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APPLICATIONS AND
INSPIRATIONS
APPLICATIONS AND
INSPIRATIONS
Swarovski’s reputation for success is built on 120 years of dedication to creative innovation and unrivaled service for our customers. The Swarovski Gemstones Business, founded in 1965, focuses our expertise on genuine gemstones and created stones sourced naturally from only the finest raw materials. All Swarovski Genuine Gemstones and Created Stones are cut and polished exclusively on our own premises and adhere to the strictest standards of responsible production. Customers in the jewelry and watch sectors, as well as in consumer electronics, eyewear, writing instruments, automotive and packaging industries, increasingly choose our products to realize their creative visions.
Swarovski Genuine Gemstones and Created Stones allow you to stand out from competitors and create significant added value for your products. Application Support is one of a quartet of support services that also includes Branding Support, Design Support and Technical Support. Swarovski in-house experts stand ready with design solutions for integrating our gemstones and created stones into your products and the application know-how needed for your success.
We offer this practical introduction to gemstone setting as a tool to identify the application methods most relevant to your business, complete with illustrations to inspire you to bejewel your products with Swarovski Genuine Gemstones and Created Stones.
INTRODuCTION
The Swarovski Components program makes the setting of our stones simple, creative and intuitive. Without the need for any stone setting skills, our Genuine Gemstones and Created Stones can be easily applied to the materials of your choice – from stainless steel, titanium and leather, to wood and plastic. For cost-effective, beautiful results, simply use our components with your creative designs for jewelry, watches, eyewear, consumer electronics, and much more. As with all Swarovski products, the quality standards of highest precision, minimum tolerances and maximum brilliance are guaranteed.
ReCommenDeD FoR:– Various materials such as stainless steel, titanium, wood or plastic
ADVAnTAGeS:– Time-efficient and easy way to apply stones– no stone setting skills required – For materials that have historically been either impossible or extremely difficult to set stones into
SWAROVSKI COMPONENTSSeT WITH GenUIne GemSToneS & CReATeD SToneS
PRESETTINGSSwarovski Presettings can be used to set stones of various sizes and colors in solid or thin-walled materials. Stones are available mounted in bezel or prong-settings in 18 KT Yellow and White Gold, Silver, Brass, and Bronze from 1.30mm to 3.0mm.
GEMOTIONSimple and ingenious, Swarovski Gemotion is an outstanding product for setting stones in flexible materials such as leather, or for applying them to movable rails. Thanks to its rivet-like function, designers and manufactures can create jewelry, eyewear and individual accessories with ease. Gemotion consists of two parts: a mounting, set with a 2.00mm, 3.00mm or 4.00mm genuine gemstone or created stone; and a counterpart, or closure. Both parts are connected easily, and perma-nently, by simply snapping them together.
JEWELCHAINJewelchain is a unique, gem-set component conceived to save Swarovski customers both production time and money. Available prong-set in 1.50mm, 1.75mm, 2.00mm and 2.50mm and bezel-set in 3.00mm, Jewelchain can be cut into desired lengths to be incorporated into jewelry pieces such as rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Jewelchain is also perfect for sparkling embellishments in the fashion and accessories segments, maximizing design options while minimizing stone breakage. Like all Swarovski Components, Jewelchain is easy to use and is applied by gluing the chain in place using a two-component glue. Alternatively, the chain can be soldered in place on brass and other thread metals by using a soldering iron with solder and flux.
Initially, a hole must be drilled into the material. De-pending on the presetting type, a 2-stage hole may be required. In the case of plastic, the holes can also be created during the injection molding process.
CliCking OptiOn (for Bezel Thin-Walled, Bezel Solid, Bezel, Prong and Plastic Presetting): Using tweezers, pick up the preset-ting and place it straight into the hole.
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2a
presettings
GluinG OptiOn (for Bezel Hollow Open and Bezel Hollow Closed): Using a gluing needle, glue is put on the rim of the presetting.
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Press the presetting into the hole using the flat end of the tweezers. The presetting will click into place and is instantly set. The presetting is now set firmly into the material.
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The presetting is then ready to be placed into the cavity.
3b
clicked presettings
glued presettingsCompAny: Columbus VerlagWeB: www.columbus-verlag.de mATeRIAl: presetting Bezel with Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: plastic presetting with Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: presetting BSo with Swarovski Zirconia White
plastic presetting
Bezel Thin Walled (BTW)
Bezel Solid open (BSo)
Bezel
prong
Bezel Hollow Closed (BHC)
Bezel Hollow open (BHo)
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.orgmATeRIAl: presetting BHC with Topaz pink
gemotion
The Movable GeMoTion opTion: The mounting part of the Gemotion is placed in the rail. This piece is then secured within the rail by snapping the counterpart into place from under the rail.
