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Acne Treatment & Care

Module 04

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4. Module 04: Skincare

Table of Contents

4. Module 04: Skincare ......................................................................................................................... 1

4.1 Skincare advice ........................................................................................................................................... 2

4.1.1 Avoid comedogenic ingredients ....................................................................................................... 2

4.1.2 Scar treatments ................................................................................................................................. 3

4.2 Caveman regimen ...................................................................................................................................... 5

4.2.1 Theory behind the caveman regimen ............................................................................................... 5

4.2.2 The caveman regimen in practice ..................................................................................................... 6

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4.1 Skincare advice

4.1.1 Avoid comedogenic ingredients

Comedogenic products block the skin’s pores and cause acne. When choosing skincare products, check if any

of the ‘highly comedogenic’ or ‘moderately comedogenic’ are in the first seven ingredients on the list of any

products you are considering. If you find them there, using that product could worsen your acne.

If the ingredients are contained further down the list on the back of the product, it means that only a tiny

amount is included in the product, and it still may be safe for you to use. Some people prefer to source

products that are 100% free from comedogenic ingredients.

Highly comedogenic

Isopropyl isostearate

Isoproryl myristate

Laureth-4

Myristyl myristate

Oleth-3

Moderately comedogenic

Acetylated lanolin

Acetylated lanolin alcohol

Butyl stearate

Cetearyl alcohol

Cocoa butter

Coconut butter/oil

D&C red #30

Deycl oleate

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Glyercyl stearate SE

Isopropyl palmitate

Isostearyl isostearate

Isostearyl neopentanoate

Laureth-23

Lauric acid

Mink oil

Myristic acid

Myristyl lactate

Shark liver oil

Soybean oil

Stearic acid: TEA

Stearyl heptanoate

Wheat germ glyceride

4.1.2 Scar treatments

Some people will develop scars after they’ve had acne. This is not always connected to the severity of the

acne they suffered from, as people have different responses to inflammation. Some people have a

‘secondary inflammatory response’ to trauma, and they are more likely to get scarring after their acne has

cleared up. Those with a ‘single inflammatory response’ tend not to scar.

To prevent scarring, first try to clear the acne. It is very important that you do not pick at your skin, as this is

the main cause of scarring. Leaving your skin mostly untouched is the best way to prevent getting scars when

your skin clears up.

If, when your acne is cleared, and you find you have scars, you might choose to find treatment to reduce

them. It is important to remember that many scars cannot fully heal, but they can be improved.

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Experts recommend that you do not take scarring too seriously, as it poses no threat to your health, and is

often seen more severely by the person who has the scarring than by others.

Some scar treatments include:

Topical creams– In gel, cream or liquid form, you apply them direct to the scar up to three times

daily. Alternatively, silicone gel sheets can be purchased and applied to the scar with pressure.

Microdermabrasion – Carried out at a spa or at the esthetician, it improves skin glow and

texture. A handheld vacuum pump creates friction against the skin with very finely ground

crystals at very high speed, which detaches some of the outermost skin cells.

Cryosurgery – In this type of treatment, cold liquid nitrogen gets applied to the scar for between

10 seconds to 120 seconds. Sometimes steroid injections are also used. The liquid nitrogen

freezes the scar and damages the tissue. After the tissue dies it is sloughed off and the area

becomes flat. Side effects can include blistering and permanent lightening of the skin.

Skin rolling/needling – A needle-studded roller, tattoo gun without ink or a 30-gauge needle is

used to puncture the skin. This induces trauma, which is then healed with collagen remodeling.

It can take up to a year for results to be seen.

Punch techniques – There are three types of punch techniques. Punch elevation cuts a portion

of the scar and levels it to the surrounding skin level. Punch excision removes the scar, then the

wound is stitched up. Punch grafting removes the scar, then replaces it with skin from another

area in the body, such as from behind the ear.

Steroid injection – Steroids can be injected into raised scars to interrupt the inflammation,

thereby reducing the scar.

Cytotoxic injection – An injection of antibiotics or cancer drugs is made into the scar to improve

its appearance.

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4.2 Caveman regimen

The caveman regimen is an unusual skincare plan that has recently gained attention in skincare online

communities in general, but particularly among those talking about acne online. Celebrities such as Alexa

Chung, Lady Gaga and Selma Hayek are said to follow this skincare regime. In this section we’ll discover the

theory behind the regimen, and what it is like to put it into practice.

