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Index

IND

EX

ABBREVIATIONSACT Australian Capital TerritoryNSW New South WalesNT Northern TerritoryQld QueenslandSA South AustraliaTas TasmaniaVic VictoriaWA Western AustraliaA

Abay Museum (Kaz) 189-90Abay State Opera & Ballet Theatre

(Kaz) 138Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (U) 259Abrashim Qala (Taj) 410Abylay Khan Residence Museum

(Kaz) 182Abylkayyr Khan 46accommodation 496-8, see also

individual locationsAchaemenid empire 34-5Achik Tash (Kyr) 362activities 104-15, see also individual

locations & activitiesitineraries 33, 33

adventure travel agencies 113-15Afghan Pamir 488-9Afghanistan 468-95, 470

accommodation 490activities 490arts 474-5border crossings 493-5climate 469costs 469, 492, 494embassies 490-1festivals 491food 476history 469-73information 477, 492itineraries 29, 469, 29safe travel 469shopping 492travel to/from 493-5travel within 495visas 491, 493

women in 68women travellers 493

Afrosiab (U) 245agriculture 56-7AIDS 533air travel 515-21, 524-5

airlines 516-17airports 516environmental issues 517fares 519, 525safety 518tickets 517-18to/from Central Asia 515-21within Central Asia 524-5

Aitmatov, Chinghiz 82, 294, 296, 319Ak-Baital (Taj) 416Ak-Balyk (Taj) 412Ak-Jilga (Taj) 412Ak-Sai (Kyr) 335Ak-Say Canyon 313, 11Ak-Saray Palace (U) 251-2Ak-Suu (Kyr) 363Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz)

98, 155-6Aktau (Kaz) 167-70, 168Ak-Terek (Kyr) 356Aktobe 163-5Aktyubinsk, see Aktobeakyns 82, 296Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 311-12Alamedin Canyon (Kyr) 312Alay Valley (Kyr) 361-3Al-Bukhari 250alcohol 88-9, 501Alexander the Great 35, 206, 241, 256,

353, 355, 373, 384, 390, 393, 425, 452, 487

Alichur (Taj) 412Alim Khan 268Al-Khorezmi 42Allakuli Khan Medressa (U) 273Almaty (Kaz) 126-42, 128-9, 143

accommodation 134-6activities 133attractions 131-3drinking 137-8entertainment 138-9food 136-7history 126-7information 127, 129, 130

money 129shopping 139-40travel agencies 130-1travel to/from 140-1travel within 141-2walking tour 133-4, 133

Al-Qaeda 473Altay Mountains (Kaz) 188-9altitude sickness 535Altyn Arashan (Kyr) 326-7Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 148-9amin, the 90amoebic dysentery 534amusement parks 153, 164, 221, 435ancient Khorezm (U) 270ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394Andijon (U) 239-40animal market (Kyr) 322animals 96-8, see also individual

speciesantelopes 124anthrax 534Aral Sea 100-1, 163, 277, 280Aral Sea memorial (U) 281Aral, see AralskAralsk (Kaz) 161-2Arasan Baths (Kaz) 133archaeological sites

Afrosiab (U) 245Ajina Teppe (Taj) 384ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394Balasagun (Kyr) 314Berel (Kaz) 189Besshatyr burial mounds (Kaz)

148Bunjikath (Taj) 384Burana Tower (Kyr) 314Dekhistan (Tur) 445Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454Elliq-Qala (U) 270Erk Kala (Tur) 452Giaur Kala (Tur) 452Gonur Depe (Tur) 453Hulbuk (Taj) 384Kara-Tepe (U) 255Khan Dëbë (Kyr) 333Kobadiyan (Taj) 384Koshkar Ata (Kaz) 170-1Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 345Kyz Kala (Tur) 453

ABBREVIATIONSKaz KazakhstanKyr KyrgyzstanTaj TajikistanTur TurkmenistanU UzbekistanAfg Afghanistan

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EX554 I N D E X ( A - B )

archaeological sites continuedMaghoki-Attar (U) 259Merv complex 451-3Sarazm (Taj) 384Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 171Sultan Epe (Kaz) 171Sultan Kala (Tur) 452-3Takht-i Sangin (Taj) 384Tamgaly petroglyphs (Kaz) 148Terekty petroglyphs (Kaz) 148

archaeologybooks 20, 76internet resources 34, 77, 84

architecture 76-9Ark, the (U) 261-2Arslanbob (Kyr) 352-4arts 76-84, see also individual countries

akyns 82, 296books 76, 80landays 475Manas epic 82, 296

Ashgabat (Tur) 430-42, 432accommodation 436-8activities 436attractions 433-6drinking 439entertainment 439food 438information 431, 433money 431shopping 439-40travel agencies 433travel to/from 440-1travel within 441

Astana (Kaz) 172-9, 174-5accommodation 177drinking 178entertainment 178food 177information 172-3tours 176travel to/from 178-9travel within 179

At-Bashy (Kyr) 345ATMs 505Atyrau (Kaz) 165-7, 166Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum (Kaz) 151

BBabazhi Katun Mausoleum (Kaz) 151Babur 47, 240, 358

Babur’s Gardens (Afg) 479Bactrian Gold 79Badai-Tugai Nature Reserve (U) 270Bakhautdin Naqshband Mausoleum

(U) 268Bakiev, Kurmanbek 61, 294, 295Balkanabat (Tur) 444-5Balkh (Afg) 487Balkhi, Lady Rabi’a 475, 487Balykchy (Kyr) 335Bamiyan (Afg) 481-3Band-e Amir (Afg) 483Barchadiev (Taj) 408Bardara (Taj) 408bargaining 506Barskoön (Kyr) 330-1Barskoön Waterfall (Kyr) 330Bash Gumbaz (Taj) 412Basid (Taj) 408bathhouses 133Batken (Kyr) 363-4Battle of Talas 41Baykonur Cosmodrome (Kaz) 159bazaars

Almaty (Kaz) 139-40Bishkek (Kyr) 303-4Bukhara (U) 259Carpet Bazaar (Afg) 479Chorsu (U) 218Fergana (U) 236Jahon (U) 240Jayma (Kyr) 358Panchshanbe (Taj) 390Shah Mansur (Green) (Taj) 385Tashkent (U) 226-7Tolkuchka (Tur) 435Urgut 250-1, 8Zelyony (Tur) 449-50

