patología de lipedema y linfedema, así como desarrollar tallas estandarizadas para poblaciones que

53


tistical study among the specific population group. It confirms the dissatisfaction of a large number of those affected with the compressive garments currently available, in addition to ob-taining information on aspects that could be improved in the products.

Conclusions

TPTex 2.0 has created a new concept of therapeutic compres-sive garments for lower limb pathologies. One of the main dis-advantages experienced by lipedema patients concerns the excess heat that compression fabrics trap, especially at certain times of the year, and warmer climates, as the compressive garments are worn under their usual clothing. The project is seeking more comfortable textile structures, and the compres-sion stockings have been designed so that they do not need to be worn under a layer of clothing, but rather the compressive garment itself is used as the outer garment. This new garment concept has been validated and widely accepted by lipedema patients who view the solution as a way of not having to give up therapy.

In addition, lipedema garments are usually made to measure as the anthropometry of the patients does not usually correspond

to a specific pattern. Tailor-made garments are expensive, so the option of having different garments for various times of the year is limited. The fact of standardising sizes, from which the patient can choose depending on the measurements of each area of the leg offers a new alternative to patients, since standardisation reduces manufacturing cost. These garments are not only intended to replace custom-made garments, but rather to complement them by providing patients with a wider range of compressive garments.

Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4: various designs of compression garments obtained with straight weft knitted fabric (1, 2 and 3) and circular knitted fabric (4).

This project is supported by the Conselleria d’Economia Sosteni-ble, Sectors Productius i Treball, through IVACE (Ins- titut Valencià de Competitivitat Empresarial) and is co-financed by EU ERDF funds, within the Programa Operativo FEDER de la Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.

Grant number: IMDEEA/2020/11.

54

_success cases

Development of eco-technical yarns and fabrics for the agricultural sector

TEXTIL VILLA DE PEGO, S.L., in collaboration with AITEX, has carried out a project to develop new products with applications in the agricultural sector, using monofilament and raffia extrusion technology.


Objectives

The main objective of the project is the development of new products using monofilament and raffia extrusion technology for the agricultural sector. The project was divided into 2 lines of work. The first developed high-strength, large diameter monofilament to replace conventional steel wire used in a multitude of applications in the agricultural sector. In order to achieve this objective, thermoplastic materials such as poly-ester (PET) and Biopolyester (BioPET) and recycled polyester (rPET) have been used, which also have a lower environmen-tal impact.

The other line of research consists of obtaining compostable monofilaments and raffia for trellising crops, obtained with compostable materials (PLA and BioPBS), i.e., which after their useful life can be composted and transformed back into usable organic matter under certain temperature and humid-ity conditions. These monofilaments and fabrics will remove the need to separate plastic material from plant material, as they can be taken together to the composting plants, this method being both environmentally friendly and more eco-nomical as it does not require an additional process of sepa-ration of materials.

Advantages of PET vs. steel wire

Does not rust Does not rot Does not harm plants

More flexible Less heat conductivity

Not electrically conductive

Ease of handling Recyclable Resistant to temperature changes

Lighter Easy to transport

Temperature stable(-40 ºc - 70ºc)

No tensioners needed

Allows plants to grow freely Maintenance-free

Compostability of PLA and BioPBS

Composting is a biological, aerobic and thermophilic (temperature raising) process of organic waste decomposition in solid phase and under controlled conditions that transforms organic waste into a stable product.

The end product of composting is a humus-like material from the soil, called compost, which is easy to store and transport and has important agronomic value, mainly due to its content of organic matter and fertilising elements, which is useful in different agricultural activities.

The waste treatment system is a process of obtaining a useful material from a raw material qualified as waste.

55


Experimental development

In order to achieve the objectives set out in the project, experi-mental development work was carried out on the optimisation of the different extrusion parameters depending on the differ-ent materials used and the different applications of each. The method consisted of carrying out preliminary tests at labora-tory level to focus the processing parameters and to be able to scale up the results. Based on the data obtained at laboratory level, which were taken as a starting point, large scale tests were carried out to optimise the process of obtaining monofila-ments and raffia with the optimum characteristics for use.

