Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 2 2014

Emerging market for new colourants

Marché émergeant pour denouveaux colorants

Pleins feux sur l’Iran

De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi

Revue d’ITMA Asie et CITME 2014

Spotlight on Iran

New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost

ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 review

ITMA + CITME 2014 is the combinationof two high-quality brands

ISSUE TWO 2014DEUXIÈME EDITION 2014

AFTEX Cover Issue 2 2014_cover.qxd 06/05/2014 11:52 Page 1

TEXTILE

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S01 AFTEX 2 2014 - Start_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 2

Developments 4News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events

Spotlight on Iran 6Iran needs more textile business

Piracy 7Ghana tackles counterfeiting with an iron hand

Colourants 12World market sees emergence of new dyes and auxiliaries

ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 16China gears up for the fourth edition

Apparel Africa 20New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost

Développements 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats

Pleins feux sur l’Iran 6L’Iran a besoin de plus d’affaires textiles

Contrefaçon 7Ghana aborde la contrefaçon d’une main en fer

Colorants 12Le marché mondial voit l’émergence de nouveaux colorants et auxiliaries

L’ITMA Asie + CITME 2014 16La Chine se prépare pour la quatrième édition

Revue d’Habillement 20De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi

CONTENTS

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 3

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May 2014

13 - 15 Texprocess Americas 2014 Atlanta, USA www.texprocessamericas.com

19 - 22 INDEX 2014 Dubai, UAE www.indexexhibition.com

20 - 23 FESPA Digital 2014 Munich, Germany www.fespa.com

June 2014

16 - 20 ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 Shanghai, China www.cematex.org

18 - 20 Source Africa Cape Town, South Africa www.sourceafrica.co.za

19 - 24 Heimtextil India New Delhi, India www.heimtextil.in

July 2014

2 - 4 FESPA Africa 2014 Johannesburg, South Africawww.fespa.com

10 - 12 Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen 2014 Shenzhen, Chinawww.messefrankfurt.com

August 2014

27 - 29 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Shanghai, Chinawww.messefrankfurt.com.hk

September 2014

24 - 26 Cinte Techtextil China Shanghai, China www.techtextilchina.com

October 2014

16 - 19 OTM 2014 Gaziantep, Turkey www.otm2014.com

21 - 24 IGATEX Pakistan 2014 Lahore, Pakistan www.igatex.pk

November 2014

3 - 4 International Textile Fair Dubai Dubai, UAE www.internationaltextilefair.com

4 - 6 Texworld Istanbul Istanbul, Turkey www.messefrankfurt.com

10 - 12 ORIGIN AFRICA Nairobi, Kenya www.originafrica.org

11 - 13 JITAC European Textile Fair Tokyo, Japan www.jitac.jp

May 2015

5 - 7 Techtextil 2015 Frankfurt, Germanywww.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 20144

TEXTILE NEWS

Kenya to set up textile city in

to woo investors in the country

KENYA HAS PLANNED to set up a textile city in

Athi River in a move to attract investments, Adan

Mohammed, industrialisation cabinet secretary,

said. The ministry, he said, targets to attract at least

100 textile investment firms in the city and create

more than 200,000 sustainable textile jobs by

December 2016. Such firms will be expected to

take up investment opportunities relating to cotton

ginning and yarn spinning, manufacture of textile

fabrics and home fabrics, manufacture of apparel

and manufacture of garment accessories, and

labels among other ventures, Daily Nationreported. The contribution of manufacturing to

GDP last year dropped to an all time low of 8.9 per

cent from 9.5 per cent the previous year as ICT,

construction and financial services expanded at a

faster pace. With a combined annual revenue of

more than US$25bn, Mohammed confirmed that

plans for the establishment of a textile city are now

at an advanced stage.

Uganda set to increase cotton

exports after Bali meet

UGANDA’S COTTON EXPORTS from Uganda

are set to increase once the recommendations by

trade ministers in Bali’s ninth ministerial

conference are implemented. One of the

recommendations is to help revive the cotton

sector through funding to increase production to

benefit from the market from List Developed

Countries (LDC), members of the World Trade

Organization (WTO). Amelia Kyambadde,

minister of trade, industry and cooperatives, said

that there have been restrictions in the cotton sector

when it comes to exporting as result of decline in

quality and production. “In this meeting ministers

agreed that since the sector in Uganda would be

supported if possible with a fund to improve the

production capacity and quality controls to gain a

guaranteed market among LDC members and

beyond,’ added Kyambadde.

ORIGIN AFRICA set to take

place in November in Kenya

DEDICATED TO IMPROVING African cotton,

textile and apparel trade, ORIGIN AFRICA will take

place in Nairobi, Kenya, starting 10 November 2014.

The event involves collaboration with producers

across the cotton value chain from farm to fashion

including accessories suppliers, home textile and

décor to develop, guide and promote African trade.

It will highlight the creativity and innovation of the

African cotton, textile and clothing industries, with

a specific focus on business, trade and investment

— regional and international — capturing the spirit,

style and innovation of modern Africa, African

Cotton & Textile Industries Federation said. The

show is touted as the largest cotton, textile and

apparel event in the region and is profiled to raise

awareness of Africa as a sourcing destination.

ORIGIN AFRICA will encompass a trade expo,

seminars, B2B meetings and a fashion show.

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés del’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question


THE SOUTHERN AFRICAN Clothing and Textile Workers Union

(SACTWU) has welcomed the new agreement on increase of minimum wages

for the domestic clothing manufacturing industry.

The new agreement was signed by labour minister Mildred Oliphant. It sets

out terms and conditions of employment for the clothing industry including

minimum wage levels.

The agreement proposes harsh penalties for non-compliance. The minimum

wage levels set out in the new agreement are applicable to the whole of the

clothing manufacturing industry in South Africa.

Chris Gina, deputy general secretary of SACTWU, said that there will be

a different minimum weekly wage that clothing workers will get in big

cities and non-metropolitan areas. “We have a minimum that covers the

employers in areas so called ‘former homeland areas’, we call them non

metros. The minimum rate there is US$60.48 per week in the urban areas

the minimum is actually US$84.52.”

Gina added that the employers who break the law will be prosecuted. The

deputy secretary general has singled out KwaZulu-Natal as one of the

province which does not comply to the rule. He said penalties include

liquidation of a company that fails to adhere to the new agreement.

“Once the agreement is promulgated the bargaining council has got clear

powers that if you are not adhering to minimum standards the inspector can go

to any of these companies and inspect and actually issue an order of

prosecution for that company and that company can even be liquidated.”

Some clothing factory workers claim that they are the lowest paid.

Mymoena Williams has been working in the clothing and textile industry

for 35 years and, says that the new deal will be a step in the right direction.

“It could help sustain workers livelihood though the ideal agreement and

probably they could earn more money but under the circumstances it enables

workers to be protected. So I think it’s a good thing that the agreement has

been signed,” Williams stated.

UK HAS ANNOUNCED that it

has plans to introduce Bt cotton

from various African countries

in its market.

Owen Paterson, UK’s

secretary of state for

environment, food and rural

affairs, said in London that

adopting genetically engineered

cotton (Bt cotton) by farmers in

most countries is inevitable.

Addressing a group of

Bioscience for Farming in

Africa fellowship journalists in

April, Paterson added that there

are more benefits to Bt cotton

cultivation, especially among poor smallholder farmers.

“GM cotton is a real success story. More than two thirds of global cotton

production is now GM based, so it's likely that the majority of you in this

room are wearing clothes made from GM crops,” the UK official said.

“Why should we deny our local farmers benefits of Bt cotton, this is not

a crop and already we are wearing clothes made from Bt cotton,” argued

Tanzania’s water and irrigation minister Jumanne Maghembe.

Maghembe said this while presiding as a panelist at an Africa Green

Revolution Forum (AGRF) on how technology can change growth of

agriculture that genetic engineering is one way of increasing productivity

and boosting incomes for local farmers. “Cotton is not a food crop. Why

don’t we start with that so that we increase yields and help farmers earn

more from this crop?” Maghembe added. Statistics show that about 40 per

cent of all Tanzanians rely directly or indirectly on the cotton industry most

of which are smallholder farmers.

THE ETHIOPIAN TEXTILE Industry DevelopmentInstitute has revealed that it has earned US$75.28mn from exports in the first eight months of the fiscalyear from the international market.

According to the institute, this year’s exportperformance surged by US$9.9mn (15.1 per cent)from the same reported period of the previous year.

The director of Corporate CommunicationDirectorate of the Institute, Banteyihun Gessesse,told The Reporter that this year‘s achievement forthe growth in export performance is mainlyattributed to the volume and quality of the productsof the textile-manufacturing sector.

According to Banteyihun, most of the productswere sent to the international market like Europe,US, Asia and Africa.

Among several local and foreign-ownedcompanies engaged in the production of textile, theTurkish textile giant Ayka Addis took the lion’s shareof the already earned US$75.28mn.

The export components mainly consisted ofuntailored garments, spine and woven, tailoredgarments and woven products. In a similardevelopment, another Turkish giant textilemanufacturer, Akber, is undertaking preparationactivities to establish the biggest textile plantwith a total initial capital amounting to

US$175mn in Ejere town.The new factory is also expected to create from

9,000 to 10,000 jobs, bigger than any operatingtextile factory in the nation. So far the highest hasbeen Ayka Addis that has been offering around7,000 jobs.

Upon completing the construction of the plant andbecoming operational in the next three years, thecompany expects to make its annual productioncapacity worth US$90mn.

It was further learnt that the company is currentlyundertaking a project study and designing that willenable it to secure loans from the DevelopmentBank of Ethiopia (DBE).

“The coming of such big companies to Ethiopiasignals a glimmer of hope in the country’s textilesector,” Banteyihun added.

Ethiopian textile exports earn US$75.28 million in eight months

THE AFRICAN UNION has urged

member countries to push US for

the extension of the Africa Growth

and Opportunity Act (AGOA) for

the next 15 years inorder to enable

them maximise benefits through

trade relations. Fatima Haram, AU’s

commissioner for trade and

industry, said that there should be

renewed efforts to strengthen

Africa’s link with AGOA to

continue their efforts to open their

economies and build free markets.

Meanwhile, the South African

government has said that it will

consider giving some US producers

the same access to the local market

as the EU. Trade and industry

minister Rob Davies said that he

believes US President Barack

Obama to make this proposal at the

first US-Africa summit in August

2014. AGOA offers most African

countries duty-free access to the US

market for most of their goods.

Owen Paterson

South African textile body welcomesnew law on minimum wages

UK to introduce Africa’s Bt cotton in its market

African Union topush US for renewal of AGOA

TEXTILE NEWS


The new factory is also expected tocreate from 9,000 to 10,000 jobs


I

RAN IS BACK with new hope that the long-

established but struggling textile and clothing

industries will be part of an international business

package designed to bring the Islamic Republic

back in out of the cold.

It all depends on what happens when the

“sanctions truce”, signed in Switzerland last

November and much encouraged by the European

Union amongst others, many of them machinery

exporters, runs out later this year.

Most are agreed that the new face of Iran —

2013-elected President Hassan Rouhani — is a

welcome newcomer indeed. The first-time

appearance of a new-era Iranian leader at this

year’s World Economic Forum could have been a

start; he has already spoken directly, but briefly,

with the US President Barack Obama.

