8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

1/44

(J Reed Exhlbltions'~v W_. t,~~ \\~K,(JOsrne

www.in-cosm

berkem~ S ee p a g e 3 4f o r f u rt h er d e ta il s

http://www.in-cosm/http://www.in-cosm/

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

2/44

Lubrizol Carbopot" AquaPolymersz~o'l.o:JQ_()oc -o"0ooC DC Dc o~Q_aQ_C D3oir8.--

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

3/44

(J . . Reed Exh i bi ti o n s "Organ ls ar s o f I n- cosmet ic s 2010Ga teway House , 28 T he Quadra nt , Ri chmond , Sur re y, TW91DN, UKT: +44 ( 0) 2 0 8910 7976F: +44(0)2089107926E: incosteamCreedexpo.co.ukW: www.in-cosmetics.oomA"":r\o~,? 0'

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

4/44

22

ContentsBreaking all recordsin -co sm et ics d efie d e co no mic cr is is to d elive r are co rd -b re ak in g s ho w4 Key Show Statistics

Coming Back for MoreSuccess Stories

Educational Programme ReviewThe actio n-packed program me p rov ided anunm issable opp ortunity to bru sh up on the la tests cie nt ific a nd m a rk et in g k no w le dg e10 Marketing Trends Presentations14 in-focus fashion20 Innovation Zone22 Workshops & SeminarsLifetime Achievement Award22 And the winner is Dr. KhaiatProduct NewsH un dre ds o f n ew in gre die nts , te ch no lo gie s, an dfo rm ula tio n s w ere show cased at th e show24 Exhibitor LaunchesMarket Place36 Web Connects38 Essential Contactsin-cosmetics AsiaB ig ge r an d b ette r, in -co sm etics A siare tu rn s to B an gk ok40 Key Show Highlights

s:-~core 1 ' n Q r . C !Do ro\~'o~t;osmewww.in-cosmetics.com

S e e p a g e 3 4f o r f u r t h e r d e l H i ls

I~ ~ t i t I I I '

http://www.in-cosmetics.com/http://www.in-cosmetics.com/

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

5/44

ff i Bayer MaterialSc ience

G IVE YOUR FORMULA T ION STAR APPE A L!

E B B A Y C U S A N " POLYUR ETHANES FOR COSMET ICS

Experiencea multi-talent with fascinating radiance: Baycusan'" - the pioneering polyurethane polymer as a film former and sensoryadditive for your cosmetic products, With Baycusan"', the secret of beauty now lies in the mix, Easy-to-formulate Baycusan'" offerstailor-made properties for your specific application. Dazzling appearance, a more pleasant feel and optimal hold: Color cosmetics,skin andsun careproducts aswell ashairstyling with Baycusan'"offer perfect performance. Foraseductive look andbreathtaking styllng,Cu rio us ? T h e n v is it u s a t ww w.bayercosmetics.comorcontactusatcosmetics@bayerm aterialsclence.com.

mailto:www.bayercosmetics.comorcontactusatcosmetics@bayermaterialsclence.com.mailto:www.bayercosmetics.comorcontactusatcosmetics@bayermaterialsclence.com.

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

6/44

KehdShow Statistics7,807*UniqueVisitor[+27% on 2007]

575Exhibitors[+10% on 2007]

13,401Total VisitorAttendance[includes re-visits]

10,265m2StandSpace[+28% on 2007]

97%ExhibitorsSatisfied88%VisitorsSatisfied

*Audi ted by ABC (www.abc.org.uk)ABC Cer ti fi ca t ion , t he i ndus tr y s t anda rd p rov i di ngindependent ver if i ca t ion of t he n umber o f v is it or s

Breaking all records WATCH Ii]Show Video

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

7/44

Coming Backfor More!86% of the 2010 visitors* believe that in-cosmetics is a must-attend event So much so, that many religiously have attendedthe show for several consecutive years. How do they think theshow evolved over time? What makes them return?To understand this, we spoke to the following visitors

E u ni ce B la ck m o re ,C h em ic al S u pp ly T e ch no lo gi st ,U n il ev er [ UK ]

I h ave b ee n v is itin g in -co sm etics s in ce it s ta rte d 20years ago and it has certa inly evolved a great deals in ce th en , w hich is n't s urpris in g g ive n h ow m uchthe industry has developed over the years. M y m ainfo cu s w hen I a ttend is sB sing th e supp lie rs , and ithas a~ays been great for that.

I'm re ally g lad th at in -co sm etics n o lo nge rcom pe tes w ith ano th e r show in Eu rope so tha te ve ryo ne - s upp lie rs an d v is ito rs a like - d on 't h aveto split the ir time - or budget - and I c an beassured that nearly everyone is there. It's good tooto S88 th e n um be r o f n on -E uro pe an s upp lie rsin creas ing to o, so th a t th is is b ecom ing a tru lyg lo ba l e ve nt .

Be in g ab le to see a ll o f our key supp lie rs in onep lace is e xtre me ly co nve nie nt, an d ce rta in ly m ake sfo r a m uch m ore p le as urab le a lb eit e xh aus tin g trip !I use the event as an opportunity to build on there la tio ns hip s th at I a lre ad y h ave . O f c ou rse , it'sin te res ting to see n ew com pan ies , bu t m y m ainob jective - and ultim ately the m ain reason w hy I g oto a sho w like in -cosm et ics - is th e ab ility it a ffo rdsm e to m ee t w ith m ultip le s upp lie rs in a re la tive lys ho rt s pace o f tim e.

T he y s ay th at p artic ip atin g in e xh ib IT io ns is th em os t e ffic ien t to o l in th e m arke ting m ix , and I h aveto say , I a gree . Show s like in -co sm etics prov ide m eW IT h an opportunity to m eet all of m y supplier basein one go , w h ich in m y k ind o f jo b , is in va luab le. Soif I h ad to sum up the even t in one sen tence ,I w ou ld s ay in -co sm etics d elive rs an e xtre me lye ffic ie nt m ea ns o f m ee tin g a ll o f th e k ey s up plie rsfro m th e g lo ba l p ers on al c are in gre die nts in du stry inju st three da ys. You can't ask for m ore than that.

A nd re as C la us en ,G roup M anager R &DB eie rs do rf A G [G er ma ny ]

I h ave b ee n v is itin g in -co sm etics fo r th e las t s ixyears and the sh ow has really evolved since then .T he m ain d iffe re nce th at I h av e n otic ed is re ga rd in gthe quality - and quantity - of suppliers present.They seem to be m uch m o re se r ious and se t o ndo in g bus in ess th an be fo re , w hich is grea t fo rv is it or s lik e m e .

T he educatio na l p rogram me is an oth e r area th ath as re ally d eve lo pe d o ve r t he y ea rs . P re se nt atio nsin th e S em in ar T he atre a re e xtre me ly in fo rm ativ eand offer v is itors a huge opp ortunity to get to gripsw ith th e ve ry la te st tre nd s an d d eve lo pm en tss we ep in g th e in du stry .

But for m e one of the best features at the showis th e In no vatio n Zo ne . T he In no vatio n Zo nee nc ap su la te s e ve ry th in g th at th e s ho w is a bo ut:c uttin g-e dg e p ro du ct cre ativ ity. I ca n sp en d a t le as tan hour taking in all the d evelopm ents andu nd ers ta nd in g h ow th ey co uld b sn ettt th e in du stry.A nd this is absolutely key to m y role.

On e o f th e m ain reaso ns I a ttend in -co sm etics isfo r th e rich ve in o f in novatio n th a t I know I w ill fin dthere. O f co urs e, its g re at to ca tch -up w ith e xis tin ga nd lo ng -s ta nd in g co nta cts , th e b ig p la ye rs w illa lwaye be at shows like this. But what I f ind m ostu se fu l is th e la rg e n um b er o f s ma lle r fir st-tim ee xh ib ito rs p re se nt e ve ry ye ar fro m all o ve r th e w orld .It's the one chance I h ave to find out about thele sse r known d eve lopm en ts so I devo te a lo t o f tim eto m ak ing new con tac ts to o.

Fo r m e, in -co sm etics is a ll ab ou t e ffic ie ncy . I cans ee m ore e xis tin g an d po te ntia l s upp lie rs in th eth ree -day show than I eve r cou ld do in an y o th e rb us in ess trip . A t th e sam e tim e I can educatem ys eW o n th e v ery la te st tre nd s a nd re gu la tio ns ,updating m y own vis ion o f th e m arke t and what's tocom e . If I h ad to sum marise th e show in onesen ten ce , I w ou ld say it p rov ides th e on lyo pp ortu nity to m ee t th e g lo ba l c os me tic s up plie rb ase in th re e d ay s.

Tony Westwood,Ma rk et M a na g er ,W ardel C hem icals urnnao [U K]

I h ave a tte nd ed e ve ry in -co sm etics fo r th e las t n in eyears , b ar o ne , and ove r th at pe r iod h ave beenin te re ste d in h ow th e s ho w h as d ev elo pe d. D esp itev ario us e co no mic a nd fin an cia l c ris es , I b elie ve th er ehas been a s tead y in crease in th e qua lity andq ua ntity o f e xh ib ito rs p re se ntin g th eir p ro du cts a ndth e o rgan is atio n ju st g ets b et te r an d b ette r e ach ye ar.

T he re are th ree m ain reasons beh ind m y dec is io nto a tte nd in -co sm et ics e ach ye ar.

F irs tly , I m ee t u p w ith e xis tin g su pp lie rs ; a ll th em ain com pan ies are a t th e show so it's a greato pp or tu nit y t o catch-up w ith th em and ge t th e low -d ow n o n th eir la te st d ev elo pm en ts .

S econdly, it is a g reat opportunity to m eet w ithn e w s u pp li er s . As you wo u ld exp ect w ith an even tas la rge as in -cosm et ics , eve ry year th e re is a ra ft o fn ew co mpan ie s th at h ave n't participated before,w h ich m akes v is itin g th e show so m uch m oree njo ya ble . T he re 's n oth in g b ette r th an s pe nd in gth re e d ays s co urin g th e s ho w flo or fo r in no vat io nsand finding exactly what you want at the end of it.

Th ird ly , I m ee t a num ber o f cus tom ers andn etw or k w it h o ld fr ie nd s.

Fo r m e, v is it in g in -co sm etics is a h uge lye co no mica l e xe rc is e. In jus t th re e d ays , it is po ss ib leto m ee t a n um ber o f po ten tia l n ew supp lie rs ,e spe cia lly th os e w ith n ew an d e xc itin gdevelopm ents that cou ld add a point of d ifferenceto th e bu s in ess . No o th e r channe l w ou ld enab le usto see so m any com pan ies in such a sho rt pe r iod o ftim e in o ne p lace .

In sho rt, in -co sm etics is th e bes t p lace to m ee tW ITh b oth existing and new suppliers plus theopportunity to ca tch up w ith friends. You can learna lot in three days.

