An e Calc Plus Metric Light

8/13/2019 An e Calc Plus Metric Light

1/12

ANECALCPLUSHelp GuideANECALCPLUS is a tool developed to assist in estimating theamount of thread consumedin a sewn product. This informationcan then be used to calculate the Thread Cost per Garment andhe estimated number of conesyou will need for a quantity of

sewn products you are planning on producing. It can also be usedo calculate the number of cones required for line coverage for

small production lots.

You do not need to have any special software on your computerbecauseANECALCwas developed using Microsoft Excelspreadsheets.

MostANECALCPLUSworkbooks have sheets or Tabs at thebottom that are used for the following:- INSTRUCTIONStab on how to use the program.- WORKSHEETtab where you enter data to estimate the thread

consumption, including a waste factor. This tab is also where youinput thread price to automatically calculate the estimated costper garment; and an input for the number of units to be producedthat allowsANECALCPLUS to calculate the number of conesof each SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) are needed. The last columnon the right is for entering the average production per machinewhich will allowANECALCPLUS to calculate the number ofcones required for line coverage.

- mm to Inchestab that helps you convert fractions of an inch tomillimeters.

STARTING A NEWANECALCPLUSSPREAD SHEET

- To begin a newANECALCPLUSspreadsheet, you can eitheruse an existing Apparel GuidelinesANECALCPLUSspreadsheet for a similar garment and modify it for the garmentyou are doing the analysis on; or you can decide to begin fromscratch with a new Spreadsheet.

WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, we

suggest you first begin with an ANECALCPLUS worksheet.- For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the

sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, the rowsof that ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and thelength of the seam. Once you have this information you canbegin to input the information into a Microsoft Excel

ANECALCPLUSspreadsheet.- It is important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the

weight of the fabric being used in the garment. There are threebasicANECALC PLUSPLUSspreadsheets:

Light Weight - 1 to 4 oz weight fabricsMedium Weight58 oz weight fabrics

Heavy Weight915 oz weight fabricsThe Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottomthread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimatethe amount of thread consumed.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS- At the top of eachANECALC spreadsheet is a cell where you

can change the average thickness of the seam in millimeters.This is based on the average seam thickness in the entiregarment. In most cases, you will not have to change this if youare using the correct spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavyweight fabric.

SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE

- Most stitches formed on Industrial Sewing Machines have beenassigned an ISO 4915Stitch Number. A chart with the mostcommonly used ISO 4915 stitch numbers can be found on

A&Es website (www.amefird.com) under the TechnicalInformation Tab.

- On some stitches, you must also select the stitch based on theneedle spacing or seam width.(Ex. 504 -1/83 Thd Overedge).

- It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch numberbecause this will determine the amount of thread calculated tomake the seam.

NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH

- This does NOT refer to the number of needles, BUT the numberof rows of ISO stitch you identified used to make the seam.

- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch.This two needle stitch type makes up one row of stitch. Rule:whenever the needles are connected with thread on either thetop or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is beingproduced.

- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocketwith a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitchare being used.

SPI

- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of thenumber of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.

- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denimwould be 8 spi. See A&Es technical bulletin on Selecting theProper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&Es website.

LENGTH OF SEAM

- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam lengthincluding seam margins but does not include chain-off.

- A&E hasANECALCPLUSspreadsheets available in eitheryards and inches or metres and centimeters. The selection ofthe proper sheet is normally dependent upon the thread beingwound on cones that have lengths measured in yards or in

meters.- In the U.S., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000 yard

put-up. In Europe or in Asia, a typical cone is wound on a5,000 metre put-up.


2/12

Many sewing operations have mirror components on each side ofthe garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left pocket, etc. Ifthe sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then

double the measurement for the seam length.

HIDING ROWS

- A typicalANECALCPLUSspreadsheet has enough rows for35 operations but in many cases, you will not need all theserows.

- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and theTotals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left handmargin and drag down the Row numbers until you are justabove the Totals.

- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

INSERTING A NEW ROW

- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.

- Next, right click and selectCopy.- Now right click again and selectInsert Copied Cells.- You will now have two identical rows one above the other.- Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just added.

- Then select Format Controlfrom the pop-up menu.- Change the Cell Linkto the proper Row Number. In this case,

change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.

