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Page 1: Al-Madeenah...2019/07/25  · Madeenah. The teachers aim to correct your Tajweed starting from Surah Al-Fatiha. After your stay in Madeenah, if the correction of your surah Fatiha

AL-MADEENAH

AN-NABAWIYYA

A Muslim’s Travel Guide

to the Prophet’s City

ABSTRACT Madeenah is the peaceful

city that hosted the Prophet

Muhammad Salalahu alyhi

wasallam, giving him safety &

security. Renowned for its

many scholars & students of

knowledge from those early

days up until this day of ours,

the city is beloved to all

Muslims. This guide provides

practical advice and tips on

visiting the Prophet’s city of

knowledge and worship.

Abu Musa’b

A free e-book on:

www.IslamNelson.co.uk

Follow Us: /IslamNelson

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Madeenah – A Muslim’s Travel Guide

Electronic Edition - Version 2.00

Thursday 25th July 2019 Copyright © 2019 - IslamNelson

All Rights Reserved*

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise for business purposes without the

prior written permission of the copyright owner; *Except for one who wishes to charitably print and freely distribute this publication, “as is” - strictly without change, solely seeking the Pleasure of

Allaah.

“So whoever hopes for the Meeting with his Lord, let him work righteousness and associate none

as a partner in the worship of his Lord.”

The Noble Qur.aan - Soorah al-Kahf, Aayah 110

If you find any mistakes or outdated information please email us on

[email protected]. Relevant updates will be made and the updated versions of the

guide will then be uploaded to the internet and directed towards from @IslamNelson

Twitter handle.

All photos, unless otherwise stated, are owned by the author. All the Ahadeeth & Ayaat

translations have been taken from https://islamqa.info/en. I have made some minor

alterations to some of these translations.

Special thanks to my wife for proof reading it and advising me on some alterations.

The intention behind this travel guide is to answer some of the common questions a visitor

to the city may have. It is hoped some of the information provided would save valuable

time for the visitor whilst in the city and allow them more time to concentrate on worship.

The guide is by no means comprehensive. However I hope some of the tips would be

helpful. May Allah accept this humble effort.

Abu Musa’b

Nelson, Lancashire, UK

25th July 2019

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Contents (Click on a link below to go directly to a particular section)

1 Essential clothing to pack

2 Orientation

3 Money Exchange

4 Prayer times

5 Lessons and scholars in the Prophet’s Masjid

5.1 Obtaining the lesson timetable

6 Masjid Nabawi Library

7 Ibadah/Worship

7.1 Quran

7.2 Free Quran Tajweed classes

7.3 12 Rakaa’t

7.4 Tahajud and Duha prayers

7.5 Knowledge and lessons

7.6 Fasting

7.7 Supplications and Dua

7.8 Funeral prayer and Burials

8 Visiting Masjid Quba

8.1 Getting to Quba

9 Phones/Communication

10 Food

11 Health and Medical Facilities

12 Shopping

12.1 Jilbab/Thobe shopping

12.2 Date Shopping

12.3 Small Traders

13 Scams

13.1 Medical Bills

13.2 Lost money/Cards

13.3 Fuel

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14 Keeping your money safe

15 The Holy Quran Exhibition/Museum

16 Exhibitions

17 Mount Uhud, the Martyrs of Uhud and Masjid Qiblatein

18 King Fahad Glorious Quran Printing Complex

19 Baqi Graveyard

20 Zamzam for those leaving Saudi

21 Miscellaneous

22 Simple Hajj and Umrah Guide

Recommended Authentic Islamic Websites

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1 Essential clothing to pack

Madeenah is usually hot throughout the year and most people tend to pack the right

clothing; loose fitting thobes or Asian style Shalwar Kameeze. However, many people

visiting over the winter months such as the December break do not realise Madeenah can

also be very cold in the winter mornings. If visiting over winter, November-February, it is

advised to bring a jumper or a light jacket; ideally one with a hood (or bring a separate hat

to cover your ears).

Some decent quality sun cream would also be handy even if visiting during winter; since

Dhuhr prayer onwards tends to be bright and warm.

2 Orientation

You should soon become aware of your surroundings. Take a note of some of the main

shops and signs around your hotel so you can easily find your way back. The majority,

although not all, of the hotels are located in rows at the ‘back’ or to the right of the Masjid

(if entering from the back whilst facing the Qibla). If you are with family locate the

entrances to the Masjid for ladies and set meeting spots to meet after the prayers.

Clock

monument

on King

Fahad Road

at the

‘back’ of

the Masjid

Baqi

Graveyard

Quran Exhibition/Museum

building

Date market Green Dome of Masjid

Nabawi

Hotels

Satellite Image of the Masjid taken from Google

maps

Qibla

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3 Money Exchange

There are many authorised money exchange booths around the Masjid and they are easy to

find. The exchange rate can vary between

companies but is rarely significantly different.