.

Results

Following the project and as a result of the research work car-ried out with the collaboration of AITEX, it has been possible to optimise the processing parameters of the different materials, PET, BioPET and rPET to obtain large diameter monofilaments, as well as PLA and BioPBS to obtain monofilament and raffia.

DESARROLLO EXPERIMENTAL PROYECTO AGROECOTEX

Poliéster alta tenacidad (HT PET)

Bio Poliéster (BioPET)

Poliéster reciclado (rPET)

PRUEBAS DE LABORATORIO PRUE

BAS

INDU

STRI

ALES

OPTIMIZACIÓN Y ESCALABILIDAD

Poliéster alta tenacidad 3mm diámetro4mm diámetro

Monofilamento de Bio poliéster

Monofilamento de Poliéster reciclado

Ácido Poliláctico(PLA)

BioPBS

Monofilamento PLARafia de PLA

Monofilamento de BioPBS

Textil Villa de Pego (Pego)

Textil Villa de Pego is a Spanish com-pany founded in 1949 to distribute within Spain rayon and paper bags for the fruit, vegetable and seafood industry. Using the latest technology and backed by a highly professional team, we have continued to develop to the point where we can offer our

customers a wide range of products and are now a leading com-pany in the European market, exporting and distributing in Spain woven bags in raffia/monofilament and raffia/raffia, mainly for fruit.The company has long experience in the agro-textile sector, and in the manufacture of monofilaments and raffia and technical fa-brics for the agricultural sector. We are committed to innovation as a tool for continuing to evolve in an increasingly competitive market where differentiation is vital to stand out from the com-petition. We are also committed to the environment and the ma-nufacture of sustainable and environmentally friendly products.

This project has the support of the Centre for the Development of Industrial Technology (CDTI) through the call for grants for R&D projects, in the form of Individual Research and Develop-ment Projects (IDP).

_caso de éxito

TEXTIL VILLA DE PEGO (Pego)

Es una empresa española fundada en 1949 para la distribución dentro de España de sacos de rayón y papel para la industria de frutas, vegetales y mariscos. Usando la úl4ma tecnología y respaldada por un personal altamente profesional, hemos con4nuado desarrollándonos hasta alcanzar una posición líder en el Mercado Europeo, siendo hoy en día grandes exportadores y distribuidores en España de sacos tejidos, en rafia/monofilamento y rafia/rafia, principalmente para frutas.

Figuras 1 y 2. Tejido de Rafia de PLA

Figura 3. Monofilamento de PET HT 3mm Figura 4. Monofilamento de PET HT 4 mm

_caso de éxito





_caso de éxito





_caso de éxito





Figures 1 and 2. PLA raffia fabric.

Figures 3 and 4. PET HT 3mm and 4mm monofilament.

56

_success cases


MCE Mezclas Caucho S.A.U., in collaboration with AITEX, has developed the project “CIRCLE-RUBBER - Research and development of new sustainable rubber formulations through the use of industrial waste”, in which industrial waste is revalued to create sustainable materials.

AITEX Sustainability and Materials Technology Research Group

Introduction

Rubber formulations are complex blends with a large number of components, which vary depending on the final applica-tion of the material. More specifically, tyres and shoe soles are composed of mostly natural rubber, SBR rubber, polybutadiene rubber, NBR, etc. In order to achieve the desired performance, this rubber is blended with reinforcing fillers, processing aids such as activators, antioxidants, anti-ozonants, waxes to fa-cilitate the spreading of the rubber, plasticisers, vulcanising agents, accelerators, pigments, etc.

The rubber market demands sustainable materials for the production of more environmentally friendly products. This is why MCE Mezclas Caucho seeks to meet this need through research into new formulations with a lower environmental im-pact.

