32
THE BEST GEAR FOR SUMMER > Tech on the run > e newest backpacks VOL. 4, NO. 2 | SUMMER 2012 | free | adventuramag.ca NATIONAL PARKS In your own backyard REID COOLSAET Leader of the pack EOIN FINN Surf, sand and yoga

Adventura - Summer 2012

Embed Size (px)

DESCRIPTION

Adventura - Summer 2012

Citation preview

Page 1: Adventura - Summer 2012

What It Takes to Bean Olympian

QUICK& EASYWEEKENDSHIKING AND KAYAKING IN HALIBURTONWILDERNESS ADVENTURES IN PUKASKWAAND MORE

KILLARNEY ROUNDKILLARNEY ROUNDKILLARNEYTHE CLOCKOne trail.One hundred kilometres.Twenty-four hours.THE BEST GEAR

FOR SUMMER> Tech on the run> �e newest backpacks

VOL. 4, NO. 2 | SUMMER 2012 | free | adventuramag.ca

NATIONAL PARKS In your own backyard

REID COOLSAET Leader of the pack

EOIN FINN Surf, sand and yoga

Page 2: Adventura - Summer 2012

The sea, lakes and forests of Bas-Saint-Laurent offer many opportunities for activities: rock climbing, whale- watching excursions,sea kayaking, zip lining, hiking and more! The Route Verte cycling trail, which is well established in this region, is ideal for cyclistsof all levels. At the end of the day, relax and enjoy the many good restaurants and charming inns in the region.

A MARIT IME REG ION OF QUÉBEC TO D ISCOVER

© P

hoto

s: P

. Can

ali,

P. M

acia

s, M

. Loi

selle

, M. D

upui

s/Sé

paq

Plan your vacation online!quebecmaritime.ca/GoToBSL

QM-BSL-Adventura-NEW:Layout 1 27/4/12 8:23 AM Page 1

Page 3: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 3

ContentSUMMER 2012

22“Life starts early at the Mfuwe Lodge. At sunrise I’ve

already encountered elephants traversing the lily-covered waters beyond our cabin porch. �e family decides to trek

through the shallow lagoon, the baby trailing behind the mother, just like in the movies.”

The sea, lakes and forests of Bas-Saint-Laurent offer many opportunities for activities: rock climbing, whale- watching excursions,sea kayaking, zip lining, hiking and more! The Route Verte cycling trail, which is well established in this region, is ideal for cyclistsof all levels. At the end of the day, relax and enjoy the many good restaurants and charming inns in the region.

A MARIT IME REG ION OF QUÉBEC TO D ISCOVER

© P

hoto

s: P

. Can

ali,

P. M

acia

s, M

. Loi

selle

, M. D

upui

s/Sé

paq

Plan your vacation online!quebecmaritime.ca/GoToBSL

QM-BSL-Adventura-NEW:Layout 1 27/4/12 8:23 AM Page 1

04 EDITOR’S NOTE

FIELD REPORT06 Reid Coolsaet : Leader of the Pack

07 Q&A with Eoin Finn : Surf, Sand and Yoga

10 DAYTRIPPER

14 Killarney Round the Clock One trail. One hundred kilometres. Twenty-four hours.

16 WEEKEND GATEWAY An avid indoorswoman gets outside her comfort zone and takes in a few adventures in the Haliburton Highlands.

18 NATIONAL PARKS In Your Own Backyard

20 LIVING LARGE

22 GLOBETROTTER Amid tall grass and scorched red earth, wild bu�alo, gira�es and lions roam across the animal sanctuary near the Mfuwe Lodge in Zambia.

GEAR24 Tech on the Run

26 �e newest backpacks for your summer adventures

MIND & BODY

28 What It Takes to Be an Olympian

30 LAST CALL  e Art of Fright

© D

onov

an v

an S

tade

n

Page 4: Adventura - Summer 2012

4 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

On May 27, Ryder Hesjedal became the rst Canadian ever to win a Grand Tour cycling event when he took the Giro d’Italia. He was behind by 31 seconds on the 21st and nal stage, but managed to nish the 28.2-kilometre solo race against the clock through the streets of Milan faster than Spain’s Joaquim Rodríguez, beating him by a mere 16 seconds. On a race spread out over 3,502 kilometres, three weeks and almost 92 hours of actual racing, this was not only a great win for Hesjedal, but also for Canadian cycling.

“I can’t even describe it,” team Garmin-Barracuda’s Hesjedal said a�er the race. If you’re new to the cycling race world, the Giro D’Italia is the second-biggest race in importance a�er the Tour de France. Just Google the names Fausto Coppi, Eddy Merckx, Bernard Hinault and Marco Pantani to see how big a deal this is. �e last Canadian to have put the Canadian �ag atop the chart in a big cycling tour was Ontarian Steve Bauer, who nished fourth in 1988 at the Tour de France a�er wearing the yellow jersey for ve days. �at was 24 years ago!

Congratulations came rapidly �om Lance Armstrong (who Tweeted, “Go¢a love it when the best man wins”), Victoria, B.C., mayor Dean Fortin and Prime Minister Stephen Harper. �is incredible feat by Hesjedal on a Canadian-made Cervélo bike should put cycling at a new level across Canada. �ough the tradition of road cycling is not as rich here as it is in Europe, Hesjedal’s triumph will give the Grand Prix Cycliste of Montreal and Quebec (now part of the UCI WorldTour, which organizes the world’s top road bicycle races) a well-deserved boost in a sport that requires so much dedication and discipline.

Add the presence of 11 Canadian riders on Team SpiderTech, which is led by Steve Bauer, and you’ve got plenty of �esh inspiration for young athletes in this sport. Hesjedal thinks his victory could encourage young professional cyclists and inspire many people simply to take to bikes because, as he said

to a Vancouver Sun journalist, “Cycling is nothing but positive for your health, your mind, your body and the environment.” Canadian cycling is at its highest level ever, and Ryder Hesjedal wants to help it stay that way.

We did a portrait of Hesjedal in our last issue of Adventura (see espaces.ca/page/adventura, page 7, for the full article). �e 31-year-old one-time mountain bike racer �om Victoria is now the man to watch in the upcoming Tour de France (he scored a sixth-place nish in the 2010 edition) and maybe even the Olympics. �anks a lot for the motivation, Ryder, and keep on pushing hard for all of us.

Chris Levesque, Editor @chrislevesque

CYCLING in a New Era!

///EDITOR’S NOTE

Summer 2012 :: Vol. 4 :: No. 2

PUBLISHER: Stéphane Corbeil ([email protected]) EDITOR: Chris Levesque ([email protected])SENIOR EDITOR: Stephania Varalli | [email protected]: Liz Bruckner, Ma¢ Colau¢i, Peter Dobos, Ilona Kauremszky, Mathieu Lamarre, Shelagh McNally, Vanessa Muri, Travis Persaud. PROOFREADER: Christopher Korchin TRANSLATOR: Christine Laroche COVER PHOTO: Jason Reale biking near Bolinas Ridge; Mt. Tamalpais State Park. Golden Gate National Recreation Area. San Francisco, CA. (© Justin Bailie / Aurora Photos)

ADVERTISING: Jean-François Vedeboncoeur, Sales Manager [email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext.27 Jon Marco¢e, Account Executive jmarco¢[email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext. 26 Michel Desforges, Account Executive [email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext. 29 Joanne Bond, Sales Assistant [email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext. 30

DESIGN: Sève Création, seve.caWEBSITE: www.adventuramag.caEDITORIAL DEPARTMENT: 514-277-3477 / [email protected] ADDRESS: Groupe Espaces Inc 911 Jean Talon St. E., Suite 205 Montreal (Quebec) H2R 1V5

CIRCULATION: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc., a division of Gesca Publishing Inc.ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS: ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions, which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its a¢ention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a �iend or recycle it.�e opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other sta¶ members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

JS0427121_TNF_ADVENTURA_SUMMER_2012_OD_HAVOC.indd 1 4/20/12 9:53 AM

Get Lean with Coffee BeansBY STEPHANIA VARALLI

Whether it’s a morning boost or a midday break, for many of us co¶ee is a daily must-have. You might be used to taking your co¶ee black, but if you want to shed some pounds, research suggests you try it green.

In a recent U.S. study, participants consumed just a �action of an ounce of ground green co¶ee beans daily. �e result? �ey were able to quickly lose over 10 percent of their body weight, without making any other changes to their diet or exercise regimen.

�e study followed 16 people, all classied as overweight or obese, and between the ages of 22 and 26. Over a period of 22 weeks, they switched between a high daily dose (1,050 mg) of the green co¶ee extract, a low dose (700 mg) and a placebo. With each participant cycling through all three levels of dosage, they acted as their own “control,” ensuring more accurate results. �eir caloric intake did not vary – right down to the ratio of carbohydrates, protein and fat – and they kept a steady level of physical activity throughout.

�e average total of weight dropped was 17 pounds, which amounted to about 10.5 percent of overall body weight, and a decrease of 16 percent body fat. To achieve these results in 22 weeks is impressive – losing an average of three-quarters of a pound a week can be a challenge – and it’s even more promising when the time spent on the placebo and on the low dose of the extract are considered. According to the leader of the study, Joe Vinson, Ph.D., the results might have been even more dramatic if participants had been on a steady high dose of green co¶ee beans throughout.

Presenting at an American Chemical Society meeting in March, Vinson hypothesized that the weight-loss e¶ects were likely due to chlorogenic acid. It is present in green co¶ee beans but breaks down during the roasting process. �at means adding an extra cup of joe to your daily routine will not have the same benets.

So is it time to go green? It’s hard to draw any solid conclusions �om a study of only 16 people, even though the results are encouraging. Vinson points out that this is not the rst time that the e¶ects of green co¶ee have been put to the test – just the rst time a high dosage has been examined – and similar studies have shown it can have a positive impact on weight loss. �e nutritional supplement industry is already on the bandwagon, with pills containing green co¶ee extract selling at around 60 cents for a 200 mg dose.

It might – or might not be – the next miracle pill. For now, add green co¶ee beans to the growing list of superfoods to keep an eye on.

© W

atso

n/W

atso

n

Page 5: Adventura - Summer 2012

JS0427121_TNF_ADVENTURA_SUMMER_2012_OD_HAVOC.indd 1 4/20/12 9:53 AM

Page 6: Adventura - Summer 2012

6 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

Plan your route on : www.bestgetaways.ca

FEEL LIKE A GETAWAY

• 4 BIKE TRIPS

• CYCLING TRAILS120 KM

SuroîtDestination...

Cycling Package

60$Starting at

One Night + BreakfastPer Pers./Double occ.

FIELD REPORT

Reid Coolsaet is leading Canada’s running renaissance. For the �rst time since 1996, our country will send a full team of three marathon runners to the Olympic Games. �e Hamilton, Ontario, native has had an impressive 2011 racing season, capturing four national titles and, perhaps more importantly, quali�ing for this year’s Olympics in London, where he’ll run alongside teammates Eric Gillis and Dylan Wykes. While extremely busy preparing for the Summer Games, Coolsaet found time between his drug test (seriously, our conversation took a short break as he took care of business) and his 200-kilometre running workweek to chat about the Olympics, his sweet new shoes and staying grounded.

�is year Canada will have a full marathon team for the �rst time in 16 years. How does it feel to be a part of this?

It’s great having teammates at the race. ere’s so many ways we can help each other out; it will be bene�cial for everyone.

Do you feel like Canada will be taken more seriously in the sport because of this?

