1 Updated 18/05/2017 © Derek Marshall · 2017. 5. 18. · Gevegsgereed – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 23.02.2013 (6B&C) 23. Protean – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout

1 Updated 18/05/2017 © Derek Marshall


LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You

choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can

take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe

or any other body. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at

all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up

most of the information, with a beer, at the computer. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training,

common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take care!

NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your

pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. You are more

than welcome to print out, e-mail or link to a web page this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information

intact.

As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send

missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to [email protected] . All information will be greatly

appreciated.

DIRECTIONS: From the N2 towards Cape Town, take the Van Stadens Pass off ramp, then turn R towards

Rocklands/Uitenhage. After about 5km the road crosses a rail track. Soon after the rail track turn L sharply on to a wide

dirt road. Drive past the Lady’s Slipper & Falcon Rock. Continue along the dirt for about 2.5km. At the T junction turn R

& then L. Continue to a gate that says No Entry. Park on the L about 100m before the warden’s house.

30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulders Toorberg Swartberg

1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi 44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop

2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn

3 PE urban crags & boulders 32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering

4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall

5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution

6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns

7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip

Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass

8 Tygerhoek Garden Route

9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama

10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier

11 Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags

12 Pinnacle Gorge East London

13 Cockscomb 34 NSA

14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole

15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River

Baviaans

16 Grips

17 Kudu Kaya

18 Waterkloof

Grahamstown

25 Alicedale

26 Howieson's Poort

27 Moodies

28 Bouldering

29 Thornkloof

Port Elizabeth

EASTERN CAPE CLIMBING VENUES

1

N2

Ladismith

Port Elizabeth

HankeyPatensie

SteytlervilleWillowmore

Uniondale

Plettenberg Bay

Oudtshoorn

Graff-Reinet

Fort Beaufort

Grahamstown

Alicedale

QueenstownTarkastud

Middelburg

CradockNieu Bathesda

Stutterheim

Aliwal North

Jeffreys Bay

East London

Port St Johns

Coffee Bay

Mthatha

King Williams Town

Hogsback

Uitenhage

N2

N2

R329

N10

N9

R75

R322

R67

R62

R63

R62

23

4

15

1617

18

6

7

192021

2223

24

8-14

49

46

5

4748

5051

25 29

28

30

31

32

38

39

40

41

42

44

45

34-37

26-27

33

43

N6

N2

More route guides can be found on

easterncaperockclimbing.co.za

mailto:[email protected]


ACCESS: This is Nelson Mandela Metro Municipality land. You are supposed to have a permit to enter. These

are free, but must be obtained from the municipal offices during week days & office hours…that is before you

arrive to climb. Please be supper pleasant and polite to the warden. This is important. The water is

intended for drinking in PE. DO NOT piss, wash or fish in the dam! All ablutions to be done on flat ground well

away from the dam. Let’s behave & keep access open.

ACCOMMODATION: Falcon Rock & High Brae on the Lady’s Slipper Road have camping & cottages. No camping is

allowed in the gorge.

GENERAL: Bring a costume in summer. Plenty of swimming spots & some sweet deep water bouldering.

ROCK TYPE: Quartzite. Mostly steep to overhanging. 286 bolted pitches and 130 trad routes. The trad is on average

very mediocre.

TIME & WEATHER: Van Stadens crags are have different aspects, so there is all year round climbing. Cleopatra, Platform &

The Beach can potential be climbed in wet miserable weather. Even in extremely pathetic weather Cleo has been climbable.

Poop Scoop & Platform dry quickly & have limited seep. Sabaton, Easter Bunnie’s, Mantis & Raven Shadow are the only shaded

crags. Van Stadens is a river with hundreds of swimming spots to cool off in. There is some fun deep water bouldering for those

days when it is really too hot. The river comes up after very heavy rain. Study this guide & choose your crag for the day well.

POTENTIAL: There is still a fair amount of potential for new routes. The writer is saving

the knowledge of these for his own pleasure.

HAZARDS: Area is totally safe, but watch out for:

1. Bees, these are a serious hazard. There are swarms hiving at Kargen, The Beach.

Take real care. There can be 10 000 bees in a hive, only 200 stings will kill the average

man. Bees are especially active & agitated on hot still days.

2. Snakes, lots of puffadders have been seen over the years.

3. Leopards, Nobody has seen one, but they are there!

4. Baboons, stay way & never try to chase them away or displace them. They are

dangerous!

5. Sun & dehydration: climb early & late during summer. Siesta in the pool!

6. Don’t mess with the Water Affairs Warden or his people, they will chase you away.

7. Don’t make fires!

ENVIRONMENTAL: Van Stadens is unspoiled awesome wilderness. Don’t tell anybody,

let’s keep it a secret.

1. If you need to go to the toilet in the bush or at the crags, please bury your business

well. Don’t burn the toilet paper as this may set the bush alight.

2. Please set an example & carry out any litter you come across. It is honestly only us

climbers who give a shit about the gorge. Let’s keep it beautiful. Smokers we know it’s

not you guys throwing down stompies, obviously it’s the non-smokers who throw down

other people’s stomies to show smokers as the bad guys. So please if you see a non-

smoker throwing down a stompie please confront, kak them out & make sure they carry out your stompies. Stompies

are gross & don’t belong in nature.

HISTORY: There are a few Koisan/Bushman paintings in the climbing areas. Nothing spectacular, but please don’t

touch, wet, damage or bolt close to them if you do manage to find them. Not much is known about who first climbed in

Van Stadens. Probably the first climbing was at Woodridge. School Rocks has seen continuous action, mostly on top


Page Page Page Page Page

6 Poop Scoop 15 Sabaton 22 Easter Bunnie's 29 UFO Pinnacle 35 Flower Reserve

9 Fool's Castle 17 Kargen & Mantis 23 The Beach 30 Blackout 36 Woodridge

10 Prophet’s Cave 18 Forever 25 Platform 31 La Douche 38 Slayer

12 The Shelter 19 Cleopatra 26 Raven Shadow 32 Apple Express 40 Raven Age

13 Eland Spoor 21 Lower Cleo 26 Loppit 33 Troll

14 Pump House 21 Rosetta 27 Pipe Bridge 34 Trek Africa

rope, through all the years from about 1965. Access to develop new lines at Woodridge was given in 2015.

This quickly led to the sweetest beginners sport crag in Port Elizabeth area. In 1982 Andrew Forsyth top roped

some routes at what is now Easter Bunnies Secret Hideout & later top anchors were added. Michael Rohwer,

Bradly Twig, Andrew Wesson, Craig Reynolds, Donald White & Richard van der Merwe were responsible for

the initial lines at Cleopatra & The Beach in the ‘80s. Old top anchors were found at Poop Scoop, Platform & a very

rusted piton at Eland Spoor. These crags were then lost & forgotten. The Beach was re-discovered by Morne van der

Mescht, who together with Derek Marshall started re-bolting & bolting new lines in 2003. The Beach was basically the

only crag that saw any climbing between 2003 & 2006. This stopped in 2006 when the sandy base was washed away

by a flood. Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold put down a few sport lines at Trek Africa & Apple Express in the early 2000s.