Objectives

The main objective of CIRCLE-RUBBER is to develop new sustainable rubber formulations to be used both in the manu-facture of shoe soles and re-treading low-performance agri-cultural tyres. The development of these sustainable materials has focused on the incorporation of industrial waste into the formulations.

On an environmental level, this project aims to contribute to the circular economy by using waste from the footwear and tyre in-dustries as part of the formulation of sustainable raw materials that can be re-used in these two sectors.

In this way, added value is given to sorted waste whose re-cyclability by any other means is not easy and in countless cases ends up in landfill or for energy recovery. By revaluing this waste and incorporating it into the formulation of new sus-

tainable raw materials, the aim is to contribute to maintaining the environment and minimising the volume of waste that is created every day in the world and not properly disposed of.

In addition, products made with the new rubber formulations are more environmentally friendly as they contribute to reduc-ing the amount of virgin raw materials used.

_casos de éxito

Inves&gación y desarrollo de nuevas formulaciones de caucho sostenibles mediante el uso de residuos industriales

Grupo de Inves&gación en Sostenibilidad y Tecnología de Materiales de AITEX

La empresa MCE Mezclas Caucho S.A.U., en colaboración con AITEX ha desarrollado el proyecto “CIRCLE-RUBBER - Inves&gación y desarrollo de nuevas formulaciones de caucho sostenibles mediante el uso de residuos industriales”, en el que se revalorizaan residuos industriales para la creación de materiales sostenibles.

Introducción Las formulaciones de caucho son mezclas complejas con un gran número de componentes, los cuales varían en función de la aplicación final del material. Más concretamente, los neumáBcos y suelas para calzado están compuestos por, mayoritariamente caucho natural, caucho SBR, caucho polibutadieno, NBR, etc. Con tal de conseguir las prestaciones deseadas, este caucho se mezcla con cargas reforzantes, ayudas de proceso Bpo acBvadores, anBoxidantes, anBozonantes, ceras para facilitar la extensión del caucho, plasBficantes, agentes de vulcanización, acelerantes, pigmentos etc.

El mercado del caucho demanda actualmente materiales sostenibles para la elaboración de productos más respetuosos con el medio ambiente. Es por ello por lo que MCE Mezclas Caucho busca cubrir esta necesidad a través de la invesBgación de nuevas formulaciones de menor impacto ambiental.

El mercado solicita materiales sostenibles para la fabricación de suelas para calzado y neumá&cos

Obje&vos El objeBvo principal del CIRCLE-RUBBER es desarrollar nuevas formulaciones de caucho sostenibles para ser uBlizadas tanto en la fabricación de suelas de calzado, como en el recauchutado de neumáBcos agrícolas de bajo requerimiento mecánico. El desarrollo de estos materiales sostenibles se ha enfocado a la incorporación de residuos industriales en las fórmulas.

The market demands sustainable materials for use in the manufacture of shoe soles and tyres.

57


Development

In order to achieve the project objectives, a series of R&D works were planned in different activities according to the project work plan. The research process started with the laboratory-scale formulation of new rubber blends including the selected wastes in different proportions. The formulations were characterised to understand their mechanical proper-ties. By comparing the properties obtained with established requirements, the blends were optimised in a re-engineering process until perfect characteristics were achieved. In addi-tion, characterisation included the analysis of the correct dis-persion and homogenisation of the components of the new blends by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The devel-opment process ended with the industrial scalability study, to ensure the feasibility of manufacturing on the company’s pro-duction equipment, as well as the repeatability of the proper-ties of the new materials.

On the one hand, for the development of formulations for foot-wear, spinning waste and EVA foam in powder form were used.

Output in a reference company engaged in spinning process-es is approximately 600 tonnes per year. A company whose business consists partly of the machining of EVA sheets has an output of 267 tonnes of EVA foam powder per year, which is currently only used for energy recovery. This is just the waste from textile and footwear companies in the province of Alicante, so the supply of materials is fully assured.