Bazar-Dara (Taj) 412beaches 168, 317, 325, 446Beket-Ata (Kaz) 170Bekhzod National Museum (Taj)

384Berdymukhamedov, Gurbanguly 428,

429, 442Berel (Kaz) 189Bibi Fatima Springs (Taj) 410Bibi-Khanym Mosque (U) 244bin Laden, Osama 60, 61, 473bird market 479Birds of Prey Festival (Kyr) 332birdwatching 98, 113

Kazakhstan 125, 130, 144, 179, 193

Uzbekistan 257, 259, 281

Bishkek (Kyr) 298-311, 300, 312accommodation 305-7activities 304attractions 302-4drinking 308entertainment 308-9festivals 305food 307history 298-9information 299, 301, 302,

304money 301shopping 309tour agencies 304tours 304travel agencies 302travel to/from 309-11travel within 311

Black Death 46black market 285boat travel 523Bodomdara (Taj) 408body language 67Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 332-3Bolsheviks 53-4books 20-2, see also literature &

individual countriesarchaeology 20, 76architecture 76art 76, 80environment 99food 85, 86health 532Silk Road 21travel 20-2

Bor Döbö (Taj) 416border crossings 521

Afghanistan 493-5Irkeshtam Pass (Kyr)

362Kazakhstan 200-1Kyrgyzstan 370-1problems 527Tajikistan 421-2tips 370Torugart Pass (Kyr)

346-8Turkmenistan 466-7Uzbekistan 287-8

borders 392, 527bribes 193bride kidnapping 293British empire 50brucellosis 533Buddha Niches (Afg) 482

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EXI N D E X ( B - E ) 555

Buddhist sitesAfghanistan 481-3Tajikistan 410Uzbekistan 254-5

Bukhara (U) 257-68, 260-1accommodation 264-5activities 263attractions 259-63drinking 266entertainment 266festivals 264food 265-6history 257-8information 258money 258shopping 266-7tours 263-4travel agencies 258-9travel to/from 267travel within 267-8

Bulunkul (Taj) 411Burabay National Nature Park (Kaz)

180Burana Tower (Kyr) 314Burnes, Alexander ‘Bukhara’ 50,

471bus travel 525-6business hours 498buzkashi 64, 12

Ccable cars 132, 385, 435-6camel trekking 109, 114, 115, 256,

270, 281, 414car travel 526-7caravanserais 346, 456Carpet Bazaar (Afg) 479Carpet Museum (Tur) 434carpets 81, 508

Afghanistan 479, 492customs regulations

(Turkmenistan) 461Kyrgyzstan 309shyrdaks 309, 339, 508Turkmenistan 434, 435, 439-40,

455Uzbekistan 226, 249, 266, 276

cave paintings 415Central Kyrgyzstan 335-48, 336Central Tian Shan (Kaz) 148Central Tian Shan (Kyr) 333-5ceramics 226, 239, 249chaikhanas 89Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 147Chashma Spring (U) 256

Chatyr Tash (Taj) 412chay 88Chicken Street (Afg) 479children, travel with 498-9Chimbulak (Kaz) 143-4Chinese Mosque (Kyr) 322Chinggis (Genghis) Khan 42-5, 119,

122, 156, 206, 212, 243, 246, 254, 258, 261, 293, 425, 451, 457, 470, 482, 486, 487

Chokur-Kul (Taj) 410Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 316-18, 317Chong Ak-Suu Valley (Kyr) 318Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 314Chong-Tash (Kyr) 294Chorsu Bazaar (U) 218cinema 79-80Citadel (Afg) 485climate 19, 499collectivisation 54communism 54

Afghanistan 471, 472Kazakhstan 120Kyrgyzstan 293Tajikistan 376Turkmenistan 427Uzbekistan 207

community-based tourism 106, 107itineraries 32Kazakhstan 156, 181Kyrgyzstan 297Tajikistan 395, 414Uzbekistan 257

Conolly, Arthur 264corruption 501-3cosmodromes 159costs 19-20cotton production 56-7, 209crafts 508credit cards 505crime 501Crimean Congo haemorrhagic fever

534-5cross-country skiing 112culture 69-70customs regulations 499-500, see

also individual countriescycling 110

DDari language 542-3Darvaza (Tur) 442Darvaza Gas Craters (Tur) 442Dashogus (Tur) 459-60

Dasht (Taj) 408Dayahattin Caravanserai (Tur) 456deep vein thrombosis (DVT ) 532Dekhistan (Tur) 445departure tax 518diarrhoea 534Dinosaur Plateau (Tur) 456, 457Dishon-Qala (U) 274documentation 502Dorut Tilyovat (U) 252Dostoevsky, Fyodor 189, 190Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 190dragon horses 40drinking 88-9, see also individual

countriesdrinking water 535Dubovy (Oak) Park (Kyr) 303Dungan people 67Dushanbe (Taj) 381-9, 383

accommodation 385-6activities 385attractions 382-5entertainment 387-8food 386-7history 381information 382money 382shopping 388travel agencies 382travel to/from 388-9travel within 389

Eeagle hunting 113, 331, 332, 12Earthquake Memorial (U) 220Earthquake Museum (Tur) 434ecotourism 23-4, see also community-

based tourismitineraries 32

Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454Eki-Naryn (Kyr) 343electricity 500Elliq-Qala (U) 270Emir’s Summer Palace (U) 268Engels Peak (Taj) 408environmental issues 99-103, see

also individual countriesAfghanistan 476air travel 517Aral Sea 56, 100-1books 99internet resources 99, 100,

102Kazakhstan 124-5Kyrgyzstan 297-8

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EX556 I N D E X ( E - H )

environmental issues continuedovergrazing 102poaching 102-3pollution 102Turkmenistan 430Uzbekistan 211Vozrozhdenie Ostrov 211

Erk Kala (Tur) 452Ethnography Museum (Kaz) 185-6etiquette 67, 69, 70

tea-drinking 91European Cemetery (Afg) 479events, see festivals

FFaizabad (Afg) 487-8Fan Mountains (Taj) 396-8, 396, 11Fayoz-Tepe (U) 254Fayzulla Khojaev House (U) 263Fedchenko Glacier (Taj) 416Fergana (U) 236-8, 237Fergana Valley (U) 232-40, 233Festival of National Cuisine & Folklore