4 Prayer times

You will plan your days in Madeenah around the prayer times in the Prophet’s Masjid.

There are huge electronic screens inside the Masjid, often beside the Masjid entrance

doors, which you will notice as you exit. It is useful to take a photo, using your mobile

phone, of the electronic screen showing the prayer times so you have the times handy if you

forget.

Electronic prayer timetable

in Masjid Nabawi

One of many money exchange

booths around Masjid Nabawi

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5 Lessons and scholars in the Prophet’s Masjid

Almost all the lessons are in the Arabic language. Many people will visit hoping to see and sit with some of the scholars of Madeenah. There is a timetable schedule (in Arabic) that you can obtain. This will show you which of the scholars currently have lessons in the Masjid during the current month and the times and locations within the Masjid. The timetable will save you time wondering around the Masjid trying to find particular scholars. Lesson times are after prayers on particular days and locations tend to be around certain door numbers or between the ‘Qasawatein’; which is under the main removable Umbrella area in the middle of the Masjid. Not all the scholars who teach in the Masjid will be teaching at your particular time or duration of visiting Madeenah. However there will be lessons throughout the year. The biggest issue you will face is deciding which of the lessons to attend; especially when there is a clash of times between the well-known scholars.

During busy Hajj or Ramadhan times there are also lessons in other languages such as Urdu and even one in English. There is a separate timetable for foreign language lessons that you will need to obtain.

5.1 Obtaining the lesson timetable

Enter from the back of the Masjid through door number 21 b (King Fahad Gate) and proceed straight forward for a few minutes until you take your first step into the middle section of the Masjid where the main removable umbrella area begins. Here you will find a small office, almost hidden within a large pillar (see photos below). If you can’t find it, ask any uniformed worker for the small office close by (Asalaam alykum, hal hunaka maktaba sagheera fee hadhihi muntiqah? Ureed jadwal li durros fil Masjid – is there a small office in this area, I want a timetable for lessons in the Masjid).

Entrance to the office

Sign above the office door

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Once found, knock and cautiously enter the office and ask for the lesson time table. ‘Asalaam alykum, hal indakum Jadwal li duroos fil Masjid min fadlikum?’ (Do you have a timetable for lessons in the Masjid please?).

6 Masjid Nabawi Library

On the first floor of Masjid Nabawi there is a library that is open to the public. It has thousands of Islamic books in Arabic. Students can study in this modern, spacious and comfortable environment on quality chairs and desks. When facing the Qibla the library is on the right most edge of the Masjid just inside of Al-Aqiq gate. You can take the stairs/escalators from just within the outer doors on this side of the Masjid. Ask Masjid workers in this area for the ‘Maktabah’ and they will direct you to it.

7 Ibadah/Worship

Throughout your stay in Madeenah, always keep in mind your reason for visiting; to worship and please Allah alone. As Shaykh Ibn Uthaymeen Rahimahullah used to say, nowadays few you will find, except they will say ‘What food shall we eat? What car? What this, what that’. Instead use your few short days in Madeenah wisely and take advantage of the various forms of Ibadah you now have time to carry out:

7.1 Quran

Read as much Quran as possible amidst the beautiful and calm environment of the Prophet’s Masjid. Entering and exiting the Masjid just before and after the prayer will cause you delays, especially during popular Umrah or Hajj times in the year. Instead of wasting time moving in and out of the Masjid with the crowds, aim to arrive and leave well before and after prayer times. Use this time to sit as close to the front row as possible to help maximise your reward for the prayer and use the time to pray your two Sunnah for entering the Masjid and then sit and read the Quran. Use your phone’s notes section to record the

Masjid lesson timetable

Image of the library taken

from Google Images

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page number you get to each time you stop so you can continue reading from the same place after the prayer or when you next read the Quran.

7.2 Free Quran Tajweed classes

From amongst the services offered to pilgrims by the Saudi authorities is free Quran Tajweed classes. You will find small groups, often around 10 people, sat around Quran teachers after certain prayers, beginning with Fajr. The teachers often usher people towards them to come and benefit. The teacher will have a small sign propped up near him (See photo below). This will indicate you can just sit down and join the class. I found that my teacher spoke the basics of Malay, Indonesian, Urdu, Pashtu etc to help him teach his students. However even if you do not have a common language you can easily benefit through simply copying the teacher and watching out for his instructions through sign. The teacher will inform you after which prayers he will be at the same spot.