The 2009 Rock ‘n Road inspired the bolting of the rest of Cleopatra & then the current wave of sport climbing in van

Stadens. Vast majority of the bolts at van Stadens were sponsored by Derek Marshall who also bolted majority of the

routes.

Contents


Lower Van Stadens Dam

Park

Park

Park

Park

Train Bridge

Weir

Water Affairs Warden's House


Poop Scoop

Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to

an electrical pylon. Find the path that drops down the gully 40m after the pylon. Scramble down & around the

corner for about 70m to Poop Scoop. The routes from R to L.

1. Fire at Will – 17

12m Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 2010

(4B&C)

2. Over the Seven Seas - 19

Derek & Juan-dray Marshall

04.08.2012 (5B&C)

3. Seventh Son Of a Seventh Son

– 20

12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der

Mescht 2010 (5B&C)

4. Palace of Fantasy – 21

12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der

Mescht 2010 (5B&C)

5. Open Project – 32-ish

12m Bolted Joe Mohle (4B&C)

6. Avenge – 21

12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (4B&C)

7. King of Paradise – 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 29.09.2012 (4B&C)

8. What If I – 21 18m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (8B&C)

9. Closed Project – 30-ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (7B&C)

10. Burning Sky – 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 05.02.2012 (9B&C)

11. The Fire Burns Forever – 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 26.05.2013 (7B&C)

1

6

35 4

2

7

8

Poop Scoop

10

9

12

13

8

14

18

19

20

21

11

16

22

15

17

Poop Scoop


12. Smile of the Sun – 19 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 05.02.2012 (6B&C)

13. Let the Hammer Fall – 18 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 05.02.2012 (4B&C)

14. Koevoet – 19 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 04.08.2012 (5B&C)

15. Au-BH!! – 21 Dricus Bezuidenhout & Derek Marshall 06.07.2014 (T)

Up to the Koevoet, break through onto ledge. Up to L of arête.

16. Victory & Sacrifice – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 05.02.2012 (5B&C)

17. Touch & Go, Oh, Oh, Oh! – 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 16.02.2013 (6B&C)

18. Creatures of the Underworld – 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 04.08.2012 (6B&C)

19. The Ultimate Sin – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 26.05.2013 (5B&C)

Bolted by Derek Marshall.

20. People of the Eland – 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 04.08.2012 (5B&C)

21. Metal Minds – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 23.02.2013 (5B&C)

22. Gevegsgereed – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 23.02.2013 (6B&C)

23. Protean – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 30.04.2014 (T)

Up open book, through ledges & through the roof to L of chains of Gevegsgereed. Belay from ledge above chains of

Gevegsgereed.

24. The Toyota Way - 20 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 30.04.2014 (T)

Start a few meters L of Gevegsgereed in an off width open book. Into the slightly overhanging R facing open book at the top.

Top out about 2m L of chains of Gevegsgereed.

25. Desired by the Night – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 30.04.2014 (T)

Broken ledges into crack system, onto a further ledge. Through the roof above.

26. Battle Field Shining Red – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 22.06.2013 (T)

Up onto sloping ledge. Move L to a heuco cubby hole, up on jugs. Gear is surprisingly good.

27. Dragon is Bleeding – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 22.06.2013 (T)

Obvious geared break, directly below a good abseil tree.

28. Living in the Shadows – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 22.06.2013 (T)

Up to L of tree, continue up break past seemingly loose blocks. Move R to belay from good tree.

29. Will You See the Light – 18 15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 22.06.2013 (T)

Up obvious break with defined gear hand crack above the middle of the route. Up face, then scramble to a tree.

The following routes are on the lower level.

30. Moenie Vok ‘n Skaap Nie – 13 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 17.08.2013 (T)

Easy ramp just L of the tea spot.

31. Under Scrutiny – 13 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 07.07.2013 (T)

Non-descript line up rock.

32. A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 22.06.2013 (T)

P1 – 18 - 22m Start below a shallow L facing open book. Directly up, over the path & through an inviting overhang to a belay

point.

P2 – 18 - 15m Up jagged overhanging break on RH side. Up moving L to belay on large terrace.

P3 – 18 - 9m Up break on RH side, into crack rail above the block.

33. Eternal Dark – 17 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 07.07.2013 (T)

Start 4m R of A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted. Up on sweet rails, directly up to belay on the path.

34. Will you Run to the Paradise – 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 07.07.2013 (T)

Jutting out stepped tiny open book, move up to the ramp & force through an awkward roof mantle.

35. Steek Plaas – 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 17.08.2013 (T)


Twin L trending diagonals over ledges, move R on steep face. Above rail 2m R to break in roof.

36. Fidelity Enforcement – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 17.08.2013 (T)

Start 4m R of Steek Plaas, up direct start on rails, over broken ramp to cracked break at the top.

37. Are You on Boom – 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 17.08.2013 (T)

R facing jagged open book. Up jagged steps to a jutting break. Directly up from this.

The next routes are on the lowest level.

38. Heart for the Revolution – 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 17.08.2013 (T)

LH L trending juggy break. Short, but cool line.

39. The Bell Tolls For Terence – 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 17.08.2013 (4B&C)

40. Rescue Knobs – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 07.06.2013 (T)

Up crack in ramp arête. Over the top.

41. Rainbow Flavored Puppy Kisses – 18 Megan Banner & Manu Nicklaus 28.10.2012 (5B&C)

42. Mobilitate Vincere – 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 26.10.2014 (5B&C)

43. Escalation of Expectation – 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 26.10.2014 (5B&C)

44. At The End of the Rainbow – 20 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 28.10.2012 (5B&C)

1110

9

12

13

8

16

17

14

1819

20

2221

26

32

2728

30

33

31

3435

29

36

38

37

39

41

P3

P2

44

15

2324

40

25

4243

Poop Scoop


Fool’s Castle


an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. About 80m up the spur there is a slight shoulder that indicates a ravine.

Down this to Fool’s Castle. It is not a very good area, but has some easy trad.

1. Fool’s Castle – 14

23m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14.10.2006 (T)

This is a sort of a free stander the on the gorge side of the ravine. Up the jagged sharp arête to

a recliner shaped top.

The following are on the ramp face on the PE side of the ravine.

2. Ship of Fools – 12

23m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14.10.2006 (T)

Smooth slab with tiger stripes to twin parallel R trending cracks, 4m R of R facing open book.

3. King of the Fools – 16


3m L of arête, up the middle using rails.

4. Fool’s Paradise – 18 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14.10.2006 (T)

Start in L facing open book, onto small ledge, up crack that starts R of small roof.

5. Fool’s Gold – 13 28m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14.10.2006 (T)

Start in L facing L curving off width open book. Up broken open book to the top.