(Kyr) 329festivals 502-4, see also individual

locationsBirds of Prey Festival (Kyr) 332buzkashi 64, 12Festival of National Cuisine &

Folklore (Kyr) 329food 87, 90Navrus 503-5

film 79-80Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan

219floor-ladies 498folk art 80-1food 85-7

customs 90-1festivals 87, 90laghman 86plov 86, 223shashlyk 85, 8vegetarian travellers 90

Fort Shevchenko (Kaz) 171fortresses

Elliq-Qala (U) 270fortress of Alexander the Great

(U) 256Giaur Kala (Tur) 452Gyaur-Qala (U) 270

Hissar (Taj) 389Kafir-Qala (Taj) 411Khaakha fortress (Taj) 409Kuhna Ark (U) 273Kyr Kyz (U) 255Mug Teppe (Taj) 393

Foster, Norman 173, 176four-wheel drive trips 112

Afghanistan 484, 488Kazakhstan 155, 170Tajikistan 403, 414, 415Turkmenistan 114, 442, 454Kyrgyzstan 327, 334, 335,

364Friday Mosque, Herat (Afg) 485Frunze House-Museum (Kyr) 303Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich 303

GGaram Chashma (Taj) 409gardens, see parks & gardensgas craters 442gay travellers 138, 462, 502Gazar Gah (Afg) 485Geisev Valley (Taj) 407Genghis Khan, see Chinggis (Genghis)

Khangeography 95-6Geok-Depe (Tur) 441-2geology 96German people 67Ghaznavid empire 42Ghazni (Afg) 490giardiasis 534Golden Man (Kaz) 132golf 113Gonur (Tur) 453-4Gonur Depe (Tur) 453Gozli Ata (Tur) 445Great Game, the 50-1, 264, 471Great Horde, the 43, 47, 49, 120Grigorievka (Kyr) 318-19Gumbezkul Valley (Taj) 414Gunt Valley (Taj) 412Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum (U) 244-5Gypjak (Tur) 441

HHaji Yakoub mosque and medressa

(Taj) 384handicrafts 226, 238, 249, 309,

406, 508handshaking 67-70Hazara people 68Hazrat-Hizr Mosque (U) 246

health 530-6heli-skiing 112

Kazakhstan 148Kyrgyzstan 314Uzbekistan 231

hepatitis A 533hepatitis B 533Herat (Afg) 483-6hiking 108, see also trekking

Kazakhstan 180Tajikistan 389, 407Uzbekistan 257

Hissar (Taj) 389Historical Museum (Kyr) 359History & Local Studies Museum

(Kaz) 190history 34-61, see also individual

countries & locationsAchaemenid empire 34-5Battle of Talas 41Bolsheviks 53-4borders 392British empire 50Chinggis (Genghis) Khan 42-5 Ghaznavid empire 42Great Game, the 50-1independence 58-9Islam 40-2Karakhanid empire 42Kushan empire 38-40Russian empire 49-50Russian Revolution 52-3Sassanid empire 40Timurid empire 45-6Zhungarian empire 47-8

History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan 219

History Museum of the Timurids (U) 219

hitching 527-8HIV 533Hoja, Islom 274Hoja Ismail (U) 250holidays 502-4Holy Trinity Cathedral (Kyr) 322homestays 496-7

Kazakhstan 125, 147, 155-6, 179, 181, 188

Kyrgyzstan 297, 344, 349, 354, 355, 356, 364

Tajikistan 395, 398, 405, 407, 408, 411, 413, 414

Uzbekistan 254, 259, 277, 278horse riding 108-9, 318, 364horse treks 330, 339, 342, 412

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EXI N D E X ( H - K ) 557

horses 97dragon horses 40Przewalski’s horses 98, 148,

180, 325hot springs

Afghanistan 484Kyrgyzstan 312, 313, 326-7, 350Tajikistan 409, 411, 414

Iibn-Sina, Abu Ali 379ice houses 453ice skating 436Ichon-Qala (U) 272-3, 272, 7Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 144independence 58-9influenza 533insurance 504

medical 531internet access 504internet resources 22-3

archaeology 34, 77, 84architecture 76environment 99, 100, 102health 530music 83Silk Road 23, 40visas 511

Inylchek Glacier (Kyr) 334Irkeshtam Pass (Kyr) 362-3Isfandiyar Palace (U) 274Ishkashim (Afg) 488Ishkashim (Taj) 409Iskander-Kul (Taj) 396-8Islam 40-2, 71-5Islamic Centre (Kaz) 173Islom-Hoja Medressa (U) 274Ismail Samani Mausoleum (U) 262Ismailov, Hamid 82isriq 63Istaravshan (Taj) 393itineraries 25-33, see also individual

countriesactivities 33, 33community-based tourism 106,

107Silk Road 25, 27, 25, 27Torugart Pass 26, 26World Heritage sites 33, 33

Jjailoos 97, 339, 340, 348, 349Jalalabad (Afg) 489Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 354-5Jalang (Taj) 415

Japanese memorial (Tur) 446Jayma Bazaar (Kyr) 358Jelandy (Taj) 411Jerbent (Tur) 442jet lag 532Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 329-30Jewish history 246Jewish people 67, 262

KKa Faroshi (Afg) 479Kabul (Afg) 476-81, 478

accommodation 480attractions 479-80food 480history 477information 477, 479money 477travel to/from 481travel within 481

Kabul Museum (Afg) 479Kadji-Sai (Kyr) 331-2Kala-i Khum (Taj) 403Kalon Minaret (U) 261Kalon Mosque (U) 261Kalta Minor Minaret (U) 273Kandahar (Afg) 490Kapkytan Cave (Tur) 456Karaganda (Kaz) 183-5Karaganda Ecological Museum (Kaz)

183Karagandy, see KaragandaKara-Jilga (Taj) 415Karakalpak people 67, 276Karakalpakstan (U) 276-81,

269Karakhanid empire 42Karakol (Kyr) 320-5, 321, 326

accommodation 323-4activities 323attractions 322-3entertainment 324food 324history 320information 320, 321money 320shopping 324travel agencies 321-2travel to/from 324travel within 325

Karakol Valley (Kyr) 327-9Karakul (Taj) 416Kara-Kul (Taj) 416Karakum desert 442Karatag Valley (Taj) 389

