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As most tourist brochures and handbooks will tell you, the main boulevard Avenyn is the heart of Gothenburg. On this majestic boulevard you will find most of the city´s famous landmarks

such as the grand statue of Poseidon, the city theatre and the art museum. But to provide a city like Gothenburg with enough fresh and creative blood it takes more than just one big heart. If you look beyond the high street and start exploring the city you will find hundreds of small, pulsating muscles bursting with creativity and energy. Use this guide as an inspiration to find your way around the other side of Gothenburg and to explore the attractions that you don´t find on the postcards.

Where to go for artThe Gothenburg indie art scene is absolutely bril­liant. Alternative galleries such as Oro, Skup Palet and Röda Sten are run by genuine enthusiasts and artists themselves which makes them refreshingly unpretentious. Here silence has been replaced by music and black turtle neck sweaters by neon coloured T­shirts.

röda Sten Röda Sten, www.rodasten.comThe most prominent of the off centre galleries. In a three storey concrete cube just a stone´s throw from the sea you will find installations, paintings, video art and all kinds of interesting performances from Swedish as well as international artists. At weekend nights the first floor is transformed into one of the city’s best night clubs.

oro Karl Johansgatan 146, www.orosmoment.comGalleri Oro is one of the most interesting venues for alternative, contemporary art in the city. The legen­dary parties thrown here are almost as popular as the exhibitions. The industrial setting ads to the underground image.

Nordhems Konst Nordhemsgatan 22, www.nordhemskonst.comAt Nordhems Konst you are just as likely to see an original Warhol as the work of an almost completely unknown but up­and­coming painter or artist. If you have any questions about art in Gothenburg, just ask owner Magnus Winström and he´ll be glad to tell you what´s worth seeing at the moment.

fresh fish gallery Stampgatan 8, www.freshfish.seAs the name suggests the Fresh Fish Gallery focus on new talents. Lately their exhibitions have been quite extraordinary and it seems likely that this little fish might grow and become an important player in the Gothenburg art pond. The opening parties are always good fun with lots of beautiful people sipping red wine.

Skup Palet, hey it´s enrico PalazzoBanehagsgatan 1p, www.skuppalet.orgA very arty venue that houses everything from art exhibitions to concerts and surrealistic parties. An essential spot for anyone who thinks that Brooklyn is too far away.

Your guide to the alterNative gotheNburg

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Where to go for driNKiNg aNd clubbiNgIf you love happy house music and dance floor megahits you´ll find clubbing Mecca on Avenyn. Clubs like Push, Peacock and Park Lane are extre­mely popular among party animals from all over Gothenburg. Techno connoisseurs, indie kids and underground romantics on the other hand, dwell at other places.

Styrbord babord Kungstorget 1, www.styrbordbabord.seThe party boat known as Styrbord Babord or simply “The Boat” is home to some of the most skilful DJ:s in Gothenburg. The bartenders are always busy and the dance floor always crowded.

Yaki-da Storgatan 47, www.yaki-da.seUntil recently this used to be a mainstream club, with only the remarkable number of floors to distinguish it from other establishments around the Aveny . But in the end of 2010 something happened. The name changed and so did the entire concept as the owners started booking much more interesting DJ:s and artists. Thanks to this the club has gained popularity with a wide span of club goers and is nowadays one

of the hippest clubs around. And if you fancy an es­presso in the early morning hours you will find hea­ven in the little “coffee and avec bar”. Pure genious!

Pustervik Järntorgsgatan 12, www.pusterviksbaren.seThe headquarter of the Gothenburg pop scene. All bands worth listening to have played here. The table tennis club on Mondays is especially worth a visit.

Kino Linnégatan 21Extremely popular little bar in Linné. This is where the young and the beautiful spend their evenings. Also known for a good and affordable vegetarian menu.

PublikAndra Långgatan 20Andra Långgatan is a street virtually filled with bars but Publik is the very best. The beer garden in the patio is the ultimate summertime waterhole to a vast clientele of artists, hipsters and regular beer lovers.