6. Free Fool – 12 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14.10.2006 (T)

Up rails 4m L of Fool’s Gold, up RH side of square-ish block, to the top.

7. Dr Feel Good – 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14.10.2006 (T)

5.5m L of Fool’s Gold, up through RH side, moving L of block at the top.

1

Fools Castle

6

35

4

2

7

Fools Castle


Prophet’s Cave

Park & walk-in as for Poop Scoop. Continue along the ledge & keep traversing till you reach Prophet’s. There

are also various boulder problems at Prophet’s Cave.

1. Stinky Steering Wheel – 14

18m Derek & Caroline Marshall 04.10.2014

(T)

30m before Prophet’s Cave. Easy, broken,

longest & most prominent line up this small

face.

2. So Hungry & So Lean – 19

Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis

19.03.2016 (T)

Scramble up to the start, about 12m above the

level of Prophet’s Cave. Up on sloping ledges,

directly below the impressive roof with the R

facing open book on the LH side. At the roof

rail R & into a R facing open book. Up this

open book, then back L onto & around the

arête onto the face. Up to large belay ledge.

3. Big Al – 16

35m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club 05.08.2007 (T)

Up easy scramble onto ledge. Up to R of open book.

4. Super Adventure Club – 15 35m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club 05.08.2007 (T)

Start at the base of L trending L facing open book. Up steps to L trending diagonal. Up to the top.

5. Trance Prophet – 16 34m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 05.08.2007 (T)

Up L facing L trending open book. Break out & straight up to nose. Move L & up small face.

6. Prophet of Profit – 17 Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 05.08.2007 (T)

P1 – 17 - 27m Start over the lowest point of the cave. Up to a L curving open book roof. Move L & using the arête, up to ledge.

P2 – 13 - 12m Up sweet face to the top.

7. Closed Project – 31-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (17B&C)

The following routes are above the gully to the L of Prophet’s Cave

8. Gardian Angel – 16 Terence Trevaskis & Tyson Baars 19.03.2016 (T)

To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet’s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move R onto easier ground, then move back L

to avoid roves.

9. I Had a Dream - 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 19.03.2016 (T)

To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet’s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move up & L onto nice clean rock, then back R

to go through the roves.

The following routes are on the buttress to the L of Prophet’s Cave.

10. Never Run Free – 16 Derek Marshall, Crag Bester & Tyson Baars 19.03.2016 (T)

On the RH side of the buttress, up over clean ramps to ledge. Rail L on ledge to arête & up onto top.

11. Judge & the Jury – 18 Derek & Caroline Marshall 04.10.2014 (T)

4

53

P2

1

2

6

7Prophet's Cave


Start R. Up on good face, directly up. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a

bollard, belay from a further bollard.

12. Killer Sessions – 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall 04.10.2014 (T)

On the face on the end of the buttress. Start at the LH & lowest point for the face. Up on good face, trend R &

up to a large tree. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a bollard, belay from a further bollard.

13. Renegade – 15 Derek & Caroline Marshall 04.10.2014 (T)

The route is roughly in the middle of the up-stream face. Up a R facing open book, past a wattle on a ledge. Abseil from the top

from tat on a bollard.

45

3

1

2

6

8 9

10

11

12

13

Prophet's CaveEland Spoor

7


Shelter


an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. Shelter is clearly visible.

1. Kellogg's Flakes - 28 Erbert Nel & Alex Bester Dec 2016 (5B&C)

Bolted by Stephan Kramer.

2. 1000km in the Wrong Direction – 25 Alex Bester & Erbert Nel Dec 2016 (6B&C)

Bolted by Stephan Kramer.

3. Traits of a Misled Youth – 27 Joe Mohle & Clinton Martingo 2009 (T)

Prominent crack through roof.

4. Maak ‘n Beweeging – 27 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 06.02.2011 (T)

Start 2m L of prominent diagonal L trending crack. Rail out on flake. Up into L trending thin crack onto face above. Straight up to

the top.

5. Op Staan – 27 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 06.02.2011 (T)

2m L of Maak ‘n Beweeging, rail out under roof, slightly l into inverted ‘V’, straight up.

The following are on a crag that is set back a few meters behind The Shelter.

6. The Blackened Sun – 17 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25.03.2007 (T)

Up big open book, step R on ledge. Up small face on rails. Exit roof through ‘V’ notch.

7. Dimensions – 17 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25.03.2007 (T)

Up prominent break, moving L on ledge to exit.

8. Light up the Sky – 22 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25.03.2007 (T)

Up steps to under a large roof. Move L onto jagged arête. Up onto ledge to the R. Up L trending overhanging open book. Move

round the corner onto the easy ramp to the top.

1

6

3

5

4

27

8

Shelter

http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=The+Shelter&AscentName=Maak+n+Meweeging&AscentType=0http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=The+Shelter&AscentName=Maak+n+Meweeging&AscentType=0


Eland Spoor

About 200m L & at a slightly lower altitude from Shelter is Eland Spoor. Two prominent grey faces split by a

chimney.

1. Terra Smaak Vet Gat Tannies – 13

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 15.06.2012 (T)

Up the jagged RH arête.

2. Blood Potency – 16


Up the arête on the L of the RH face.

3. Blood Line – 14


Up broken middle crack system.

4. Un-known Hunter – 23 (T)

There is an old piton on this route. Unsure who opened

this line that goes directly through the middle of the LH

face.

5. Passing the Buck – 22

Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 15.06.2012 (T)

Start at the lowest point of the LH face, gain the arête.

Follow the arête to the top.

1

3

25

4

Eland Spoor


Pump House

Pump House is at the bottom of the concrete road.

1. The Rising Force – 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 18.03.2007 (T)

Up just L of the open book.

2. Rock Bottom – 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.03.2007 (T)

Up the middle of the face.

3. Shoot - 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.03.2007 (T)

Up on the arête.

4. Too Hot to Handle - 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 18.03.2007 (T)

Follow the gear up the middle of the face.

5. Tallulah – 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.03.2007 (T)

From the edge of the ledge, move up & L into the R trending open book.

6. On Your Knees – 27 23m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 20.02.2011 (11B&C)


7. Shoot’em Down – 27 23m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 20.02.2011 (11B&C)

8. Hero Takes a Fall – 23 22m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall July 2010 (10B&C)

9. Charlie Chop Stick – 14 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 31.07.2010 (T)

Follow the short perfect ramp crack to the chains at the top of the sport routes.

10. Punk Ass – 23 15m Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 10.10.2010 (7B&C)

11. Closed Project – 27-ish 15m Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C)


13. Animal Instinct – 26 15m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 04.12.2011 (7B&C)

14. Damnation Angel – 24 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (6B&C)

15. Drive By – 24 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (6B&C)

16. Closed Project – 26-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall

17. Closed Project – 26-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall

1

63

5

4

2

78

11 109

12

14

13

15

Pump House

16/17


Sabaton

Sabaton is the slither of rock that you see on the other side of the river as you walk down the concrete road.