Kara-Tepe (U) 255Karimov, Islam 207, 208Karkara Valley (Kaz) 147-8Karkara Valley (Kyr) 319-20Karl Marx Peak (Taj) 408KarLag Museum (Kaz) 185Karlyuk Caves (Tur) 456Karzai, Hamid 473Katon-Karagay National Park (Kaz) 188kayaking 110Kazakh language 539-40Kazakh people 62-3, 119-20, 122Kazakhstan 116-202, 118, 146

accommodation 192-3activities 125, 130, 144, 148, 179,

180, 193arts 123-4border crossings 200-1climate 117drinks 126embassies 193-5festivals 195, 196food 125-6history 117-21information 193, 196, 197-8itineraries 30, 117, 30money 196travel agencies 113travel to/from 199-201travel within 202visas 195, 198-9

Kazarman (Kyr) 343-4Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 173Khan Tengri (Kaz) 148Khan Tengri (Kyr) 333Khan, Chinggis (Genghis) 42-5, 119,

122, 156, 206, 212, 243, 246, 254, 258, 261, 293, 425, 451, 457, 470, 482, 486, 487

Khan, Umar 235Khan’s Palace (U) 233-4Khargush (Taj) 410Khast Imom (U) 218-19Khazrati-Imam complex (U) 252Khiva (U) 270-6, 272

accommodation 274-5attractions 272-4drinking 275-6entertainment 276food 275-6history 271shopping 276tourist information 271-2tours 274travel to/from 276

IND

EX558 I N D E X ( K - M )

Khiva Juma Mosque (U) 273Khojand (Taj) 390-2, 391Khorezm (U) 268-76, 269Khorog (Taj) 404-7, 405Khrushchev, Nikita 57, 74, 120, 172kite flying 476Kochkor (Kyr) 335-8, 338Koh-i-Garmo, see Pik LeninKoh-i-Lal ruby mine (Taj) 409Koi-Tezek Pass (Taj) 411Kojumkul (Kyr) 349kok boru 367, see also buzkashiKök Jar (Taj) 416Kokand (U) 232-6, 234Kok-Gumbaz Mosque (U) 252Kokshetau (Kaz) 181-2Kok-Tobe (Kaz) 132Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 146-7Konye Kurgan (Taj) 415Konye-Urgench (Tur) 457-9Korean people 67Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve (Kaz)

179-80Koshkar Ata (Kaz) 170-1Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 345-6Köw Ata Underground Lake (Tur) 443Kubra, Nejameddin 458Kuchi people 68-9Kugitang Nature Reserve (Tur) 456Kuhna Ark (U) 273Kumtor Gold Mine (Kyr) 330kumys 88-9Kunanbaev, Abay 189, 191Kunduz (Afg) 487Kurchatov (Kaz) 192Kushan empire 38-40Kydyra Minaret (Kaz) 154kymys 88-9Kyrgyz language 540-1Kyrgyz people 63-4Kyrgyzstan 290-371, 292

accommodation 364activities 309, 313, 314, 329, 354,

364-5arts 296border crossings 370-1climate 291costs 291, 368customs 365embassies 365-7festivals 367-8

food 298history 291-5information 368, 369itineraries 291travel agencies 114travel to/from 370-1travel within 371visas 366-7, 369

Kyrk Gyz (Forty Girl) Cave (Tur) 456Kyrk Molla (Tur) 459Kyz Kala (Tur) 453kyz-kumay 367Kyzyl-Art Pass (Taj) 416Kyzylkala (Kaz) 171Kyzyl-Oi (Kyr) 349Kyzylorda (Kaz) 159-61

Llaghman 86Lake Aidarkul (U) 256-7Lake Balkhash (Kaz) 149Lake Burabay (Kaz) 180-1Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr) 315-35, 316Lake Sarez (Taj) 409Lake Sary-Chelek (Kyr) 351-2Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 339-40landays 475Langar (Taj) 410Langar (U) 254language 537-43Lebap Regional Museum (Tur) 454-5legal matters 504leishmaniasis 533lesbian travellers 138, 462, 502Letters of Invitation (LOIs) 510-11literature 20-2, 81-2, see also booksluli people 68Lyabi-Hauz (U) 259

MMaghoki-Attar (U) 259Magrib Bolo (Taj) 398malaria 533Malinovka (Kaz) 179Mamun II Minaret (Tur) 459Manas epic 82, 296Manas Village (Kyr) 303maps 504Marco Polo 44Marco Polo sheep 103Margilon (U) 238-9Marguzor Lakes (Taj) 396markets, see bazaarsmarshrutkas 528Mary (Tur) 448-51, 449

Mary Regional Museum (Tur) 449Mashhur Zhusip Mosque (Kaz) 192Massoud, Ahmad Shah 472, 473Mausoleum of Ismail al-Bukhari

(U) 250Mausoleum of Mazlum Khan Slu

(U) 280Mausoleum of Mohammed ibn Zeid

(Tur) 451-2Mausoleum of Parau Bibi (Tur) 443Mausoleum of Rabiga-Sultan Begum

(Kaz) 158Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar (Tur)

452-3mausoleums 78

Abd al Aziz-Baba Mausoleum (Kaz) 155

Aristan-Bab Mausoleum (Kaz) 157Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum (Kaz) 151Babazhi Katun Mausoleum (Kaz)

151Bakhautdin Naqshband

Mausoleum (U) 268Dauitbek Mausoleum (Kaz) 150Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum (U) 244-5Ibragim Ata Mausoleum (Kaz) 155Ismail Samani Mausoleum (U) 262Karakhan Mausoleum (Kaz) 149-50Karashash-Ana Mausoleum (Kaz)

154Mausoleum of Al-Hakim al-Termizi

(U) 255Mausoleum of Bekbulat (Taj) 411Mausoleum of Ismail al-Bukhari

(U) 250Mausoleum of Mazlum Khan Slu

(U) 280Mausoleum of Mohammed ibn

Zeid (Tur) 451-2Mausoleum of Parau Bibi (Tur) 443Mausoleum of Rabiga-Sultan

Begum (Kaz) 158Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar (Tur)

452-3Mausoleums of Two Askhab

(Tur) 453Mirali Bobo Mausoleum (Kaz) 154Nejameddin Kubra Mausoleum

(Tur) 458Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum

(U) 274Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum (Tur) 458Yasaui Mausoleum (Kaz) 158, 6Yunus Khan Mausoleum (U) 219