On the other hand, the development of formulations for agri-cultural tyres started with the use of waste from scrap tyres for re-treading, as well as textile waste from the shredding of end-of-life tyres. Subsequently, the development team opted to use rubber waste from other stages of tyre shredding, the size of which was more favourable for obtaining mixtures suitable for use in tyre production.

It should be noted that throughout the development process, the suitability of these new sustainable rubber blends has been validated through the development of prototypes, both for ag-ricultural tyres and shoe soles.

Results and conclusions

The results of the R&D carried out during the CIRCLE-RUBBER project include the following:

• Obtaining two technically, economically and environ-mentally validated sustainable rubber formulations suitable for the production of soles for industrially pro-duced footwear, both incorporating 4% of material from industrial waste from the textile/footwear sector. The first of these formulations contains 4% spinning dust residue. The second contains 4% EVA foam powder residue.

• Two technically, economically and environmentally vali-dated sustainable rubber formulations suitable for agri-cultural tyre production at industrial scale, incorporating in both cases 10% of material from industrial waste ob-tained in the recycling process of end-of-life tyres.

In all four cases, optimal solutions have been achieved from the point of view of the circular economy, contributing to the maximum use of resources. In this case, through the recov-ery of materials considered waste, generated within the value chain itself. This has a positive impact on the customers of MCE Mezclas Caucho, who value our efforts to reduce the en-vironmental footprint of our products.

Figures 1 and 2: prototype agricultural tyre made with one of the deve-loped formulations and prototypes of shoe soles made with different developed formulations.

This project is supported by the Centre for the Develop-ment of Industrial Technology (CDTI) through the call for proposals of the Business R&D Plan.


_casos de éxito









desarrolladas.

_casos de éxito









desarrolladas.

MCE, RUBBER MIXTURES, S.A.U. (Aspe)

The rubber manufacturing industry has been calling for environmen-tally friendly solutions for years. MCE, MEZCLAS CAUCHO, S.A.U. has always been committed to sustainability, and the develop-ment of the CIRCLE RUBBER pro-ject allows us to strengthen our

strategic position by offering the market materials with a low environmental impact.

58

_european projects

Digitisation of the Textile Value Chain - DigiTVC

AITEX Smart Textiles and Digitalisation Research GroupDigitalización de la Cadena de Valor Tex4l – DigiTVC Grupo de Inves-gación en Tex-les Inteligentes y Digitalización de AITEX

E l p r o y e c t o D i g i T V C l a n z a u n a convocatoria de pilotos para digitalización de la cadena de valor tex-l. El obje-vo de esta convocator ia es dar apoyo económico a las empresas tex-les para acometer pilotos en los que se digitalicen procesos dentro de la empresa y tengan una repercusión su cadena de valor. Se realizarán varios pilotos en España, Portugal y Francia. En el caso concreto de España, se des-narán 27.000,00€ para la realización de estos pilotos.

La Industria 4.0 y la digitalización representan un reto y una oportunidad para las empresas. Para las pymes del sector tex-l del espacio SUDOE, que en los úl-mos años han sufrido una desaceleración importante, disponer de metodologías y herramientas que les permitan tener un rápido acceso a estas nuevas soluciones puede aportar ese valor añadido diferencial para recuperar la compe--vidad perdida y abordar con éxito sus principales retos: mayor rapidez y flexibilidad, adaptarse a las nuevas demandas del mercado, productos y servicios más personalizados, mayor trazabilidad y especialización y fábricas más eficientes, produc-vas y conectadas.

DigiTVC se centra en apoyar a las pymes mediante un diagnós-co para la digitalización y la realización de pilotos con empresas tex-les en colaboración con start-ups y empresas tecnológicas. Los resultados obtenidos se sistema-zarán para crear un protocolo que permita a las empresas diseñar su estrategia de digitalización u-lizando las tecnologías más adecuadas. La sostenibilidad temporal del proyecto y la adecuación de las necesidades de digitalización de la cadena de valor tex-l, quedarán garan-zadas gracias a la elaboración del protocolo y al acompañamiento de expertos que serán debidamente formados y acreditados por las organizaciones regionales competentes.

