23 .. HOPE Gown

Copyright 1999 (Fits 23" Hope Body, 23" Hope Anns, 23" Hope Legs)

FABRICS & NOTIONS 1 1/2 Yds. Gold Brocade 45" Width - dress

PATTERN NUMBER DA 1460

BODY PATTERN DA 1435

1 Yd. Cream Acetate Lining 45" Width - bodice, panties, slip skirt 1 Yd. Net Interfacing 45" Width - dress

THE DOLL

ARTWORKS LLC 288SHwyE

LATHAM MO 65050 800-886-3655

OPTIONAL - Additional netting may be used on the petticoat if you TEL 660-458-6373 FAX 660-458-6376 dollartworks.com dolJart@jland.net

want the skirt to look like a "Southern Bell". 1 Yd. Cream Lingerie Lace Elastic 3/B" Width - panties, slip 1 1/B Yds. Gold Metallic Ribbon (With Wire) 2" Width - sleeves 3 Small Snaps - bodice 1 Small Hook & Eye Set - petticoat Gold Glitter Fabric Paint - leaves Fabri Tac Glue - leaves, hemming bow & tails

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE CUTTING FABIRCS A. There are a combination of 1/4" and 318" seams. Please pay careful attention to the

instructions marked on the pattern pieces. B. All pattern pieces are sewn with right sides together unless otherwise indicated. C. This pattern is sized to fit a doll made from Bell Porcelain slip. If your doll is made with

porcelain which does not shrink the same as Bell's adjustments will be necessary. D. "Hope's" measurements are given in the Lady Body Pattern DA 1435.

DRESS CONSTRUCTION: 1. After cutting out all dress pieces as

directed, staystitch the net interfacing on back of the bodice, sleeves and skirt. Each garment piece will now be considered one fabric.

2. Sew ease stitches between the notches on the side front. Matching notches, sew the bodice side front to the bodice front. Prepare both sides.

3. Sew the bodice backs to the side fronts. 4. Stitch the sleeve underarm seam.

Prepare both sleeves. 5. Match notches, pin and sew sleeve to

armhole curve. The top of the sleeve will extend about 1/4" higher than the bodice center front and bodice center back. Round off the corners of the sleeves to blend in with the bodice front and back. Repeat Steps 2 thru 4 for the lining.

6. Sew the bodice and bodice lining together around the neck, across the sleeve tops, and down the center backs. Clip seams where necessary, turn and press.

7. Pull seam allowance and lining away from the bodice and edge stitch about1/16" from the bodice and lining seam. This will help the lining to lie flat. Set aside.

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B. Fold the sleeve lower edge under 1/4". Repeat for sleeve lining then slipstitch the two edges together. Prepare both sleeves.

9. Match notches and sew the skirt sections together. Leave skirt back seam open until Step 10 is finished.

10.Sew the bias fabric binding around the bottom skirt edge using a 3/B" seam allowance. Serge the lower edge of the binding. Then sew the skirt back seam, leaving an opening, as pattern indicates.

11. Fold the fabric binding under the skirt (on the fold line) forming a band on the skirt bottom. See Flier. Carefully pin the binding in place to the wrong side of the skirt hem. With the skirt facing right side up, "stitch in the ditch" around the skirt at the edge of the fabric binding and skirt seam.

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12.Fold and pin pleats in place on the skirt top edge. The center front skirt pleat should line up with the center front section of the bodice.

13. Pin and sew skirt to bodice. The skirt back seam will be "off center".

14. Sew three snaps on the bodice lower back. See Pattern For Placement.

15. Press under 1/4" seam allowances on the bow and bow tails for the dress back. Place a narrow bead of Fabri-Tac Glue inside the 1/4" seam allowances and press seam in place with fingers. Allow to dry.

16. Sew loops on each bow tail as pattern indicates. See Side View Diagram Of Bows On Page 2.

17. Pleat the top of each bow tail. Pin and hand stitch to the bodice back.

See Sketch On Page 2.

PETTICOAT CONSTRUCTION: 1B. Sew the center back seam as indicated

on the pattern.

19. Sew 1/B" hem around the bottom edge. Using a 1/B" rolled hem attachment is quite helpful and fast.

20. Narrow hem the skirt opening from the waist to the e.

21. Cut a length of lace elastic 7 1/2" long. Turn under each end about 1/4" and tack in place. Zigzag this elastic to the waist of the petticoat. Allow the lower edge of the elastic to lap over the waist edge about 1/4". ~'t-

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22. Sew a small hook and eye set on the elastic ends. The petticoat should open at center back.

PANTIES CONSTRUCTION: 23. Zigzag lingerie lace elastic on the sides

of the panties.

24. Zigzag a 7 1/2" length of elastic around the waist. Lap the ends one over the other about 1/4" and stitch together.

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SLEEVE & BODICE DECORA TlONS: 25. Draw 11 Ig. leaves and 6 med. leaves. 26. Outline each leaf and draw in the center

vein with a thin bead of gold glitter paint. When dry cut out leaves and glue to dress. Glue 2 Ig. leaves each side of front bodice neckline; 3 med. leaves on bodice back opening (each side); 3 or 4 Ig. leaves on each side of lower bodice. All leaves are overlapped as shown on the "flier". Leaf drawings are on Page 2 for size and shape.

27. Sleeve - Cut 2 gold ribbons each 20" X 2".

PAGE 1 OF 8

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2S. Tum under a 1/S" hem on each ribbon end and hand stitch in place. Sew a row of gathering stitches lengthwise at the center. Pull up gathers to fit the middle of the sleeves from side to side. Hand stitch in place. Prepare both ribbons.

29. Fashion a broach with a 3/S" button or a small piece of jewelry. The dangle earrings and "drop" for necklace were made from small pieces of costume jewelry.

This pattern contains 13 pattern pieces. A - - BODICE FRONT B - - BODICE SIDE FRONT C - - BODICE BACK 0- - SLEEVE E - - SKIRT FRONT F - - SKIRT SIDE FRONT AND BACK FF - SKIRT SIDE FR. & BK. EXTENSION "A" FF - SKIRT SIDE FR. & BK. EXTENSION "B" G - - SKIRT BACK H - - SKIRT FABRIC BINDING 1- - PETTICOAT FRONT & BACK I-I - -PETTICOAT FR. & BK. EXTENSION "A" J - - PANTIES

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PATIERN NUMBER DA 1460 Copyright 1999

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SIDE VIEW OF SMALL BOWS

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SIDE VIEW OF LARGE BOW

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TEMPLATE BOW TAILS

DA1460 23" Hope Gown

Cut 2 3 1/4" Wide x 24" Long(Side BowTails) Cut 1 5" Wide x 24" Long(Center BowTall)

, PAGE 2 OF 8

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DA 1460 23" Hope Gown

SKIRT SIDE FRONT AND BACK CUT 2 - Brocade CUT 2 - Lining

CUT 2 - Net

©1999

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PATIERN NUMBER DA 1460 Copyright 1999

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OA 1460 23" Hope GOWn

SKIRr SIDE FRoNT AND BACK EJ<rENSION • "B"

Tape to (FF) EXTENSION· "A" before cutting fabric.

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DA 1460 23" Hope Gown

SKIRT SIDE FRONT AND BACK EXTENSION· "A"

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