1. Smoking Snakes – 17 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman 11.03.2017 (6B&C)

2. Purple Heart – 13 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 29/04/2017 (T)

Up easy ramp open book, move L to chains of Smoking Snakes.

3. Reign of Terror – 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 25.02.2017 (5B&C)

4. Rise of Evil – 17 Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester 12.02.2017 (4B&C)

Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall.

5. Assassin’s Creed – 14 Craig Bester & Ruben Snyman 14.01.2017 (3B&C)

6. Far From the Fame - 14 Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester 14.01.2017 (T)

Up steps & edge to R of Assassin’s Creed.

7. Wehrmacht - 23 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 27.01.2017 (11B&C)

8. Coat of Arms - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 27.01.2017 (10B&C)

Bolted by Terence Trevaskis.

9. Midway - 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14.01.2017 (10B&C)

10. All Guns Blazing - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 09.04.2017 (10B&C)

11. Last Dying Breath – 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 02.04.2017 (11B&C)

1513 14 1816 17 2119 20

5

6

3 4

1

7

8 912

11

14

13

10 22

20

17

15

16

18

25

4243

4445

46

49

47

50

Sabaton

21

23

24

19

27

28

30

29

3133/36

37

2

48

26

32

38

41

39/40


12. Lost Battalion – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 01.04.2017 (10B&C)

13. Metal Crüe – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 11.03.2017 (9B&C)

14. Ghost Division – 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 11.03.2017 (11B&C)

15. Uprising – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 05.03.2017 (11B&C)

16. Night Witches – 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 04.03.2017 (12B&C)

17. Come Suck My Metal Machine – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 05.03.2017 (11B&C)

18. Resist & Bite – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 04.03.2017 (11B&C)

19. Counter Strike – 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 25.02.2017 (11B&C)

20. The March to War - 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 25.02.2017 (15B&C)

21. Primo Victoria - 22 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 18.02.2017 (12B&C)

22. Fallen in War – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12.02.2017 (12B&C)

23. Soldiers of Three Armies – 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 05.02.2017 (11B&C)

24. Saboteurs – 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 27.01.2017 (14B&C)

25. Panzer Kaempf – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 14.01.2017 (15B&C)

26. Closed Project – Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (??B&C)

27. Forty To One – 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 14.05.2017 (14B&C)

28. Gallipoli – 22 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 14.05.2017 (15B&C)

29. Gott Mit Uns - 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 07.05.2017 (10B&C)

30. The Art of War – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 06.05.2017 (7B&C)

31. Closed Project – Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (7B&C)

32. Closed Project – Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C)



35. The Last Tour – 17 Juan-dray Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 07.05.2017 (T)

Up the obvious L facing open book.

36. Wolfpack – 17 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-dray Marshall 07.05.2017 (5B&C)

37. Blood of Bannockburn – 15 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall 07.05.2017 (4B&C)

38. Sparta – 23

39. Dead Soldier’s Waltz – 20 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 07.05.2017 (5B&C)



42. Fight Back to Back - 19 Derek Marshall & Alex Munro 29.04.2017 (5B&C)

43. The Price of a Mile - 20 Derek Marshall & Alex Munro 29.04.2017 (5B&C)

44. Ruben’s Closed Project – Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (8B&C)

45. Screaming Eagles – 20 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (8B&C)

46. Swedish Pagans – 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 27.01.2017 (9B&C)

47. War Hammer – 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 27.01.2017 (8B&C)

48. Hill 3234 – 13 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 29/04/2017 (T)

Easy break into wide chimney.

49. The Last Stand - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson 09.04.2017 (4B&C)

50. Shiroyama - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson 09.04.2017 (4B&C)


Kargen

Walk past Pump House, about 300m upstream, Kargen is on the LH side.

1. Sons of Oden – 21

Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 11.09.2011 (8B&C)

2. The Trickster – 21

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (8B&C)

Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall.

Mantis

50m upstream from Kargen, but around the pool.

1. Blood Dance – 18

Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 17.02.2013 (7B&C)

2. Ghost of War – 18

Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 2011 (8B&C)

3. Three One – 21

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (8B&C)

4. Shadow King – 20 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (7B&C)

Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall.

5. Under the Spell of the Moon – 21 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (6B&C)


6. Tears of Babylon – 19 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011 (9B&C)


7. Merlin – 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (7B&C)

8. Better Than the Rest – 27 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette 11.09.2011 (7B&C)

9. Guardians Of Time – 28 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 11.09.2011 (8B&C)


11. Fly High – 24 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette 2011 (5B&C)


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1

6

3

54

2

2

89

7

1

10

11

Mantis

Kargen


Forever

This sweet face is 80m above start of the path to The Beach.

1. Last Forever – 14 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 05.07.2015 (T)

Easy ramp crack.

2. We Built this House – 13 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 05.07.2015 (T)

Up to L of jutting overhang. Then up ramp crack.

3. Return to Forever – 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 05.07.2015 (T)

Up the middle of the face below the roof. Move L into R facing open book, then R under roof.

4. Forever & a Day – 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 05.07.2015 (T)

Up behind LH edge of free standing block. Up then traverse diagonally L to a cubby hole. Then up trending slightly R.

5. Going Out With a Bang – 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 05.07.2015 (T)

Up behind free standing block, moving a bit R. Up L trending ramp arête.

Forever

35

4

21


Cleopatra

From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto

a sandy path. Cross the river to the PE side when you can. Follow the river upstream to a large dam wall.

Scramble up the LH bank about 60m below the dam wall. Cleopatra is about 150m upstream from the dam wall & about 15m

above the water when the dam is full. Routes are recorded from L to R.


2. Suck it Up Princess – 22 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle 28.12.2008 (4B&C)

3. You Kinky Little Thing / PROJECT - +-32 Bolted Derek Marshall (4B&C)

4. Sex, Drugs & Prostitution, but Don’t Be a Dricus – 23 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 19.04.2009 (3B&C)

5. The Shallows – 20 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 21.02.2011 (9B&C)

6. Noodle Salad – 18 Martin Rehm & Derek Marshall 09.01.2009 (9B&C)


7. Steel Sunday – 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 07.12.2008 (11B&C)

8. Snaking the Mates – 24 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 12.07.2009 (11B&C)

9. Mene – 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 07.12.2008 (11B&C)

10. Tekel – 22 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle 09.11.2008 (10B&C)

11. Peres – 23 Derek Marshall & Martin Rehm 09.01.2009 (10B&C)

12. Relentless – 24 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 14.06.2009 (11B&C)

13. Luck of the Buffalo – 25 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 12.07.2009 (10B&C)

14. Son of a Bitch - 27 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle 04.01.2009 (10B&C)


15. Time of the Oath – 24 Derek Marshall & Magnus Wagener 15.06.2009 (12B&C)

16. Send or Bend - 24 Willem Oosthuysen & Derek Marshall 31.05.2009 (10B&C)


17. Black Day – 24 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall 04.07.2009 (10B&C)


18. Sunset Sonata - 27 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout 27.06.2009 (12B&C)

Bolted by Morne Van Der Mescht, extended by Derek Marshall.