Yes, it’s obviously a big move in the right direction. We have a full team for this year – we didn’t even have anyone in the last two Olympics. Not only do we have three of us, but there are also people coming down the pipeline. It looks good for the future as well.

When did reaching the Olympics become a goal for you to achieve?

You always dream about the Olympics, but it de�nitely became a goal in 2004. Once that summer came I ended up ge­ing close to the Olympic standard, which I never thought I would that early. en it de�nitely became a goal I had mapped out.

You’ve had a lot of success in the past couple of years, your name is now popping up all over and there’s even a documentary about your preparation for the Olympic Games. With all the extra exposure, how do you stay grounded?

I’m not grounded anymore! [laughs] When I think about running, it’s a pre­y simple sport. I know why I’ve had the success I’ve had, and I can’t let that slip away. I just live a simple life and focus on training and not all the extra stu�, and that has kept me grounded.

Why have you had the success you’ve had?A lot of training, consistent work, listening to my body and

staying healthy. Taking care of all those small details adds up at the end of the day.

Tell us about the shoe New Balance created for you.I race in the NB1400 shoes. And I have my own version of

the shoe, which is pre­y cool. New Balance has a Canadian designer working with them in Boston, and he asked me what kind of shoe I wanted for the Olympics. Obviously red and white were the theme colours. e insoles are actually a graphic of the �rst skateboard I ever had. And the side of the shoe has my last name, wri­en in the same style �om a skateboard company �om the late ’80s. It’s the best racing shoe I’ve ever had.

New Balance is also releasing the 890 Canada Shoe to support you. What’s the story behind this shoe?

It’s a new take on New Balance’s 890v2 shoe, with Canadian colours and the maple leaf design. And 15 percent of the sales goes to the New Balance/Speed River Spirit Fund that helps with our training.

What does your training look like leading up to the Olympics?Well, overall I will be averaging over 200 kilometres of

running a week until the marathon. Obviously, running makes up the bulk of my training. But we also do some strength sessions each week, some core drills and I go in the pool at least once a week as well. I typically enjoy the longer-tempo sessions the most, since they tell you a lot about what kind of shape you’re in.

Does healthy eating come naturally for you?Yes, it comes pre­y naturally. When you’re running a

marathon, and training for it, you’re eating a lot of food. e bulk of the food I eat is good – lots of �uits and vegetables. But I don’t mind eating dessert once in a while!

Reid Coolsaet

Leader of the PACKBY TRAVIS PERSAUD

© C

ourt

esy

Reid

Coo

lsae

t

Page 7: Adventura - Summer 2012

PARC RÉGIONAL MONTAGNE DU DIABLE [in creation]A MOUNTAIN OF ADVENTURES!Municipalité de Ferme-NeuveTo contact Les Amis de la Montagne du Diablewww.montagnedudiable.com877 587.3882

PARC RÉGIONAL DU POISSON BLANCSO FAR... SO GOOD!Municipalité de Notre-Dame-du-Lauswww.parcdupoissonblanc.com819 767.2999

PLEIN AIR HAUTE-ROUGEHEALTH TROUGH OUTDOOR!Municipalité de Rivière-Rougewww.pleinairhauterouge.com819 275.2577

1 888 560.9988

69228-CLD-Adventura Avril12_Mise en page 1 12-04-11 14:28 Pag

© C

ourt

esy

Eoin

Fin

n

Hosting workshops with names like Yoga with Belugas and Twisted It Sister, Eoin Finn is no ordinary yoga teacher. He’s worked with hundreds of pro athletes over the years, and has been featured in Oprah’s O Magazine. Travelling the world sharing his yogic wisdom and philosophy on bliss – also known as the Blissology Project – he stays grounded through his deep connection to nature, which he maintains by sur�ng and with all-important hammock “chill time.” We asked Eoin to share his path to yoga, sur�ng and, ultimately, bliss.

Which were you drawn to �rst, yoga or sur�ng? Oddly, they came the same year, in 1988, when I was in

university. Studying philosophy opened me up to the teachings of Eastern philosophy and yoga, which piqued my curiosity to learn yoga asana. �e same year, I was in Halifax and a  iend asked me to go sur�ng in minus-six-degree weather during a snowstorm. Life has never been the same since. Incidentally, the same year, I also learned tai chi, meditation and bought my �rst Apple computer. It’s funny that all these years later my most valuable possessions are a yoga mat, a sur�oard and my Apple computer – I can follow my bliss around the world with three simple possessions.

How does your yoga practice impact your sur�ng experience, and vice versa?

�ey in�uence each other dramatically. Being out on the ocean so much reminds me of the beauty of nature daily. My whole life mission is to let the energy of nature penetrate me so I can radiate it out as positive energy in all I do. I want people to feel deeply connected to the environment, because yoga asana is really about health and happiness. Nothing is as good for your health as time in nature. If you can combine the yoga practice with this same ecological sensibility, you will have a dynamite combination. Also, my focus in yoga is about being able to move well – now and

when we are old. �ese techniques have allowed me to move so much be�er now than when I was half my age. It’s remarkable, but I feel be�er at my sports than I did when I was younger. It’s counter to what we are generally taught, but it’s true.

What advice would you give beginner yogis and surfers? �e answer is simple: Let your yoga practice be about

feeling be�er than when you started. Don’t set goals that make you too  ustrated, like having to keep up with the bendy students in class. You have to balance your ego drive with truly listening to the needs of your body for this. Sur�ng, too, requires a big ego check because it is one of the hardest sports in the world and so humbling. Always remind yourself that there is true liberation in not taking yourself too seriously and enjoying the moment.

You travel around the world leading workshops. How do you stay grounded?

I think that the Indian idea of prana sums it up. Prana is what encourages the creative force of the cells. Travelling depletes it. Prana comes  om food, air and water, so this means taking extra time to �nd places that serve good organic food before travelling, and not eating most of the junk served on planes or at the airport. �e Food Awareness Commitment in the Blissology Project says it best: Eat food high on what we call the “prana-meter.” Make sure there are no chemicals or factories between you and your food, make sure it tastes good and makes you feel incredible a�er eating. Yoga also does wonders to rebalance you. I practise yoga in airports and on planes, and it makes so much di�erence.

Can you describe the evolution of the Blissology Project and where you see it headed?

�e Blissology Project is based on the Blissology mission of bringing more awe, joy, love and bliss into the world. It’s a 28-day program of �ve Blissology commitments: yoga, meditation, nature appreciation, food awareness and gratitude. All of these commitments are easy, but when you do them continuously they make bliss a habit. I am hoping that tens of thousands around the world will try the program, as it’s so powerful and fun.

Q&A with Eoin Finn

Surf, Sand and YogaBY VANESSA MURI

Page 8: Adventura - Summer 2012
Page 9: Adventura - Summer 2012
Page 10: Adventura - Summer 2012

10 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

The Green Performance

Astra Light 50The lightest technical pack in its category. Slylish and comfortable trekking backpack made from bluesign certifi ed materials. “Green Shape” is Vaude’s quality seal for products with a real eco benefi t. “Green Shape” products must consist of at least 90% ecological materials.

GermanSustainability award

Top 3 Germany’s most sustainable future strategies 2011

German

Distributed by

WITH THE MUD OF SPRING FINALLY DRYING AWAY, IT’S TIME TO BREATHE IN THE FULL EFFECT OF SUMMER. HERE ARE SOME ACTIVITIES YOU CAN START WHEN THE SUN RISES AND FINISH BEFORE IT SETS.

SADDLE UP FOR ADVENTURE BY LIZ BRUCKNER

Contrary to popular belief, heart-pumping mountain biking trails aren’t exclusive to the West. In fact, thrill-seeking bikers need only head an hour north of Toronto to Barrie’s Horseshoe Resort to score their next adrenalin fix.

With five trails that cater to newbies and pros alike, the runs roll and flow, peak and dive, all while offering riders an experience worth writing home about. The park is divided into two sections – moderately difficult and advanced – and while the first allows riders to snake unbothered down hills and over creeks, the second involves dodging trees, performing jumps and taking in more than a few drops. Each run is progressively more difficult than

the last, with the easiest being Trail One. It’s Trail Five, the most technical track, that serves up a smorgasbord of trail trickery, where riders encounter hip drops, step-ups and challenges at almost every turn.

Because the lift is of the do-it-yourself variety, bikers should be prepared to load and unload their wheels before riding it up. (Tutorials are provided, naturally.) Also of importance is the fact that trails here are sand-based, meaning that unlike many of Ontario’s other mountain-biking parks, even inclement weather can’t bring these runs down.

Activity: Mountain bikingLevel: Intermediate to advancedSeason: Summer and fallCost: Full-day trail pass is $29 and bike rental is $85. Guards and helmets are also available to rent.Gear: A helmet, guards and protectors are de rigueur and can be rented from the resort. Though bikes are available to rent, riders are invited to bring their own.Other activities: The resort also offers a skate park, zip flyer, climbing wall and maze, as well as OGO balls (three-metre-

wide inflatable balls in which you roll down a hill) and EuroBungy (a super-trampoline system where jumpers soar storeys high).Getting there: Take 400 North to the Dunlop St. exit, #96A (about 75 km from the 401). Turn slight right onto Dunlop St. W./Hwy. 90. Drive through the town of Craighurst. Horseshoe Resort is ahead on your right. Tip: Been a while since your last vertical run? A mandatory proficiency test will assess your skill before you head for the bike lift.For more: horseshoeresort.com

TORONTO

UP LUSKVILLE FALLS BY PETER DOBOS

The Eardley Escarpment runs along the southern border of Gatineau Park, providing some of the area’s most challenging and scenic treks. There are many places to enjoy the escarpment, and one of the best bottom-to-top hikes is at a place called Luskville Falls.

From the parking lot – complete with picnic tables and outhouses – you follow a maintained trail that winds its way up along a set of waterfalls. Said trail meanders away from the falls several times, leading you onto exposed

Canadian Shield rock. These spots provide beautiful views of the Ottawa River Valley, or a good excuse to take a breather, as parts of the climb are quite steep. All told you will climb 290 vertical metres from the parking area to the top, which is a respectable workout.

Once you are up, the trail turns left, flattens out and takes you to the Lusk Fire Tower. If you haven’t had your fill yet, you can continue along the trail about two km to McKinstry Cabin. This is a great spot for lunch and a rest, with a wood-

burning stove, firewood and outhouses. All that’s left now is the trek back to the parking lot, and it’s downhill all the way.

Activity: HikingLevel: Intermediate. It’s a steady, rocky climb, steep in places but not technical.Season: Summer (but great and different all year round)Getting there: Luskville Falls is about a 45-minute drive from Ottawa. Drive north

on 148 past Aylmer to the small town of Lusk. Turn right at the old City Hall house, then left into the parking area. Cost: Free Gear: Trail shoes or light hiking boots. A small backpack with snacks and drinks. Trekking poles may be handy for some. Other activities: PhotographyFor more: canadascapital.gc.ca

OTTAWA

MOUNTAIN BIKING 101 – THE GREENBELT BY PETER DOBOS

For all of you budding mountain bikers out there who are justifiably daunted by the rocky, hilly terrain in most of Gatineau Park: Take heart. A sane and painless entry into the wonderful world of mountain biking awaits you in Ottawa’s Greenbelt.

The specific area is the western Greenbelt, which lies between Ottawa and Kanata, extending south from the Ottawa River. There are no fewer than 13 parking lots that access different parts of this trail network, so getting to the trailheads poses no problem.

