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IntroductionbyEdPilkington

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Contents

Countingthedead

Introduction

TheattackonAmerica

Firstreactions

Americastrikesback

Newlawsfora‘new’danger

Pickingthroughthewreckage

Thefirstanniversary

Reorganisingthegovernment

Rightsandwrongs

The‘mosque’controversy

Deathofaterrorist

Tenyearson

9/11innumbers

Countingthedead

Introduction

EdPilkington

Ourlivesarepunctuatedbyasuccessionofseismiceventsthatpermanentlyalterourbearingsandshiftthewaywerelatetoothers.Mostofthesearepersonalorfamilial–thedeathofaparent,say,orthearrivalofababy–andbytheiruniversalitytheylendadegreeofsharedexperiencetoanotherwisedividedandviolentworld.Rarelydopoliticalorcurrentaffairscarrysufficientglobalreach,penetratedeepenoughintosoulsacrossthevastdiversityoftheglobe,toattainthestatusofthegenuinelytransformativeevent.Inthemodernchocolateboxthatis24-hourTVnews,storiesarequicklyconsumedandthenasquicklyforgotten.

WhathappenedonthatbeautifulsunnydayinSeptember2001wasnotlikethat.Asthefirstplaneandthenthesecondmadetheirwayacrossthecloudlessskylikedeterminedmosquitoes,piercingtheskinoftheTwinTowers,theydidn’tjustigniteafireballthatcausedtheskyscraperstocomecrashingdown.Theydidn’tjustchangetheworld–aclichéwidelydisseminatedatthetime.Theychangedourbrains,openingupsynapticpathsthatuntilthatmomenthadnotexisted.Theinitialbewildermentthatstruckusaswewatchedthetragedyunfoldontelevision–thiscannotbe!-gavewaytoaharshrealisationthatitcouldbe,andwas,andwouldbe.

Adecadelaterthosesynapticpathsremainrudelyopen,asthegreatoutpouringofcommentandrecollectionthathasaccompaniedthe10thanniversaryof9/11hasshown.Wecarryaroundwithusstillthememoriesofthatextraordinaryandterribleday–wherewereyouwhenthesouthtowercollapsed?-andcontinuetolivewiththemanyenormousconsequencesthatflowedfromit.

TheGuardian’sreportsfromthatcatastrophicday,someofwhicharereproducedinthisbook,stillhavethepowertoshockacrossthegulfofadecade.MichaelEllison,EdVulliamyandJaneMartinson’saccountof9/11

decade.MichaelEllison,EdVulliamyandJaneMartinson’saccountof9/11itselfconveyswhathappenedwitharawnessandurgencythatcomesfromdirectwitness.Thearticlehaspoignancyformepersonally,becauseIrememberthecostatwhichitwasgathered.IwastheGuardian’sinternationaleditoron9/11andIwatchedfrom3,000milesawayinthepaper’sofficesinLondonwithgrowingadmirationandconcernasthosethreereporterswenttoexceptionallengthstogetthisfirstaccountofhistoryright.JaneMartinsonwasjustfivedaysawayfromgivingbirth,yetspenthoursinManhattanhospitalstalkingtosurvivors.MikeEllisonrushedtotheWorldTradeCenterafterthefirstplanestruck,duckinghiswaypastpolicebarrierstogetrightuptothetowers.Hehadtolivewiththetraumaofhavingseenpeoplejumpfromthebuildings’upperstoreys.Hewasfartoodignifiedareportertorevealthatwhenhedescribedbystanderscaughtinthemayhem,their“mouthsdrywithterroranddust”,hemusthavebeenspeakingalsoofhimself.

Someofourinstantreportingwasinevitablywideofthemark,giventhebillowinghysteriaoftheday,suchasthereferencetoapossibledeathtollashighas20,000(myerror,Ifear).Butevenmorestrikingwashowaccurateitwas,howquickly.

Speculationimmediatelyfocusedon...OsamabinLaden,”wroteJulianBorgerandDuncanCampbell,justhoursaftertheTwinTowersfell.WehadtowaitthreefullyearsforBinLadenhimself,on29October2004,toputhisnametotheawfuldeed,butthemainsuspectwasinstantlynailed.

Orconsiderthereferenceinoureditorial,againwrittenwhilethepallofthecollapsedtowersstillhungoverManhattan,totheprospectofAmericatakingrevengeagainstSaddamHussein’sIraq.ThesameeditorialurgedGeorgeBushtoavoid“over-reaction,especiallyofthemilitaryvariety...Takeadeepbreath,America.Keepcool.Andkeepcontrol.”

Wouldthatthatadvicehadbeenheeded.

Howrapidlytheseedsofvengeanceanddestructionwereplanted!Andhowimpenetrableisthethicketofhatredandparanoiathathasgrownfromthem.ConsiderStuartMillar’spiece,writtenjusttwodaysaftertheattacks,onthespateofanti-MuslimattacksthatsweptacrossAmerica–agrimforebodingofthebattlesovertheso-called“GroundZeromosque”(itwasneitheramosque

thebattlesovertheso-called“GroundZeromosque”(itwasneitheramosquenoratGroundZero,butwhocared?)andtheKoranbookburningsthatweretocome.

Withinamonthoftheattacks,thefirstairstrikesagainstAfghanistanwerelaunched;withinsixweeksBushhadsignedthePatriotAct;withinfourmonthsGuantanamowasreceivingitsfirstinmatesintheirluridorangejumpsuits.Water-boarding,ghostplanes,secretprisons(locatedinSyriaandEgypt,thosebastionsofAmerican-style“freedom”ofallplaces!),theplansforaninvasionofIraq,allofthesemonumentalandmonumentallydamaginginnovationswereallputinplacewithintheblinkingofaneyelid.

Asaresult,wehavespentthisentiredecadetrappedinabrutalcycleofviolenceandcounter-violence.Acyclesopowerfulthatnoleaderhasappearedtobestrongenoughtobreakit.“Missionaccomplished”,GeorgeBushdeclaredoftheIraqinvasionon1May2003.BarackObamacametopowerinJanuary2009vowingondayonetocloseGuantanamo,withsimilarlylaughableresults.

NewYorkersmayhavegreetedthenewsofBinLaden’sdeathon2Maywithchantsof“USA!USA!”,asPaulHarrisobserved,butthetriumphalismthatfloodedthestreetsoflowerManhattanthatnightwasmisplaced.Americahasnotwonitsill-named“waronterror”.Norwillit,untilitcanfindawaytocutthroughthethicketthatitplantedsohastilyinthedaysafterthetragedy.Andleavethedecadeof9/11behind.

TheattackonAmerica

On11September2001twohijackedairlinerssmashintotheWorldTradeCenterinNewYork.AthirdhitsthePentagon,andafourthcrashesinPennsylvania,apparentlyoutofcontrol.Theworldwatchesasthetwintowerscollapse,killingthousands.PresidentGeorgeBushpromisesretaliation:“FreedomitselfwasattackedthismorningandIassureyoufreedomwillbedefended.”IntheUK,TonyBlairpromisestostand“shouldertoshoulder”withAmerica.

AlexFuchs/AFP

BushonwarfootingashijackjetoutrageleavesthousandsdeadPresidentforcedoutofWashingtonasterroristsplungepassengerplanesintoWorldTradeCenterandPentagon

JulianBorgerandDuncanCampbell,12September2001

PresidentGeorgeBushwaslastnightstrugglingtoexertsomecontrolovera

shell-shockedUnitedStatesfromaspecialcommandcenterinNebraskaafterthecountrysustaineditsworstattacksincePearlHarbour.

ThreehijackedpassengerairlinersplungedintofamousAmericanlandmarks,destroyingthetwintowersofNewYork’sWorldTradeCenter,seriouslydamagingthePentagon,inWashington,andkillingthousandsofpeople.LastnightastateofemergencywasdeclaredinWashington.

RescueworkersinNewYorkandWashingtonwerestilldesperatelysearchingamongtherubbleforsurvivorsandpullingoutbodies.Therewasspeculationthatthedeathtollcouldrunashighas20,000inwhatwaswithoutdoubttheworstterroristassaulteverinflictedontheUS.

TenthousandpeoplenormallygotoworkineachtoweroftheWorldTradeCentereveryday,withanother5,000visitingthesite.ThePentagonofficeswhichtookthebruntoftheimpactwerefilledwithseniordefencedepartmentofficials.

Afourthhijackedpassengerjet,possiblyheadingforthepresident’sCampDavidretreatinMaryland,crashedinPennsylvania,80milessouthofPittsburgh.

PresidentBushlandedatthehomeofStrategicAirCommand,atOffuttairforcebaseinNebraska,asUSforcesaroundtheworldwereputonalert.ThepresidentwasthenflowntoanundisclosedlocationinNebraskaforanemergencynationalsecuritymeeting,inlinewithcontingencyplansfortimesofwar.Earlier,hepromisedthattheUSwould“huntdownandpunishthoseresponsibleforthesecowardlyattacks”.

forthesecowardlyattacks”.

“Theresolveofourgreatnationisbeingtested,”MrBushsaid.“Butmakenomistake,wewillshowtheworldthatwewillpassthistest.”

Congresswasalsoevacuatedtoanundisclosedlocation.

“I’vebeeninregularcontactwiththevicepresident,secretaryofdefence,thenationalsecurityteamandmycabinet.WehavetakenallappropriatesecurityprecautionstoprotecttheAmericanpeople,“MrBushsaid.“Ourmilitaryathomeandaroundtheworldisonhigh-alertstatusandwehavetakenthenecessarysecurityprecautionstocontinuethefunctionsofthegovernment.”

AircraftcarriersandbattleshipswerehastilydeployedofftheeastcoastofthecountryandF-16fighterjetscircledabovetheWhiteHouseassmokebillowedfromthePentagon,thelargestbuildingintheworld,anddriftedacrossthePotomacriver.MilitaryplanesalsopatrolledtheairaboveNewYork.

Theyweretheonlyplanesintheskies.ForthefirsttimeinUSaviationhistory,allcommercialflightsweregrounded.

TheUSvicepresidentDickCheneywasreportedtobeinwarroominthebasementoftheWhiteHousefromwherehewascoordinatingtheadministration’sresponsetotheterroristattacks.

SpeculationimmediatelyfocusedonacoordinatedattackfromaMiddleEasternterrororganisation,andinparticular,OsamabinLaden,whoissuspectedofpursuingabloodycampaignagainsttheUSinrecentyears.

Thecoordinatedattackwasclearlymeticulouslyplannedandapparentlyinvolvedtrainedpilotsabletotakeoverthecontrolsofpassengerjetsandreadytogivetheirownlivesandsacrificescoresofothers.

AllfourflightsthatwerehijackedwereatthestartofjourneystoCalifornia,whichmeanttheywerefullyloadedwithfuel.Securityexpertsbelievethatthismayhavebeenpartoftheplanofattackasthefuelwouldguaranteeamuchlargerandmoreextensiveexplosionthanwouldhaveotherwisehappened.

TheUnitedStatesisunlikelyevertobethesameagaininthewakeofthisonslaught.Thecountrywashit,withgreatdeliberation,attheverycoreofits

onslaught.Thecountrywashit,withgreatdeliberation,attheverycoreofitseconomicandmilitarypower,presumablyamessagetoAmericansthattheywillneverbeabletoconsiderthemselvessafe.

AsthesmokewasrisingfromNewYorkandWashington,recriminationshadalreadybegunoverthenation’santi-terroristdefences,andwhatimplicationstheattackwouldhavefortheBushadministration’sflagshipproject,theNationalMissileDefencesystem,designedtoshootdownincomingballisticmissilesfromroguestatesandterrorgroups.Itisunlikelysuchasystemwouldhavebeenofmuchuseagainstabandofsuicidalhijackers.

Thefirstimpactcameat8.58amwhenanUnitedAirlinesjet,aBoeing767carrying56passengersboundfromBostontoLosAngeles,flewintotheWorldTradeCenter’snorthtower,punchingagapingholeandsettingoffafirestormwhichsoonconsumedthetopthirdofthebuilding.

Sixteenminuteslater,asbystandersandtelevisioncameraswerefixedontheblazingtower,asecondplane,anAmericanAirlinesflightalsoheadingtoLosAngelesfromBoston,plungedintothesecondtower,sendingflamesblastingoutoftheotherside.

Soonafterwardsbothtowers,wherethousandsofbusinessstaffandcityemployeesworked,collapsed,permanentlychangingtheNewYorkcityskyline.WhileNewYorkdescendedintochaos,WashingtonwashitatthesymboliccenterofUSmilitarypower.

AmericanAirlinesflight77,aBoeing757carrying58passengers,flewinlowovertheVirginiasuburbofArlingtonandplungedintothesouth-westfaceofthePentagon,triggeringthecollapseofasectionofthebuilding.

“TherewasahugescreamingnoiseandIgotoutofthecarastheplanecameover,”saidAfeworkHagos,acomputerprogrammerwhowasonhiswaytowork.“Itwastiltingitswingsupanddownlikeitwastryingtobalance.Ithitsomelamppostsonthewayin.”

InPennsylvania,UnitedAirlinesFlight93,aBoeing757enroutefromNewark,NewJerseytoSanFrancisco,crashedabout80milessouthofPittsburgh.Itsflight-path–somereportssaiditwasheadingtothepresident’sretreatatCamp

David,Maryland–triggeredfreshalertsinthecapital,beforetheplanewentdown.

Emergencyserviceswerereportedtohavereceivedacallfromoneoftheplane’spassengerswhohadlockedhimselfinthetoilet,andwhosaidtheplanehadbeenhijacked.

TheUSplaceditsmilitaryforcesandfacilitiesintheGulfregionandEuropeonthehighestlevelofalert,called“Delta”,thecodeforanimminentthreat.“WearenowonDelta,thewholeworldisonDelta,”aUSofficialsaid.

TheUSnavysentaircraftcarrierstotheNewYorkareaandplacedbattleshipsalongtheeastcoastinpreparationforotherpossibleattacks.

“Thisisanactofwar,there’snodoubtaboutit,”saidJamesKallstrom,aformerdeputydirectoroftheFBI.

TheborderstoMexicoandCanadawereclosedandtheUScoastguardhaltedvesselsapproachingthecoasttocarryoutsearchesasastateofsiegesettledoverthecountry.

Freewaysnearairportswereclosedandmilitaryaircraftflewovermajorcities,addingtothesenseofacountryatwar.Prayersessionswerecalledinchurchesthroughoutthecountry.

PlanesboundfortheUnitedStateswererecalledinmidflight.Britain,IsraelandBelgiumstoppedallcivilianairtrafficovertheircapitals.

TonyBlaircalledanemergencysessionofthegovernment’sspecialsecuritycommittee,Cobra.AfterthemeetinghesaidthattheterribleeventsshouldnotbeseenasabattlebetweentheUnitedStatesofAmericaandterrorism,“butbetweenthefreeanddemocraticworldandterrorism.WethereforehereinBritainstandshouldertoshoulderwithourAmericanfriendsinthishouroftragedy,andwelikethemwillnotrestuntilthisevilisdrivenfromourworld.”

IntheWestBank,thousandsofPalestinianscelebrated,chanting“Godisgreat”,evenastheirleader,YasserArafat,saidhewashorrified.

‘Wegotdowntotheoutsideanditwaslikeanapocalypse’Officeworkerstellhowtheyscrambledfortheirlivesascolleaguesandfriendsperished

MichaelEllison,EdVulliamyandJaneMartinson,12September2001

GeoffdeLessepswasonthetelephoneat8.45am,talkingtohiswifefromhisofficeonthe80thfloorofthenortherntoweroftheWorldTradeCenterinlowerManhattan.“Iwasmeanttobegoingonabusinesstriptomorrowandshehadthisstrangefeelingaboutairplanes,IsweartoGod,”saidthe37-year-oldchiefexecutiveofficer.

Thenthefirstofthekamikazeplaneshitthebuildingafewfloorsabove,cuttingacartoon-likeoutlineintothe1,362fttallbuilding,oncethetallestintheworld.ThemostspectacularterroristattackontheUnitedStateshadbegun.

Twentyminuteslateranotherplanehitthecomplex’ssecondtower.Soonpeoplewerehangingonfortheirlives–andfalling–1,000ftabovethegroundunderblueskiesandapalehalf-moon.

Forty-fiveminuteslaterpeoplewerestillclingingontowindows,clearlyvisiblefromthestreetbelow,stillagainsttherupturedsymbolofUSpowerandinfluence,debrisflutteringliketicker-tapeandstrickenbirds,catchingthesunlightasittwistedtotheground.Finally,theunluckiestofthe40,000whoworkeachdayinthetowerslosttheirgripsorjumpedfromthesmokeandflames.