4.2.1 Theory behind the caveman regimen

The caveman regimen has a few different variations. From the most extreme to the least extreme:

Not washing the face at all. Not letting water touch the face at all. Do not use any products on

the face.

Washing the face with only water. Do not use any products on the face.

Washing the face with a gentle cleanser or soap, but very infrequently, such as once a week.

Some adherents of this regimen say that the more extreme the approach, the better the results

The theory behind this skin regimen begins by talking about the acid mantle. The acid mantle is a protective

layer of skin that develops when you enter puberty. It’s made of sweat and sebum and it protects your body

from bacteria that could potentially invade your body and harm you. The pH of the acid mantle is 5.5, which

is slightly acidic.

The caveman regimen’s theory puts forward that we consistently strip the acid mantle from our skin by

washing it too often, using harsh chemicals with pH ratings that don’t suit our skin. This is one of the reasons

why the caveman regimen advises against washing the skin with bar soap, as it is alkaline, but rather washing

with a slightly acidic based product, if at all.

The theory goes on to postulate that as the acid mantle breaks down, the skin is less protected from irritation

and bacteria, and this leads to acne. Some people have even gone as far to say that sometimes we might

create acne, or at the very least severely exacerbate it, through the irritation we cause our skin with cleansing

products and excessive washing.

To counteract this, the caveman regimen advises against washing the face at all, and against using any

products, even natural products, on the skin. The theory states that letting the natural oils and sweat build

up and protect your face will eventually make your acne decrease or go away altogether. This is letting the

skin heal itself without interfering in any way.

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4.2.2 The caveman regimen in practice

The reason it is recommended that you don’t let water touch your face at all is because it can cause irritation.

In most places in the world, there are chemicals in the tap water, such as chlorine and fluoride, which can

harm the skin. In addition, water itself is quite drying. Washing with water on its own will dry the skin,

meaning that the skin will need moisturizer. As no forms of skin product are recommended during the

caveman regimen, it is better for the skin not to come into contact with water at all.

When you begin the caveman regimen, there will be a noticeable difference to the skin. For the first few

days, your face is likely to become very dry, very oily, or a mixture of both. Blemishes and zits may look worse

than they usually do, and you might suffer from breakouts. During this stage, it is especially important that

water is not used. Most acne sufferers wash their face twice a day and use a number of products to try to

heal their skin. As we stop doing so, the skin needs time to adjust. One of the first things it will do is build up

a dead skin layer, also known as a ‘dead skin mask’. This is not very noticeable, but may be dry, flaky and

itchy at first. Though this may give your skin a slightly rough appearance, it remains to protect your skin as

it heals, and it regulates sebum production.

Part of the theory behind this is that your skin renews itself every 28 days. Four weeks after beginning the

caveman regimen, your skin is likely to have improved significantly. At this point, some people choose to

wash their face with a gentle cleanser to remove the dead skin layer, but others maintain it is more effective

to let your skin shed naturally. By this point, your skin is better able to regulate itself and produce the correct

amount of sebum you need without creating acne. Inflammation in the skin will decrease. Any spots or

blemishes you have will be smaller and will go away more quickly.

Some people are reserved about trying this regime for many reasons. One is that people may find it

unhygienic, and worry that without cleaning their face more bacteria and dirt will find its way into their

pores, causing acne. The theory behind the caveman regimen refutes this, though.

Other reasons include that women might want to wear makeup, and the caveman regimen is not compatible

with skin makeup (though eye makeup is fine). Men would have to use a beard trimmer on the closest

setting, rather than shaving as usual. The hair has to be washed very carefully to make sure water does not

touch the face. Though a couple of splashes does not matter much, you will want to avoid anything more

than that. The caveman regimen is best alongside a healthy diet and exercise. Though irritation from the

outside is not always the cause of acne, it is often one of the factors keeping it going. That said, all other

causes of acne should also be explored, such as diet, lifestyle, stress levels etc.

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During the caveman regimen, it is advisable to focus on your skin as little as possible. If necessary, avoid

mirrors. Not focusing on the acne helps to lower your stress levels and stay on track. Many people find it

difficult to ‘do nothing’ for their acne, especially if they’ve been used to trying many different remedies and

strategies, but great reviews have been posted on acne.org, where this method is rated 4/5, and 63% of

people have rated it 5/5.