To take maximum benefit return to his spot (ideally with the same teacher) at the times (usually after Zuhr/Asr) to continue to learn from him for the few days you will be in Madeenah. The teachers aim to correct your Tajweed starting from Surah Al-Fatiha. After your stay in Madeenah, if the correction of your surah Fatiha alone is all you take away, then this is a big achievement, alahmdulilah. Don’t be shy, just sit down and benefit from this unique opportunity. Your fellow learners will all be of various abilities, from the lowest level to the highest.

7.3 -12 Rakaa’t

Aim to read all 12 Sunnah Rak’aat of the day so that Allah may make you from those mentioned in the hadeeth: "Allaah will build a house in Heaven for whoever is diligent in observing

12 Sunnah Rak'aat (as follows): 4 Rak'aat before and 2 after the Dhuhr (Midday) Prayer, 2 after the Maghrib (Sunset Prayer), 2 after the ‘Ishaa’ (Evening) Prayer and 2 before the Fajr (Dawn) Prayer." Hadith Sahih narrated by at-Tirmidhi No. 379 and by others. Hadith No. 6183 in Sahih al-Jaami’.

7.4 Tahajud and Salaat al-Ishraaq/Duha prayers

You have the unique opportunity, away from your busy routine life at home, to offer these extra optional prayers. There is an Athaan in Madeenah for the Tahajud prayer before the Fajr prayer. Use this time to head to the Masjid and pray Tahajud up until the Fajr prayer Athaan. After that you can prayer the 2 Rakaat before the Fajr pray and use the time till the Jamaah For Dhikr or Quran.

Sign propped up on a pillar

beside a Quran teacher in

the Masjid

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After the Fajr prayer if you remain in the Masjid engaged in Ibadaah (Dhikr, Quran etc) until the time of Duha and then prayer the 2 rakaat of Salaat al-Ishraaq before you exit the Masjid then have hope that Allah includes you as one of the successful ones mentioned in this hadith who obtain the reward of having completed a complete Hajj and Umrah:

The Prophet (blessings and peace of Allah be upon him) said: “Whoever prays Fajr in congregation, then sits remembering Allah until the sun rises, then prays two rak‘ahs, will have a reward like that of Hajj and ‘Umrah, complete, complete, complete.”

Narrated by at-Tirmidhi (586), from Anas ibn Maalik (may Allah be pleased with him).

7.5 Knowledge and lessons

Benefit yourself by attending the lessons of the well-known scholars of the Sunnah in the Prophet’s Masjid. In addition you could bring into the Masjid some of your books in your own language to read, study or memorise. When the majority of the people have left the Masjid, outside of prayer time, find a peaceful spot within the Masjid and sit and benefit yourself. Wearing a Shimagh (Arab headdress/scarf) whilst studying or worshipping in solitary means few will recognise you. Many brothers find this anonymity helps in avoiding Riyaa (showing off).

7.6 Fasting

Many people, especially the thousands of Madeenah University students will fast Mondays, Thursdays and the Ayaam al beed - the 3 white days in the middle of the Islamic month. Aim to follow the Sunnah by fasting these days whilst in the city and Masjid of the Prophet Salalahu alyhi wasallam; the one who taught us these Sunnan. On these days, towards the front right of the Masjid, around King Saud gate and also between the Qaswatein you will find many of the Madeenah University students (as well as local residents) gathered before Maghrib. Shortly before the Athaan brothers will start laying out a Sufrah (eating spread). Alhamdulilah, there is usually enough basic food (usually dates, zamzam, coffee, bread and yogurt) to give you enough energy to remain in the Masjid till Isha (or a lesson you may want to attend after Isha) before leaving to eat a bigger meal after that.

A scholar’s chair in the

Masjid

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The atmosphere in this area of the Masjid with the many practicing people around you tends to be calm, spiritually uplifting and peaceful. Most people around you, especially in this area of the Masjid (which is also the area near the chairs from which Shaykh Abdul Muhsin al-Abaad and Shaykh Ali Nasir al Faqeehi teach) will be engaged in reading the Quran, studying their books or simply quietly sitting in Dhikr.

7.7 Supplications and Dua

Make dua, even if it is to ask Allah to fix your shoelace. It was narrated that ‘Aa’ishah (may Allaah

be pleased with her) said: Ask Allaah for everything, even shoelaces, because if Allaah does not make it easy for you to obtain it you will not obtain it.”

Narrated by Abu Ya’la (8/44) and Ibn al-Sunni in ‘Aml al-Yawm wa’l-Laylah (349). It was also narrated by al-Bayhaqi in Shu’ab al-Eemaan (2/42) with a different isnaad.

It says in Majma’ al-Zawaa’id (10/150): its men are the men of saheeh.

Al-Albaani said in al-Silsilah al-Da’eefah (1363): This is a jayyid mawqoof isnaad whose men are all thiqaat (trustworthy) and are the men of Muslim, End quote.