Kontiki Storängsgatan 2, www.kontiki.nuThe south pacific style interior and the fact that almost the entire place is made of bamboo makes Kontiki one of the most unique bars in Gothenburg. They house strange, alternative clubs most nights of the week and is certainly worth the tram ride.

Nefertiti Hvitfeldtsplatsen, www.nefertiti.seOn Friday nights this sober jazz club turns into a temple for techno lovers. This is where you´re most likely to find international DJ:s from all the im­portant labels behind the record players.

Jazzhuset Erik Dahlbergsgatan 3, www.jazzhuset.seThe original indie club. This is where all the bands play their first gigs and where every new generation of indie poppers, twee kids and shoe gazers first see the light of day. Or night, as it may be. This is where you go if your hair is black, your jeans are tight and your t­shirt´s striped. Especially well worth a visit on thursday nights.

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Where to go for coffeeThe Swedes are infamous coffee drinkers. This used to mean that we drank huge amounts of black, ame­ricano style beverages. But for the last couple of years the café culture, inspired by Italian espresso bars, has flourished and nowadays you can ask for a mezzo or a scuro at almost any street corner without getting suspicious looks.

bar centro Kyrkogatan 31The mother of all espresso bars. Simply the best cappuccino in town.

bar italiaPrinsgatan 7Known for the friendly staff, the delicious Italian specialities and for the arty clientele; you can´t throw a stone in here without hitting a local pop star.

da Matteo torrefazione Vallgatan 5It´s always sunny at the crossing of Vallgatan and Magasinsgatan. Good thing someone thought of opening a café here. The pesto pizza can cure any hangover, however bad.

truckstop alaska Karlavagnsgatan 13, www.truckstopalaska.comAn underground rock bar in the heart of theformer industrial districts of Hisingen. This is as close to Kreuzberg it gets without actually being in Berlin. You will need to get a membership online but it is well worth a little extra hassle. Promise.

Mitt andra hem Andra långgatan 31, www.mittandrahem.comWith a name that translates “my second home” this little bohemian bar in the trashy/chic Andra lång­gatan district has a lot to live up to. And they do. The atmosphere is always friendly and welcoming and the performing artists, musicians or stand up come­dians always...interesting.

Sinnet Gamla Varvsgatan 1, www.lokalsinnet.seFeeling indie? Head to underground venue Sinnet. Located in a semi­hidden alley next to the Maritime Museum & Aquarium it´s kind of trycky to find but well worth the effort even though you have to be­come a member online to be sure to get in (at night). During day time it is free for anyone to visit the café/shop/art gallery.

utmarken Lyckholms fabriker, www.myspace.com/utmarkenFor years the abandoned brewery just south of the city centre has been a safe haven for artists and musicians. The concerts that are randomly held here are often very interesting and avant­garde. Or just old fashioned fun. There are also some other inte­resting things to see in the area, such as the micro brewery Ocean.

Puta Madre Magasinsgatan 3, www.putamadre.seProbably the most extraordinary bar in Gothenburg. The decoration was inspired by a brothel in Tijuana that was owned by a relative to the restaurant keeper in the early 1900´s. Believe it or not: it´s a really nice place for a drink or two.

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Where to go for ShoPPiNgThanks to a long and strong tradition of textile indu­stry, Gothenburg has a very vital fashion and design culture. The design academies in Gothenburg and neighbour city Borås also supports the market with lots of fresh, new talents every year.

Nudie Vallgatan 15, www.nudiejeans.comIn 2001 Gothenburg designer Maria Erixon Levin left her job at Lee and started her own brand Nudie Jeans. Ten years later it seems to have been a wise decision. Today Nudie jeans are sold all around the world and the brand has become popular not only for the design but also for the company´s etics when it comes to the environment and fair trade. Visit the shop on Vallgatan.