. . s ou r ce : 2010 visitor survey

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

8/44

Success S torhdInternationa ISpecia lthd Productsin-cosmetics celebrated its 20th anniversary this year with ashow-stopping event at the Paris Porte de Versailles. But it wasn'tjust the organisers who were busy putting on an exhibition thateveryone would remember for years to comeFor the exhibitors, the celebration provided a great opportunity toreally go to town on their own promotion, and one company didjust that. in-cosmetics caught up with James Mish, Senior VicePresident, ISPto find out how the show went for them

Why did you decide to exhibit atin-cosmetics?As a supplier of many ingredients tothe p erson al care in du stry, it w ou ldbe remiss if we developed newingredients without telling the story

behind our products. Now more than ever, a greatdeal of research goes into thedevelopment of new ingredients.B efo re n ew ing re die nts a rec omm erc ia lis ed , b en efits n se dto be established in-v ivo or in-vitro. A nd the ing re dien ts ne edto be considered I validatedwithin the context of ful lyformulated products. All thisinformation takes time tocommunicate. in-cosmeticsis the kind of venue w hereattendees wil l take thet ime to learn about thedetai ls of novelin gre die nts . G iv en th atISP offers some fairlysoph is ti ca ted i ng red ien ts ,and ingredient packages,in-cosmetics isan idealv en ue to m se t withcustomers and p rospec tsa nd to b eg in a c on ve rs atio nabout the vast potentia l ofnovel ingredients in finished formulations.

of these questions face-to-face with the world'sleading producers of personal care products.At this year's show, we elected to answer these

quest ions interms of innovat ion by showing andtel ling attendees how ISP serves the industrythrough innovation. We achieved our essentialobjective at in-cosmetics , that is to say, we showed

111111, how our offerings providemarketers the means to meet

What did you present at the show?At in-cosmetics 2010, we said ISP Personal Care is'changing the game' with innovations that form thefoundation of market leading products. Virtual lyeverywhere attendees looked, they found ISPinnovations. New biofunctional ingredients weremade available at the ISP Hair Care Innovation Pod.Three novel products for consumer hair careaddress options inthe areas of strength (Dynagen'"),vitality (Gapauxein"j and protection (Protectagen"j.At ISP's Skin Gare Innovation Pod, new anti-agingstrategies were presented along with newingredients, suchas Chronogen""tetrapeptide, anovelbiofunctionaldesigned toaddress theepigeneticexpression of clock genes. At ISP's AcrylatesInnovat ion Pod, we asked attendees to take a freshlook at the unique functionali ty Acrylates bring topersonal care formulations. And, at ISP'sEncapsulation Pod, new ideas were unfolded withour Captivates" microcapsules and microbeads.At the in-cosmetics Innovation Zone, we showed

ground-breaking products with potential forsustained proteasome efficacy of skin (ProlixirS200), improved skin barrier function (Stratixyl'),improved skin cell water channeling (Osrnollna"),broad spectrum UV protection (Escalol OS)andbroad spectrum preservation (Optiphen" MIT Ultra).

~ LeadingVOI.I'to.Innovation

What activities d id you undertake at the event?Inaddition to our exhibit ions and presentations, weheld a press conference at in-cosmetics 2010. We

How did the show help you introduced a number of new ingredients for hair andachieve these objectives? skin care products and we presented scenariosWe strongly believe product where these novel ingredients will be beneficial inmanufacturers that adopt targeted formulations. Behind these new ingredientinnovat ive ingredients will fo rm launches are strong research programmes andthe foundation they need to leading edge science. in-cosmetics is an ideal

produce and sell market venue from which to show and tell the trade pressleading products. Whether how R&D and science lead to new and bettermanufacturers target the options for the industry.prestige or mass markets,

..... _ innovations can 'change What is the best thing about the show for you?the game' in virtually any At the end of the day, we beli9V9 in-cosmetics is allp roduct category. That's about bu ilding strong re lationships with customerswhy we elected to exhibit who may one day become our customers.at various points on the Understanding the culture of our customers andshow floor from what are responding to customers' needs in terms they

known as innovation pods. understand is critical to the long-term success ofWITh distinct pods, we supplier Imanufacturer relationships. With strongaddressed specific ties, we can be a partner to our customers in a way

innovations in hair care, skin care and sun care that that is productive and rewarding for both suppliermay be possible with novel new ingredients fromISP.With innovation come new opportunities toformulate novel products.in-cosmetics is structured insuch a way that we

can show innovations on the trade show f loor andalso participate in seminars, such as this year'sinnovation seminar, to provide concepts for movingnew innovations into the marketplace. Sponsorshipof the in-cosmetics Innovat ion Zone and the carpettiles further reinforced our message that ISPinnovation is everywhere.

What were you hoping to achieve by exhibitingat in-cosmetics?One of the most interest ing aspects aboutin-cosmetics isthat i t is global, where industryprofessionals from all over the world converge inone place to f ind out what's new, what is possible,what the next product trend may be. It is a lsointeresting to discover what new ingredients mayexist to engender entirely new categories ofproducts. ISP has a vested interest in answering all

and manufacturer. At in-cosmetics, the ISP PersonalCare team can take the time to learn more aboutthe needs of customers in a somewhat informalenvironment. Often, i t isthe l ittle stories customerstel l at their leisure that make all the dif ference inthewor ld. The ISP Personal Care team is more thanhappy to hear these stor ies dur ing in-cosmetics andlearn how we can serve our customers better in thefuture and ensure our goals and objectives areessential ly in l ine with the needs of the personalcare industry.

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

9/44

T M

S e d e rm a S A S T e l + 3 3 1 34 8 4 10 1 0 F ax + 33 1 3 4 84 1 1 30 e m a i l s e d e r m a @ s e d e r m a . f rS e d e rm a G m b H T e l - t4 9 2 1 5 78 17 31 8 F ax - t4 9 2 1 5 78 17 36 1 e m a il s e d e rm a @ s e d e rm a . d eC ro da E ur o pe L t d T e l- t 4 41 4 05 86 05 51 F ax + 4 4 14 05 86 02 05 e m a il p c - e u r o p e @ c r o d a . c o mw w w . s e d e r m a . f r w w w . c r o d a . c o m / e u r o p e / p c

In no va t io n yo u can b uild on

mailto:sederma@sederma.frmailto:sederma@sederma.demailto:pc-europe@croda.comhttp://www.sederma.fr/http://www.croda.com/europe/pchttp://www.croda.com/europe/pchttp://www.sederma.fr/mailto:pc-europe@croda.commailto:sederma@sederma.demailto:sederma@sederma.fr

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

10/44

Succe s s Stor~Mibe l le Biochemistr~2010 was always going to be a busy year for Mibelle Biochemistry,not least because in the first four months alone, the companydecided to launch not one, but three brand new products ontothe market; PhytoCellTecN Alp Rose, Oelentigo'" and MAXnoliaA c ha lle ng e b y a ny re aso na bly c on fid en to rg an is at io n's s ta nd ard s, b ut th is w as c om po un de deven fu rther by the fact that the com pany hadsch eduled the launches to take pla ce ati n -cosmet ics . If th ere w as n't a lre ad y e no ug hp lan nin g go in g on around th e s how , th e n th erecerta inly was com e 20t O .

Prepara tio ns fo r th e s ho w s tarted back in Ap ri l2 009 , as in -cosm etics Mun ich w as c lo s in g itsdo ors. K now ing the 20t 0 instalm ent w ould providethe platform to launch one of the biggest projects inth e co mpan y's h is to ry , an d re co gn is in g th eim po rta nc e o f c om m un ic atin g t his c om pr eh en siv elyW IT h th e in du st ry , th e t ea m a t M ib elle B io ch em is tryd ec id ed th is w as th e year to in ves t in a w ide -ran gin g e xh ib ito r s up po rt p ro gra mm e. In o rd er tom ax im is e th e ir p res ence ah ead o f th e sh ow and en -s i ts , th e co mpany se lec te d an in te gra ted o nlin e ando nsite p ro mo tio na l p ac ka ge th at w ou ld fu rth ere xte nd th e r ea ch o f th eir c om m un ic atio ns .

D uring the three m onths leading up to th e event,M ib elle B io ch em is try c om m is sio ne d s po ns ore dartic le s in a n um be r o f p re -s ho w e -n ew sle tte rsw hich w ere issued to the database of 20,00 0+in du stry pro fs ss io na is . A t th e s am e tim e, th ecom pan y e lec ted to have a skys crape r b ann ersrun nin g on th e in -c osm etics w ebs ite 's ho mepage asw ell a s a no th er b an ne r d isp la ye d in th e w eb site 'sp r odu ct d ir e ct or y .

se e th e n ew p ro ducts . We inve s ted a g rea t d ea l ind eve lo pin g th e in gre die nts th em se lvs s, s o it m ad es en se th at w e m arke te d th em to th eir fu ll p ote ntia l.A nd the re really isn't anything quite like a launch a tin -c o sm etics , in te rm s o f t he re tu rn yo u ge t and th ei nv al ua b le e x po s ur e .

B ut th e co mpa ny 's cam pa ign w as n't ju st lim ite dto p re -sh ow p ro mo tio n. Th ere w as , o f co urse , th e56m 2 s tand on th e s how floo r a s w e ll as a p riva tem ee t ing roo m that th e com pany re se rved fo r th ed ura tio n o f th e s ho w. In a dd itio n, M ib elleB iochem istry rea lly sa w the value of ta king a box inth e In no vat io n Zo ne to d is play i ts un iqu ein gr ed ie nt s, a s B ea ta H urs t e xp la in ed :

"B ein g in vo lve d in th e In no vat io n Zo ne w as an o-b ra in er fo r u s. T he p er so na l c ar e in gre die ntsindu s try is on e o f t he m os t p ro gress ive ou t th ere ,an d to su ccee d, com pan is s have to dem on stra teth at th ey a re a t th e fo re fro nt o f c uttin g-e dg ein no vat io n. W e prid e o urs elve s o n d es ig nin g th em os t cre ative a ctive s fo r th e co sm etic in dus try a ndn eed ed an ou tle t to s how case th e se - an d th eIn no vat io n Zo ne w as ju st rig ht ."

Su ccs ss a t s ho ws like in -co sm etics is d epe nd en to n th e v is io n an d co mm itm en t o f th e exh ib it in gteam . H av ing exc itin g new s to s hare doe s , o fco urs e, m ake pro mo tio na l ac tiv itie s a ll th e m orea pp ea lin g, b ut it is e ss en tia l to id en tify , s et a nds tric tly fo llo w a s tra te gy to m ax im is e yo ur im pact

fro m th e o uts et , d elive rin g o ne~------------_j_------.. sim ple ou tcom e w hen thes ho w d oo rs o pe n: p ro sp ectsto th e sta nd .

A nd th at is c erta in ly th ere su lt M ib elle B io ch em is try w asho p in g fo r - and ach iev ed inspades - at th is year's e vent.D urin g th e th re e-d ay p er io d,th e com pany m et w ith m oreth an 3 40 vis ito rs a nd is h op in gto con ve rt a go od n um ber o fle ad s in to a ctu al b us in es s. Infa ct, th ere h av e a lre ad y b ee ns om e in te re st in g d is cu ss io n s

In cosmetics group r ~ : - ' a \e-newslerrer '~I B ! I I ! I I ! ! ! i ~

1l1I~11e~t.h!!I1E~

~.;~~:i~~'~;j~:~~~t[:t::~~~.~fo r r I J I o . . .. . . t."\'kr:uJ:i"'_

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

11/44

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

12/44

in -co sm etics c ele bra te d 2 0 y ears o fin no va tio n in the co sm etics an dto ile trie s in du stry w ith its b ig ge st e ve rt re nd s p re se nt at io ns p ro gr amme,Innovation w as at the heart of m anyo f th e p re se nta tio ns , w hic h

dem onstrated how advances in technology, newfo rm ula tio ns a nd ing red ien ts h av e tra nsla te d in to th ela tes t c os metic p ro duc ts, Y ea r afte r y ea r, th e a nn ualm arketing trends presentations are a m ajor draw form an y v is ito rs a nd b eco min g in cre asin gly p op ula rw i th b ra nd deci si on -maker s.

Impact of Recessions on the CaT MarketAnna Ibbotson, Industry Manager , Kl ineR ec es sio ns ha ve ha d a sign ific an t im pa ct o n th ep ers on al c ar e m ark ets , a cc ord in g to Ib bo ts on ,although there have been high spots along the way.K lin e d ata s how s th at skin ca re , fo r ex am ple, h asp ro ve d to b e re as on ab ly re ce ss io n-p ro of a ndcurrent ly accounts for 28% of the global $300bn C&Tmarket with growth of 5.6% between 2004-09. Inherpresentation, Ibbotson used the US as a case studyfo r th e fiv e m ajo r re ce ss io ns s in ce 1 97 0. " Sk in ca rewas the on~ category to show any growth duringr ec es sio n, w hile fr ag ra nc e w as th e m os t a ffe cte d,"she explained. Kline's theory isthat the fortunes ofthe C &T m arkets are linked to an increase in w om eninthe labour roroe. "The markets need growth inw om en joining the w orkforce to counter the effects ofthe recession," affirmed Ibbotson.

"In nov atio n ca n p ro vid e th e s tim ulu s fo rrec ove ry ", s he m ainta ine d, g iv in g e xa mp le s o fp ro du cts , c ate go ries a nd re ta il c ha nn els w hic h ha veperformed wel l over the past two years. Theyin clud e h and sa nitize rs , la un ch ed in re sp on se to th eSwine Flu outbreak, and home skincare gadgetsw hic h m irro r de vic es u se d in th e p ro fe ss io na ls ec to r, In te rm s o f d istrib utio n, o nline sa le s, h om eshopping lV and vertically integrated special tystores are all boom ing. "W e are seeing a globalc han ge in co nsu me r b eha vio ur w ith p eop le a ctiv elyseeking out natural products. I believe they mayrepresent the next growth plalform for the personalcare industry," predicted Ibbotson.