Don’t forget to make Dua for all the Muslims:

“So know (O Muhammad – peace and blessings of Allah be upon him) that La ilaha ill-Allah (none has the right to be worshipped but Allah), and ask forgiveness for your sin, and also for (the sin of) believing men and believing women.”

[Muhammad 47:19].

Don’t forget to make your morning and evening Athkaar. Use your ‘fortress of the Muslim’ dua book which contains authentic supplications. With the aid of this pocket sized book you could be in near constant remembrance of Allah. There is a Dua for waking in the morning, entering the bathroom, exiting the bathroom, after Wudu, leaving your residence, walking to the Masjid. Dua to say with the Athaan, after the Athaan, entering the Masjid, exiting the Masjid, entering the market place, before eating, after eating, before sleeping, and many others before various daily activities.

7.8 Funeral prayer and Burials

After almost every congregational prayer in the Masjid there is a funeral prayer. After the prayer an announcement will be made, in Arabic, stating whether the deceased is male,

A Sufrah laid out in

the Masjid

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female, child or multiple bodies with a mixture of genders so that you can alter you supplication in the prayer accordingly. Immediately after the funeral prayer, the body or bodies will be rushed to the Baqi graveyard which is adjacent to the left (if facing the Qibla) of Masjid Nabawi. In accordance to the Sunnah the bodies will be rushed there, literally. If you would like to take part in the burial you will need to pray towards the front of the Masjid close to an exit, so that you can leave quickly after the prayer to join the procession to the graveyard. See diagram below for the route the bodies take to the grave yard.

1) The bodies will exit through a door here 2) The route the bodies will take across the Masjid courtyard 3) Entrance to Baqi

The door at the front of the Masjid through which the bodies leave for burial

Green dome of the Masjid

3 - Entrance to Baqi

Baqi graveyard

1 - Door

2

Diagram taken from

Google. Please note

this is a projection of

the future expansion

of the Masjid.

However the labelled

areas and general

plan of the Masjid is

relevant and

accurate.

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Although you may be eager to help carry the bodies to the graveyard, do not forget the relatives of the deceased will want to be at the forefront of this noble action so be sensitive to this and do not push or shove. The reward for taking part in the burial is stated in the following hadith: Al-Bukhaari (1325) and Muslim (945) narrated that Abu Hurayrah (may Allaah be pleased with him) said: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) said: “Whoever attends the funeral until the prayer has been offered will have one qiraat (of reward) and whoever attends until the deceased has been buried will have two qiraats.” It was said, “What are the two qiraats?” He said: “Like two great mountains.” A qiraat is a large amount of reward, which the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) likened to the mountain of Uhud. Alternating between the above (and more) forms of worship you can InshaaAllah plan to spend all your short days in Madeenah in near constant worship inshaaAllah. When eating, eat with the intention to regain your strength so that you can continue to worship Allah so that your eating itself is an act of worship and becomes rewardable with the permission of Allah. When sleeping, sleep early after Isha according to the Sunnah. Also have the intention that you are sleeping so you can rest and have another productive day of worship. Praying your Isha and Fajr in Jama’ah will also allow you to benefit from your sleep as though you have spent your night in worship: According to a report narrated by Abu Dawood (555) and al-Tirmidhi (221): “Whoever prays ‘Isha’ in congregation, it is as if he spent half the night in prayer, and whoever prays ‘Isha’ and Fajr in congregation, it is as if he spent the (whole) night in prayer.” 8 Visiting Masjid Quba

Another great act of worship, which the Prophet salalahu alyhi wasallam performed regularly, is visiting Masjid Quba in Madeenah. Making Wudu from your residence and then setting out to Masjid Quba to pray two units of prayer within it is commensurate in reward to having performed Umra.

Hadith: Al-Nasaa’i (699) narrated that Sahl ibn Hunayf said: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) said: “Whoever goes out to this mosque, the mosque of Quba’, and prays therein, will have (a reward) like that of ‘Umrah.” Classed as Saheeh by al-Albaani in Saheeh al-Nasaa’i.

Outside Masjid Quba you will find local elders often with their grandchildren selling Miswak. Buying your miswak from them will benefit these bread winners. Chatting to them you will find them kind hearted and warm. Remember, even smiling at your fellow believers is an act of worship and charity. Bringing sweets from your country and offering them to such children will be greatly received.

8.1 Getting to Quba

Taxi (15 Riyal each way): If you have family with you, the easiest way to get to Quba is to take a taxi from any major road around the Masjid perimeter. The approximate cost for a standard 5-seater taxi is 15 Riyal each way.