The most beginner-friendly sections would be the Greenbelt and Watt’s Creek Pathways, which start at P1 on the Ottawa River and head south past Highway 417. Flat and non-technical, these paths will nevertheless give you a taste of riding in the wild as you leave asphalt and traffic behind you.

For slightly more technical options, your best bets are to start at P6 or P11. Both areas offer somewhat more rugged yet still very flat and rideable double-track trails. Technical riding can be found in the myriad of single-track trails interspersed within and around the main network.

You cannot get lost for long, as major intersections will have signposts telling you where you are and which way to go. Complete trail maps are also located at every parking area.

Activity: Mountain bikingLevel: Beginner to intermediateSeason: Summer

Getting there: For P1: 417W to Moodie, north to Carling, west to Rifle, north to the river and P1.For P11: 417W to 416S, exit onto Hunt Club Road. Turn right. P11 will be on your left.For P6: Follow directions to P11. Continue past P11 until Hunt Club Road ends at Moodie. Turn left on Moodie and P6 will be on your right.Cost: Free Gear: Mountain bike, helmet Other activities: hikingFor More: canadascapital.gc.ca/places-to-visit/greenbelt

OTTAWA

HIKING WITH THE PARANORMAL BY SHELAGH MCNALLY

One of the last untouched ancient forests in Quebec is found just outside of Montreal. Rising 414 metres above the St. Lawrence valley, Mont Saint-Hilaire is Canada’s very first Biosphere Reserve. The mountain is covered with 400-year-old trees and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, including hundreds of species of butterflies, birds, plants, lichen and mosses. It also has more than 350 minerals, with 40 exclusive to the mountain. At the centre is the pristine Lac Hertel glacier, fed by three mountain streams.

Mont Saint-Hilaire is also rich with legends. Early settlers believed there was a volcano hidden inside and that Lac Hertel was bottomless. There are also three immortal fairies living in a cave, and the giant stone slabs at the foot of the mountain are actually a closed gate to hell. Farmers still watch the ice horse that appears each winter on the dark side of the mountain, and when it melts, they take that as a sign to plant their crops.

Mont Saint-Hilaire is also a central hub of UFO activity for Quebec, and there have been many “sightings” there since the early ’80s.

The reserve’s 25 kilometres of trails follow inspiring views of the rock formations and the valley below. The easiest trails are the Pain de Sucre (2.6 km) and Colline Brûlée (1.6 km) looking toward Lac Hertel. Dieppe (3.6 km) is a steeper trail leading to the incredible cliffs, including the 60-metre-high Tour Rouge. Rocky Trail (3.9 km via the blue trail or 4.8 km via the red trail) is the most difficult, taking about two hours to complete but offering panoramic vistas of Mont Bruno, Montreal, the Richelieu valley and river and beyond. You may even get lucky and spot some aliens or fairies along the way.

Activity: HikingLevel: Beginner to intermediate Season: Open year-round, with longer hours in the summer (the park is open from 8 a.m. to one hour before sunset)Getting there: Mont Saint-Hilaire is about a 45-minute drive from Montreal. Located at 422 Chemin des Moulins, it can be accessed from Hwy. 116. On the road, follow blue signs from Tourisme Québec indicating Réserve Naturelle Gault.Cost: Entrance fee is $5 for adults, $2 for children up to 17. Gear: Trail shoes or light hiking boots. A small backpack with snacks and drinks.Other activities: Photography, cross country skiing in winterFor more: mcgill.ca/gault/reserve/sainthilaire • centrenature.qc.ca

MONTREAL

DAYTRIPPER

Page 11: Adventura - Summer 2012

The Green Performance

Astra Light 50The lightest technical pack in its category. Slylish and comfortable trekking backpack made from bluesign certifi ed materials. “Green Shape” is Vaude’s quality seal for products with a real eco benefi t. “Green Shape” products must consist of at least 90% ecological materials.

GermanSustainability award

Top 3 Germany’s most sustainable future strategies 2011

German

Distributed by

Page 12: Adventura - Summer 2012

26065_Coppertone_Adven_02_DPS_ENDocket/Job: 26065Client: Schering Plough

Trim: 18" (w) x 10.75" (h)Safety: .5"Bleed: .25"

Publication: AdventuraInsertion Date: Summer 2012 IssueColours: CMYK

Art Director: Tianne Copywriter: AmyMac Artist: Mike

Canada’s most trusted† sun care brand helps you get out and get active with Coppertone Sport® – a waterproof and sweatproof formula that won’t run into your eyes and sting. It protects against UVA and UVB rays, so you can make the most of your summer days.

Spend more time outside this summer.

The Canadian Coppertone Summer. Enjoy it and stay protected.™

CoppertoneCanada

To make sure that Coppertone products are right for you, always read and follow the label.† Hellebusch Research & Consulting study conducted February 2012. * All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ® Registered trademarks of Schering-Plough Canada Inc. a subsidiary of Merck & Co, Inc. © 2012 All rights reserved.

coppertone.ca

26065_Coppertone_Adven_02_DPS_EN.indd 1 12-05-09 1:26 PM

Page 13: Adventura - Summer 2012

26065_Coppertone_Adven_02_DPS_ENDocket/Job: 26065Client: Schering Plough

Trim: 18" (w) x 10.75" (h)Safety: .5"Bleed: .25"

Publication: AdventuraInsertion Date: Summer 2012 IssueColours: CMYK

Art Director: Tianne Copywriter: AmyMac Artist: Mike

Canada’s most trusted† sun care brand helps you get out and get active with Coppertone Sport® – a waterproof and sweatproof formula that won’t run into your eyes and sting. It protects against UVA and UVB rays, so you can make the most of your summer days.

Spend more time outside this summer.

The Canadian Coppertone Summer. Enjoy it and stay protected.™

CoppertoneCanada

To make sure that Coppertone products are right for you, always read and follow the label.† Hellebusch Research & Consulting study conducted February 2012. * All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ® Registered trademarks of Schering-Plough Canada Inc. a subsidiary of Merck & Co, Inc. © 2012 All rights reserved.

active active that that

UVB UVB

coppertone.ca

26065_Coppertone_Adven_02_DPS_EN.indd 1 12-05-09 1:26 PM

Page 14: Adventura - Summer 2012

14 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

Play safe and enjoy outdoor activities Protect yourself from severe weather by keeping abreast of the latest weather reports and warnings issued by Environment Canada, any time, anywhere.

Mobile Weather Website: m.weatheroffice.gc.ca

Weather Website – weather forecasts and warnings, 24/7, and RSS service available: www.weatheroffice.gc.ca

Weather One-on-One – weather consultation service with an expert, seven days a week, charges apply: 1-900-565-5555

Weatheradio Canada: continuous weather reports on seven VHF frequencies at 162 MHz. Signal can be picked up by Weatheradio receivers, available at several retailers in Canada.

Keep an Eyeon the Weather!

I PULL OUT A SECOND STONE. �en a third. By now I’m wondering how he did it. �e only time he could have hidden the rocks in my pack was while I was at the park o�ce picking up permits. �at was at 9 a.m. Since then we’ve hiked for nine hours and covered 40 kilometres.

A hundred angry curses materialize in my head and then fade away. We are almost halfway through Ontario’s toughest hiking trail and I have been carrying  ve kilograms of extra weight the entire time. �e only thing I can do is laugh.

Besides, with the sun se�ing soon, we are at the point of no return. If we give up now, we can follow familiar ground back to food, comfort and the safety of civilization. If we continue, it means a long night of hiking through the most remote section of the park. We have no camping gear, only enough food to last us until tomorrow and no plans to rest until we’ve completed the trail.

We’re three hours north of Toronto, where an unassuming turno� on Highway 69 hides one of Ontario’s favourite wildernesses. Killarney Provincial Park began as a forest reserve �equented by the Group of Seven artists, but now sees over 100,000 visitors annually. Its highlight is the La Cloche Silhoue�e hiking trail, a 100-kilometre loop around the park perimeter. It’s remote, it’s wet, it’s hilly, and has a recommended hiking time of seven to 10 days. We are a�empting to complete it in 24 hours of non-stop hiking…

We wake up in tents at George Lake Campground on the starting day of the challenge. A light mist clings to the lake, the calm water broken by an early-morning canoeist. Tim cooks steaks as I perform triage on our carload of camping gear. We’ll be carrying only essentials in our small daypacks.

We chase breakfast down with an Oatmeal Raisin Walnut Clif Bar, since we each bought a case of them. With that, it’s time to start.

“Only 99 more to go,” says Tim cheerfully when we complete the  rst kilometre. Morale is high. We move through the �at, new-growth forest at power-walking speed.

�e easy trail abruptly ends at the base of a rock hill. Trying not to slow our pace, we climb up and around the broken slabs. I am panting heavily, but I feel good. Maybe we can actually do this, I think. We break through the trees onto a plain of broken rock. Beyond, the trail leads up �e Crack, a narrow canyon between two rock blu�s. We scramble up white rocks larger than minivans, and  nally get our  rst look at the La Cloche Mountains.

What we see is unlike most Ontario landscapes. Deep blue lakes stretch out in the distance, held in place by a line of rounded white peaks. Millions of years ago, before ice ages and erosion, the La Cloche Mountains were taller than the Rockies. Today, the chain has lost most of its height but none of its beauty. �eir characteristic white quartzite rock

– formed during the geological melting of the sand grains in sandstone – has made Killarney famous. Si�ing on a precarious overhanging rock, we welcome a break to snack on Clif Bars. It’s been three hours, and we are about a  �h of the way through the hike.

�ere is an alarmingly small amount of information available about hiking Killarney in hours instead of days. All hiking guidebooks strongly advise against speed; the Internet only yields a few stories of solo-athlete “speed �eaks” who complete the trail by running. On one hand, we know that 100-kilometre ultra-marathons have gained popularity in the last decade. Urban professionals and amateur athletes, always looking for a challenge to  ll the a�er-work hours, are now turning to events more extreme than marathons or triathlons. On the other hand, we have no idea if a pair of reasonably  t hikers would be physically capable of hiking non-stop for 24 hours. Our research amounted to  nding the maximum speed a human being can walk: six kilometres per hour.

Our bellies are full of Oatmeal Raisin Walnut and our legs are a li�le sore when we reach the point of no return. We remain optimistic. More importantly, neither of us wants to walk back along the brutal Silver Peak section we covered during the a�ernoon. Adding the three rocks �om my bag to a cairn, we continue into the wilderness.

///FEATURE Killarney Round the Clock

TRAIL KILOMETRES HOURS

110024I’m not visibly upset when I find the first stone in my pack. Tim, my hiking partner, watches with anticipation for my reaction.BY MATT COLAUTTI

@ O

ntar

io T

ouris

m

Page 15: Adventura - Summer 2012

Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy Play safe and enjoy outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities outdoor activities Protect yourself from severe weather by keeping abreast of the latest weather reports and warnings issued by Environment Canada, any time, anywhere.

Mobile Weather Website:

Weather Website – weather forecasts and warnings, 24/7, and RSS service available: www.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.cawww.weatheroffice.gc.ca

Weather One-on-One – weather consultation service with an expert, seven days a week, charges apply: 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555 1-900-565-5555

Weatheradio Canada: continuous weather reports on seven VHF frequencies at 162 MHz. Signal can be picked up by Weatheradio receivers, available at several retailers in Canada.