The State of the Global Beauty Industry:Enter ing a New ChapterIrina Barbalova, Industry Manager, CIT,Euromonitor InternationalThe recession m ay be over, m aintained IrinaB arbalova, w ho cla im ed in her presentation that thebottom has been reached. Highl ights include China,India and Indonesia which account for 28% ofgrow th in 2010. However, R ussia, one of the orig inalfas t-growing BRICs has been affected by therecession as it is very dependent on the com moditym arket. Japan is one of the slowest of the m ajorm ark ets to re co ve r. E as tern E uro pe , u p un tilrecently fas t-growing, has proved to be a majordisappointment. The fastest growth has come fromLatin America, the Middle East and Indonesia,which is dubbed by many as the next BRIC. Brazilis now the third largest market globally, wherefra gra nc e is a d riv in g fo rc e.

"M anufacturers are faced w ith a change in thec ons um er m ind se t," e xp la in ed B arba lo va , w ho sa idthat consum ers look out for coupons to save

Marketing TrendsReviewed by Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics

" " 'makinq] !II : > -le i

Clc:'iiito

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

13/44

Cosmetic Sparks: Kindling InnovationHinako Sugioka, Senior Consultant, MintelMintel has noted that consumers' reaction to therecession has been to enjoy more beauty time.Consumers are looking for unique textures and hightechnology in home spa treatments; they aredownsizing but still expect functional benefrts fromtheir cosmetic products; they want time savingproduct benefrtsto fit inWIThheir buey lifestyles. Mintelresearch shows that 10% of women stopped going tospas lastyear,whi le 6% cut down on their usage. Thisleaves81% who didn't previous~ use them.Hinako Sugioka highl ighted key emerging trends

WIThexamples from Mintel's global new productsdatabase (gnpd). Multi-functional beauty productsare growing in response to the increase inworkingwomen and who are looking for t ime-saving dev icesand products. Transforming products are anothert rend direction, such as massage gels that becomea warm oil on applicat ion and then r insed off . Theseare very popular in Japan, such as the Pola AglairaWarm Up Massage Gel. A f irst in cosmetics , isclaimed by Anne Semonin Eye Express RadianceIce Cube, wh ich is designed to be put into thefreezer and applied to the eyes when wrapped ingauze. DIY formulations are also catching on, whichallow consumers to mix products themselves."Consumers don't want to talk about the

recession and are enjoying playing with productsand textures. This l inks to Mintel's Mood Beautyand Beauty Food trends," stated Sugioks. "Therecession has made us all smarter shoppers."

Fashion and Beauty Industries: Common Stakesand Crossed FatesMaryel le Al lemand, Senior Marketing ProjectManager, Cariin InternationalFashion designers have been influencing the beautyindustry since Paul Poi re t inthe 191Os/20s. "Eachhad his own personal Signature," sxplained MaryelleAllemand. Examples she gave included CocoChanel's use of tweed, Jean Paul Gaultier's iconicsailor strips, Elsa Schiaparelli's Shocking Pink andGiorgio Armani's Greige. Allemand gave aretrospective of key fashion designers starting fromthe 1970s, described as the "liberating years" whensexy, assert ive women started to be used inadvertising. The 1980s were the expressive years,WIThbold maks-up {Dior 's strong colours} andstatement perfume {Poison}. The 1990s were theminimal ist years when cult products YSl ToucheEclat and Chanel Rouge Nai r nai l polish wereborn. The Noughties were descr ibed as theambivalence years , when we saw the success ofmineral make-up, Juicy Tubes l ip glosses andPhenomen'Eyes mascara.Allemand described how fashion and beauty

have "shared stakes" in two areas: seduction anddreams and innovation and surprise. Comingthrough strongly in both isa trend for electric blue.Also materials and textures share similarit ies with atrend for nudes and second skin-style products.Sustainabil ity is an area which cuts across bothindustr ies. "Fashion trends are driving innovation inbeauty," concluded Allemand, who cited the TrendBook as one of the most important tools ins tar tingany new collection.

CSR & Sustainability Initia tives: How is theBeauty Industry Clean ing Up?Fanny Fagot-Coste, Research Consultant,Organic MonitorSustalnabflty and CSR have become big buzzwords and should not be separated from businessstrategy, maintained Fanny Fagot-Coste. Recently,there has been pressure for the beauty industry to"clean up", coming from the media, NGO's, the r iseof ethical consumerism, market forces such asclimate change, and supply chain legislation.Walmart has stated that i twill be adver tis ing thesustainabil ity of all beauty products from 2015."These days, beauty companies are looking to

the envi ronmental impact of cosmet ics and not justmake organic claims," said Fagot-Coste.Companies are using green chemistry and makingconcentrates leg Lush sol id shampoo}. Biodiversityis also on the agenda as companies look toreintroduce plants in cosmetics to avoid extinction.Sustainable packaging isanother growing issue ascompanies look to reduce, reuse and recycle.Alternatives to petroleum based resins are beinginvestigated, such as biopolymers. "There are sti llproblems to overcome, such as when thepackaging comes into contact WIThthe product,"she said. Natural packaging, including woodencaps, refil lable jars and bamboo, are beingintroduced to lessen the impact on the environment.Companies are also considering fair and

beneficial business practices, such as Fair Trade, in When Sarah Mccartney last presented atorder to treat suppliers more fairly. Fagot-Coste in-cosmetics in 2003, she noted there were hardlygave examples o f brands tha t support charit ies any companies producing natural ingred ients. Thisthrough proceeds on product sales, such as Mac year, she noticed just how many more natural andViva Glam lipst icks/glosses to help HIVIAids v ic tims organic mater ia ls were being presented. "Lushand Kiehl's support of the Rainforest Alliance. never uses extract of lemon, but takes a wholeCommunicating CSR at point of sale has its lemon and squashes it up," she said. "We are in t he

challenges, as there are so many labels. Consumers business of saving the planet and happen to be

Nutricosmetics Ingredients Markets: Challengesand Growth Opportunities in the EU and USDr. Leonidas Dokos, Industry Analys t, SpecialtyChemicals Group, Frost & Sulli vanNutricosmetics isa t iny market incompar ison tocosmetics and toi letr ies, worth $2.1 bn versus$250bn worldwide, according to Frost & Sul livan."Nutricosmetics {and cosmeceuticals} is growingfaster than nutraceuticals and cosmetics, and weare expecting an 8% growth to 2015 to reach$5.62bn," stated Leonidas Oakes, who sees theNorth American markst as offering the greatestpotential . "An ageing population with healthconcerns and concerns about their quali ty of l ife isan important market driver," he affirmed. Cosmeticsand personal care products that offer anti-ageingproperties are expected to continue sxhibit inghealthy growth.Dokos identified key growth in nutricosmetics,

including caratonoids and vitamins, with a numberof new entrants coming especially from China."Regional legislation is impacting on the globalmarkets. There is a wil l for harmonization butcoordination between the responsible authoritiesand bodies is s low," he pointed out. The crit icalsuccess factors for nutricosmetics wil l be educatingconsumers, establishing scientific credibility, theneed to maintain a favourable sensory profi le andensuring reliable supply.

can be engaged through mult ip le channels andsocial media. "However the use of CSR repor ts canbe a feel-good PR tool and are an opportun ity toshowcase a company's uniqueness," she affirmed.Consumers are sti ll sceptical and do not bel ievethat companies can really be sustainable and donot want to pay more for sustainable products."Sustainabi li ty does not offer a new way fordifferentiation, but should be seen as a must-have,"she said.

Developing Fa irtrade Cosmetics: A Look at theBasics of Fairtrade Labelling & CertificationIsabelle Bluche, Senior Manager Non-Food andNew Category Development, Max HavelaarFrance [FLO]

Fairtrade is a global networkwhere people work together incombating poverty by providingproducers with secure andsustainable livelihoods. Fairtradelabelling covers 21 national

labelling initiatives and three producer networkswhich is said to benef it 8 mil lion people. In 2008,Fairtrade products accounted for 2.9bn sales.Isabelle Bluche explained that consumers have a

great deal of t rust in the Fair trade concept, with72% bel ieving that independent certi fication isthebest way to ver ify ethical claims. "There is highconsumer recogni tion of the Fair trade mark at morethan 70% in the UK and 50% in France," she said.The potential for cosmetic products to use the

Fairtrade mark is high. "More producers aresupporting trade ini tiatives and more areapproaching Max Havelaar to get into the Fairtradesystem." The current s tatus as of Apri l 2010 is thatthere are 21 Fair trade regis tered brands in the UK,US, Denmark, Canada and France. However, it maytake some considerable time for internationalharmonization of the FLO pol icy.Ifa brand isto seek Fairtrade certi fication, certain

cri teria must be met. For example, all ingredientsthat can be Fair trade must be Fai rt rade and brandsmust consider substitution of ingredients such asfats and oils. Surfactants should be derived fromFairtrade material where feasible.

Cosmetics, Ingredients & Eth ics - Lush's Futureas an Activist OrganisationSarah McCartney, Lush Fresh

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

14/44

qu ite goo d at co sm etics ." Th e Lush b us in ess h as av ery lo w ca rb on fo otp rin t, a nd m ake s e ve ryth in gand does not have a separate C SR depa rtm ent."W e think of that as an excuse," she sa id. Eachproduct has a sticker w ith the da te it was made anda picture o f t he perso n wh o m ade it . "E th ica l run sth ro ug h th e w ho le o rg an is atio n. W e th in k o rg an icfarm ing should be som ething that's norm al," sheaffirm ed . Lush packaging is m inim alist, w ith 7 0% ofi ts p ro du ct s u n pa ck ag ed .

Lush is kn ow n fo r its o utspo ken cam paign s, sucha s its s tan ce a ga in st p alm o il fro m are as w herew orld h erita ge ra in fo re sts a re s ti ll b ein g c ut d ow n.A no th er in vo lv ed th e su ppo rt o f c lim ate ru sh .co .u k intry in g to s to p a ir tra ve l e xp an sio n. L us h o rg an is edp art ie s a t m ain lin e tra in s ta tio ns to re wa rd p eo plet ra ve ll in g b y t ra in .

The future for Lush invo lves doing m uch of thes am e and b e in g m ore c reat ive to reducepackag in g and p res erva tive s . It is loo kin g a t newess en tia l o i ls from th e Am azon and w an ts tolau nch a ran ge o f n atu ral p erfu mes .

ROUND TABLE - Going Beyond Natural andOrganic: How Biodiversity is Transforming theC osme tic In du stryB io dive rs ity h as b ec om e a n im po rtan t iss ue o n th ein tern at io nal ag en da. Th e p an el d isc uss ed th ec ha lle ng es to th e b ea uty in du stry W IT hin t hefram ew ork of the year of biodiversity 2010. T heo bje ct ive w as to sh are id eas o n b io div ers ity a nd tog iv e n ew s fro m th e p art ic ip an ts o n h ow b io dive rs ityi s b e in g a d dr es se d.

O dile G au th ie r, d ir ec to r o f b io div er sity fo r th eFren ch g ove rn me nt, d es crib ed 20 10 a s a d ecis iv eyear for E U and w orld policy on biodive rsity . Th eta rg et o f h altin g th e e ro sio n o f b io dive rsity in E uro peno later than 2010 has led to it being taken intoa cc ou nt in th e fo rm ula tio n o f g ov ern me nt p olic ie s."Wh at is n ow n eeded , is to s treng then th at ac tiona nd e xten d it to priva te se cto r p la ye rs ," sh ea ff ir me d, s ta tin g t ha t it in vo lv es g et ti ng r ec o gn it io no f th e c lo se lin ks b etw ee n b io div ers ity a nde c on om ic d e ve lo pm en t .