Desde el 15 de abril al 17 de mayo se abrirá el periodo en el que las empresas tex-les pueden redactar su memoria de solicitud y enviarla para su evaluación por un comité técnico. El listado de los pilotos seleccionados se publicará a finales de junio y los pilotos comenzarán a inicios de sep-embre con una duración de 1 año, finalizando en agosto de 2022. Los pilotos están des-nados a empresas tex-les de moda, tex-l hogar y tex-les técnicos con el obje-vo de digitalizar procesos como: compras y relaciones con proveedores, producción, marke-ng y branding, ventas y relaciones con clientes, recursos humanos y desarrollo estratégico.

Desde la página web del proyecto (www.digitvc.eu) las empresas tex-les serán capaces de seleccionar un proveedor tecnológico con el que desarrollar su piloto además de tener disponible toda la información rela-va a plazos y procedimientos de la convocatoria. Además, las empresas, tanto las tecnológicas como las tex-les, podrán darse de alta en el ecosistema de DigiTVC para formar parte de la comunidad y poder colaborar con otras en el marco de los pilotos o en otras acciones que pudieran surgir como fruto de este proyecto.

El proyecto INTERREG SUDOE DigiTVC (Digitalización de la Cadena de Valor Tex4l, SOE3/P2/E0866) -ene una duración de 30 meses (01/05/2020 – 31/10/2022) y está cons-tuido por 7 en-dades, de las cuales se encuentran agrupaciones empresariales tex-les, centros de

The DigiTVC project is launching a call for pilots for the digitisation of the textile value chain. The aim of the call is to provide fi-nancial support to textile companies to undertake the digitisation of the tex-

tile value chain. The objective is to support textile manufac-turers in the introduction of pilot schemes in which processes within the company are digitised and have an impact on the value chain. Several pilots will be carried out in Spain, Portugal and France. In the case of Spain, €27,000.00 will be earmarked for these pilots.

Industry 4.0 and digitalisation represent a challenge and an op-portunity for companies. For SMEs in the textile sector in the SUDOE area, which in recent years have suffered a significant slowdown, having approaches and tools that provide rapid ac-cess to these new solutions can provide that differential add-ed value to recovering lost competitiveness and successfully address their main challenges: greater speed and flexibility, adapting to new market demands, more personalised prod-ucts and services, greater traceability and specialisation, and more efficient, productive and connected factories.

DigiTVC focuses on supporting SMEs through a digitisation diagnosis and pilots with textile companies in collaboration with start-ups and technology companies. The results will be systematised to create a protocol that will enable companies to design their digitisation strategy using the most appropriate technologies. The temporal sustainability of the project and the adequacy of the digitisation needs of the textile value chain will be guaranteed thanks to the elaboration of the protocol and the accompaniment of experts who will be trained and approved by the competent regional organisations.

From 15 April to 17 May, textile companies can complete their application report and present it for evaluation by a technical committee. The list of selected pilots will be published at the end of June and the pilots will start at the beginning of Septem-ber for a duration of 1 year, ending in August 2022. The pilots are aimed at fashion textile, home textile and technical textile companies with the objective of digitalising processes such as: purchasing and supplier relations, production, marketing and branding, sales and customer relations, human resources and strategic development.

From the project website (www.digitvc.eu), textile companies will be able to select a technology supplier with which to de-velop their pilot, as well as having all the information available regarding deadlines and procedures for the call for propos-als. In addition, both technological and textile companies will be able to register in the DigiTVC ecosystem to form part of the community and collaborate with others in the framework of the pilots or in other actions that may arise as a result of this project.