Keep anananan Eye Keep

Eye Keep

Eye Keep

EyeEyeEyeEyeEyeEyeEyeEyeon the

Eyeon the

Eyeon the

Eyeon the on the on the on the on the on the Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!Weather!

Quick Tips• Always tell a friend your itinerary and route when going into the

backcountry.• Know the limits of your group and respect those limits.• Water crossings swell after rain. Be very careful when hiking in the spring• The best time to attempt a 24-hour hike is during June and July,

when days are longest.• In general, the eastern half of the trail is more demanding, but the

western half is wetter.• George Lake Campground is popular during the summer. Reserve early.• For a post-trip meal, the stand in Killarney town (west of the park)

makes some of the best fish and chips in Ontario.

©M

att C

olau

tti

Day becomes dusk. Dusk becomes night. Suddenly the forests beneath the rock monoliths are ominous black shadows. We don fleece sweaters and headlamps and descend into the trees. Moving at a fast speed, it is a few minutes before I realize that the trail has narrowed considerably.

“Tim,” I call out with alarm, “when was the last time we saw a route marker?” We look around: just trees.

“All right, well, let’s go back.” Slowly we retrace our steps. We stop at each fork, one of us waiting while the other searches for the trail. A panic rises in the bottom of my stomach.

“Got it,” calls Tim. His headlamp illuminates a familiar blue plastic marker. A wave of relief sweeps over me. I celebrate with a Clif Bar.

From then on, our pace slows considerably. Without the aid of daylight, each turn in the trees is a probable mistake.

There is a stillness to the night that I won’t forget, a certain calm about the sounds of a sleeping forest. Nevertheless, the early hours of the morning are a blur. As if in a dream, I remember filling up water bottles at a terrifyingly black lake. Later, we climb carefully down the side of a gushing waterfall. I remember getting confused at a bog and heading in the wrong direction. At 1:30 I see a pair of eyes that quickly disappear into the night. At 3:30 Tim sees eyes. At 5:45 in the morning, at a wholly unremarkable point, we sleep in the middle of the trail for 30 minutes.

Day returns to Killarney slowly. From a dull grey the forest becomes green again. Despite the rising sun, our spirits remain low. The bottoms of my feet are sore, Tim’s knees are beginning to hurt, and a permanent fatigue has settled over us. I’m hungry, but the thought of another Clif Bar makes my stomach turn. We spot a deer. It bounds off into the forest. Neither of us raises an eyebrow.

The silence between us is broken only by the sounds of

heavy steps on the forest floor. Tim and I have been hiking partners for a while, and we have crossed through some pretty disgusting terrain and weather. I know that if Tim isn’t talking, he’s in a bad mood.

We almost crawl up a brutal portage of loose stones. Our already-soaked feet splash in a stream running down the hill. Near the top, we are stopped by a man headed in the opposite direction.

“You are incredibly close,” he says.In retrospect, the words are not entirely accurate. But at

the time, it is the encouragement we need. This is it, I think excitedly. I force down another Clif Bar.

As we get closer we pass young couples with clean packs and cheery optimism, happily unaware of the challenges ahead. We barely stop to say hello. All I can think about is the finish line that could be waiting around the next bend.

Finally, at 3 o’clock, we spot a familiar campground. Navigating around George Lake feels like returning to a past life. We reach our car, open the doors and take off our shoes. Oblivious to the stench of smelly feet, we collapse into sleeping bags. We made it. For the record, our time to beat is 28 hours and 34 minutes.

Did Killarney change us? Maybe. Right now I can only be certain that I never want to eat Oatmeal Raisin Walnut Clif Bars again.

The La Cloche Silhouette trail will always be one of Canada’s most spectacular backcountry walks. For a challenging week, or an even tougher 29 hours, you’ll be alone with nature. The trail will hurt – whether you’re carrying rocks in your pack or not – but it will also inspire. It’s that inspiration that we will return for.

Surely next time we will stay a little longer.

Page 16: Adventura - Summer 2012

16 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

BELŒIL - BROSSARD - LAVAL - OSHAWA - OTTAWA - QUEBEC - VAUGHAN

225 other models in store225 other models in store

AN AVID INDOORSWOMAN GETS OUTSIDE HER COMFORT ZONE AND TAKES IN A FEW ADVENTURES IN THE HALIBURTON HIGHLANDS.

Somewhere along the scenic six-minute walk �om Algonquin Operators Boatwerks’ equipment house down to the rushing rapids of Gull River in Minden, Ontario, I realized I’d lost my mind. Not only was I willingly subjecting myself to

throbbing pain – the surprisingly heavy kayak I was lugging le� an impressive dent in my shoulder – the closer I got to the sounds of the whitewater below, the faster I realized this was actually happening: I was about to take on rushing rapids in a plastic death trap.

Not wanting to ruin my thrill-seeking husband’s chance at adventure, I kept my mouth shut and when we reached the rocky shore followed the lead of our paddle school

instructor and got into my kayak. I was already in my wet-suit, helmet and life jacket, so I mimicked him and stretched the spray skirt – the rubbery getup worn around your waist to prevent water �om ge�ing in the kayak – until it covered the top of the boat, and waited for instructions.

First things �rst: how not to drown. As we bobbed along the shallow, tree-lined edge of the surprisingly temperate river, our instructor explained that a wet exit is the safest

way to leave a tipped kayak. He showed us the grab loop on the spray skirt, gave it a yank and o� it came. He �ipped himself into the water to demonstrate, then popped up and encouraged us to follow suit. We emerged successful and still breathing.

Next up, not tipping. Since keeping yourself upright is all about angle, proper lean (with your hips and boat, not your waist) and keeping the kayak parallel to the current �ow, I did my best to paddle forward and backward in calm waters without launching myself into the churning river. When I managed that, I a�empted the same moves in a more turbulent area. Obviously, I fell in. I performed a second wet exit, my instructor rescued my runaway boat and paddle, and I swam to the nearby rocky shore for a do-over.

A�er about 30 minutes of lean practice, bump rescues (where we held onto the instructor’s boat to �ip ourselves

up �om a tipped state) and a�empted kayak rolls (where using your core strength is rumoured to �ip you upright when you’re in the water), our fearless leader announced that we were ready to run a rapid. I was still nervous so hung back while my husband took the lead. Grinning �om ear to ear, he propelled himself to the base of the rapids. Some paddling here, some paddling there and he was riding the whitewater with ease. Convincing myself that it couldn’t be that hard, I waited for him to get to shore before I a�empted to show him up. With the instructor paddling alongside me o�ering encouragement and tips, I bobbed up and down for about 20 seconds without incident. �en a giant rapid found my boat, took me down – and that was that.

We spent the last 90 minutes of our three-hour lesson jumping o� of boulders, ge�ing carried downstream by the

rushing waters (so much fun!), and once back in our kayaks, merging in and out of rapids. I stuck to the calmer section at the base while my showboat husband cut his way through the water reserved for more advanced kayakers.

A�er we wrapped up, we met Barrie Martins of Yours Outdoors for a guided tour of the Highlands. �ough he o�ers exploration packages that cover everything �om the area’s geological features and art community to its Sculpture Forest and wild wetlands, we asked for a customized itinerary based on our a) exhausting morning, and b) uncertainty about which sites to visit. �ankfully, he complied, provided suggestions and chau�eured us to boot.

Our destination: Haliburton Forest & Wildlife Reserve, Canada’s �rst “certi�ed sustainable forest” with over 70,000 acres of lakes, rivers and trees, and a must-see for every tourist. A�er weaving through roads lined with trees,

HAIL HALIBURTON! BY LIZ BRUCKNER

WEEKEND GATEWAY + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

Page 17: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 17

BELŒIL - BROSSARD - LAVAL - OSHAWA - OTTAWA - QUEBEC - VAUGHAN

225 other models in store225 other models in store

rocks and rivers for about 25 minutes, we arrived at the Wolf Centre and once inside, lay eyes on seven beautiful and elusive timber wolves who call 15 acres of the forest home. Barrie revealed that he was a walking encyclopedia with many a wolf and forest fact, and, a�er snapping some photos and checking out the exhibits, we moved on to the Main Lodge.

Since we arrived a few weeks too early for the famed Walk in the Clouds forest canopy tour – it’s open annually ­om May to October and is one of the area’s biggest a�ractions – Barrie advised a guided hike instead. Along the way we detoured and met Hershey, the resident moose (yes, really), stopped to pet a handful of the over 140 beautiful dogsledding huskies, and then ventured into what can only be viewed as a haven for nature enthusiasts. With birds chirping and trees and green grass all around, we spent

hours walking up hills, over rocks and around rivers with Barrie leading the way.

A�erwards, we checked out the Forest Art Project, a chunk of the Haliburton Forest landscape dedicated to the wilderness work of local artists. While some pieces had seen be�er days – a wigwam that was constructed the summer before had been worked over by winds and probably a small animal or two – others, like faces carved in trees, were still picture perfect.

We would have been ready to call it a day but for one last, very important stop at Ontario’s only maple syrup winery, Moon Shadows Estate. With 20 ­uit wines to choose ­om and one that snagged a Crystal Cork award ­om the Ontario Wine Review, decision-making was di�cult. We ultimately went with a bo�le of Golden Maple vino and cracked it open for a toast: Cheers to adventure, and hail Haliburton!

PLAN AHEAD WHEN TO GO: �e Minden Wildwater Preserve is open to kayakers year-round, but AOB’s Paddle School operates ­om April to the end of October, seven days a week, and requires bookings over the phone. Private lessons are available, but clinics require at least two people per lesson. Haliburton Forest & Wildlife Reserve Ltd. is open year-round ­om 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., seven days a week.

WHAT TO BRING: When rapid riding, bring along any pseudo kayaking gear (i.e., wetsuit, water shoes, nose plug) you may

have. Cost to rent equipment (including a wetsuit, kayak, paddle, helmet, life jacket and spray skirt) isn’t steep – a three-hour lesson costs $60 without rentals, and $85 with – but you may as well wear your gear if you have it. For trekking through the Haliburton Forest, bug spray is a good idea ­om May through July, as are hiking shoes (or runners with ankle support).

WHERE TO STAY: Depending on your accommodation preference, options abound. For singles or couples, Stou�er Mill Bed & Breakfast (stou�ermill.com) in Halls Lake o¤ers a cozy se�ing in a round, country home bursting with charm. For couples,

Sir Sam’s Inn & Waterspa (sirsamsinn.com) is a picturesque resort located on Eagle Lake with 26 rooms, a full-service spa and many an amenity. And for groups, Bu�ermilk Falls Resort (bu�ermilkfallsresort.com) o¤ers a fully equipped co�age se�ing that overlooks beautiful Boshkung Lake and is stocked with piles of outdoorsy goods.

WHERE TO EAT: For surprisingly a¤ordable ¦ve-star meals, check out Twin Fires Dining at Sir Sam’s Inn in Eagle Lake (the chicken breast with prosciu�o, basil and mushroom riso�o is incredible) and Oakview Lodge (their ­esh Atlantic salmon ¦llet with �ai red curry sauce and Asian slaw will blow

your mind), located just outside of Haliburton (oakviewlodge.com).

FOR MORE: Go to boatwerks.net and haliburonforest.com for directions, additional activities and events. For guided tours of the Haliburton area, check out yoursoutdoors.ca, where you’ll ¦nd added information on Highlands’ activities, like cycling festivals, hiking trails and more.