C aro le P eille s aid th at L 'O re al h ad a lre ad yid en tif ie d b io div ers ity a s a n im po rta nt is su e 2 0 y ea rsago and h as b een eva luat in g the im pact o f all rawm ate ria ls u se d in co sm etic p ro du cts . " Ou r m aina pp ro ac h is to p ro te ct a nd p re se rv e b io div ers ity .L 'Oreal h as a hug in fluen ce o n th e m arket , so w em us t m ake s ure o ur su pp ly ch ain is su stain ab le ,"s he e xp la in ed . T he L 'O re al g ro up , w hic h in clu de sThe Body Shop and K iehl's, sources 40% of itsm a te ria ls f ro m n a tu ra l e co lo gy .The U nion for Eth ical B io Trad e {U EB T] is a

re la tiv ely n ew o rg an is atio n s et u p to p ro m oteb io div ers ity a nd c os me tic s is o ne of th e a reas itc ove rs . UE BT h as c on du cted co nsu me r re se archwhich showed that 26% of consum ers had hearda bo u t b io di ve rs it y w h en in te rv ie we d la st y ea r, r is in g to60 % in 20 10. "T his doe sn't m ea n that they knoww ha t it m eans," pointed out R ik K utsch Lojenga, w hos aid t he re i s s t ill c o nf us io n . H e r eg ar ds c er tif ic at io n o fb io div ers ity a s v ery im po rta nt, e sp ec ia l~ g iv en th eg ro win g tre nd fo r n atu ra l a nd o rg an ic c os me tic s a ndto ile tr ie s. H ow ev er, h e p oin te d o ut th at it is e as ie r tom ea su re in gre die nts w hic h a re o rg an ic th an tom e as ure t ho se fr om b io div er sity .

Marco s Vaz exp la in ed h ow ten years ago , Natu rab eg an d eve lo pin g p ro du cts u sin g b io div ersity . " Th egoal should be to prom ote biodiversity first and thento a im fo r o rg an ic /n atu ra l c ertific at io n," h e s aid ,p o in ti ng o ut th a t c er ti fic at io n g iv es c on s um e rspe ace of m ind about the products they purchase.

E du ard o E sc ob ed o (U NC TA D) sa id th at O cto be r2010 is supposed to be agreed on as the date thatth e E uro pe an U nio n in co rp ora te s it in to its p olic ie s." Th ere a re o pp os in g v iew s b etw een c ou ntrie s an dw e n eed d iffe ren t c hec kp oin ts ," h e w arn ed , a sk in gh ow th e in du stry c an p art ic ip ate in d is cu ss io ns .Pe ille m en tio ne d th at Th e B od y Sh op is w orkin gw ith 30 m argin alis ed c om mu nit ies a cro ss th e w orld ,bu t that there is a need to clarify the issue. " If wem anaged globa l agreem ent, th ere is still a lon g w ayto g o," m ain ta in ed G au th ie r. "We firs t n eed av alid atio n o f b io div ers ity a t g lo ba l le ve l" .

L oo kin g fo rw ard , L ew is b elie ve s th at a nti-o xid an ts w ill s till f ea tu re s tr on g~ in b ea uty la un ch es ."C om panies are also loo king at com post, the by-p ro du cts o f h arve st a nd fe rm en te d a ctiv es . O th erin gre die nts to w atc h a re ro ot v eg eta ble s, in clu din gyam an d po tato , an d p ro te in -rich pulse s such asle ntils , c hic kp ea s a nd a dz uk i b ea ns ."

Beau ty Garden: What's Rot and What's NotNica Lewis, Head Consultant, Mintel BeautyInnovation, Mintellnternational GroupFloral ex t rac ts , f ru it s a nd 9 V9 n s up er fr uit s a re a llc om mo nly u se d in c os metic s. M in te l h as n oted th eu se o f m o re u nu su al " ga rd en " o rie nte d in gre die nts inp ro du cts o n its g lo ba l n ew p ro du cts d ata ba se . N ic aL ew is p re se nte d a b uffe t o f n ew " ga rd en " in gre die ntsw h ic h a re " in s ea so n ", in c lu di ng c ar ro ts , t om a to e s,c uc um be rs , o th er g re en v eg eta ble s a nd h erb s. T he reis e ve n a n ew ra ng e ca lle d V eg eta ble G ard en , w hic hlo ok s a t th e h ea rt o f th e v eg eta ble g ard en c on ce pt." Th e e arth is lite ra l~ b urs tin g w ith b ea uty a ctiv es ,"e xp la in ed L ew is , w ho h ig hlig hte d p ea e xtra ct,b ro cco li, b ru ss el sp ro ut e xtra ct a nd d ill e xtra ct in n ewp ro du cts . " In a cc mo n to a nti-o xid an t b en efits , g re env eg eta ble s a re p ro vin g to h av e s up ple ne ss a nde la sti ciz in g b e ne fi ts ." L ew is h as a ls o s ee n e vi de n ceo f fe rt ili ze r a s a n i ng re die n t i n c os m et ic s.

On e o f M in te l's key co sm etic tre nd s in 2010 is fo rN u Natu ra ls , w hic h c ov er p ro du cts w hich arefo cus ed o n re su lts , e ffica cy a nd s afe ty a nd les s o nc ertific at io n. Part o f th is tren d is th e e merg en ce o fp la n t- ba se d a lt er na tiv es to p ar ab en s.

IN-FOCUS ROUND TA BLE: Fashion Insp iring theC reative P rocess in B eautyJ acq ue s S eb ag , in -fo cu s P ro je ct M an ag er,in tro duced th e co ncep t o f in -fo cus as b ein g ac re at iv e an d in no va tiv e p latfo rm to a ss oc ia te ab ea utif ul s to ry w it h i ng re die n t/s ci en ce s to rie s. T h isy ea r's in -fo cu s th em e w as fa sh io n. " It 's s urp ris in gth at m any cosm etic b ran ds h ave a fash io n labe l, ye tth ere is n o c on ne ct io n. T he y b oth d eliv er tru ese nso ria l ex perie nc e. Ou r jo b is to te ll m ore ab outwhat w e can do to link the fashion and beautyw orld ," h e s aid .

Pas ca lin e Wilh elm is th e fa sh io n d ire cto r o fP re mie re V is io n, th e " in -c os me tic s fo r th e fa sh io nin dus try " . Sh e desc rib ed ho w w hen a fab ric iscreated , the visual, touch and handle aspects are allim po rta nt . " We av ers a ll a ro un d th e w orld c re atew ith th es e th re e e lem en ts in m in d. To uch is ane ss en tia l e le me nt o f q ua lify a nd th e d iffe re nc eb etw ee n tw o p ro du cts," s he e xp la in ed .

Gio rg io A rm an i is o ne o f t he few com pan ies tow ork ac ro ss fa sh io n a nd c osm etic s w hen c re at in gn ew p ro du cts . Th e de sign er w ork s c lo se ly w ithin te rn at io n al m a ke -u p a rt is ts a nd th e in te rn a tio n alfash io n w orld wh en do in g m ake-up fo r the sh ows ."Th e id ea o f laun ch ing a lin e is to cre ate d es ign s fo rth e fa ce ," s aid J oh an L un din (In te rn atio na lM ar ke tin g D ire cto r M ak e- up ), d es cr ib in g A rm an i'su niq ue p hilo so ph y a s " fro m te xti le s to c os me tic s" .G io rg io A rm an i h as in ve nte d M ic ro -Fil" ", ate ch no lo gy th at m ills in gre die nts fin ely to g etd iffe re nt se ns oria l a nd v isu al e ffe cts an d ca n b ela ye re d, lik e a d re ss .A nn e A briat , Frag ran ce & Sen so ry D irec to r at

L.:O rea l ta lked about how the em otions need to be

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

15/44

tre nd s fo r c os me tic s. A nto in ette va n d en B ergta lke d ab ou t h ow fa sh io n a nd c os me tic fo re cas tin gis n ot a lw ay s sy nc hro nize d. " Blac k is n o lo ng er s opopu lar in fas h io n , b u t is com in g in as a n ew area inc os me tic s, s uc h a s b la ck n ail p olis h," s hee xp la in ed . F utu re -T ou ch fo re ca st th is tre nd fo uryea rs ago b ut it w as co ns id e red to o "w itch y" at th etim e. O th er tre nd s F utu re -T ou ch fo re sa w, in clu dethe use of eyeshadows outside the classical "' Iearea {e.g. Lady Gaga}. "Fashion trends do not givein fo rm atio n a bo ut m ak e-u p, ra w m ate ria ls , p ig me ntsand p ro duc ts , o r e ven how it can b e used . Our go a li s to develop products that delver the r ight productf o r t h e f ut ur e. "Van den Berg discussed three trends for the

fu tu re , in clu din g c os me tic e ffe cts fo r 2 01 1, m e n'sm ak e-u p fo rec as t a nd a v is io n o f In dian c osm etics .C osm etic e ffe cts to w atc h o ut fo r in clu de g old eng lo w e ffe cts , p ea rly p as te ls , tw o to ne fo rm u la tio nsan d m on och ro me co lo urs fo r eyes , lip s an d n ails .Men 's m ake -up is s t il l a ve ry n ew m arke t, b ut m ena re m ore in fo rm ed th es e days an d m ore recep tiveto tren d s . Van den Be rg s ees th e em ergen ce o fchunky eye and lip l iners and pocket s ize productsfo r m en . "Th e key is n o t to copy w om en 's , b u t toc re ate th eir o wn m as cu lin e lin e," s he e xp la in ed .

In d ia is th e o n e to w a tch , as fa r as van d en B e rgis co nce rn ed , b ecause it is s uch a b ig co un try w ithits o wn cu ltu re an d trad itio ns . " It is n ot a co py o fW es te rn c os me tic fo re ca st in g," s tre ss ed v an d enBerg. She described how Indian tradi tions could beupdated, such as the bindi between the eyes andth e red h en na lin e w hich m arks th e h air pa rtin g." Th e fu tu re w ill b e a m ix tu re o f In dia n c os me tictre nd s a nd W es te rn in flu en ce s," s he p re dic te d.

in co rp ora te d in to c re ativ e w ork , s uc h a s d ev elo pin ga new l ipst ick. " It 's about get ting the r ight colour andte xtu re to re fle ct th e e mo tio n," s he m ain ta in ed ." To uc h is o ne o f th e m ain im po rta nt e le me nts to life ."Lundin agreed, saying that Giorgio Armani puts greats to re b y to uch w hen w ork in g o n a n ew crea t ive .

H ow to La un ch a S ucc es sfu l E ntre pren eu ria lB ran d - Th e 7 Go ld en R u le s o f G iv in g Wom enWhat They Really, Really WantS ian Su th e rlan d , Found in g Partn er, Mam a MiaMam a Mio laun ch ed fo u r yea rs ago w ith a range o f"proper" bodycare products, at mid-market prices.N ex t y ear, S ia n Su th erla nd is fo re cas tin g tu rn ov er o f$10m and is looking at launching a range of fac ials kin ca re p ro du cts . "T he re is h ug e co mp etitio n infa cia l c are a nd w e n ee d a v ery c le ar p os it io nin g,"s he p oin ted o ut.Discussing the advantages and challenges of

being a small brand, she stressed the impor tance ofb ein g w he re w om en go , such as in le is u re cen tre s ,o r a t h om e w ith frie n ds sh arin g a b ottle o f w in e."You have to be nimble and you have to bec on sta nt ly m o vin g," s he e xp la in ed . " Th e re ce ss io nis the best thing that 's happened to Mama Mia andw e n ow d o th in gs o ur w ay ." S ellin g in d iffe re nt w aysis o ne o f h er s even go ld en ru le s , a lo ng w ith h avin gin te grity , b ein g re le va nt a nd u sin g o ne 's o wn v oic e." In gre die nts th at c re ate e mo tio n a re th e m os tv alu ab le th in g y ou c an u se ," s he s aid .

l oo k in g f or a lte rn a ti ve s to tr ad it io n al a n ti- ag ei ngs kin ca re a s th ey se ek b ette r e ffic ien cy an d m orere su lts . T he tw o m ain a nt i-a ge in g a lte rn ativ es a re :a es th et ic m ed ic in e a nd a nti-a ge in g s oft m ed ic in es .

