(1) Round bobbin machinescome in a variety of cases, butmostly in the suitcase, (shownabove) or domed types (as below).

(2) Examine cases for signs ofwoodworm!

Customs do examine shipments.Signs of worm - treated or not -have previously delayed entireshipments. This is not only a dis-appointment, but also incursexpensive port levies for delayingclearance. So discard the box, donot treat it.

(3) The machine itself is held in awooden base by two hinges at theback of the machine and a catchat the right hand side.

(4) Release the retaining catch.

(5) Remove the machine from its case by tilting it back and undoing the two grub screws.

(6) Then lift it clear of the two finger hinges.

(7) Clean out all debris from under the machine and from the accessoriescompartment.

Remember that the machineswill not remain upright duringtransit, so any pins, needles andfluff in the bottom may well bedeposited in the works duringthat time unless you remove it.

(8) Examine the state of anyaccessories and needles present for rust and damage. Discard any thatare not in good condition.

(9) Turn the base over andmake sure the bolts holdingin the machine hinges arepresent and tight.

Slight damage to the case is notimportant, but the case shouldbe secure and safe to use. Checkall joints and re-glue where need-ed. Make sure the corner blocksare present and secure. Either re-glue or remove any veneer thathas split. Holes in the bottommay be repaired either by replac-ing the ply completely or wherethe damage is small gluing apatch to the inside of the base.

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(10) If one or more of the rubber feet are worn or missing,remove all four completely.

(11) Make sure the small halfmoon leather or rubberpieces are intact on top of the corner blocks at the front of the machine.

These deaden any vibration andalso lift the machine a little sothat the cover plate does not foulthe side of the base whenopened.

Domed case:

The lid and the base are heldtogether by a lock at one end, anda case fitting at the other.

(12) Three different keys havebeen used over the years. Thesquare ended one came first,then the one with the flat tongue,followed by the notched one. Thislast type cannot be removed fromthe lock while the lock is undone.

If a key is missing, the lid can beunlocked with a small screw-dri-ver, or the tang of a file for thefirst type.

(13) If the key is missing make areplacement from a flat cut nail,with the end filed as requiredand the other end bent for grip.

The case fittings vary but in eachcase, they rely on the lock to holdthe lid in correct alignment.

Each pair of fittings works in thesame way with the top fittingentering the bottom one, and thelid then slid to the left to engage.

(14) Type A in the picture is anearly model and attaches to theoutside of the case.

Quite often the fixing screwswork loose. If the holes are tooworn to tighten the screws, pusha sliver of wood into the holesand try again.

(15) Type B and (16) Type C areless problematical, but cansometimes become bent. Makesure the bottom fitting lies levelwith the case, and the top onethen secures the case.

(17) Clean out any fluff etc from the case fittings to ensurethey can latch properly.

(18) Oil the lock and work it a few times to make sure it isworking easily.

The lock is only attached to itscover plate by two small flanges.If these have become loose, theycan be tapped with a hammerand punch to tighten them.

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(19) Check that the handle is secure. Tighten up the nutsinside the lid.

If the handle has been loose for awhile, the wood may be brokenround it. If so, spread the load bysandwiching the handle betweenmetal plates outside and insidethe lid.

Suitcase type case

(20) The machine in its baseslides into the box, which opensfrom the side. There are two bat-tens at each side that prevent themachine from moving.

Two types of fastenings are usedon these cases. One is a suitcasetype lock with latch and lock.

Since the latch is secure enough,we do not bother with providingkeys.

(21) The other type uses springcatches, and these can be dam-aged. Replace them with a sim-ple latch , or fasten up with stringor rope and leave it to us atNetley Marsh, as we have spares.

(22) The bottom of the lid haspins, which fit into holes in smallmetal plates at the bottom of thebox. Make sure these are intact.

The leatherette cover of the caseis frequently scuffed and torn.Where possible glue down anytorn pieces.

Finally, for all types

(23) Wipe over the outside of thebox with a damp cloth toremove flyspecks and dirt.

If you wish, a final polish can begiven. It can make it difficult toattach the Refurbishment Recordform though!

(24) You may find a base exten-sion piece inside the box like theone shown above. This is a rough-ly square wooden piece with ametal bracket at one end.

(25) It fits into the left hand bot-tom case fitting to extend theworking area. There is a differentbracket for case fittings B or C.

If present, check that: a. It is theright fitting for the case. (Casesdo get swapped about), and b.That it is in good condition withno loose ply or bent brackets.

For storage, the extension piece iskept in the lid of both types ofcases. The bracket fits into anotch or slot at one end, while awooden bracket holds an oppo-site corner. It is then held inplace by a catch similar to thatholding the machine in the case.Make sure this catch is tightenough to do its function.

(26) You will sometimes findother metal fittings inside thecases, intended to locate oil cansetc. You may remove these asthey are not needed.

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