The Iranian Revolution occurred back in 1979

and crippling international business sanctions have

been in place since 1996. The capital and

equipment starved textile and clothing industries

have been victims of this. These centuries-old

activities used to employ in excess of half a

million, easily the largest non-oil sector of

manufacturing in the 20th century. The much-

reduced total now is unknown, but large numbers

still work in the spinning and weaving sectors in

particular, working with one of the world’s widest

ranges of local natural fibres, including silk. Many

are employed on a cottage, i.e. very small scale,

basis – in premium-grade carpet production

especially. If anything the economic sanctions

have increased the desirability and therefore

international trading value of these magnificent

furnishings, including in the Gulf.

However all segments of the textile industries

are crippled by the poor quality and quantity of

mechanical equipment that is currently available,

the absence of so much vitally needed foreign

direct investment (FDI), and the many

opportunities that are easily found in the porous

and sometimes troubled border areas to smuggle in

fabrics and clothing of all types. Meanwhile the

currency remains weak, raising the local cost of

legitimate imports.

The long-running problems in nearby Syria

undoubtedly confound the situation because of

Iran’s alleged involvement in the eastern

Mediterranean; this year’s alarming developments

in Ukraine have actually brought some unexpected

hope because there is now even more international

demand for Iran’s gas which for so long has been

denied to most of the world. Iran is believed to

have lost over US$25bn in sanctions-blocked oil

exports alone last year. A much healthier textile

and clothing sector is urgently needed to boost the

battered and reduced manufacturing economy.

Substantial domestic demand for many basic

products is undoubtedly there, but not the means of

meeting most of it.

To find out what’s going on in textile trade we

have to turn to the WTO’s International Trade

Statistics 2013, unfortunately the figures reveal

nothing of Iran’s official international clothing

business, which is believed to be very small

anyway. Textile exports have roughly doubled

since 1990, reaching US$1,097mn in 2012. This

has been well below the rate of growth in

international world business overall, although

there was a very encouraging 17 per cent year-on-

year increase in 2012. Textile imports have been

maintained more or less at a stable level well

below this over the last three years. But the real

tragedy is that Iran has failed to benefit almost

completely from the surge in international clothing

sales since MFA quotas were abandoned. Globally,

this has more than doubled since the beginning of

the millennium, and is a much more lucrative

business than unfinished textiles.

Finding updated information about the

industries from within Iran is not easy. The best

source seems to be the official Trade Promotion

Organisation, which has a special department

(+9821 2266-4010 telephone or -2566 fax) dealing

with business with African and Arabic-speaking

countries. The TPO site provides information

about various exporters and business directories,

including a useful small-business section. It lists

trade fairs comprehensively too.

The Association of Iranian Textile Industries

acts on behalf of some 400 individual

businesses, but, contact details apart, little

information about the sector’s activities can be

obtained directly from the English-language

section.

The principal trade fair to visit this year will

undoubtedly be Irantex 2014, which covers all

products including leather and textile machinery

(17-20 November). Next year it will be the 3rd

Iranian Apparel Specialist Fair (21-24 February

2015). The thriving carpet sector seems to

arrange its principal exhibitions independently.

The main handmade show runs from 23-29

August, and its machine-made equivalent from

6-9 September. There are also various regional

carpet shows. The Textile Exporters Association

website is also worth a look. ❑

www.wto.org/statisticswww.tpo.ir http://aiti.org.irwww.itema.ir


SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN

Carpet-weaving is undoubtedly one of the most distinguished manifestationsof the Persian culture and art, and dates back to ancient Persia

A much healthier textile andclothing sector is urgently

needed to boost the battered andreduced manufacturing economy

The Middle East country is back on track with its textiles export, but a lot needs to be done in terms of

industrialisation in order to generate more revenue in Iran

Iran needsmore textile business

S02 AFTEX 2 2014 - Spotlight_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 6

PIRACY


Government measures to protect indigenous industry has also led to increased unemployment and there is

a need to come up with alternate measures for citizens immediately to curb the smuggling

T

HE DECISION BY Ghana to suspend the operations of a task force it set

up to check counterfeiting, piracy and smuggling of textile prints into the

country has not gone down well with industry operators, who have described

the action as paying lip service to their quest for action to check the activities

of smugglers and pirates who have virtually collapsed the local industry

rendering many citizens unemployed and investors wringing their hands in

anguish over their losses.

Members of the task force included the National Security Council, Ghana

Union of Traders (GUTA) and the Ghana National Chamber of Commerce

and Industries (GNCCI), which was officially inaugurated in August 2010

with an objective to curb the menace of illegal importation of pirated

Ghanaian textile prints.

The central government took this decision using the World Trade

Organisation (WTO) Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual

Property Rights (TRIPs), which places an obligation upon it to take certain

special border measures under Articles 51-60 of the TRIPs Agreement that

enjoins WTO members to take action to prevent these illegal goods from being

released by Customs Authority to the importers. The TRIPs agreement also

mandated governments not to allow infringed goods to enter the channel of

commerce and also not allow their re-exportation.

Directing and designing

In an earlier attempt to stem the illegality, the Ministry of Trade and Industry

(MoTI) in a 2005 directive designated the Takoradi Port as the ‘single corridor’

for the import of textiles into Ghana. As corollary to this policy, a committee

was also set up to vet and approve all textile designs prior to importation.

Though this was accepted by some industry operatives, the Customs

Division of the Ghana Revenue Authority (GRA), said the policy rather

resulted in an upsurge in smuggling with its attendant loss of revenue to

government, which eventually resulted in a review permitting the importation

of these goods through all entry points on condition that the guidelines on

importation of such goods were complied with.

Thus from September 2013, all imports were allowed through Kotoka

International Airport (KIA), Accra, Takoradi and Tema Ports all in an attempt to

salvage an industry, which at its peak in the 1980s employed over 30,000 workers

directly, not to mention the distributors and itinerant hawkers and market traders.

The latest lay-off occurred in December 2013 at Printex, a local firm that

declared 200 of its work force as surplus to requirements, due to low patronage

of its goods which a workers’ leader Francis Omari attributed to the influx of

cheap textiles on the market especially from China in addition to the high

taxes and unavailability of markets.

The government in a surprising move in late 2013, however, announced the

suspension of the activities of the anti-piracy task force through Nii Lante

Vanderpuije, deputy trade minister following concerns expressed over the

seizure of some 1,000 pieces of pirated textiles. This decision has, however,

not gone down well with the Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Union,

which has vehemently opposed the suspension petitioning the Trade Ministry

for the reinstatement of the task force.

But Vanderpuije, who described the workers’ stance as unfortunate, said the

ministry is working in the best interest of the local textile manufacturing industry.

Secretary General of the Ghana Federation of Labour, Abraham Koomson

said, “What we care about is making sure that those who steal our designs are

arrested, that’s all.”

He, however, maintained that industry workers will make sure that nobody

brings pirated designs to come and destroy their work in country.

President of Spinnet Textiles and Garments Cluster, an association of small

businesses in the manufacturing of textiles and garments for the domestic and

export markets, Edwina Assan indicated that these policies have made it almost

impossible for Ghana’s textile products to compete with cheap imports from Asia.

An emphasis on enforcement

Speaking on the gradual collapse of the textile industry in Ghana, Assan

expressed concern about the stiff competition faced by the industry as a result

of the importation of cheap textiles.

According to her, the Ghana Standards Authority had failed to fully

operationalise its taskforce for arresting smugglers due to inadequate

resources and the porous nature of the country’s borders.

She urged government to check corruption at the borders, designate only

one port as the designation point for all imported textiles to avoid the use of

porous routes and also pay attention to the protection of Intellectual Property

with regards to pirating of local textile designs.

She also called on the Ministry of Trade and Industry to facilitate the

capacity building of small and medium textile firms to enable them position

themselves well and be competitive.

To save the local industry, MoTI issued a guideline early last year on the

importation of African prints into the country. The guidelines were intended to

provide a framework of administrative procedure through which numerous

unfair trade practices including evasion of imported duties, pirating of patent

and trademarks and smuggling among many others could be controlled.

The guideline included directives, which required all such importers to

register with the Ministry of Trade, to allow effective monitoring and

inspection of all imported African print to ensure they are not pirated designs

from any local manufacturer. ❑

Kafui Gale-Zoyiku

Ghana tackles counterfeitingwith an iron hand

Local textile designs must be protectedunder Intellectual Property rights

To save the local industry, MoTI issued aguideline in 2013 on the importation of African

prints into the country


Même si les investissements directs étrangers dans le secteur égyptien du textile et del’habillement sont menacés par la crise économique actuelle, le pays n’en demeure pas moinsl’un des principaux fournisseurs de tissus de qualité à l’échelle internationale

BCOMME LA VERTIGINEUSE croissanceéconomique que connaît l’Afrique profite

majoritairement aux principaux marchésmondiaux du textile, les analystescommerciaux commencent à se demander si“l’Égypte ne risque pas de rester à la traîne?”

L’instabilité générale observée depuis lerenversement du gouvernement de MohamedMorsi a très certainement affecté l’économie. Letourisme est durement touché et les industriesdu textile et de l’habillement, qui dépendentfortement des marchés étrangers, craignentque les investissements directs étrangers (IDE),qui leur sont pourtant indispensables, necontinuent à baisser à la source.

Certains se demandent certainementpourquoi on investit dans une Égypte déchiréepar les querelles internes et en manqueévident de direction, alors qu’il existe de bienmeilleures opportunités ailleurs, en particulierdans le Golfe ?

Une grande partie des avancées réaliséespar les entrepreneurs égyptiens au cours deces 20 dernières années pourraient êtreperdues au profit d’exploitants beaucoup plusagiles originaires d'Afrique du Nord, deTurquie et d'autres horizons plus lointains.Étant donné la croissance actuelle queconnaissent les marchés américains du textileet de l’habillement, qui constituent lesprincipaux piliers du secteur privé égyptiendepuis de nombreuses années, cette situationest plus qu’ironique. Il en va semblablementde même en matière de relance européenne.

Dans son article paru dans le derniernuméro de Business Monthly, IsabelEsterman, membre de la Chambre américainede commerce, résume parfaitement lasituation. Elle y cite les propos tenus parMohamed Kassem, PDG de la sociétéégyptienne d’exportation de textile World

Trading Company, sur la différence d'attitudedes investisseurs locaux et des investisseursinternationaux face à la crise actuelle.

Selon ses dires, M. Kassem aurait déclaré,en parlant de l’Égypte, que “des facteursémotionnels et sentimentaux étaient en jeu”.Ces éléments sont plutôt absents de l’espritdes observateurs, qui ne tiennent compte quedes chiffres. Ce sont des dévoreurs dechiffres. Ils se fichent que vous fassiezconfiance au gouvernement ou non...ilsveulent évaluer la situation sur place". Et ce

qu'ils observent pour le moment sur leterritoire particulièrement tourmenté del'Égypte n'est pas bien joli.

