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Use of Adhesive and Primers inUse of Adhesive and Primers in

Shoe ManufacturingShoe Manufacturing

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AdhesivesAdhesives

Adhesives are used in shoe manufacturing toAdhesives are used in shoe manufacturing tojoin two or more component together eitherjoin two or more component together eithertemporarily or permanently. Two componentstemporarily or permanently. Two components

subjected to be stitched together or where onesubjected to be stitched together or where oneof the component will be attached permanentlyof the component will be attached permanentlywith some other component, may be joinedwith some other component, may be joinedtogether using temporary attachment. E.g.together using temporary attachment. E.g.Vamp and quarter joining, Socks attachment ,Vamp and quarter joining, Socks attachment ,Lasting etc. In a shoe upper most of theLasting etc. In a shoe upper most of theattachments are temporary attachment.attachments are temporary attachment.

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AdhesivesAdhesives

The parts of a shoe where no stitching is used,The parts of a shoe where no stitching is used,components are joined with such adhesives whichcomponents are joined with such adhesives whichprovide permanent adhesion. E.g. Attachment of upperprovide permanent adhesion. E.g. Attachment of upper

and outsole in a stuck on construction.and outsole in a stuck on construction.Some adhesives are temporary or permanent in natureSome adhesives are temporary or permanent in naturebut introduced to enhance productivity, materialbut introduced to enhance productivity, materialhandling, cost reduction and environmental safeguard.handling, cost reduction and environmental safeguard.

However it is good practice to use right quantity ofHowever it is good practice to use right quantity ofadhesive and wherever possible avoid use of adhesive.adhesive and wherever possible avoid use of adhesive.

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AdhesivesAdhesives

Pressure sensitive adhesivePressure sensitive adhesive

Used in reinforcement tapes, packing tapes and labels.Used in reinforcement tapes, packing tapes and labels.

Hot melt AdhesiveHot melt Adhesive

PolyamidePolyamide Used in folding, Side and HeelUsed in folding, Side and Heellastinglasting

PolyesterPolyester Used for Toe & Forepart LastingUsed for Toe & Forepart Lasting

EVAEVA a. Used as sugar coating in interlining,a. Used as sugar coating in interlining,b. Insole attachment with the lastb. Insole attachment with the last

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PrimersPrimers

Some soling material does not have requiredSome soling material does not have requiredcompatibility, hence special chemical treatment neededcompatibility, hence special chemical treatment neededprior to adhesive application. Primers are used toprior to adhesive application. Primers are used to

enhance the compatibility of the sole with the adhesive.enhance the compatibility of the sole with the adhesive.Therefore material specific primers have to be used inTherefore material specific primers have to be used insuch cases.such cases.

Some sole need only cleaning with chemical beforeSome sole need only cleaning with chemical before

adhesive application.adhesive application. For the sole material like MCR, VR prior roughing isFor the sole material like MCR, VR prior roughing is

important. Only roughing is sufficient for leather soleimportant. Only roughing is sufficient for leather sole

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Chemical treatment on sole**Chemical treatment on sole**

SoleSole TreatmentTreatment AdhesiveAdhesive

LeatherLeather RoughRough PchloroprenePchloroprene(2 coat)(2 coat)

TPRTPR TPR PrimerTPR Primer PUPU

PUPU Rough & MEK WipeRough & MEK Wipe PUPUEVAEVA EVA PrimerEVA Primer PUPUPVCPVC MEK WipeMEK Wipe PUPU

Resin RubberResin Rubber Rubber primerRubber primer PChloroprenePChloropreneVRVR Rough and primeRough and prime PUPU

MCRMCR RoughRough & rubber primer& rubber primer PUPU

** Upper material is leather** Upper material is leatherSuitable chemical treatment may be given to the lasting margin of Non Leather upperSuitable chemical treatment may be given to the lasting margin of Non Leather upper

before adhesive application.before adhesive application.

