Achieving performance and

esthetics in natural brands

Kimberly Burch

Definition of Natural

Pseudo Natural. No standard.

Pseudo Natural with a narrow

internal standard banning

specific materials.

Pseudo Natural with narrow

internal standard for

sustainability/ecology.

Truly Natural with broad

internal standard.

Truly Natural using recognized

broad third party standards.

Extreme Natural using their own

extreme internal standard.

*Source- WWD ‘Innovation to Drive Beauty in 11’ 12/10/10

How to Create Performance over Hype

“Only 37 percent of consumers

believe that beauty products

containing natural ingredients

are as effective as non-

natural products” *

*Source- WWD ‘Innovation to Drive Beauty in 11’ 12/10/10

How to Create Performance over Hype

Improve esthetics

LexFeel N Series – Natural silicone

alternatives

Provide desired efficacy

Emulsense – Truly natural conditioning

LexFeel® N Series

Natural Silicone

Alternatives

*Patent Pending

LexFeel N Series

INCI: diheptyl succinate (and) capryloyl

glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer

Ecocertified by the leading certification

organizations

LexFeel N5

Light, dry, cyclomethicone alternative

LexFeel N20, N50, N100, N200, N350

Matches the viscosity and feel of 20, 50, 100,

200 and 350 centistoke dimethicone

The Philosophy of LexFeel N Series

• Reactants are 100% renewable and sustainable.

• No solvents or petrochemicals of any kind are

used in the manufacturing process.

• One step process with high atom economy (98%).

Only water is lost.

• Water is the only reaction by-product. There is

no waste, and no release of any chemicals to the

environment.

• Non toxic to humans and the environment.

• All the sensory benefits of silicones, without

the health and ecological risks.

Reduction of Tack

Cotton ball test shows significant reduction in

tackiness by adding LexFeel N fluids to natural

waxes.

Orange Wax 90%

Orange Wax

+

10 % LexFeel N5

Test of Shine Enhancement on Hair

LexFeel N50

Dimethicone 50cs

Shine is

maximized when

the band-width of

reflection is

minimized.

Measuring the Band-Width of Reflection on Hair

Tresses

Test of Shine Enhancement on Hair

0

2

4

6

8

10

Wid

th o

f R

efra

ctio

n B

and

, mm

Reducing Refraction/Increasing Shine with Silicones or LexFeel N Series

Blank

Dimethicone 20 cSt

LexFeel N20

Low viscosity LexFeel N series has equivalent

shine effect as dimethicone.

Test of Shine Enhancement on Hair

LexFeel N350 has similar, but less shine effect as compared to

dimethicone 350 cSt

0

2

4

6

8

10

Wid

th o

f R

efra

ctio

n B

and

, mm

Reducing Refraction/Increasing Shine with Silicones or LexFeel N Series

Blank

Dimethicone 350 cSt

LexFeel N350

Effectiveness

Speed of Spreading

10.00

15.00

20.00

25.00

30.00

35.00

40.00

1 min 3 min 5 min

Sp

rea

din

g D

ista

nce

, m

m

LexFeel N5

Dimethicone 10cs

LexFeel N20

Dimethicone 20cs

LexFeel N50

Dimethicone 50cs

LexFeel N100

Dimethicone 100cs

LexFeel N200

Dimethicone 200cs

LexFeel N350

Dimethicone 350cs

Pigment Dispersions

LexFeel N Series better than Dimethicone for wetting

& dispersing

Makeup can be formulated with inexpensive untreated

pigments

0

10,000

20,000

30,000

40,000

50,000

60,000

Viscosity, cP

Ease of Making Pigment Dispersions

50% Red 7 Lake in Fluids LexFeel N5

LexFeel N20

LexFeel N50

LexFeel N100

LexFeel N200

LexFeel N350

Dimethicone 50 cSt

Summary – LexFeel N Series

• Oil soluble – should be added to

the oil phase of an emulsion.