Ainsi, au sein de l'industrie égyptienne dutextile et de l'habillement, ce sont les chiffresqui comptent, tout comme pour le reste del'économie. Après examen de l'édition 2012des "Statistiques du commerce internationale"publiée par la Banque mondiale, la plupartdes observateurs conviendraient que lestendances de la situation égyptienne à longterme sont plutôt encourageantes.

Fin 2011, les exportations égyptiennes detextile et d’habillement représentaientconjointement près de 10% de l’ensemble desexportations de biens de consommationcourante. Cependant, il faut se rappeler quec'est au début de cette année-là que lestroubles, souvent qualifiés de “Printemps

Les producteurs de textilevoient enfin la lumière aubout du tunnel

8

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE

En 2011, les exportations égyptiennes de textile et d’habillement représentaient conjointement près de10 % de l’ensemble des exportations du pays

L’Égypte a le potentiel pour réaliser les transformationsstructurelles nécessaires pour tendre vers une économieplus productive et une exploitation optimale de l’immense

richesse de ses ressources

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014


arabe”, ont vraiment commencé. “Folie temporaire” est le terme que la

Chambre américaine de commerce en Égyptea choisi d’utiliser dans son dernier compterendu mensuel. Les prêteurs du Golf (et lesemployeurs de nombreux expatriés égyptiens)n’ont pas été, eux non plus, des plusimpressionnés.

Dans son rapport semestriel sur lesperspectives économiques égyptiennes, laBanque africaine de développement a déclaréque “l’Égypte avait le potentiel pour réaliser lestransformations structurelles nécessaires pourtendre vers une économie plus productive etune exploitation optimale de l’immenserichesse de ses ressources, à condition quecertaines réformes politiques indispensablessoient instaurées.”

Le FMI a souligné que, pour atteindre lacroissance, l’économie égyptienne devaitprogresser d’au moins 2% en 2013.

En attendant, les travailleurs des villesindustrielles de la Basse-Égypte et du Delta,parmi lesquels de nombreux employésqualifiés du secteur du textile et del’habillement, doivent faire face à des pénuriesd’électricité, d’eau, d’essence et même de gazen bouteille. En raison de la faiblesse de lalivre égyptienne et des répercussions que celaentraîne sur presque tous les biens importés,

ils doivent payer plus presque tout ce qu'ilsachètent. Pour le comprendre, il suffitd’examiner la hausse qu’ont connu lesimportations égyptiennes de textile etd’habillement au cours de ces 20 dernièresannées. Les coûts de la machinerie indienneet européenne nécessaire au fonctionnementdes usines et des ateliers ont connu unehausse considérable.

La vision nécessaire pour corriger lasituation semble faire défaut. On ne peut nierque le gouvernement intérimaire égyptien amis tout en œuvre pour nommer deséconomistes de renom à des postes clés.Certains ont même travaillé dans desinstitutions internationales qui voientaujourd’hui l’Égypte d’un très mauvais œil (iln’y a rien d’inhabituel à cela ; Le Caire atoujours adopté une approche indépendantevis-à-vis de sujets tels que le rythme de laprivatisation, surtout dans le secteur du textile).

Cependant, ce que les potentielsinvestisseurs étrangers recherchent vraiment,c’est davantage une énonciation claire desobjectifs nationaux que la capacité desimplement “faire face”. Ils veulent la preuveque le pays commence à se rassembler, àrésoudre les dissensions factionnelles quidivisent son peuple, et notamment lesorganisateurs de la main d’œuvre industrielle.

Sur une note positive, le dernier articlepublié par la Chambre américaine decommerce en Égypte indiquait que les États-Unis étaient eux-mêmes confrontés à desproblèmes factionnels ces derniers temps, cequi a entraîné la suspension de nombreuxservices fédéraux, les politiciens n’étant pasdisposés à faire des compromis.

Malgré certaines carences, le coton àlongues fibres continue à être cultivé et récoltéen Égypte, et bon nombre d’activités liées ausecteur du textile et de l’habillementcontinuent à tourner exactement comme avantla chute du régime Mubarak. En novembre, laConférence internationale sur le textileSMARTEX-2013, subventionnée par laRussie, s’est déroulée dans l’environnementcalme de Sharm El Sheikh, sous les auspicesde l’Académie égyptienne de recherchescientifique et de technologie. En mars 2014,le principal salon international du pays setiendra, comme à son habitude, dans lacapitale et accueillera une exposition majeureconsacrée à la mode et au textile.

En bref, l’Égypte traverse une mauvaisepasse, mais elle n’a en aucun cas atteint unpoint de non-retour. Dans ce monde avide detextile, le pays demeure l’un des principauxfournisseurs de fibres, de tissus et de produitsfinis de haute qualité. ❑

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE

9TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014



TEXTILE NEWS

DUTCH FASHION DESIGNER BorreAkkersdijk has come up with a new kind ofwearable technology — a Wi-Fi enabled suit.

Akkersdijk began experimenting with acircular knitting machine in 2009 to knit twolayers of fine cotton thread enveloping asynthetic fibre, Sky News reported.

Now he has pushed the technique furtherby running copper wire through the materialduring the manufacturing process.

The wires can be hooked up to chips andconnectivity devices, and he has created twoprototype outfits called BB.Suits.

Akkersdijk said, “This suit is to show that

wearable technology will be the future — afuture where people wearing hi-tech clothesis the most natural thing in the world.”

The concept is the result of a collaborationbetween ByBorre, fabric innovation brand;Eindhoven University of Technology;22Tracks, a music platform; CRISP; DaanSpangenberg Graphics and Want.nl.

“Together, we want to show the ideas andconcepts we have about wearable technology.We think garments are one of the excitingfutures for interface design, connecting thewearer to people and places, becoming theideal interface for many new user experiences.”

Dutch designer creates wearable Wi-Fi suit

Dutch designer Borre Akkersdijkwearing the BB.Suit.

TOGETHER WITH ROSINK Systeme,

Trützschler has been selling installations for the

production of card slivers used for making cotton

swabs for many years.

The web of a Trützschler cotton card is split

into four segments. These web sections result in

four fine card slivers. They have a count of

approximately 1.5 gram per metre. The four

slivers are simultaneously coiled into four cans

by means of a Rosink Quad Coiler. Today, more

than 80 Trützschler and Rosink machine

combinations are on the market. The sliver that

can be produced with these systems is sufficient

for approx. 50,000,000 cotton swabs per hour.

To further increase efficiency, FALU has

recently introduced cotton swab machines with

integrated drafting system. The feed sliver used

here has a weight of three to four gram per metre.

To fully utilise the potential of the Trützschler

High Production Card in these cases, the Rosink

sliver splitting system has been adapted to the

Trützschler Card TC 11-H, allowing a production

of four slivers a four gram per metre. Thus, the

card production is more than doubled again. All

the advantages and control systems of the

Trützschler TC 11-H are utilised; they ensure a

perfect sliver evenness at maximum efficiency of

the total system.

SWISS ENGINEERING COMPANY Oerlikon

has announced the launch of its TURBOVAC i

product line, which is a series of

turbomolecular vacuum pumps for analytical

instruments and research-and-development

applications. With a pumping speed that is 60

per cent higher than that of similar products

and a compression ratio that is 100 times

higher than the previous generation, the

Oerlikon product could be the next market

leader. “With the new TURBOVAC family, we

offer the leading product for analytics and

research applications as well as for other

industrial applications and intend to

systematically expand our market position,”

says CEO Martin Füllenbach.

The new TURBOVAC pumps series comes

with low maintenance needs. The

TURBOVAC 350 i and 450 i models, for

instance, are specifically designed for ultra-

high vacuum applications and for installation

in compact pump-system solutions and are

suitable for processes with small backing

pumps. This reduces procurement and

operating costs, Oerlikon said.

In contrast, the TURBOVAC T 350 i and

T 450 i models are designed for process

applications and high gas throughput. They

offer fast run-up times and insensitivity to

particulates. Both model variations provide

a range of options for the most diverse

special requirements.

“Successful test runs with various customers

demonstrate that TURBOVAC i pumps can

make full use of the advantages they offer in the

field. The models are the highest-performing,

most versatile and lowest-maintenance pumps

on the market,” added Füllenbach.

Oerlikon’s new vacuum pumps for R&D applications

Trützschler cards can produce 50 million cotton swabs per hourt

With the Rosink Quad Coiler, four slivers are coiled simultaneously into four cans

TURBOVAC T 350 i

S03 AFTEX 2 2014 - Textile News_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:55 Page 10

Stenter Montex 8000 with ECO Booster HRCThe intelligent, integrated heat recovery module ECO Booster HRC is

completely integrated into the new chamber design of the Montex 8000.

The new ECO Booster HRC module is characterised in that it is cleaned

automatically while the stenter range is running so that a constant

optimum efficiency is assured. It eliminates standstill times for

maintenance and hence significantly increases the range

availability. The ECO Booster HRC module is equipped with

an electric drive which permits computer-controlled optimisation

of the heat exchanger performance to the prevailing exhaust air

streams, something that is not possible with purely static heat

exchanger modules. The optimum efficiency of the

ECO Booster HRC allows process costs to be further reduced.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A Member of Fong’s Industries Group

www.monforts.com

SOUTH AFRICAN LUXURY terrytowelling producer Glodina hasdecided to deliver its latest Montexstenter, replacing two old unit.

The latest Montex, which wouldreplace two older stenters, willcontinue to deliver the same qualityand absorbent finish for Glodina’shigh-end terry towelling.

Glodina said that their two oldstenters, dating back to 1958 and 1962had become ‘virtually unrepairable’.The units were reportedly installed in2011 through Texmaco, the localrepresentative of Monforts. Now, thetwo units would be replaced by theMontex 6500.

The four chamber Montex providesworking widths of between 0.7 metres to2.20 metres and operates generally atspeeds of between 20 metres per minuteto 30 metres per minute, depending onweights and the moisture content.

Markus Eksteen, engineering manager,said, “The new technology of the latest

Montex made an instant impact being souser friendly, far fewer controls andguaranteed reproducibility."

Eksteen added that earlier, theywould manually adjust weftstraightening but with this machine,the entire process is automatic.

Glodina supplies major retailers andcaters to 80 per cent of South Africa'sbed-and-breakfast inns and hotels. Thecompany's range of terry towels aresnag resistant. The towels are availablein woven and warp knits, and feature

cotton as the main raw material. Thiscotton is dyed and bleached, washedand dried, before final finishing throughthe stenter to ensure the company’srenown soft and absorbent finish.

The company is also widely regardedfor its range of frequently complicatedand elaborate cross borders, featuringunique designs for each of Glodina’scustomers.

Glodina stated that it currentlyproduces around 2,200 tonnes perannum, accounting for roughly 30 percent of the local market.

The company dates back over 60years with the Ballaadon family buyingDano Dyeing and Printing Works in 1953and installing 20 looms to weave towelsand napkins. Glodina is currently part ofthe KAP International Group.

In 2001, the company was acquiredby Daun & Cie, and in 2005 was listedon the JSE as part of KAP InternationalHoldings. In 2012, Steinhoff becamethe major and controlling shareholder.