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Public shared Mini Van (2 Riyal each person each way): If you are travelling single or even as a small group you have the option of taking a public shared Mini Van from the main road outside the outer courtyard gate 6 (which is located, if facing the Qibla, at the front right most corner of the Masjid). Leave through this gate and proceed straight forward to the main road. There are Mini Vans leaving to Masjid Quba throughout the day and evening, especially after congregational prayers. The driver will often shout out, ‘Quba! Quba! Quba!’ Or simply ask the driver ‘Quba???’ and jump in! The price is just 2 Riyal which is usually passed to the driver mid journey if one of the passengers takes charge and collects on behalf of the driver or once you reach Masjid Quba. The standard Mini Vans seat 15 people. If you are able to afford it why not pay the full 30 Riyal on behalf of all the passengers; it is a good opportunity for Sadaqah and being good to your fellow believers. Don’t forget to keep your intention sincere, for the sake of Allah alone and specifically that you intend to help your fellow believers carry out the noble action of prayer in Masjid Quba. The most beloved of people to Allah are those who are most beneficial to others.

“……….The most beloved of people to Allah, may He be exalted, is the one who is the most beneficial to people, and the most beloved of deeds to Allah, may He be exalted, is happiness that you bring to a Muslim, or relieving him of distress, or paying off debt for him, or dispelling his hunger. And to walk with a brother to meet his needs is more beloved to me than observing i‘tikaaf in this mosque – meaning the mosque of Madinah – for a month.”

Narrated by at-Tabaraani (12/453); classed as saheeh by al-Albaani in Saheeh at-Targheeb (955).

9 Phones/Communication

Smartphones are increasingly a huge distraction for us and often a cause of time wasting. Why not keep your UK sim card, so you only use it when important or essential, rather than obtaining a local sim?

If you have family with you and you need to remain in contact, there are various local sim card options with various prices. Some sim cards are more suited to calling abroad and

Outer Gate 6

Minivan waiting to take passengers to

Masjid Quba from the main road

further out from Gate 6

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keeping in contact with family back home and others are more suited for internal use within Saudi Arabia.

There are numerous telecommunication company offices located next to each other at King Fahad Road entrance at the back of the Prophet’s Masjid. You will also find individual traders stood outside these shops trying to sell you sim cards.

The following prices were determined by the author in December 2015: Sims are typically 30 Riyal each. 4 minutes of calling will cost you 1 Riyal. If calling Britain ‘Mobily’ company is good and costs 1 riyal a min whereas the other local sims cost 2.5 Riyal a minute to Britain. The individual vendors stood outside the shops will put the sim card into your phone for you; just ask them. The cheapest way to keep in contact with family back home is via free internet/wifi access at your hotel. Just ask for the password at the reception or from the hotel security guard.

10 Food

There are many options for eating. With the diversity of the city’s residents and visitors you can find food of every variety from around the globe. In the small malls situated beneath

Telecommunication company offices outside King Fahad gate

entrance

Details on Data Packages

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the major hotels at the back of the Masjid you will find many western fast food outlets selling burgers, fried chicken, pizzas etc.

The costs of these foods tends to be comparable to western prices. You may also not be satisfied with the quality, especially during busy periods. A much cheaper (and in the authors opinion, tastier) option are the Pakistani/Bangladeshi eateries. There are a couple located further down the King Fahad Road exit at the back of the Masjid (from Door 21). These are approximately 7 minutes’ walk away from the Masjid. To get there leave the Masjid from the back where you will see the clock monument in the photo below. Carry on walking, crossing some roads, for approximately 7 minutes (perhaps around 400/500 metres). You will pass a small fire station on your right. The eateries will be further ahead on your right. Once in the area ask any (Pakistani/Asian visitors) for the Pakistani hotels. In Pakistani languages eateries are referred to as ‘hotels’, pronounced without the ‘h’ as ‘Pakistani otel’ or ‘otal’.

The appearance of the eateries will not be of a high standard, however the food, as experienced by the author daily at various times over a week, is safe to eat. Prices are on the wall in Urdu and Arabic. You pay at the counter telling the cashier what you want. He will give you a small slip of paper with your food written in Urdu. Take this to the food counter, verbally repeating, what you have ordered to the person at the food counter as you pass them the slip. They will then give you your food. Let them know if you want it packed to take away or if you want to eat in the eatery. Your chapattis (called ‘rotee’ in Pakistani languages) will come free with any curry dish you order. You may have to collect the chapattis separately from the chapatti corner.

Clock monument outside the King Fahad Gate exit

and King Fahad Road at the back of Masjid Nabawi

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The best food is often from eateries further away from the Masjid where locals will go to eat; accessible by taxi. Be cautious not to waste more time than necessary looking for the best foods. Remember your intention to visit Madeenah is worship and you only have a few short days.

11 Health and Medical Facilities

You will find various pharmacies located around the Masjid from where you can purchase basic medicines for ailments such as colds and stomach upsets. It is a good idea to bring some pain killers from your home country, such as Paracetamol tablets, as well as some Imodium tablets (to settle an upset stomach).