Mausoleums of Two Askhab (Tur) 453

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EXI N D E X ( M - N ) 559

Maymyr (Kaz) 188Mazar-e Sharif (Afg) 486-7measures 500Medeu (Kaz) 143-4Medeu ice rink 143medical services 532-3medressas 78

Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (U) 259Haji Yakoub mosque and medressa

(Taj) 384Islom-Hoja Medressa (U) 274Mohammed Rakhim Khan

Medressa (U) 273Sahib Mian Hazrat Medressa

(U) 235Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa (U) 243Tilla-Kari (Gold-Covered) Medressa

(U) 243Ulugbek Medressa (U) 243, 259

memorialsAral Sea memorial (U) 281Earthquake Memorial (U) 220Japanese memorial (Tur) 446Panfilov Heroes (Kaz) 131Stronger than Death memorial

(Kaz) 190-1Merv (Tur) 451-3, 452Merzbacher Lake (Kyr) 333Minaret of Jam (Afg) 483minarets 78Misrian (Tur) 445Mizdakhan (U) 280Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa

(U) 273money 19-20, 504-7moneychangers 506monuments

Bayterek monument (Kaz) 176Dawn of Freedom (Kaz) 132-3Monument to Independence

(Kaz) 132Monument to the Dead of the

Totalitarian Regime (Kaz) 173Monument to the Independence of

Turkmenistan 434statue of Ismail Samani (Taj) 385

Mosque of Yusuf Hamadani (Tur) 453mosques 77-8

Azadi mosque (Tur) 434Bibi-Khanym Mosque (U) 244Chinese Mosque (Kyr) 322Friday Mosque, Herat (Afg) 485Haji Yakoub mosque and medressa

(Taj) 384Hazrat-Hizr Mosque (U) 246

Iranian mosque (Tur) 434Islamic Centre (Kaz) 173Jami Mosque, Kokand (U) 235Kalon Mosque (U) 261Khiva Juma Mosque (U) 273Kok-Gumbaz Mosque (U) 252Mashhur Zhusip Mosque (Kaz) 192mosque of Khezrety Omar (Tur)

434Mosque of Yusuf Hamadani (Tur)

453Narbutabey Mosque & Medressa

(U) 234-5No Gombad Mosque (Afg) 487Pul-e Khishti Mosque (Afg) 479Rabat Abdullah Khan Mosque

(Kyr) 359Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

(Tur) 441mountain biking 110mountaineering 110-11Moyie Mubarek Library Museum

(U) 218Moynaq (U) 280-1Muqimi, Mohammedamin 235Murgab (Taj) 412-14Musalla Complex (Afg) 485Museum of Applied Arts (U) 219Museum of Victims of Repression

(Kaz) 179museums & galleries

Abay Museum (Kaz) 189-90Abylay Khan Residence Museum

(Kaz) 182Afrosiab Museum (U) 245Amir Timur Museum (U) 252Bekhzod National Museum (Taj)

384Carpet Museum (Tur) 434Central State Museum (Kaz) 131Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 190Earthquake Museum (Tur) 434Ethnography Museum (Kaz) 185-6Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan 219Frunze House-Museum (Kyr) 303Geology Museum (Kaz) 132Historical Museum (Kyr) 359History & Local Studies Museum

(Kaz) 190History Museum of the People of

Uzbekistan 219History Museum of the Timurids

(U) 219International Museum of Peace &

Solidarity (U) 246

Kabul Museum (Afg) 479Karaganda Ecological Museum

(Kaz) 183KarLag Museum (Kaz) 185Kazakhstan Museum of Arts 131-2Lebap Regional Museum (Tur)

454-5Mary Regional Museum (Tur) 449Moyie Mubarek Library Museum

(U) 218Museum of Applied Arts (U) 219Museum of Kazakh Musical

Instruments 131Museum of Victims of Political

Repression (Kaz) 152Museum of Victims of Repression

(Kaz) 179museum of wood carvings (U) 259National Gallery (Afg) 479National Museum (Tur) 435National Museum of Antiquities of

Tajikistan 382-4National Nuclear Centre museum

(Kaz) 192President’s Museum (Kaz) 173Presidential Culture Centre (Kaz)

173Pugachyov Museum (Kaz) 165Rishton Ceramic Museum (U) 239Savitsky Karakalpakstan Art

Museum (U) 278, 279Shevchenko Museum (Kaz) 171State Art Museum (U) 245State Historical Museum (Kyr) 303State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr) 303Termiz Archaeological Museum

(U) 253-4music 82-3

Nname changes 193Naqshband, Bakhautdin 268Naryn (Kyr) 340-2, 341nasvai 86National Gallery (Afg) 479National Museum (Tur) 435National Museum of Antiquities of

Tajikistan 382-4National Nuclear Centre (Kaz) 192national parks & reserves 98-9

Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 155-6

Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 311-12Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz)

148-9

IND

EX560 I N D E X ( N - R )

national parks & reserves continuedBadai-Tugai Nature Reserve (U)

270Band-e Amir (Afg) 483Burabay National Nature Park

(Kaz) 180Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 144Karakol Valley (Kyr) 327-9Katon-Karagay National Park

(Kaz) 188Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve (Kaz)

179-80Kugitang Nature Reserve (Tur) 456Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere

Reserve (U) 257Sary-Chelek Biosphere Reserve 351Sayram-Ugam National Park

(Kaz) 156Ugam-Chatkal National Park

(U) 230Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay)

Nature Reserve (Kaz) 188Navoi, Alisher 81, 219Navoi Park (U) 219-20Navrus 503-5Nejameddin Kubra Mausoleum (Tur)

458Nevada-Semipalatinsk Movement 189newspapers 500Nissa (Tur) 441Niyazov, Saparmurat 60, 61, 74, 427,

428, 431, 433, 435, 436, 441, 442No Gombad Mosque (Afg) 487Nodira 235Nokhur (Tur) 443nomadic life 160-1nuclear tests 124-5, 189Nukus 276-80, 278Nurata (U) 256-7Nuratau Mountains (U) 257Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve

(U) 257Nuristani people 68

Ooceanariums 173oil 60Okzhetpes (Kaz) 180OMAR Land Mine Museum (Afg)