Luxury terry towelling producer Glodina to deliver latest Montex stenter


ADVERTORIAL

Glodina’s two units would be replaced by the Montex 6500

S03 AFTEX 2 2014 - Textile News_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:55 Page 11

Ian Holme

A

report on the global textile chemicals market

by Transparency Market Research, USA,

predicted that the global market will grow from

US$19.6bn in 2013 to US23.4bn by 2018. The sector

of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per

cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow

in line with increased global fibre consumption. The

Asia-Pacific region dominates the textile chemicals

market, both as producer and consumer, with a

market share of 52.3 per cent in 2011.

European dyemakers are consolidating their

presence in the region and DyStar has commenced

a second production line for its high quality DyStar

Indigo Vat 40 per cent solution. The second

production line started up on 1 April 2013 in

DyStar’s manufacturing hub in Nanjing, China and

will reach a designed capacity of 12,000 metric

tonnes a year.

In 2013, SK Capital, a private investment firm,

completed their acquisition of the Textile

Chemicals, Paper Specialities and Emulsions

business from Clariant and has combined the three

divisions into an “integrated, market-focussed and

highly collaborative company” called Archroma.

Archroma will have revenues of around US$1.3bn

with its products manufactured in 25 global

manufacturing facilities and has some 3,000

employees. Archroma will have its headquarters in

Switzerland and the Textile Chemicals business

division will be managed from Singapore.

The strong regulatory stance adopted within

Europe has forced European dyemakers to move

their manufacturing sites into Asia, a move that

places colourant manufacture nearer to the major

sources of textile fibre and fabric production, thereby

decreasing product distribution costs. The massive

investment in both dye and pigment manufacturing

capacity in China, for example, has resulted in

considerable economies of scale. Dye production

costs decreased and because of increasing global

competition and lower labour costs the purchase

price per kilo of dyes and pigments has fallen,

especially for commodity dyes and pigments that are

manufactured on a massive scale.

Now, in 2014, the dyes and pigments market is

entering into a new phase in which the market

bottomed out and prices are set to rise. A major

factor in this global price shift is the increasingly

strict approaches being taken by the Chinese and

Indian regulatory authorities to clamp down on

environmental issues because of the burgeoning

waste water pollution generated as a by-product of

dye manufacture. Another major factor is the

closing down of some chemical production facilities

that are major sources of pollution. This has led to a

serious shortfall in the global production of certain

chemical intermediates e.g. H-Acid, which are

essential for the production of many textile dyes. As

a result, there are likely to be production caps for

certain dyestuffs, problems of continuity of supply,

and rising prices for both intermediates and

dyestuffs. In some cases the increased prices for

chemical intermediates will result in dyemakers

turning these into higher value higher priced

dyestuffs where their profit margins are higher.

As colourant manufacturers move towards

“cleaner and greener” dye manufacturing this can

only come about through capital investment which

may leave their research and development

departments under cost pressures and decrease the

likelihood of new dyestuffs entering the global

market. This is likely to act as a barrier to

innovation so that technological change in textile

dyeing and printing could stagnate as a result.

New Dyestuffs

Huntsman Textile Effects has expanded its flagship

range of polyreactive Avitera SE dyes for exhaust

dyeing of cellulosic fibres. Combined with the

Gentle Power Bleach system, Avitera SE dyestuffs

enable cotton fabrics to be bleached, dyed and

washed off at temperatures not exceeding 60°C.

This decreases water and energy consumption and

carbon emissions by up to 50 per cent. Avitera SE

dyes are polyreactive which ensures that the

unfixed dye after dyeing is only five per cent or

less, compared with the more usual 15 per cent to

30 per cent in many reactive dye systems. As a

result, this greatly reduces the number of rinsing

baths required to remove unfixed/hydrolysed dyes

to obtain the highest colour fastness standards.

Huntsman Textile Effects has introduced a new

Light Red range of polyreactive dyestuffs giving a

bluish-red shade that can be used in a broad colour

spectrum of pale shades with high colour fastness

to light. For pale shades Huntsman Textile Effects

produce Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE,

Avitera Light Red SE and Avitera Light Blue SE.

For medium depths of colour Avitera Yellow SE,

Avitera Cardinal SE are complemented by Avitera

Red SE and Avitera Blue SE. For dark colours the

yellow and blue components are replaced by

Avitera Orange SE and Avitera Deep Blue SE

respectively. For very deep shades Huntsman

Textile Effects produce Avitera Orange SE, Avitera

Cardinal SE and Avitera Navy SE. The high

World market sees an emergence ofnew dyes and auxiliaries


COLOURANTS

The sector of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow inline with increased global fibre consumption

The strong regulatory stanceadopted within Europe has

forced European dyemakersto move their manufacturing

sites into Asia

S04 AFTEX 2 2014 - Printing_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:56 Page 12

aqueous solubility of Avitera SE dyestuffs

enables them to be applied at ultra-short liquor

ratios.

DyStar has expanded its range of Remazol

Deep Black reactive dyestuffs with two new

dyestuffs that offer enhanced colour strength and

build-up characteristics. The two newly patented

reactive dyestuffs are Remazol Onyx RGB and

Remazol Midnight Black RGB. These dyestuffs

exhibit high colour fastness to washing, very low

staining on polyamide fibres in fibre blends (e.g.

cotton / polyamide) as well as offering good

washing off performance and white

dischargeability. Both these new black dyestuffs

can be applied by the exhaust, cold pad-batch

and continuous application methods.

Remazol Onyx RGB is a neutral black while

Remazol Midnight Black RGB is a greenish

black and both dyestuffs fully comply with the

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and are AOX

(absorbable organohalide)-free and metal-free.

Archroma (formerly Clariant) has introduced

a range of dyestuffs that can be applied by its

Advanced Denim technology to expand the

spectrum of colours other than blue. Archroma’s

Advanced Denim Technology was originally

based upon their Diresul RDT dyestuffs.

However, they launched a new range of six

Optisul C dyestuffs in Paris at Première Vision

which are designed to provide soft denim colours

via a continuous dyeing method. The Optisul C

range are said to be affinity-free and sulphide-

free dyestuffs which meet both GOTS and

bluesign 1 criteria. Combinable with each other

at low concentration they enable denim to be

dyed in a wide colour gamut of easy to achieve

reproducible soft colours.

Avocet Dye & Chemical Company Ltd, UK,

has introduced a new navy dyestuff to their metal-

free Cetalan AV range. Cetalan Navy AV RLD

complements the range which now consists of 12

dyestuffs covering a wide colour gamut. Cetalan

Navy AV RLD and another new dye Cetalan Dark

Red AV D are designed for use in the wool or

wool/nylon carpet sector, but can also be applied

in wool fabric dyeing. Cetalan Navy AV RLD

enables textile dyers to achieve deep rich colours

while still offering good colour fastness to light

and washing. The Cetalan range of dyes are an

economic range of dyestuffs enabling dyers to

achieve deep colours while still meeting exacting

environmental and ecological standards.

DyStar has introduced two new reactive

dyestuffs, Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red

CA-N. The former is a non-photochromic yellow

that DyStar recommends for ternary pale-to-

medium depths of colour. Designed as a

replacement for Levafix Amber CA this new

dyestuff offers significantly less staining on

polyamide fibres. Levafix Amber CA-N offers

high colour fastness to both peroxide and chlorine.

Levafix Red CA-N is a bluish-red dyestuff

suitable for medium to dark shades, an excellent

partner for trichromatic combinations and an

alternative to Levafix Red CA. Both these new

Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red CA-N

reactive dyestuffs are applicable via exhaust or

continuous dyeing processes, are AOX-free,

metal-free and meet full compliance with Oeko-

Tex Standard 100 and all Restricted Substance

Lists. Additionally Levafix Amber CA-N can be

utilised in cold pad batch dyeing processes

because of its balanced migration behaviour

which provides very good reproducibility and

levelness of dyeing. A new green vat dyestuff

from DyStar is Indanthren Green CLF Coll,

which has an optimised particle size to provide the

best migration properties. This vat dyestuff

provides outstanding reproducibility as well as a

level and unique shade on polyamide/cotton

fabrics. Indanthren Green CLF Coll provides a

new basis for high colour fastness green shades

wherein the major part of the green colour is not

provided by blue and yellow dyes. For continuous

dyeing DyStar recommend the use of Sera Gal M-

IP, for exhaust dyeing Sera Sperse C-SN and for

two-phase printing Sera Print M-CAM.

Dyeing Auxiliaries

DyStar’s Remazol RGB and Remazol Ultra RGB

reactive dyestuff technology is now complemented

by a novel wash-clearing auxiliary that is used in

DyStar’s Sera Eco Wash process. SeraFast GRD

provides an accelerated wash-clearing action, the

auxiliary having been especially formulated to

speed up the removal of hydrolysed/unfixed

reactive dyestuffs. The Sera Eco Wash process

shortens the wash-clearing process at 60°C, thereby

saving on water, energy and processing time. In

this way machine productivity and process

sustainability are enhanced.

A new diffusion accelerator for enhancing

aqueous-based disperse dyeing of polyester

fibres has been introduced by Rudolf Chemie.

Suitable for dyeing both polyester and polyester

blends, Rucogal ERL is a non-ionic product

based upon a fatty alcohol ethoxylate and fatty

acid ester. Rucogal ERL is a self-emulsifying

liquid product that can be added directly to the

dyebath and is low foaming. Rucogal ERL

provides excellent levelling effects and is

suitable for correction of unlevel dyeing because

of its superior levelling performance. This

dyeing auxiliary is resistant to water hardness

problems and acids under normal dyehouse

conditions and imparts good colour-intensifying

effects even when applied at the boil. It is

applicable in all types of dyeing machinery.

Bozzetto Group has introduced a new carrier,

Cindye DNK, for the dyeing of aramid fibres to

very dark shades, which are normally extremely

difficult to achieve because of the compact high

crystalline fibre structure. Dyeing of aramid

fibres can thus be carried out using basic

dyestuffs, a strongly acid pH and Cindye DNK

which provides the accelerated diffusion of dyes

within the aramid fibres, with a consequent

increase in both the rubbing and wash fastness. ❑



par Ian Holme

BEN 2012, UNE étude sur les tendancesmondiales concernant les fibres a indiqué

que la production mondiale avait augmentéde 4,5 pour cent par rapport à l’annéeprécédente, atteignant 85,8 millions detonnes. Les synthétiques dominentdésormais le marché mondial et connaissentune croissance de six pour cent, atteignantun volume de 56 millions de tonnes, dont lafibre polyester constitue 41,4 millions detonnes. Une étude mondiale sur les fibressynthétiques réalisée par Tecnon OrbiChem,Londres, a prévu que la production mondialede fibres synthétiques passerait à 110,5millions de tonnes d'ici à 2020 et à 132millions de tonnes d'ici à 2025.

La production grimpera en flèche en raisonde la croissance de la population mondiale etde l’amélioration de la prospérité desindividus, associées à des cycles de modeplus courts. De plus, on observera unecroissance des matériaux textiles innovantset des nouvelles applications produits. Cesnouvelles applications serontparticulièrement importantes dans ledomaine des textiles techniques, car lesmarchés pour ces produits sont de plus enplus divers et se développent de façonsignificative. Cela sera alimenté par uneaugmentation de l’industrialisation dans lespays du Moyen-Orient et d’Afrique (MOAN),pendant que l’amélioration des normesd’hygiène stimulera la demande de non-tissés.