There are however free of charge medical clinics for all visitors. These are completely free of charge and will deal with anything as minor as throat infection to more major injuries. The service is quick to access on a walk-in basis. The main one is at the front of the Masjid at gate 5. The entrance to the clinic is directly opposite the exit of the Quran Museum at the outer boundary of the Masjid court yard.

Abu Muhammad al-Bukhari Pakistani eatery

further down King Fahad Road Menu & prices in Urdu and Arabic

Traditional Chana Puri Pakistani

breakfast in Madeenah Chappatis/Roti

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Once you enter, they will require you to fill in a form identifying yourself and your nationality. It’s a good idea to have a photocopy of your passport photo/details page handy at all times.

You will then be seen by a Doctor, usually within 5-10 mins only. Most Doctors and nurses will be able to speak basic English. Any major injuries such as badly broken limbs that require metal implants, those requiring heart procedures or intensive care will be transferred to specialist units in a major hospital. The care and expertise provided for major treatments is comparable to western standards. They have all the latest state of the art equipment such as fully equipped intensive care beds. Even a few days spent in these hospitals would ordinarily add to thousands of pounds worth of hospital bills; however pilgrims are entitled to completely free health care throughout their stay in Makkah and Madeenah.

If you require medication, you will be given a prescription for their in house clinic pharmacy. All medication is provided free of charge, however there can be a longer wait for the pharmacy compared to seeing the Doctor. There are assistants at every corner of the clinic who will direct you through the whole process as you walk in.

Pilgrims requiring a wheel chair can often get one from their hotel to use for free so it’s a good idea to ask at the hotel reception. Alternatively there is an official wheel chair booth in the middle of the courtyard at the back of the Masjid (around gate 26) from where wheel chairs can be hired.

12 Shopping

When shopping you will see the same, mostly foreign made, goods and souvenirs in every other shop. Whether it’s Turkish prayer mats, Indian made bags and scarfs or Chinese made toys, the prices are effectively the same irrespective of the shop you go to. Haggling is the way here so you will need to negotiate the price down from what the shop keeper first quotes you. They will usually inflate the real price by at least 5 or 10 Riyals on most items. If they consider you to be wealthy they tend to inflate the price even further. Shop keepers will judge you within moments by the language you speak, quality of your shoes or generally how well-groomed you appear! When genuinely interested in an item simply ask for their ‘last price’. If it’s a more expensive item you require, it’s worth enquiring on the quality and

Al Safiah Health Care

Centre on the courtyard

boundary of the Masjid

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price at 2 or 3 shops before deciding which to buy from. Since most shops selling general goods sell the same items, simply choose a shop keeper who appears to be honest and well mannered. Once you have built up a rapport they will usually give you their ‘last price’ on whatever item you require from their shop upon first request.

12.1 Jilbab/Thobe shopping

A few blocks further out from the front of Masjid Nabawi is a mall that specialises in Jilbabs. Shop after shop will sell every possible type of Jilabab. Due to the competition here, this may be where you could pick up more of a bargain as well as the exact size you require. To get here you will need to head out from the front of the Masjid from the side of Baqi grave yard; keeping Baqi to your immediate left. Once you have headed a few blocks out you will

Prayer mat and matching bag

Children’s ready-made

clothing

Headwear

Adult’s ready-made thobes & jilbabs Boy’s ready-made thobe &

waistcoat

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reach a major ring road (King Faisel Road). You will need to cross this and the Jilbab mall is on the other side of the road. It is within the vicinity of Masjid Bilal ibn Rabah.

It’s possible to have tailor made thobes made, however the tailors that locals use tend to be further out away from the haram. You will need to catch a Taxi out to these. Perhaps ask the Taxi driver to take you to the nearest one he knows. There is a famous tailor located near Madeenah University that many of the University students use.

You will need to head out to the tailors within the first couple of days of your stay so that they can measure you up, and you have time to choose your cloth, colour, style etc. You will then need to give them a few days to get your thobe ready a couple of days before you leave. Always leave at least a day spare in case there is a delay in the production.

Madeenah is a good place to buy Ihrams from. They tend to vary in prices according to quality. It’s cheaper to buy from here than your local Islamic clothing shop back home. They also make a great gift for someone who has not been on Umrah before and doesn’t have an ihram yet. The ihram in the image below is imported with from the UAE. It is good quality and can be haggled down to 70 or 65 Riyal.