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Next the Gemotion mounting and counterpart are snapped together, trapping the material between them. This can be easily done with a pair of pliers or with a special machine.
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The Fixed GemoTion opTion: A hole is first punched into the material. This can be done either manually with pliers, as seen in the illustration, or with a machine.
1a
Designer: nemanja ilice-mail: [email protected]: gemotion fixed with swarovski Zirconia White
Designer: isabelle LopesWeb: www.2designers.orgMateriaL: gemotion movable with swarovski genuine topaz various colors
jewelchain
A CnC machine is needed to mill the required cavity into the metal part, in this example a watch bezel.
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This is the finished product with the Jewelchain glued inside.
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Here a two-component glue is used to glue the Jewel-chain carefully in place.
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brand: Salvatore Ferragamo TimepiecesWeb: www.ferragamotimepieces.com MaTerial: Jewelchain with Swarovski Genuine Topaz Kashmir blue, Poppy, Pink
Designer: nemanja ilice-mail: [email protected]: Jewelchain with swarovski genuine topaz White
Designer: Csaba Hegedüse-Mail: [email protected]
Material: Jewelchain with swarovski Zirconia White
Designer: nemanja ilice-mail: [email protected]: Jewelchain with swarovski Zirconia White
CnC setting was first invented by the watch industry in the late 1980s out of the need to easily reproduce a single stone setting with very high precision, and in large quantities. It is most commonly used with stainless steel or aluminum, but chromium, brass and even precious metals can be used for CnC setting. CnC setting is perfect for stone intensive designs and has the added advantage of being able to set stones on curved surfaces. The CnC machine is individually programed for each design so the creative possibilities are limitless. Technolo-gical development is currently bringing down the previously high costs of CnC setting and makes it thus more attractive for many industries.
CNC SETTINg
Company: Laban pen Co. Ltd.Web: www.laban.com materiaL: Swarovski Zirconia White
RECOMMENDED fOR:– Stone intensive designs– Stainless steel– Aluminum
ADVANTAgES:– High quality setting– Jewelry-like look– many design possibilities
A CAD/CAm technical drawing of the stone-set part must be created first.
The CAD/CAm drawing is used to program the CnC machine.
The CnC machine first mills the cavities into the metal part.
next, the prongs are milled out of the metal part.
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CNC SETTINg
The stone setting is usually done manually in 3 steps:1) The stone is placed into the cavity.2) The prongs are bent over the edge of the stone.3) The prongs are rounded and polished.
The manual beading and polishing of the prongs is often done under a microscope.
The CnC set metal part is now finished.
5 6
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1)
2) 3)
CompAny: Tinno mobileWeB: http://sugarphone.com
mATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.org
mATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White
CompAny: DigplusWeB: www.digplus-cn.com mATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White and Amber
CompAny: laban pen Co. ltd.WeB: www.laban.com mATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.orgmATeRIAl: Swarovski Genuine Topaz various colors
lost Wax Casting is the jewelry industry’s preferred process for creating precise duplicates from an original piece of jewelry, the so-called masterpiece. lost Wax Casting is especially advantageous when you wish to develop designs requiring multiple stones set in metals with low melting points – like brass, silver and gold. Stainless steel is excluded from this process. lost Wax Casting is best used with round stones of up to 3mm in size. you can choose other variously shaped stones, but they will be more difficult to set properly.
CASTINg IN PLACE / LOST WAX CASTINg
Designer: nemanja ilice-mail: [email protected]: swarovski genuine topaz White
RECOMMENDED fOR:– Stone intensive designs– Jewelry-like components– Brass, silver, gold and other metals with low to medium melting point
ADVANTAgES:– High quality– many design possibilities
liquid wax is injected into a rubber mold to create a wax model. Duplicates of the wax model are made from the same mold.
A vacuum needle is then used to mount stones by hand onto each of the wax models.
All the wax models are soldered on the so-called wax tree.
The wax tree is placed in a crucible. A machine is then used to inject investment, usually plaster, into the space surrounding the wax tree.
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CASTINg IN PLACE / LOST WAX CASTINg
The crucible is heated in an oven, the burn out furnace, to melt and ‘burn out’ the wax. There is now empty space where the wax tree used to be. only the invest-ment and the stones remain.