479-80Oral, see Uralsk

Osh (Kyr) 356-61, 357accommodation 359-60attractions 358-9drinking 360entertainment 360food 360information 356, 358shopping 360travel to/from 360travel within 361visas 358

Osh Riots 295Oskemen, see Ust-KamenogorskOtrar (Kaz) 156-7overgrazing 102Ozero Bolshoe Almatinskoe (Kaz)

144-5Özgön (Kyr) 355-6

PPahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum

(U) 274painting 83-4Palace of Independence (Kaz) 176Palace of Orphans (Tur) 441Palace of Peace & Accord (Kaz) 176Pamir Highway (Taj) 411-16, 11Pamiri houses 401Pamirs, the (Taj) 399-416, 400Panfilov Park (Kaz) 131Parau Bibi (Tur) 443parks & gardens

Babur’s Gardens (Afg) 479Dubovy (Oak) Park (Kyr) 303Dushanabe Botanical Gardens 385Gorky Park (Almaty) 133Navoi Park (U) 219-20Pamir Botanical Gardens (Taj) 404Panfilov Park (Kaz) 131

Pashtun people 66-7Pashtunwali 67Pavlodar (Kaz) 192Payron Lake (Taj) 389Penjikent (Taj) 393-6, 394people 62-70permits 510petroglyphs

Ak-Jilga (Taj) 412Cholpon-Ata 317Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 344Tamgaly (Kaz) 148Terekty (Kaz) 148Zukarnay (U) 256

Petropavl, see PetropavlovskPetropavlovsk (Kaz) 182-3

photography 507Pik Lenin (Kyr) 362Pik Pobedy (Kyr) 333plague, the 46, 534planning 19-24plov 86, 223poaching 102-3poetry 81-2Polkovnichy Island (Kaz) 190pollution 102Polo, Marco 44postal services 507President’s Museum (Kaz) 173Przewalski Memorial & Pristan

Prahevalsk (Kyr) 325-6Przewalski, Nikolai 325-6Przewalski’s horses 98, 148, 180,

325Pugachyov Museum (Kaz) 165Pul-e Khishti Mosque (Afg) 479Purges, the 55

Qqymyz 88-9Qyz Bibi (Tur) 443

Rrabies 534rafting 110

Kyrgyzstan 314tours 305Uzbekistan 231

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (Kaz) 189Rang-Kul (Taj) 414Ratm Fort (Taj) 410Rebirth Island 211Registan, the (U) 243-4, 6registration 507, see also individual

locationsPamirs, the 401

religion 71-5, 123, 210, 296, 379, 429, 474

responsible travel 23-4Respublika Alangy (Kaz) 132-3Rishton (U) 239Rishton Ceramic Museum (U) 239rock climbing 110-11Roshorv (Taj) 408Roshtqala (Taj) 408rugs 81, see also carpetsRussian empire 49-50Russian language 537-9Russian Orthodox churches 133, 190,

446, 455Russian Revolution 52-3

000 Map pages000 Photograph pages

IND

EXI N D E X ( S - T ) 561

Ssafety 20

Afghanistan 469, 480Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 344-5Samani, Ismail 375Samarkand (U) 240-50, 242

accommodation 246-8attractions 243-6festivals 246food 248history 241information 241money 243tours 246travel agencies 243travel to/from 249-50travel within 250

San-Tash (Kyr) 319Sarala-Saz (Kyr) 339, 10Sary Moghul (Kyr) 361-2Sary Tash (Kyr) 361Sary Tash (Taj) 416Sary-Chelek Biosphere Reserve 99,

351Sassanid empire 40Sassyk-Kul (Taj) 412Sauran (Kaz) 159Savitsky Karakalpakstan Art Museum

(U) 278, 279Savnob (Taj) 408Sayram (Kaz) 154Sayram-Ugam National Park (Kaz) 156Semey (Kaz) 189-92, 190Semipalatinsk Polygon (Kaz) 192Semipalatinsk, see SemeyShad, Gowhar 45, 46, 79, 485Shah-i-Zinda (U) 244Shahr-e Gholghola (Afg) 482Shahriyar Ark (Tur) 453Shaimak (Taj) 415Shakhrisabz (U) 251-3, 251Shakhty (Taj) 415Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 171shared taxis 527shashlyk 85, 8Shaybanid dynasty 47Sherkala (Kaz) 171Shevchenko, Taras 171ship cemetery (Kaz) 162Shokh Dara Valley (Taj) 408-9shopping 507-8Shrine of Hazrat Ali (Afg) 486Shrine of Khoja Abu Nasr Parsa (Afg)

487Shymkent (Kaz) 151-4, 152

shyrdaks 309, 339, 508Sibinskie Lakes (Kaz) 188silk

buying 227Tajikistan 388Uzbekistan 238, 266, 276

Silk Road 36-7, 38-9books 21internet resources 23, 40itineraries 25, 27, 25, 27train travel 523

Singing Dune (Kaz) 148skiing 111-12

cross-country 112Kazakhstan 143Kyrgyzstan 313, 329, 354Uzbekistan 230

Slav people 66snow leopards 98Solomon’s Throne (Kyr) 358Soviets in Afghanistan 58, 471-3spas 311-13, 329Spassk (Kaz) 185speed skating 143St Nicholas’ Cathedral (Kaz) 133Stalin 54, 55State Art Museum (U) 245State Historical Museum (Kyr) 303State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr)

303State Philharmonia (Kaz) 138STDs 534Stoddart, Charles 264street names 193Stronger than Death memorial (Kaz)

190-1study 514Sultan Epe (Kaz) 171Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum (Tur)

458Sunkar eagle farm (Kaz) 144Surkhandarya province (U) 254Suusamyr Valley (Kyr) 348-9suzani 81, 250, 256, 267, 276, 388

buying 226swastika-shaped forest (Kyr) 342-3swimming 436

TTagtabazar (Tur) 454Tajik language 541Tajik people 64-5Tajikistan 372-423, 374

accommodation 416activities 389, 397, 407, 416-17

arts 379border crossings 421-2climate 373costs 373, 419economy 377embassies 417-18environmental issues 380festivals 418food 380history 373-7information 418, 419, 420itineraries 373travel agencies 114travel to/from 421-2travel within 422-3visas 418, 420