AOB Paddling School (705-286-1332 • boatwerks.net)Haliburton Forest and Wildlife Reserve (705-754-2198 • haliburtonforest.com)

WEEKEND GATEWAY + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

© O

ntar

io T

ouris

m

Page 18: Adventura - Summer 2012

18 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK OntarioBEST FEATURES: Escaping civilization in the backcountry, discovering Canada’s heritage in the �ontcountry.

Bordering the northern Canadian Shield forests and located on the shores of Lake Superior, Pukaskwa National Park o�ers wilderness hiking, camping, kayaking, boating and �shing. Its pristine boreal forest has a mix of broadleaf trees and is home to hare, moose, grouse, lynx, wolf and black bear. �ere is also a small endangered Woodland Caribou herd being tracked.

Pukaskwa’s boulder beaches are covered with mysterious, weathered rock structures. Obviously man-made, their true purpose has been lost through time. �is was a site of the Anishinaabe tribe for hundreds of years and remained untouched until the 1880s, when miners came in search of amethyst and gold (nearby Hemlo Fields is one of Canada’s largest gold deposits). Loggers soon followed to harvest ancient trees in the nearby forests. Today, the area is a Federal Park protected zone.

Ha�ie Cove is the main campground, with 97 sites (only 29 with electricity). If you don’t feel like venturing into the backcountry, there are options for day hikes and local activities. �e Artist in the Park program welcomes Ontario artists who o�er art workshops and exhibits at the Ha�ie Cove Visitor Centre, or learn about Anishinaabe culture by visiting an authentic encampment with a First Nations interpreter.

�e cove itself has peaceful waters to explore with inlets leading to smaller islands, such as Onion Island, now home to a colony of beavers. �ere is also a healthy population of loons and other migratory birds who come to nest in the summer. �is is one of the best areas to observe herons nesting in their rookeries.

�ere is also a more remote route along the shore of Lake Superior, with primitive campsites o�ering only the basics (a tent pad, bear box, privy and �re pit). Experienced hikers will enjoy the 60-km challenge of the Coastal Hiking Trail, which leads through backcountry terrain and o�ers solitude mixed with breathtaking views. �e park limits the number of people allowed into the backcountry each season, which means reservations are a must.

For backcountry camping reservations, call 807-229-0801, ext. 242. For more information on facilities, fees, maps and activities, check out pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/on/pukaskwa/index.aspx

PARC NATIONAL DES ÎLES-DE-BOUCHERVILLE QuébecBEST FEATURES: It only takes 10 minutes to escape to nature.

A few kilometres �om Montreal, right in the middle of the St. Lawrence River, is a necklace of �ve li�le islands. Together, Île Sainte-Marguerite, Île Saint-Jean, Île à Pinard, Île de la Commune and Île Grosbois make up the Parc national des Îles-de-Boucherville, one of Quebec’s 23 provincial parks. Hikers, cyclists and kayakers ¤ock here for a break �om the bustle of the city.

�is idyllic park is a mix of forest, grasslands, marshes and channels teeming with life. A 21-km network of trails allows cyclists and hikers to share the same path, and the relatively ¤at relief of the islands makes them an ideal location for family biking. �ere are close to 120 white-tailed deer in the park,

and in morning or early evening you can see their heads peeking out of the forests running parallel to the trails. Île Sainte-Marguerite, open only to hikers, has 10 km of rustic trails following the shore and heading into the forests.

Around the outer edges of Île Saint-Jean, Île à Pinard and Île de la Commune is a picturesque, eight-km marked water trail that takes about three hours to complete. �e waters here are protected �om the stronger currents of the St. Lawrence, so paddling is leisurely. Île à Pinard also has an 18-hole public golf course. �e park rents excellent kayaks and bikes at a reasonable rate, and the entrance fee is just $6 per person. Roughly a 10-minute drive �om the city, it’s easily accessible by car, and in the summer there is also a water taxi (navark.ca) heading �om Montreal to the park.

For information on rental rates, weather and driving directions, check out sepaq.com.

SILENT LAKE OntarioBEST FEATURES: �e hush of deep tranquillity.

Silent Lake is a glacier lake just outside the northern Ontario city of Bancro§. Landlocked and undeveloped, the lake has the unmistakeable tranquillity of a Canadian Shield forest. For 40 years, it was the private playground of American �shermen and hunters before being bought by the Ontario government and turned into a provincial park.

Swim in the cool, clear waters of this lake at two of the sandy beaches – one reserved for day visitors and another for campers. Expect to see �shermen here since the area is still known for its trout and bass.

A number of trails have been established throughout the park. �e Lakehead Loop (1.5 km) is the easiest trail and suitable for family hiking. It crosses Silent Creek, meandering through a forest of hemlock, maple and red oak to arrive at a scenic view of Silent Lake. Bonnie’s Pond Trail (3 km) is a moderate trail that travels through a beech-tree forest, leading to a spectacular lookout. For a more strenuous hike, try the 15-km Lakeshore

///FEATURE PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK

Exotic is something usually associated with faraway places, but wonder can often be found in our own backyard. We’re highlighting four unique parks in Quebec and Ontario, each with something special to offer. So instead of flying off this summer, pack up your gear and check out the great Canadian outdoors.

IN YOUR OWN BackyardBY SHELAGH MCNALLY

© O

ntar

io T

ouris

Jea

n-Sé

bast

ien

Perr

on

PARC NATIONAL DES ÎLES-DE-BOUCHERVILLE

Page 19: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 19

HORIZON X RAFTING AND KAYAK Discover the most exciting whitewater adventures on the Ottawa River! Horizon X offers Canada’s only full moon rafting trips! Experience the thrill of rafting by day or under the moonlight sky. Looking for more excitement? Try our riverboarding, the most fun you can have in a bathing suit!

819-648-2727 // 1-866-695-2925horizonx.ca

NATI

ONAL

CAP

ITAL

COM

MIS

SION

HORI

ZON

X

CAMPING AND CABINS IN GATINEAU PARK Prolong your adventure in Gatineau Park by staying the night! There are three campgrounds located at Philippe Lake, Taylor Lake and La Pêche Lake. Reserve one of the Gatineau Park’s cabins or yurts! Take part in a range of outdoor activities, such as hiking, swimming, boating, cycling and more!

819-827-20201-866-456-3016Reservations.gatineaupark.ca

WAKEFIELD MILL HOTEL & SPAJust step outside our front door and embrace the specta cular natural beauty of Gatineau Park – 36,100 hectares of unspoiled forests, lakes, and rivers, only 25 minutes from Gatineau-Ottawa.

819-459-1838 1-888-567-1838wakefi eldmill.com

VISIT OUTAOUAISTOURISM.COM/OUTDOOR TO PLAN YOUR SUMMER GETAWAY! // 1-800-595-2103

NCC-

CCN

WAK

EFIE

LD M

ILL

HOTE

L &

SPA

PARC MARIN DU SAGUENAY– SAINT-LAURENT QuébecBEST FEATURES: A rare opportunity to spot some whales.

Water babies will enjoy the Parc marin du Saguenay–Saint-Laurent, where the waters of the St. Lawrence Estuary and the Saguenay Fjord join to foster an area of immense biological diversity. �is is one of the few places on the planet where you can observe the blue whale.

�e 1,245-sq-km marine park is subdivided into three zones: the St. Lawrence River Estuary, the Saguenay River Fjord, and the Con�uence where their waters meet. �e St. Lawrence Estuary follows the steep cli�s of the shore, and its long tidal �ats are shelter for a variety of seabirds. You can meander along the shore here watching osprey, geese and other wildlife. �is area is also becoming a northern scuba diving mecca because of the wide variety of sea life fostered by its cold waters and rocky �oor.

Tadoussac holds the heart of the marine park – the Con�uence – where the turquoise waters of the St. Lawrence River Estuary mix with the deeper salt waters of the Saguenay River. �is powerful collision creates a hypnotic e�ect of e�ervescent standing waves and plumes of white lines across the entire �ord. Fish, whales and seals are drawn to feed on the abundant plankton and other marine life. For your best view of the whales in the area, try a sea cruise.

�e Saguenay Fjord was once a glacial valley. Today, massive cli�s rise up along the shore, covered with birds resting a�er feeding on the abundant �sh. Each time the tide comes in, the salt water sinks below the less dense �esh water of the Saguenay River before making its way upstream. Tides, winds and currents are constantly shi�ing in this area, so sailing and kayaking are challenging; if you want to test the waters, hiring a guide is strongly recommended, and novice kayakers should opt for a sea cruise or take one of the ferries to see the wildlife instead.

For information on weather, links to tide tables and directions, check out sepaq.com.

Hiking Trail that passes through di�erent forests and ancient rock formations onto a cli� outlook. Mountain bikers can travel on well-groomed seven-km or 12-km trails that are moderately challenging, or take the more strenuous 19-km route.

Motorboats are banned �om this lake, but canoes and kayaks are welcome. In fact, the rocky shoreline is best explored by kayak. Traverse the small islands and marshes to see the many birds, o�er, mink and beaver �olicking along the shoreline.

For more information on facilities, fees, weather and directions, check out ontarioparks.com/english/sile.html

SILENT LAKE

Page 20: Adventura - Summer 2012

20 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

WOLFE ISLAND TRAILS TORONTOBY ILONA KAUREMSZKYSurrounded by conifer-laden islets, Wolfe Island in the Land O’ Lakes region is the gateway to the St. Lawrence Seaway. �e biggest among the �ousand Islands (30 kilometres long, with thankfully li�le tra�c), it’s also big on adventure: Summer is when cyclists, yoga bu�s and canoeists dri� onto its sandy shores for outdoor fun. Don’t be surprised when crime novelist fans arrive, either: Canada’s Scene of the Crime Festival (sceneo�hecrime.ca), a hot spot for mystery readers, is hosted here each August.

R&R Hosts Wendy and Darin, both yoga veterans, welcome visitors to commune with Mother Nature at their spacious century inn, Shanti Retreat ($300 for two nights, meals and yoga classes • 613-385-9912 • shantiretreat.ca). Situated on an 11-acre water�ont property, the informal se�ing has shared semi-private rooms styled in soothing tones, with a calming e�ect that’s ideal for a yoga retreat. By day, hit a yoga class, lounge in the lakeside hammock, leaf through your favourite book (perhaps a mystery?) and watch the resident herons �y by. �ere’s another bed and breakfast �nd only a three-minute walk �om the ferry dock: the renovated Dreamcatcher’s Inn (from $110 • 613-385-2635 • dreamcatchers-inn.com). Colourful dreamcatchers, a nod to innkeeper Larry’s Mohawk roots, add the personal touch to this heritage home that the Maracles warmly share among their guests.

EAT�e Shanti Retreat celebrates homegrown, �esh, seasonal produce served in a �iendly bu�et style. Wildlife viewing is popular in the indoor dining nook. �e outdoor water�ont patio, with its umbrella-topped tables, has great vantage points for sunset viewing. On Main Street, �e Island Grill (mains average $10 • 613-385-2157 • wolfeislandgrill.com) is where foot-long hotdogs, nachos, huge bison burgers and ice-cold Beau’s Lugtread on tap are served. �is popular pub hangout doubles as a venue during the island’s MusicFest in August and books local groups throughout the summer.

PLAYCYCLING: If all roads lead to Rome, then all cycling routes in Wolfe Island begin at the Wolfe Island Tourist Information Centre in the village of Marysville. Download a cycling map and you’re o� (Wolfe Island Business and Tourism Association • 613-385-1875 • wolfeisland.com). Among the three marked routes, our favourite is the 28-km Bu�on Bay Loop that winds by coastlines, past farm country, a golf course and has ample wildlife sightings like deer, turtles, wild turkeys, even bu�alo in a pen. See vestiges of an old schoolhouse, a cemetery, an old TV tower and the latest addition, a huge wind farm on the island’s west side. Extended day rides are popular, too.