19. Send & Receive – 25 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout 16.05.2009 (10B&C)


20. Breakthrough – 25 Morne Van Der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2007 (9B&C)

The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall, opened by Clinton Martiningo.

21. Faded Memories – 26 Adam Ludford & Cameron Smith 30.05.2009 (10B&C)

Original route stopped before the top. The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall

22. King of the Sky – 25 Richard Walker way back (9B&C)

Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall.

23. Hey Lord! – 27 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 22.05.2010(10B&C)

24. Better Days – 25 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout 30.05.2009 (11B&C)


25. Light The Universe - 22 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 17.05.2009 (10B&C)

26. Within Temptation – 23 Derek Marshall & Garreth Brown 07.06.2009 (8B&C)

27. Grawwww! – 23 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 07.06.2009 (8B&C)

28. Hunter Killer – 22 Derek Marshall & Martin Renz 16.05.2009 (11B&C)

The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original opened as a mixed line by Andrew Wesson.


2

4

3

9

6

8

117 10 13

5

12

14

16

1518

20

17

21

24

19

222523

3827

26

37

3629

30

28 31 32 3533 4139

42

34

Cleopatra

40

43

1

29. Serial Sandbager – 23 Derek Marshall & Martin Renz 16.05.2009 (8B&C)

The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original bolted & opened by Andrew Wesson.

Morne Van Der Mescht re-bolted the first part. Derek Marshall extended it to the lip.

30. The Hunters Lunch – 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 17.05.2009

(7B&C)

31. Geological Event – 21 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle 28.12.2008 (4B&C)

32. Ride the Sky – 23 Andrew Wesson 1983 (8B&C)


33. Inner Beauty – 27 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall 15.11.2008 (7B&C)


34. She’s a Little Loose – 25 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall 28.12.2008 (7B&C)


35. Cleopatra’s Crack – 20 Richard van der Merwe 1993 (7B&C)

36. Cleopatra’s Cat – 20 Andrew Wesson 1993 (5B&C)

37. Snorting Tequila – 19 Andrew Wesson 1993 (6B&C)

38. Agent of the Receiver – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12.04.2008 (4B&C)

39. See, Believe & Do – 21 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle 09.11.2008 (6B&C)

40. Élan Audacity - 20 Derek & Caroline Marshall 2014 (6B&C)

41. Exercise in Futility – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12.04.2008 (6B&C)

42. Chasing Rubber Bones – 19 Andrew Wesson 1993 (6B&C)


43. From Here to Eternity – 17 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 2012 (6B&C)


Lower Cleo

On the walk-in to Cleo, 70m before you reach Cleopatra, on a small corner close to the water.

1. Preemptive Attack – 14

Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout

05.07.2014 (T)

Up overhang just R of arête, up to

belay from tree.

2. Dynamite – 14

Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout

05.07.2014 (T)

Up open book just R of Dynamite.

3. Some Where Some How – 19

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011

(5B&C)

4. The Trooper – 19

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011

(5B&C)

5. Quest for Fire – 20 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C)

6. Dreams & Fantasies – 20 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C)

7. Lill Bill – 19 Lars Gringel & Dricus Bezuidenhout 05.07.2014 (5B&C)


8. Bibi Blocksberg – 18 Lars Gringel & Derek Marshall 05.07.2014 (5B&C)


9. Ti//Nhu! - 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 05.07.2014 (5B&C)

10. Trevelied – 16 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 05.07.2014 (5B&C)

11. Iron Law – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 05.07.2014 (5B&C)

Rosetta

Walk in as for Cleopatra. From the LH side of Cleopatra move

along the ledge to a smaller trad version of Cleopatra. Routes

are recorded from L to R:

1. Wash Away Those Years – 16


8m R of the start of the LH side of the crag, from a crack that

halts, start 0.5m L.

2. Your Friend – 17


2m R of Wash Away Those Years, up break moving R through the overhang.

3. Rambo 4 – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 16.03.2008 (T)

2.5 R of Your Friend up R facing open book into off width. Break out L to avoid cactus.

1 2

3

Rosetta

1

2

3

108 9

4

11

65

7

Lower Cleopatra

Easy deep water bouldering


Easter Bunnie’s Secret Hideout

Walk-in to base of dam wall. Up the big steps to the top of the RH side of the wall. This small shaded crag is

15m behind the dam wall. All day shade, great for a hot day.

1. Sweiny Hond – 21 Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall 06.01.2011 (7B&C)


2. Diamonds in the Rough – 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20.02.2011 (7B&C)

3. Closed Project – 25-ish (5B&C) Derek Marshall

4. Flight of Icarus – 25 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 15.05.2011 (5B&C)

5. Sun & Steel – 27 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (5B&C)


6. Avantasia – 20 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 03.03.2007 (T&C)

Second L facing open book.

7. Closed Project – 26-ish (5B&C) Derek Marshall

8. Burning Down The Opera – 21 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22.07.2007 (3B&C)

9. The Headless Game – 17 12m Derek Marshall & Steven Lancaster 22.07.2007 (3B&C)

10. Chocolate One Way – 14 09m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 22.07.2007 (T&C)

Short crack 1.5m R of The Headless Game.

DAM WALL

WATER

1

6

3

5

4

2

7

8

10

9


The Beach

From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto

a sandy path on the other side of the weir. Follow the river upstream. Cross the river at the logical point to a small concrete

bridge. Just after the concrete bridge, there is a fin, the path starts behind the fin. Up the path to the top of the hill. Just over the

top of the hill look for a path to the L. Follow this steep path down to a large overhanging crag set above water. The base of The

Beach was washed away by floods in 2004. The Beach was regarded as complete after the initial routes were opened in 2004.

Derek & Jaun-Dray Marshall added most of the easier routes, making this one of the best beginner & intermediate crag in Van

Stadens.

These routes are on a tiny crag just of the path as it drops into The Beach

1. Steam Rock Fever – 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 13.07.2013 (T)

Up on inside of arête, moving onto the arête.

2. Another Piece of Meat – 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 13.07.2013 (T)

Up to the R of the open book, move L into L trending prominent flake system.

3. Out Of Control – 19 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.02.2013 (5B&C)

4. Funky Chicken – 19 Jessica Jefferies & Morne van der Mescht 2003 (5B&C)

Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb 2013.

5. Bouche – 18 Morne van der Mescht & Monique Hibonet 2003 (6B&C)

Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb 2013.