A es th et ic m ed ic in e is m ovin g to wa rd s a m orenatural look, with injectables with small moleculesth at p ro du ce le ss irr i ta tio n. L ero y p re dic ts th ato rg an ic a ct iv es w ill b e th e fu tu re fo r a es th et icm ed ic in es . " Ma ny o f th ese n ew te ch no lo gie s a rem o re th an a s ou rc e o f in sp ira tio n fo r tra dit io na lc os me tic s w hich a re p os it io nin g th em se lve s a s are al a lte rn at iv e to a es th et ic m e dic in e," s ta te d L ero y.Examples include make-up as a " face li ft " by usingproduct to improve face shapes and soft~ reshapea face. Extremely l ight fibre textures are available fors kin ca re , a lm os t like a s ec on d s kin .Leroy talked about the trend for products for

p re /d uri ng /p o st a es th e tic i nte rv en ti on s, w h ic h w illg ro w a s m ore w om en o pt fo r th es e p ro ce du res .Soft m e dic in e s r un in p ar all el t o t ra di ti on a l

skincare WIThthe US, UK and Japan in the lead."Co nsum ers try th em w hen th ey 've h ad n o succes swith other anti-ageing remedies. They l ike thembecause they are 100% natural and non-aggressiveand can be used long-term." Leroy also looked att re n ds in A sia tic m e dic in es , in c lu d in g a cu pu n ct ur eto s lim do wn th e face , an d n ew an ti-age in gm ed ic in es w hic h ta ke a m ore h olis tic a nd sc ie nt if icapproach looking deeply for the causes of ageing{e.g. medical, hormonal, nutritional],

From Slow Anti-ageing to Fast De-age ing Therapies Cosmetics Trend Forecasting: Insight into FutureMarie-Alix Leroy, BEING Cosmetic Colours, Products and EffectsMarie -A lix Le ro y's p re s en ta t io n fo cused on th e A n to in e tte van den B e rg , T ren d Fo recas ter &usage b eh av io u r o f 40 -55 yea r o ld wom en and th e ir Ow ne r, Fu tu re -Toucha tti tud es tow ard s an ti-age in g p ro cedu re s and Fu tu re -Tou ch lo o ks a t tren d s from th e in te rn a t io n a lco sm etics . Now adays , w om en in th is age g ro up a re w o rld o f f as h io n and tran s la te s th em in to fu tu re

The Internet - A Marketing Tool to Understandth e B eh av io u r o f Con sum ers Be tte rG i ann i Pulll, In du stry Le ad er FM CG , C osm etics ,Luxury & H ea lth , G oo gle , Fran ceIn his presentation, Gianni Pul li brought the world ofth e in te rn et to life b y sh ow in g h ow m uch m orein fo rm atio n is a va ila ble th an ju st w ord s. F ore xam ple , p eo ple c an v iew im ag es , vid eo s,products, maps and books result ing in bil lions ofGoogle queries per day wor ldwide. A new free toolcalled Google Insight for Search has launched toh elp peo ple m ake s en se o f t he in cre as in g am ou nto f in fo rm atio n a va ila ble o nlin e. P ulli d es crib ed h ow itcan b e used to id en tify n ew em erg in g tren ds incosmet ics by country, such as the "smokey eye"lo ok in m ake -u p. B ra nd s c an e va lu ate th eirp op ularity o nlin e o ver tim e a nd b y c ou ntry a s w ellas eva luate th e s tren gth o f a tren d, such as o rgan icco sm etics . Describ in g th e to ol as "a fo cus g ro up o na large scale, " he gave the example of YSLP aris ie nn e's c om m erc ia l fe atu rin g K ate M os s, a ndshowed the response rate by demographic group,c ou ntry a nd c on su me rs ' le ve ls o f a tte ntio n. H esuggested that i t could even be used to predictfuture trends.

DOWNLOADgPresentations

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

16/44

In P aris la st A pril, in -fo cu s fa sh io n s etth e s cen e fo r s o me un iqu ee nc ou nte rs b etw een th e fa sh io n a ndth e b ea uty in du str y. t 5 la bo ra to rie sshaped the trends for summer 20tt ,d ra win g th eir in sp ira tio n fro m a

s ele ctio n o f fa sh io n d es ig ners . B as ed o n tre nd si de n ti fi ed b y c ar li n In te rn at io n al , h a ut e c o ut ur efo rm s, fe e l an d co lo urs w ere us ed to crea te au niq ue fo rm ula e a nd s up re me ly s en so ria l te xtu re s.T his e xe rcis e p ro vid ed in -fo cu s w ith a n

e xp er im e nt al in s ig h t i nto fo rm u la ti on . D ev el op in gfo rm ula tio n fro m a fa sh io n p ers pe ctiv e, m ea ntlo ok in g at h ow co sm etics can clo th e o ur sk in , b ye xp lo rin g th e re la tio ns hip b etw ee n te xtu re a nds ub sta nc e. It is n ot ju st a q ue stio n o f b orro win g s ilko r cash me re fro m th e wo rld o f t ex t ile s to c rea te ana sso ciat io n w ith fa sh io n, b ut to g en uin ely th in k o fco sm etic fo rm ulae b e in g used to c rea te a garm en t- p ro duc t m essage , c re a t in g a lin k b e tween itslike quality . ac tiv ity a n d its s en so ria l p re s en ce . Th is i s w hy

In itia lly , th is th em e ap pea rs as an in vitat io n to p lay co mpan ies such as Sin erga o r Cro da h avew ith co lo urs . Pigm en ts g ive a p rec io us an d in stan tly d eve lo ped tex tu re s re ly in g n ot o n th e use o fapparent glint to textures that are constantly emollients but on the product's structuralch an gin g an d flash in g w ith ir id e s cen ce in o rd e r to co mpo nen ts , th e em uls if ie rs .c re a te an effec t o f s urp rise as a p recu rs o r to In to ta l, w e h ave b een g iven th e oppo rtun ity o ffabulous transformations. But th is sparkling discovering almost th irty different formu lae on there fle ctio n is n ot s im ply d ec ora tive . A t th e cro ss ro ad s p la tfo rm . T hirty se ns oria l e xp erim en ts d es ig ne d too f act ive co sm etics and n ew , fun c t io n a l fab rics , th e m ake u s v iew co sm etic m ate ria ls in a n ew ligh t. Fo rp igm en ts ' m in e ral qua lit ie s --, .. . . . . 1 - ; ; : ; ; ; . . jiiill. th o s e w ho d id n o t ge t th eem erge and to th e pre s en ce oppo rtun ity to s ee th em a t th eo f true b io -ac t ive p ro te c tio n . e x h ib itio n o r red isco ve r th em in

In fa ct , th is p re se nc e isw ha t it's a ll a bo ut. F orm -m e mo ry c re am s, e la sto m erte xtu re s, m in era l a sp ec ts w ithan evan escen t to uch an dp ow de rs W IT h a s ilk to uc h,h ave a ll m ade a m ajo rim pre ss io n o n th e c re at io nsp re se nte d a t th e 2 0tO e ditio n.E ve ry o ne o f th es e fo rm ula eh ig h li gh ts t he r e la ti on shi pbe tw een the look an d feel,be tw een the m ateria l and IT Sappearan ce . E ach on e is av i b r an t expression o ft ra ns fo rm a tio n a n d e xp lo re sth es e b o rd erla nd a re asb e tw e en t he a li -em br ac in gm a te ria lity o f te xtile s a nd th eg en tle fu sio n o f b ea uty c arew it h th e e pid er mi s.This approach was illustrated by the w ork of

S ym ris e. B as ed o n th eir 3 c os me tic c on cep tsd eve lo pe d fo r in -fo cu s, S ym ris e c re ate d 3 fin ef ra g ra n c e s c h a ra c te r is e d by a ma te ri al p re s en c ethat gave the m a true fabric-like texture, creating afra gra nc e yo u c an fe ell T ak in g th is e xtre meapproach, Dow Gorning presented the w ork ofR eu tlin ge n U niv ers ity a nd la un ch ed a c olle ct io n o fd re ss es m ad e fro m s ilic on es s im ila r to th os e u se d inc os me tic s w ith v aria tio ns o n th e th em e o f flu id ity .T he re su lt w as a n e nv elo pin g, flo win g m ate ria l th atc an b e tra ns pa re nt, c ry sta llin e o r e va ne sc en t. ..The cosmetic product is not on~ a surface Beetle Collection by Merck Chim ie, Gattefosse

te x tu re , b u t can also b e seen as a rch ite c tu re . A and Stran d Cosm e tics E u ro pefab ric 's fee l a ls o d epends on its s truc tu re an d th e A sm oo th in g p ro te c tive d ay ca re w ith th e lo o k an dw ay th e w arp in te rweaves w ith th e w eft . Sim ila rly , a fee l o f a moire taffe ta - e nh an ce d w ith a h yp no tic

In p artn ers hip w ith : ;':;'''''1' CCD... SP In,oo __

i n - f ocusf ash i on

M ed ia P ar tn e r:

Reviewed by Jacques Sebag,consultant to inocosmetics

fo rm ula 's te xtu re d ep en ds o n h ow its v ario usp h as es a re a rr an g ed .

From th is po in t o n , th e w ay a cream o r a ge l isco ns truc ted w ill add a n ew d im en sio n to th e

a no th er c on te xt , th e in -c o sm e tic s r ev ie w m a ga zi neb ri ng s y ou ye t anotherexpe rim en t - an a ttem pt tod es crib e 3 0 c os me tic fo rm ula ein th e la ng ua ge o f fa sh io n!

Trend 1 0 Na tu r al E x tr av aganzaG ap tu re th e m ag ic of a b e et lec ar ap ac e lu st er o r c ha m el eo nc am o uf la ge ! N atu re b e co m est he i ns pi ra ti on al s o ur ce o f b o ldc olo urs a nd p atte rn s fo r h yp no ticp ro du cts a nd c ha ng in g b ea uty

M etam orp hosis M askb y S ymr is eF ai ry v eil ! S ym ri se h a ved es ig ne d tw o a nti-a ge in g p ee l-o ff m as ks w hich c han ge c olo ur

w he n d ry o n th e sk in , re ve elin g p la yfu l tra nsp are ntfre sh h ue s. T he p re lu de to e ve rla stin g y ou th , ..

S him m erin g m o ire a sp ec ts c re ate a c ha m ele ons pirit to th e M eta mo rp ho sis M as k. C olo urs s hiftin gbe tw een green and gold, b lue and poorly v io let -s im u lta ne ou sly a iry a nd a qu atic , c ha ng in g h ue s lik e ad ra go nfly in th e s un ... T his a pp ea rs to b e in -lin e w itht he c atw a lk t re nd s f or " in se ct s" a n d " m eta m o rp h os is "- n ota bly p re se nt in th e la st co lle ctio n o f th e g en iu sA le xan de r M cQ U99 n - a c olo ure d h arm on y th atd ra ws o n b oth n atu ra l a nd fa nta st ic v is io ns .. Aperfect fI T fo r m o de rn -d ay n ym p he ts l

p ale tte o f e ye s ha do ws .Mag ic Sh im me r - Th is go ld en co ppe ry , m oire

ta ffe ta in sta ntly a do rn s th e s kin w ith a fle etin g lig htta n. T he p ro du ct h as a n e la stic q ua lity, m ou ld in gth e fa ce , th e n ec k a nd s ho uld ers p erfe ctly . cre atin ga sculpting base w hich catches the light, and offerss mo oth ne ss a nd p ro te ct io n.

F o rm u la ti on i n si gh t : Hydracire" S : n e w g en e ra tio nv eg eta l w ax b utte r. G iv es s tru ctu re to th e fo rm u la ,m o is tu rize s a nd p ro te cts th e s kin .Velvet Polychrom e eye shadow - A beautifu lly

ta nn ed p ea rly le ath er. o n-s o s up ple a nd lig ht... T hee xtre me ly fin e g ra in s, g ive s a se am les sly so ft a ndnaturally sm ooth touch. A fairly m atte aspect andb ro wn h ue w ith am ber o ve rto nes em ph as ized b yth e irid es ce nce o f s ub tle o ld -g old s he en . WID

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

17/44

s um m er s oire e ..F orm u la tio n in sig ht: H ite cr ea m, a u niq ue

a nd v ers at ile e m uls if ie r s ys te m fo rm in g a liq uidc ry sta l n etw ork a nd in te rw ea vin g a w id e v ar ie tyo f c om p o n en t s.

orange and gold - intermingled to form a I"ing,m o v in g , im p re ss io n is t p at te rn .