HIKING: �e Big Sandy Bay Management Area, a 404-hectare day-use area located on the island’s southerly tip, is a favourite among hikers looking to experience the rare coastal ecology. Start your adventure on the easy 1.3-kilometre Bu�on Bush Trail through wetlands and woodlands, taking you down to the shore (day passes are $6 for cyclists, $8 if you drive • bigsandybay.ca). By the beach you can explore some sand dunes, or join the body surfers hi�ing the waves in this eco-paradise.

STRIKING ALLUMETTE ISLAND OTTAWABY ILONA KAUREMSZKYWith its aboriginal archaeological discoveries, UFO sightings and extensive underwater cave system, this tiny island – a mere 22 kilometres by 12 kilometres – doesn’t lack for excitement. Found among a string of islets north of Pembroke, Ontario, Allume�e is the O�awa River’s largest island and a summer haven for cyclists, hikers and paddlers. Originally an Algonquin se�lement, then a logging community and brie�y a hippie haven in the ’60s, it has now morphed into co�age country, with bright summer skies and enticing starry nights.

R&RWith extended-stay co�ages as the norm, weekend getaway types o�en head to nearby Pembroke for overnights. We prefer the private camping quarters new ou¤i�er Adventure Source Expeditions ($12 per person • 613-602-2267 • o�awa-river-camping.com) has launched on Allume�e. Set on three acres, the 15 rustic sites are unmarked, so you can choose which oak tree you want your tent propped under.

�ere’s a porta-po�y on the premises, plus canoe and kayak rentals (full day $20). If you’re craving a remote camp se�ing with possible bear sightings and the odd moose or deer encounter, Brennan’s Recreational Farms (�om $400 per weekend • 819-689-2642 • brennanadventures.com) in Sheenboro, Quebec, is about a 25-minute drive �om the Chapeau Bridge crossing to Allume�e Island. �is longstanding, family-run business features four basic cabins; we dig the Brennan’s Blu� camp, perched 250 metres atop a cli�, with two bedrooms and space for 10 guests. �ere are great sunsets, Northern Lights viewing is possible on clear nights, and horseback riding is another fun diversion ($50, lesson and a 2.5-hour tour to the blu� peak included).

EATMurals of the old town deck the walls of Chapeau’s River Club (819-689-5311 • riverclub.ca). �is large, country-style eatery has an eclectic menu ranging �om locally sourced prime rib ($25) to cheese-drenched spicy nachos ($15). �ere’s live entertainment on weekends, and the outdoor patio is packed in the summer, o�ering a view of nature �om behind a mosquito screen. Ten minutes east on Hwy. 148, a historic train station has been converted into the 50-seat Waltham Station Restaurant (819-689-5161), where owner/chef Rosann Chaput’s homemade cooking includes a can’t-miss assortment of pies. �e �xed-price menu changes daily, but Wednesday nights her three-course spaghe�i dinner ($7.75) has been a staple for years.

PLAYCYCLING: A well-marked, 62-km intermediate circuit, maintained by the Cycloparc PPJ (cycloparcppj.org), winds around the entire island with an option to cycle into the Outaouais. Half paved and half gravel, the bike path follows alongside a country road on the shores of the O�awa River. �ere’s a great view of the Laurentians at the north end, plus picturesque farm country to enjoy.

CANOEING/KAYAKING: In this whitewater capital, ou¤i�er Murphy �rop �om Adventure Source Expeditions can customize full-day canoe and kayak tours for all levels (�om $60 for boat, lunch, transfers • ottawa-river-camping.com). Right �om the campground, four channels open to rapids, giving you plenty of options – �om island excursions to trips to the Coulonge or Noir rivers – for a day of adventure.

We here at ADVENTURA love summer (who doesn’t?), because after months of hibernation, it’s a time when we can really enjoy the outdoors without having to worry too much about the weather... it’s simply a time to soak up the sun (with protection, of course). Here are three mini-holidays to help you live it up large – because the hottest season of the year will be over before you know it.

© D

an B

arne

s

© J

oshu

a Ho

dge

Page 21: Adventura - Summer 2012

PARCS QUÉBEC

From one end of Québec to the other, all23 national parks of the Parcs Québecnetwork offer you an impressive array ofoutdoor activities. Come and camp at theheart of the most beautiful protectedterritories where Mother Nature proposesboth adventure and repose.

ESCAPE INTO THEWIDE-OPEN SPACES

Why wait? Plan your stay today!www.parksquebec.com | 1 800 665-6527

Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, Luc Rousseau

Phot

os : M

athi

eu D

upui

s

Huttopia Tent

PGIMP-153_PQ_Pub2-3pAdventura_Layout 1 12-05-03 09:30 Page1

MONT RIGAUD MONTREALBY ILONA KAUREMSZKYLess than an hour �om Montreal, in the heart of sugar shack country, an urban ski hill is o�ering some serious summer thrills. With the snow gone and the sun out, climbers, mountain bikers, zip-liners and other adventure-seekers �ock to Mont Rigaud to enjoy some action among the maple forests.

R&R Owned by Pierre Labelle, the Auberge de Mont Rigaud ($120 a night with breakfast • 1-866-451-2202 • aubergemont-rigaud.ca) has 15 quaint rooms, with a fabulous panoramic view of the region, and some nice walking trails in the surrounding forest. �e auberge – formerly a priest’s rectory – o�ers seclusion in this urban getaway (but you still get a �atscreen TV and Wi-Fi). An outdoor pool makes for a re�eshing start to the day, if you’re not too full a�er the big breakfast. For hardy folk who enjoy bush living, the Sucrerie de la Montagne ($135 a night includes dinner and breakfast • 450-451-0831 • sucreriedelamontagne.com) has four log cabins, cozily furnished with old rocking chairs and quilts that look like grandma made them. Owner Pierre Faucher is ready to entertain his guests in a traditional French Canadian way. �ere’s plenty of activity in this idyllic se�ing, and you’ll be ready for anything a�er a full breakfast with his signature maple-syrup-dosed pancakes.

EATFamily business Maison du Déicheur (1-866-451-5809 • defricheur.com) has a warm �iendly atmosphere that’s a favourite among locals, but folks come �om as far as eastern Quebec to sample the sumptuous table d’hôte menu ($31.50–$42.50) with its selection of six starters and six mains. Owner and chocolate maker Jean-Louis Co�in makes ar�ul creations using only the �nest French chocolate (prices vary, �om $1 for a lollipop up to $100 for a large chunk). Situated in a historic home in nearby Hudson, the upscale casual Restaurant Mon Village (450-458-5331 • restaurantmonvillage.com) is known for its hospitality and amazing house specialty: Angus beef. Choose �om the laid-back pub or the 40-seat main dining room, or if you feel like a summer breeze head outside to the terrace. Don’t miss the prime rib, which is specially aged, seasoned and slow-oven-cooked ($22.95 for eight oz).

PLAYADVENTURE PARK: Local operator Mont Rigaud Acrobranche Park (514-990-1286 • montrigaud.com/parc-acrobranche/en/index.php) o�ers a mix of activities for any adrenalin junkie. �e �rst three routes up their 10-metre climbing walls are easy, the remaining three are for intermediate and expert climbers – but there’s a great view at the top for everyone. If you’re more comfortable on two wheels, you’ll enjoy nine cross-country mountain bike trails, spanning 10 kilometres. And a bit of fun? Check out the bungee trampoline.

ZIP-LINING: Fly high as you zip across the various courses at Arbraska (1-877-886-5500 • arbraska.com), home to La Rafale, the longest and highest zip course in Quebec (as in over 20 metres high). Monkey wires, climbing nets, suspended bridges – all the challenging obstacles you could think of are here. Shooting through the treetops by night is another thrill on o�er. �e aerial park caters to geo-cachers too, so a�er you take in some zip-lining panoramic vistas, head into the bush in search of other adventures.

Page 22: Adventura - Summer 2012

Donec odio orci

The People of

MFUWE

///GLOBE-TROTTER

AMID TALL GRASS AND SCORCHED RED EARTH, WILD BUFFALO, GIRAFFES AND LIONS ROAM ACROSS THE ANIMAL SANCTUARY. BY A MUDDY POOL, SUNNING HIPPOS ARE BELCHING OUT BARITONE GRUNTS. I CHECK MY WATCH: ONLY 7 A.M. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

© D

onov

an v

an S

tade

n

Page 23: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 23

LIFE STARTS EARLY AT THE MFUWE LODGE. At sunrise I’ve already encountered elephants traversing the lily-covered waters beyond our cabin porch. �e family decides to trek through the shallow lagoon, the baby trailing behind the mother, just like in the movies.

I knew then that I was on the trip of a lifetime. We’d been looking forward to watching endangered animals in their natural habitat, and learning about the indigenous people in the area – and now I was here, in the paradise of Zambia, at a hidden hinterland known as the South Luangwa National Park. We ­ew in �om neighbouring Malawi aboard a 19-seater operated by Swi� Air. Only months earlier, Malawian Louise Hahn-Perepeczko had started the company. So secluded is the area that tour operators are not the norm.

Shouldered by the lo�y Muchinga Escarpment in the west and the Luangwa River in the east, the valley’s lifeline is the river. Wild stretches of wilderness paint the valley in deep greens and gold grasses, exposing in parts a parched, coppery soil beneath. Zambia, “the real A�ica,” is regarded by many as the continent’s greatest secret. �e country’s strength, they say, is its people, but it’s also the remote beauty.

It was on this trip that I witnessed how one community, the people of Mfuwe, were on a quest to keep Zambia’s sacred valley unspoiled and pure, maintaining the delicate balance between man and nature. �e father of Zambia’s modern conservation

movement, Norman Carr, worked to develop this 9,050-sq-km tract as a national park. Carr pioneered the walking safari in 1961 as a backlash to the bus-ridden parks of other A�ican nations. Devoid of big buses, tourism here is based on the bush-camp experience.

Protected parks make up a third of the country of Zambia. Only one safari operator is allowed to set up camps in the southern section: the Bushcamp Company. �ey promise – and deliver – an eco-�iendly trip that will never be forgo�en. �ey operate a single lodge, the only accommodation inside the park that remains open year-round, and six bush camps. Many are tents on stilts, hidden among ebony or mahogany groves by oxbow lagoons. With no more than eight guests allowed, the se�ing is both remote and intimate, and your experience there is in the hands of expert sta�. �e Kuyenda bush camp, for example, is run by Phil Berry, a gira�e specialist and one of the country’s most renowned and experienced safari guides.

We stayed at the newly renovated Mfuwe Lodge. Our massive two-storey thatched-roof hut had all the modern conveniences. �e interior mirrored the natural surroundings using indigenous stone, wood decor, local organic textiles and artwork. Like its camps, the lodge is run on solar power, right down to the hot water. Responsible tourism is at the company’s core. Andy Hogg, a Zambian who began his hospitality career in South A�ica before returning to Luangwa, is the visionary behind their policy to protect both the people and the land.

When he was a kid, Andy’s family and relatives took annual vacations together that were more like pilgrimages. Leaving their home in northern Zambia with everyone piled inside the car, a two-day drive brought them to the start of an “incredible two weeks in the bush.” It was these experiences in his early school days that inspired his career as an adult. “�is place stuck with me. We’d �sh, camp, and it was the most incredible �eedom for us at the camps – no one around.”