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Sole ReactivationSole Reactivation

The dried adhesive film has to be melted henceThe dried adhesive film has to be melted henceheat reactivated before fusing together in theheat reactivated before fusing together in theprocess of sole attaching. The temperatureprocess of sole attaching. The temperature

depends on adhesive used.depends on adhesive used.AdhesiveAdhesive TemperatureTemperature

PolychloroprenePolychloroprene 656500 ---- 707000 CC

PolyurethanePolyurethane 808000 ---- 858500CCThe shoe must be allowed to cool down beforeThe shoe must be allowed to cool down before

released from the last.released from the last.

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Quality in Sole attachmentQuality in Sole attachment

65% of customer complain is regarding sole65% of customer complain is regarding sole

adhesion failure.adhesion failure.

The following test can be carried out in the factoryThe following test can be carried out in the factory

level. This will minimize the problem.level. This will minimize the problem.

a.a. Carbon Paper testCarbon Paper testb.b. SATRA Sole adhesion testSATRA Sole adhesion test

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Finishing ofFootwearFinishing ofFootwear

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Finishing ofFootwearFinishing ofFootwear

The process which enhancesThe process which enhancesthe appearance and restorethe appearance and restorethe inherent characteristics ofthe inherent characteristics ofthe upper leather is calledthe upper leather is calledshoe finishing. This is doneshoe finishing. This is done

to upgrade the quality andto upgrade the quality andthe aesthetic appeal of thethe aesthetic appeal of theproduct or to give specialproduct or to give special

appearance.appearance.ComparativeComparative

ccost involvement in an upper is givenost involvement in an upper is givenhere (%)here (%)

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

Upper

Lining

Finish

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Criteria of identifying the Top CoatCriteria of identifying the Top Coat

LeatherLeather FinishFinish Effect of diluteEffect of diluteAmmoniaAmmonia

Effect of diluteEffect of diluteAmmoniaAmmonia

Aniline Calf,Aniline Calf,

Glazed KidGlazed Kid

Semi aniline, ResinSemi aniline, Resin

PUCoatedPUCoated

Burnish, Oil pullBurnish, Oil pullupup

Split printed,Split printed,

Patent,CoatedPatent,CoatedSplitSplit

ProteinProtein

ResinResin

PUPU

Wax/ OilWax/ Oil

PVCPVC

Color removed slightlyColor removed slightly

No effectNo effect

No effectNo effect

No effectNo effect

No effectNo effect

No effectNo effect

Color removedColor removedslightlyslightly

No effectNo effect

No effectNo effect

Slight TackinessSlight Tackiness

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Shoe Finishing ProcessShoe Finishing Process

CleaningCleaning

Remove visible and invisible dirt like adhesive,oils,Remove visible and invisible dirt like adhesive,oils,edge colors.edge colors.

RepairingRepairingNot a mandatory operation. Only in case ofminorNot a mandatory operation. Only in case ofminordamage caused by roughing or any otherdamage caused by roughing or any otherscratches.scratches.

Wrinkle ChasingWrinkle Chasing

Done by hot air blowor ironing.Done by hot air blowor ironing.

Filling by base coat applicationFilling by base coat application

Prevent sinking ofthe top coat into the material duePrevent sinking ofthe top coat into the material duetoopen grain or dryness ofleather.toopen grain or dryness ofleather.

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Shoe Finishing ProcessShoe Finishing Process

Top Coat applicationTop Coat application

This is final treatment. Gives the shoe itsThis is final treatment. Gives the shoe itsdesired effectdesired effect

Cutting and polishingCutting and polishing

Process ofsmoothen the grain on the upper byProcess ofsmoothen the grain on the upper bycotton brush (cutting) subsequentlycotton brush (cutting) subsequently

polished by woolen brush.polished by woolen brush.Spray finish can also be used on some leatherSpray finish can also be used on some leather

like Nu buck,Suede, Oil pull up.like Nu buck,Suede, Oil pull up.

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Quality Control in FootwearQuality Control in Footwear

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What is quality controlWhat is quality control

The quality control refers to systematic control ofThe quality control refers to systematic control ofvariables encountered in a manufacturing processvariables encountered in a manufacturing process

which affects the end product. Such variableswhich affects the end product. Such variables

results from the application of materials, machinesresults from the application of materials, machinesand manufacturing conditions. Only when theseand manufacturing conditions. Only when thesevariables are regulated to the extent that the do notvariables are regulated to the extent that the do not

detract unnecessarily from the excellence of thedetract unnecessarily from the excellence of themanufacturing process as reflected in quality of themanufacturing process as reflected in quality of the

finished product, can control of quality said to exist.finished product, can control of quality said to exist.