A shop in the Jilbab mall

One of many Jilbabs for

sale at the mall

Ihram for sale in a Madeenah shop

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12.2 Date Shopping

No one leaves Madeenah without buying the world famous Madeenah dates. Dates is a HUGE lucrative business in Madeenah and EVERYONE seems to be dealing in them. Eager dealers will do anything to secure your custom. They will hang out around hotels and listen out for pilgrims’ mere mention of Dates/Tamar/Kajoor and their ears suddenly prick up. Each will promise you the best dates in Madeenah! They may even have prearranged a deal to get exclusive access to you through your tour operator. Dealers will approach you online before you even get to Madeenah if they come across you mentioning Umrah/Hajj on social media for example. They will all claim to have just what you are looking for, they will leave you their phone number, offer to bring them to your hotel etc etc. In the end you will need to choose someone you feel happy to deal with. Do not be pushed into any sales. Take your time, choose what you like and then negotiate a fair price once you have checked around a number of sellers and got a feel for prices.

More than taking someone’s word for how fresh their dates are or whether they have just arrived from the farms, judge for yourself on the quality of what you are purchasing.

Madeenah has many varieties of dates from Anbar, Sukari, Safaawi to the most sought after Madeenah Ajwa. It can become rather confusing how much one should pay for Ajwa. Although far from being an expert on dates, the author was able to ascertain that Ajwa seem to come in 3 main varieties. The better variety, the bigger and fresher looking Ajwa, seemed to sell for around 45 Riyals a Kilo (in December 2015). Smaller but still fresh Ajwa tend to be around 30/35 Riyal a Kilo. The lower quality, less fresher looking Ajwa sells for around 20 Riyal a Kilo. This is a very rough price guide that the reader may use as a basis, however prices can vary depending on the quality of any particular batch.

Be vary of those traders that will keep the fresher looking dates at the top of their boxes and hide the poorer quality, drier dates at the bottom. Don’t be shy to have a feel round and feel free to check the quality of dates under the top layer. Traders will sometimes also ‘freshen up’ the dates by spraying them with water using a hand spray.

A modest size date market is a stone throw away from the Masjid. It can be accessed by exiting from gate 6 and crossing the main road in a north easterly direction. Ask for the ‘souk at-tamar’ if you don’t see it straight away.

Random traders will also sell from the back of their vehicles or from the side of major pilgrim walking routes between the Masjid and hotels. You may well find a fresh, good quality batch of dates from anywhere. There is no particular one-stop must go place to get your dates from.

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12.3 Smaller Traders

You will find small traders selling anything from scarfs to fruit from carts or make-shift stalls around the Masjid. The foreign traders, often women, tend to be the louder and more assertive for custom. Local traders, often elderly Saudi men tend to be less in your face but would welcome your custom. Contrary to popular belief many Saudis have a very humble income such as selling fruit from a roadside cart or as a driver and often find it difficult to compete with low cost foreign workers. Many work as hard as foreign workers, standing in the heat all day to sell their wares.

A small date market is located

further up behind this building once

you exit outer gate 6

Small Trader by his stall Stall table left out overnight

One of many date shops in

Madeenah

A bewildering array of Madeenah

date varieties

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13 Scams

Despite being in the blessed city of Madeenah a tiny minority of people will always try to

extract money from you. If you wish to donate charity money it is best to stick to donating

at the official charity (Khariyyah) booths. These (as in the image below) can be found within

the front (the side of the green dome) and at the back of the Masjid courtyard. This money

will be used to help educate children in the city’s Quran memorisation classes. This is a

good avenue for those hoping for Sadaqah Jariyyah (continuous charity).

People may approach you hoping to take advantage of the high spirituality and goodwill of pilgrims.

Some of the well-known scams are:

13.1 Medical Bills

As you are sat quietly a person will approach you, often from your own ethnic origin, and claim that they and their family were involved in a car accident on their way to Makkah/Madeenah in which a family member was seriously injured. They may even show you medical receipts and claim they need cash for the medical bills. The person speaking to you may outwardly appear to be religious. It is best to inform them that all medical facilities for pilgrims is free and if they have any issues they should approach the official charity booths/authorities.

13.2 Lost money/Cards

Again often from the same ethnic origin as yourself someone will approach you saying they have just arrived in the city and that their money or bank cards have been lost or stolen and they are desperately in need of cash to feed their children for the day until the banks are able to reissue their cards for the next day. Again direct them towards the authorities or ask them to seek help at their hotel reception or you could ask them to eat with you.

13.3 Fuel

Someone will approach you in a high spec car and get your attention through their car window. The well-dressed driver will claim they have lost their money/card and that they only need money to refuel their car. This particular scam often occurs just as you exit Masaajid such as Masjid Quba or Masjid Qiblatein often by night fall. They may even have their family with them in the car hoping to add to their pseudo genuine credentials.

Official Charity booth

within the Masjid courtyard

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14 Keeping your money safe

It is always best to keep your money and valuables close to you and not keep all your money in one place. Be especially vigilant whilst doing wudu in the public Masjid Wudu areas. People have been known to take off their money bags and place them to a side for a few moments whilst doing wudu only for it to be gone when they next look up.