6. Appetite for Destruction – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.02.2013 (6B&C)

7. Avantasia – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 21.03.2013 (6B&C)

8. Allen’s Crazy Crack – 17 Allan Luck & Derek Marshall 2003 (T)

9. Power of Fantasy – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 21.03.2013 (6B&C)

10. Check Dat Bitch – 19 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 13.07.2013 (7B&C)

11. Czech This – 21 Magnus Wagener & Viera Vancova 2004 (7B&C)

12. Bush Biscuit – 22 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 11.09.2011 (10B&C)

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24 25

3 7

118

1012

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17

18

19

23

22

20

21

27

26

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1

6

The Beach

19/20/21


13. Lancaster – 21


14. Da' Bitch – 24

Magnus Wagener & Dricus Bezuidenhout 16.02.2014 (7B&C)

15. Fuck Dat Bitch - 24 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette 11.09.2011 (10B&C)

16. Forced Sterilization – 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 15.09.2013 (8B&C)

17. Filter or Flavor – 26 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2006 (5B&C)

18. Die With Your Boots On – 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 15.01.2011 (11B&C)

19. Sheathless – 19 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (4B&C)

20. Save Us Now – 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 25.05.2013 (13B&C)

21. Wings of a Dream – 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 23.11.2013 (13B&C)

22. Walking in the Air – 29 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 06.03.2011 (5B&C)

Bolted Derek Marshall.

23. Soleil – 27 Martin Renz & Morne van der Mescht 2003 (9B&C)

24. Hydrophobic – 29 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (6B&C)

25. Predatory Jungle Law – 29 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2006 (6B&C)

26. Overthrust – 23 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (7B&C)

This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Morne van der Mescht extended & re-bolted the line.

27. Sleeping Beauty – 25 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jefferies (7B&C)

28. Hydrophilic – 27 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (5B&C)

This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Extension & re-bolting by Derek Marshall.

29. Open Project Bolted Morne van der Mescht (5B&C)

30. Open Project – 29-ish Bolted Kevin Watkins & Paul Brouard (6B&C)


Platform

Same walk-in as The Beach, but near the top of the hill at a concrete beacon, follow a path L for about 300m

to a steep drop down behind Platform.

1. Wings of Time – 22 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 25.07.2010 (9B&C)

2. Tatoo Van ‘n Slang Op Jou Tiete – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 18.07.2010 (9B&C)

3. Be Cruel to Your School – 25 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 25.07.2010 (12B&C)

4. King of the Sky – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 25.07.2010 (9B&C)

5. Salami – 24 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 25.07.2010 (9B&C)

6. Tsunami – 24 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 24.07.2010 (9B&C)

7. Taste the Pain – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 24.07.2010 (9B&C)

8. Cold War Bitch – 23 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 24.07.2010 (9B&C)

9. Don’t Bust My Chops – 23 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 24.07.2010 (9B&C)

10. A Taste of Life – 22 Derek Marshall & Ruan Grundlingh 02.05.2015 (9B&C)

11. Hear The Heathen Call – 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 24.04.2016 (8B&C)

Bolted by Ruan Grundlingh.

12. Bro Love – 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 02.05.2015 (9B&C)


13. Puffmutter – 21 Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall 03.01.2010 (7B&C)

Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall.

14. Týr The Hamer of Thor – 23 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 02.08.2016 (8B&C)

15. Closed Project – 24-ish Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall

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28

54

2

29

8

2330

24 2625

27

36

79

11 1012

14

13

The Beach PlatformWalk-in to Platform

15


Raven Shadow

From The Beach, cross the stream & the sand to a small out crop on the other side. This is in the direction of

Cleopatra. This crag gets good shade. The routes & the setting is very pleasant.

1. SMSs From the Dead – 21

Derek Marshall & Charl Lotter 24.05.2015 (4B&C)


2. Closed Project (6B&C)

Bolted by Derek Marshall

3. Dark Wings – 23


4. Blood Bound – 22


Loppit

Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. The routes are at water

level, short & easy. The routes L to R:

1. Give – 12 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 18.02.2007 (T)

Up crack moving L into easy break.

2. What’s Right – 17 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.02.2007 (T)

2m R of curving crack, up short blank looking face.

3. Choose to Live – 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.02.2007 (T)

Prominent open book with perfect crack to the L.

4. Lord I Stand – 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.02.2007 (T)

3.5m R of prominent open book, then up jagged arête.

5. Against the Faceless Man – 14 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18.02.2007 (T)

2m R of Lord I Stand up rails into hand crack.

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34

Raven Shadow


Pipe Bridge

Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. Up

the tributary that the Pipe Bridge crosses. The routes are at water level.

The following are on the downstream side of the Pipe Bridge.

1. Knobs Walk – 12 13m Craig Bester & Deon Mostert 03.06.2007 (T)

Easy line to R of small buttress.

2. Puppy Line – 11 13m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott 03.06.2007 (T)

Small easy line to L of buttress.

The following are on the upstream side of the Pipe Bridge.

3. Chops – 18 15m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott 03.06.2007 (T)

2m L of Slithers, up under cut lay away. Into off width.

4. Slithers – 16 15m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott 03.06.2007 (T)

Double tiny L facing open book. Step R onto ledge onto upturned nose. Up ramp to the top.

5. Mediocrity – 17 10m Derek & Caroline Marshall 14.11.2015 (T)

Up break below off-width formed by semi-detached block on top.

6. Living After Midnight – 19 10m Derek & Caroline Marshall 14.11.2015 (T)

Up prominent crack below diagonal L break.

7. Loving Till the Morning – 14 12m Derek & Caroline Marshall 14.11.2015 (T)

Start in low short L facing open book. Up stepping R into further L facing open book.

8. Loaded – 14 12m Derek & Caroline Marshall 14.11.2015 (T)

Up easy break below broken fin. Rail R at the top to abseil tree.

9. God of Deliverance – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 2012


10. Die Swartz Gevaar – 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 2012

Bolted by Craig Schwartz.

11. Heart of the Rainbow – 22 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 2012


12. Wings of Insanity – 25 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (7B&C) 2011

13. Jaws of Pleasure – 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 2011

14. Wild on the Run – 18 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 2011

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3

2

4

76

5

8

Pipe Bridge


15. Freedom Call – 26 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) 2012


16. Cry of the Night – 24 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) 2011

17. Crystal Empire – 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) 2012

18. Rise Up to Heaven – 23 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) 2011


20. Closed Project – 30-ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (8B&C)

Pipe Bridge

20

13 12 91110

16

14

1719

15

18

14/15


UFO Pinnacle

UFO Pinnacle is the small pinnacle with the huge loose flying saucer (!) shaped boulder parked on top,

about 400m downstream from the pump house on the JB side of the van Stadens River.

1. Only You Can Rock Me – 16

15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.01.2015 (T)

Start on a ramp on the downstream, JB arête. Stay basically on the LH

side of this arête.

2. Too Hot To Handle – 16

17m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.01.2015 (T)

Up arête on the downstream, PE side. Stay basically on the LH side of

this arête, moving around to the river face near the top.

Avoid touching the huge flying saucer shaped boulder parked on

top, it’s ready to fly

3. The Mad Axeman – 17

36m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 02.12.2007 (T)

Start below the upstream, river facing arête. Move up & onto the arête,

breaking L onto the river face. Up to the top, over the UFO, with

caution (!). It should fly downstream, so be ready to jump upstream.