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Quality SpecificationQuality Specification

The preThe pre-- determined quality requirementsdetermined quality requirementsare built during the process ofare built during the process of

manufacturing itself. Since quality dependsmanufacturing itself. Since quality dependsupon all the elements of production viz:upon all the elements of production viz:raw material, equipment, and workmen,raw material, equipment, and workmen,

hence, hence all these must be tied up. Thehence, hence all these must be tied up. Thefirst and foremost step to ensure quality isfirst and foremost step to ensure quality isto lay down quality specification.to lay down quality specification.

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Specifications are the description of theSpecifications are the description of themeasurable and non measurable characteristicsmeasurable and non measurable characteristicsof the product. These are mainly fore types:of the product. These are mainly fore types:

Material specificationMaterial specification

These pertain to the raw material aspects ofThese pertain to the raw material aspects of

footwear. Material specifications are based onfootwear. Material specifications are based onthe experience, tests, experiments and appliedthe experience, tests, experiments and appliedresearch.research.

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Dimensional specificationDimensional specification

They refer to the size aspect of the footwear andThey refer to the size aspect of the footwear and

they are the ones that are incorporated in thethey are the ones that are incorporated in thedesign component drawings. Exact sizes are notdesign component drawings. Exact sizes are notspecified since the assembly will function despitespecified since the assembly will function despite

some variations. Tolerance on the dimensionssome variations. Tolerance on the dimensions

are therefore specified to indicate the maximumare therefore specified to indicate the maximumvariability.variability.

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Performance specificationPerformance specification

Refer to the actual performance to the footwear.Refer to the actual performance to the footwear.

E.g. some footwear is the insole must no crackE.g. some footwear is the insole must no crackeasily, hence laboratory test as to be conductedeasily, hence laboratory test as to be conductedto ensure its performance.to ensure its performance.

Environmental specificationEnvironmental specification

Pertain to the climatic condition which thePertain to the climatic condition which thecomponent/ product/ material shouldcomponent/ product/ material shouldwithstand ( e.g. Temperature, moisture etc.)withstand ( e.g. Temperature, moisture etc.)

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Quality standardQuality standard

The quality standard must be definite andThe quality standard must be definite andunderstandable. They must not leave a singleunderstandable. They must not leave a singledoubt for any department, be it manufacturing,doubt for any department, be it manufacturing,

inspection and any other. The reliance of theinspection and any other. The reliance of thejudgment and the problem of interpretationjudgment and the problem of interpretationduring inspection must be remote.during inspection must be remote.

Quality standards should be reasonable andQuality standards should be reasonable and

achievable, i.e. they must be economically viable.achievable, i.e. they must be economically viable.Therefore, the quality standards must be takenTherefore, the quality standards must be takeninto account permissible amount of variationinto account permissible amount of variationform the idealform the ideal

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The quality controlfunction may beThe quality controlfunction may be

looked upon as integrated functionlooked upon as integrated functionstarts from raw material purchase,starts from raw material purchase,

the quality ofproduction aid, thethe quality ofproduction aid, the

manufacturing process,manufacturing process,

manufacturing facility provided,manufacturing facility provided,

workmanship and the system forworkmanship and the system formonitoring employed.monitoring employed.

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BenefitsBenefits

Ensure adequate maintenance of qualityEnsure adequate maintenance of quality

Ensure accurate fitting during assembly of parts.Ensure accurate fitting during assembly of parts.

Gives economy in production through reductionGives economy in production through reductionof defective work.of defective work.

Prevent idle time of labour and machinePrevent idle time of labour and machine

utilization.utilization.

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Tools for inspectionTools for inspection

The approved sampleThe approved sample

Good lightingGood lighting

A pair of scissorsA pair of scissors Crepe rubberCrepe rubber

Work ticketWork ticket

Documents

11th & 12th Session