Other than these petty opportunists, Madeenah/Makkah is very safe and Saudi in general is one of the safest countries in the world, alhamdulillah. It is very safe to walk around during the day or night. Muggings, violence or open robberies are virtually unheard off.

15 The Holy Quran Exhibition/Museum

Just outside the outer walls of the front courtyard of the Masjid (Outer court yard gate 5) there is a Quran Museum which is free to visit. It is very well designed and modern with audio and visual booths. The best part of the museum is a collection of beautiful hand written Qurans from various parts of the Arab, Asian and African lands. Many from the collection of Qurans are many hundreds of years old. It is definitely well worth the visit.

The holy Quran Exhibition as seen from within the Masjid courtyard Outer Gate 5

Entrance to the Exhibition Inside the Exhibition

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16 Exhibitions

Depending on the time of the year you may see signs for Islamic exhibitions being held in buildings around the outer courtyards of the Masjid. The Beautiful names of Allah exhibition (opposite Al-Aqiq gate) is well recommended.

17 Mount Uhud, the Martyrs of Uhud and Masjid Qiblatein

The mount of Uhud which was beloved to the Prophet Salallahu alyhi wasalaam and the site of the famous Battle of Uhud is worth a visit. This is where the martyrs of Uhud are buried including Hamza alihisalaam, the uncle of the Prophet Salallahu alyhi wasalaam. Some pilgrims also tend to visit Masjid Qiblatein.

18 King Fahad Glorious Quran Printing Complex

The author did not visit this. You will have to conduct your own research to ascertain whether it is still open to the public. Previous visitors have been given a guided tour around this sprawling complex that has printed and freely distributed approximately a 1/5th of the world’s millions of existing Qurans. At the end of the tour visitors are gifted a copy of the Quran from the complex.

19 Baqi Graveyard

A lot of people will queue up to visit Baqi graveyard which is on the left most side of the Masjid Courtyard when facing the Qibla. Due to some people who make this a place of worship the authorities do try to restrict the opening times. Some of the Sahaaba Radi Allahuanhum are buried here but their exact locations are not confirmed. The graves believed by some to contain Sahaaba have to be manned by guards, often Madeenah University students. Some people will attempt all manners of innovation at Baqi and some will try to draw the guards into argumentation. During any such argumentation just standing by, even for a few moments, to show support even with an approving nod or thanking the guards for supporting the Sunnah and carrying out their job would be appreciated by them. As stated earlier the best time for men to visit the graveyard is just after the Fard prayer whilst accompanying a funeral procession.

Audio/visual display in the

exhibition

A 950 years old hand written

Quran

History of the Quran Hall in

the Exhibition/Museum

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20 Zamzam for those leaving Saudi

At the time of writing the rules state that each pilgrim is allowed to take only 1 pre packed container (5 litres) of Zamzam. These can be purchased from just outside Jeddah airport for approximately 9 Riyals. Some hotels will also sell these containers from the hotels. If you require more Zamzam the only other way is to purchase a solid plastic container, fill it with Zamzam yourself and then have it plastic wrapped/sealed; a service that your hotel reception should be able to provide. You then have to pack this extra Zamzam in its sealed plastic wrap within your suitcase.

21 Miscellaneous

Due to the plethora of shoe racks in the Masjid it may be worth noting the number of the particular rack you place your shoes on in your phone’s notes section. Each rack is numbered. If you have particularly expensive footwear you may want to place the right and left sandal in two areas close to each other in case someone is tempted to take your nice looking footwear! There are plastic bags provided for those wishing to put their shoes in them. With the tens of thousands of pilgrims using a new plastic bag at least 5 times a day only to bin it after a single use why not reduce your own carbon foot print by folding and placing the small bag in your pocket after use until the next prayer.

Some people will approach you begging for money. To discourage this practice it is better to donate to official charities who set up small booths in shopping malls around the Masjid. Another idea for Sadaqah may be giving some extra tips to the many unskilled workers. From hotel cleaners to workers at basic eateries most of these bread winners will be supporting many from their families and extended families back in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. Any extra money they receive from you will be greatly received.

22 Simple Hajj and Umrah Guide

For those looking for an authentic easy to follow guide on how to perform Hajj and Umrah according to the Sunnah please refer to: http://fatwa-online.com/simple-hajj-umrah-guide-smartphone/

This can be downloaded to your smartphone for easy access.

Finally I hope you have a safe and successful trip.

Baqi Graveyard with the

Masjid seen in the background

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Recommended Authentic Islamic Websites

www.fatwa-online.com

www.Madeenah.com

www.SalafiEventsUK.com