On constate également une croissancecontinue des biopolymères, qui sontidentiques chimiquement à ceux dérivés desproduits pétrochimiques, mais proviennentpartiellement de la biomasse. La productionde fibres de biopolyester (bio-PET) devraits’accroître pour passer à environ cinq millionsde tonnes d’ici à 2020, en partie grâce à laproduction de bioéthanol issu de la canne àsucre. Cependant, ce développement du bio-PET a plus de chance de survenir en Asie eten Amérique du Sud en raison d’un meilleur

accès aux matières premières et decontextes politiques favorables.

Dans le secteur des fibres naturelles, laproduction de fibres de coton a été estimée à25,4 millions de tonnes entre 2011 et 2013.Douze pays, notamment les Etats-Unis,l’Argentine, l’Australie, l’Afrique du Sud, l’Indeet la Chine, produisent du cotonbiotechnologique, également appelé coton «transgénique » ou « génétiquement modifié. »Cela représente environ 77 pour cent de laproduction mondiale de coton et 92 pour centdu coton biotechnologique produit dans lemonde.

A la lumière de ces développements, onpeut déterminer les principales zonesd'activité pour les fabricants de colorants et deproduits chimiques pour le textile, ainsi queleurs mélanges.

Colorants textilesUn rapport de la Transparency MarketResearch a prévu que le marché mondial desproduits chimiques pour le textile connaîtrait,par rapport à aujourd’hui, une croissance de20 pour cent d’ici à 2018, atteignant US$23,4milliards. En 2011, les colorants et lesauxiliaires représentaient 26,9 pour cent dumarché, mais le principal secteur était celuides produits chimiques de revêtement etd’encollage qui constituait 32,1 pour cent desparts de marché.

Un autre secteur, comprenant lestensioactifs, les agents de désencollage, lesagents de blanchiment et les lubrifiants de fil,représentait 22,9 pour cent du marchémondial des produits chimiques pour le textile.En 2011, la région Asie-Pacifique a dominé lemarché mondial des produits chimiques pourle textile avec une part de marché d’environ52,3 pour cent. Il pourrait s’agir du marché àplus forte croissance avec un taux decroissance moyen de quatre pour cent entre2013 et 2018.

Les colorants réactifs pour le coton et lesautres fibres cellulosiques restent un

important centre d’intérêt pour les fabricantsde colorants dans le monde.

Les tendances modernes du secteur, quinécessitent l’utilisation de couleurs vives à lamode dans des nuances intermédiaires àfoncées, favorisent les colorants à soliditéélevée des couleurs dans les gammes descolorants réactifs et des colorants de cuve,tant pour les textiles d’habillement que pour lelinge de maison.

Les colorants réactifs sont produits sous laforme de systèmes monofonctionnels,bifonctionnels ou polyfonctionnels. Lescolorants réactifs homo-bifonctionnels ethétéro-bifonctionnels sont courammentutilisés. L’augmentation du nombre degroupes fonctionnels réactifs aux fibres dansla molécule de colorant augmente la valeurde fixation potentielle du colorant sur la fibre,réduisant ainsi la quantité de colorant réactifnon fixé et hydrolysé à éliminer par un lavagesoigneux après la teinture. L'augmentation dela fonctionnalité du système réactif ducolorant augmente le coût de celui-ci, maiscela est compensé par une meilleure fixation,des temps de teinture/lavage plus courts etune moindre coloration, ainsi qu'un plus faiblevolume d'eaux résiduaires.

Huntsman Textile Effects a développé sagamme de colorants réactifs en introduisantles colorants tri-réactifs Avitera SE, quiincluent le nouveau Avitera Light Red SE. Cecolorant doit être combiné au Avitera YellowSE, au Avitera Cardinal SE et au Avitera LightBlue SE sur des nuances claires.

Pour les nuances intermédiaires,Huntsman recommande Avitera Yellow SE,Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Red SE etAvitera Blue SE. Les nuances foncéespeuvent être obtenues en utilisant AviteraOrange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera RedSE et Avitera Deep Blue SE. Pour lesnuances très foncées qui sont souventdemandées, Huntsman recommande AviteraOrange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE et AviteraNavy SE.

Face à une industrie textileen perpétuelle croissance,les nouveaux colorants ontle vent en poupe

14

COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014


Les innovations Avitera SE de Huntsmansont considérées comme un grand pas enavant dans les applications des colorantsréactifs. La teinture par épuisement et lelavage peuvent être mis en œuvre à destempératures allant jusqu'à 60 °C. De plus, laplus faible quantité de colorant réactif non fixé(en général cinq pour cent ou moins) diminuefortement le nombre de bains de rinçage et ladurée totale du lavage. Cela augmente laproductivité de la machine et laconsommation d'eau, d'énergie, ainsi que lesémissions de carbone peuvent être réduitesjusqu'à 50 pour cent.

DyStar a complété ses gammes decolorants réactifs Remazol RGB et RemazolUltra RGB par un nouvel additif deneutralisation du bain. Le Sera Fast C-RD aété formulé pour accélérer l'élimination descolorants réactifs hydrolysés à 60 °C. Il a uneaction prononcée d'accélération du lavage quiconduit à d'importantes économie en eau, enénergie et en temps de traitement. Cela a uneffet positif sur la productivité de la machineet sur la durabilité du procédé.

DyStar a introduit Levafix Amber CA-N, uncolorant jaune non photochromique conçupour une application dans des nuancesternaires claires à intermédiaires. Enremplacement du Levafix Amber CA, cenouveau colorant permet une réduction dudégorgement sur les polyamides, ainsi qu'unerésistance élevée de la couleur au peroxyded'hydrogène et au chlore. De même, leLevafix Red CA-N est une alternative auLevafix Red CA et fournit un colorant rougebleuté adapté aux nuances ternairesintermédiaires à foncées. Ces deuxnouveaux réactifs sont applicables par desprocédés d'épuisement ou de teinturecontinue.

Pour les machines de teinture pourpolyester, la commercialisation de la premièremachine à teindre les tissus sCO2 à l'échelleindustrielle apporte un formidablebouleversement de la teinture sans eau. Desmachines de teinture à trois faisceaux ont étéinstallées dans un atelier de teinture enThaïlande et permettent de teindre des lotsde tissu de 175-200 kg selon l'épaisseur dutissu et son poids par unité de surface.

Dans la teinture sCO2, des colorantsdispersibles spécialement conçus par Triade,aux Pays-Bas, sont utilisés dans desmachines fabriquées par DyeCOO TextileSystems BV. Les colorants de dispersionpour la teinture sCO2 sont commercialiséssous la marque DyeCOO. Dans la teinturesCO2, la quasi-totalité du colorant estabsorbé par le polyester, le procédé negénère pas d'eaux résiduaires et 95 pour centdu CO2 est recyclé dans le lot suivant.

La teinture est réalisée à 130 °C sous unepression de 300 bars, la conception est donc

robuste et répond aux normes de qualité. Letissu teinté ressort sec de la machine. Celaévite le séchage thermique pour éliminerl'eau. La diminution de la consommationd'énergie et de l'utilisation de produitschimiques réduirait les coûts de productionjusqu'à 50 %. Actuellement, DyeCOO travailleavec Huntsman à l'extension de latechnologie sCO2 et les premiers produitsdevraient apparaître pour les agents definition et les agents d’avivage fluorescents.

Auxiliaires et Agents de Finitionpour le TextileLa société Rudolf basée en Allemagne aintroduit Rucogal ERL, un accélérateur dediffusion non ionique pour la teinture dupolyester et des mélanges de polyester. Peumoussant, auto-émulsionnable, Rucogal ERLest un produit liquide à base d'un éthoxylatealcool gras et d'un ester d'acide gras. RucogalERL résiste à la dureté de l'eau et aux acidesdans les conditions normales d'un atelier deteinture et peut être appliqué dans tous lestypes de machine de teinture. Il confère debons effets d'intensification des couleurs etune excellente performance d'égalisation.

Le ITOSOLT LJ550 de LJ Specialities, auRoyaume-Uni, a été spécialement conçu pourpermettre une excellente élimination de lagraisse sur les tissus grèges alliée à uneexcellente dispersion pour empêcher que lagraisse se redépose sur le tissu. Pour lesdispersions de colorants à hautestempératures, LJ Specialities a fabriqué leTOSOLT SN550. Ce produit auxiliaire estégalement conçu pour éliminer les problèmesde tacheture ou de dégorgement de colorantdans les machines.

La société indienne Sarex Chemicals aintroduit Careguard FF, un produit de finitionhydrofuge sans fluor, durable et respectueuxde l'environnement pour les tissus destinésaux vêtements d'extérieur, de loisirs et desport. Careguard FF se base sur une matriced'hydrocarbure avec des polymèreshyperramifiés qui lui permettent de résister àplus de 20 traitements de lavage. Adapté auxtraitements de soin LAD (Laundry Air Dry), leCareguard FF est sans paraffine et sansformaldéhyde ; il est conçu pour uneapplication sur des tissus en fibrescellulosiques et les tissus de mélangecellulosique/synthétique.

Huntsman a introduit son EverGlide LowFriction Systems, une finition textile pourtous les types de substrats qui peut réduireles frottements du tissu contre la peau pourles vêtements de sport. Cette finition confèreun toucher doux et soyeux et a déjàdémontré qu'elle était quatre fois plusefficace que les adoucissants conventionnelssur les tricots nylon/élastane et polyester.L'EverGlide Low Friction Systems de

Huntsman a de faibles propriétés dejaunissement et n’affecte pas la blancheur dutissu dans des conditions de moisissure ou lathermomigration. Cette finition estextrêmement durable et a de bonnesperformances dans un environnementhumide. Elle présente en outre l’avantaged’intégrer un système de gestion del’humidité « cool comfort » qui favorise unséchage rapide et une bonne régulation de latempérature corporelle.

Pour de nombreuses applications, lesfinitions antistatiques pour les matériauxpolyesters sont essentielles pour éviter que levêtement colle et qu’il accumule del’électricité statique. Ruco Stat ADM deRudolf est à base d’un éthoxylate d'alkylecationique. Il est applicable par épuisementou foulardage sur des fibres de polyester oude polyamide sans effet sur le toucher dutissu. Les fibres doivent également êtrerésistantes à un lavage doux. Avec Ruco StatADM, aucun traitement thermique n’estnécessaire pour conférer une durabilité à lafibre. La combinaison de Ruco Stat ADM etde finitions hydrophiles, telles que Feran ICS,peut améliorer l’effet antistatique.

Dans le secteur des ignifuges pour textiles,les sociétés font face à une pressioncroissante des écotoxicologues en raison del’utilisation d’ignifuges halogénés, enparticulier d’ignifuges à base de brome. De cefait, de nombreuses sociétés de produitschimiques mènent des recherches pourtrouver des alternatives aux produits, tels quele DecaBDE (décabromodiphényl éther) quiest couramment utilisé dans les formulationsd’enduction d’envers.