Talas (Kyr) 349-50Taliban, the 59-60, 472-3

women under 68-70Tamchy (Kyr) 316Tamerlane, see Timur (Tamerlane)Tamga (Kyr) 330-1Tamgaly petroglyphs (Kaz) 148Taraz (Kaz) 149-51, 150Tash-Bashat 342-3Tash Rabat (Kyr) 346Tashkent 212-29, 214-15, 231

accommodation 221-2activities 220-1attractions 218-20drinking 224-5entertainment 225-6food 222-4history 212information 213, 216money 216shopping 226-7travel agencies 217-18travel to/from 227-8travel within 228

Tashkömür (Kyr) 351taxi travel 526-7, 528

tips 229, 528tea 88tea etiquette 91teahouses 89telephone services 508-9telpeks 435Terekty petroglyphs (Kaz) 148Termiz (U) 253-6Termiz Archaeological Museum (U)

253-4theft 500Tian Shan Astronomical Observatory

(Kaz) 144

IND

EX562 I N D E X ( T - W )

time 509Timur (Tamerlane) 35, 43, 45-6, 76,

77, 157, 220, 241, 244, 245, 251, 458, 470

Timur Dara Lake (Taj) 389Timurid empire 45-6tipping 506toilets 509Tolkuchka Bazaar (Tur) 435Tör-Ashuu Pass (Kyr) 348Torkham (Afg) 489-90Torugart Pass 346-8, 336

itineraries 26, 26Tosh-Hovli Palace (U) 274tourist information 509-10tours 524

adventure travel 188archaeological 113

traditions 69-70train travel 528-9

border crossings 521-2classes 522Silk Road 523

travel advice 501travel agencies 524

adventure 113-15, 188Kazakhstan 188

travel permits 198, 286, 464, 493, 510travel to/from Central Asia 515-23travel within Central Asia 523-9travellers cheques 506trekking 104-8, see also hiking

internet resources 104, 108Kazakhstan 145-7, 148Kyrgyzstan 311-13, 323, 327-9,

334, 351-2, 353-4, 361Tajikistan 397, 412tours 304-5, 323Uzbekistan 230warnings 145

tuberculosis (TB) 534Tulip Revolution 294Turabeg Khanym Complex (Tur) 458Turkistan (Kaz) 157-9, 158Turkmen language 541-2Turkmen people 65-6Turkmenabat (Tur) 454-6, 455Turkmenbashi (town; Tur) 446-8, 447Turkmenbashi, see Niyazov,

SaparmuratTurkmenbashi Cableway (Tur) 435-6

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque (Tur) 441

Turkmenistan 424-67, 426accommodation 460-1activities 461arts 429border crossings 466-7climate 425costs 425customs regulations 461embassies 461-2food 430history 425-8holidays 462-3information 463, 464itineraries 31, 425, 31money 463-4registration 464travel agencies 114travel to/from 466-7travel within 467visas 462, 465-6

Turuntai-Kul (Taj) 409Tuz-Kul (Taj) 412Tyoplye Klyuchi (Kyr) 312

UUalikhanov, Shokan 190Ugam-Chatkal National Park (U)

230Ulugbek Medressa (U) 243, 259Ulugbek’s Observatory (U) 245Unesco World Heritage sites, see

World Heritage sitesUralsk (Kaz) 165Urgench (U) 268-9Urgut 250-1Urgut bazaar 250-1, 8Turkmenbashi World of Fairytales

(Tur) 435Ust-Kamenogorsk (Kaz) 185-8,

186Uyghur people 67Uzbek language 542Uzbek people 66Uzbekistan 203-89, 205

accommodation 281activities 230, 231, 257, 259,

281-2arts 210black market 284border crossings 287-8climate 204costs 204embassies 282-3

festivals 283food 211history 206-8information 283-6itineraries 204money 283-5travel agencies 115travel to/from 286-8travel within 288-9visas 286

Vvaccinations 531-2Valley of Balls (Kaz) 171vegetarian travellers 90video systems 500, 507Virgin Lands scheme 57, 120visas 510-13, see also individual

countriesvolunteering 199, 514Vozrozhdenie Ostrov 211Vrang (Taj) 410

WWakhan Corridor (Afg) 488-9Wakhan Valley (Taj) 409-11War on Terror 61water 535waterfalls 330, 353, 389weather 19, 499websites, see internet resourcesweights 500white-water rafting 314women

under the Soviets 57under the Taliban 68

women travellers 513-14women’s health 536work 514World Heritage sites

ancient Merv 451Bamiyan (Afg) 481-3Bukhara (U) 257itineraries 33, 33Khiva’s old city (U) 270Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve (Kaz)

179-80Minaret of Jam (Afg) 483Nissa (Tur) 441Samarkand (U) 240Shakhrisabz (U) 251Solomon’s Throne (Kyr) 358Tamgaly petroglyphs (Kaz) 148Yasaui Mausoleum (Kaz) 158, 6

WWII 55-8

000 Map pages000 Photograph pages

IND

EXI N D E X ( Y - Z ) 563

YYagnob Valley (Taj) 398-9Yamchun Fort (Taj) 410Yamg (Taj) 410Yangykala Canyon (Tur) 445-6Yasaui, Kozha Akhmed 157Yasaui Mausoleum (Kaz) 158, 6Yashil-Kul (Taj) 411Yemts (Taj) 408Yodgorlik (Souvenir) Silk Factory (U)

238Yoged (Taj) 403Younghusband, Francis 51

Yunus Khan Mausoleum (U) 219

yurt campsKyrgyzstan 329Tajikistan 415Uzbekistan 256-7, 270

yurt workshop (Kyr) 330yurts 337yurtstays 498, see also yurt camps

Kazakhstan 147Kyrgyzstan 304, 319, 333, 339,

342, 346, 349Tajikistan 414, 415

ZZahiruddin Babur 47Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay)

Nature Reserve (Kaz) 188Zenkov Cathedral (Kaz) 131Zerafshan Valley (Taj) 398-9Zhalanash (Kaz) 162Zhumbaktas (Kaz) 180Zhungarian empire 47-8Zong (Taj) 410zoos 322Zoroastrianism 454Zukarnay Petroglyphs (U) 256

GREENDEX

accommodation & activities Aga Khan Development Network

(Afg) 488 Aral Tenizi (Kaz) 162 Bamyan Ecotourism Office (Afg)