4. Rock Bottom – 15 32m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout 02.12.2007 (T)

Up below the RH river facing arête. Up moving R to the top.

The following routes are on a tiny face behind UFO Pinnacle.

5. One of Those Nights – 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up crack above ramp on LHS.

6. Running Up the Highway – 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up in groove moving L.

7. Born for the Good Life – 15 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up through groove into R trending crack.

8. Axe to Grind – 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up smooth face below notch in roof. Through the notch, moving R onto the point.

9. Shoot Shoot – 16 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up below point move R of point, then directly up.

10. Let the Good Times Role – 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall 07.02.2015 (T)

Up smooth ramp to R of overhand at the top.

The following routes are on a tiny face above a pool opposite the UFO Pinnacle.

11. Ain’t Life Sweet – 16 15m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout 02.12.2007 (T)

1m R of the arête, up the crack system. Dricus was too afraid to lead this line.

12. Doctor, Doctor – 16 15m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 02.12.2007 (T)

3m R of the arête. Up cracks & steps onto a tree in a gully.

These two routes are about 100m upstream on UFO Pinnacle, above a pool on the JB side.

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1

3

26

7

5

8

9

12

11

10

UFO Pinnacle

Abseil

Tree

Abseil

Point


13. Lights Out in London – 13

18m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 10.01.2015 (T)

From the platform just above the water, up just L of RH arête. Non-

descript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock.

14. C’mon Everybody – 13

18m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 10.01.2015 (T)

2m L of RH arête. Non-descript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock.

This route is on the grey face 12m upstream of UFO Pinnacle, somewhere above the

previous two routes.

15. Strength of Play – 17 38m Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 29.11.2015 (T)

Up the blunt LH ramp arête. Trend R & too the top. Walk off towards the waterfall. Move through a hole in the waterfall stream

course.

Blackout

Above & slightly down stream of UFO Pinnacle. The diagonal roof cap is a prominent feature.

1. Poppers Never Tell – 17 22m Derek & Caroline Marshall 01.05.2015 (T)

Up ramp on RH side of cave, then step over cave & up to a ledge. Up the middle of the face above the ledge To another ledge.

Up the thin face above to some loose looking blocks.

2. Blackout – 19 26m Derek & Caroline Marshall 01.05.2015 (T)

Start up short hand crack in overhang on L of cave to gain a ledge. Up the hucos directly to the lowest point of the diagonal roof.

Up the R trending roof open book, the up the easy face on the R.

3. Papa sê Pant – 18 26m Derek & Caroline Marshall 01.05.2015 (T)

Scramble onto a ledge & then up a line of amazing hucos 2m L of Blackout. At the lowest point of the diagonal roof, break out ,

then up the ramp.

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Blackout


La Douche

This is the not so marvelous face slightly up stream & opposite the UFO Pinnacle.

1. Master Schnafler – 19 Terence Trevaskis & Ruan Grundlingh April 2015 (8B&C)

2. Delicious Monster - 20 Terence Trevaskis & Craig Swartz Sept 2015 (8B&C)

3. Illusional Beginner – 18 Terence Trevaskis & Patrick Brown 10.01.2015 (T)

Up R facing open book under a small roof. Continue up to jagged R facing open book, through cubby hole & directly up.

4. F*** Mannie – 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall Sept 2015 (8B&C)

5. Let’s Douche This – 19 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 10.01.2015 (6B&C)

Bolted by Morne van der Mescht.

6. Save Yourself – 19 26m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 10.01.2015 (T)

Up broken ramp below huge overhanging open book. Up the open book to belay in the bush above.

7. La Douche Douche – 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.01.2015 (7B&C)

8. Rock Man-ehr – 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 24.01.2015 (T)

Shit line that starts on slabs R of La Douche Douche. Trend R & up on easy ground to a tree belay.

3 65La Douche

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Apple Express

This is directly below the train bridge on the PE side. Enter the municipal water affairs area; about 25m after

the gate turn L onto a track. Follow this to behind some worker’s housing. Park about 30m from the bridge.

Walk down on the upstream side of the

bridge. Move under the bridge to a

scramble & then abseil from bridge struts.

30m abseil. Walk out over rough terrain in

upstream & downstream directions.

1. The Headless Children – 22

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 12.12.2010

(7B&C)

2. Apple On Crack – 24

Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold 11.11.2005

(6B&C)

Extended by Derek Marshall.

3. The Last Command – 25

Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 12.12.2010

(7B&C)

4. St Franco of van Stadens - 19

Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs

09.12.2005 (T)

L trending diagonal open book. Derek

bailed on loose rock before the anchor.

5. Puma – 25 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 09.08.2010 (11B&C)

Bolted by Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs. Extended by Juan-Dray Marshall.

6. The Brute – 24 Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs Dec 2007 (3B&C)

7. Save Us – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester March 2008 (T)

Up between the bolted lines. Zig-zag to the ledge below & L of the abseil point.

8. The Apprentice – 19 Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs 05.11.2005 (7B&C)

9. Strange it May seem – 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 23.04.2016 (T&C)

Up L trending L facing open book, trend L onto anchors of The Apprentice.

10. Towards Silence – 18 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold 05.11.2005 (11B&C)

11. Expressional – 19 Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs 09.11.2005 (T)

Up to R of Apple Express, into R trending break. Stop at the chains of Apple Express.

12. Come out & Play – 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 23.04.2016 (T&C)

Up 3m R of Towards Silence, basically directly up through the most blank clean part, moving a bit L at the top to the chains of

Expressional.

13. 17 in the Dark! – 17 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold 22.10.2005 (T)

Trad line up slightly bushy L facing open book. Climbs past a few bushes then past a L trending diagonal crack system. Franco

finished this route in the dark.

14. The Fire Burns On – 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 23.04.2016 (T)

Up L trending L facing open book. About 9m up break out R onto a ledge up over easy ground, then over a bit of a neck & up the

edge of the main face to belay above the abseil anchors.

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Apple ExpressAbseil

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The following routes are about 60m upstream of Apple Express.

15. Closed Project – 22-ish Derek Marshall

16. Closed Project – 24-ish Juan-Dray Marshall

Troll

Park as for Apple Express. Walk over the train bridge. 15m after the end of the bridge find a vague path on the LH side. Follow

the path directly under the bridge. At the slight scramble at the base of the 2nd trestle (Troll Boulder), find a path down to Troll.

1. Cows Life – 26 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle Dec 2008 (10B&C)


2. Troll – 34 Adam & Miraslav Ondra 21.07.2009 (10B&C)


Yes, that is correct. Adam Ondra opened this second go during the 2009 Rock & Road. This is before he went to Prophet’s

Cave, which he said was totally & absolutely awesome, before he cut his hand & wimpered.

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Troll


Trek Africa

100m before entering the water affairs gate turn L. Follow this road over the railway line in the direction of the

gorge. Park under some gum trees at the edge of the gorge. This is about 350m downstream of the rail bridge. Find a path at the

edge of the houses. Follow this down for about 90m to a steel cable which assist the decent. Scramble in an upstream direction

to the crag. Routes recorded as you walk-in from the steel cable.