La société Avocet Dye & Chemical, baséeau Royaume-Uni, produit sa gamme CetaflamBC6, qui utiliserait la meilleure technologied'ignifuge disponible, équivalente auDecaBDE. Des composés ou additifs prêts àl’emploi sont disponibles et le Cetaflam BC6revendique sa conformité à l’ensemble deslégislations environnementales actuelles.Avocet a également sa gamme Cetaflam BC8qui est totalement sans halogène et peut êtrecomplétée par des additifs constitués d’unmélange spécial avec lequel l’enducteur detextile peut être mélangé sur place.

TANA COAT OMP, conçu par TanatexChemicals, est un autre nouveau produit pourl’enduction des textiles. Ce produit peuts’utiliser comme couche de fond souple, avecTANA COAT MTO comme couche de finitionmoyenne à dure. Les caractéristiquesremarquables de cette combinaison derevêtements sont les excellentes propriétésde résistance à la lumière et la résistance auxUV. Ce système de revêtement offre une trèsbonne résistance à l’hydrolyse et, par ailleurs,le revêtement final est résistant à l’action desmoisissures et champignons. ❑

COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES

15TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014


The ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 show is expected to give the booming Asian market a platform to

experience better technology and improve skills to compete with international players

I

TMA ASIA + CITME 2014 is all set to showcase

in Shanghai, China, from 16 June to 20 June at

the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.

This edition will see exhibitors in 13 halls,

spread across 152,000 square metres — a 15 per

cent increase from the previous edition that was

held in 2012. Till date, ITMA has seen 1,351

textile machinery manufacturers from 27 countries

and regions participate.

According to the organisers, this year the

Chinese exhibitors are taking up largest exhibition

area, having booked a little over 66 per cent of the

space. The European contingent has booked 22 per

cent of the area, making them the second largest set

of manufacturers at the expo.

Statistics from the General Administration of

Customs said that China’s exports of textiles and

garments amounted to US$26bn in 2013, which

is an increase of seven per cent over the same

period last year.

Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX,

said, “Textile machinery manufacturers are still

buoyant about the Asian market, particularly China.

Investments in cost-effective technology to help the

textile and garment industry stay ahead of the

competition are still strong. As such, our combined

show will continue to be the unrivalled marketing

platform for textile machinery manufacturers

tapping into the vibrant China market.”

China continues to focus on upgrading

technology and skills to reach an international

level for textile and other industry sectors, and this

is one of the priorities under the government’s 12th

Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015).

Wang Shutian, president of China Textile

Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “Interest

in the combined show remains extremely strong,

especially from Chinese textile machinery

manufacturers. As China’s textile industry

continues its transformation, the demand for

advanced machinery and technology is on the rise.

This is also reflected in the current uptrend in

textile machinery trade.”

Rieter has a lot to offer

The know-how relating to financing, spinning

mill planning, use of the right technological

elements, selection of the correct spinning

process as well as many other competences are

necessary to achieve success in the operation of a

spinning plant. Rieter is presenting all its

expertise at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014.

Rieter will display a model of the 1.5 metre wide

C 70 card with the biggest active carding area.

Visitors will also witness the SB-D 22 double-

head draw frame ensuring maximum productivity

at delivery speed up to 1 100 m/min and a unique

automatic can changer up to 1,000mm.

The G 32 ring spinning machine (operational)

produces ring, fancy ring, twin and compact ring-

spun yarn – quality controlled by the ISM

individual spindle monitoring system.

High productivity and excellent Com4®rotor

yarn quality with yarn-like piecings will be

highlights of the fully-automatic R 60 rotor

spinning machine (operational).

A new generation of the J 20 air-jet spinning

machine (operational) will be introduced with new

concepts of spin unit automation, winding and

machine prolongation to 200 units.

What the benefits and characteristics of the 4

spinning systems mean for downstream processing

can be experienced by visitors. Here fabric

samples and end products of the 4 Rieter Com4®

yarns are available.

DiloGroup’s latest innovations

Germany-based DiloGroup has said that it would

provide information about production lines made

in Germany and recent machine concepts from the

DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau

and DiloMachines at the textile event.

A major focus of the new equipment is to

improve operation efficiency, web quality and

uniformity with positive effects on all staple fibre

bonding processes, stated the company. These

elements are part of the ‘Dilo – Isomation Process’

and aim at an even web mass for reduced fibre

consumption as raw material is the biggest cost

factor in textile production.

One machine contributing to this process is the

dosing opener DON manufactured by DiloTemafa,

which includes a fine opening stage and delivers

the fibrous material continuously and

homogeneously to the card feeder.

Card feeder MultiFeed, designed by

DiloSpinnbau, is available in working widths up to

five metres. This machine using the ‘Twinflow’

infeed system offers a capacity of over 400

kg/hour/m of working width when processing 1.7

dtex fibres, represents a state-of-the-art feeding

solution for direct cards.

Organisers added that ITMA ASIA + CITME

2014 is being promoted throughout Asia by means

of numerous roadshows and visits to trade

associations. Recent roadshows in India,

Indonesia, Pakistan, Turkey and Vietnam have

drawn very positive responses from the local

industries, and delegations and groups of visitors

from key textile manufacturing economies have

indicated their intention to visit the showcase. ❑

China gears up for the fourth edition


ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 saw more than 92,000 visitors from more than 107 countries and regions during the five-day show

J 20 air-jet spinning machine by Rieter

S05 AFTEX 2 2014 - Events_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:57 Page 16

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EVENT NEWS

NEARLY 2,300 EXHIBITORS from 36 countries

and regions took part in the HKTDC Hong Kong

Houseware Fair and the HKTDC Hong Kong

International Home Textiles & Furnishings Fair,

that was held from 20 April to 23 April at the

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Organised by Hong Kong Trade Development

Council, the fair featured 16 group pavilions,

including the ASEAN select pavilion, hosting 60

exhibitors from five countries namely Indonesia,

Malaysia, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam.

The fair highlights included three new zones —

avenue of inspiration, presenting innovative

houseware from Hong Kong start-up companies;

creative arts and cultural craft; and baby and

children’s homeware.

The Hall of Elegance was back, with brands

such as BWT (Austria), Happycall (South Korea),

Metier (Hong Kong), Multiple Choice by

Topchoice (Hong Kong), Thomas Pottery (Hong

Kong) and Vigar (Spain). The show also saw the

return of the World of Fine Décor, World of Fine

Dining, the World of Pet Supplies and the Small-

Order Zone. Other product zones at the event

included green living, health & wellness, home-

tech, kitchenware and gadgets and outdoor living.

World of Textiles

The fifth Home Textiles and Furnishings Fair

featured more than 220 exhibitors from seven

countries and regions, including newcomers

Czech Republic and Portugal. The fair also

included a pavilion from the Chinese mainland, as

well as two from India — the Handloom Export

Promotion Council and the Export Promotion

Council for Handicrafts.

The new design solutions and trade services

zone showcased interior design and product

design offerings. Other zones include baby &

bedroom textiles, bathroom & kitchen textiles,

carpet & floor coverings, upholstery & furnishing,

and window fashion & accessories.

In addition, the two fairs together presented a

number of events, including product

demonstrations and ASEAN kitchen shows.

The show acted as an information exchange

platform. The Product Demo and Launch Pad

session provided suppliers with opportunities

to announce their latest products in an

interactive setting with buyers. Networking

Reception brought together industry players to

an occasion conducive to forging and

strengthening relationships.

The next show will be held on 20-23 April 2015.

SOURCE AFRICA WILL take place for the second time in South Africa’s

Cape Town starting 18 June 2014. The three-day event is touted as the most

important annual pan-African textile, clothing and footwear trade event on

the international calendar encouraging linkages between buyers,

manufacturers and suppliers, investment into manufacturing capacity in

Africa and accelerating job creation for many years to come.

Source Africa 2013 demonstrated what can be achieved when USAID’s

regional experts join forces with private enterprise, LTE – leaders in trade

exhibitions, in South Africa to boost regional industry. The event was

designed to show that African textile, apparel & footwear manufacturers can

compete on price, quality and standards. It brought together manufacturers,

suppliers and service providers in one major integrated event, enabling

African and International buyers to examine a wide array of products and

services in one efficient trip.

Source Africa 2014 will include a two-day trade exhibition, African country

pavilions, international business seminars organised by the American Apparel

& Footwear Association (AAFA), an opening plenary session and cocktail

receptions. Another important element will be the professional online

matchmaking programme. By effectively combining online technology

together with a team of business matchmakers, event participants are

profiled, provided access to an online matchmaking calendar with the ability

to view and select exactly who they want to meet.

The Source Africa Trade Expo is expected to once again attract over 2,000

decision makers who will have the opportunity to view an extensive range of

products and services from more than 180 exhibitors.

Source Africa was designed to demonstrate that African suppliers and

manufacturers can compete on price, quality and standards.

“It is clear that Africa sits on the threshold of new opportunities for export

diversification and regional integration in these industries. Moreover, there

seems to be an agreement that with higher costs in Asia and the saturation of

some key sourcing platforms in Asia and elsewhere, Africa has a chance to

become a new sourcing destination’, says Steve Lamar, Executive Vice

President, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) and

Source Africa event supporter.

William Scalco, Member, LTE South Africa, said, “We have great plans in

store to boost intra-regional trade as well as grow global opportunities for the

industry. An exciting announcement is that USAID and AAFA have once

again partnered with us to develop Source Africa into the most important

trade event for the footwear, clothing and textiles industries in Africa. An

extensive marketing and promotional campaign will be launched to attract

even more African and international trade buyers and exhibitors.”

Source Africa 2013 saw 1,401 trade visitors, 170 exhibitorsand 36 top buyers from local and international retailers

Hong Kong International Textile fair was undoubtedly Asia’s largest

Source Africa to demonstrate the continent’s textile manufacturing strength

The show acted as an information exchange platform



THE IMMENSE POTENTIAL market that exists for technical textiles inthe Middle East region, in particular its uses in the safety and protectionareas, was the focus of the inaugural Techtextil Middle East Symposiumheld alongside Intersec 2014 in January at the Dubai InternationalConvention and Exhibition Center.

The two-day series of presentations and interactive panel discussionsorganised by International Newsletters in association with MesseFrankfurt, showcased on the fast-growing technical textiles industry witha particular emphasis on their applications in the Middle East region.

Technical textiles are synthetic fabrics designed with purefunctionality in mind and are currently in demand by a vast array ofindustries including for automotive applications, medical, geotextiles,agro and protective textiles.

Leading industry representatives underlined the tremendousbenefits to be gained by the appropriate use of technical textiles inprotective and safety functions.

The Middle East region, currently enjoying a phase of considerableeconomic growth accompanied by a surge in the creation of newinfrastructure and transport and logistics facilities offers enormouspotential for the use of Protech (technical textiles especially for thesafety and protection of workers) and Buildtech (textiles for buildingand construction). The role of protective gear in keeping wearers coolin extreme conditions was discussed in a presentation by TechnicalAbsorbents Ltd. (UK), while Norafin spoke about the use of non-wovens in protective gear. Other topics discussed included theimportance of standards and testing; innovation and technical textilesand experts took a look at the global markets for technical textiles.

“Non-wovens are among the fast growing sectors of the technicaltextiles market,” said Christian Rosenkrantz, business developmentmanager at Norafin. “With possible applications across a broadspectrum of end uses ranging from medical products through technicalcomposites to protective apparel, non-wovens are set to play anincreasingly more visible part in the technical textiles market.”