F orm u la tio n in sig ht: T he c olo urs o f th e C re as ta rp ea rle sc en t p ig me nts c ha ng e w he n in c on ta ct w ithth e s kin .

C olo urs w ith a n in cre dib le s mo oth ne ss - C olo ursl ike the kiss of a butterfly, creating a total lyunprecedented effect for a powder as the fingertipsg lid e a cro ss it w ith t in glin g s oftn es s, b ru sh in g o ve rth es e c olo urs a s if c are ss in g th e fin es t s ilk . ..

s up er-fin e c ha m ois c lo th .F orm u la tio n in sig ht: T he u niq ue a iry fe el is

obtained with the Creaspheres Sll WL3, coloureds ph e re s o f s il ic a.

Facial Moistur izer by Crada, Cradarama nd S ed erm aA tender, pale pink mi lky texture similar to a coatingWITha subdued shine. This fine coating isvery l ightto the touch, but has body and shape like a super-c om fo rta ble m e rc er iz ed k nit . L itt le re d g ra in s lo ok a sthough they have been g lued to the fibres as theys ca tte r a cro ss th e s urfa ce , d is tu rb in g th e a pp are ntcalm and smoothness of the texture.

F or m ul at io n i ns ig h t: A r ef re sh in g m o is tu ris er ,b as ed o n n atu ra lly d eriv ed in gre die nts , u se s ac om b in at io n o f C ro de sta F11 0 a nd Ve rs afle x V17 5to create a unique, very light yoghurt tex ture with ac oo lin g s en sa tio n w he n a pp lie d to th e s kin .

"G lo s s Pho to n ic " an d "E ye Shado w Co lo r" byC re at io n s C o ule u rsTh e co lo ur ch an ges w hen in co ntac t w ith th e s k in

"G lo ss Pho to nic " - A gum my tex tu re w ho sesurface is seamlessly smooth and shiny, l ike sequins "Eye Shadow Color" - A silk fabric that appears- s im ila r to a fin e , h om og enous co a t in g o n a fab ric to b e w oven and de lica te ly la id u pon th e s k in . T h emade of intensely coloured fibres. With light light and matte texture of this vaile contrasts withva ria t io n s com e de ligh tfu l an d un exp ec ted th e rich n es s o f th e dye and its re fle c t ive q ua lit ie s . Are fle c t io ns : an "o il s lick " w ith c h am eleo n m oire p ea rly ir id e s cen ce is p ro je c ted o n to th e su rfaceasp ec ts tak in g th eir fu ll d im en sio n w hen w orn in c rea t in g a spec ia l e ffe c t, s im ila r to co ntras t in g t in ts :m otio n . A n ex e rc is e in th e co ex is ten ce o f "w ild ca t" te a l b lue and g reen , d en s e tu rq uo is e an d p u rp le ,and supernatural shades - candy-co tton p ink, apple very light purple and almond green, faded violet andgreen, tu rquoise and sky b lues, fuchsia, purple, b lue-grey". all with an irreSistibly soft touch, like a

T ren d 2 - Sen suo us Ve ilsFlesh tones and cream si lks - the art of envelopingth e s kin w ith s mo oth ne ss a nd s ub tle s en su ality .

Del icate Fac ial Mois turizer by Crada, Cradarama nd S ed erm aE mo tio n is m ovem en t. T he c re am h as th e de lica tefe el o f s ilk flo win g o n y ou r s kin .A fteshy beige sateen with very l ight coppery

ir id es ce nc e c re ate s th e fe el o f a s ilk c re pe w hils t its

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

18/44

g rain s rem ain in vis ib le to th e e ye , Jus t e no ug h tosuggest the sensual caress of the fabric skimmingo ver the sk in ", Th e un ique com fo rt o f t he fine , so ftlin in g o f a ga rm en t wo rn d irec tly o n th e b odyc ou ple d w ith a lin ge rie s pirit , s ub tly u nd erlin e th es ilh oue tte 's c urv es w ith its so ft p ea rly sh ee n a s itcaptures the l ight.Formulation insight: Arlacel LG has been used as

th e s ole e mu ls ifie r to a ch ie ve th is e xc ep tio na lly s ilk ya nd lig ht molaturlser, T hr ou gh it s in n ov at iv e l iq ui dcrystal technology, i t produces hydrosomes thatoffer feather l ight application properties ande nh an ce d s kin p la y,

E va n's ce nt C re am by Symr iseTh e E van 's cen t cre am d rapes the body infe min in ity ", Its fle sh y-te nd er p in k h ue is fin ely la ce dw ith g old en irid es ce nc e, A n u nd ers ta te d, d elic atesheen similar to a l ight silk foulard twi ll , obtainedWITha remarkably supple and suave contexture. Thec osm etic e qu iv alen t o f s lip pin g in to a s en sua l b ody -s kim min g ro be .. ,

F orm ula tio n in sig ht: A p ea ch to uc h, s ec on d-s kinach ie ved w ith th e us e o f Emulsiphos",

"Mi llefeuille" Cream by Sinerga

A c re am m ad e fro m th re e d iffe ren t lay ers e ch oesth e s upe rpo sitio n o f fin e a nd s en su ous v eils : a liqu idcrystal c ream, a l ight and veWety emulsion and afresh and silky texture.

A m on och ro me co mpo sed o f v oile bases inv ar yi ng s ha de s o f b ei ge , T h re e c olo u r in te ns it ie s,where the material is leff longer inthe dye-bath eacht im e: a go ld en sand to ne , a fle sh ton e an d a co ppe rypraline tone. These voi les all share a subtle pear~q ua lity a nd a p atin a to uc h s im ila r to a s ilk p on ge e,

Body Mousse by SACI CFPAA so ft an d m elt in g m ou ss e fo rm ulated w ith ou ta n emu ls i fi e rl

A m ou sse te xtu re like a s up er-lig ht p iec e o fc otto n fluff! Wh en a pplied to th e s kin a m atte w hitec olo ur in its a gglo me rated fo rm b eco me stra nsp are nt like a v eil a nd tra ns fo rm s in to a fin elayer o f cotton muslin on the body. The textu re isl ig ht a nd ro un d in c on sis te nc y" , a lit tle w hite c lo ud :airy , f resh and yet cozy to wearlFormulation insight : Nulast ic Surfa 0 99-9 is a

n ew g en era tio n o f h ig h p erfo rm an ce p re -d is pe rs ede la s tom e r s il ic o n es ,

caresses both the senses and the skin . It ssmooth, Cyber Sensuality by Merck Chimie, Gat tefossesolid tex tures leavesa deliciously unexpected powder and Strand Cosmetics Europefin ish , com parab le to a sa tin fab ric , "Snow Cream " - Th e so ftn e ss o f m ercerized

fabrics is interpreted by matte whi te - with t inyp ro je ctio n o f d is cre et " po la r w hite " s pa ng le s, W he nth is c re am is w orn , it is re min is ce nt o f w earin g h igh -q ua lity b ru sh ed fle ec e n ex t to th e s kin , Its e xte rio rap pea ran ce is c lo se r to th e de ns ity a nd u nifo rm ityo f duch es s sa tin , in a sob er, m atte weave , Th isd el ic ate s of tn es s is n ev er th ele ss a n im p re ss iv ecellular energizing shield.

F or mu la tio n i ns ig h t: E m uliu m D elt a: e m ul sif ie rw ith a ve lve t to uc h th at allo ws th e c rea tio n o f u ltrastable high quality emulsions.

"Pu re Inn ocence Lus ter" eye-sh ado w s tick -This shadow with a frosted pearl effec t leaves awhite metal lic vei l on the eyelid, with subtle silver

Trend 3 - Seductive FutureS urp ris in g m in era l m ate ria ls a nd s ilv er h ue str an sfo rm in g in to f lu id a nd u ltr a-s of t c are ss ,High technology and seducing metal dissolving intop u re e m o ti on ,

Duo Treatment by Croda, Crodaroman d Sed ermaF ac ia l T on in gSerum - SynthetiCm atter - in ate ch n ic al f ab ric v ei n- with a metalli cpurple cast. Thisc le ar s he er a sp ec ta llo ws us to s ee itsc on s te lla tio n o f a irbubbles creating a" co sm ic" to uc h, A nairy, oxygenatedte xtu re -d iamet r ical lyopposed to thelaws of gravity! A nu nex pec te d se nsa tio n o f sm oo th nes s co upled w itha re fres hin g to uc h, n ot u nlik e th e consistency o f as i li c o ne f lu i d

F or mu la tio n i ns ig h t: A s ilk y, s m oo th s en sa ti onand c lear gel structure, created by OptaSense GSO

Fac ial M ois tu rizer B oo st - A so ft a nd co ol su mm ertexture that issmooth and slippery, giving a fine lightcoating. The uniform and absolute~ flawless weave ofa beautrrulluxurious fabric WITha soothing, coolings en sa tio n s im ila r t o a b am b oo v is co se b as e p ro mis esrefreshment for the skin on hot summer daye.Formulation insight: Grodafos GES is a novel

emulsifier that uses liquid crystal technology to createo le os om es , w hic h e nh an ce th e d eliv ery o f a ct iv esa nd g iv e th is c re am its ro bu st, c us hio ny te xtu re

Bouncing Cream by Symr ise

Peach es and cream by D ow C orn in gThis pastel orange cotton base is, at f irst glance,dense and m atte - as com pac t as a c lo ud" , b u twhen taken into hand, ITis l ight and comfortable l ikecashm ere , w ith a very so ft , ve il-like enve lop in g The "Boun cin g Cream " fo llows in th e s teps o f n ews en sa tio n, "Pe ac he s an d c re am " is a p lu sh crea m th at te xt ile e vo lu tio ns , as so ciat in g h ig h re silien ce a nd

re as su rin g s oftn es s, T he te xtu re is s urp ris in g w ith abouncy touch l ike ful ly inflated neoprene. A materialth at em erge s a s th e fu tu ris t ic a llian ce o f a n"e la sto me r" w ith a pre cio us m eta llic a sp ect - th an ksto i ts anthracite grey color, glori fied by copperyi ri d es c e n t o v e rt o n es ,

Fo rm ula tio n in sig ht: T he a ss oc ia tio n o fSymMoll ient Sand Frescolat Plus brings a uniquefresh feel to the texture.

r ef le ct s in m a tc hi ng to n es ,A tex tile th at is fin ely -c oa te d o r w ax ed in m eta llic

w hite , fo r to ne -o n-to ne s him m er v ee rin g to wa rd ss ilve r, Its m atte an d p atin a effec t is rem in is ce nt o f av ery s op his tic ate d le ath er, w ith a n e la bo ra te s urfa cean d co lo ur: ex tre mely re fin ed , sm oo th ed an dpol ished. A perfect all iance of the matter'sa rc hi te ct ur al q ua lit y w it h th e O b er -f em in in e e le ga nc ean d atm osp heric c hill o f th e co lo ur an d te xture "

F o rm u la ti on i ns ig h t: Timiron" L iq u id s il ve r: s il ve rmetallic effect."Liquid Platinum" gloss - Liquid steel for the lips!

Co nte mp ora ry a nd u nd ers ta te d: a b ala nc ed fo rm ulaof chic, silver lame WIThoutthe "bling"! A slightpatina, l ight but not dense ... these are the quali tiesth at g ua ran te e a v ery fe min in e p ro du ct, A c old h ueof silver WIThmetallic aspect and grain-free presentsim pe cc ab le sm oo th ne ss a nd sh in e, Sim ilar to a ligh tsilk twill with metallic threads, this matter literallyd ra pe s th e s kin in s en su ality a nd n on ch ala nc e,

F or mu la tio n i ns ig h t: T im iro n U qu id S ilv er : M et all icc ov era ge o n a s ilv er h eart ,Ice crystal touch - In order to leave subtle

spark les that catch the l ight , you have to apply thisIc e c ry st al l oo se po wder in sm all am oun ts , o n theupper part of the cheek ibones, over the PureIn no ce nc e L us te r to in te ns ify its s he en , o r p erh ap sin the middle of the lips on the lip gloss Liquidplatinum for a surprising 3D effect.

F o rm u la ti on i ns ig h t: Timiron~ I ce C r ys t al :sparkling particles with silver reflections.