- Now you can change the operation numbers and theinformation in the New Row you just inserted.

- If ou chan e the Stitch T e make sure that ou ut the ri ht


3/12

,thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR

- ForANECALCPLUSto be able to calculate the cost per

garment, the Thread information for each operation must beinserted next to the thread consumption calculation.- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the

appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper threadpositions where there is thread consumed.

- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all threaddescriptions into the worksheet. Any variation on the way thethread type and size are listed will be looked at by ANECALCPLUS as separate SKUs. (Example: T-27 Perma Spun and T27Perma Spun will be counted as 2 separate SKUs).

- For ease, someANECALCPLUSspreadsheet for commongarments that generally use only one or two thread types willallow you to type in the Thread description once andANECALCPLUSwill fill in the appropriate locations.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU

- ForANECALCPLUSto be able to calculate the Total ThreadConsumption by SKU (stock keeping unit), you will need to copyand paste each different SKU in the box in the lower left-handcorner of the spreadsheet.ANECALCPLUSwill then gothrough the entire spreadsheet and add up the totals for eachSKU.

- Rule: If you see numbers below the locations where you havecopied and pasted an SKU, then this indicates that you left outan SKU in the top part of the spreadsheet under Needle, Bobbinor Looper thread.

- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary mustbe equal to the Total amount of thread found under theworksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missedcopying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the

spreadsheet.

CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT

- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread put-up and price per cone.

- ForANECALCPLUSspreadsheets that calculate the ThreadConsumption in meters, then the thread price should be inThread Price Per Meter.

- Any currency can be used onANECALCPLUS.

CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED

- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in theproduction requirement in the Program Size cell. ANECALCPLUSwill calculate the number of cones needed for the threadin the sewn products.

- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then morethread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage onthe sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum numberof cones needed to thread up the machines on a productionline to run the work efficiently without delay.

-ANECALCPLUS can calculate the number of cones that willbe need only if the average production output per machine peroperation is enter in the right-hand column. You must alsoenter the Line Output Per Day soANECALCPLUS cancalculate the number of sewing machine required and thenumber of cones required for each sewing operation.

- By changing the Program Size, you can see the impact this hason the Total Thread Cost for Line Coverage compared to theTotal Thread Cost for the Garment being sewn.

- Obviously, larger production lots will not cost much more thanthe thread in the garments, depending on the cones sizes.However, for small lot sizes, the thread cost can double ortriple because many more cones are required to thread up thesewing line.


4/12


5/12


6/12


7/12


8/12


9/12

ANECALC

PHOTO OF GARMENT


10/12

Fill in the information highlighted in 'blue' 1.

Company Name:

ANECALC Plus was designed to not only calculate the amount of thread consumed

in a sewn product, but the number of cones required to thread up the production line.

Garment Description: If the retail program size is small, then the thread cost will be higher for proper line c

ROWS SEAM NEEDLE NEEDLE BOBBIN BOBBIN LOO

Oper ISO OF LENGTH THD IN THREAD THREAD THREAD THRE

# NAME OF OPERATION STITCH TYPE STITCH SPI CM METRES METRES MET

1 301

2

3

4

5

6

7

8 301

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16 301

17

18

19

20

American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS

Avg. Seam Thickness

Page 10 of 12


11/12

American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS

21

22

23 301

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

SUBTOTALS

PROGRAM SIZE: 1200

Waste Factor 10%

LINE OUTPUT PER DAY: 2000

Cones Program or

Line Coverage

Copy & Paste Thread Size & TOTAL CONE PRICE

Type from above METRES SIZE /CONE

1 -$

2 -$ 3 -$

4 -$

-$

Total Mtrs./Garment w Waste Per Program

Cost/Garment = -$ Cost/Garment =

F

Cones/

ProgramCones/ Program C

Cones / Thread ConsumedThread

CostCones/ Program

CUR-

RENCY

Page 11 of 12


12/12

Metric

fraction decimal mm

0.125 3.18

3/16 0.188 4.76

1/4 0.250 6.353/8 0.375 9.53

1/2 0.500 12.70

5/8 0.625 15.88

3/4 0.750 19.05

1 1.000 25.40

Inches

Documents

An e Calc Plus Metric Light