The INTERREG SUDOE DigiTVC project (Digitalisation of the Textile Value Chain, SOE3/P2/E0866) lasts 30 months (01/05/2020 - 31/10/2022) and is made up of seven entities, in-cluding textile business groups, textile research centres, train-ing entities and public entities for the dynamisation of the sec-tor. The project is coordinated by the Textile Industry Federation (TEXFOR) and the following participate: Agencia para la Com-petitividad de la Empresa (ACCIÓ) (Spain), Centro Tecnológico das Industrias Têxtil e do Vestuário de Portugal (CITEVE) (Por-tugal), Asociación de Investigación de la Industria Textil (AITEX) (Spain), Município de Vila Nova de Famalicão (CMVNF) (Por-tugal), Union des Industries Textiles Sud (UIT SUD) (France), Institut Catholique d’Arts et Métiers (ICAM) (France).

DEADLINE FOR SUBMISSION OF APPLICATIONS IS NOW OPEN https://digitvc.eu/apply-for-funding/

59

_publicly funded projects

This section highlights the Institute’s projects that have recently received the recognition and support of Public Administration. For further information, please contact us at [email protected].

CLEANTEX - R&D of new biodegradable detergent formulas for high washing efficiency

MELTEX 2021 - Circular Economy applied to thermoplastic natural textile waste

TECNOW - Meltblown nonwovens (meltblown/spunbond) for technical applications in medical-hygienic-health textiles

Washing machine detergents leave a significant ecological footprint due to their composition, as they contain contaminants which find their way into water courses, are not biodegradable and some of which are harmful to health. The CLEANTEX pro-ject aims to develop different biodegradable detergent formula-tions using ingredients from natural sources that do not contain phosphates or petroleum derivatives, as well as achieving high washing efficiency using low-foaming, fast-dispersing formula-tions designed to work with less water.

IMDEEA/2021/27

The MELTEX 2021 project provides continuity to a line of research developed in 2020, focused on the recycling of thermoplastic textiles for reintroduction into the textile in-dustry value chain. During this year, it aims to validate the applicability of materials recycled from thermoplastic textiles in new textile raw materials and products from re-lated industries, promoting inter-sectoral cooperation and creating business opportunities in textile companies that generate thermoplastic waste.

IMDEEA/2021/43

The market for nonwovens based on spun-melt technol-ogies is highly focused on the use of commodity thermo-plastic materials, mainly polypropylene. Therefore, the TECNOW project aims to add value to these materials by functionalising them and giving them new properties. The project aims to develop nonwovens using spunmelt technologies (spunbond and meltblown) with special properties and using environmentally friendly materials.

IMDEEA/2021/45

60

_publicly funded projects

HIGHSPIN - Investigating the enhancement of inherent hydrophilicity in polymeric fibres and their compatibilisation in aqueous media for reinforcement and security applications

VEGGIE 2021 - Research and development of biorefineries for textiles applications

LIGHTCOMP 2021 - Research and Development of lightweight multifunctional composites using TFP technology

TEXLA - R&D in Jacquard and openwork fabrics with enhanced stretch recovery for technical applications

The HIGHSPIN project was born out of the growing need for companies to improve the hydrophilic behaviour of polymeric fibres. The markets for sportswear, medical, automotive, etc. are becoming more and more demand-ing in terms of technical fabrics to offer good breatha-bility, resistance and functionalities that add value to the product. This market trend creates a need for research into improved moisture management in polyamide fab-rics. In addition, the replacement of polypropylene fibres with other polyamide fibres in processes using aqueous media (safety paper and reinforcing concrete) represents a novel alternative that would offer a higher quality prod-uct at a lower cost than those existing on the market.

IMDEEA/2021/22

As a result of the previous research carried out in the Biomatter 2019-2020 project, which successfully initiated work on the bio-fabrication of cellulosic materials for the textile-home and fashion sectors, the VEGGIE 2021 project aims to research and develop value-added solutions for the textile sector through the revaluation of agri-food/forestry waste and the use of 100% natural resources, mainly from the Valencian Community.