Body Gel by SinergaThe body appears enveloped in an extensible vei l..T he vis co se to uch is s im ultan eo us ly so ft a nd firm ,thanks to the denseness of the structure,reminiscent of t ights, or a s light~ opaque cat orbodysuit . A very glamorous second-sk in with a softm eta llic s hee n, im pa rted b y a fin e p ro jec tio n o fsilvertone spangles on the sample's whITe-to-lightg re y b as e c olo ur,

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

19/44

A tre n d h as b lo s s om ed in to a life s ty le

F e e l t h e G r e e nK o lb 's in g re e nd ie n ts s ta n d fo r

Emuls ifie rs valid ate d b y EcoCe rt Skin -fr iend ly f ormu la tio ns Env iro nmen ta l re sp ec tKolb 's fu nc tio na l in gre endie nts a re m ild to th e s kina nd help n urtu re its n atu ra l, h ea lth y conditio n.Yo u wil l fin d id ea s fo r p erso na l c are p ro du cts w ith inou r bro ad ra ng e of guide formulation s. E asy a ndsafe hand ling inc luded .Giving natural well-being a face.

In-Cosmetics 2011Ma rch 29-31 , 2011Milan, I talyFiera MilanoHall 1

KOLBKo lb D i st ri bu t ion L td.Ma ienbr unnenst ra ss e 1 . P .O .B o x 64 . CH -8908 Hedin gen . Sw it ze rla ndP ho ne + 41 44 76 24 64 6, F ax + 41 44 76 24 60 2, cosinfo@kolb.chwww.kolb.ch

mailto:cosinfo@kolb.chhttp://www.kolb.ch/http://www.kolb.ch/mailto:cosinfo@kolb.ch

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

20/44

F orm ula tio n in sig ht: H ite cre am a llo ws a n atu ra la nd h ig hly s en su al g el e mu ls io n. T he o rig in alm ice lla r n etw ork w ra ps th e irid esc en t p ea rls ev en ath igh tempera tu res .

A n in no va tiv e U FO m ate ria l w ho se s ilic on ea pp earan ce is e nve lo pin g a nd so oth in g, Its c oo lte mp era tu re p ro cu re s a d elig htfu l s en sa tio n: a nin vita tio n to h om e c oc oo nin g! A te xtu re c om bin in gthe tran sparency and sh in e o f a varn is hed PVCm atter w ith th e p lu sh th ic kn es s o f n eo pren e, In lin ew ith n ew -g en era tio n c os me to -te xt ile s, th e m atte rd iffu se s its a ctiv e in gre die nts w he n in c on ta ct w ithth e b od y.

F o rm u la ti on i ns ig h t: T h e f or m ul at io n of th e s oli dc ry sta l cle ar g el is m ad e p os sib le th an ks to N om co rtC G (Xanthan G um and C era tonia S iliqua G um ).

" Sk in Je we l" b y Ste ar in erie D ub ois , A ffixa nd F ar lin gB y creating a film directly on the skin, th is "Jew el" isto the body what membrane is to Gore-Tex. Like ap ro te ct iv e a nd e mb ellis hin g n ylo n w ea ve , w ho ses ta bl e s tr uc tu re p re se rv es th e m a te ria l's lu m in o us ,p ea rliz ed o ld -g old r efle ctio ns , d ura bly . A v erita bled res s ing fo r th e b ody" , a co ntem po rary ve rs io n o fPa co R ab an ne 's m eta l p la que /je we lle ry d res se s -n ew and im pro ved w ith sm oo th ness an d co mfo rt!

" Me te or C re am " b y A rc hlL ab os ph er e/T ot al

"Me teo r" is a m in era l-based c ream - ev id en t in b othits c ha ra cte ris tic a nd c on te xt, A t firs t g la nc e, th isc ha rco al-g re y m eta llic n ug ge t d is pla ys s tre ng th a ndr ic hn es s w ith its c on ste lla tio n o f s ilv er s pa ng le s a ndd en sity , W he n h an dle d, its lig htn es s is a s s urp ris in gas it is appealin g I T he cold elegance of m etallic tintsis w arm ed b y s him m erin g lu min os ity ", m ate ria lizin gin to a m in era l a nd fu tu ris tic v is io n o f g la m'ro ck l F ee to n th e g ro und , h ead in th e co sm os ..

F or mu la tio n in sig h t: G em s ea l b rin g it s r em a rk ab les oft an d lig ht fe el to th e fo rm ula, M eteo r c on tain sB io Lu me n, a n ew a nti-ag ein g b y A rc h Pe rso nalC are P roducts activated by U VB Ligh t.

P ET G EL - Th ere are extrem e~ tigh t w eavin gte ch niq ues o r ch em ica l tre atm en ts to m ak e fab ric sw rin kle -fre e, b ut th is m ate ria l g oe s m uc h fu rth er th anthat. Its shape-m em ory m eans it snaps back to itso rig in al s ha pe - w hatev er th e m ov em en t, i t a lw aysa do pts its in it ia l t ex tu re , lik e s om e s ort of se l f -r ep a ir in g f ab ri c, C re a ti on of a n in cre dib ly s le ek a nds hin y s urfa ce , to ta lly d evo id o f a ny g ra in a ndtra ns pa re nt like P VC va rn ish ed . H ig h d en sity is ap re re qu is ite fo r th e c on te xtu re to k ee p its p ro m is es ",

"G ore -Te x' C ream - P rotective w ith its padded I

'-" I~ O' ~ E i

th e b rim w ith p ea r~ w hite ... L ik e a p uff-ja ck std es pite its c om pa ct, p ro te ct iv e a sp ec t, its lig htn es scom es as a su rpris e , Supp le and p leasan t to wear,b ec au se it is d ire ctly in sp ire d b y G ore -T ex m fa bricw ith its m icro -p oro us m em bra ne , T his p ro du cte njo ys th e sa me b re ath ab le a nd p ro ts ctv ep ro pe rt ie s - n ot to m en tio n th e ex trem e co mfo rt!

"3-D Se rum " - T hre e la ye rs in o ne : th e p rin cip leof a bonded textile product. R epresented b y threed iffe re nt c olo urs , e ac h h av in g its o wn fu nc tio n u sin gs ev era l la ye rs o f m ate ria l s im ila r to la min ate s, w hic him pro ve s th e ga rm en t pe rfo rm an ce s, A dd to th atsavvy pla y w ith transp arency and studied layering ofva rio us co lo urs a nd y ou o btain a co mb in at io n th atoffers the body shelter - a rare em bellish ment I

WATCH Ii]in-focus Video

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

21/44

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

22/44

S po n so re d b y:

I nnova t i onZo n e R ev iewThe Innovation Zone proved once again to be a hub for thoseacross the cosmetics industry keen to discover the latestingredients launched by exhibitors and the most innovativebeauty products on the market. Here is a re-cap of the highlights

E x h ib it or l au n ch e sT his area disp layed over 60 new ingredien ts andraw m ateria ls laun ch ed b y exh ib ito rs at th e sh ow o rw IT hin the last 6 m onths, P ost-show survey sho wsthat over 70% of vis ito rs vis ited the fe ature, M any,s uc h a s E ste lle G ue ne tte , F orm ula tio n T ec hn olo gis ta t Bo ots Co ntrac t Man ufactu ring , used it "as ago od starting point to decide w hich sup pliers to seef irst ." As a re su lt m an y p art ic ip at in g e xh ib ito rs w erev ery sa tis fied w ith th e ex perie nc e as Ke edo n Park,Vice Pres id en t at Pep tro n com men ted : "Wes ho wca se d o ur n ew p ro du cts a t th e In no vat io nZone and in th e firs t tw o days alo n e w e h ad m orethan 300 people to our stan d",

P ar ti ci pa ti ng c o m pa n ie sA CT OM A B, A ir P roducts, A qu ea S cien tific, B AS FS E, B urg un dy , G arg ill E uro pe B VB A, C he msp ee dT ec hn olo gie s, C re atio ns C ou le urs - C IT S ari, C re me rG are , C ro da , D r.S tra etm an s G mb H, In no sp ec ,In n ov ab io , IR B Is tit ut o d i R ic er ch e B io te cn o lo g ic heS ri , I SP , J an D e kk er I nt er na ti on al, L a bo ra to ir esE x pa ns cie nc e, L ab o ra to ir es P ro d 'H yg , L ab o ra to ir esS ero bio lo qiq ue s, L ac he mi C he mo rg s (P ) L td ,L ip ote c, L uc as M ey er C os me tics , M ib elleB io ch em is try, N an oU nio n, P ep tro n In c, P ER AG mb H, P ro vita l G ro up , P olym erE xp ert, R AD IA NTInc, RA HN A G, RES PHA RM A SRL, Rhodia,S en sie nt C os me tic T ec hn olo gie s, S EP PI C, S eta lg ,S ila b, S ou th ern C ro ss B ota nic als, S un C he mica l

P erfo rm an ce P ig me nts , S ym ris e, T ho r P ers on alC are, TO YOB O C O, Ltd, U nivar Eu rope, X-R ite,Z he jia ng C olo ra y T ec hn olo gy D ev elo pm e nt

Fo r m ore de ta ils o n so me o f t he in gred ien ts o ndisp lay, turn to pages 24-33 or dow nload theIn no va tio n G uid e a t www.ln-cosrnet lca.com/quide

L iv e i ng re d ie n ts d e m o ns tr at io n s10 liv e d em on stra tio ns a llo we d vis ito rs to p ic k u ptips and adv ice o n how to use th e in g red ien ts inth eir o wn fo rm ulat io ns , On e o f th e b es t atte nd edsessions w as prese nted by R hodia [see be low ] w hod em o ns tra te d th e b en efits o f in no va tiv e c olo ur-p ro te c te d s o lu ti on s ,

O th er d em o ns tra tio ns in clu de d: Grav im etric D isp en sin g Un it fo r Wax es

[ C hemspeed Technol og ie s ] V S4 50 '" [X -R ite M S dite rra ne e] Org an ic In no va tio ns [C re mer G are] S atiagel'"VP C 512 C arrageen an &A ctig um "V SX 2 0 [C arg ill E uro pe B VB A]

Silv er Vin e E xtra ct B G3Q 11[ Ja n Dek ke r I nt er nat io na l]

A ndean QD U ltra [PERA Gm bH] H yb rid ur S iIG are " S ilic on e WS I [C la ria nt ] A quea H CM C [A quea S cie ntific ]

F or m ore d eta ils , d ow nlo ad th e In no va tio nGu id e a t ww vv ,i n -c o sme ti cs , com / g ui d e

20/20 VisionIn ho no ur o f t he 20th an nive rs ary o f in -c os me tic s, M in te l s ea rc he d its b ea utyarc hive s a nd c re ated a v irtu al to ur o f k eyb ea uty in no vat io ns s in ce th e 1970s , T he s ho rtv id eo lo ok ed a t fiv e s ub ca te go rie s (a nt i-a ge in g s kin ca re , m as ca ra , lip stic k, h om e h airc olo ra nts a nd fin e fra gra nc e), It s ho we de xa m pl es o f in n ov at io n in in gr ed ie nts ,p ac ka gin g a nd c on ce pts in clu din g e ar~a nt i-w rin kle c re am s (w it h a nim a lp la ce nta ), th e firs t c ele br ity h air c ar eran ges an d th e ev olut io n o f m as ca rawands , View th e video at 1-

http://www.ln-cosrnetlca.com/quidehttp://www.ln-cosrnetlca.com/quide

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

23/44

This theme studied the other mega trend inb ea uty : th e w orld o f n atu re an d s co -c os me tic s.Team ed w ith M intel's Nu N atural trend it chartedth e em erg ing tren d fo r veg e tab le ex tra c ts insk in care laun ches . It a ls o tra cked h ow b randsh arm on io us ly m erg e " fre e fro m" p os it io nin g an d

selected by Mintel's global sustainability claimswith synthetic actives( pe ptid es , h ya lu ro nic a cid , c era m id es , c olla ge n,

spo tte rs , w ere g ro uped in to e tc ) fo r a n ew vis io n o f n a tu ra l.E xa mp le s in clu de d Ve ge ta ble G ard en 's B od y

M ois tu r iz in g So rb et w ith w /c arro t s ee d o il, th ym e,cu cum ber, b ro cco li, cab bage and tom ato and

This them e linked w ith the G atineau's A ge Benefit In tegral R egenerating C reamc on ta in s a rtic ho ke e xt ra ct, c er am id ss , h ya lu ro nicac id an d c la im s to b e fre e from pa raben ands ilic on e. D srm ath srm Lab ora to rie s c la im s to h av eth e firs t ce rtifie d o rgan ic s kin care ran ge th at us esUH T s te ril is at io n me th od s.