Organised by Messe Frankfurt, Techtextil is the leading trade fair.Techtextil is present with five brand shows in significant markets suchas China, India, Russia and the US.

As emerging markets go, when it comes to the safety and securityindustry, Africa is a continent that holds tremendous potential forgrowth. This was evidenced at Intersec 2014, which witnessed 70 percent more visitors from Africa over the previous show’s numbers.Around 1,213 exhibitors from 54 countries and more than 24,700visitors from 156 countries visited the shows.

Techtextil Middle East highlights marketpotential for technical textiles in region

At Techtextil Middle East 2014, attendees discovered the immense potential of technical textiles, as well as their relevance and specific applicability to the safety and protection market



A

LTHOUGH KNIFE CUTTING is the

traditional and most used form of

numerically controlled computerised cutting, there

are alternative methods.

NC Knife cutting

The textile industry has been using numerically

controlled cutting techniques for several decades.

These machines are being continuously

developed and enhanced whilst new companies

enter the market.

The new Eastman Raptor models have been

designed to meet the needs of clients in the

apparel, industrial fabrics and composites

industries cutting traditional textiles such as

cotton, wool and denim, as well as modern

technical materials like Kevlar, non-woven

polyesters, foam-backed vinyl and other industrial

fabrics. Newly engineered features include

numerous design upgrades for improved operation

of automatic multiple-ply cutting including heavy-

duty gantry design; improved access for

maintenance and replacement of internal

components and consumable items; sensors for

monitoring optimum cycle speeds; while direct

knife cooling improves cutting speeds and the

ability to cut heavier-ounce materials.

By applying a mix of technical characteristics

and innovative materials, FK Group’s Top Cut 6

‘Fast Revolution’ has been developed to accelerate

both speed and productivity even when cutting

particularly difficult materials. The automatic

conveyor cutting system with six cm cutting head

has been developed for small and medium

production, with changes from multiple plies to

single ply cutting taking only a few seconds.

Features include medium electrical consumption

of 5.5KW; “Ecopower“ intelligent vacuum

management for low power consumption;

“Mectronics Blade Sense” automatic knife

deflection correction; “EVO CUT” intuitive

software for setting cutting parameters; a patented

high speed sharpening system and “Vortec”

refrigerated 0°C to 6°C knife cooling system for

technical textiles/synthetics; together with remote

technical assistance.

FIAB produces technical textile cutting

machines mainly designed to cut PVC and non-

porous fabrics 0.05mm to 1.5mm in depth. Two

rolls or more can be cut simultaneously but no

more than five, using a conveyorised table. A very

fine scalpel-like cutting tool is used, along with a

pizza knife and ink drawing tool. LANTwec

software takes the AutoCAD patterns to produce

the marker, automatically applying margins

required for welding purposes.

Filiz Makina San ve Tic AS can cut multiple

layers up to two to three cms in height using a flat

table with air transferring material, as opposed to a

bristle bed, which still uses vacuum to hold the

fabric. It uses a high oscillating altitude combined

with carbide knives which can be far thinner than

steel, enabling fine detail and provide a very low

co-efficient of friction. The cutting tables come in

a range of sizes from 1.65 metres x 1.05 metres to

3.3 metres x 5 metres.

The M Series from Gerber Innovations, part of

Gerber Technology, is able to cut a wide range of

technical textiles from very thin flexible fabrics to

hard wood and aluminium. It is available in lengths

up to five metres and widths up to 2.26 metres in a

large range of sizes, and features advanced tooling,

unobstructed table access, laser pointer, powerful

vacuum hold-down, low-noise operation and a

built-in safety beam. The T3 (Total Tooling

Technology) head offers a full package of

automatically identifiable tool inserts, including a

bevel knife and 45º 3D cutting tool to address the

demands of today’s packaging materials. The

optional Mvision-cut optical system features

accurate print-to-cut registration and compensates

for skew and linear distortion. The Windows front-

end graphical user interface offers all the tools for

an independent off-line production system whilst

maintaining compatibility with all major CAD

systems. It is also available with an easy-to-use

touchscreen option.

The Kuris TexCut High Ply Cutter has been

developed for manufactures changing from a

manual to automated cutting and is said to be simple

New ‘cutting’ edgemethods rule the roost

Africa and the Middle East

APPAREL

With the continuous development of numerically controlled cutting

techniques, Niki Tait outlines what’s new in the market from some of

the key suppliers

S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 20

CUTTING


enough for beginners. It is available in different

models to cater for 25mm to 80mm compressed

cuts. Applications include the garment, automotive,

aviation and aerospace, furniture, construction, boat

and railway industries. The bristle belt provides an

effective cutting length of 2.2 metres, 3.5 metres or

4.5 metres. The maximum cutting speed is 45

metres per minute with positioning speed of 60

metres per minute. Automatic parallelism

monitoring eliminates the need for subsequent

manual alignment of the lay. Knives are available in

a variety of sizes ranging from 1.2mm x 6mm to

3mm x 9mm and are available with different

coatings while blades can be either serrated of saw

grinding edges and consist of HSS or carbide. There

is the option of a smart knife which provides

automatic compensation of knife bending.

Lectra’s Vector range, supported by powerful

software and intuitive controls, includes

appropriate models for automotive, fashion,

furniture, and composite material manufacturers.

Features include a cutting thickness of up to nine

cm, vibration frequency of up to 6,000 vibrations

per minute, user-friendly controls, an enhanced

visibility management system and advanced

integrated software for the automatic generation of

activity reports. With a built-in cutting head

camera, the user can locate a precise starting point.

By using a colour-coded indicator system at the top

of the chimney stack and LEDS on the cutting

head, Vector automatically and continuously

signals the machine status. Using intuitive touch-

control technology the user is guided through the

production process, while the real-time dashboard

provides full visual management of the cutting

process. Its onboard intelligence monitors machine

behaviour, and offers a real-time interface to

Lectra’s call centres.

A completely new range of products make up

the Macpi Group’s IMA EVO PLUS SERIES

including the new cutting machine Formula Evo

Plus 918. The use of the latest generation of

electronics is designed to ensure complete digital

control of each micro-operation providing the

capability to adapt its technical and operational

characteristics to the different types of fabric and

ply height from single ply to six cm compressed,

allowing constancy in cutting precision. It also

enables maximum possible speed of execution

with adjustment in the power absorbed by vacuum

according to needs, offering great energy savings.

The interactive touchscreen panel provides the

operator with all machine functions.

Designed for use in the apparel, upholstery,

technical, automotive and aerospace industries,

Pathfinder has recently introduced its new 3, 5, 7

or 10 cm lay height capacity M-series flexible

material knife cutting system into the European

market. The M-series machine is 99 per cent

recyclable at the end of its useable life, has only

one control circuit board assembly, and, the

company claims, less than 50 per cent of the

moving components of most competitors, meaning

virtually no maintenance, while it’s digital vacuum

system has been developed to significantly reduce

power consumption. All its parts are produced

internally at one location.

Shanghai Yin Science and Technology Company

Limited from China, established as recently as

2006, already offers an impressive production line

integrating CNC cutting machines, intelligent

spreading machines, CAD software, and leather

cutting machines, rapid garment systems and three-

dimensional anthropological measuring systems.

Its latest automatic cutting machine, the YIN HY-Q

Series is aimed mainly at sportswear, knitwear, car

interior trim parts and furnishing. The new speed

response movement control system increases

cutting speed. One body design is applicable to

both fixed and conveyor models . A separated

vacuum system provides for quieter running.

The new Premium Cut ELC single ply cutter

from TopCut Bullmer is claimed one of the fastest

on the market with cutting speeds of up to 150

metres per minute. With no need for bottom paper

or top plastics, the company claims it can cut a total

trouser with 10 corners within seconds using a

segmented knife. The single ply cutter can also be

used for cutting carbon fibre and plastic foils, whilst

using a router it can also cut wood and other solids

including parts for aircraft. An inkjet printer can be

added to the cutting head for marking, printing serial

numbers, and other notations. If matching of fabric

is required, there is an optional matching camera

based system, as well as a cradle mechanism for

preparing the next ply ready for cutting.

Zund make modular based single ply cutters for

the graphic, technical textiles, home textiles,

packaging and upholstery industry. Cutting tools

include straight knives, rotating knives, oscillating

knives and routing tools, plus a creasing tool for

the packaging industry. A camera system is

incorporated to pre-scan what is to be cut. Cutters

tables are available from 1300mm x 800mm to

3200mm x 3200mm. All flexible fabrics can be cut

to a thickness of 50mm.

The Electric Oscillating Tool (EOT) is designed

for cutting soft and medium-density materials up

to 28 mm/one-inch thick.

Laser

Modern woven and spacer fabrics, as well as

multilayers, fleece, needle fleece, glass fibre,

thermo-resistant and other technical textiles can all

benefit from being cut by laser, say eurolaser

GmbH, who maintain that the contactless

processing via the laser beam and the related non-

deforming cutting and high precision, are crucial

arguments for the use of laser technology. The

laser beam has no tool wear, it does not need any

work piece fixing, and offers high precision up to

1/10 mm while reducing or eliminating fraying

especially when cutting mixed fibres.

Eurolaser produces XY motion controlled laser

cutters, with 40 per cent of its lasers being sold to

the textile industry. These are mainly aimed at the

filter and automotive industries for convertible

tops, seats, and so on, as well as for synthetic

sportswear and underwear where edge sealing is

beneficial. Lasers used are up to 600-watt and

tables come in widths up to 3.2 metres. The key

benefit of laser is that it cuts and seals in one

operation. At one metre per second, it can be faster

than knife cutting and is contactless. Marker pens

or ink markers can be added to the cutting head,

just as with a knife cutter.

With its ‘New Generation’ 3XL-3200, textile

sheets up to 3,210mm wide can be processed. For

roll material, an automatic conveyor material feed

is available, feeding to the laser cutter directly

from the roll and routed after cutting directly to a

table extension, meaning cut sections can be

almost endless. Bale material is fed via an

automatic feeding unit in which the edge controller

ensures accurate positioning of the material. There

is also an option to add a winding unit to the

Conveyor System.

Gerber Technology offers the Keehwa Laser

Cutting System available in static or conveyorised

format and powered by Gerber Technology’s

CutWorks software. The systems are powered

using a sealed CO2 laser and integrate with most

industry CAD packages. The Keehwa HiCUT

C200 laser cutter designed with an integral

The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has been developed for the automated2D or 3D cutting of a wide range of materials using pure water jet technology



CUTTING

conveyor cutting table, automatic fabric feeder,

and material off-load device, enables cutting and

sealing of single-ply materials in one continuous

process. A powerful vacuum system holds material

firmly in place during laser cutting to ensure

precision. The intelligent speed control system

monitors productivity and adjusts as necessary.

The laser is suitable for cutting a wide selection of

fabrics and materials including those used for

upholstery, airbags, jeans, paragliders, parachutes

and others. The effective cutting area is 10,000mm

× 1,800mm with a maximum cutting height of 3 to

5mm. The maximum carriage moving speed is

1,016mm/sec while the maximum cutting speed

equals 508mm/sec with an accuracy of 0.05mm.