Miss ragtime Magasinsgatan 15, www.missragtime.seDo you love second hand clothes but hate having to go through piles of old rags to find the good stuff? At Miss Ragtime the staff has done all the sorting for you. In the two shops on Magasinsgatan you will find only the best selection of second hand and vin­tage clothes and shoes.

grandpa Vallgatan 3, www.grandpa.seAt grandpa you will find designer clothes, vintage furniture, pens, notebooks, games, movies, cups, posters, maps and lots of other essential stuff. All very carefully selected and tasteful.

bengans café StigbergstorgetBengans record store has been an institution in the cultural life of Gothenburg for ages. In recent years they have broaden the business to include a nice little café where you can sit and gaze upon the life outside at the Stigbergstorget Square. A very good pastime.

café Marmelad Mariagatan 17Award winning Café Marmelad is located in the most picturesque part of Majorna ­Mariaplan. A stroll in this part of town is essential to anyone who wants to get to know the real Gothenburg.

café berlinVasagatan 46, www.cafeberlin.seCafé Berlin opened in september 2010 and has quickly become home to a (very) young but arty crowd. This is where you go to drink black coffee and discuss The Cure Lyrics. Or whatever the kids listen to these days.

doppio Linnégatan 7A classic espresso bar loved for the great coffee, the outstanding service and, of course, the great location. The window seats are great if you enjoy looking at passer byers while pretending to read a newspaper. And who doesn´t?

Santo domingoAndra Långgatan 4This charming café along the chic and bohemian Andra Långgatan shares premises with a record store selling used LPs and CDs. Enjoy your cup of coffee with a sourdough bun, all organic as well as fair trade coffee. Artists perform on Fridays. Just opposite at number 5 is the Two Little Birds café with an old time feel and its own handicrafts gallery.

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emma och Malena Vallgatan 4, www.emmamalena.comIn this lovely little design boutique you will find some real gems and unique jewellry and garment. The style can best be described as timeless and marine.

velour Tredje Långgatan 13c, Magasinsgatan 19, www.velour.seGothenburg brand Velour make preppy clothes in­spired by the west coast and Gothenburg´s working class heritage. To see what it looks like visit the shop on Magasinsgatan or the “irregular store”/outlet on Tredje Långgatan.

acne Magasinsgatan 19, www.acne.seSwedish brand Acne has taken the world by storm. Their stylish, yet inventive, take on scandinavian design has largely contributed to what has become known as “the Swedish fashion miracle”. The shop at Magasinsgatan is definitely worth a visit.

beyond retro Södra Hamngatan 37-41, www.beyondretro.com50´s­style dresses, jackets from the 80´s and loads and loads of denim shirts and other retro favourites. This is a vintage goldmine.

emmaus björkå Linnégatan 9, www.emmausbjorka.seAnother place to visit if you´re a second hand maniac. The selection is sort of uneven but if you´re lucky you can find some real treasures here.

WeekdaySödra Larmgatan 12, Kungsgatan 46, www.weekday.comWeekday is a very popular chain of trendy, yet cheap, shops. The clientele (and the staff) can best be described as hipsters. Here you´ll find jeans, shoes, t­shirts, sun glasses and all the stuff you need to accessorise your urban lifestyle.

Sveagatan Sveagatan 20, www.sveagatan.comDesigners O’Ella, Tanja Malo and Dreamandawake open their office, workshop and gallery to the public every weekend (and some weekdays). Dresses, jewellery and beautiful things –all very unique and limited editions.

Karltex Haga Nygatan 27, www.karltex.seBen Sherman, Clarks, Fjällräven, Adidas, Paul Smith, Converse. The two Karltex shops in the picturesque Haga district are packed with nice street wear from a wide range of brands. Also a very good place to go if you´re a sneaker enthusiast.

uniforms for the dedicated www.uniformsforthededicated.comA very fresh and up­and­coming brand from Goth­enburg that makes everything from clothes to music. Their collections can be bought at Fever (Karl Gus­tavsgatan 15) but it is also a good idea to check out the website for fashion related parties and events.

Swap-o-rama, different venuesswaporama.wordpress.comSwap­o­Rama is a unique concept where the de­sign collective Bittra Britta arranges cloth swapping nights at different clubs. Second hand lovers virtu­ally flock to these high tempo events where you can get a whole new wardrobe for free.