F ro m a n i ng re d ie n t p er sp ec tiv e ite xp lo re d th e u se o f n an ote ch no lo gya nd m e dic al- o r p ha rm a ce ut ic al-g ra d e a ct iv e s.P ro du cts in clu de d L an ca ste r S kin

T he rap y's n ew o xy ge natin g s kin ca re lin e w ithp er flu or od ec alin , Le M et ie r d e B ea ut s's re tin olb as ed tin te d an ti-ag ein g s erum an d Ch an el'sP re ci sio n U lt ra C o rr ec tio n Lift T ot al E ye Lift withm u ltip le p ep tid es , c ar no sin e (a h ea lth ca re a ctiv e)and the brand's patente d elem i P FA .

To m ake in no vat io n co me alive a nd in sp ire fu tu rec re at iv it y, M in te l B e au ty I nn o va tio n o ffe re d t wic e-d aily in te ra ctiv e ta st in g a nd te stin g s es sio ns .

C os me tic S pa rk sTh is s ess io n fo cus ed on an em erg in g trend : B eau ty" Tra ns fo rm e rs ". It fe atu re d b ea uty p ro du cts w ithc ha ng in g te xt ur es , m ix -it-y ou rs elf fo rm ats a ndh yb rid c ro ss -c ate go ry p ro du cts. O riks B B C re amw as a f av ou rit e o f v is it or s fo r it s m ic ro e nc ap su la te dp ig me nt s (fro m in -c os m etic s e xh ib ito r K or ea n-b as ed B io ge nics ) a nd th e fa ct th at IT lis te din gre die nt s up plie r S ila b o n th e fro nt o f th e fla co n.

B eauty Food Tastingvlsttors had the o pportunity to try th e la test snacksa nd d rin ks W IT h b ea uty e nh an cin g c la im s. C orne xtra ct (w ith c aro te ne ) is e me rg in g in A sia nlau nches w hile Wes te rn be au ty d rin ks fo cus ed on

In s ta n t B e au ty an tio x idan ts in tea a nd cho co la te .Th is d is play fo cu se d o n co nve nie nce an d s pe ed . A sa n a sp ec t o f M in te l's T ec hn o B ea uty p ac ka gin gtre nd , th es e la un ch es h ig hlig hte d q uick re su lts a nde rgo nom ic packag ing sh apes as w ell a s u se o fs oun d, lig ht an d m otio n to e as e app lica t io n.

P roducts inc lude d HD ready m akeup from Po la(Ja pa n) a nd U rb an D ec ay , a s w ell a s S cu lp tin exLiftin g Firm in g Fac e Tre atm en t in a pum p d is pe ns in gtu be w ith a fla t ro ll-o n a pp lic ato r a nd A m eric anC re w's h air re gro wth tre atm en t p atc he s.

DOWNLOADgInnovation Zone Guide

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

24/44

D r, A la in K h a ia ts c o op s L ife t im eA ch ie v em en t aw a rdIn a fiercely fought competition, Dr, Khaiat beat three other finaliststo take home the prestigious award at a glittering ceremony atthis year's show

co sm etic s c ien ce . M ore th an 1 ,800 p eo ple ca stth eir v ote b efo re it was wh it tled d own to fou rdeserving finalists, all of whom then battled it out ina p ub lic v ote .

D r. Kh aia t h as b ee n in vo lve d in th e fie ld o fs c ie n ce f or o v er 40 y e ar s a n d e v en po st -r et ir em e n tc on tin ue s to c on trib ut e s ig nific an tly to th e c os m et icind us try, H e h as w orke d fo r s eve ra l la rge

D r. K arl L in tn er, D r. Dan ie l M as s an d D r. Jo han n co mpan ie s th ro ugh ou t h is ca re er , in clud ing R ev lo n,W ie ch ers w ere a ll in th e ru nn in g b ut it w as D r. w h ere h e cc-o rd in a te d a ll tech n ic a l ac tiv it ie s o u ts id eK ha ia t 's li fe lo ng d ed ica tio n to th e c osm etic in dus try th e USA , Yv es R och er Co sm etics , w he re h e w asth a t saw h im com e out top .

T he in -c os m etic s L ife tim e A ch ie ve m en t A wa rdh on ou rs an o uts ta nd in g in div id ua l w ho seprofessional accom plishm en ts have m ade asignificant and lasting im pact on the field of

re sp on sib le fo r a ra ng e o f k ey p ro du ctd eve lo pm en ts an d Joh nso n & Joh nso n.

Dr, Khaiat has alw ays dedicated his tim e toed ucatin g and em phas is in g th e im po rta nce o fsa fe ty w ith in th e cosm et ics in du s try and w as th e

fo un din g m em be r o f s eve ra l A SE AN a ss oc ia t io ns .In de ed , he h as b ee n cre dited for brin gin g to ge the rth e A sia n, A me ric an a nd E uro pe an c os me ticm arke ts an d is con s id e re d to be a key ed uca to r int he f ie ld .

D r. K ha ia t, s aid ab ou t re ce iv in g h is aw ard : " I a mre ally o verw helm ed to re ce ive this a wa rd , A ~h ou ghit is g rea t to w in , th e m os t im po rtan t part fo r m e isthat it is recognition for everything that I have donein m y career. I a m delighted that m y colleagues andpee rs have such fo nd m em ories o f o ur t im e spe n two rk in g t oge th e r. "

R ic ha rd H es k, G ro up E xh ib itio n D ir ec to r,co mm en te d: "W hile a ll of th e fina lists are extre me lyd es erv in g o f th eir n om in atio ns , w e'd lik e tosa y a h ug e c on gr at ula tio ns to D r. K ha ia t.He has long been a leading figure w ithinth e co sm etic s in dus try an d w e'repleased to be able to recognise this andpass o n th e co mm en dat io n h e d ese rve s.

w e had to th e aw ard s and th e n um be rof votes cast. It goes to show justh ow v alu ed e ac h fin alis t is w it hintheir fie ld and how their hardw ork and ded ica t io n hasin sp ire d o th ers w ith in t heindustry,"

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

25/44

..L'.:. DV~ Nt&.-L_l_dvanced invitrocell technologies

SKIN-CARE & COSMETICSDEVe;lOPMENT ~ CLAIM SUPPORT

ALTERNATIVE TO ArlliMAL EXPERIMENTATION

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

26/44

Exceptional

UNIPROMA unveiled i ts new 360 degree Sun CareS olu tio n ra ng e a t in -co sm etic s 2 01 0.A t the core of the range is a consolidation of the

SUNSAFE series UV filters and the U-MAP/U-SAPseries stab ilise d VC an tio xid an ts, w hich thec om pa ny s uc ce ss fu lly la un ch ed a t in -c os me tic s2008 and 2009. UNIPROMA also demonstrated ara ng e o f s kin c ar e in gre die nts , in clu din g s un sc re en sthat are organic or inorganic, UVA effective, or U VBe ff ec ti ve and an ti ox id ant s.U niprom a reporte d that sun care today is m ore

c om plic ate d a nd d ive rs ifie d th an ju st o ne o r tw osunsc reens . Consumers a re loo k ing f or a ll r ound sunp ro te ct io n, s kin li gh te ni ng o r a nt i- ag ei ngform ulations. A ccording to U niprom a sales, over 2 0pe r ce nt o f in quirie s on the a ntio xid ants a re re la tedto sun care. Inresponse to this, the companyde ve lo pe d a ne w ide a, con so lid ating th e tw o se rie s

Geotech Inte rna tional B.V. launched a range of new products including: Midnightblack D waterbased dispersionMBD 231 is a new, paraben free, carbon black dispersion. The water based dispersion has acarbon black loading of 20 per cent. The dispersion is easy to mix into formulations such asmascara's and eye liners

Geopear1 1l Colour Travel rangeA new range of mica based pearlescent pigments which offers real colour travel. The range isavailable in 3 different effects: Green to Red, Violet to Orange and Red to Gold. Each effect isavailable in two different particle sizes: Regular 10 - 60 micron and Sparkling 20 - 150 micron

Geopear llll Sparkling rangeA new range of interference pearlescent pigments with a particle sizedistribution of 20 - 150 micron. The colours available are: Gold, Red,Green, Blue and Violet. A new golden pearlescent pigment is alsonow availab le: Geopearl Sparkling Lemon Gold 20 - 150 micron

Geoshine" C ultra thin glitterA new range of ultra thin cosmetic approved polyester glitter in particle sizes of 002 HEX and006 HEX. The new range is made out of a 12 micron thick film which enhances the feeling onthe skin compared to the standard glitter flakes. Colours available: Aztec Gold, Malibu Gold,Red Gold, Sand, Blue, Green and Pink

Meta lloy" Sparkling Shining SilverA new course aluminum pigment. The new MetalloyaSparkling Shining Silver has a particle sizedistribution of 10 - 100 micron. Theproduct gives a bri ll iant spark lingreflection to nai l pol ishes,lipst icks and pressed powders

INTERPOLYMER introduced SYNTRAN. PC 5775 aw at er re sis ta nt film fo rm er fo r d ec ora tiv e c os me tic s.

Its film fo rm in g p ro pe rtie s p ro vid e q uic k-s et,s up er io r w a te r- re sis ta nc e, a dh es io n a n d f le xib ili ty .SYNTRAN. PC 5775 is specifically engineered todel iver enhanced hydrophobic character for longerl as ti ng fo rmu la ti ons.Mrs Laetitia Marlier, Category Manager,

com mente d: "W e w ere very satisfied w ith the showin Paris. W e have seen a fantastic interest in ournew product SYNTRAN, PC 5775 which hasg en era te d a re co rd n um be r o f e nq uirie s".Celebrating its 1Oth anniversary this year.

INTERPOLYMER France supplies the cosmeticsindustry with water-based special ty polymers inEMEA regions and Asia. INTERPOLYMER can

custom er's very specific needs. B eing part o fINTERPOLYMER Corporation. a recentlyconstructed factory in China reinforces the globalsupply chain and confirms the company'scom mitm ent to the future of th e co sm etics indu stry.

8/3/2019 10 Cos Me Tick

27/44

Ecocert certifiedAt in -cosm etics c lear ly op tim ised in dam aged ha ir and th e ha ir2010, RAHN surface structure.promoted its new The efficacy of AQUARIGH (eco) has beeneeacert certified proven in several studies:mo is tur ise r Deep-ac ting and long -lasting improvem en t o f sk inAQUARIGH (eco) - hydration (in-vivo study)mo is tu re and care fo r E nhancemen t of s kin m ois tu tis atio n a lre ad y at a u seskin and hair. level of 1 per cent AQUARIGH (eco) (in-vivo study)

Th e ex trac t from Ha ir-R epair-E ffs ct: Im p ro vem en t o f h air su rfaceb la ck o ats (A ve n a s tr ig o s a ) co n ta in s w ate r -re ta in in g s tru c tu re b y u p to 4 3 p e r ce n t a t a u s e le ve l o fsubstances such as polysaccharides and amino 0.2 per cent AQUARIGH (eco) (ex-vivo study)a cid s s upp ortin g th e s kin 's o wn n atu ra l m ois tu ris in gfactor. Through its stabilising activity during the AQUARIGH (eco) is suitable for any kindformation of biologicalmembranes, Lecithin of moisturisingskin, body and hair care. I tcancon tribu tes to suppo rt th e lam ella r lip id m atrix o f th e be in co rpo ra ted in ge ls , em uls ions , sham poosepidermis. AQUARIGH (eco) visibly improves the and conditioners.appearance o f d ry sk in , and when app lied to ha ir, R ecomm ended use level: 1 - 5 per cent fo r skinAQUARIGH (eco) also has a repair-effect which is and body care, 0.2. - 2 per cent for hair care.

Su s ta in ab le s o lu tio n sR ho dia in tro duced a ran ge o f pro ducts for de sign in g eco -frie ndly h air an d s kin care fo rm ulatio ns .The Group has evaluated the sustainabil ity profi le of i ts Personal Gare product ranges