Specially developed for technical textiles and

composite materials, Lectra’s Focus laser cutting

has been designed specifically for the filter market,

which is characterised by a considerable diversity

of materials to cut, thus requiring great flexibility

in its production processes. This cutter, associated

with the FocusPilot TechTex operating software,

enables quality cutting, irrespective of the type of

technical textiles and composite materials. The

equipment is web-connected to optimise the

communication with call centres allowing answers

in real time. The company also offer laser cutting

as an option for air-bag manufacturers.

Water Jet

The Expert Systemtechnik waterjet cutting

systems are characterised by the fact that they

operate with extreme precision and cutting speed

without changing the properties of the material to

be cut. Synthetic leather, leather, plastic,

cardboard, rubber and a host of technical materials

can be cut using water jet technology with

numerous advantages compared to mechanical

cutting claimed, such as minimal water

consumption, low tool wear and the extremely

hardwearing cutting base resulting in minimal

operating costs and environment friendly.The

water jet provides for contactless cutting using XY

coordinates at 70 metres per minute. It is a very

thin jet, the material being cut does not get wet due

to the small amounts used (0.2 litres of water per

minute). The material sits on a steel mesh which

the water passes through purely by speed, pressure

and gravity without the need for any vacuum, and

is still clean after cutting so needs no post

treatment. If synthetic leather is used up to ten

plies thick can be cut. Up to 2/3-inch foam can

also be cut on this machine.

The main customer for this machine is the

automotive, upholstery, textile, shoe or technical

market involved with single ply cutting of customer

specific orders. Repeatability lies at a constant +/-

0.2mm. The highly energised bundled jet of water

is pressed out of a precious stone nozzle with a

diameter of between 0.1 and 0.25 mm at a pressure

of up to 3,800 bars, adjustable according to the

material. The cutting speed lies between 70 and 120

m per minute. The combination of the jet of water

and high cutting speed means hardly any moisture

penetrates the material.

Cutting accuracy remains constant during the

entire cutting process as this is a non-contact

cutting method. The high pressure and the fineness

of the nozzle mean the material is cut into directly

from above. There is, therefore, no mechanical

displacement. A special cutting surface of steel

honeycombs ensures that the leather cannot move

after laying down. In addition, adhesion of the

leather to the table can be increased by the use of

water-soluble glue. The thickness of material

which can be cut using water jet technology is

determined by the nature of material.

The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has

been developed for the automated 2D or 3D

cutting of a wide range of materials using pure

water jet technology.

Suteau Anver has introduced the Hydrojet water

jet cutting machine. It includes a hydro-process

high pressure generator and have been developed

to cut materials such as rubber, textiles, leather,

gaskets, foam materials, plastics, composites, floor

coverings, rock wool, pre-impregnated carbon

fibre fabric, and others. In terms of advantages

over other processes, the company explains it can

up to 150mm; homogenous, heterogeneous or

composite materials can be cut; cold cutting emits

no heat and has no impact on the structure of the

materials; several cutting heads can be controlled

simultaneously and the process is suitable for 2/3

or 5 axle systems, CN or robot controlled.

With the Hydrojet 2020/2030/2040/2060

series of water jet cutting machines the stainless

tank is built into the structure and the water level

can be adjusted.

Combination

Top of the range from Blackman and White,

developed for heavier duly industrial materials or

applications with complex tooling requirements,

the MasterCut 2200 provides a combination of

versatility with rigidity and torsional strength. The

MasterCut 2200 has the capability to

simultaneously carry a laser, passive tooling (knife

with steel or carbide blade, creasing and plotting

pen), the ACTI-V or powered tooting suite

(including driven wheel, vibratory blade, hot knife

and 45 degree bevelled cutter), an ink jet printer

for part marking, a plotter pen, a routing facility

and a digital camera for part recognition. In

addition, the MasterCut 2200 can be fitted with a

label printer and placer. Designed for those

working with wide format digital printing, textile

graphics or soft signage through to marine hypalon

sanding, the machine comes in three different

cutting widths (2.1m, 3.2m or 5m), or custom sizes

to cut lengths of over 100 metres. The maximum

cutting speed is 1500 mm/second.

The Eastman M 9000 is a multiply cutter which

can cut up to 7 cm high. Tool heads can be changed

between a standard tool head which uses a pressure

wheel; fibre tool for cutting foams and fibres such as

cushion stuffing; heavy duty which can run 24/7;

200-watt laser for sealing edges, for example on

airbags, window shades, parachutes etc.; router

which can cut Ptex, for example, used for snowboard

bases; leather cuter; inject and labelling system.

Within the next six months an ultrasonic option will

be available. The laser option has variable speed and

wattage and can cut two to three times faster than a

knife, with speeds up to 150 cm per second on a

straight line. The table can be either static or

conveyorised and the widest cutting machine can

reach 6-7 metres. 95 per cent of machine problems

can be rectified over the phone as Eastman can

access the machines remotely via modem.

Hauser, a company owned by Parker

Automation have developed complete automated

cutting solutions to suit each customer’s needs.

These may include cross cutting, length cutting,

and stacking of home textiles, upholstery, PE

foams, paper, copper foils, non-wovens, laminates

or all sorts of technical textiles including filter

materials, pre-pregs and compounds, as well as

nearly all flexible materials with material widths,

which can be in excess of 1.82 metres. The main

cutting system is flexible through its modular

structure and multiple options which include strip

rewinding, edge guiding, roll and pallet

processing, continuous feeding for inline

application, pallet feeding and A-frame unwinding.

Cutting options include round knife, guillotines,

ultrasonic and thermal cutting with ultrasonics.

The Pathfinder L-series single-low ply

automatic knife cutting system/cutter plotter has

been developed for the technical textile industry.

According to the company ‘the intuitive PathCut

cutter control software provides the ultimate

flexibility from a single operator interface without

additional knobs, joysticks or control interfaces,

providing ergonomics and ease of operation-

optimizing efficiency of man and machine’. A

check matching system is also available, as is

inkjet and airbrush marking, the later used for

foam and dimpled material where inkjet cannot be

effectively used. Thus serial numbers, sewing

lines, and other notations can be marked direct

onto the fabric. For fabric which needs edge

sealing the company offer a single ply ultrasonic

cutter. As it explains, cutting is faster using the

knife but although the ultrasonic head is more

expensive, high-speed ultrasonic cutting can be a

less expensive alternative where high production

using many different types of synthetic fabrics is

used. The knife and ultrasonic heads are

interchangeable on the L-Series. ❑

Brother Internationale ..................................9

Industrie Machinen GmbH

Dilo Machines GmbH ................................19

Erhardt + Leimer GmbH ............................13

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ..................................24

Monforts A. Textilmaschinen ....................11

Gmbh & Co Kg

Staubli International AG................................2

AD INDEX


MOREOVER


I

NDUSTRIALISATION OF THE textile

industry and use of a large variety of chemical

treatments and dyes has resulted in health threat

created by pollution. Around 17 per cent to 20 per

cent of industrial freshwater pollution is caused by

textile dyeing and treatment. Estimations state that

10 per cent to 15 per cent of total dyestuffs

(equivalent to 280,000 tonnes of dyestuffs) used

during the manufacturing of textile products is

released into the environment worldwide annually.

A recent survey by Greenpeace in 15 countries

across the globe found that water scarcity and

water pollution are the two top environmental

concerns of the world’s population.

There are a wide range of mostly organic

compounds of complex structure used in the textile

dyeing and finishing process. In regards to

wastewater, dyestuffs may be classified into two

groups — those that don’t undergo chemical

reactions like acid, basic, direct, disperse, pigment

and solvent; and those that undergo reactions like

vat, sulphur and azoic.

Of these, the processes involving reactive

chemistry use chemicals that independently are

non-toxic, but react with the other chemicals used

in manufacturing to create a third substance which

is toxic. This reaction can occur during various

stages in the product lifecycle, and can vary greatly

dependent not only on the dye compound created,

but also on factors such as the fibre choice, fabric

structure, or machinery used.

Composite textile waste-water is characterised

mainly by measurements of biochemical Oxygen

Demand (BOD), Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)

suspended solids (SS), and dissolved solids (DS).

The majority of chemical use in textile finishing

processes occurs during ‘wet processing’, such as

dyeing, washing, printing and fabric finishing.

According to surveys measuring natural resource

use in all industries, textile dyeing and finishing

mills use considerably more water than most — as

much as 200 tonnes of water for every tonne of

textiles produced. Many of the chemicals used in

textile production are non-hazardous, but a

relatively small proportion of these chemicals are

potentially hazardous. However, in absolute terms,

a considerably large number of hazardous

chemicals are used in textile production due to the

very large number of chemicals used.

Textile wastewater contains many pollutants

including acids, dispersants, alkalis, dyes, heavy

metals, organic-chlorines, PBDE, PFOA,

phthalates, pigments, salts, and many more. The

release of these hazardous materials into public

drains, which lead to rivers, streams, and

eventually the ocean, alters the pH, and increases

BOD and COD levels.

According to the United Nations Environment

Programme, “worldwide, it is estimated that

industry is responsible for dumping 300–500mn

tonnes of heavy metals, solvents, toxic sludge and

other waste into waters each year.”

In high-income countries, industrial pollution is

said to be stabilising or decreasing. The

Organisation for Economic Co-operation and

Development reports that since the 1970s, high-

income countries have reduced industrial

discharges of heavy metals and other persistent

chemicals by 70 per cent to 90 per cent or more in

most instances. However, this is not the case for

economies in Africa, Asia and South and Central

America, where pollution is expected to increase

along with economic and industrial development.

Decolourisation of textile wastewater is a

common physiochemical method businesses use to

minimise waste after the dying process has occurred,

and before the water is released back into the

environment. Some of these procedures include

filtration, activated carbon, specific coagulation,

chemical flocculation, oxidization, and with the use

of light and hydrogen peroxide. Potato polyphenol

oxidase is an example of an effective decolourisation

treatment of textile wastewater for reactive dyes, it

has been found to greatly reduce the levels of organic

carbon released into the environment.

Although many organic components of textile

wastewater can be degraded and prevented from

entering our waterways, due to the synthetic

organic origin, and complex chemical structure of

many others it is impossible to completely

eliminate all pollutants created during the textile

dyeing and finishing processes. Fairly, laws and

regulations being put into effect require that

manufacturers pay much greater attention to these

processes which raise ethical concerns.

Compliance with regulations can be costly to some

firms, and in light of these, lawmakers often offer

rewards and incentives to businesses for investing

in green technologies and processes that will limit

their emission of pollutants into waterways and the

environment. However, expensive the treatment of

wastewater is, it is vital for firms to realise that the

cost of dumping untreated wastewater into our

ecological systems in incalculable. ❑

Source: Stigmare.com

Dyeing water sources

Industrial pollution can have devastating impactson river systems and lakes that are vital to humans

and wildlife

Textile dyeing and finishingmills use considerably more

water than most — as much as200 tonnes of water for every

tonne of textiles produced

Urgent and transparent action is needed to eliminate the use

and release of these hazardous chemicals into water bodies


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WINDING

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Loepfe Brothers Ltd.8623 Wetzikon/Switzerland

[email protected]

Phone +41 43 488 11 11Fax +41 43 488 11 03


Documents

Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 2 2014