• Not soluble in non-polar

excipients.

• Not a drop in replacement for

silicone.

Effectiveness

• Remarkably similar to

silicones, neat and in

formulations

• 100% Renewable & Sustainable

• Biodegradable

Formulation Guidelines

Emulsense™

The New Era of Natural

Cationics

*Patent Pending

INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate

(and) Brassica Alcohol

Emulsense

Composition: 65% Cationic; 35% Fatty Alcohol

Applications: Emulsions -- hair conditioning and

skin care

Appearance: Pale yellow flaked product with

melting point of approximately 58 C

Use level: 3.75 - 6.5%

Neutralization: Inherent pH is 3.5. Can be

neutralized with weak base to range of 3.5 – 5.5

• Reactants are 100% renewable and sustainable.

• No solvents or petrochemicals of any kind are

used in the manufacturing process.

• Neutralizing acid has a dual function:

neutralizer and catalyst. Therefore we use no

heavy metal catalysts, yet at the same time the

reaction conditions remain mild – moderate

temperatures and less energy consumption.

• One step process with high atom economy

(97.9%.) Only water is lost.

• Water is the only reaction by-product. There is

no waste, and no release of any chemicals to

the environment.

• Non toxic to humans & the environment.

Emulsense from Green Chemistry

Guidelines

• Like all cationic emulsifiers, it works well

with waxy structuring agents such as fatty

alcohols and glyceryl fatty esters.

• Can be added to the water or oil phase of

emulsion preparations and heated to about 75-

80 C.

• Addition of glycerin is recommended in the

water phase to improve stability.

• Compatible with all botanical oils, and a wide

variety of naturally derived emollients (e.g.,

LexFeel Natural).

• Not compatible with mineral oil, and certain

gums and proteins.

• Ideal neutralizing agent is Arginine.

Emulsense – Claims

100% Natural

Ecocert approved

Compliant with NaTrue

and NPA standards

Petrochemical-free

Palm-free

Quat-free

Readily Biodegradable

Non-toxic

Non-GMO

No animal tests

Non-irritating

Non-sensitizing

Sustainable

Blend Options:

Emulsense SC

Optimized for cost & efficacy, while

maintaining the unique skin feel properties of

the natural cationic.

Emulsense HC

Higher levels of Brassica alcohol, for ease-of-

use in making palm-free hair conditioners.

Emulsense™ SC

All-Natural Cationic Skin

Care

*Patent Pending

INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and)

Brassica Glycerides (and) Brassica

Alcohol

Emulsense SC – For Skin Care

Composition: 25% Cationic; 25% Monoester; 50%

Fatty Alcohol

Applications: Creams, lotions, sprays, body

butters

Appearance: Pale yellow flaked product with

melting point of approximately 58 C

Use level: 5.0 - 16%

Neutralization: Inherent pH is 3.5. Can be

neutralized with weak base to a range of 3.5 –

5.5

Why Cationics for Skin Care

1. Unique and dry esthetics (skin “touch”)

without the use of silicones. Charge-charge

interactions condition the skin.

2. High oil loadings without greasiness. Powerful

for emulsification.

3. High stability associated with soap emulsions,

without the high pH and skin barrier damage of

soap.

4. Long chain cationics proven to be safe and

non-irritating.

5. High consumer acceptance.

Sprayable Lotion

Emulsense SC

INGREDIENTS %w/w

A Deionized Water 84.30

Glycerin 5.00

Arginine 0.20

B Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassica Glycerides (and)

Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate

Emulsense SC 5.50

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Lexol GT-865 4.00

C Glyceryl Caprylate Lexgard GMCY 1.00

Total 100.00

BB-1019

Light Baby Lotion

Emulsense SC

INGREDIENTS %w/w

A Deionized Water 79.35

Glycerin 3.00

Arginine 0.15

Glyceryl Caprylate Lexgard GMCY 1.00

Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassica Glycerides (and)

Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate

Emulsense SC 8.00

B Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Seed Oil) Lipovol SUN 4.00

Heptyl Unecylenate LexFeel Natural 4.00

C Natural Lavender Fragrance Fragrance 0.50

Total 100.00

Rich Moisturizer

Emulsense SC

INGREDIENTS %w/w

A Deionized Water 56.85

Glycerin 5.00

Arginine 0.15

B Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassica Glycerides (and)

Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate

Emulsense SC 12.00

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Lexol GT-865 25.00

C Glyceryl Caprylate Lexgard GMCY 1.00

Total 100.00

BB-1020

Rich Moisturizer - Liquid Crystal

Formation

Emulsense SC

50 C

Formulation Tips

• Emulsense can be added to the oil or water

phase of an emulsion and heated to 75-80 C

• pH should be adjusted using a mild base.

Arginine is recommended

• Propeller mixing is suitable for stable

emulsions

• Glycerin improves stability

• Avoid gums and proteins

Emulsense™ HC

Truly Cationic

Conditioning

Truly Natural

*Patent Pending

INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate

Esylate (and)

Brassica Alcohol

Emulsense HC – For Hair Care

Composition: 24% Cationic; 76% Fatty Alcohol

Applications: Cream Hair Conditioners

Appearance: Pale yellow flaked product with

melting point of approximately 58 C

Use level: 6.5 – 16.0%

Neutralization: Inherent pH is 3.5. Can be

neutralized with weak base to a range of 3.5 –

5.5

Emulsense HC – Benefits

• Optimized blend of natural cationic and fatty

alcohol for consistent and stable results in

hair care products.

• Does not build-up on the hair.

• Improves wet combing and reduces fly-away.

• Suitable for palm-free formulations. No need to

use cetearyl alcohol.

Emulsense HC Test Formulation

Ingredients

Percent w/w

A Deionized Water 85.80

Arginine 0.15

B EmulsenseTM HC 10.25

Sunflower Seed Oil 3.00

C Spectrastat 0.80

Measure of Rubine dye after repeat

application.

Build-Up Test

Dye Intensity on Four Tresses

0.00

2.00

4.00

6.00

8.00

10.00

12.00

14.00

De

lta

E

First Rinse

Second Rinse

Third Rinse

Forth Rinse

Fifth Rinse

Sixth Rinse

Seventh Rinse

Eighth Rinse

Nineth Rinse

Tenth Rinse

Last Rinse - No

conditioner

Increase in tress width – five

tresses, 20 strokes.

Fly-Away Test

0 5 10 15 20

Percent Increase in hair volume after combing

Emulsense HC

Conditioner

Garnier Fructis

Conditioning Cream

Pantene Pro-V Daily

Moisture Renewal

TRI Princeton Testing

• Wet Combing – Garcia & Diaz (5500 tensile

tester)

• Repeat Combing – Customized Machine

• Static Charge Build-Up – Lunn & Evans method

• Tests compare Emulsense HC to unconditioned

hair, economy formula (1) and popular mass

market formula (2)

Wet Combing Test

Combing force exerted on wet conditioned hair.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

Combing Force (Max Load - gf)

Unconditioned

Control 1

Emulsense HC

Control 2

Repeat Combing Test

Breakage of hair fibers after repeated combing.

0

50

100

150

200

250

Number of Breakages per 10K Strokes

Unconditioned

Control 1

Emulsense HC

Control 2

Static Charge Test

Build-up of charge on hair after brushing.

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

Static Build-Up (V)

Uncondtioned

Control 1

Emulsense HC

Control 2

Emulsense HC – Highlights

Performance of synthetic conditioning agents,

yet with truly natural claims.

Conditioner formulas have the applications

properties (sensory, spreading, etc)

characteristic of market-leading conditioners.

Conclusion

The Emulsense and LexFeel N Series of products

give formulators the tools needed to create

natural products with performance.