It was in 1999 that Andy founded the Bushcamp Company, growing it �om two bush camps to six, plus the lodge. He doesn’t have any plans to keep on expanding. “We don’t want to get bigger. Our six bush camps hold six to eight people each.”

In the years since he has been operating Bushcamp, Hogg has also been propelling local community projects, many of which are supported by generous guest donations. A vermiculture project is just one of these initiatives. “We have 15 worm projects in di�erent villages, plus at the lodge. We use the compost, give it to local gardeners and they grow vegetables and sell it to the lodge. �ere’s a school, Chiwawatala School – we work closely with them and they have a big garden, too,” he says.

Over lunch by the banks of the Mushilashi River, Andy tells me that the one mission closest to his heart involves education. “Even though the government funds education, kids in rural areas have di�culty accessing schools, so many go to boarding schools. It costs on average $400 to $500 a year, and could require anything �om soap to books to transport,” he says, explaining that the Bushcamp Company has a pupil sponsorship program that is currently sponsoring 250 students.

“If we continue this education program, assisting, let’s say, three hundred kids a year, in 10 years that’s three thousand kids that wouldn’t have been educated without our help. With sponsorship they will be able to continue their studies seriously, and with education comes employment,” he notes.

Another project is Charity Begins at Home, a company-funded program Andy set up to help educate sta� or their family members. Currently, Emelda Newa, the wife of an assistant chef, is in a business and secretarial course thanks to the program. “She has excelled in her �rst term and is determined to pass with ­ying colours. �is will put her in a great position to be employed in tourism within the valley.”

Andy is grateful for the contributions guests have made to help these programs succeed. “Guests are 100 percent able to help. We’re busy building all the time. Generous donations �om our guests and supporters have allowed us to get three new classrooms, two dormitories and nice new desks.”

Along with the e�orts Hogg and his company are making to improve the educational opportunities of the locals, they are also ensuring they are good stewards of the local environment, too.

�e South Luangwa Valley is among the world’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries. It has a huge concentration of bird species, playful pukus (an A�ican antelope) and Zambia’s largest elephant population. �e resident lions and leopards fuel the adrenalin during night safaris. And it’s all thanks to a happy accident: Eons ago a collision of tectonic plates created this landscape, bordered by a dramatic escarpment in the park’s

west end and a meandering river in the east, which slowly shi�s and creates new tributaries, nourishing the park’s fertile ground.

Early in the morning my guide, Manda Chisanga, explains in great detail (he’s like a walking, talking Google) all of the legends and statistics of the surrounding ­ora and fauna. We pass a tamarind tree atop a termite mound, and move onto a vast plain reminiscent of a Salvador Dalí canvas, studded with black acacia tree stumps. An elephant herd kicks and licks the dusty ground in search of salt, while a bold pack of zebras speeds by in �ont of us. �e whole scene was so intoxicating, I had to pinch myself.

As Manda describes the area, he stops suddenly. Before us in the bush stands an elephant clearly in distress. “Look at its leg, it’s been injured,” he says, grabbing his radio instantly.

“We are at the far end of the abandoned airstrip and have spo�ed an injured elephant, his foot has been caught in a snare,” he reports back to camp. “�e lodge is now calling the South Luangwa Conservation Society. �is donor-funded organization patrols for poachers, and they are the only ones equipped to immobilize and rehabilitate snared wildlife. We work with them. A team will be there immediately to monitor the animal’s condition.”

While the park is home to animals, it is also home to bordering farm villages. �e local farmers protect their crops �om incoming animals by mounting electric fences, but when the fences no longer work, the thin wires remain enclosed around the farm and sadly become a device poachers use to set up traps in the night. Illegal poaching is a constant threat. It is estimated that since the 1970s, 75 percent of the elephant population has disappeared due to illegal poaching. More traumatic is the extinction of the black rhino that occurred in the ’80s.

At dinner I see a new side to our a�able Manda, a modest man concerned about the future of his community. Several years ago during a safari he had a eureka moment when one of his guests, an American, relayed the bene�ts of solar cooking. It saves the environment �om deforestation and can even impact mortality rates. Elephant-human con­icts arise when women walk upwards of 30 kilometres in search of �rewood – only to be charged and stampeded. “�e women are the gatherers and most at risk,” he explains.

In 2006, Manda, then 32, was designated the best guide in the world by Wanderlust Magazine, which awarded him the inaugural Paul Morrison World Guide award. With his bursary, Manda realized his dream and bought his village of Kundu a solar cooker.

“I made a solar panel,” he smiled. “Our women won’t have to risk their lives again.”

�e next morning, we venture to the village. Manda introduces me to Rhoda Banga, who is in declining health, yet still manages to a�ectionately hold his hand for the whole time he relays her story.

“She was a�acked by an elephant when she was ge�ing �rewood. It kicked her around and broke her ribs, which have penetrated into her lungs – and she’s been ill ever since.”

Rhoda’s healthcare has been minimal: a few trips to the hospital, with a badly needed operation una�ainable due to limited funds. Fortunately, Manda’s e�orts might at least keep other women �om sharing Rhoda’s fate. Her 37-year-old daughter Zer has been using the solar stove. She likes cooking beans on it. “Beans take longer to cook, so it shows how they use this stove for slower-cooking food,” he says, smiling.

I can see the hope that it gives. Zer points to her two daughters, each giggling as they shyly approach to get a be�er look at me. All of us are standing in a circle beside the solar stove, watching the �esh catch of the day cook by the sunlight. And then the feeling came back again: I was on the trip of a lifetime.

The People of

MFUWE

How to plan your own trip �e Bushcamp Company bushcampcompany.com �e South Luangwa Conservation Society slcszambia.org

“She was attacked by an elephant when she was getting firewood. It kicked her around and broke her ribs, which have penetrated into her lungs – and she’s been ill ever since.”

© S

teph

en S

mith

Page 24: Adventura - Summer 2012

Available at

and other �ne retailers

Pho

to b

y Fr

ed M

arm

sate

r ©

Wol

verin

e W

orld

Wid

e, In

c., o

ffici

al fo

otw

ear

licen

see

for

Pat

agon

ia, I

nc.

WOMEN’S FORE RUNNER

MEN’S FORE RUNNER

Breathable and moisture-wicking, with wet/dry-grip rubber outsole, and forefoot plate for added protection.

WOMEN’S MEN’S

A NATURAL FIT

Tech on the

RUNBY TRAVIS PERSAUD

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATIONRanked as a top app around the world, ViewRanger has unleashed its rich program for Canadians to use. �e app has a host of features for outdoor enthusiasts: It plots GPS location, its topographic layer shows terrain and landscape in great detail, it supports route planning and waypoint navigation, and its social-media integration lets you share routes and your adventures with �iends. Available for iPhone, Android and Symbian. ViewRanger | Free or $8 for the version with the topo maps | viewranger.com

TICK ON, TICKERA heart rate monitor is a great tool that ensures you’re neither overworking nor taking it too easy during an activity. Timex’s Health Touch Contact heart rate monitor is a no-nonsense, watch-like monitor that doesn’t need a chest strap like many others. Simply strap it on your wrist and get moving. It shows your target zone, tracks calories burned and displays heart rate in both BPM and %-of-max formats. TIMEX, Health Touch Contact | $75 | timex.ca

Ranked as a top app around the world, ViewRanger has unleashed its rich program for Canadians to use. �e app has a host of features for outdoor enthusiasts: It plots GPS location, its topographic layer shows terrain and landscape in great detail, it supports route planning and waypoint navigation, and its social-media integration lets you share routes and your adventures with �iends. Available for iPhone, Android and Symbian.

KEEP THE MUSIC PLAYINGMusic has an incredible tie to �tness. Just when you think you can’t run another step or climb over another rock, that kicking song comes blaring through your headphones, providing all the inspiration you need to keep moving. Unless your earphones have fallen out – again! Yurbuds is a brand of earbuds created for athletes, by athletes. Using their TwistLock technology, the so� silicone coverings lock into your ears, ensuring an unbreakable seal. In fact, Yurbuds guarantees that when worn correctly they’ll never fall out! Yurbuds | starting �om $30 | yurbuds.com

It’s easy to blame technology for rising rates of childhood obesity and dwindling attention spans among all generations. �ankfully, there are also amazing technological advances that are being used to kick-start a new age in wellness. Whether you are looking for ways to improve on what you’ve already been doing, a new way to stay active or a helping hand for relaxing after a long workout, these tech gadgets will give your training routine a high-tech edge.

Page 25: Adventura - Summer 2012

NO ELECTRICITY? NO PROBLEMA nice dose of music is just the thing to help you relax aer a long day of hiking, canoeing or just being out and about at your campground. But, you’re really out there – in fact, you’re in the middle of nowhere with zero access to electricity. Well, Eton’s FRX3 radio is the perfect gadget to bring along. It’s powered via solar panel or hand crank, so you’ll never be out of juice, and comes with both AM and FM bands, an AUX input for any digital player and a weather alert function. �is is a great unit to have in case of an emergency as well. ETON, FRX3 | $63 | etoncorp.com

THIS THING HAS IT ALL…We keep looking to �nd what it’s missing, but so far we haven’t had any luck. �e Suunto Ambit GPS-enabled watch comes with just about everything you need for your next adventure. As its name suggests, it comes equipped with a full-featured GPS – but that’s not all. It covers barometric altitude, temperature, and waypoint creating and storing in the watch. It also helps you train with manual and auto laps, a heart rate graph in real time, and peak training e�ect and recovery time (yes, it actually estimates how long your body needs to recover �om your training session). Plus, it connects you with movescout.com, where you can maintain an online sports diary with planning and analysis tools. SUUNTO, Ambit | $500 | suunto.com

VIRTUAL COACH FOR NEWBIESWant to start a running regimen but don’t know how to begin? RunDouble is a great li�le app that utilizes the Couch to 5K training program. Following a nine-week plan to reach 5K, the app guides you every step of the way. It utilizes intervals of running and walking during the early weeks, announcing when you need to speed up and slow down. You can create your own playlist within the app and it tracks your time, distance and pace as well as maps your route. RunDouble | $1.60 | rundouble.com

ALL FOR ONE, AND ONE FOR ALLMotorola’s MOTOACTV is the world’s �rst GPS �tness track and MP3 player – an all-in-one technology that cuts down on the gadgets you carry when running, cycling or anything else. �e small, square-shaped device �ts easily on your wrist or arm (a hand and wristband are available), holds up to 4,000 songs and tracks your every movement. Time, distance, speed and calories burned are all recorded and can also be uploaded to your own personal account so you can track your progress. MOTOROLA, Motoactv | $250 | motorola.ca

Page 26: Adventura - Summer 2012

26 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

Day&LightBY TRAVIS PERSAUD

Along with the hot days and hazy evenings of the summer months comes opportunity and variety: the opportunity for a variety of activities each and every day. Biking, hiking, camping, rocking climbing, swimming… the list is never-ending. And so is the amount of gear needed for each. This summer, while you scale new heights and traverse new grounds, make sure you have everything you need in a lightweight daypack that doesn’t bog you down. We highlight the newest and brightest packs for your summer adventures.