Firstthenortherntowercamedown,justasawomanwastalkingaboutherfearsforherbrotherwhoworkedinthebuilding.Peoplesprintednorth,chasedbythegrey-blacksmokeandrubble,mouthsdrywithterroranddust.

Between40,000and50,000peopleworkeachdayinthetwintowersandtherewerereportedtobe20,000peopleinsidewhentheplaneshit.Atmorningrush

werereportedtobe20,000peopleinsidewhentheplaneshit.Atmorningrushhour,thefamoustwintowers–tall,clean,elegantandfamiliarsteelhallmarksofthecity’sskyline–hadstoodattheepicenterofthenewglobaleconomy.Anhourlatertheyhadvanished,buryingandcrushinghugecrowdsbelowandbringingdownwiththemthousandsofpanic-strickenpeople,strandedonstairsorintheiroffices.

“I’mfuckingmovingfromthiscity,”onemanshoutedasheran.Ahomelesswoman,shufflingalongWestBroadway,muttered:“They’redoingthisforwhat?Tosavetheworldfromwhat?”Nowbothwereablaze,columnsofsmokebillowingintotheblue.

Schoolchildrenstoodinthestreets;someofthoseworkingclosebyranfromthescene.Mostjuststared,inthemiddleofthebroadboulevards,stung.

Butasthecrowdsstoodparalysed,oneofthetowersthendidtheunthinkable:itsuddenlydisappearedintoacloudofitsownmaking,and,inslowmotion,collapsedtothegroundwithadeadly,horriblethud–puncturedbyscreamsonthestreets:“Holyshit–it’sgone!”Intheurbanmazeofnarrowstreetscutbetweenthecliff-likeskyscrapersbelow,therewasmayhem.

Firstastampede;flyingglasscuttingintofleshandrippedtheclothesofthosewhofled–andnosignwhatsoeveroftheauthorities,onlyapoliceofficerrunningaboutlikeaheadlesschicken(inthewrongdirection)shouting:“Getouttahere!”

“Anotherexplosion!Anotherexplosion!”shoutedamanclutchingabriefcasewithbloodstreamingdownhisface,butapparentlywithnoideathatbehindhimthesecondtallestbuildinginAmericawasfallingintothedustofitsownstone.

Yardsfromthepanic,avastconcretegirdercrashedwithamightysoundnotunlikeabombintoChurchStreetnearagroupofchildren,noneofthelittleonesstoppingtobreaktheirscreamsortowonderwhoorhowmanywerecrushedbeneathitsruthlessweight.Itwouldhavebeenimpossibletoseeanyway,suchwasthetidalwaveofsmokethatengulfedthestreamofterrifiedhumanityasitrannorth,innodirectionbutawayfromthetoweringmonstersbehind.

“Iworkopposite,intheWoolworthbuilding,”saidMalcolmBloom,anattorney,cakedindustandstaggeringupChurchStreettocallhiswife,“andI

attorney,cakedindustandstaggeringupChurchStreettocallhiswife,“andIwasjustsayingtomycolleague:‘Whatagreatmorning.’Thentheplanecameby,rightinfrontofmyface,andintothetradecenter.NextthingIsaw,therewerepeopleeitherjumpingoutofthewindow,orelseblownoutintomidair–Idon’tknow.Justflyingpeoplecomingoutofabuildingonfire.”

Aspoliceofficersfannedouttotheclearthestreets,awomanwithachildcarrierhurledherselfatthem,shouting:“Mybabyisthere!Mybaby’sinthere!”

Theneveryonesettleddowntolookbackattheairbornegrimepluggingthecanyonsbetweenthebuildings.NewYorkpoliceofficerswhothoughttheyhadseenitallstoodforawhileandlookedsouth,handsrubbingtheirfaces.Otherpeople,manyofthemintears,wanderedaroundaimlessly;morestoodgape-jawedandrigid;couples,theirshouldershunchedandanguishmarkingtheirfeatures,driftedwordlesslyfromthescene.

Whentheothertowercamedown,itdidsoalmostquietlyuntilhittingtheground.Thereiterupted,andblindpanicwasback.“Comeon,let’sgo,runonthestreet,”thecopsyelled.“Onthestreetandrun.There’ssomethingelse.”NowalldowntownManhattanwassweptbeneathathickblizzardofdustandapallofsmoke;thesoundofscreamsandweepingechoedoffthewalls;buildingsaroundthetowerswereeithercrushedbeneaththemorelseleftstrippedtotheirironskeletons.Thescenewasanurbanundergrowthmadeofthewreckedintestinesofsupposedlyinvinciblebuildings:irongirders,jaggedconcrete,steelstrips.

Fireescapesweregnarledandtwisted;fromoneofthem,awomanscreamedinpainandconfusion;afiremanclambereduptoreachher.Intheminutesthatfollowed,therewerefurtherthudsandexplosions,andastampedeassurvivorsmadetheirlastleapforlifeandghoulishonlookersrealisedwhatwasreallyhappening.

Onewomanwastrappedbyherownskirt.Anotherstruggledtomove,herleggashed,untilshewashelpedintoanambulance.Fireenginesandfleetsofotherambulancesscreamedandscreechedpast,divingintotheinferno.

Frombehindamaskoftears,onedistraughtsecretarysaid:“Thereweresomanyrunningdownthestairs;runningovereachotherandscreamingand

manyrunningdownthestairs;runningovereachotherandscreamingandpushingandtryingtogetout.Andthatwasbeforethetowercamedown.ThatwasbeforeIlearnedthatmytradersandfriendswerestillupthere,onthe92ndstorey,andIdon’treckonI’lleverseethemagain.”

Throughthisdeathscape,firemenandparamedicsnowworkedwithcrazedzeal–attachingoxygenmasksanddripstotheflagging,pale,oftenapparentlylifelessremainsofhumanityluckyenoughtobefreeofthenightmarestillhiddenwithinthethicketoffire.

Thefullrescueoperationwasslowtoarrive,butafranticandbloodybusinesswhenitdid.Firefighters,policeofficersandeventuallytheNationalGuardwerescavengingundertherubbleforthepanting,blood-splatteredinjuredandthelifeless,rubberylimbsofthedead.Oneman,barelyalive,washumpedintothebackofanambulancewithhisfoothangingloosebyacoupleoftendons.

Onefirefightersaidhehad“thrownhimselfinthedirectionofavoice,whenabeamcamedown,andcutmeoff.Itried.Itried.”

“IwasgoingtoclassinLowerManhattancollege,andjustfinishedat8.15,”saidDanaWest,aged15.“Iwasjustwalkingdownthestreetwhensomeoneshouted:‘Thebuildingisgoingtocollapse!It’sgoingtocomedown!’SoIhadtorun.ThenIheardanexplosionabovemyhead,andthatwasit–itwascomingdown–andIhadtorunintheotherdirection,backthewayIcame.AsIran,Isawpeoplecoveredwithblood,Isawpeoplefall.”

JeffreyChin,whoworksatNo4,alow-risebuilding,hadseenbodiesfallingfromthetowerswhenheleftwork.Onesecond-yearlawstudentattendingajobinterview,YeldaBasar,wasrunningupSeventhAvenuewithoutanyshoesafterseeingthetowerscollapsefromjusttwoblocksaway.“Peoplejuststartedscreaming,”shesaid,“andrunningaway.”

Theplane’shijackershadachievedwherethebombersof1993failed:whentheaircleared,whereoncethetwintowersoftheWorldTradeCenterhadstoodsince1970,therewasavoidintheManhattanskyline.

“It’salittlebitofabullet,”saidMrdeLesseps,theCEOfromthe80thfloor,amazinglycalmasherelivedthemoststartlingmomentofhislife,cakedin

amazinglycalmasherelivedthemoststartlingmomentofhislife,cakedinmasonrydust,hisbluesleevesrolledup.

“SuddenlyinmyofficeIheardagreatwhooshing,abigsoundofairbeingsucked.Debriswascomingthroughandthebuildingshookandthenswayedheavily.Wewentoutbuttheelevatorswereoutandtherewasthicksmokeoneverystaircase.Wewentdownthreefloorsbelowwherethere’saTVstudioandthentherewasanotherexplosion.Howcanthishappen?Ofcoursewedidn’tknowwhatitwas,howcanyoumeasuresomethingthatsize?

“IntheTVstudiobelowwewerewatchingfootageofourownbuildingandthebigholeinitsside.Yeah,itwasbizarre.Iwasfairlycalm.Youradrenalinkicksin.Ittookusoneandahalfhourstowalkdown,sure,that’s80floors.

“Iwastryingtocalmawomandownandtellhertheworstwasoverwhenahugepieceofdebrisfellthroughtheceiling.Therewasaviolenteruptionandthebuildingwasrumbling.Thatwasanothertestofwills.Thenallthelightswentoutandthebuildingwasblackedout.Wejustcouldn’tseeathingandallthetimetherewaswatercominglikeafloodbehindus,andsmokeandfires.

“Wegotdowntotheoutsideanditwasanapocalypse.Ican’timaginewhatanatomicbombislikebutmaybethisit.Wethoughtweweredonethenbutwehadtoworkourwaythroughpilesofdebrisandallthetreeswerestrippedinafourblockradius.NowIneedtoseeifIcanfindsomeofmypeople.I’veonlygotfourofthemsofar.Thisisanamazing,traumaticdayforourcountry.”

Hiscolleague,33-year-oldJeffBorenstein,said:“Therewerefiremengoingupaswewerecomingdown.Theyweregoinguptoheaven,effectively.Westayedcalmbecausetheotheroptionwouldn’thavedoneusanygood.Thisisafrickingmovie.I’llbehappywhenItalktomywife,letherknowI’mbreathingbecausealotofpeoplediedtoday,alotofpeople.”Bird-droppingslandedonhisshoulderashespoke.“Hey,birdshit.Goodluck,right?”Aroundthem,America’sbiggestcitywasparalysed.LowerManhattan,thepartoftheislandfirstsettledbytheDutch,wasclosedcompletely.

Onewoman,whohadbeenworkingintheWorldFinancialCenter,saidshehadleftherbuildingafterithadstartedtoshakeandsmokehadstartedtopourinthroughtheairvents.CallingherselfEvelyn,shesaid:“Iamveryconcerned

abouttherescueworkers.Theywereatthebottomofthetowerusinghoseswhenonesideofitcollapsed.”

Thecity’ssubwaysystemwasclosed,aswerehighwaysleadingtoitandrailandbusservicesweresuspended.AllgovernmentofficesandtheUnitedNationsbuildingwereevacuated.Peoplegatheredonstreetcornersandleanedintoparkedcarstohearradioreportsontheattacks.

Peopleweretryingdesperatelytogetthroughoncellphonesthatwerenolongerfunctioningtotellfriendsandfamilythattheyweresafe.Internationalconnectionswereimpossiblealsoandlonglinesformedatpayphones.

Eventhesmallestsoundnowstartledthem,andcertainlythenoiseofhelicoptersandmilitaryplanesoverhead,onadaywhenthebignewswassupposedtobetheDemocraticandRepublicanprimariestoselectcandidatestorunforthemayor’soffice.Eventhesmallestunrelatedincidentcreatedconflict.Amanwholefthisbriefcaseinthestreetwasaccostedbyacop.“Whatyoudoing?Hey,justkeepwalking.”

Atajunctionwherethetrafficlightshadstuckonredamaninaflakjacketandcombattrouserstookituponhimselftodirectthesparsetraffic.AtStVincent’shospitalonSeventhAvenue,medicalstaffhadsetupchairsandequipmentinthestreet.

AmbulanceswerecomingfromasfarawayasColumbusPresbyterianinupperManhattanandthestreetswerefullofemergencyvehicles,includingthosefromthebombsquad.DrScottRussinof,anorthopaedicsurgeonatthehospital,hadstayedonafterworkingallnight.HehadalreadytreatedseveralbrokenbonesfromthefirstfewcasualtieswhoarrivedfromtheWorldTradeCenter.“Everybody’srushedtothehospitalheretoseewhattheycando.Thewholehospitalstaffisonalert.”Atthesametime,hundredsofNewYorkersrushedtogivebloodoroffertohelpincludingMichaelCarolus,anx-raytechnician.

MarkAckermann,chiefcorporateofficeratStVincentCatholichospitalinGreenwichVillage,said:“Allofusherehaveexperiencedatraumathat’sunparalleled.”Hedescribedtheatmosphereinthehospital,oneoftwomajortraumacentersindowntownManhattan,asoneof“controlledprofessionalismandahugesenseofshock”.

andahugesenseofshock”.

EddieGonzales,a43-year-oldmailman,wasinhistruckablockawaywhenthefirstplanehititstarget.“Youcouldseepeopleholdingonfortheirlives,”hesaid,talkingaboutaquarterofamilefromthecourthousewherefourmenweregivenlifesentencesinthespringfortheirpartsinthe1998Africanembassybombings.

“OhmyGod,anotherone’sfallen.Canyouimaginethesmokeandtheheat.Peopledon’twanttoburntodeath.Isawabout15fallorjump.Firsttherewasone,abouttwoorthreeminuteslatertherewasanother.Ihadtearsinmyeyes.Ifelttheemotions.I’mshocked.Iheardthesoundofajetandaloudexplosion.Ilookedupandsawtheglass,metal.Alotofpeopledownbelowwererunningfortheirlives.Ijumpedoutofmytruckandgotbehindawall.Idraggedtwowomenbehindthewallwithme.”

Police,membersoftheWorldTradeCenter’ssecuritystaffandstafffromthemayor’semergencydepartmenttriedtocomfortdistraughtworkers,whowerevariouslyburstingintotearsandsittingsilentlyonthekerbsofthesidewalks,notknowingwhatelsetodo.

Forty-three-year-oldTommyO’Grady,beardedandwithhishairpulledbackinaponytail,wasworkingonaconstructionsiteatBatteryParknearby.“WewereonbreaktimewhenIheardasoundlikeanF-16,youknow,anicesizeofajet,silver,anditgotfasteruntilhereallygunneditatthebuilding.What’swrongwithourcountry?Ifeelhurtthatourcountrycan’tdoanythingtostopthis.Thisisterrible.Whoever’sinvolved,bombtheircountrysothattheycan’tdonothing.”

Aman,coveredindust,brokein:“Exactlyright.”

MrO’Gradycontinued:“Theyweredeterminedtogetthatbuildingdown.Ourcountry,we’rethestrongestintheworldandwecan’tdefendourselves.We’reanelephantandwelettheselittlepeascomeinheretodothis.Enoughisenough,man.Bombthesepeople.They’reallinittogether.”

Onewoman,asecretarypantingherwordsthroughtears,hadbeenonherwayuptothe92ndfloorhavinghadhershiftputbackanhour.“That’stheonly

uptothe92ndfloorhavinghadhershiftputbackanhour.“That’stheonlyreasonI’mhere,”shesaid.“IheardanexplosionasIwasgoingintothebuildingandeveryonewasrunningovereachotherdownthestairwell.IsawpeoplerunningandIdon’texpectmytraderstobealive.”

Bymidafternoon,some1,550walkingwoundedhadassembledinLibertyStatepark,oppositetheworld’smostfamousandfamiliarskyline–nowbelchingthicksmoke,withonlytheStatueofLibertyrisingclearfromthesunlitwater.Refusingtogivenumbers,theauthoritiesswayedtointheirguesstimates.

ButagrislyrealitywasemergingfromwitnessestalkingtotheGuardianyesterday:thattheauthoritiesandtheofficemanagershadclearlyfailedtoevacuatetheareaaroundthetowersastheyburned,potentiallycausingthousandsofdeaths.

Onestockbroker,AlanRedmond,saidhehadarrivedforworkattheNasdaqexchangetobetoldthattherewasadelayinopening,andtowait.“Iwasoneofanumberoffolks,hangingoutonthecornerbyTrinityChurch,watchingthemburn.Idecidedtogetthehellout,butIleftpeoplethere.They’dhavebeenrightunderneaththesecondbuildingwhenitcamedown.Acoupleofmilliontonnesofsteelandconcreterightontheirheads.”

Onemanwasshootingamateurvideofromthefootoftheburningtower,andwas,hesaid,“toldbythepolicejusttowaitthereandnottogointothebuilding.Thenmybrothersaid:‘We’dbettergetthehellawayfromthisplace,’andthatwasaboutthetimetogetout.”

Itwasonly20minutesafterthefirsttowerfellthatasealofpoliceofficersmovedthecrowdsnorthupSixthAvenueandBroadway,followedbyrollingthunderasanotherbuildingcollapsed,andwithitatidalwaveofsmoke.

LuisGonzalezwasamongagroupofworkersfromanearbyconstructionsitewhowentintohelp,andrecallsthebombingofthesamebuildingin1993.Hewastryingtogetat25portauthoritypoliceseengoingintothesecondtowertofall.“Wewerecutoffbyallthestufffallingaroundus,wegotouttwoelderlymen,butcouldn’tgetinanyfurther.AllIcanthinkaboutisthosepeoplestrandeduptherewhocouldnotgetdown.Canyouimagine,justwaitingtodie?”

die?”

Allmorning,thoseinflightstreamedupthehighwaysandoverthebridgesthatringthecity.MayorRudyGiulianimadehisofficialappearanceintheearlyafternoon,topraisetherescueeffortandpromisethat“thepeopleofNewYorkaremuchstrongerthanbarbaricterrorism”.Thenhemadeaspine-chilling,logisticalannouncement,asschoolclosingtimeapproached:“Ifanychildrendon’thaveparentscometopickthemup,we’llbeholdingontothemataspecialcenter.”

PassengerssacrificedtheirlivestoavertevengreatertragedyMobilephonecallsrevealaplantooverpowerthehijackers

DuncanCampbell,13September2001

MomentsbeforeUnitedAirlinesflight93smashedintoafieldinPennsylvania,thepassengersonboardtookavoteandapparentlydecidedtosacrificetheirlivestoavertanevengreatertragedy,itemergedlastnight.

Severaldistraughtpassengerstelephonedtheirrelativesfromthedoomedplanetosaygoodbye,explainingthatthejethadbeenhijackedandthattheyweregoingto“dosomethingaboutit”.

Asinvestigatorscollatedevidencefromaseriesofextraordinaryvaledictorymobiletelephonecalls,itbecameapparentthatthepassengersknewthehijackersintendedtoflytheplanetohitatargetinWashington.

Thepassengersmadeadesperateplantoresisttheterroristsbyforce.Agroupofthemisbelievedtohaverushedtothecockpitandstruggledwiththehijackers,sendingtheplanedivingtotheground.

Onepassenger,ThomasBurnett,toldhiswife,Deena:“Iknowwe’reallgoingtodie–there’sthreeofuswhoaregoingtodosomethingaboutit,”accordingtothefamily’spriest,theRev.FrankColacicco.Hetoldher:“Iloveyou,honey,”beforethecallwentdead.

ViolentattacksonArabAmericansCommunitiesacrossNorthAmericaandAustraliarockedbyanti-Muslimanger

StuartMillar,14September2001

DozensofretaliatoryincidentshavebeenreportedthroughouttheUnitedStates,whereArabAmericancommunitieshavebeeninastateofsiegesinceTuesday’sattacks.

GunshotswerefiredatanIslamiccenterinaDallassuburbyesterday,shatteringwindows.Noonewasinjuredatthecenter,whichincludesamosqueandaschool.

InChicago,amolotovcocktailwasthrownatanArabAmericancommunitycenter.Later,300marchers–somewavingAmericanflagsandchanting“USA!USA!”–triedtomarchonamosqueinBridgeview,asuburbtothesouth-westofthecity.

Threedemonstratorswerearrestedaspolicesealedofftheblocksaroundtheclosedmosqueandturnedthemarchaway.Oneofthemarchers,ColinZaremba,19,said:“I’mproudtobeAmericanandIhateArabsandIalwayshave.”

InHuntington,NewYork,meanwhile,amantriedtorunoveraPakistaniwomaninthecarparkofashoppingmall.AdamLang,75,whowasdrunk,thenfollowedthewomanintoashopandthreatenedtokillherfor“destroyingmycountry”.

Acrossthecountry,MuslimsandmanyIslamicgroupssaytheyhavereceivedhatemail,aswellasabusivetelephonecallsandemails.

BombthreatshavecloseddownmanyArabbusinessesandschoolsinDetroit.

InOrangeCounty,California,SarahMohamedwaswokenupbyatelephonecallerwhotoldher:“I’mgoingtocomeoverthereandshowyouwhatneedsto

callerwhotoldher:“I’mgoingtocomeoverthereandshowyouwhatneedstobedonetoyoupeople.”

AparentatanIslamicschoolinPasadena,SalwaAbdul-Aaal,aphysiotherapist,saidthatoneofherpatientshaddemandedtoknowwhatherreligionwas.“IfI’mMuslim,shedoesn’twanttoseeme.”

DavidBonior,aDemocraticcongressmanfromMichigan,hometoAmerica’sbiggestArabcommunity,said:“Suchhatefulprejudiceoffendsusall.”

InMontreal,Canada,afirebombwasthrownatamosque.

InBrisbane,Australia,aschoolbuspackedwithMuslimchildrenwasstoned.

Firstreactions

ThesumofallourfearsEveninitsagony,Americamuststaycool

Leader,12September2001

TheUnitedStateswasplungedintoastateofwaryesterdaybyanenemyitcouldnotsee.UnlikeotherconflictsinwhichtheUShasengaged,therewerenoklaxonsthistime,noairraidsirens,noopendeclarationofhostilities,noultimatum,noranypriorexpressionofintent.

Thiswasnomerecarbombing,nosneakattackonaUSwarshiporembassy,noralonegunman’stargetingofanAmericandiplomatorbusinessman.Yesterday’soffensivewassimplyunparalleled.Itcame,withoutatraceofawarning,onmultipletargetschosenfortheirparamountsymbolicvalue,andwasclearly,pitilesslydesignedtocausethemaximumdamage,thehighestpossiblenumberofcasualties,andthegreatestachievabledegreeofterror.

EventhesailorsoftheUSPacificFleetatPearlHarbourin1941discovered,toolate,whowasattackingthem.Whentheyrealisedwhatwashappening,theyknewwhy.Andtheyknewwhattheyhadtodoinresponse.Achiefpartofthehorrorofyesterday’strulyappalling,awesomeeventswasthelackofafaceoraname,thelackofmeaning–thelackofreason.Butterrorismhasneverbeenarationalactivity.Itisbydefinitionanegationofhumanity,theoppositeoflife,sense,andsensibility.

Itis,astheUSsecretaryofstate,ColinPowell,saidinaspeechlastApril,“apersistentdisease”.Tothosemany,stillunknownnumbersofAmericanswhodiedyesterday,tothosewhowereinjured,andtothosewhowillsuffertheconsequencesofthismassmurderfortherestoftheirlives,weofferourdeepsympathy.Tothosewhocarriedoutthesecowardlyattacks,weofferonlyourcontempt–andtheheartfeltconvictionthatBritainandtheBritishpeople,nostrangerstoterroristoutrages,willdoallintheirpowertoassisttheAmericangovernmentinfindingthosewhoareresponsible.TheUnitedStates,itsgovernment,anditspeopledidnotdeservethis.Forthisdayofcarnageandtears

government,anditspeopledidnotdeservethis.Forthisdayofcarnageandtearstherecanbenojustificationorexcuse.

Itwas,asthesequenceofhorrorfirstbegantounfoldacrossNewYork’sskyline,initiallyunbelievable...WhattherenegadeSaudimillionaireterrorist,OsamabinLaden,andhisfanaticalIslamicfundamentalistfollowershadtriedtodoinFebruary1993hadnowfinallybeenachieved.Ifevertheworldneededasymbolofthepotencyofthethreatthatconfrontsusall,hereitwasasfrightfulactuality.

[11September]willberememberedforyearstocome,asthemomentwheninternationalterrorismbecame,withoutquestion,theprimarymenacetoglobalsecurity.IfthesemenofbloodcanreachoutintoAmerica’sfrontyardandwreakdesperatehavocwithsuchapparentimpunity,thenwhoamongusissafe?

Thatismerelyoneofthemanyquestionsthatnowcometotheforewithanurgencyborneofgriefandarisingtideofanger.AnotheriswhethertheUSgovernmentcouldhavepreventedtheattacks.

Itisnotasthoughitwasunawareoftheproblem;itisnotaquestionofcomplacency.TheStateDepartmenthaslongchartedandplottedthenumerousterroristgroupsthatinhabitallcornersoftheglobe,fromNorthernIrelandtothePhilippines,andwhichcould(intheory)mountattacksagainsttheUSathome.Itpublishesannuallyalistof“statesponsors”ofterrorismwhichincludescountriessuchasIraq,Iran,LibyaandSudanbutalso,inrecentyears,Afghanistan,BinLaden’sadoptedhome.

LastMay,MrBushplacedhisvice-president,DickCheney,inpersonalchargeofcounter-terrorismeffortsintheUSmainlandandcreatedanewnationalagency,theNationalPreparednessOffice,tocoordinatefederalemergencyresponsesandintelligence-gathering.TheFBI,theCIA,thePentagon’sDefenceIntelligenceAgency,andtheNationalSecurityAgencyalreadycommandvastbudgetsanddeployenormousresourcestokeeptrackofpotentialthreats.Butyesterday,noneofthisworked.Therewasnotasniffofwhatwascoming,notahopeinhell.Notasinglefighterwasscrambledasthehijackedplanesloomed,itseems;notabomberwasseen,letalonecaught.Onceagain,thelessonwasclear.Suicidalterrorismagainstciviliantargetsisallbutunstoppable,whetheryouareanAfghanresistancefightersuchasAhmadShahMasood,anIsraeli

youareanAfghanresistancefightersuchasAhmadShahMasood,anIsraelipoliceman,orthemostpowerfulcountryintheworld.

Thatisnottosaythatterrorismcannotbecurbed,orthatitsperpetratorscannotbefoundandpunished.Thenext,perhapsbiggestquestion,evenastheNewYorkruinsarecombedandsiftedforsignsofunextinguishedlife,iswho?

MrMasoodisrelevanttothisinquiry,beinghimselfarecent,probablevictimoftheBinLadenterrornetworkanditsTalibanandArabsupporters.Threeweeksago,BinLadenboastedthathewasplanningtoattackAmericaninterestsinasupposedly“unprecedented”manner.Suchthreatshavebeenmadebefore.Andothersyesterdaywerenamedaspossiblesuspects,includingthemilitantsofIslamicJihad,oneofIsrael’sprincipaltormentors.ButBinLadenhasthetrackrecord.

HehasattackedonUSterritorybefore–the1993TradeCenterbombing.HisattacksonUSembassiesinKenyaandTanzaniain1998werebloodyintheextreme;hundredsdied.HeiswidelybelievedtohaveorganisedtheattacklastyearontheUSSCole,anAmericanwarshipvisitingYemen.BinLadenhaslongbeenregardedbytheAmericansastheirmostpowerful,non-stateopponent.Hehasthecash,hehastheresources,andhehasthesortofblindruthlessnessandself-righteousnessthatisrequiredforsuchinhumanity.AndifBinLadenisthemostlikelysuspect,that,inaperversesortofway,maybeablessingindisguise.

ThethoughtthatSaddamHussein’sIraq,oranother“roguestate”,werebehindtheattacksisindeedchilling.That,ifproven,couldprovokeafull-scaleAmericanwarofreprisalwithconsequencesthatwouldbetrulyworldwide.Anothermercy,onadayoflittlecompassion,isthefactthatneitherchemicalnorbiologicalweaponswereusedinNewYorkorWashington.Theymighthavebeenand,ithastobesaid,MrBush’sflagshipdefenceplan–nationalmissiledefence–wouldhavebeenpowerlesstostopit.Effective,worldwidecurbsontheproliferationofweaponsofmassdestructionandofconventionalweapons,includingsmallarms,issomethingtowhichtheBushWhiteHousemustnowpaymuchmoreattention.

ThehurtthatallAmericansmustfeeltodaycannotbeunderestimated.Twoimmediatedangersarise.Oneisthat,wounded,bewildered,andconvincedthattheworldisitsenemy,Americawilldrawbackintoitself.Tooofteninrecent

theworldisitsenemy,Americawilldrawbackintoitself.Tooofteninrecentmonths,theUShasseemedatoddswithitsfriendsandpartnersonarangeofissues,bigandsmall.Butanevengreaterunilateralism,evenagrowingsiegementality,istobeavoidedatallcosts.Itwouldbeavictoryfortheterrorists.

Likewise,Americanover-reaction,especiallyofthemilitaryvariety,mustbeguardedagainst.Thetemptationrightnowistomakesomebodypay.Andpay...andpay...andpay.Takeadeepbreath,America.Keepcool.Andkeepcontrol.

Whereareyou,MrBush?TheUSpresidenthasbeennotableforonethingduringthiscrisis–hisabsence

JonathanFreedland,14September2001

Noonehasyetwrittenthegoldenrulebookofpoliticsbut,whentheydo,oneinstructionwillappearunderlinedandinboldtype.Inthechaptermarked“Leadership”itwillsay,“Whenthere’sacrisis,bethere.”Forpresidentsandprimeministersit’sasimpleenoughlawtoobserve.Allyouhavetodoisshiftyourselftothesceneoftheaction.Whatyousaywhenyougetthereishardlyrelevant;ifyouspeakwell,it’sabonus.Justmakesureyoudotheminimum:turnup.GeorgeVIknewthatwellenough.Thatiswhyheandtoday’sQueenMotherhadthegoodsensetotakethemselvestotheEastEndduringtheBlitz.Thatonewalkaboutmayhavebeenthemosteffectiveinmodernhistory;theWindsorshavebeenlivingoffthegoodwillitengenderedformorethanhalfacentury.

BillClintonrememberedtherule,too,ensuringthathewastheleadmourneratOklahomaCity’smemorialserviceforthe168killedbyTimothyMcVeigh’s1995bomb.Hisperformancethere,andintheimmediateaftermathoftheattack,wassowelljudgedthatitrescuedapresidencyindiretroubleandputhimoncourseforre-electionthefollowingyear.

YetAmericatodayisledbyapresidentwhoseemstohavestudiedatthe

YetAmericatodayisledbyapresidentwhoseemstohavestudiedattheVladimirPutinschoolofpolitics.JustastheRussianleaderenragedhiscountrymenayearagobyfailingtoleavehisholidaydachatostandwiththewidowsoftheKursksubmarine,soGeorgeBushhasmanagedtobreakthroughthegriefandshockofNewYorkers–andfillthemwithfury.

“WhereareyouMrPresident?NewYorkhasarighttoknow.”bellowedNewsdayyesterday.ThatnewspaperandotherswereincensedthattwodaysaftertheWorldTradeCenter’stwintowershadbeenturnedintoacloudofasbestos-filleddustandrubble–andwithoneestimatepredictingasmanyas20,000dead–GeorgeBushhadstillnotshownupintheircity.

HemadeittothePentagon(thoughnotquickly)butNewYork,whichbelievesitsufferedinlessthananhouronTuesdaywhatLondonersenduredforyearsduringthewar,wasstillpresident-lessyesterdayafternoon.He’llbetheretoday,promptedbytheoutcry,butmanyNewYorkerssayit’stoolate.Thecityhastakengraveoffence.AsoneveteranNewYorkobserverputittomeyesterday,“WhoneedsBushanyway?We’llgetthroughthiswithouthim.”

ThefailuretoshowupfastisjustoneoftheblackmarksAmerica’sstill-newpresidenthasmanagedtonotchupintheintense,unimaginabledayssinceterrorstrucktheUnitedStates.Byuniversalconsent,theattackofSeptember11willstandasthedefiningtestofthisyoungpresidency.AgrowingconsensussaysGeorgeBushisflunkingitbadly.

Hegotitwrongfromtheveryfirstmoment,whenhebrokeTuesday’shorrificnewstoagroupofteachersandschoolchildreninSarasota,Florida.UsuallywithBushthewordsarepassableenough–theyshouldbe,theyarewrittenforhim–butthetoneofvoiceiswrong.Somehowhecannotmanagetoreadascriptwithconvictionorevenasensethatheunderstandsthetextinfrontofhim.“Hewouldn’tbehiredasanewsreaderinalocalTVstation,”sniffsoneDemocraticspeechwriter.

Truetoform,Bushwashorriblyoff-keyinSarasota.“Todaywe’vehadanationaltragedy,”hesaid,asifannouncingaweatherreport.Butthenhegotmorethanjustthedeliverywrong.“Ihavespokentothevice-president,tothegovernorofNewYork,tothedirectoroftheFBIandhaveordered...afull-scaleinvestigationtohuntdownandtofindthosefolkswhocommittedthisact,”he

investigationtohuntdownandtofindthosefolkswhocommittedthisact,”hesaid.

It’sworthtakingagoodlookatthatsentence.Perhapsweshouldletpasshisimmediatereferencetothevice-president,offeredasif–inconfirmationofhiscritics–itisDickCheneyratherthanhimselfwhoistrulyincharge.(“Don’tworry,I’vespokentothebigguyandhesayswe’reallgonnabeOK.”)Butlookattheendofthesentence,thebitwhereBushdaredlookupfromhistextforasecondandadlib.We’regoing“tofindthosefolkswhocommittedthisact”.Folks?

“Jarring”,columnistMaryMcGrorycalledit,beforenotingthattheSarasotastatementwasdeliveredbyBushwearingafacethatwasmore“apprehensivethanresolute”.Shewasright.Bushworethedeer-in-the-headlightsexpressionmadefamousbyhisfather’shaplessdeputy,DanQuayle.OnadaywhenAmericansneededtolookuptoanationalfatherfigure,theygotthedauphinson–apparentlyscaredoutofhiswits.

Hisnextmove–ormoves–confirmedtheimpression.WhiletheworldwasgluedtoitsTVsets,andwhileNewYork’sfirefighterswerewadingintoburningbuildingstosavelives,thepresidentwasconductingauniqueaerialtouroftheAmericanheartland.AdvisedthatitwasunsafetoreturntoWashington,heflewfirstfromFloridatoShreveport,Louisiana,andfinallytoOffuttairforcebaseinOmaha,Nebraska–touchingdownineachspottoreadyetanotherscriptedstatement.Forlongspellsduringthateerieday,nooneevenknewwherethepresidentwas.ItwasasiftheDemocraticslogandirectedagainstBush’sfatherduringthe1988electioncampaignhadcomealiveagain:“WherewasGeorge?”

ThezigzagairtouroftheUnitedStateswasprobablyforgivenatthetime;therewastoomuchelsetothinkabout.ButnowAmericansarehavingsecondthoughts.“HowcouldMrBushappearincontrol,andcalmthenation,fromabunkerinNebraska?”askedyesterday’sWashingtonPost.IftheWhiteHousewassafeforCheneyandnationalsecurityadviserCondoleezzaRice(andevenDaddyBush,therecoincidentallyonavisit),thenwhynotforthepresident?Andifhe,withhisescortofF-15sandF-16s,didnotfeelsafe,thenhowwereregularAmericansmeanttofeel?

regularAmericansmeanttofeel?

Eventhepresident’sfellowRepublicanshavenotbeenimpressed.WilliamBennett,drugtsartoBushSnr,said:“Thisisnot1812.Itcannotlookasifthepresidenthasrunoff,oritwilllooklikewecan’tdefendourmostimportantinstitutions.”

WhiteHouseofficialshaveinsistedthatthepresidenthimselfwasitchingtogetbacktothecapitalbutthathissecretservicebodyguarddeemeditunsafe.“Bullshit,”saysoneservantofapastadministration.Thesecretservicealwaysadvisesultra-caution,hesays;mostpresidentsmakethepoliticalcalculationtooverrulethem.BillClintondiditallthetime;ifhehadn’t,he’dhavebarelydoneawalkabout.ButBushdidnotmakethatcall

Americastrikesback

BushannouncesstartofonslaughtonTalibanandal-QaidaCruisemissilesfiredfromUSandBritishships

Staffandagencies,7October2001

PresidentGeorgeBushsaidtodaythattheUS,withBritain’shelp,hadbegunmilitarystrikesagainstmilitaryinstallationsofAfghanistan’srulingTalibanandtrainingcampsofOsamabinLaden’sal-Qaidanetwork.

Theprivate,Islamabad-basedAfghanIslamicpressagencyquotedtheTalibanassayingAmericanplaneshadbombedareasnearKabulairportinthenorthernpartofthecity.ThestrikesareinretaliationforattacksontheUSonSeptember11.

Theagencysaidtherewerenodetailsofcasualtiesandnoreportsofdamagetothecityitself.Itadded,however,that“hugesmokeisrisingnearKabulairport”.

Afghanistan’sothermajorcities–Jalalabad,HeratandKandahar–werealsohit.CNNreportedthatacommandcenterandradarsysteminKandahar,aTalibanstronghold,hadbeendestroyed.

USofficialssaidtheattackbeganwithvolleysofcruisemissilesfiredfromUSandBritishshipsatairdefencesandal-Qaidacamps.

Inhistelevisedaddresstothenation,MrBushsaidAmericawas“supportedbythewilloftheworld”asitlauncheditslong-awaitedstrikesagainsttheTaliban.TheTalibanhadbeengivenaclearultimatumtwoweeksago,thepresidentsaid.

“NoneofthosedemandsweremetandnowtheTalibanwillpayaprice,”headded.Theterroristforceswouldattempttohidefromtheonslaughtbutwouldfindnoshelter,MrBushvowed.Hewarnedofalongwaraheadbutsaid:“Wewillwinthisconflictthroughthepatientaccumulationofsuccesses.”

PresidentBushalsosignalledthatthewaronterrorwouldnotendwiththe

PresidentBushalsosignalledthatthewaronterrorwouldnotendwiththeattackonAfghanistan.“Everynationhasachoicetomakeinthisconflict.Thereisnoneutralground,”hesaid.

BlairconfirmsBritishroleinattacksPrimeministerplaysdownthreattoUK

MarkTran,7October2001

TonyBlairtonightconfirmedthatcruisemissileswerefiredfromBritishsubmarinesinthefirstwaveofattacksonAfghanistan.

Inashortbutemotionaladdress,theprimeministerpaidfulsometributetoBritain’sarmedforcesasheexplainedthecloseBritishinvolvementwiththelong-expectedassaultontheTalibanregimeandOsamabinLaden’sal-Qaidanetwork.

MrBlairsaidtheTalibanhadbeengiventhreeweekstochoosebetweenjusticeorterror“andtheychosetosidewithterror”.Hesaidtherewasnodoubtthattheattackswerecarriedoutbytheal-QaidanetworkandmastermindedbyBinLaden.

WhiletheUSwouldbearthebruntoftheattack,MrBlairsaiditwouldbebackednotonlybyBritain,butFrance,Germany,AustriaandCanada.Thepowerfulcoalitionofsupporthad“strengthened,notweakened”sincelastmonth’satrocities,theprimeministersaid.MrBlairhasplayedapivotalroleinshortingupthecoalition,havingjustreturnedfromalightningtriptoRussia,PakistanandIndia.

EvenifBritishcitizenshadnotdiedintheattacksintheUS,MrBlairsaidBritainwouldhavetakenpartintonight’sstrikesastheoutragesintheUSwerean“anattackonusallandpeopleofallfaiths”.MrBlairdescribedthesuicideattacksontheWorldTradeCenterandthePentagonasthreateningallpeoplesandtheirlivelihoods.

MrBlairrejectedthenotionthattheonslaughtonAfghanistanwasawaragainstIslam.“ThisisnotawarwithIslam,”MrBlairsaid,describingBin

againstIslam.“ThisisnotawarwithIslam,”MrBlairsaid,describingBinLadenandhisnetworkas“terroristspureandsimple”,addingthatIslamisapeacefulandtolerantreligion.

SeekingtoplaydownfearsofterroristattacksontheUK,theprimeministersaidtherewas“nospecificcrediblethreattotheUKweknowof”andthatBritainhadwell-preparedcontingencyplans.

Newlawsfora‘new’danger

Bushsignsnewanti-terrorismlawsPresidentinsistshumanrightsnotaffected

Staffandagencies,26October2001

TheUSpresident,GeorgeBush,todaysignednewanti-terroristlegislationdesignedtocrackdownonanewbreedof“modernterrorists”threateninghiscountry.

“Thechangeseffectedtodaywillhelptocounterathreatlikenootherournationhaseverfaced,”MrBushsaidataWhiteHousesigningceremony.

“Theterroristsmustbepursued.Theymustbedefeatedandtheymustbebroughttojustice,”headded.

MrBushsaidthattheUSAPatriotActaimedatputtinganendtofinancialcounterfeitingandmoneylaunderingbyterroristorganisations.Itmarkedaradicalshiftoninformationsharingandlegalisedbroadcommunicationssurveillance,includingtheinterceptionofemailsandinternetcontactaswellasthetappingofmobilephonecalls.

TheactmakesfederalsearchwarrantsintheUSlegalacrossallstates.Itextendsthepossiblepenaltiesforanyoneconvictedofterroristactivityandforanyonewhohelpsterrorists.Italsosetsup“newandharshpenalties”foranyonecaughtinthepossessionofbiologicalweapons.

TheHouseofRepresentativesandtheSenateapprovedtheanti-terrorismpackageinalittleoveramonth,skippingmuchofthenormalcommitteeprocess.

MrBush,meanwhile,soughttoassureAmericansthatthemeasuresincludedintheactwouldnotimpingeonhumanrights.

“Today,wetakeanessentialstepindefeatingterroristswhileprotectingtheconstitutionalrightsofallAmericans,”hesaid.

constitutionalrightsofallAmericans,”hesaid.

However,criticsweretroubledbythesweepingpowersgrantedtotheFBIandotherlawenforcementagencies.

“Itisstilldangerouslegislation,andunfortunatelytherearestilltoomanyweaknessesinthebillthatcouldendupcurbingandinfringingfundamentalcivilrightsandliberties,”saidRalphNeas,presidentoftheliberalpressuregroup,PeopleFortheAmericanWay.

TheDemocratsenatorRussFeingoldwastheonlysenatortovoteagainstthepackage.“Thisbilldoesnotstriketherightbalancebetweenempoweringlawenforcementandprotectingcivilliberties,”MrFeingoldsaid.

Pickingthroughthewreckage

Asthesiftingofhumanremainsgoeson,banksandlawyersjoinascrambleforthespoilsEdVulliamy,11November2001

Twomonthsagothismorning,thetwintowersoftheWorldTradeCenterroseproud,audaciousandbeautifulfromtheNewYorkskyline.Bymiddaytheyhadvanishedintothedustoftheirownstone,intoamassgrave.AllthatremainedwasaninfernoofdeathanddustonanaccursedterraincalledGroundZero.

Twomonthson,GroundZeroisallcrooked,cruelruinsbayonetedontosteelmesh.Undertheharshglareoffloodlights,thearmofaheavycraneliftsanotherlimbofincineratedsteelfromthedunesofrubble.

Thereisaflare,aburstofflame–fortheburiedfirestillburnswhite-hot–andapallofghastlyblacksmokerisesintothenight,blockingtheviewoftheilluminatedEmpireStateBuilding.Thestenchoftheplumeissickly-sweet;everyoneknowswhatitisbutnoonesaysso.Only:“ThisishowAuschwitzmusthavestunk,onlydiluted,”asonepoliceforensicscientistremarked.“Fifteenhundreddegreesdownthere,”saysafireman,“andstillburning.”

GroundZerobeganasashrinetothevictimsof11September.Butitsstoryhastwistedandwarped,notunlikethelandscape.The“twintowers”ofheroism–policeandfiremen–havecometoblows,exchangingbruiseswitharrests.Tensionsinvolvingthefiremanhaveledtotheresignationoftheexhaustedfirechief,ThomasvonEssen,andthesystemsetuptoaidvictimsandtheirfamilies–manyofwhomhaveseenlittleornothingofthemillionsdonated–hasturnedintoascandalthatledthedirectoroftheRedCrosstoresign.Theplacehasbecomeacauldronoftoxins,poisonousdustsandpowderedmetalscatchingthemorningsunandbelchingintotheHudsonriver.

Thenumbersofmissing-presumed-deadfluctuatewildlyasunofficialcalculationsgrateagainstthoseoftheauthorities.Onlygeneticanalysiscanprovideananswer,andeventhemostambitiousforensicDNAprojectever

provideananswer,andeventhemostambitiousforensicDNAprojectevermountedfacestheproblemoftainted,potentiallyuselessmaterial.Whilehumanremainssmoulder,lawyerswagehigh-feewarfareoverwhoshouldpayhowmuchandforwhatinal-Qaida’sbloodywake.

Themenwhoonceworkedinfrenziedchaingangsnowlabourmostlyinsilence,apartfromtheoddcellphonecallacrossthe“buddysystem”.OntheedgeofGroundZeroistheDakotaRoadhouse,wheremengathertodiscusstwomonthsofchange.“Nowadayswetalkless,workharderanddon’tfeellikeheroesanymore,”saysTonyCastelnuovo,heavyplantdriverfromNewJersey.“Atfirstitwasliketheworldwasonourshoulders,likeweweretheguys.Nowit’slikeajobthat’llneverbedone.”

GlenfromBostondriftedtoGroundZeroon13September“tobecomeaNewYorker”.Heuseshisexpertiseintheconstructionindustrytotunnelinsidethewreckage––“Ilookatitfromtheinside.”Amongtheshards,Glenseessteelcrosses.AreyouaChristian?Hepauses,harvestinganotherbeer.“Yes.”Hehasbeeninconstructionfor30years“andIsavelives”.Nowheisretrievingnothingmorethan“bitsofpeople”.What’sdownthereinthefurnaceofGroundZero?“Nothing...someonescrewedup–don’taskmewho.”

Thesearchforremainsmustcontinue,saysMattNewman,craneoperator.Therewasindeedagrislyfindon21October–identifiableremainsofninehumans.ThepiecesofcharredfleshwerecoveredwithAmericanflagsandceremoniallystretcheredoutpastalineofsalutingworkers.

AtthetimeofaMassamidthemountainsofdust,themissingstoodat4,470,with460bodiesrecovered.Butaworldusedtocomputerexactitudemayneverknowhowmanyperished.Companiesandorganisationsfearedtohavesustainedthehighestlossescountonly2,405–halfwhatwasoriginallyfeared.Thepolicemaintainamissing-or-deadfigureof4,764.“Aslongastheprocessisunderway,”saysThomasAntenen,deputypolicecommissioner,“thenumbersaregoingtoberefined.”

Withbodiesbarelyexistentinthefurnace,andidentificationusingtattoosordentalrecordsimpossible,expertsestimateamillionDNAsampleswillhavetobetestedandthatcouldtaketwoyears.

Afterthedisaster,theworld’slargestmorguewasacomplexofrefrigeratedunitscoveringseveralblocks–thebeginningofthelargestandmosttraumaticDNAprojectinhistory.“It’smassive,”sayschiefforensicofficerRobertShaler.“We’veneverdoneanythinglikethisbefore.Idon’tknowofanybodythat’severbeenfacedwiththis.”

BruceKaneofEnglewood,NewJersey,heldamemorialserviceon30SeptemberforhismissingsonHoward,fearinghe’dneverhaveabodytobury.ButhelearnttwoweeksagothatHowardwasoneofthefirstvictimstobeidentifiedthroughDNAmatching.Itwasarelief,hesaid,“likeIgotmysonbacktobury.Itbringsclosure,ifthereissuchaword.Atleastwecanputhimtorest.”

ThelastremainingessenceofthoselostissenttoalaboratoryatthefootoftheWasatchMountainsinUtah,wherethousandsofbar-codedvialspassfromonehigh-speedroboticprocessortothenextassupercomputersdecodegeneticfootprintsoftheclearfluidsinside.“Youlookatthesesamples,andyoutrytodealwiththemagnitudeofwhat’sbehindthem.Sometimesit’seasierjusttothinkofthemasnumbers,”saysBenoitLeclair,ascientistwithMyriadGeneticLaboratories,thecompanycontractedtoidentifytheremains.

Sofar,Myriadhasprocessedabout4,000tissuesamples,some3,000personaleffectsofthevictimsand3,300DNAsamplesfromrelatives.But,aseachdaypasses,bodytissuesaretaintedbyhumidity,fire,chemicalsandbacteria.“It’sahuge,decayingmassofextremelydamagedremains,”saysLeclair.“Perhapsthey’llfindsomethingfromeveryone.Perhapsnot.It’sanybody’sguess.”

On2November,thecollisionbetweenrawemotionandbitterrealityeruptedintoviolenceatGroundZero,policeofficersandfiremensettingupononeanother.AdozenfiremenwerearrestedandseveralofficersinjuredafterthecityauthoritiesreducedthenumberofFireDepartmentrescueworkers,althoughtheremainsofonly91ofthemissing343firefightershadbeenrecovered.

Somefirefighterssaidthedecisiontoreducetheirnumbersfrom60to24wasdirectlyconnectedtotheexcavationofmorethan$200millioningoldbulliontwodaysearlier.“We’rebeingdisrespected.Twodaysaftertheyfindthegold,we’repulledoffthejob,”saidfiremanMikeDalyofEngine280.“Thecityis

we’repulledoffthejob,”saidfiremanMikeDalyofEngine280.“Thecityismoreconcernedwithgoldthanpeople.”Otherssaidthecitywantedtospeeduptheremovalofdebristosavemoney.

“We’reonamission,andwewon’tleaveuntilit’sdone,”insistedfiremanChuckHorack.“Weseethesiteassacredground.Ourbrothersarestillinthedebris.Noonecaneverknowhowimportantitistobringtheirhusbandhometoawidow.”MayorGiulianilaunchedasavageattackonthefiremen,sayingtheiractionswere‘sinful’.“Theyhaveabsolutelynomonopolyincaringaboutthepeoplethere,”hesaid.

OfthedisputesragingatGroundZero,noneismorepressingthanthedisbursementofmorethan$1.2billionraisedbycharitiesforthefamiliesofvictims.Thecharitiescollectingdonationshavenosystemforco-ordinatingpayments,makingitdifficulttotrackwhohasreceivedassistanceandwhohasnot.

TheRedCrosshasfacedquestionsabout$550mraisedindisasterrelief.Twoweeksago,USRedCrosspresidentBernadineHealywasforcedtoresignafteritwasrevealedtheorganisationhadwithheldmorethan$264mraisedforvictims’families.

WhileHealyarguedthatthefundsshouldbeusedforvictimsoffutureterroristattacks,CongressaccusedtheRedCrossofmisleadingmillionsofdonorsbelievingtheirmoneywouldbeuseddirectlytorelievevictims.MichiganRepresentativeBartStupakaccusedtheagencyofusingtheterroristattackstoserveitsownneeds,suchasimprovingitstelephoneandtechnologysystemsandbuildingitsreserveofblood.

Whilesomewaittoreceivemoney,othersfighttokeepwhattheyhaveandmakemore.Legionsoflawyersarenowlockedincombatoverwhowillbeartheburdenofdestructionandthecostsofreconstruction.Noonewantstofaceafloodofclaimsfromvictimsandbereaved;butnobank,investorordeveloperwantstomissoutononeofthebiggestinsurancepayoutsofalltime.

Andyet,themostremarkablethingaboutthephenomenonofGroundZeroisthatitgrindson.AnentirecivilisationpassesthroughthetentestablishedbytheSalvationArmytofeedhundredsofreliefworkerseachday:blacks,whites,

SalvationArmytofeedhundredsofreliefworkerseachday:blacks,whites,Latinos,Asians,arrayedinfrontofaheapofmacaronisalad,handsoutstretchedwithtrayslikeanadvertisementforNewYorkmulticulturalism.

AnFBIagentstandsnexttoaPolishimmigrantdressedinaprotectiveasbestossuit;customsofficers,policepatrolmen,Mexicanlabourers,environmentalhealthmonitors,firemen,allthrowntogetherinthesamequeuewaitingforthesamething:lunchatGroundZero,servedina“kitchen”ofseverallongtablesbyanassemblylineofvolunteers.

Anotherlineupoftablesofferseyewash,footpads,handcreams,aspirinsandotherhealthitems.Inthissuddenlyegalitariansociety,allvolunteers–SalvationArmyChristians,musiciansandaVeteransAdministrationorderly–areequal.ThepublisheroftheMiamiHerald,visitingNewYork,handsouteyewashandalcoholswabs,unloadstrashbins,refillsahugecoffeeurn.

Someofdowntown’smostfamousrestaurantshavetakenastabatcookingforreliefworkers;therenownedBoulezisanassiduouspresence.ItstentlookssimilartothatoftheSalvationArmy,butthefoodismuchbetter–couscous,fettuciniandotherdelicateconfections.Boulezbecamethedesiredcelebrityreliefdestination;CandiceBergenfoundherselfobliginglymoppingthefloor.

WakeupanywheresouthofCanalStreet,andthere’sthatsickeningsmellcomingthroughthewindow,nowaroutinepartofdailylife.

AdditionalreportingbyMarkSchapiroandEdHelmo.

Thefirstanniversary

AbriefhistoryoftimeHowtheUSremembered9/11

12September2002

8.46am:AmericanAirlinesflight11,fromBoston,crashesintothenorthtoweroftheWorldTradeCenter

Whenthesilencefinallycame,itfeltlikemuchlessthanaminute–butthen,saidJoeColon,afirefighterfromtheUpperWestSide,ithadfeltlikemuchlessthanayear.“Itallwenttoofastforme,”Colonsaid.“Ayear?It’sunbelievable.”Hetookoffhisbaseballcapandhelditagainsthisheart,likemostofhiscolleaguesgatheredinachainlinkpenoverlookingGroundZero,butsomethingaboutthatmusthavefeltawkward.Momentslater,heputitbackonhishead.

“Itmighthavebeenallrightifitwasahurricaneorsomething,”hesaidsuddenly,asrespectfulmurmursofconversationbegantoresumearoundhimandbellsbegantopealacrossthecity.“Everybodyhastodie.Butlikethat?Inthatway?”

ThestreetsaroundwhatNewYorkersnowcallthePithadbeenbustlingsince5.30am,andbythetimethesunroseat6.15–onadaythatwouldproveaswarmandasbrightaslastyear,onlyhazier–thousandsofpeoplepackedthenarrowsidewalks.Clustersofpoliceofficers,apparentlyunpreparedforthenumbers,experimentedwithvaryingarrangementsofcrowdbarriers,herdingpeoplebackwardsandforwardsrepeatedly,butnobodyseemedtomind:allmorning,thesightofauniformwasthecueforapplause.

AmanwithalargewoodencrucifixonhisshouldersstrodepurposefullyupanddownChurchStreet.AtthecornerofCortlandtStreet,alleyeswereonMitchMitchell,awhite-beardedmachinistfromSouthCarolina,andthecompanionhehadbroughttothememorial:amannequinofOsamabinLadeninaglossyblackcoffinthathehadconvertedintoatrailerattachedtohismotorbike.

“Tookmethreedays.Icarveditoutofcedar,”heexplainedastwovisitingBritishpolicemenstoppedtoshakehishand.

Andthenat8.44theservicebegan,astheamplifiednasaltonesofMichaelBloombergboomedacrosstheemptyexpansefromapodiumtothewest.“Againtodayweareanationthatmourns,”themayorsaid.“Againtodaywetakeintoourheartsandmindsthosewhoperishedonthissiteoneyearago.”

Thencamethesilence,andthen,overtheetherealsoundofasolocello,RudolphGiulianiwalkeduptothemicrophoneandbegantoreadthenames.“GordonA...Aamoth,”hesaid,pausingtoconsiderhowtopronouncetheunfamiliarname,ashewouldthroughoutthereading,pickingupspeedwiththemorefamiliarones.“EdelmiroAbad.MariaRoseAbad.AndrewAnthonyAbate.VincentAbate...”

Sixtyblocksuptown,MarkLambert,amidtownofficeworker,lookedonastonishedattheemptyquietofTimesSquare.“It’sneverthisquietroundhere,”hesaid,asthebusyintersectionfellbrieflyintosilence.AsombrecrowdgatheredtowatchTVrelaysoftheceremonies,andthefamoustickertapereadsimply:“NewYorkRemembers...AmericaRemembers...TheWorldRemembers.”Anotherdisplayflashedthenamesofthedead.

AtGroundZero,arosterofbereavedrelativesandhigh-profileNewYorkers–HillaryClintonandRobertdeNiroamongthem–hadtakenovertherecitationofnames.Whenthetimecameforthesecondmomentofremembrance,theyhadonlyjuststartedontheBs.

9.03am:UnitedAirlinesflight175,alsofromBoston,crashesintothesouthtower.Bothbuildingsareaflame

Oneyearafterthesecondjethit,agustofwindscoopedupdustfromthebottomofthepitandscattereditoverthewatchingcrowds;ahandfulofpapersrosefromthemediaenclavesontopoftheWorldFinancialCenterandtheEmbassySuiteshotel.Relativesofthosewhodiedbegantheirjourneyonfootdownthelongramptothefloorofthesite,manyofthemvisitingforthefirsttime.Theypickedupdirt,pebbles,“anythingtoremindusofwhereitactuallyhappened”,

pickedupdirt,pebbles,“anythingtoremindusofwhereitactuallyhappened”,saidAnneBrennan,achildhoodfriendofavictim,BillyThompson,afterre-emergingfromthesite.

AtLaGuardiaairportinQueens,twowomenwithdyed-blondehairandmatchingstarsandstripessunglassesstoodontheconcourseoutsidetheterminal,lookingbewilderedattheabsenceofcars.

JeanCutsinger,fromWestSprings,Michigan,woreaT-shirtdecoratedwiththeAmericanflagandacalltorememberSeptember11.AfteravisittoMsRobertson’sdaughterindowntownManhattan,theirwayofrememberingtheeventsayearagowastogetonaflight.“Wedeliberatelychosetodaytoflytosupportourcountryandshowtheterroriststhatwearenotafraid,”MsCutsingersaid.

Buttheywereprettymuchalone.Ayearago,LaGuardia,themaingatewayforNewYorkerstotherestofAmerica,wasinchaos.Yesterdayitwasunnaturallycalm.Therevolvingdoorsstoodstillandthecheck-indeskswithzigzagbarrierstokeepimaginaryqueuesinlinewereempty.Cancelledflightsdottedthescreens.

At8.46,UnitedAirlineshadheldatwo-minutesilencebutitpassedunnoticed:therewasnobusinesstointerrupt.ThebriskestbusinesswasbeingdoneatSpirit,theairlinethatannounceditwouldbegivingawayflightsonSeptember11.

9.37am:AmericanAirlinesflight77followsthecourseofthePotomacRiverbeforecrashingintothePentagon

AsthesilencearrivedatthePentagon,theworld’smostpowerfulpeople–theUSpresident,hisdefencesecretaryandgenerals–stoodonahugered,whiteandbluedaisalongsidetherebuiltnorth-westfaceofthePentagon.Familiesofthe184dead,togetherwithhundredsofconstructionworkers,stillwearingtheirorangeandwhitehardhatsemblazonedwithpatriotic,defiantstickers,gazedupattheirwork–acliffofbutter-colouredlimestone.

Thenthepresidentandthedefencesecretarystooduptounfurlthegiantstars

ThenthepresidentandthedefencesecretarystooduptounfurlthegiantstarsandstripesthathadhungoverthesiteinthedaysafterAmericanAirlinesflight77hadflownafewfeetabovethePentagonlawnsandintothebuilding’sfirstfloor.

Theflagwasstillsoiledwithdustanditblewaroundinthefiercebreeze,whichflickedupintotheskyandbackontothePentagonroof.Thechainsthatweresupposedtosecureitclankednoisilythroughoutthepresident’sspeechandtheprayerreadbyRear-AdmiralBarryBlack,anavychaplainwitharesonant,tremblingvoice.

10.03am:Thesouthtowercollapses,sendingcloudsofdustanddebrisintothestreetsoflowerManhattan

Halfanhourbeforetheceremonywasduetofinishitwasclearthatthenameswouldtakefarlongertoreadthanhadbeenanticipated.TherewasfidgetingandchatterinthecrowdasRedCrossworkershandedoutbottlesofwaterandpacketsofcookies.Silencedescendedagain,briefly,forthemomentofthefirstcollapse,tobefollowedbyanotherofthereadingsfromfamilymembersofthevictimswhichpunctuatedthemorningceremony.

Butevenso,DervenScott,acarpenterfromHarlem,wassurprisedtofindtheatmosphere“almostfestive”.“Ithoughtitwouldbemuchmoreheartbreaking,butactually,youknow,thespiritisprettyhigh.Idon’thaveaproblemwiththat.Ittakesyououtofyourdespair.”

Emergingfromtherampattheothersideofthesite,though,JoanneandNicoleCiarocco,fromNewJersey,wereupsetbythewaytheyhadbeenshepherdedthroughtheircommemorationofJonPerconti,aCantorFitzgeraldworkerwhowasJoanne’snephewandNicole’scousin.“Ithoughtitwasveryunorganised,”Nicolesaid.“Theymadeusgotoaseparatearea,gaveuswristbands,butwhenwegottotheactualsiteitwasfirst-come,first-served,justlikebeingabystanderonthecorner.Therewasnoreallyspecialtribute,nobodysayinganythingnewabouttheselivesthatwerelost.Thesilencewasn’treallyamomentofsilence.Itwasacircus.”

Perhapsitwasawisedecision,then,thatmanyconnectedtothetragedychosetocommemoratethedayinprivateceremonies.AtafirehouseinEastVillage,Engine16andthefamiliesofLadderSeven–allthemembersofwhichperishedinthesouthtower–heldaquietserviceofremembrance.

LieutenantMickeyKross,oneoffewerthantwodozenfirefighterstohavesurvivedafterbeinginsideatowerwhenitcollapsed,said:“I’veonlyhadabriefsecondtothinkaboutwhatIwasdoingthatmoment.Itwasjustanaverageday.At8.48Iwasfillingoutinspectionreports.By9.03Iwasunderthesouthtowerwhenthesecondplanestruck.Iwasjustthinkingwhatabrieftimethatwas.By9.30Iwasonthe23rdfloorofthenorthtowerandhadnoideatheotheronehadcomedown.”Halfanhourlaterandthenorthtowercamedown,too,leavingKrossbrieflyentombedinthe4thfloorstairwell.

Ayearon,thecityisdifferent–atleastovertly.“We’vegotaircovernow,”Krosssaid,referringtothejetsandhelicopterswhichcircledthedowntownareaallthroughyesterday.“IfanyonehadtoldyouNewYorkwasgoingtoneedmilitaryprotectionyou’dneverhavebelievedit.”

10.06am:UnitedAirlinesflight93crashesinafieldnearShanksville,Pennsylvania

Foroneminute,ameadowonthesouthernedgeoftheAlleghenyMountainsturnedasstillandsilentasithadoncebeenayearago,beforethedoomedflightplummetedtoearth,scoopingoutacraterthesizeofahouseasitexploded.

“Thisisacemetery,”saidWallyMiller,thelocalcoroner,whospentmonthsonhishandsandkneespickinguphumanremainsandpiecesoftheBoeing757,noneofwhicharebiggerthanacoin.Itremainsaruralsceneofwoodedhillsaroundquietmeadows.Theonlysignofthetragedyisabaldspotofearthwherethecraterwas.“Interestingthatthegrasswon’tgrowrighthere,”MrMillerpointedout.

Shanksville,atinytownof245peopleroughlymidwaybetweenNewYorkandWashington,hasbecomeasceneofpilgrimageforAmericanswhoseeflightUA93asthefirstvictoryinthe“waronterror”.Thedecisionofits40passengersandcrewtofightbackhasbeenengravedintonationallegend,along

passengersandcrewtofightbackhasbeenengravedintonationallegend,alongwiththelastrecordedwordsofapassenger,ToddBeamer:“Let’sroll.”ThatpeculiarlyAmericanphrasehasbeenchiselledintostoneplaquesatthesitereferringtothedeadasthe“firstcitizenheroesofthe21stcentury”.

Afteratrumpetrequiemforthedead,acrowdofseveralthousandwalkedupahilltothefence,andstoodandwatchedasthepresident’shelicopterlandedsoonaftermiddayandMrBushlaidawreathatthesceneoftheimpact.

10.29am:Thenorthtowercollapses

Withhundredsofnamesstilltoberead,andthesunnowhighinthesky,NewYork’sgovernor,GeorgePataki,tookthepodiumtoreadtheGettysburgAddress.Somehadcriticisedthedecisiontousearecycledspeech,butitsmilitaristictone–“Nowweareengagedinagreatcivilwar...Wearemetonagreatbattlefieldofthatwar”–spoketoanangersomespectatorscertainlyfelt.

“SureI’mangry,”saidGregPacker,amachineworker.“Thissendsamessage.There’sbeenalotofcontroversyabouthowtheWorldTradeattackhasbeenturnedintonothingbutaspectacle.Thisisdifferent.”

AdifferentatmosphereprevailedatthepromenadeinBrooklynHeights,nestledundertheBrooklynBridge.ItwasfromtherethatmanyNewYorkerswatchedasthehorrorunravelledacrosstheriver,andsomehadchosentoreturntothespotyesterday.

BenRamos,aretired59-year-oldfromStatenIsland,hadpulledoffthehighwayforabriefmomentofreflection.Buthewasfarfromcalm.“FromSeptember12wegottogetmad.There’snouseinalltheseNewYorkerswalkingaroundwithflowers.Wegottogooutthereandkickass.WewanttokicktheTaliban’sassandIraq’sasstomakethingsalittlemorepeacefulforourkidsinthefuture.”

Buttherewasalsoangerinadifferentdirection.OnePakistani-AmericanwhoaskednotbenamedsaidmanyMuslimshaddecidedtostayathomeduringtheanniversaryforfearofreprisals.“PresidentBushismakingwarwithareligion,”hesaid.“Iamheretryingtobuildalifeformyfamilyandeveryoneislookingat

uswithhate.”

Itwaswellafter11ambythetimethenameofIgorZukelman,a29-year-oldemployeeofFiduciaryTrust,echoedthroughthesoundsystem.Afteradelayedopening,theNewYorkStockExchangehelditsownceremonyatmidday.Thepodiumwasspillingoverwithdignitaries,BloombergandGiulianiamongthem.

Theexchangeheldatwo-minutesilenceforthepeoplelostayearago,morefromthefinancialindustrythananyother.ButNewYorkwasalreadymovingon.Thesilencewasbroken,repeatedly,bythetrillingofmobilephones.Therewasworktobedone.

Foreveryvictim,apetalfallslikerainVictims’relativesamongcongregationatcommemorationserviceinStPaul’sCathedral

StephenBates,12September2002

Fromadistance,thewhiterosepetalsfallingontothealtarofStPaul’sCathedralduringyesterday’scommemorationserviceforthevictimsoftheterroristattacksontheUSwerecompletelysilent.

Tossedfromthegalleryofthegreatdomebyacoupleofworkmeninjeansontotheheadsfarbelow,the3,000petals–oneforeachvictim–lookedlikesnowflakes.Onlythosecloseenoughinthecathedralyesterdaycouldhearthepatterofthefallingpetals,soundinglikerain,saidone.

Amongtheplacestheyfellwasontoalarge,tatteredunionflagdrapedoverthealtar.ItwasrecoveredfromtheNewJerseylandfillsitetowhichamilliontonnesofdebrisfromthetwintowerswascartedlastautumn,andwasreturnedyesterday.Nooneknowswhosetheflagwasorwhatitwasdoinginthewreckage.

LieutenantFrankDwyeroftheNewYorkpolicedepartment,whoayearagosawthetwintowersonfireashedrovetoworkandwatchedthemfall,was

sawthetwintowersonfireashedrovetoworkandwatchedthemfall,wasgivenresponsibilityforhandingovertheflag.

“IwasjustverypleasedthatwewereabletobringtheflagbacktothepeopleoftheUnitedKingdom.Byrightitbelongshere,”hesaid.“It’sstillfullofdustandthereareholesinit,butitcouldbedrapedanditcouldbeflown.”

Ifthegriefthatfilledthecathedralandits2,000-strongcongregation,manyofthemAmerican,yesterdaywaslessrawthanattheserviceheldinthesameplacethreedaysafterlastyear’sattacks,itwasstillpalpableanddesolate.Theatmospherewasheavywithemotion.

Thehour-longservicewasattendedbyTonyBlairandotherministersandoppositionpoliticians,bytheUSambassador,WilliamFarish,embassystaff,expatriatesandaphalanxofcrew-cut,gold-braidedUSservicemeninuniform.

Faithleaders–ChristianandMuslim,JewsandSikhs–werealsothereaswasthePrinceofWales,lookingdistraughtaseveratsuchceremonies,andhisyoungersonPrinceHarry,18nextweekend,followinghisfatheratarespectfuldistance,lookingdutiful.

Andtherewerealsomanyrelativesofthe67BritishvictimskilledintheWorldTradeCenterattack.

TheyhadaskedforaserviceaslongagoaslastChristmasandhelpedtodeviseitscontents.

TheyheardCanonPhilipBucklerpronounce:“Wecometocommemorateinnocentlivescutshortbythedevastationofthatdayandtolightacandleofhopetohonourtheirmemory.Wecomeaspeoplefrommanybackgroundsandtraditionsoffaithtoprayforthefuturesecurityofourworld,foraspiritoftoleranceandmutualrespect,forpeaceandfreedom,forjusticeandtheruleoflaw;thattogetherwemightgoforwardwithconfidenceandhope.”

AndtheyheardRichardChartres,bishopofLondon,sayvehementlyinhisaddress:“Thereisnotashredofjustificationfortheatrocity,andjusticedemandsanunrelentingpursuitofthosewhowereresponsible.Thosewholivecomfortablelivesaredisposedtothinkthatnobodyreallymeanstobemean.9/11broughtusfacetofacewiththerealityofevil.”

9/11broughtusfacetofacewiththerealityofevil.”

Butheaddedthatwisdomandlovealsodemandedthatjustasmuchenergyandresourcesshouldbeassembledtocombatavoidableevilssuchaspoverty,violence,evenAids,asthatdeployedinmilitaryactionagainstterror.

Then,at1.46pm,themomentayearpreviouslythatthefirstplanehittheWorldTradeCenter,thecathedralfellintoaprofoundsilence,brokenonlybythedistantanguishedcriesofababy,presumablyarelativeofoneofthosekilled,certainlytooyoungtorememberortomourn.

LtDwyermovedforwardtolightacandle.OtherswerelitduringtheservicebyAlexandraClarkeoftheUKfamiliessupportgroupandbythenon-Christianreligiousleaders.

Outsideafterwards,LtDwyersaid:“Therewasagreatdealofemotionallround.Iwantedtosayhowsorrywearethattherelativeshavelostlovedones.WehavecomeheretodaytothankeveryoneforallthehelpandsupporttheUKhasgivenus.”

Amongmanysmallgestures,onestoodout.WhenCanonStephenOliver,precentorofthecathedral,wenttoCoventGardenflowermarketat4amonTuesdaytobuybucketfulsofroses,thetraders,bemusedtoseeaclergymanupsoearlytopurchasesomany,askedhimwhathewasbuyingthemfor.Whentheyheard,theyclubbedtogetherandpaidfortherosesthemselves.

Yesterdayaftertheservice,childrenwhowererelativesofthedeceasedwentuptothealtartocollectsomeofthefallenpetals.Therestweresweptawaybycathedralstaff.

‘Wewillnotrelentuntiljusticeisdone’GeorgeBushlastnightaddressedAmericafromNewYork’sEllisIsland.Hereisthefulltextofhisspeech

12September2002

Goodevening.

Alongyearhaspassedsinceenemiesattackedourcountry.Wehaveseentheimagessomanytimestheyaresearedonoursouls,andrememberingthehorror,relivingtheanguish,reimaginingtheterror,ishard–andpainful.

Forthosewholostlovedones,ithasbeenayearofsorrow,ofemptyplaces,ofnewbornchildrenwhowillneverknowtheirfathershereonearth.Formembersofourmilitary,ithasbeenayearofsacrifice,andservicefarfromhome.ForallAmericans,ithasbeenayearofadjustment–ofcomingtotermswiththedifficultknowledgethatournationhasdeterminedenemies,andthatwearenotinvulnerabletotheirattacks.

Yetintheeventsthathavechallengedus,wehavealsoseenthecharacterthatwilldeliverus.WehaveseenthegreatnessofAmericainairlinepassengerswhodefiedtheirhijackersandranaplaneintothegroundtosparethelivesofothers.WehaveseenthegreatnessofAmericainrescuerswhorushedupflightsofstairstowardperil.AndwecontinuetoseethegreatnessofAmericainthecareandcompassionourcitizensshowtoeachother.

September112001willalwaysbeafixedpointinthelifeofAmerica.Thelossofsomanylivesleftustoexamineourown.Eachofuswasremindedthatwearehereonlyforatime,andthesecounteddaysshouldbefilledwiththingsthatlastandmatter:loveforourfamilies,loveforourneighbours,andforourcountry;gratitudeforlifeandtothegiveroflife.Weresolvedayearagotohonoureverylastpersonlost.Weowethemremembrance,andweowethemmore.Weowethem,andtheirchildren,andourown,themostenduringmonumentwecanbuild:AworldoflibertyandsecuritymadepossiblebythewayAmericaleads,andbythewayAmericansleadourlives.

Theattackonournationwasalsoanattackontheidealsthatmakeusanation.Ourdeepestnationalconvictionisthateverylifeisprecious,becauseeverylifeisthegiftofacreatorwhointendedustoliveinlibertyandequality.Morethananythingelse,thisseparatesusfromtheenemywefight.Wevalueeverylife;ourenemiesvaluenone–noteventheinnocent;noteventheirown.Andweseekthefreedomandopportunitythatgivemeaningandvaluetolife.

seekthefreedomandopportunitythatgivemeaningandvaluetolife.

Thereisalineinourtime,andineverytime,betweenthosewhobelievethatallmenarecreatedequal,andthosewhobelievethatsomemen,andwomen,andchildren,areexpendableinthepursuitofpower.Thereisalineinourtime,andineverytime,betweenthedefendersofhumanliberty,andthosewhoseektomasterthemindsandsoulsofothers.Ourgenerationhasnowheardhistory’scall,andwewillanswerit.

Americahasenteredagreatstrugglethattestsourstrength,andevenmoreourresolve.Ournationispatientandsteadfast.Wecontinuetopursuetheterroristsincitiesandcampsandcavesacrosstheearth.Wearejoinedbyagreatcoalitionofnationstoridtheworldofterror.Andwewillnotallowanyterroristortyranttothreatencivilizationwithweaponsofmassmurder.Nowandinthefuture,Americanswillliveasfreepeople,notinfear,andneveratthemercyofanyforeignplotorpower.

Thisnationhasdefeatedtyrantsandliberateddeathcamps,raisedthislampoflibertytoeverycaptiveland.Wehavenointentionofignoringorappeasinghistory’slatestgangoffanaticstryingtomurdertheirwaytopower.Theyarediscovering,asothersbeforethem,theresolveofagreatcountryandagreatdemocracy.Intheruinsoftwotowers,underaflagunfurledatthePentagon,atthefuneralsofthelost,wehavemadeasacredpromise,toourselvesandtotheworld:Wewillnotrelentuntiljusticeisdoneandournationissecure.Whatourenemieshavebegun,wewillfinish.

Ibelievethereisareasonthathistoryhasmatchedthisnationwiththistime.Americastrivestobetolerantandjust.WerespectthefaithofIslam,evenaswefightthosewhoseactionsdefilethatfaith.Wefight,nottoimposeourwill,buttodefendourselvesandextendtheblessingsoffreedom.

Wecannotknowallthatliesahead.YetwedoknowthatGodhasplacedustogetherinthismoment,togrievetogether,tostandtogether,toserveeachotherandourcountry.Andthedutywehavebeengiven–defendingAmericaandourfreedom–isalsoaprivilegeweshare.

Wearepreparedforthisjourney.AndourprayertonightisthatGodwillseeusthrough,andkeepusworthy.TomorrowisSeptemberthe12th.Amilestone

ispassed,andamissiongoeson.Beconfident.Ourcountryisstrong.Andourcauseisevenlargerthanourcountry.Oursisthecauseofhumandignity:freedomguidedbyconscience,andguardedbypeace.ThisidealofAmericaisthehopeofallmankind.Thathopedrewmillionstothisharbour.Thathopestilllightsourway.Andthelightshinesinthedarkness.Andthedarknesswillnotovercomeit.

MayGodblessAmerica.

Reorganisingthegovernment

USwrapsupinhomelandsecurityblanketAmerica’swaronterrorismhasacquireditsownministry.Butwillitmakethecountryanysafer?

MatthewEngel,25January2003

TheUnitedStatestookanotherstepyesterdaytowardsremakingitselfasacountrysubsumedinanever-endingwaronterrorism.InabriefceremonyattheWhiteHouse,withPresidentBushlookingon,Vice-PresidentDickCheneysworeinTomRidgeasthecountry’sfirstsecretaryofhomelandsecurity.

ThiswastheformalconfirmationofthebiggestreorganisationinWashingtonsincethePentagonwascreatedtobringtogethertheoldwarandnavydepartments56yearsago.

MrRidgedidhisbesttolookhisusualcheerfulselfyesterday.Butifhetrulyfeelscheerful,hemaynothaveassessedhissituationproperly.

TheworstthatcanhappenisthattheUSsuffersanothermajorterroristattackathome,inwhichcaseMrRidge–havingbeendefactoinchargeofdefendingthehomelandfor15months–iscertaintogetalargechunkoftheblame.

Thebestcasescenarioinvolvesnofurtherattacks,whichwillmeanthenewdepartmentwillslideintoirrelevance,itsfundingperpetuallyvulnerabletotheWhiteHousebudgetofficeandCapitolHill.Eveninthecurrentatmosphereofextremetension,homelandsecurityhasalreadylostout.

MrRidgeisalreadybeingidentifiedasapotentialtargetbyleadingDemocraticpoliticians.SenatorHillaryClintonsaidyesterdaythatAmericanvigilancehad“fadedatthetop”sinceSeptember11.

“Wehavereliedonamythofhomelandsecurity–amythwritteninrhetoric,inadequateresourcesandanewbureaucracy–insteadofrelyingongood,old-fashionedAmericaningenuity,mightandmuscle,”sheadded.

Amoretellingfactisthatinthehistoryoftherepublic,onlyonejobhasevercompletelydisappearedfromthecabinet:theofficeofpostmaster-general.

Thephrase“homelandsecurity”maybehereforever.Somayitsfinancialandbureaucraticfrustrations.

ThreemonthsagoacommissionledbytheformersenatorsWarrenRudmanandGaryHart,whoarenowseenasvisionariesforpredictingtheterroristattack,identifiedanumberofareastheysaidneededurgentattention.

Theseincludedimprovingsecurityatportsandlandborders,preparingemergencyworkersforachemicalorbiologicalattackandgivingthepoliceaccesstoterroristwatchlists.Analystssaythatthereisstillalmostnomovementinthoseareas.

MitchDaniels,thepresident’sbudgetchief,said:“Wewillspendwhatittakes.”Butthereisgrowingscepticismabouttherealityofthisinasituationwheretheunusualdualobjectivesoftaxcutsandwarhavebecomethetoppriorities.

“Wearenotputtingfundingwhereitneedstogo,”saidRobKanakeofthethink-tanktheCouncilonForeignRelations.“Theonlyelementsofhomelandsecuritythathavereceivedproperfundsarethedefencedepartmentelements.Theindicationsarethatwhenthe2004budgetcomesout,therewillbealotofsmokeandmirrors.”

Ineffect,theproblemforMrRidgeisnotthewaronterrorismbuttheonethathasbeengoingoninWashingtonsincethefederalsystemwasdevised:thewarforbureaucraticturf.Hewassentintosolvethisproblembyknockingheadstogether.Hemayendupbeingacasualtyhimself.

Asthingsstand,hewillhaveastaffofonly100orso,whoareshortlytomoveintoanunderused,landlockednavalbaseintheWashingtonsuburbs,severalmilesfromtheheartlandofgovernment.

Bytheautumn,hewillhave170,000employeesunderhissupposedcontrol,includingthesecretservice,customs,immigrationandthetransportationsecurityagency,whichhasnowtakenoveraffairsatUSairportsfromthe

hotchpotchofoftenincompetentandsometimessuspectcontractorswhowerepreviouslyincharge.

However,MrRidgewillhavenocontroloverthemasterfulbureaucraticinfightersattheFBIorCIA,andcertainlynoneoverDonaldRumsfeld’sempireatthePentagon,ortheindividualstateandlocalauthorities.

YetitistheinabilityoftheUS’svastarrayofdifferentsecurityandpolicingagenciestotalktooneanother–becauseoflegalconstraints,technicalfailingsandancienthabits–thatitisthebiggestproblemhefaces.

MrRidge’sformalappointmentbringsthenumberofcabinetmembersto15,thefirstincreasesincethemoremanageabledepartmentofveterans’affairswascreatedin1989.

Technically,hewillberankedatthebottomofthecabinet’shierarchy.

Rightsandwrongs

AFP/GettyImages

TheGuantánamoeffectHowGeorgeBushrewrotetherulesofwar

SuzanneGoldenbergandEwenMacAskill,17January2009

Tomuchoftheworld,thebiggestsinglesymbolofGeorgeBush’sexcessesinthefightagainstal-QaidaisGuantánamo:theoffshoredetentioncenterthatsoughttorewritetherulesofwar.

Sincethefirstflightof20hoodedandshackledprisonersarrivedattheUSnavalbaseon11January2002,Guantánamocreatedanewlexiconofwarandthetreatmentofprisoners:enemycombatants,rendition,blacksites,ghostdetaineesandwaterboarding.

Theindefinitedetentions,andthesteadyaccumulationofevidenceoftortureandreligiousandsexualhumiliation–authorisedinWhiteHouseandotherofficialmemos–turnedGuantánamointoafesteringsoreinAmerica’srelationswiththeMuslimworld.

SodidrevelationsthattheCIAhadsecretlykidnappeddozensofpeopleonEuropeansoilandflownthemtocountriessuchasEgypt,Jordan,MoroccoandUzbekistanforinterrogation.So-calledghostdetaineeswerealsoflowntosomeoftheCIA’sownsecretprisons,orblacksites,ineasternEuropeancountries.

Someofthehigh-valuedetaineessuchasKhalidSheikhMohammed,themastermindofthe9/11attacks,weresubjectedtosimulateddrowningorwaterboarding,itlateremerged.

“GuantánamounderminedAmerica’smoralauthorityaroundtheworld,”saidJenniferDaskalofHumanRightsWatch.

Athome,Guantánamospawnedadoggedlegalfighttoidentifyandestablishlegalrightsforthenamelessprisonersheldatthecamp,mostofwhomhadbeencapturedbytribalwarlordsinAfghanistanandPakistanandhandedovertotheUS.

Itturnedintoalosingstrugglefortheadministration,withanumberofsupremecourtverdictsoverturningthelegalbasisofthecamp.

“[Ithasn’t]achievedanythingintermsofgoals,”saidVijayPadmanabhan,aformerstatedepartmentlegaladviseronGuantánamoandotherdetaineeissues.HesaidthatCondoleezzaRicehadbeeninfavourofclosingthedetentioncampsince2005.

GuantánamowasthemostvisibleofthemeasuresputinplacebyBushintheaftermathofthe9/11attacks.Theadministrationalsoestablishedthedepartmentofhomelandsecurity,reformedtheintelligenceservicestoimproveco-ordinationbetweenmorethanadozenagencies,andintroduceddomesticwiretappingandothersurveillancetechniques.

Bushauthorisedthenationalsecurityagencytomonitordomesticphonecallsandemailsoonafterthe2001attacks.Theprogrammedidnotbecomeamatterofpublicknowledgeuntillate2005.

ScrutinyofinternationalarrivalstotheUSismuchtoughertoo:the199/11attackersflewintotheUSwithaneasethatwouldbenear-impossibletoday.

PeterBergen,aWashington-basedauthoroftwobooksonal-QaidaandoneofthefewwesternerstohaveinterviewedOsamabinLaden,said:“PresidentBushhasoftenattributedtheabsenceofanal-QaidaattackontheUStotheIraqwar,whichsupposedlydivertedtheattentionofjihadistterrorists.BettertofighttheminIraqthantheUS,sotheargumentgoes.”

ButBergensaidtherealreasonsweremorebasic,includingthat“theAmericanMuslimcommunityhadrejectedal-Qaida’sideology”and“signedupfortheAmericanDream,enjoyinghigherincomesandeducationallevelsthantheaverage”.

The‘mosque’controversy

BarackObamadefendsplansforGroundZeromosqueRelativesof9/11victimsaccusepresidentof‘abandoningAmerica’oversupportforIslamicculturalcenter

DavidBattyandagencies,14August2010

TheUSpresident,BarackObama,hasdefendedcontroversialplanstobuildamosquenearthesiteofthe9/11terroristattacksinNewYork,sayingtoopposethemwouldbeun-American.

ProminentRepublicanshaveledprotestsagainsttheconstructionofanIslamicculturalcenterandmosquetwoblocksfromthesiteoftheformerWorldTradeCenter.TheproposedbuildingwouldnotbevisiblefromGroundZero.

Obamaacknowledgedthat“sensitivities”surroundedthe9/11site,whichhedescribedas“hallowedground”,buthesaidMuslimshadthesamerighttopractisetheirreligion“asanyoneelse”.

InaspeechataWhiteHousedinnercelebratingRamadan,hesaid:“Asacitizen,andaspresident,IbelievethatMuslimshavethesamerighttopractisetheirreligionaseveryoneelseinthiscountry.ThatincludestherighttobuildaplaceofworshipandacommunitycenteronprivatepropertyinlowerManhattan,inaccordancewithlocallawsandordinances.ThisisAmerica,andourcommitmenttoreligiousfreedommustbeunshakeable.”

TheWhiteHousehasnotpreviouslytakenastandonthemosque.Itspresssecretary,RobertGibbs,hasdescribedtheissueasalocalmatter.

RepublicansincludingSarahPalin,theformervice-presidentialcandidate,andNewtGingrich,theRepublicanformerspeakeroftheHouseofRepresentatives,havebeenvocalopponentsofthescheme,describingitasaninsulttothememoryofthosekilledbyIslamistterroristsinthe2001attacks.

Thepresident’ssupportforthemosquewaswelcomedbyNewYorkCity’smayor,MichaelBloomberg,whodescribedObama’sspeechasa“clarion

defenceofthefreedomofreligion”.

Butsomerelativesofthevictimsofthe9/11attackswerequicktocondemnthepresident.

“BarackObamahasabandonedAmericaattheplacewhereAmerica’sheartwasbrokennineyearsago,andwherehertruevalueswereondisplayforalltosee,”saidDebraBurlingame,aspokeswomanforsomevictims’familiesandthesisterofoneofthepilotskilledintheattacks.

Buildingthemosquewas“adeliberatelyprovocativeactthatwillprecipitatemorebloodshedinthenameofAllah,”shesaid.

RepublicanrepresentativePeterKingofNewYorkadded:“PresidentObamaiswrong.ItisinsensitiveanduncaringfortheMuslimcommunitytobuildamosqueintheshadowofGroundZero.”

WhileObama’sdefenceofthemosquemighthelphimreachouttotheMuslimworld,itisunlikelytoplaywellathome.ACNNpollthisweekfoundthatnearly70%ofAmericansopposedthemosqueplan,whilejust29%approved.

9/11meanttheendofsummerIlostmydaughteratGroundZero.HereiswhyIbacktheproposedMuslimcenter

DonnaMarshO’Connor,11September2010

Iamexhausted,notjustemotionallybutphysically.InthelastfewdaysIhavespokentojournalistsinmanynationsbecausetheywanttotalkabout“themosque”.Fortwoweekseverydaywasplannedaroundinterviews.Phoneinterviews,Skypeinterviews,televisioninterviews.Andthejournalists,almosttoaperson,areallconcernedwiththeaccoutrementsofthescenario:“Canyougettoastudiobecauseweneedthesoundqualitytomeetourstandards?CanyoucometoastudioinNewYorkCitybecauseSkypedoesn’tworkforus?Do

youcometoastudioinNewYorkCitybecauseSkypedoesn’tworkforus?Doyouhaveadifferentcolouredshirt?Thatonedoesfunkythingsoncamera.Makeup?Microphonespositionedinjusttherightway.CanIfollowyouintothestreetandpretendIamhappeninginonyourlife?IneedanexteriorshotsoIwillfollowyou.”ButIcannotpretend,whenIamwalkinginManhattanwiththemostsombreofstoriestotell,thatIamfinewiththeencodedlie–thisisallnatural.Thisiswhatthesadwomanlookslikewhenshewalks.BecauseIamnotsadeverydayofmylifeanymore.

Andinevitably,duringeachandeveryinterview,Ianswerthesamequestions,tellthesamestory.MydaughterVanessadied.Shewasfourmonthspregnant.IsupportthebuildingofthemosqueatGroundZero.Isupportit100%and1)Iamnotcrazy,2)Iamnotimmunetothepainofother9/11families,and3)Ilovemydaughterandmisshermorewitheachpassingday.And,too,becauseIknowhowtoreachmyaudience,thereisthatmomentwhenIsurpriseevenmyself.

ItwasonthatdaythatthelargestcriminalactinAmerica’sshorthistoryoccurred.Weareayoungcountryandwefelt,beforethatday,invulnerable,impenetrableandproud.Mostofuslivedinalandofplenty.Wewereafreepeople,anentitledpeople.Andatthebeginningofthemostgloriousofdays,crispandclearandeverythingalatesummerdaymightbewhenwecallitglorious,fourofourcommercialjetspenetratedoneofourlargestcitiesand(andweshouldn’tdismissthemetaphoricimportanceofwhatthismeant)ourPentagon,too.Forthefirsttimeinourhistory,wewereunderanattackwagedagainstcivilians,takingoutaswellournotionsofourprotections.

Attheendofthatmorningtheheightofgloryturnedtothreescenesthatwerenotlikehellonearth.GroundZero,asithascometobecalled,lookedlikenothingIcouldeverhaveimaginedinmyimaginingsofhell.Iremembertheblackmoundsofearthandrubble,firesstillburningamonthlaterinmultipleplaces,thesmellofmeltedfleshmingledwithfuelandeverythingthatcouldpossiblyburnandallofthisframedbytheprotrudingblackgothicspearsofsteel.Andmybabygirlsomewhereinthepileofitall.

Irememberthinking,asIlookeduponitforthefirsttime,thatGodandthedevilwerebothcryingatthehorroronlymencouldmake.

devilwerebothcryingatthehorroronlymencouldmake.

Soisit,shoulditbe,clearwhyafternineyearswearestillscared?Whywearestillsensitive?Notonly9/11families,aswehavecometobecalled,butallofuswhoshareinthe“whatwelostthatday”9/11experience.

Fornineyearstoowehavelivedwiththeexploitationofourcollectivefearsbyourpoliticalleadersorpoliticalwannabesandbymediaoutlets.9/11familieshavebeenusedtoforwardpoliticalgoalsonallsides.Wewenttowarwithacountrythatneverattackedus,neverposedanyrealthreattous,becausewefearedtheMuslimpeople.Perhapsourleadershadotheragendas,buttotheAmericanpopulace,SaddamHussein(hideousadictatorashewas)didnotattackAmerica,butwasametaphoricstand-inforOsamabinLaden(thefigureintheshadowswhowedidnot,couldnotcapture).ThereisonlyonereasonthatthesubstitutionofonemanforanothercouldworkinthecollectiveAmericanconsciousness–bigotrylivesinus.Itsmechanismsarealwaysthere,mosttimesincheck,butattimesofheightenedinsecuritiestheycancometofullflower.

SoIamexhausted,becausetoexplainwhyIsupportthemosque(it’snotamosque,it’saculturalcenter)atGroundZero(it’snotatGroundZero,it’stwoblocksandaroundthecornerfromGroundZero),IhavetoexplainwhoIamasamother,asahumanbeingand,inthesesodifficulttimes,anAmerican.Andbelieveme,Ilovemycountry.

HereisthereasonIsupportwhateverPark51willbe(amosque,aculturalcenter,itdoesn’tmattertome):America’spromisestohercitizensarelife,libertiesandthepursuitsofhappiness,ourfreedomsguaranteedbyourlawsandourconstitutionandthoselawsandprinciplesmustapplytooneandall.Therecanbenoaddress,noplacewherethisisnotonlyguaranteedbylawbutvaluedbyus,theAmericanpeople.

Wecannotaffordtolosethisargument.Icannotaffordtoallowmycountrytoperishintheasheswithmybabygirl.Ilostmydaughter.Mysonslostabelovedsister.Idon’twanttobringtotheforeourcollectivepainsbecauseIdon’twantanyone’spity.Butonthatmorning,too,Ilostthebestofmynation.Iwillcontinuetohonourherinorderthatshemaystayalive.

InthehardinterviewsIhavegiveninthelastfewdays,Iwenttoodeeplyinto

InthehardinterviewsIhavegiveninthelastfewdays,Iwenttoodeeplyintothefierceburningpileofwhatwaslosttomepersonally,andIcriedwaytoomuch.Aswewerewalkingfromhercartotheplacewherewewouldendthedaywithameal,mysisterRobinsaid:“It’scoldoutandIdon’twantsummertobeover.”

“It’snotover,”Itoldherbyinstinct,becauseIdon’twanttoletitgoeither.“It’sjustlatesummer.”It’sSeptember.AndlikeeverySeptember,aroundthe11th,Irememberthatnineyearsagothemeaningofsummerchangedforustoo.

Deathofaterrorist

OsamabinLaden’sdeath:reactionfromNewYorkCrowdsflocktoGroundZeroandTimesSquaretocelebrate

PaulHarris,2May2011

InNewYork’sbars,whereaTVinthecornerisasmuchpartofthefurnitureasajukebox,thenewscausedacity-wideoutbreakofcheersandshouts.

AsthenewsheadlinesannouncingthedeathofterroristmastermindOsamaBinLadenscrawledalongthebottomofthescreenscustomersenjoyingalateSundaydrinkindulgedinanunexpectedcelebration.

“Everybodyinthebarcheeredwhenthenewscameon,”saidstudentBrianChan,23,whohadbeendrinkingattheVBarintheEastVillageneighbourhood.“ThemusicstoppedandeveryonestartedwatchingtheTV.”

Forthelocalbarman,JackBarley,32,itpromptedthoughtsofaclosefriendwhohadgivenuphisjobinfinanceaftertheterroristattacksof9/11andendedupasaGreenBeretintheUSspecialforcesbutwaspostedtoIraq,notAfghanistan.“After10yearsitfeelswehavebeenwaitingforthismoment,”Barleysaid.Certainlyoneofhiscustomershad,whoburstintotearsatthenewsandthenfledthebar.

Theman’sfriendswentontoexplainthathehadlostseveralpeopleclosetohimintheterrorattack.“Ican’timaginewhathefelt.Theysaidhehadlostabout10friendsthatdayandhadbeenwaitingalltheseyearsforthismoment,”saidBarley.

ElsewhereinthecitycrowdsofpeopleflockedtoGroundZeroinlowerManhattan.Manyofthemcarriedflagsandchanted“USA!USA!”andsangtheAmericannationalanthemandGodBlessAmerica.Somecarriedcandlesandmilledaroundthesceneinsilence,butothersindulgedinanimpromptuparty,effectivelyturningwhatisusuallyaverysombreplaceintooneofcelebration.

By1amseveralhundredpeoplehadarrivedintheneighbourhood,whichis

By1amseveralhundredpeoplehadarrivedintheneighbourhood,whichisnowahugebuildingsitewheretheofficecomplexthatwillreplacetheWorldTradeCenterisbeingbuilt.ManyofthemwereinterviewedbythecablenewsTVcrewswhoalsodescendedonthesite.

“Ineverthoughtthisnightwouldhappen,thatwewouldkillorcaptureBinLaden.IthanktheLordthathehasbeeneliminated,”saidBobGibson,aretiredNewYorkcitypolicemanwholostcolleaguesintheattack.

Cityofficialswelcomedthenewsandissuedstatements.“NewYorkershavewaitednearly10yearsforthisnews.ItismyhopethatitwillbringsomeclosureandcomforttoallthosewholostlovedonesonSeptember112001,”saidmayorMikeBloomberg.

Thatcertainlyseemedtobethecaseforsomerelativesofthevictimsthoughrepresentativesstressedtheircontinuedfeelingofloss.“Thisisimportantnewsforus,andfortheworld.Itcannoteaseourpain,orbringbackourlovedones,”saidGordonFelt,presidentofFamiliesofFlight93,namedforthehijackedplanethatcrashedinPennsylvania.

“ItdoesbringameasureofcomfortthatthemastermindoftheSeptember11thtragedyandthefaceofglobalterrorcannolongerspreadhisevil,”addedFelt,whosebrotherdiedonthecrashedplane.

ManyordinaryNewYorkerssaidthatthemomenthadahistoricfeeling.ButtheyalsostruckanoteofscepticismthatthekillingofBinLadenwouldalterthings.“Iimagineal-QaidawilluseittorecruitpeopleandIimaginewewillsaythatit’sagreatvictoryandthenintheenditwillallstaythesame,”saidBarley.Othersfeltthenewswouldatleastprovideamuchneededboost.MusicianDaveArchersaidthatthenewswouldprovideavitalfilliptoanationstillstrugglinginthefaceofeconomichardtimes.“Itisgoodnews.Itissomethingthatpeoplereallyneedtohearatthemoment.WhenitcameontheTVIwaspsyched.Itmademefeelgood,”hesaid.ArcherhadbeenacrosstheHudsoninNewJerseywhentheterrorattackshadhappened.“Icouldsmellit.Thatsmelllastedforalongtime,”hesaid.

CrowdsofpeoplealsoflockedtoManhattan’siconicTimesSquarewherenewsofthedeathofBinLadenwascarriedonsomeofthegiantneonscreens

thatlinenearbybuildings.TheytoowavedUSflags,sang,cheeredandtookphotographsofthesceneinanareathatonlyafewdaysagohadhostedawatchingpartyfortheBritishroyalweddingandwasnowholdingacelebrationforthedeathofaterroristchief.