A casting machine next fills the investment with a choice of liquid metal (gold, silver, brass or alloys). By using pressure from above and vacuum from below, the casting machine not only ensures that the metal quickly fills the empty space but also that no air bubbles remain within the newly cast jewelry pieces.
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The casting process is now complete and the individual jewelry pieces can be cut off the metal tree.
The individual jewelry pieces can now be finished and polished.
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After casting, four hours are needed for the crucible to cool down to room temperature. The crucible is then quenched in water, also at room temperature, to dissolve the investment. The remaining metal tree is then jet cleaned with water before it is acid cleaned.
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DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.orgmATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.org
mATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia White, Round pure Brilliance and pentagon cut
DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.org
mATeRIAl: Swarovski Genuine Blue Sapphire color fading
DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Isabelle lopesWeB: www.2designers.orgmATeRIAl: Swarovski Zirconia color mix
The classic bezel setting is the earliest known method for attaching stones to jewelry pieces. This setting has the advantage of holding a gemstone securely in place with a low protective lip that is created when the bezel is closed during the setting process. Unlike a prong setting, the lip encircles and overlaps the entire edge of the stone, protecting it from breakage and scratches.
bEzEL SETTINg
In preparation, a strip of metal is bent into the exact shape and size of the selected stone. After the stone has been inserted into the cavity, a setting tool is used to press the metal strip onto the stone. The metal strip is now bend over the edge of the stone.
In the above illustration, you can see how the stone sits in the bezel setting.
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RECOMMENDED fOR:– Single stones, big stones– Stainless steel, brass, gold, silver– Thin metal, low thickness
ADVANTAgES:– low weight– low cost
Designer: Csaba Hegedüse-Mail: [email protected]: swarovski Zirconiavarious colors
The sandwich setting is as simple as its name suggests. The selected stone is held in place between two layers of plastic, creating a sandwich. Alternatively, one of the layers – or sometimes even both – can be out of metal. The base piece has the cavity necessary to hold the stone, and the top piece works to keep the stone in place.
SANDWICh SETTINg
Here is an illustration of an earphone with three stones being put into place between the two layers of plastic.
The two plastic layers can be fastened together either with glue or with a snapping mechanism.
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RECOMMENDED fOR:– plastic parts– plastic and metal combinations
ADVANTAgES:– low cost– easy to apply
Designer: Csaba Hegedüse-Mail: [email protected]: swarovski Zirconia round and Pear Pure Brilliance cuts, various colors
This is a brand new application method developed by the Swarovski Gemstone Business. The patent is pending on this unique process, so we can only supply a generalized explanation. Simply stated, the melt setting allows stones to be easily integrated into all meltable plastics such as polyurethane, polypropylene, pVC, ABS and Acetate.
MELT SETTINg
Designer: Csaba Hegedüse-Mail: [email protected]: swarovski Zirconia White
RECOMMENDED fOR:– meltable plastics such as polyurethane, polypropylene, pVC, ABS, Acetate– Small or large production quantities
ADVANTAgES:– low cost– easy to apply– environmentally friendly (only heat is needed for application)
First, a hole needs to be created in the base material. This can be created by drilling, or during the plastic in-jection process. The hole can pass straight through the material. Alternatively it can be drilled only a part of the way into the material. Always leave enough room for a small pillow of air beneath the stone to ensure its brilliance.
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MELT SETTINg
The stone must be placed parallel to the hole.
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place the heating unit on the stone table. ensure that the heating unit (e.g. heating pen) is only touching the stone surface and table.
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As the heated stone begins to melt the plastic material, the heating unit is used to push the stone gently down into that material.
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The heating unit is removed, and the stone and setting left to cool. The plastic now firmly holds the stone, just like a bezel.
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DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: Csaba Hegedüse-mAIl: [email protected]: Swarovski Zirconia White
DeSIGneR: nemanja Ilice-mAIl: [email protected]: Swarovski Zirconia White
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OffICES & CONTACTS
IMPRINT© D. Swarovski Distribution GmbH 2015. All rights reserved.no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form(including photocopying or storing it in any medium by electronic means)without the written permission of the copyright owners.publisher: D. Swarovski Distribution GmbHContent is subject to change without notice.errors and misprints excepted.For further information please contact: [email protected]
Creative Agency:CCS (SWARoVSKI Corporate Creative Services) / Art Direction: Annette Reichert
Complete information is also available on our website www.swarovski-gemstones.com/applications
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