EXL�is daypack, with its clean design and lightweight material, promises to stick with you on the go. Black Diamond’s SwingArm shoulder strap helps the pack move with your body’s movements, so there’s no worry of losing your gear when climbing steep ranges or jumping over treacherous ground. �e side stretch pockets on this 20L pack are perfect for snacks, and the OpenAir back panel allows air movement through the back – a nice feature, especially when the day goes longer than anticipated (by choice, not due to careless navigation, right?).BLACK DIAMOND, EXL | $100 | blackdiamondequipment.com

SPECTRO 30 A popular choice among hikers, Deuter packs 30L of optimized space for your day on the trail. It comes with a host of features geared toward those who spend every waking moment in the outdoors: Deuter’s Aircomfort Flexlite System is composed of a �exible twin-�ame and three-sided ventilation, so your body stays cool while in motion; adjuster straps ensure precise backpack positioning; and the perforated foam in the shoulder straps enhances comfort and helps eliminate those sweat lines you’re so accustomed to seeing. Plus the lid compartment holds everything you’ll need to grab quickly, in a convenient location.DEUTER, Spectro 30 | $170 | deuter.com

SPIRIT 30 Get in touch with your spiritual side while in the great outdoors. �is 29L pack comes with comfort built in: thermo-moulded back panel, ergonomic shoulder straps and a padded hip belt (which is removable). It features one main top-access compartment that’s easy to get to, even when on the move. And the smaller outside pocket gives you space for items that you might need to �equently grab. It also has a hydration sleeve for your reservoir, hiking pole loops and an integrated whistle. MEC, Spirit 30 | $70 | mec.ca

Page 27: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 27

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Aura 50 1_3H EN Aventura.pdf 1 2/1/12 6:33 PM

CIERZO 25 Arc’teryx takes their well-appointed design and technology and pares it down to just the essentials in this 25L daypack. Everything gets thrown down the lid pocket, which closes with a single buckle for simplicity and security. �e pack can be easily compressed to �t into tight spots, or to cram into a bigger bag for use on daytrips during a longer expedition. �e WaterTight external zippers keep dampness out, while the corded zipper-pulls cut down noise and are easy to grab when needed. ARC’TERYX, Cierzo 25 | $100 | arcteryx.com

FREIA 30 Gregory cra�ed this pack, which ranges between 28L and 32L depending on the size (XS, S and M are available), speci�cally for females. �e narrower back panel and harness design are meant to be�er �t a woman’s �ame. It also features the company’s Kinetic Flexible Transfer System that rids the need for a stay by using, among other things, a contoured back panel complete with centre-channel ventilation. And the reversed top-loading access gives the pack tidy lines for added aesthetic appeal. GREGORY, Freia 30 | $130 | gregorypacks.com

VERTO 26 �e North Face made this 26L pack using rip-stop cargo chute fabric, so it’s both light and durable enough to withstand whatever environment you take it through. Aside �om the main compartment, it has two zippered pockets and one bo�le pocket. A hydration exit port is also built in. Is there a chance your daytrip might turn into a quick overnight journey? Well, no worries. �e pack’s triple-point compression system turns it into a sack for a sleeping bag. And it folds into its own pocket when not in use, saving you lots of space.THE NORTH FACE, Verto 26 | $80 | thenorthface.com

FLUID 6 �is ultra-light and ultra-small 6L daypack is made with runners and endurance athletes in mind. It o�ers a stable way to carry gear and a means of hydration when constantly on the move. Pockets on the shoulder straps give you access to energy bars or gel packs, Mountain Hardwear’s On-the-Fly Compression allows you to adjust the load with the pack on your back, and the hydration sleeve inside the main compartment features dual ports for �exibility, based on your need.MOUNTAIN HARDWARE, Fluid 6 | $70 | mountainhardwear.ca

Page 28: Adventura - Summer 2012

28 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

MIND & BODY

Julia WilkinsonAge: 25Hometown: Stra�ord, OntarioSport: Swimming

At 25 years old, Wilkinson is an Olympic veteran. She competed in Beijing in 2008, but this year her sights are set beyond mere participation – she wants to stand on the podium. �at means le ing go. While she has set national records swimming the 200-metre individual medley, she’s decided not to continue with that race at this year’s Olympics. She wants to focus on her strengths instead, the backstroke and �eestyle, feeling they give her the best chance to win. Watch for her during the 100-metre backstroke and 100-metre �eestyle.

How much time do you spend training? I’m usually doing about four to six hours a day, �ve to six days a week.

What type of training makes up the majority of your week? �ere’s a mix of everything! In the water we do a mix of cardio, high-intensity fast swimming, and strength training using power towers. In the gym, I do three days of strength work a week and two days of cardio circuits.

As an athlete, what you fuel your body with is so important. What role does nutrition play in your training? Nutrition is a huge part of my training since I am training so o�en. I have li�le time to recover between workouts, so I need to optimize my recovery through nutrition. I work closely with our dietician, Susan Boegman. Without proper nutrition, I wouldn’t perform at workouts and I would risk ge�ing sick more o�en.

What’s your favourite part of your workout?

I really enjoy the fast e�orts on long rest, like the 6 x 100s all out on 8:00. I’m competitive, and if I can make practice more like a race (even if I am just racing myself) it’s way more fun.

Do you listen to anything while training? Well, when I’m in the water I obviously can’t have headphones

in, but there’s usually a song stuck in my head (or a few songs, like a medley!). O�entimes it is country, because those songs get stuck in your head so easily!

What are your hopes for this year’s Olympic Games? I want to stand on the podium and hear “O Canada.”

For four years, they’re training. �ere’s no multimillion-dollar contract, off-season free-agency frenzy or a horde of media following their every movement. �ey work and train for the love of their sport. �ese are the amateur athletes who we cheer on during the Olympics. And though we may not see them for quite some time after the closing ceremonies, their training doesn’t end when the Olympics do. It continues, with their sights set on the next Olympiad. �eir dedication truly is inspirational. We had the opportunity to chat with three Canadian Olympians about their training routines and what it took them to prepare for the Summer Games. So, while we watch them compete in London – and hopefully medal! – remember the years of work they’ve dedicated to that one moment. BY TRAVIS PERSAUD

© J

ames

Blin

Cou

rtes

y Ju

lia W

ilkin

son

WHAT IT TAKES TO BE AN

OLYM PIAN

Page 29: Adventura - Summer 2012

adventuramag.ca SUMMER 2012 29

© C

ourt

esy

Mar

k de

Jon

ge

Eric Gillis Age: 32 Hometown: Antigonish, Nova Scotia Sport: Marathon Gillis is joining Reid Coolsaet and Dylan Wykes as part of Canada’s ­rst full marathon team since 1996. He quali­ed for the London Games at the Toronto Water�ont Marathon, besting the Olympic standard by one second. While this is his ­rst Olympic marathon, it isn’t his ­rst Summer Games. He had a chance to represent Canada in Beijing in 2008, running the 10,000-metre race.

Where do you enjoy training? Cook’s Mill and Carter [in Guelph, Ontario]. �ere are dirt roads with li�le tra�c, and it’s only a 15-minute run �om the University of Guelph. I’ve run many, many miles out there, and never get tired of it!

What is your favourite part of your workout? We do one marathon simulation workout about �ve weeks out �om a marathon. It’s the most amount of work we do in one day, and a�erwards my con�dence always goes up. �e workout goes like this: 20-minute run straight into 30 minutes tempo just over race pace; 30 minutes at race pace, then 30 minutes just under race pace, followed by a cool-down; all told we run between 40 to 42 kilometres. Best part of it is, I get to go

home and eat like I just ran a marathon.

And your least favourite? Any workout on a 200m track!

Do you have a pre-race routine? Before a marathon I’ll get up three and a half hours before start time. For breakfast, a PowerBar, banana and sport drink do the trick. With about 90 minutes to go, I have another half PowerBar and more sport drink, then sip on a co�ee.

Do you have a favourite racing venue? De�nitely the Toronto Scotiabank Water�ont Marathon. I also receive a lot of support at the Aileen Meagher Track Classic in Halifax. I always enjoy racing there.

Proper nutrition is obviously a key in your training, but what are some of the guilty pleasures you indulge in? Chocolate bars. I love my chocolate!

What are you listening to when training or before a competition? I’m always listening to �e Killers during my warm-up.

What’s something about yourself that most people don’t know? I have dyslexia.

Why do you run? Because I can, and you can too.

Mark de Jonge Age: 28Hometown: Halifax, Nova ScotiaSport: Kayak

de Jonge has been on an upward swing, quali�ing Canada’s entry in the K-1 200 in London with a sixth-place ­nish at the world championships and a third at the Olympic test event. And then he �actured his ­nger by dropping an 80-pound weight on it during a workout. Fortunately, his positivity remains. “I am con­dent that with the help of my amazing support team I will come back stronger than before,” he says on his website. We expect him to do just that.

How much time do you spend training? It usually ends up being four to �ve hours a day, six days a week.

What does your training week look like? In my discipline, which is a short sprint, we do a balance of speed work (less than 10 seconds), lactate work (20 to 40 seconds), aerobic power work (many repeats of maximal aerobic work) and aerobic capacity work (endurance-type work). Usually we also run and do strength training several times

per week. �e proportions of the type of work done throughout the week vary throughout the year depending on what training phase we are in.

What’s the role of nutrition in your training? Nutrition plays a key role in my training so that I can recover �om the hard work that I do and feel ready for the next session.

What part of your workout do you enjoy the most? My favourite part of a workout is usually midway through, when I feel like I’m ge�ing into a groove mentally and physically.

What’s coming through the speakers when you’re working out? I don’t listen to music while I am training on the water, but when I’m in the gym I like to listen to high-energy music of all types. Anything to get me pumped up.

What are your Olympic hopes? I am hoping to have the best race possible at the Olympic Games and to have no doubts about my training and preparation leading up to my races. If I can do that, I feel that an Olympic medal is possible. Hopefully a gold one.

Page 30: Adventura - Summer 2012

30 SUMMER 2012 adventuramag.ca

LAST CALL

© M

athi

eu L

amar

re

�e Art of FrightGetting to a unique point of view often comes at a hefty price: Production costs for top-flight,

bird’s-eye-view photography, including prohibitive helicopter rates, are in the thousands of dollars per day. No such luck for me. ­e valiant though shaky single-engine Cessna I could afford buzzes over

the Saint-François River near Sherbrooke, Quebec, trying to achieve a steady roll in order for me to shoot at a right angle toward the ground through the small opening of the plexiglas window. Easier done when you’re heli-hovering with the door open and you’re comfortably stationed with your camera, strapped

in over the void… I must say, though, that I’m still happy with this resulting image of the Grande Descente paddling event. ­ose tiny canoes seem to imitate the rush of red blood cells through

my arteries, as I’m desperately trying not to lose my breakfast in mid-air! – Mathieu Lamarre, photojournalist

­e tools: Nikon F801s, Nikkor 80–200mm f/2.8 lens, ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/500 second.

Page 31: Adventura - Summer 2012
Page 32: Adventura - Summer 2012

©© W

olve

rine

Wol

veri

ne W

orld

Wor

ld W

ide,

Wid

e, I

nc.,

Inc

., 2

012.

201

2.

Need a pair of shorts that will stretch and move with your unpredictable impulses?

Need them to pull moisture away from your skin because when you play,

you play hard? Need them to dry quickly so you can jump back into the fray? Meridian.

So wherever you want to go, Merrell clothing and shoes will get you there.Find out how at merrell.com

MERIDIAN SHORT

THE SHORTANSWER

Need pair of shorts that will stretch

MERIDIAN SHORT