IMDEEA/2021/41

In recent years, there has been an increase in the de-mand for composite materials, since in many sectors (aeronautics, naval...) they are a very important compo-nent because of the weight saving they offer, as they are much lighter than any other material while being high strength. The main objective of the LIGHTCOMP 2021 project is to develop lightweight multifunctional com-posites using Tailored Fibre Placement (TFP) technol-ogy for the furniture, sports and naval sectors, offering high strength.

IMDEEA/2021/44

The openwork and jacquard weaving sector are faced with the prob-lem of the fabrics being stiff and of low elasticity. The main objective of the TEXLA project is to obtain fabrics with improved elongation capacities for technical applications that meet the technical require-ments of the various existing regulations in each potential market.

IMDEEA/2021/12

61


These projects are supported by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE, and are co-financed by EU ERDF funds, within the Operational Programme ERDF of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.

BIENESMART 2021 - Research and development of smart textiles to monitor physiological parameters for the improvement of people’s wellbeing

CIRCULAR INDUSTRY - CV – A circular economy scheme for the revalorisation of multi-composite waste from the footwear, toy and textile industries in the Valencia Region

BRODER - Research and development of smart textiles using embroidery technology

Thanks to technological advances, it is possible to use smart textiles and wearable devices for remote and continuous monitoring.

Most of us are concerned about our health, so working on certain aspects related to the behaviour and physical conditions of users is key to improving their wellbeing. The BIENES- MART 2021 project aims to develop textile solu-tions that monitor vital signs and physiological parameters by integrating sen-sors into everyday textile garments to improve people’s wellbeing and health.

IMDEEA/2021/15

The main objective of this Initiative is the development of circular economy models for the revalorisation of multi-composite products generated in the textile, footwear and toy industries. These circular economy models can be both intra- and inter-sectorial between the industrial areas represented by the collaborating Technology Cen-tres: INESCOP, AIJU and AITEX. The three Institutes have wanted to tackle the problems associated with multi-composite materials for years because there is currently not technically and economically viable strat-egy for their revaluation.

IMIDEC/2019/19

New trends and technologies are shaping a new concept of urban living, bringing with them a profound change. Our relationship with our home will change radically, de-pending more and more on virtual assistants and inter-connected devices. The main objective of the BRODER project is to carry out research to develop smart textiles with high added value using embroidery technology for home automation applications.

IMDEEA/2021/31

62

The European Union has approved the first-ever defence re-search budget, estimated at more than $7 billion for the period 2021-2027. In order to implement this programme, Brussels designed a pilot programme to test the capacity of the conti-nent’s companies to carry out defence research projects, the so-called Preparatory Action for Defence Research (PADR). AITEX is one of the few entities in Spain leading a project within this initiative.

The general objective of this contract is to support the imple-mentation of the agency’s strategic research agenda in the field of Protection against nuclear, chemical and biological agents (NBC) and to support the development of the projects defined in this agenda. To this end, a Consortium led by AITEX has been set up which brings together all the experience and knowledge necessary to cover the expertise required to prop-erly implement the tasks of the contract. In addition, AITEX will evaluate the impact of COVID-19 on the implementation of the strategic research agenda.

_news

Progress on the new AITEX building

AITEX leads a European Defence Agency project to establish the Agency’s lines of research

The construction of the new AITEX headquarters in Alcoy is progressing in leaps and bounds. The project comprises con-struction of some 31,000 m² and a usable area of 28,000 m².

The Institute decided to contract the work, subdividing it into lots or contracting packages, which it will award in accordance

with the project execution schedule, by means of the proce-dure set out on the website www.aitex.es/licitacion-construc-cion-nuevo-edificio-aitex, ensuring at all times the premises of transparency and publicity.

Visit of the AITEX Management Committee to the construction site of the new headquarters.

63

Documents

Javier Jiménez Marco - AITEX