482 Community Based Tourism (Kyr)

297 Ecotour (Kyr) 304 Ecotourism Information Resource

Centre (Kaz) 130 Ekos (Kaz) 181 Geisev Valley homestays (Taj) 407 Great Game Travel (Afg) 488 Nomadic Travel Kazakhstan

(Kaz) 184NoviNomad (Kyr)

304

Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve community-based tourism project (U) 257

Mountain Unity (Afg) 488 Murgab Ecotourism Association

(META; Taj) 413

Pamirs Ecotourism Association Information Centre (Taj) 404

Regional Ecotourism Centre (Kaz) 156

Wild Nature (Kaz) 156

WWOOF (Kaz) 199 Zerafshan Tourism

Development Association (Taj) 395

attractions Band-e Amir (Afg) 483 Karaganda Ecological Museum

(Kaz) 183 Ugam-Chatkal National Park

(U) 230

shopping & tours De Pamiri (Taj) 406 Embroidery Group (U) 249 Human House (U) 226 Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop (U)

276 Khiva Suzani Centre (U) 276 Rakhimov Ceramics Studio (U) 226 Unesco Carpet Weaving Shop

(U) 266 Yak House (Taj) 41 3

Central Asia leads the way in community-based tourism projects. Once a way for remote herders and villages to earn vital income from the occasional tourist, it’s revolutionised budget travel in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, with projects spilling over into Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and even Afghanistan. A sprinkling of protected areas, part-funded from tourism revenue and several craft centres where tourist dollars have revived handicraft traditions prove you can have a lot of fun and do a lot of good in Central Asia. The following homestay organisations, ecotourism programs, craft workshops and national parks all do good work and rank among Central Asia’s highlights.

564

POSITIONAL ONLY

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983

© Lonely Planet 2010

© photographers as indicated 2010

Cover photograph: Shrine of Hazrat Ali, Mazar-e Sharif, Afghanistan, Stephane Victor/Lonely Planet Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: lonelyplanetimages.com.

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LookoutMountain, Volcano

National ParkPass, Canyon

Spot HeightRiver Flow

Geographic

InformationBank, ATM

Embassy/ConsulateHospital, Medical

InformationInternet Facilities

Police StationPost Office, GPO

TelephoneToilets

Point of Interest

TransportAirport, AirfieldBorder Crossing

Bus StationGeneral Transport

Taxi Rank

SleepingSleepingCamping

ShoppingShopping

EntertainmentEntertainment

DrinkingDrinking

Café

EatingEating

BeachChristian

IslamicJewish

MonumentMuseum, Gallery

PoolRuin

Skiing

Zoo, Bird SanctuaryTrail Head

Sights/ActivitiesSYMBOLS

Parking Area

CAPITAL (NATIONAL)Large City

Small City

CAPITAL (STATE)Medium CityTown, Village

POPULATION

Building

Land

Market

Area of Interest

Campus

Cemetery, Other

ParkSportsUrban

Mall

Cemetery, Christian

Beach, Desert

AREA FEATURES

DisputedAncient Wall

Cliff

Regional, SuburbState, Provincial

InternationalBOUNDARIES

Glacier WaterCanalRiver, Creek

HYDROGRAPHY

Bus RouteMetroFerry Rail

TRANSPORT

Walking Tour DetourWalking Tour

Walking Trail

Tunnel

LaneTertiary

Walking PathTrack

FreewayPrimary

Mall/Steps

Pedestrian OverpassSecondary

Unsealed RoadOne-Way Street

ROUTESMAP LEGEND

QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIREC TORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRAC TICAL INFORMATION

5TH EDITIONPublished Oct 2010First Published June 1996

USA $32.99UK £19.99

BUSINESS HOURSBanks 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat

Businesses & shops 9am-6pm daily

Restaurants lunch & dinner

Exceptions are noted in specific listings.

TELEPHONEAfghanistan country code %93

Kazakhstan country code %7

Kyrgyzstan country code %996

Tajikistan country code %992

Turkmenistan country code %993

Uzbekistan country code %998

Ambulance* %03

Police* %02

(*these numbers do not include Afghanistan; see p477)

KEY PHRASES IN RUSSIANHello. zdrastvuyteGoodbye. da svidaniyaThanks. spasibaDo you speak English? vy gavarite pa angliyski?

CONVERSIONS 1in = 2.54cm 1cm = 0.39in 1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd1ft = 0.3m1km = 0.62 miles1 mile = 1.6km

1kg = 2.2lb1lb = 0.45kg1g = 0.04oz1oz = 28g

1 imperial gallon = 4.55L1L = 0.26 US gallons1 US gallon = 3.8L1L = 0.22 imperial gallons

HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget order.For details of map symbols, see the Map Legend on the last page of this book.

% telephoneh opening hoursn nonsmoking rooms/

areas availablea air-con availablei internet availables swimming pool p parking availableE English menuv good vegetarian

food selection W wi-fi

apt apartmentsd double roomsdm dorm beds, home stay, yurtstay f family roomslux luxury roomhalf-lux semi-luxury roomq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms

EXCHANGE RATES Prices in this guide are given in the currency they are nor-mally quoted in – usually Afghanis (Afg), Kazakh tenge (T), Uzbek som (S), Kyrgyz som (som), Tajik somani (TJS), Turkmen new manat (M), or US dollars or euros.For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. US$1 UK£1 €1 AS$

Afghanistan 45.5 65.7 54 37

Kazakhstan 147 212.5 176 121

Kyrgyzstan 46 66.5 55 38

Tajikistan 4.4 6.3 5.2 3.6

Turkmenistan 2.8 4.1 3.4 2.3

Uzbekistan* 1600 2300 1900 1300

(*official rates)

PRICE RANGES Sleeping

Budget < US$25

Midrange US$25-70

Top end > US$70

Accommodation ranges are higher in major cities like Almaty and Tashkent.

LONELY PLANET INDEX 1L bottle water US$0.30 (Uzbekistan) to US$0.80 (Afghanistan)

Bottled beer US$0.50 (Turkmenistan) to US$2 (Afghanistan)

Shashlyk US$0.30 (Uzbekistan) to US$2 (Kazakhstan)

1L petrol US$0.25 (Turkmenistan) to US$1 (Tajikistan)

lonelyplanet.comAlmost too much information

read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✆ buy books ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ✍ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ✏ get DVDs ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✈ book flights ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews � book a bed $ spare some change � get challenged ➷ take the plunge � download guides

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