1. Savage Union – 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10.12.2005 (T)

Ramp to R or Frankie Doodle.

2. Solitude – 17 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold 11.11.2005 (5B&C)

3. The Life – 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10.12.2005 (T)

Vague crack system to L of Frankie Doodle.

4. Where the Sinners Go – 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 14.05.2011 (8B&C)

5. Trek Africa – 18 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold 11.11.2005 (7B&C)

6. Are You Metal – 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10.12.2005 (T)

Broken stepped ramp to between the ears.

7. Mr Madman – 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 10.12.2005 (T)

Indistinct easy break.

8. Ocean Cry – 14 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 2006 (T)

Indistinct easy ramp.

9. Stupid Mankind – 14 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 2006 (T)

Indistinct & easy ramble.

10. The Sage – 19 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 2006 (T)

Up a wondering line that moves above the overhanging cave, then back R to the top.

11. Closed Project – 24 Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C)

12. Helldorado – 26 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C)

13. Closed Project – 27 Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C)

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Trek Africa


Flower Reserve

At picnic area take path to Lookout. This is the most upstream path. Cut off L after 50m then down about 80m,

the “path” runs under an easy looking crag.

1. Olive Branch – 15 32m Derek & Caroline Marshall 15.03.2015

Up easy break on lower portion. Zigzag to find poor gear. Up ramp arête to belay from tree on top.

2. Reconciliation – 14 36m Derek & Caroline Marshall 15.03.2015

Up easy looking stepped break, onto bottom of ramp arête. Traverse over ramp to find gear in overlap. Up to belay from

tree on top.

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First Slabs


Woodridge | School Rocks

Set on the grounds of Woodridge Collage, the prestigious private school, School Rocks is the best beginner’s

crag in the Port Elizabeth area. Open Book is undoubtedly the best sport 19 on the PE circa. Access is strictly

controlled. Woodridge has staunch security, locked gates, high electric fences, serious guards…that patrol. Access is a

bit sensitive, but it is possible via the correct channels & with proper arrangements. Please do take any chances & just

rock up, this approach will not work as Woodridge has proper security. You will be turned away. For now please contact

Derek Marshall [email protected] to make arraignments.

1. Monkey Style – 13 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 04.02.2017 (T)

Up the easy R facing open book.

2. Fideliter - 19 Derek Marshall & John Alexander 28.06.2015 (5B&C)

3. Matopos – 19 Derek Marshall & John Alexander 28.06.2015 (5B&C)

4. Founders – 20 Gordon Munro & Che Freese 08.02.2015 (6B&C)

5. Kohler – 19 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 08.02.2015 (5B&C)

6. Alexander – 19 Derek & Caroline Marshall 16.03.2015 (5B&C)

7. Bains - 14 Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit 08.02.2015 (T)

R facing groove open book.

8. Crane - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 11.10.2015 (3B&C)

9. Ball - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 11.10.2015 (3B&C)

Flower Resurve

Van Stadens Pass

Security Gate/ Guard

House

School Rocks

Park

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mailto:[email protected]


10. Cadle’s Hotel - 13 Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit 08.02.2015 (T)

R facing groove open book.

11. Eric The Red – 14 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 04.02.2017 (4B&C)

12. Týr - 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 04.02.2017 (4B&C)

13. Faithfully – 15 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-Dray Marshall 08.02.2015 (T)

Start 2m R of The Pin. Up R facing open book, directly up to R of tree.

14. The Pin – 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 08.02.2015 (7B&C)


15. Veld ‘n Vlei – 23 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13.03.2016 (7B&C)

16. Old Woodrigen – 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall 16.03.2015 (4B&C)

17. No Regrets – 16 Derek & Caroline Marshall 14.02.2015 (4B&C)

18. Castle Crack – 16 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 03/05/1981 (T)

Prominent fist/hand crack.

19. Open Book – 19 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 11.01.2015 (7B&C)

20. Fortress – 19 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 03/05/1981 (T)

Prominent crack that splits into 3 near the top.

21. Dead Shot George – 19 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 08.02.2015 (7B&C)

Bolted by Patrick Brown.

22. The Leap – 19 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 11.01.2015 (6B&C)

23. Mobilitate Vincere – 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 25.01.2015 (5B&C)

24. Eye of the Fire Storm – 24 Juan-Dray Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 08.02.2015 (5B&C)


25. Spook – 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall 16.03.2015 (5B&C)

The following routes are below & about 70m L of School Rocks.

26. Bloodflower – 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 01.05.2017 (4B&C)

27. Demon You Lily Anne – 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 01.05.2017 (T)

Startup R facing open book, through the tiny overhang then up the break. Top out to tree abseil.

28. Bully Lashing the Bully – 19 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 01.05.2017 (5B&C)

29. Be Cruel To Your School – 17 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall 01.05.2017 (4B&C)

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Slayer

Follow the Ho Chi Min Trail down to the river. About 150m downstream.

1. Closed Project – 24-ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall.

P1 –

P2 -

2. The Bloody Reign of Slayer – 23 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24.09.2016

P1 – 23 – 38m (16B&C)

P2 – 22 – 16m (7B&C)

3. Decade of Aggression - 22 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 21.08.2016

P1 – 22 – 28m (15B&C)

P2 – 22 – 22m 13B&C)

4. Closed Project – 24-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall.

5. Seasons in the Abyss – 22 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 21.08.2016

P1 – 19 – 27m (15B&C)

P2 – 22 – 27m (15B&C)

6. You Against You – 19 27m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24.09.2016 (11B&C)


7. Raining Blood – 20 27m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24.09.2016 (16B&C)



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P2

Slayer

P2

P2

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Raven Age

Follow the Ho Chi Min Trail down to the river. Cross the river immediately & walk up the tributary kloof for

300m. Raven Age is a short ribbon of rock about 25m above the stream bed.

1. Eye Among the Blind – 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28.05.2016 (T)

About 10m L of the most L sport line, up the most distinct trad line. Not too great.

2. The Darkness Will Rise – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29.05.2016 (4B&C)


3. Salem’s Fate – 23 Derek Marshall & Gordon Munro 07.08.2016 (6B&C)


5. Angel in Disgrace – 19 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 11.06.2016 (5B&C)


7. Uprising – 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11.06.2016 (5B&C)

8. Death March – 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06.08.2016 (4B&C)

9. My Revenge – 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06.08.2016 (5B&C)

10. The Merciful One – 20 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 11.06.2016 (3B&C)

11. Dark of the Day - 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11.06.2016 (4B&C)

12. Promised Land – 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11.06.2016 (5B&C)

13. I Am Back – 17 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 06.08.2016 (5B&C)

14. Closed Project – 25-ish Bolted by Terence Trevaskis.

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Documents

1 Updated 18/05/2017 © Derek Marshall · 2017. 5. 18. · Gevegsgereed – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 23.02.2013 (6B&C) 23. Protean – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout