A Little Story About the Monsters in Your Closet - Report

8/12/2019 A Little Story About the Monsters in Your Closet - Report

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e story about the monsters in your closet A little story about the monsters in your closet 3

ExecutiveSummary

ontents

A new investigation by Greenpeace*has found a broad range of hazardouschemicals in childrens clothing and

footwear across a number of majorclothing brands, including fast fashion,sportswear and luxury brands.

The study follows on from several previous investigationspublished by Greenpeace as part of its Detox campaign,which identified that hazardous chemicals are present intextile and leather products as a result of their use duringmanufacture1. It confirms that the use of hazardouschemicals is still widespread even during themanufacture of clothes for children and infants.

A total of 82 childrens textile products2were purchasedin May and June 2013 in 25 countries/regions worldwidefrom flagship stores, or from other authoris ed retailers3.

They were manufactured in at least twelve differentcountries/regions. The brands included fast fashionbrands, such as American Apparel, C&A, Disney, GAP,H&M, Primark, and Uniqlo; sportswear brands, such asadidas, LiNing, Nike, and Puma; and the luxury brandBurberry.

The products were sent to the Greenpeace Research

Laboratories at the University of Exeter in the UK, fromwhere they were dispatched to independent accreditedlaboratories. All products were investigated for thepresence of nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs); certainproducts were also analysed for phthalates, organotins,per/poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs), or antimony, wherethe analysis was relevant for the type of product4. Theanalysis for antimony was carried out at the GreenpeaceResearch Laboratories5.

All the hazardous chemicals mentioned above weredetected in various products, above the technical limitsof detection used in this study. Despite the fact that all theproducts purchased were for children and infants, th erewas no significant difference between the range and levelsof hazardous chemicals found in this study compared toprevious studies analysing those chemicals.

*Investigation carried out by Greenpeace International,brought to you by Greenpeace East Asia

executive summary

cutive Summary 3

ion 1: Results A wide range of hazardous

micals in a wide range of brands 13

on 2: No more play its time to Detox 25

notes 31

endix 36

Acknowledgements:

We would like to thank the followingpeople who contributed to the creationof this report. If we have forgottenanyone, they know that our gratitude isalso extended to them.

Kevin Brigden, Madeleine Cobbing,Tommy Crawford, Ilze Smit, RobinPerkins, Ieva Vilimaviciute, Yifang Li,Miao Zhang, Sha Du, Chih An Lee,

Yan Huang, Yuan Yuan Guan, CaidanCao, Kristin Casper

Design, Art Direction by:Toby Cotton @ Arc Communications

A Little Story about Monsters in YourCloset

Published January 2014

By Greenpeace East Asia

Beijing Office, 3/F, Julong OfficeBuilding, Block 7, Julong Garden, 68

Xinzhong Street, Dongcheng District,Beijing, China. 100027

greenpeace.org

myclothesarefilledwithlittlemonsters!

What'sinit?


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ve summary executivesummary

The role of corporations

Major textile companies with a global reach have thepotential to implement impactful solutions towards theelimination of hazardous substances in the industry asa whole. Using their influence, they can drive changeacross their supply chains and are in a position to makereal progress towards a toxic-free future for our children.Greenpeace is calling on these companies to recognise theurgency of the situation and act as Leaders, committingto zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by January 1st2020. This commitment should include ambitious butachievable timelines that will lead to the swift eli minationof hazardous substances and be followed through withcredible actions.

Since the launch of Greenpeaces Detox campaign in July2011, 18 major clothing companies have made publiccommitments to Detox their supply chains. While most ofthese companies are acting as Leaders, making tangibleprogress towards their commitments, three adidas, Nikeand LiNing are failing to follow through s ufficiently on theirpromises. Meanwhile, other brands have still failed to makea clear commitment to Detox their clothes, despite theirimplication in the toxic scandal in numerous Greenpeacereports (Refer to footnote 1). The findings of this report, inwhich every brand had examples of one or more childrensproducts containing hazardous chemicals, highlight theurgency with which brands need to clean up their supplychains and ensure a toxic-free future for generations tocome.

The role of governments

Greenpeace is calling governments to adopt a politicalcommitment to zero discharge of all h azardouschemicals within one generation. This is to be based onthe precautionary principle, and include a preventativeapproach which avoids the production and use ofhazardous chemicals and therefore releases of hazardouschemicals. This commitment must be matched with acomprehensive set of chemicals management policiesand regulations that establish short-term targets to banthe production and use of priority hazardous chemicals, adynamic list of hazardous substances requiring immediateaction (based on the substitution principle), and a publiclyavailable register of data on dischargers, emissions andlosses of hazardous substances.

The role of People Power

Our children deserve to live in a world free of hazardouschemicals and adults around the world have the powerto make this a reality. As parents, global citizens andconsumers, by acting together now we can challengemajor brands and governments to bring about the urgentchange the world needs. Already the united calls for toxic-free fashion have led to landmark Detox commitments from18 major clothing companies, including well-known brandssuch as H&M, Zara, Valentino, and Puma.

It doesnt stop here.

Acting together we can build the toxic-free future ourchildren deserve.

findings

ylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs)were found in 50e 82 products analysed, at levels ranging from justve 1 mg/kg (the limit of detection) up to 17,000 mg/kg.is equivalent to 61% of all products tested.All of

brands had at least one article where NPEs werected. Brands with the highest levels of NPEs in th eiructs (above 1,000 mg/kg) were C&A, Disney and

erican Apparel. Burberrywas not far behind with aof 780 mg/kg in one product.

ucts from 10 of the 12 countries of manufacture

ained NPEs.

halateswere detected in 33 out of 35 samples withtisol prints on them, two of which contained farer concentrations of phthalates compared to the

er articles tested; aPrimarkt-shirt6sold in Germanyained 11% phthalates and a baby one-piece from

erican Apparel7sold in the USA contained 0.6%alates. The levels of phthalates found in thesetems would not be permitted in certain toys andcare products under regulations for these productsin the EU, which do not apply to clothing.

Organotinswere found in three articles with plastisolprints (of 21 tested) and three footwear articles (of fivetested). The highest concentrations of organotinswerefound in three footwear products by Puma and adidas8,with the highest levels in a Puma sport shoe. For all ofthese, the concentrations of the organotin DOT werehigher than the Oeko-tex standard9 which is a voluntaryeco-label and the standards set by adidas and Pumafor DOT in their own Restricted Substances Lists 10.

One or more PFC was detected in each of the 15 articles

tested.

Three adidasproducts11, a toddlers coat fromNike12, and a jacket from Uniqlo13had relatively highconcentrations of PFCs(either for volatile or ionic).

The analysis for ionic PFCs found PFOS i n one adidasshoe14and in Burberryswimwear15.

The concentration of the ionic PFC PFOA by area in one

adidasswimsuit16was far higher than the limit of 1 g/mset by Norway from 201417and even by adidas in its ownRestricted Substances List18.

Antimony was detected in all 36 articles, all of which

included fabrics composed of polyester, or a blend ofpolyester and other fibres.

Idon'twanttoplay

withlittlemonsters.

Mom,Dad,Idon'twant

monstersinmycloset.


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ve summary

and poly-fluorinated chemicals

Cs)

nd poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs) are usedny industrial processes and consumer products,ing textile and leather products, due to theircal properties such as their ability to repel bothand oil. Ionic PFCs such as PFOS and PFOA

ause adverse impacts both during developmenturing adulthood, in part due to their hormoneting properties, with impacts on the reproductive

m and the immune system, as well as beingtially carcinogenic in animal tests.

ylphenol ethoxylates/Nonylphenols

Es/NPs)

are man-made chemicals that are widely used astants by textiles manufacturers. Once released tovironment, NPEs degrade to nonylphenols (NP),are known to be toxic, and acting as hormoneters, persistent and bioaccumulative. NP is known

umulate in many living organisms. The presenceEs in finished products shows that they haveused during their manufacture, which is likely toin the release of NPEs and NP in wastewater fromfacturing facilities.

Meetthemonstersnmycloset

Phthalates

Phthalates are mainly used as plasticisers (or softeners)in plastics, especially PVC. They are commonly found inhuman tissues, with reports of significantly hi gher levels ofintake in children. There are substantial concerns aboutthe toxicity of phthalates to wildlife and humans and inparticular their hormone-disrupting effects. For example,DEHP, one of the most widely used to date, is known to betoxic to reproductive development in mammals, capableof interfering with development of reproductive organs inmales and affecting reproductive success in females.

Antimony

Antimony shows many similarities in its chemistry andtoxicity to arsenic . Trivalent antimony, such as is presentin antimony trioxide, is a more toxic form of antimonycompound, with effects including dermatitis, irritation of therespiratory tract, and interference with the immune system.

Organotins

Within the textile industry organotin s are used as biocidesor fungicides in products such as socks, shoes and sportclothes to prevent odour caused by the breakdown ofsweat, and as stabilisers in plastisol prints . Organotins areknown to be toxic at relatively low levels of exposure to arange of organisms, including mammals, with impacts ondevelopment, the immune system and the nervous system.


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ve summary executivesummary

3/4 1/1 0/0 0/0 1/1

No. of

samples

11

4

9

7

5

11

7

4

9

6

6

3

NPEs Phthalates Organotins PFCs Antimony1. The number of samples

ch NPEs, phthalates,otins, PFCs, and antimonyester fibre were identified.sting was process by variousand parts of the products.s are shown by product

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6/9 1/1 0/0 2/2 1/1

3/7 4/4 0/2 1/1 1/1

4/5 3/3 0/3 1/1 2/2

4/11 5/7 0/7 0/0 2/2

6/7 4/4 1/2 2/2 3/3

3/4 2/2 0/2 0/0 2/2

5/9 3/3 0/4 2/2 5/5

5/6 2/2 0/2 2/2 3/3

5/6 1/1 3/4 1/1 3/3

1/3 1/1 0/2 1/1 3/3


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tle story about the monsters in your closet A little story about the monsters in your closet 13

This study has analysed for the presence of aneven broader range of hazardous chemicalsthan previous studies published by Greenpeace:nonylphenol ethoxylates, certain types ofamines, phthalates, organotins, per-/poly-fluorinated chemicals, and antimony. All thesehazardous chemicals were found, except forcarcinogenic amines released by certain azodyes, which were found in previous studies19.

However, The new findings are in line with whathas been established by earlier investigations:Greenpeace has already identified the presenceof a range of hazardous chemicals in textile andleather products and concluded that this was asa result of their use during manufacture, eitherwithin the processes used in textile factories ordue to their presence in materials that are usedto make the products20.

It is obvious that, despite the documentedhazards associated with them, hazardouschemicals continue to be used for a varietyof purposes in the textiles process or inthe product itself: NPEs are widely usedas surfactants and detergents in textilesprocessing; phthalates are used as additives inplastisol prints on clothing; organotins can alsobe an ingredient in plastisol prints as well as afungicide; clothes are treated with per-/poly-fluorinated chemicals to impart waterproofingor oil proofing properties, while a compound ofantimony (antimony trioxide) is used as catalystin the manufacture of polyester.

All this is the case even though in manyinstances more environmentally responsiblealternatives are available for these substances.

Results A wide rangeof hazardous chemicalsin a wide range of brands

#1

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Section #1n #1

e of the branded products analysed for this report.

TX13094 - PRIMARK

TX13048 - GAPTX13056 - GAP TX13003 - adidas

TX13004 - adidas

TX13006 - adidas

TX13063 - H&M

TX13014 - AMERICAN APPAREL

TX13073 - LI NING

TX13097 - PUMA

TX13091 - PRIMARK

TX13031 - C&A

TX13088 - NIKE

TX13100 - PUMA

TX13017 - BURBERRY

TX13015 - AMERICAN APPAREL

TX13074 - LI NING TX13030 - C&A

TX13082 - NIKE

TX13018 - BURBERRY TX13040 - DISNEY

TX13043 - DISNEY

TX13101 - PUMA

TX13069 - H&M

TX13023 - BURBERRYTX13025 - BURBERRY


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Nonylphenol ethoxylates

products were analysed for nonylphenol ethoxylates). They were found in 50 of these products, at levelsg from just above 1 mg/kg (the limit of detection)7,000 mg/kg. This is equivalent to 61% of all

oducts and is consistent with th e findings frompeaces two previous studies.

fact that NPEs were detected in products across all

ds, in most of the countries/regions where they were

and in almost all countries of manufacture, suggeststhe use of NPEs by the textile i ndustry remains

espread. This includes the supply chains used by theor international clothing brands in this study20.

highest concentration of NPEs was detected in a

branded shoe21 manufactured and sold in Mexicovels well above the limit that C&Asets in its ownricted Substances List22.

t articles (10% of the samples) contain ed NPEs at

centrations above 100 mg/kg and, of these, threeples (4% of articles tested) had concentrations over0 mg/kg (0.1% by mass).

the brands had at least one article where NPEs

e detected. Brands with the highest levels of NPEseir products (above 1,000 mg/kg)23were C&A,ney24andAmerican Apparel25. Burberry26was notehind with levels of 780 mg/kg in one product.

ucts from 10 of the 12 countries of manufacture

ained NPEs.

concentration for the single sample manufactured

exico (17,000 mg/kg) was considerably higherany of the other samples (as only a si ngle sample

ufactured in Mexico was analysed, it is not possibleaw any conclusions from this about articlesufactured in Mexico in general).

1.2. Phthalates in plastisol prints

A sub-set of 35 samples were analysed for the presence ofphthalates within plastisol printed fabric on the articles.

Phthalates were detected in 33 out of the 35 samples.

Two of these samples contained phthalates above 0.1%,

indicating their deliberate use as a plasticiser.

One of these s amples, a Primark31t-shirt32sold inGermany, contained a particularly high concentration ofthe phthalate DEHP, at 110,000 mg/kg (11.0%).

The other sample, a baby one-piece33fromAmericanApparel34purchased in the USA contained the phthalateDINP at 5,900 mg/kg (0.59% by weight) in addition to2,000 mg/kg of NPE, as noted above.

Nonylphenol ethoxylates/nonylphenols (NPEs/NPs)

NPEs are man-made chemicals that are widelyused as surfactants by textiles manufacturers.Once released to the environment, NPEsdegrade to nonylphenols (NP), which are knownto be toxic, and acting as hormone disrupters,persistent and bioaccumulative. NP is knownto accumulate in many living organisms. The

presence of NPEs in finished products shows thatthey have been used during their manufacture,which is likely to result in the release of NPEs andNP in wastewater from manufacturing facilities. Inaddition, NPE residues in these products will bewashed out during laundering and released intothe public wastewater systems of the countrieswhere the products are sold.

There have been restrictions on certain uses ofNPEs by industry since 2005 in the EU 27, withsimilar restrictions in place in the US and Canada 28.

Although there are currently no EU regulationsthat restrict the sale of textile products containingNPE residues, measures are currently underdevelopment within the EU, proposed by theSwedish Chemicals Agency29. Elsewhere, NP andNPEs are included on the list of toxic chemicalsseverely restricted for import and export in China,which means that their import or export acrossChinas borders now requires prior permission,though their manufacture, use and release are notcurrently regulated in China30; NP/NPEs are alsoincluded in Chinas dangerous chemicals list and inthe 12th 5-year plan for Prevention and Control ofEnvironmental Risk of Chemicals.

childcare articles put on the market within the EU (witha limit of 0.1% by weight, equivalent to 1,000 mg/kg),and the use of others, including DINP, is prohibitedin such articles if they can be placed in the mouthby children (EU 2005). Such regulations have beenreplicated in other countries such as the US 38, andmost recently in China, where a new standard on toysafety prohibiting the use of six phthalates in childrenstoys was notified to the World Trade Organisation(WTO) in July 2013 and will come into force in Jun e201439.

The definition of childcare articles does not includeitems of clothing in these regulations40. However, draftlegislation has been proposed in China which wouldprohibit the presence of six phthalates, includingDEHP and DINP, at concentrations above 0.1% byweight (1,000 mg/kg), in clothes sold for babies andyoung children (under 36 months old) 41. Anotherexception is South Korea, where the restriction on sixphthalates in toys and childcare articles also applies toclothing for infants under 24 months 42.

Within the European Union, certain phthalates,including DEHP, DBP, DiBP and BBP, have beenlisted as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC)under the EU REACH43.

Phthalates

Phthalates are mainly used as plasticisers (orsofteners) in plastics, especially PVC. Becausephthalates are not chemically bound to the plastics,they are released into the indoor and outdoorenvironment during the lifetime of the productsand again following disposal. Phthalates are foundwidely in the indoor environment, including in air anddust35. They are commonly found in human tissues,with reports of significantly higher levels of intake inchildren. There are substantial concerns about thetoxicity of phthalates to wildlife and humans andin particular their hormone-disrupting effects. Forexample, DEHP, one of the most widely used to date,is known to be toxic to reproductive development inmammals, capable of interfering with developmentof reproductive organs in males and affectingreproductive success in females36.

Legislation does not currently exist in any of thecountries where the 35 tested articles were sold thatprohibits the sale of clothing containing phthalates37.However, probably the best known legislation onphthalates is the EU-wide ban on the us e of six

phthalates in childrens toys and childcare articles,first agreed as an emergency measure in 1999 andfinally made permanent in 2005. The use of certainphthalates, including DEHP, is prohibited in all toys or

Section #1n #1


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#1 Section #1

Organotins

of 32 products were analysed for organotins, whichted of 21 items of clothing with a l arge plastisol print,otwear articles, and six sportswear tops.

or more organotin compounds were detected in six

es.

all, far higher concentrations of organotins w ere

cted in three of the footwear articles one by adidastwo by Puma44 compared to the printed articles.product with the highest concentrations45was aa sportshoe. All three articles exceeded the Oeko-

abelling standard for the organotin DOT46, and thedards set by adidas and Puma for DOT47. However,credibility of such standards can be questioned, asdo not publicly indicate that the best current testingnology is applied, which requires the lowest possiblerting levels for hazardous chemicals48.

e of the five footwear articles contained organotins.

rent individual organotins were detected in thesees compared to the printed articles: monooctyltinT) in the range 0.26-34 mg/kg and dioctyltin (DOT) i nange 0.18-369 mg/kg.

e of the 21 articles bearing a plastisol print contained

notins, all of them t-shirts, from adidas, PumaandM49.

1.4. Per- and poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs)

A total of 15 articles were analysed for the presence of

per- and poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs), consisting ofseven waterproof clothing articles, three footwear articlesand five swimwear articles. Textiles can be treated withPFCs (per-fluorinated chemicals) for their water and oilrepellent properties. Two different types of PFCs wereanalysed ionic PFCs (for example PFOS and PFOA) andvolatile PFCs, which are used as precursors or generatedduring manufacturing processes, such as fluorotelomer

alcohols (FTOHs) and fluorotelomer acrylates (FTAs),which can break down into ionic PFCs.

One or more PFC was detected in each of the 15 articles

tested. Ionic PFCs were found in all but one article. Forthe volatile PFCs, examples were detected in five of the15 articles (four of the seven waterproof clothing articlesand one footwear article).

Although only detected in five products, volatilePFCs were generally found in considerably higherconcentrations than ionic PFCs.

Our investigations have shown concentrations of PFCscan vary widely not only between products but also withindifferent parts of the same product. The variation in resultsbetween different parts of the five articles tested in duplicatereflects real variation in concentrations within the clothingand does not result from the testing method.

Two products with high concentrations of volatile PFCs (a

waterproof coat at 2,420 g/kg and shoes at 499 g/kg)and one product with the second highest concentration ofionic PFCs (swimwear at 68.0 g/kg) were from adidas53.

Similar levels of volatile PFCs were also fou nd in jackets

by C&A and Uniqlo54. These products were producedbefore their new PFC-ban come to effect.**

The analysis for ioni c PFCs found the restricted

substance PFOS in one portion of an adidas shoe (at0.855 g/m, though not in a second portion (


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Section #1n #1

er- and poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs) are usedmany industrial processes and consumer products,cluding textile and leather products, due to theiremical properties such as their ability to repel both

ater and oil. A well-known example is the polymerTFE, marketed as Teflon and widely used for non-ck cookware, but not for textiles.

any PFCs, especially ionic PFCssuch as PFOS andFOA, are highly persistent and do not readily breakown once released to the environment, which has ledtheir presence throughout the environment, evenremote regions. Ionic PFCs have been reported inwide range of both aquatic and terrestrial biota, duetheir ability to bioaccumulate, as well as in h uman

ood and milk in the general population in manyountries around the world. Studies show that PFCsch as PFOS and PFOA can cause adverse impacts

oth during development and during adulthood, inart due to their hormone disrupting properties, withpacts on the reproductive system and the immunestem, as well as being potentially carcinogenic inimal tests.

olatile PFCssuch as FTOHs, are generally usedprecursors during manufacturing processes.

owever, FTOHs can be transformed into ionic PFCsuch as PFOA) in the body or in the atmosphere. Theocess of transformation can also form intermediateoducts in the body that may be more harmful thane end product. Studies indicate that some FTOHsow endocrine disrupting activity themselves,

cluding disturbing fish reproduction, though far lessormation exists compared to the compounds that

TOHs can give rise to (eg PFOA). In addition to theserect hazards from FTOH, the potential for FTOHs toansform into other ionic PFCs, poses an additionalzard. Precursor PFCs, such as FTOHs, are volatiled have frequently been detected in air samples,en in remote areas. Recent Greenpeace tests haveund evaporation of volatile PFCs from outdoorothes66.

he ionic PFC, PFOS, has been classified as

er- and poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs) 1.5. Antimony in polyester

Polyester fibres are known to contain residues of antimonytrioxide where it was used as a catalyst during theirmanufacture71 72. Factories that manufacture polyesterfabrics or use polyester fibres can also discharge antimonyin their wastewater, as found by a recent Greenpeaceinvestigation into a textiles facility that processes polyesterin Indonesia73.

Antimony was detected in all of th e 36 articles that

included fabrics composed of polyester, or a blend ofpolyester and other fibres.

Concentrations in th e polyester and the fabric blends

were in the range 14-293 mg/kg of polyester.

Antimony

Antimony shows many similarities in its chemistryand toxicity to arsenic74. Trivalent antimony, suchas is present in antimony trioxide, is a more toxicform of antimony compound, with effects includingdermatitis, irritation of the respiratory tract, andinterference with the immune system. In addition,antimony trioxide is listed as possibly carcinogenicto humans principally due to inhalation of dustsand vapours75. Inhalation exposure to antimony ismore common in occupational settings, whereasthe general population is exposed to antimonymainly through ingestion of food and water.

No regulations currently exist which prohibitthe use of antimony in textile manufactureworldwide, despite the availability of alternativecatalysts for polyester manufacture. Recently,Greenpeace found antimony being dischargedfrom manufacturing facility processing polyesterin Indonesia76. Within the EU, the EcolabelRegulation77 requires that the antimony contentin polyester fibres does not exceed 260 mg/kg forarticles bearing the Ecolabel78.

a persistent organic pollutant (POP) under theStockholm Convention, a global treaty th at requirescontracting parties to take measures to restrict theproduction and use of PFOS67. And the marketingand use of PFOS within the EU h as been prohibitedfor certain uses since 2008, with a maximum limitof 1 g/m set for PFOS in textiles 68. However, thereare currently no limits set for any other PFCs, despite

concerns about their hazardous nature and thefact that they can commonly be found at far higherconcentrations in textiles.

Norway is the first country where the sale of textilescontaining PFOA above 1 g/m will be prohibitedfrom June 2014; certain PFCs have also recently beenadded to a list of priority chemicals, meaning thatreleases to the environment must be eliminated orsubstantially reduced by 202069. Norway, and all othercountries, should enforce the elimination of PFOA (andthe PFC chemical group as a whole) at much lowerlevels, using the best current testing technology. Inaddition, PFOA and four other long chain PFCAs arealso classified as substances of very high concern(SVHCs) within the EU un der the REACH regulations(ECHA 2013)70.

PFCs

(non polymor)

per+ poly

flourinated chemicals

short and long chained

trend to restrict certain long-chain

PFCs at the international or

national level

(OECD 2013)

Transformation of some

volatile FTOHstoionic PFCs

Ionic per-flourinated

chemicals eg PFOS restricted PFOA

Volatile

poly-flourinated chemicalsfluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs)fluorotelomer acrylates (FTAs)


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Section #1n #1

effects on children

g residues of hazardous chemicals in clo thing

ase for concern especially if the clothing is

for children: infants and children may be more

ive to the effects of some hazardous chemicals

ared to adults79.

already reflected in some voluntary standards80, as in the restrictions th at some textiles companiesthemselves, with more protective limits for

ntrations of certain chemicals in clothing items foren, compared to adult clothing81. It is also recognisedrestrictions on the presence of certain phthalatesand articles for children under three in the EU and

countries82, which do not apply to clothing.

t regulation in China sets restrictions on phthalateshes for children under three83. In South Koreawas not included in t his report) the restriction onhalates in toys and chil dcare articles also applies tog for infants under 36 months 84. These voluntary andtory restrictions do not go far enough and only coverlimited part of hazardous chemicals.

The special vulnerability of children to certain chemicalshas led regulators to enforce relatively more restrictive but still insufficient regulations on a small numberof hazardous chemicals in certain products (such as

phthalates in toys). Although necessary to protect childrenfrom direct exposure to hazardous chemicals in suchcases, this approach is nowhere near enough: Where thelimits are set they are not as low as could be achieved.

The focus of some regulations on children under threealso excludes older children and other vulnerable people,in particular the unborn baby via its parents and in

Hazardous chemicals have the potential to cause a

range of adverse health effects. Some may interfere

with the hormone system.

Hazardous chemicals have the potential to cause adversehealth effects. Many hazardous chemicals are known toaccumulate in our bodies; some of these have knownhazardous properties and the potential to cause adversehealth effects. The use of hazardous chemicals in childrensclothing leads to the release of such chemicals into th eenvironment, either during manufacturing or from the

products directly. In some instances, there may also bethe potential risk of direct exposure to these hazardouschemicals for children.

Many of the chemicals found in this report are knownendocrine disruptors, or (in the case of NPEs) able togive rise to chemicals which are endocrine disruptors chemicals which can interfere with hormone systems inanimals and humans. A recent UNEP & WHO report85on endocrine disruptors concluded that some can actat very low doses and that the timing of some impactson hormone systems can be critical. Many endocrine-related diseases and disorders are on the rise (though inmany cases the extents to which exposure to endocrinedisruptors are contributing is still unclear) 86. In particular,the report highlights that:

Effects shown in wildlife or experimental animals may

also occur in humans if they are exposed to EDCs at a

vulnerable time and at concentrations leading to alterations

of endocrine regulation. Of special concern are effects on

early development of both humans and wildlife, as these

effects are often irreversible and may not become evident

until later in life.

particular the mother. Most importantly, such an approachignores the often much greater in direct exposure tohazardous industrial chemicals from the environment andin particular through diet. The use of hazardous chemicals

by manufacturing facilities which are discharged intowaterways and the release of chemical residues fromclothes into the air and water, for example when theyare washed, contributes to the presence of hazardouschemicals in our environment. Only eliminating the useof hazardous chemicals across the whole textiles supplychain will address the problem.

gradually, resulting in potentially higher exposureof the foetal and infant brain to certain chemicalspresent in blood.

There is greater storage and distribution of certain

chemicals in childrens organs. Reduced metabolic capacity to break down or

eliminate chemicals absorbed into the body risksmore severe adverse effects than adults for th esame equivalent level of exposure.

Behaviour and exposure

During infancy and as toddlers, many children spend

a lot of time on or near the floor, where they are moreexposed to dense vapours, car exhausts, housedust and chemicals leaching from flooring products.

Babies and children regularly place objects and

fingers in their mouths, leading to relatively highingestion of labile chemicals on their surfaces, inaddition to dietary sources.

A number of factors including size,metabolism and behaviour, can makeinfants, children and the developingfoetus more vulnerable to some

hazardous chemicals87

:

Absorption and metabolism, relativeto body weight

Food, liquid and air intake is higher relative to their

body weight and gastrointestinal absorption isincreased in infants under six to eight months oldwhich can increase absorption of some chemicals.

The potential for more intensive contact with

parts of home surroundings. Higher skin surfacearea relative to body weight, means potential forhigher absorption relative to body weight of thosechemicals which can be absorbed via the skin.

Physiological differences

The blood-brain barrier, which limits the penetration

of chemicals from the blood to the brain, develops

Box 1. What makes infants and children morevulnerable to some effects of certain hazardouschemicals?


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There is no safe level for hazardouschemicals that is why the target of

zero use is the only credible basis for

taking effective action to eliminate these

harmful substances. Both companies

and governments need to clearly commit

to this aim.

Acceptable levels of hazardouschemicals are not acceptable

This new Greenpeace study clearly confirms what previousinvestigations have found: in spite of decades of regulationand corporate responsibility programmes, hazardouschemicals including the 11 priority groups identified forthe textile sector by Greenpeace88 continue to be usedby supply chain manufacturers of clothes for many well-known brands. Residues of hazardous chemicals arepresent in a wide range of childrens clothing. So-calledacceptable limits of these chemicals, set by regulations,have allowed releases from a multitude of sources,from the manufacturing processes through to the finalproducts. For some of these chemicals this has resultedin their built-up in the environment and in some cases their

accumulation in animal and humans over the years.

The findings of this study show that both companies andgovernments need thorough and comprehensive plans toachieve the elimination of hazardous chemicals, includingthose used in textiles manufacturing, and therefore preventresidues of these chemicals from contaminating consumerproducts, as well their release from manufacturing facilities.Some companies have taken on the challenge to be DetoxLeadersand have begun this process. Unfortunately,other companies adidas, Nike and LiNing promotethemselves as Detox brands but do not have an effectiveplan to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals withintheir supply chains or their products. More companieshave yet to make any commitment at all to Detox and needto do so urgently.

Credible actions taken by companies need to be matchedwith credible regulatory action from governments, tolevel the playing field and to send a strong message tothe textile industry, as well as other sectors, that the useand release of hazardous chemicals is not acceptable.

Although many of the Detox principles (see Box 2) areaccepted by governmental bodies, this is not yet reflectedby the thorough implementation of bans and restrictionson hazardous chemicals that will lead to their eliminationby no later than 1 January 2020. Specific regulation needsto be targeted at each of the hazardous chemicals found

in the childrens clothing in this, to address the particularproblems posed by each chemical group.

No more play its time to Detox

#2

thegrownupsneedtostopthesemonsters!

#2


14/21


Section#2n#2

mpanies: some progress has beene, but much more needs to be done

etox commitment to eliminate the use of alldous chemicals by no later than 1 January 2020cessarily ambitious, to match the urgency of them. But it is achievable, so long as companies do notromise on their commitments.

esult of actions taken by some of the companies thatommitted to Detox, significant changes have taken

For example, the publics Right to Know about thecal-by-chemical discharge from an individual supplyacility used by a brand is becoming a reality. This

een continually rejected by the textile industry andered almost impossible before the Detox campaign. Today, several companies Including Mango,etailing(Uniqlo), Inditex, H&M, Benetton, Valentino,r, M&S, Limited Brands (Zara), C&A, Puma, Coop,

pa and Esprit have ensured they begin theation of data from their suppliers about discharges ofdous chemicals, on the global online platform IPE89.

ective, credible Detox commitment and action

aiming at zero discharges of hazardous chemicals20 consists of commitments and actions underheadings:

principles,

parency, and

nation.

equate approach needs to be hazard-based,rehensive and have credible definitions for th eautionary Principle90, zero discharge of hazardouscals, individual corporate accountability91, and thes Right to Know92about the use and discharge

ardous chemicals from a companys supply chaines, and their presence in the final product. Together,mitment to these principles frames the practicese necessary to progress towards zero h azardouscal use.

ectively eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals inxtile industry and resolve the problem of pollution ofaters with hazardous chemicals, companies should:

pt a credible commitment to phase out the use, their global supply chain and all products, of all

ardous chemicals by 1 January 2020. Credible meansed on the unambiguous adoption of Precautionary

Principle93, zero discharge of hazardous chemicals,individual corporate accountability94, and the publicsRight to Know95.

- Start disclosing in the months foll owing a commitmentand at regular (at least annually) and relevant intervalsafterwards information on the releases of hazardouschemicals that are still used at their suppliers facilities tothe public, especially to local/national inhabitants (e.g.using credible public information platforms96).

- Commit to the elimination of the 11 priority chemicalgroups within a reasonable timeline, and set clear andcredible intermediate progress targets for the eliminationof other hazardous chemicals beyond these groups.Introduce non-hazardous chemistry by the earliestspecific date possible: responsible companies will actnow and not wait until 31 D ecember 2019 to eliminatetheir hazardous chemical use.

DetoxGreenwashersand Laggardsmustact now

In the two years since the public laun ch of GreenpeacesDetox campaign, companies that are Detox Leadershave ensured they begin the publication of hazardouschemical discharge data from many of their facilities anachievement previously rejected by the textile industry asunrealistic. Communities local to textiles manufacturersand the wider public have now begun to gain theirRight to Know about pollution from textile facilities.

This, combined with information about current levels ofhazardous chemicals in certain products, such as thefindings presented in this report, is the starting point forthe progressive reduction and elimination of hazardous

chemicals pollutants into local waterways and in consu merproducts.

This report should remind the DetoxLeadersof the urgencyof eliminating hazardous chemical use in the supply chainand the need to apply their efforts comprehensively.Companies that continue to Greenwash and companiesthat are Laggardsand have no Detox plan, need to actimmediately to address the inadequacies in their policyand practice. The path to zero dis charges requires everycompany to invest sufficient resources with urgency andthere is no excuse to delay taking the first s tep.

umbrella of collective inaction the ZDHC Group98 whi ch has so far done little more than set up tools,processes and conduct pilot studies. Instead of takingthe urgent action n ecessary to make credible progresstowards the elimination of hazardous chemicals,adidas and Nike are spinning their public promises

into public relations exercises.Among the Greenwashers, three products fromadidas had some of the highest concentrations ofboth volatile and ionic PFCs; a Nike coat also had th ehighest levels of volatile PFCs. For the D etox Leaders,this product testing shows that the implementationof some brand commitments has not yet impactedon the presence and levels of hazardous chemicals insome products. Some Detox Leaders brands were stilltested high concentration of ionic PFCs and volatilePFCs for example waterproof trousers sold by H&M99;

As well as a high concentration sample of NPE in aC&A branded shoe100. One Puma sportshoe wasfound to have high concentration of organotins 101, anda Uniqlo waterproof jacket was tested for a high levelof volatile PFCs102.

These Detox Leaders already have crediblecommitments and action plans in place and are inthe process of implemented them. The presenceof hazardous chemicals in their products should beused to inform and accelerate these plans, following athorough investigation of the use of th ese hazardouschemicals by their suppliers. As there are no productsfrom any one brand in this study that are free from

hazardous chemicals at the detection limits usedin this s tudy, Greenpeace urges American Apparel,Burberry, Disney and Primark as well as GAP alreadyidentified as a Laggard to commit to Detox.

This product testing is an independent investigationconducted by Greenpeaces Detox Campaign andseparate from the Detox Catwalk. Nevertheless, theindustry should consider the results of this producttesting as a wake up call to urgently eliminatehazardous chemicals from their supply chain.

The Detox Catwalk assessed the progress of 17Detox committed clothing brands towards theirzero discharge goal97Greenpeace Internationalidentified 14 companies as Leaders undertakingconcrete actions to address the problem of hazardouschemicals with the urgency that it requires. Threecompanies were found to be Greenwashers, failing tofully implement the credible on-the-ground outcomesthey committed to. Meanwhile, seven companies thatwere yet to make a Detox commitment were classifiedas Laggards for their failure to commit.

Products from brands featured all three categoriesin the Detox Catwalk were included in this study:Leaders (C&A, H&M, Puma, Uniqlo), Greenwashers(adidas, Nike, LiNing) and Laggards (GAP). In thisreport, hazardous residues were detected in productsacross all of the brands. Despite committing to Detoxtwo years ago, there is still insufficient evidence fromthe three Greenwashers to show they are deliveringcredible outcomes on the ground. Each of thesecompanies has repeatedly rejected its corporateresponsibility to take action towards the eliminationof any of the identified hazardous chemicals. Neitherhave they been able to act with credible transparency

towards the public, failing to actively support thepublics Right-to-Know about hazardous chemicalpollution from their individual suppliers. These threecompanies prefer to shield themselves under the

Box 2. How do the products testing results reflect onthe Detox Leaders, Greenwashers and Laggards?


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ernments: a political commitmentero discharge is vital

Leadershave taken up the challenge, but the currentof the textiles industry, which outsources much of

duction, means that the continued use of hazardouscals by companies that ignore the need to Detoxdermine these efforts. Therefore, regulation to

ment this change across the whole sector is vital. Toective, this needs to be defined to the strictest testing

ards possible, so that the truth of where and howdous chemicals are turning up in our clothing and inuent of manufacturers is fully revealed.

of the chemicals within the 11 groups of hazardouscals identified are already regulated in somes, in one form or another, including certain APEOs,

03, organo tins, carcinogenic amines and phthalates.ver, the fact that these hazardous chemicals appearso widely present in clothing products, as well asin examples of effluent from the manufacturing

y chain, means that there can be only one conclusion:g regulations are failing to protect human health andvironment.

Some shortcomings in the current regulatory approach are:

The use of NPEs/NPs in textile manufacturing within

Europe has been effectively banned for many years,in order to protect surface waters, yet there are norestrictions on the import of clothes containing thesechemicals, which are released into public wastewatersystems on a wide scale as a result of laundering 104.

Regulations are not consistent across different product

groups. For example, the EU has restriction on

phthalates in childrens toys, but not childrens clothes. In general, the permitted levels of hazardous chemicals

for use in manufacturing and in the finis hed product, setboth by regulators and by voluntary industry labels are fartoo high, and allow their continued use in manufacturing.

Therefore these permitted chemical residues in clothingproducts, distributed across the globe via the numerousproducts that are traded, add up to significant quantitiesof hazardous and persistent chemicals which can lead totheir continued build-up in the environment.

Restrictions on the use of hazardous chemicals in

manufacturing, such as NPEs/NPs in Europe (above)are not yet in place in the countries where the majority ofmanufacturing takes place, such as China, Bangladesh,Indonesia, Thailand, Turkey and Mexico.

n#2

China is the biggest textile manufacturing country i nthe world, consuming 42% of the textile chemicalsused globally every year105. The country is the singlelargest manufacturer of the products analysed in thisreport at 35%, far ahead of the next largest whichis Thailand at 9%. There are signs of increasedawareness in China about the problem of hazardouschemical pollution from the textile industry, which is

now beginning to be addressed; recently, there hasbeen some progress towards greater restrictions onhazardous chemicals. A new Priority Chemicals Listwill be released by Chinas Ministry of EnvironmentalProtection to cover environmental and human healthhazards, which goes beyond the previous concept ofdangerous and which will include some endocrinedisruptors. However, unlike the EU REACH list ofSubstances of Very High Concern106, the prioritylist currently lacks a clear mechanism on how andwhen it is to be updated and it does not have a clearobjective to eventually eliminate the most hazardoussubstances. Meanwhile draft regulation is proposedthat will restrict six phthalates in textile products forinfants and children under three (under 36 months)covering six kinds of phthalates, including DE HP, DBPand DiBP107.

China


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nments need to re-enforce efforts by companiesox by adopting a political commitment to zeroargeof all hazardous chemicals within oneation, incorporating theprecautionary principlecluding apreventative approachby avoiding thection and use, and therefore, exposure to h azardouscals. Within this context, action is needed to tacklezardous chemicals that h ave been found in chil drensg in this report, to ensure the progressive eliminationr use, leading to zero discharges into waterways andate protection for consumers.

specific steps include:

ulation that will lead to the elimination of APEs (whichdes NPEs) needs to implement a restrictio n that doesallow use, including within textiles production. Thereld also be an enforcement of no- allowable-residues

othing articles, imported or otherwise. In order to offerquate protection, both of these measures would needt any limit for NPEs in products as low as possible,e strictest possible testing limits, and cover as wide ae of NPEs as possible.

immediate extension of regulations that restrictalates in toys needs to include all articles for children, incular clothing that bears plastisol prints. Ultimately, thisds to be extended to all products, including all textiles.

regulatory limits for the presence of all organotins ining need to be reduced to the lowest levels possible.

restriction on PFOS needs to be implementedally and expanded to all PFCs, both ionic and volatile,cognize the intrinsic hazard posed by this group of

micals and prevent the current trend of substitutingated PFCs with other PFCs.

ulations also need to restrict the use of antimonylyester manufacture to encourage the use and

elopment of alternative catalysts in polyester production.

measures, limits should be set at the low estcal detection limit with the potential for thi s to beed further in the future, as technology improves.

measures need to be part of a comprehensivementation plan containing intermediate short terms, a dynamic list of priority hazardous substancesng immediate action based on the substitutionple, and a publicly available register of data on

arge emissions and losses of hazardous substances,s a Pollutant Release and Transfer Register (PRTR).

a plan would prevent ongoing releases into thenment that may require future clean-up and h aves impacts on th e environment and on peoples healthelihoods, especially in the Global South. It wouldlear direction for the textiles industry by showin g

that hazardous chemicals have no place in a sustainablesociety, which will in turn drive innovation towards safer alternatives. Finally, it would level the playing field andmake the actions of leading companies a reality throughoutthe entire sector and beyond, as many of the hazardouschemicals used in textiles are also in use in other sectors.

In the context of the global textiles in dustry, the greatestquantities of hazardous chemical emissions take placewhere clothes are manufactured, by the suppliers of majorclothing companies, which mostly take place in the GlobalSouth. Inevitably, clothing products containing hazardouschemicals because they were manufactured usinghazardous chemicals will release these substances whenthey are bought and washed by consumers whereverthey are in the world.

People will naturally be concerned about their own

exposure to hazardous chemicals in clothes, particularlywhen these clothes are for infants and young children.After using second-hand clothes wherever possible, thebest option currently available when buying new clothesfor infants and children is to look for clothes certified withlabels108, and to avoid clothes with strong colours whichmight require more dyeing processes.

The role of people power

As global citizens we can also collectively:

Choose to buy fewer new clothing products, and insteadbuy second-hand clothes where possible. This can alsoinvolve re-purposing and re-using older items to createnew pieces for our wardrobes, or taking part in clothesswaps with friends.

Influence brands to act responsibly on behalf of the planetand its people. The need for companies to make the rightchoices and protect future generations has never beengreater than it is today, and brands need to be challengedon whether they have set a date for the elimination of theuse of hazardous chemicals in their supply chains.

Demand that governments act to restrict the sales andimport of products containing hazardous chemicals.

Our children deserve to live in a world free of hazardouschemicals and adults have th e power to make this a reality.By using our collective power, as adults, parents and globalcitizens, we can bring about the transformational changethe textile industry desperately needs, ensuring companiesand governments take real steps to Detox our clothes,Detox our water and Detox our future.

Creating a toxic-free future for our children is not onlynecessary, it is possible.

To find out how you can make your voice heard visit:

www.greenpeace.org/detox

Endnotesn#2

1Greenpeace International (2011b). Dirty Laundry 2: Hung Outto Dry: Unravelling the toxic trail from pipes to products. August2011.

http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/reports/Dirty-Laundry-2/

Greenpeace International (2012a). Dirty Laundry: Reloaded. Howbig brands are making consumers unwitting accomplices in thetoxic water cycle. 20 March 2012.

http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/Campaign-reports/Toxics-reports/Dirty-Laundry-Reloaded/

Greenpeace International (2012b). Toxic Threads: The Big FashionStitch-Up. November 2012.

http://www.greenpeace.org/international/big-fashion-stitch-up

Greenpeace e.V. (2012), Chemistry for any weather, October2012. http://www.greenpeace.org/romania/Global/romania/

detox/Chemistry%20for%20any%20weather.pdfGreenpeace e.V. (2013), Chemistry for any weather II, December2013, http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/20131212-Greenpeace-Outdoor-Report-2013-Summary.pdf

Greenpeace e.V. (2013b) Greenpeace: Bademoden mitgefhrlichen Chemikalien belastet (German). http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/Factsheet_Bademode.pdf

Greenpeace e.V. (2013c) Schadstoffe in G-Star Produkten(German) http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/20130408_Factsheet_PFOS_in_G-Star-Produkten.pdf

2All products were for children, while several were aimed atbabies and children under three. Garments, including swimwear,made up the majority. Four items were footwear.

3 Based on public representations by the brand at the time ofpurchase (e.g. via their public website).

4 Some were also tested for carcinogenic amines released underreducing conditions, which were not detected in this study.

5 For full details of the samples, the methodology and results, seeGreenpeace (2013), Technical Report

6 Sample number TX13094

7 Sample number TX13015

8 Sample numbers adidas TX13004; Puma TX13097 andTX13100

9 2 mg/kg di-octyl tin. See Oeko-tex, Limit values and fastness,https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/test_criteria/limit_values/limit_values.html

10 Puma website (2013), http://about.puma.com/wp-content/themes/aboutPUMA_theme/media/pdf/2013/PUMARSLMRSLV_01_13.pdf; adidas website (2013), http://www.adidas-group.com/media/filer_public/85/09/850915ac-f85f-4533-8e87-3c84c8093193/a01_sept_2013_en.pdf.

11 Sample numbers TX13003, 2420 g/kg volatile PFCs,TX13004 499 g/kg volatile PFCs, TX 13006 68 g/kg ionic PFC

12 Sample number TX13082, contained 6967 g/kg volatilePFCs

13 Sample number TX13108, contained 2346 g/kg volatilePFCs

14 Sample number TX13004, 0.855 g/m sold in Hong Kong

15 Sample number TX13023, 0.464 g/m

16 Sample number TX 13006, 15.3 g/m

17 Norwegian Environment Agency (2013), The sale of textilescontaining PFOA above 1 g/m in Norway will be prohibitedfrom June 2014. Although this item was bought in Germany,comparison is made with this limits as Norway is the first, andso far only, country to regulate PFOA in textile products. NEA(2013) Flere stoffer p verstinglista (additional substances added

to the priority list); http://www.miljodirektoratet.no/no/Nyheter/Nyheter/2013/November-2013/Flere-stoffer-pa-verstinglista/(Norwegian).

18 adidas Group Policy for the Control and Monitoring ofHazardous Substances A-01 September 1st 2013, 1 g/m (p.26) http://www.adidas-group.com/media/filer_public/85/09/850915ac-f85f-4533-8e87-3c84c8093193/a01_sept_2013_en.pdf

19 Carcinogenic amines were not released under the testconditions at levels above the method detection limit (


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Endnoteses

ous substances to the marine environment of the north-antic by 2020. NP has also been included as a priorityous substance under the EU Water Framework Directive.more, within the EU, since January 2005 productsations used by industry) containing greater than 0.1% of NPs may no longer be placed on the market, with some minorons principally for closed loop industrial systems. See

n et.al 2013, Technical Report, Box A.

PA (2004) Notice requiring the preparation andmentation of pollution prevention plans in respect of

s from textile mills that use wet processing (TMEs) and

henol (NP) and its ethoxylates (NPEs), under the Canadiannmental Protection Act (CEPA), 1999. Canada Gazette Part38, No. 49, 4th December 2004. http://www.ec.gc.ca/-p2plan/B2D19B6D-325F-458A-88E1-F69291E58DE3/

849.pdf

A (2010) Nonylphenol (NP) and Nonylphenol EthoxylatesAction Plan. Unites States Environmental Protection

y (USEPA), August 18, 2010. http://www.epa.gov/oppt/gchemicals/pubs/actionplans/np-npe.html

MI (2012) Proposals for new restrictions under REACH.sh Chemicals Agency ( KEMI). http://www.kemi.se/en/t/Rules-and-regulations/Reach/Begransningsregler-bilaga-oposals-for-new-restrictions/

P (2011). List of Toxic Chemicals Severely Restricted forand Export in China Ministry of Environmental ProtectionThe Peoples Republic of China, 2011.

www.crc-mep.org.cn/news/NEWS_DP.aspx?TitID=267&T00&LanguageType=CH&Sub=125

mark does not publish a Restricted Substances List http://bf.co.uk/responsibility/retail/environment

mple number TX13094

mple number TX13015

erican Apparel does not publish a Restricted Substances

.cit.

wdeshell et al. 2008, Lin et al. 2008). See Technical report

ekamp-Swan & Davis 2003, Grande et al. 2006, Gray et al.See Technical report.

erican Apparel and Footwear Association (2013),ted Substances List, September 2013, 13th Edition, p.40,

ates, https://www.wewear.org/assets/1/7/RSL13english-mber2013.pdf

erican Apparel and Footwear Association (2013), op.cit.

refers to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act(PL 110-787), which restricts each of the six phthalates DEHP,DNOP, BBP, DBP, DNIP, DIDP to 0.1%.

39 SAC (2013) a, National Standard of the PRC, Safety oftoys - Part 1 Basic Specifications, notification to World TradeOrganisation, Integrated Business Management Update:2013 -07-02 14:46 , http://www.sac.gov.cn/zwgk/wtotb/tbttb/201307/t20130702_138723.htm

40 http://www.cpsc.gov/phthalates

41European Commission, Guideline on the interpretation of the

concept which can be placed in the mouth as laid down in

the entry 52 of Annex XVII to REACH Regulation 1907/2006http://echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/13645/guideline_interpretation_concept_mouth_en.pdf

Regulation on phthalates in toys and childcare articles in Chinaand the US also do not apply to childrens clothing.

42 SAC (2012b) The safety technical code for infants andchildren textile products (edition for authorizing/approval).General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection andQuarantine of the Peoples Republ ic of China & Standardization

Administration of the Peoples Republic of China (SAC). http://www.cttc.net.cn/Upload/fck/E85819E943C6D099FFB911B819472341C442E47D.pdf

43American Apparel and Footwear Association (2013), op.cit.

23 Regulation (ECHA 2013). See Technical report.

44 adidas TX13004 0.28-106 mg/kg, Puma TX13097


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es Endnotes

ented human carcinogen affecting numerous organs.ke RN (2003), Acute and chronic arsenic toxicity. Postgrad2003 Jul;79(933):391-6.

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12897217

ed by the International Agency for Research on Canceras possibly carcinogenic to humans (group 2B),ally due to inhalation of dusts and vapours. IARC (1989).tional Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) Monographsmme on the evaluation of carcinogenic risks to humans:Organic Solvents, Resin Monomers and Relatedounds, Pigments and Occupational Exposures in Paintacture and Painting vol. 47, pp. 291306

enpeace 2013, Toxic Threads: Polluting Paradise

ch aims to promote products with a reduced environmentalcompared with other products in th e same product group.

2009) op.cit.

ey, C.N. (2003), Chemical Legacy: Contamination of theGreenpeace UK, October 2003, ISBN 1-903907-06-3,www.greenpeace.org/international/Global/international/2/report/2003/10/chemical-legacy-contaminatio.pdf

example: Oeko-tex, which has separate product categoriesnts and children as well as for products that have directntact which provide specific guarantees to the consumer.

example, M&S does not permit any biocidal finish on itsnswear products but for all products only triclosan is noted. M&S Restricted Substances List May 2013, p. 4:

corporate.marksandspencer.com/documents/how_we_siness/restrictedsubstancelist_may_2013.pdf

erican Apparel and Footwear Association (2013),ted Substances List, September 2013, 13th Edition, p.40,

ates, https://www.wewear.org/assets/1/7/RSL13english-mber2013.pdf lists countries which restrict phthalates ind childcare articles are listed asas the EU, the US, SouthDenmark, Egypt and Turkey Similar restrictions are

ed in China: SAC (2013) Toys safety, Part 1: Basic Code,75.1201. SAC (Standardization Administration of th es Republic of China http://www.sac.gov.cn/zwgk/wtotb/01307/t20130702_138723.htm (Chinese)

C (2012b) The safety technical code for infants and childrenproducts (edition for authorizing/approval). Generalstration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantineeoples Republic of China & Standardization Administrationeoples Republic of China (SAC). http://www.cttc.net.cn//fck/E85819E943C6D099FFB911B819472341C442E

df

84America n Apparel a nd Footw ear Asso ciation (2013) ,op.cit. ;SAC (2012b) The safety tech nical code for infantsand children textile products (edition for authorizing/approval).

85 WHO 2013b, op.cit.

86 WHO 2013b, State of the science of endocrine disruptingchemicals - 2012.

An assessment of the state of the science of endocrine disruptorsprepared by a group of experts for the United Nations EnvironmentProgramme (UNEP) and WHO, 2013, http://www.who.int/ceh/

publications/endocrine/en/index.html

87 Dorey, (2003), op.cit.

88The 11 priority hazardous chemical groups are : 1. Alkylphenolsand their ethoxylates (APEOs & APs) 2. Phthalates 3.Brominatedand chlorinated flame retardants (BFRs, CFRs) 4. Azo dyes thatcan release carcinogenic amines 5. Organotin compounds 6.Per- and poly-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs) 7. Chlorobenzenes 8.Chlorinated solvents 9. Chlorophenols 10. Short chain chlorinatedparaffins 11. Heavy metals such as cadmium, lead, mercury andchromium (VI).

89 IPE Chinese Institute for Environmental Affairs, which is theonly credible global chemical discharge disclosure platform.

90This means taking preventive action where there are legitimatereasons for concern regarding the intrinsic hazards of a chemical,even if information is insufficient to verify those hazards. It isbased, in part, on the premise that some hazardous substancescannot be rendered harmless by the receiving environment (i.e.there are no environmentally acceptable/ safe use or dischargelevels) and that prevention of potential damage is required, (NOTE deleted as duplicate of above). The process of applying thePrecautionary Principle must involve an examination of the fullrange of alternatives, including, where necessary, substitutionthrough the development of sustainable alternatives where they donot already exist.

91All brands need to take corporate responsibility for a clear

Individual Action Plan that identifies the steps it will take to followthrough on its Detox commitment and continuously review andupdate these steps.

92 Right to Know is defined (Is this our definition, of theuniversally accepted one? I read this to say that it is th atlatter) as practices that allow members of the public access toenvironmental information in this case specifically about theuses and discharges of chemicals based on reported quantities ofreleases of hazardous chemicals to the environment, chemical-by-chemical, facility-by-facility, at least year-by-year.

93This means taking preventive action where there are legitimate

reasons for concern regarding the intrinsic hazards of a chemical,even if information is insufficient to verify those hazards. It isbased, in part, on the premise that some hazardous substancescannot be rendered harmless by the receiving environment (i.e.there are no environmentally acceptable/ safe use or dischargelevels) and that prevention of potential damage is required, (NOTE deleted as duplicate of above). The process of applying thePrecautionary Principle must involve an examination of the fullrange of alternatives, including, where necessary, substitutionthrough the development of sustainable alternatives where they donot already exist.

94All brands need to take corporate responsibility for a clearIndividual Action Plan that identifies the steps it will take to followthrough on its Detox commitment and continuously review andupdate these steps.

95 Right to Know is defined (Is this our definition, of theuniversally accepted one? I read this to say that it is thatlatter) as practices that allow members of the public access toenvironmental information in this case specifically about theuses and discharges of chemicals based on reported quantities ofreleases of hazardous chemicals to the environment, chemical-by-chemical, facility-by-facility, at least year-by-year.

96 http://www.ipe.org.cn/En/

97 http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/toxics/water/detox/Detox-Catwalk/

98 Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Group, JointRoadmap, http://www.roadmaptozero.com

99H&M reports that From January 2013, PFCs were bannedfrom all our products globally. This means that all orders placedfrom 1 January or later have been produced without PFCs. H&MConscious Actions Sustainability Report 2012, http://about.hm.com/AboutSection/en/About/Sustainability/Reporting-and-Resources/Reports.html#cm-menu email 12 Dec 2013 from H&Mrepresentative Mattias Bodin.

100 By the end of 2013 . Report to the public the results of theAPEO investigation, including the detection levels and substitute

chemistry used (and how/why it was chosen n on-hazardousnessprofile). C&A Updated Individual Action Plan, 16 November 2012http://www.candacr.com/en/2012/11/16/updated-ca-individual-action-plan-in-the-frame-of-the-joint-roadmap-towards-zero-discharge-of-hazardous-chemicals-by-2020/

101 Puma aims to integrate the phasing out of hazardouschemicals in the supply chain as an additional element of theexisting PUMA sustainability scorecard, 2015 PUMA Individual

Action Plan v.2. http://about.puma.com/wp-content/themes/aboutPUMA_theme/media/pdf/2011/pumaroadmap.pdf

102 Fast Retailing Detox Commitment, 2013, op.cit. eliminate all

C7 and C8 PFC use by no later than 31 Dec 2013; and eliminateall remaining PFC use by no later than 01 July 2016

103 For example PFOS.

104 Such a regulation has been proposed within the EU, bythe Swedish Chemical Inspectorate, KEMI, see: KEMI (2012)Proposals for new restrictions under REACH. S wedish Chemicals

Agency (KEMI). http://www.kemi.se/en/Content/Rules-and-regulations/Reach/Begransningsregler-bilaga-XVII/Proposals-for-new-restrictions/

105 UNEP Global Chemicals Outlook (2012) Pillar I: Trends andIndicators, Chemicals Used in Textile Production, p. 14, the 42%is a fraction of all chemicals that used, including n on-hazardouschemicals.

106 REACH list of Substances of Very High Concern (S VHC)

107 Draft textile product safety standard, 6 kinds of phthalates(DEHP, DBP, BBP, DiNP, DiDP, DnOP) are regulated not to exceed0.1% by mass in articles.

108A selective list of some of the most comprehensive andstringent ecolabels currently available is provided in a recent reportby Women in Europe for a Common Future. See WECF (2013),op.cit.


19/21


Appendixdix

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

adidas

American Apparel

American Apparel

American Apparel

American Apparel

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

no article

Burberry

C&A

C&A

C&A

C&A

C&A

C&A

C&A

Disney

Disney

Disney

Disney

Disney

GAP

GAP

GAP

GAP

GAP

01

02

03

04

05

06

07

08

09

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

40

41

42

43

44

48

49

50

51

52

Hungary

Mainland China

Taiwan

Hong Kong

Colombia

Germany

Indonesia

Israel

Sweden

Philippines

Russia

Mainland China

Japan

UK

USA

Austria

Mainland China

Taiwan

Hong Kong

Turkey

Sweden

Spain

UK

-

UK

Hungary

Poland

Mainland China

Turkey

Mexico

Spain

Switzerland

Mainland China

Hong Kong

Spain

Thailand

USA

Hong Kong

Colombia

Greece

Indonesia

Japan

Thailand

Mainland China

Mainland China

Indonesia

Mainland China

Mainland China

Thailand

Indonesia

Thailand

Thailand

Mainland China

USA

USA

USA

USA

Tunisia

Mainland China

Mainland China

Thailand

Mainland China

Thailand

Mainland China

Italy

-

Tunisia

unknown

unknown

India

unknown

Mexico

unknown

unknown

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Thailand

Mainland China

Mainland China

Indonesia

Vietnam

Phillippines

Indonesia

trousers & pullover set

t-shirt

coat

shoes

football shirt

swimwear

t-shirt

top

t-shirt

t-shirt

swimsuit

leggings

baby body suit

sweatshirt

baby one-piece

swimsuit

t-shirt

camise

jacket

t- shirt

baby body suit

t-shirt

swimsuit

-

shirt

jacket

t-shirt

baby onesie

t-shirt

shoes

t-shirt

baby t-shirt

dress

fleece jacket

swimsuit

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

short pants

70% cotton, 30% polyester


shell 100% polyester; lining 65% polyester, 35% coton

upper coated leather; lining textile; outer sole rubber

100% polyester

shell 80% nylon, 20% elastane; lining 100% polyester

100% polyester

100% polyester



shell 80% nylon, 20% elastane; lining 100% polyester

80% nylon, 20% elastane

100% cotton


100% cotton

80% polyamide (nylon), 20% elastane; lining 100% polyamide (nylon)

100% cotton

100% cotton

Shell 100% polyester; lining 100% cotton

80% cotton, 15% nylon, 5% wool

97% cotton, 3% elestane

100% cotton

80% polyamide, 20% elastane; lining 100% polyamide

-

100% cotton

96% polyester, 4% elastane

100% cotton

100% cotton

100% cotton

Bovine leather, pig skin lining and synthetic outer soles

100% cotton

100% organic cotton

94.4% cotton, 5.6% elastane

100% polyester

100% polyester

100% cotton

100% organic cotton

100% cotton

100% cotton

100% cotton

100% cotton

not specified

Brande Place

of sale

Place of

manufacture

Kind of

product

Fabric

8.7


20/21


Appendixdix

GAP

GAP

GAP

GAP

GAP

GAP

H&M

H&M

H&M

H&M

H&M

H&M

H&M

Li Ning

Li-Ning

Li-Ning

Li-Ning

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Nike

Primark

Primark

Primark

Primark

Primark

Primark

Puma

Puma

Puma

Puma

Puma

Puma

Uniqlo

Uniqlo

Uniqlo

53

54

55

56

57

58

63

64

65

66

67

68

69

72

73

74

75

82

83

84

85

86

87

88

89

90

91

92

93

94

95

96

97

98

99

00

01

02

06

07

08

Israel

Turkey

Mexico

Philippines

Thailand

USA

Poland

Mainland China

Germany

Greece

Sweden

Spain

Thailand

Germany

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Argentina

Chile

Taiwan

Germany

Indonesia

Israel

Turkey

Sweden

Switzerland

Austria

Austria

Austria

Germany

Spain

UK

Mainland China

Germany

Greece

Indonesia

Italy

Turkey

Japan

Japan

Philippines

Turkey

Mainland China

Vietnam

Vietnam

Philippines

unknown

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Mainland China

Bangladesh

Mainland China

Mainland China

Vietnam

Indonesia

Vietnam

Turkey

Thailand

Vietnam

unknown

unknown

unknown

unknown

unknown

unknown

Indonesia

Turkey

Bangladesh

Mainland China

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Mainland China

Mainland China

Vietnam

t-shirt

swimsuit

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

t-shirt

dress

coat

t-shirt

plastic pants

bodysuit

sweater

sports shirt

sports top & shorts

t-shirt

dress

coat

t-shirt

t-shirt

shoes

t-shirt

running top

t-shirt

t-shirt

wind jacket

swimming trunks

sweatshirt

coat

t-shirt

shorts

sweatpants

shoes

football shirt

t-shirt

shoes

t-shirt

t-shirt

polo shirt

t-shirt

Jacket

Brande Place

of sale

Place of

manufacture

Kind of

product

Fabric


21/21

By Greenpeace East Asia Beijing Office

3/F, Julong Office Building, Block 7, Julong

Garden, 68 Xinzhong Street,

Dongcheng District, Beijing, China. 100027

Greenpeace is an independent globalcampaigning organisation that acts to changeattitudes and behaviour, to protect and conservethe environment and to promote peace.

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