Tenyearson

EPA

9/11widowsshunspotlightas10thanniversaryapproachesThe‘JerseyGirls’,whofoughtforacredibleinquiryintotheattacksof11September,havemovedonwiththeirlives

PaulHarris,10July2011

Ofthemanyfacesandnamestoemergeaftertheterroristattacksof11September2001,fewweremoreevocativetoAmericansthanthe“JerseyGirls”.

TheywerefourwomenfromNewJerseywhosehusbandswerekilledinthetragedyandwentontocampaignforanationalcommissionofinquiryintotheattacks.IneventuallywinningtheirbattletobeheardinWashington,thefourtransformedthemselvesintopowerfulrepresentativesofthe9/11victims.Butnow,asAmericagearsupfortheemotional10thanniversaryoftheattacks,theJerseygirlsseemtohaveembracednewlivesoutofthemediaspotlight.Theywillbekeepingtheirgriefprivate.

“Iamnolongerdefiningmylifeasawidow.IfeellikeIamnotgoingtoletmyselfbedefinedbywhathappenedtomeon9/11.It’shealthierforme.Myhusbandhasgoneandhe’snotcomingback,”KristenBreitweiser,40,toldtheObserverinaninterview.Breitweisersaidthatshewouldspendthecominganniversarywithher12-year-olddaughter.“Wewilltakeanicewalkonthebeach,”shesaid.

ThosesentimentswereechoedbyfellowJerseygirlLorieVanAuken,56,whowillspendthedaywatchingherdaughterappearinaNewYorkshow.“Lifegoeson,”shesaid.

Foralongtime,theJerseygirlswereamongthemostoutspokenpeopleontheattacks.Eachhadlostahusbandinthemostawfulcircumstances.VanAuken’sspouse,Kenneth,wasabondtraderatCantorFitzgeraldandcalledhiswifetotellherhelovedherafteranaircrafthit.

Breitweiser’shusband,Ronald,wasaseniorvice-presidentforFiduciaryTrustInternational.Investigatorsfoundhisweddingringinthesmoulderingruinsof

International.InvestigatorsfoundhisweddingringinthesmoulderingruinsoftheWorldTradeCenterbutnotmuchelse.PattyCasazza’shusband,John,alsoworkedatCantorandwasjust38whenhedied.ThefinalmemberofthequartetwasMindyKleinberg,whosespouse,Alan,wasanotherCantorworker.

Thefourbandedtogetherand,inthefaceofofficialintransigence,campaignedwithothervictims’relativestosetupthe9/11commission.

Theylaterpressuredittoconductacredibleinvestigation.ThefourwomenendedupconfrontingpeoplesuchasformersecretaryofstateHenryKissinger(brieflythefirstcommissionchairman)andactingasasortofwatchdogontheprocessasitprobedtheeventthattookthelivesoftheirhusbands.TomKean,theNewJerseypoliticianputinchargeofthecommission,oncesaid:“Idoubtverymuchifwewouldbeinexistencewithoutthem.”

Lookingback,however,bothBreitweiserandVanAukenbelievetheirhugebattletogetthecommissionupandrunninglefttoomuchundone.Afterfightingsohardtogetitsetup,theybecamesomeofitsfiercestcritics.VanAukenhasspokenoftoomanyquestionsgoingunanswered,toomanyredactionsinthefinal2004reportanditsreluctancetobetoocriticalofseniorgovernmentfigures.Thathasledsomecriticstosaysheflirtswithconspiracytheories,butsheinsiststhatshejustwantsthetruth.“Itisjustunansweredquestions,”shesaid.

BreitweiseralsobelievestheirworktocampaignformoreopennessandbettersecuritytacticsindefendingtheUSagainstfutureterrorismhasfailed.ShefullyexpectsanotherterrorattackonAmericansoilinthefuture.“Iamsurewearegoingtogetanotherterroristattack.Thatwillbehorribleforthepeoplewhowillthenexperiencewhatwedid.Wedidwhatwedidwiththecommissionsoastoavoidpeopleeverwalkinginourshoesagain,”shesaid.

BreitweisersaidshehadlostallfaithinAmerica’spoliticalsystem,believingittobedominatedbydeep-pocketedbusinessinterestswhoputprofitovercitizens’safety.Twiceinthelastfewyears,shesaid,peoplehadurgedhertostandforoffice.Twicesherefused.“Youneedmoneytorunandwhenyougetthemoneyyouareindebtedtothepeopleorcorporationthatgaveyouit,”shesaid.Instead,BreitweisernowdevotesherselftobloggingfortheHuffingtonPostonawiderangeofissues.

Postonawiderangeofissues.

ShehasdevelopedafascinationwiththeMiddleEastandtheMuslimworldandrecentlytookherchildonatriptoMorocco.AtriptoTurkeyisplannedthisyearandshewantstogotoEgyptnextyeartowitnesstheaftermathofthecountry’srecentrevolution.“Thereisnothingmoreinspiringthanseeingagroupofpeopleriseuptogetheragainstthepowersthatbewhenthosepowersareinthewrong,”shesaid.“Itwasalsonon-violent,andafterlosingmyhusbandinthewayIdid,byMiddleEasternterrorists,itwasamazingtoseechangehappeningwithoutviolence.”

VanAuken,too,hasnowdevelopedintereststhatperhapsonemightnotexpect.She,too,concentratesonherchildren,butalsomakesjewelleryandhasseizedonanewcampaigningcause:theplightofbees.AftertakingacourseatalocaluniversityinNewJersey,VanAukenbegankeepingherownhives,harvestinghoneyandthenexploringtheproblemsthatarecausingbeestodieoutacrosstheworld.Thathasledherrightbackintocampaigning,asmanyexpertsbelievethebee’sproblemscouldbelinkedtopollutionandotherhumanactivities.AleakedinternalreportfromtheEnvironmentalProtectionAgencyrecentlycitedtherisksofonechemicalpesticidetobeesandcausedoutrage.

NowVanAukenistryingtoorganisebeekeeperstocampaignforabanontheproduct.“Iambackinanother‘fightthegovernment’thing,”VanAukenlaughed.Butaswellasgivingheracause,thebeeshavealsogivenherpeaceofmind.“Ienjoythebees.Yougettowatchthecolonyandseewhatthey’redoing.Itfitsinwithmygarden.Itisanaturalsystemanditmakesmehappy,”shesaid.

TheJerseyGirls,itseems,mayhavemovedon–buttheyhaven’tlosttheirfightingspirit.

America’stallestbuildingrisesfromtherubbleofGroundZeroAtoweringmonumenttoUSresilienceisfinallyjoiningtheManhattanskyline

EdPilkington,4September2011

Whenthetwintowerscollapsedthatday,theyleftbehindtwogiantholesintheworld’smostfamousskyline,likemissingmilkteethinachild’ssmile.Oncethedustcloud–visible20milesaway–hadsettled,allthatremainedwasacathedral-sizedmoundofrubbleandover3mcubicmetresofair.

Inthesubsequentdecade,NewYorkershaveinstinctivelyturnedtothetwintowerstoorientatethemselves,onlytofindnothingthere.

Butoverthelastfewmonths,andwiththe10thanniversaryofthe21stcentury’smostnotoriouseventimminent,anewstructurehasstartedtostretchupwards,piercingtheManhattanskyline,itsroofsproutingcranesliketheleavesofayoungplant.Thebuildingalreadystandsboldlyabovetheothersarounditanditisonlytwo-thirdscomplete.

Witheveryweekthatpasses,itisclaimingitsstatusasthepre-eminentManhattanlandmark.ByearlynextyearitwillsupersedetheEmpireStateBuildinginheight.Evennowitdrawstheeye,particularlyatnightwhenitsconstructionlightstwinklelikeabroochfromTiffany.

Thisweekthetowerstandsat80floorsandcounting.Itisgoingupattherateofaflooraweek,theproductof24/7activitybyateamof1,100workers.Bythetimeitopens,itwillbe104floors;abeaconwilltakeittothehistoricallyresonantheightof1,776ft(541metres).

Uponthe55thflooroftheemergingskyscraper–oncecalledFreedomTowerbutnowknownbythemoretemperatename1WorldTradeCenter–thestunningviewsareampleevidenceofthebuilding’spotential.

Youcanseewayacrossthewater,beyondEllisIslandandLadyLibertytoNewJersey,whilebelowus,thememorialgardensarebeingassembledinhonourofthosewhodied.

“Thisistheworstdisasterinourcountry’shistoryandwe’reup55storeysandclimbing,”saysLeeIelpi,aNewYorkfirefighterwhoknowsmoreaboutGroundZerothanmost.Forthepast10yearshehasspentmostofhiswaking

GroundZerothanmost.Forthepast10yearshehasspentmostofhiswakinglifehere.Hearrivedatthesitesoonafterthetowersfellandforthenextninemonthsheworked12-hourdaysatoptherubblesearchingforbodies.Afterthesitewascleared,hefoundedatributecenterthathousesa9/11exhibitionandworkswithbereavedfamilies.

Ielpi’ssonJonathan,alsoafirefighter,wascalledoutwiththeQueens-basedSquad288afterthefirstplanestruckandhewasinthesouthtowerhelpingpeopleescapewhenitcamedown.Hisbodywasdiscoveredthreemonthstothedayafterthedisaster;Ielpicarriedhissonoutwithhisownhands.

Ielpirattlesoffthekeystatistics,bynowasfamiliartohimashisson’sname.“Onthissite2,749peopleweremurderedinamatterof102minutes.Therearestill1,125peoplemissing,10yearslater.Only174wholebodieswerefound.OneofthemwasJonathan.”

Later,hesays:“Peopleaskme,‘It’sbeen10years,what’sitlike?’Well,it’slikeIhaven’tseenmysonfor10years.Nothingmorethanthat.”

Ielpitakesusonatourofthe16-acresite,which,on12Septemberwillbeopenedtothepublicforthefirsttime.Wewalkaroundthefootprintofthesouthtowerandcometoastopinfrontofanoaktree,oneof415plantedatGroundZero.

“ThisisthefirsttimeI’veseenthatguyblooming,”Ielpisays.“IseeitandIthinkofmyson.Twentynine.Marriedwithtwolittleboys.Lovedhelpingpeople.Knewwherehewasgoingonthe11th,knewwhathehadtodo.Soyeah,Ilookatthistree,andthisisnice.”

Jonathan’snameisetchedinabronzepanelthatrunsaroundthefoursidesofthefootprintofthesouthtower.Alsonamedherearetheothervictims–thoseontheaircraft,theemergencyworkers,andthevictimsofthePentagonandPennsylvaniacrashes.AsecondtributeatthenorthtowerbearsthenamesofthosewhodiedthereaswellasthosekilledinthefirstterrorattackontheWorldTradeCenter,on26February1993.FromSundaybothfootprintswillbetransformedintomassivereflectivepoolswithwaterfalling30feetfromtheiredges.

“Ican’ttellyouhowpowerfulitis,”Ielpisays.“I’vestoodbythatedgeand

“Ican’ttellyouhowpowerfulitis,”Ielpisays.“I’vestoodbythatedgeandlistenedasthewatercascadesdown.Ifyouwanttohearsomebody,there’sagoodlikelihoodyou’regoingtohearsomebody.”

StandinginthemiddleofGroundZero,youcannowstarttoappreciatethefusionofcommemorationandrebirththatisgatheringpace.Nextyearthe9/11MemorialMuseumwillopen,runningunderneaththeplazaandhousingmanyartefactsfromthetwintowers,includingtwoenormoustridentsfromthenorthtowerthatarealreadyinplace.In2013thefourthtoweronthesite,a60-floorskyscraperdesignedbyFumihikoMakithatisnowgoingup,isscheduledtoopen,followedinJanuary2014by1WorldTradeCenter.

Towerstwoandthree,bytheBritisharchitectsLord(Norman)FosterandLord(Richard)Rogersrespectively,haveyettohavefirmcompletiondates.

Thereliefthatthereissomethingfinallyhappeningatthesiteispalpable.TohavehadnothingtoshowadecadeaftertheattackswouldhavebeenanenormousembarrassmentforNewYorkandforAmerica.

Partofthereasonforthepainfullyslowprogresshasbeenphysical–theWorldTradeCenterwasbuiltonmorethan20metresoflandfillontheHudsonriverwhich,addedtothemazeofcommuterandsubwaylinesthatrunsbeneathit,makesforafiendishlycomplicatedinfrastructure.

Butalessacceptablecauseofdelayhasbeenthemessyandattimesuglyinteractionbetweenthecountlessentitiesthathaveviedtocontrolaspectsoftheproject,fromthePortAuthorityofNewYorkandNewJerseythatownsthesite,totheprivatedeveloperLarrySilversteinwholeasesmuchofit,throughNewYorkcity,therailwayandsubwayauthorities,insurancecompanies,localbusinessesandresidentsofLowerManhattanand,ofcourse,therelativesofthosewhodied.

PaulGoldberger,theNewYorker’sarchitecturecritic,whohastrackedtheprojectoverthelastdecade,saystherebuildinghasbeenbesetby“enormousbattlesbetweenalltheparticipantswhocouldnotagreeonwhattodo,howtodoitandwhoshouldpayforit”.Atitslowestpoint,theparalysisthattookholdafter9/11madeamockeryofNewYork’sreputationasthecan-docitywhereanythingispossible.

anythingispossible.

“That’samythleftoverfromanotherage.AsNewYorkhasbecomeolderandmoremature,ithaslostthewe’ll-do-it-no-matter-whatattitudethatitpioneeredbutthatnowexistsinplaceslikeDubaiorSingapore.”

Goldbergerhasmixedfeelingsabouttheredevelopmentasittakesshape.Hepraisesthememorialfeaturesoftheproject,withthefootprintsofthetwintowersastheircenterpiece,whichhethinkswillhonourthevictimsinamovingandimportantway.Butheharboursdoubtsaboutthebuildingsthatwillsurroundthememorial,particularly1WorldTradeCenter.DesignedbytheAmericanarchitectDavidChilds,ithasgonethroughseveralincarnations,eachonemoreconventionalthanthelast.

“It’sgoingtobeagoodbuilding,butnomorethanthat,”Goldbergersays.“Welosttheopportunitytobuildagreatbuildingbybeingoverlyconservativeinthedesign,overlyconcernedwithsecurity.Itsaddensmethatwedidn’ttakethisopportunitytoreassertAmericanleadership.Americaiswheretheskyscraperbegan.Wecouldhavetakenthispieceofland,inthecityofskyscrapers,andbuiltthegreenest,mostexcitingandinnovativeskyscraperthatwillshowawholenewdirection.Wedidn’tdothat.”

Despitethereservationsofthecity’spre-eminentarchitecturecritic,commercially1WorldTradeCenterlookssetonapathtowardssuccess.TaraStacom,vicechairmanofCushman&Wakefield,thepropertyfirmhandlingtheleasingoftheofficespace,predictsitwillbethe“mostimportantbuildinginthewesternhemisphere–it’sgoingtobethecoolest,hippestplacetoworkandlive.”

Shesaysarangeofmediaandlawfirms,entertainmentcompaniesandfinancialbusinesseshaveexpressedinterestintakingupspace,includingsomefromEuropeandtheUK.Inthebiggestdealtodate,themagazinepublisherCondeNasthassignedupforonemillionsquarefeet–morethanathirdofthebuilding.

Whentheideaofanothervasttower,whichoncompletionwillbethetallestintheAmericas,wasfirstsuggested,scepticsarguedthatitwouldneverbebuiltbecausenobodywouldeverwanttositinanofficehighintheNewYorkskyfor

becausenobodywouldeverwanttositinanofficehighintheNewYorkskyforfearofarepeatattack.ButStacominsiststhathasnotbeenaworryforprospectiveclients.“Whenwetourthesiteit’sallaboutwhatanincredibleplacethisisgoingtobe.”

BackatGroundZero,overlookingthepoolatthesouthtowerwherehissondied,LeeIelpisaysit’stimetomoveon.“Therearesomefamilymembers–andyoucanunderstandit–whocan’tgetbeyond9/11.Theirlovedonesweretakenawayinahorribleway.Butyouhavetogeton.Youneverforget,butifyoudon’tgetonyou’regoingtobetrapped.”

Ielpibelievesthatwhentherebuildingisfinallyfinished,itwillradiateitsmessagefarbeyondthelimitsofManhattan,ofNewYorkorevenoftheUS.“We’reputtingamemorialhere,amuseumhere,wearegoingtorememberourlovedones,andthenwearegoingtosurrounditwithbeautifulbuildingstoreplacethosethatweredestroyedthroughhatred.We’regoingtoshowtheterroriststhatthroughourresilience–ours,asaworld’s–wecandoit.Wewillovercometheobstructionsthatcomealong.”

9/11innumbers

TomTempletonandTomLumley,18August2002

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