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Recipes Nouha Taouk Words Pat Nourse Photography Johan Palsson Styling Mary Harris

Every family has its story, and this family’s story is best told through food. Nouha Taouk has collected the recipes of the women of her clan into a book, Whispers

from a Lebanese Kitchen. In an exclusive preview, here’s a taste of its warmth.

familyKibbeh otah (recipe p126)

Three generationsAuthor Nouha Taouk (centre), her grandmother, Leila Taouk (left), and her mother, Joumana Taouk (right).

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Rooz il falfal (recipe p125)

“I t was always the tabbouleh when I was a kid,” says

Nouha Taouk. “They always needed a taster for that.” When she says

“they”, she’s talking about the women of her family: her mother Joumana, Joumana’s sisters Hind, Rosa and Therese, and the matriarch, Citi (Nanna) Leila. It was among their aprons strings that she grew up, in the suburbs of Sydney, and it was among them that she learned the

secrets of the Lebanese kitchen. “I loved the way Aunty Rosa would be chopping away frantically, and she’d get us to squeeze the lemon and put that in, and it was up to you to taste it and tell her what was missing.”

Whispers from a Lebanese Kitchen, the book of family recipes Nouha has collected, has been some years in the making. You could date it from when, as a precocious 10-year-old would-be recipe writer, she started grilling mum for her recipes, which she duly took down with her typewriter. Or you could take its genesis back a bigger leap in time to when the now 73-year-old Leila left Becharee, the village in northern Lebanon where she

grew up, for Sydney, following her husband, Gidi.“I wanted to capture Lebanese Australia,” Nouha says.

“There’s a stereotype there, but not really that much understanding of what Lebanese Australia is all about. This is where we come from. I’ve grown up in the chaos of these women and their cooking, always having them in this kitchen with kids running around the adults.”

Leila says the process of putting the book together was a pleasure. “Revisiting some of those older recipes, too,” adds Nouha. “Citi would tell me some of the stories that her mother told when she was teaching her these dishes.” Looking at the pickling and preserving section of the book, for instance, inspired plenty of talk about what village life in Lebanon was like, and about the importance of self-sufficiency in their community.

“I learned so much about why they did things the way they did.”

With her first daughter due around the same time as the book’s publication, meanwhile, Nouha has given plenty of thought to the traditions she wants to pass on within her own branch of the family. “My daughter will be flooded with stories of my childhood and how we do things, of course. I want her to feel free to make the things the women of my family taught me to make. I want her to have the same relationship I have with food. I want her to enjoy it and have an understanding of why we eat what we eat, and its cultural significance.”

As Leila puts it in the book, “We celebrate life through food not just by eating together but by coming together and producing it.”

Kibbet il rohebMonk’s kibbeh soup (Good Friday soup)

“This soup is consumed after mid-morning mass on

Good Friday. When we were children it was supposed

to be our consolation prize for fasting until midday and

lasting through an overcrowded and longer than usual

church service.” The burghul balls are simmered in the

soup, but they could also be brushed with oil and pan-

fried. You’ll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

Prep time 40 mins, cook 1 hr 45 mins (plus soaking)Serves 8

150 gm each chickpeas and borlotti beans, soaked overnight in cold water, drained 3 litres (12 cups) vegetable stock or water 80 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil 3 onions, finely chopped 1 bunch silverbeet, coarsely chopped lemon juice to taste, to serve Burghul balls 265 gm fine burghul 2 onions, finely chopped 1 tsp ground cumin, or to taste 1 tsp finely ground lebanese black pepper 500 gm mashed baked pumpkin (from about 1 small butternut pumpkin) 1 tbsp chopped mint, or 1 tsp dried mint Pinch chilli powder, or to taste (optional) 110 gm plain flour

1 Place the beans and chickpeas in a very large saucepan with the stock or water. cook over medium heat until they just begin to soften (30-40 minutes). reduce the heat to low and add 250ml of water to settle the liquid. Keep over low heat.2 heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat and cook the onion until golden and translucent. Add to the beans and chickpeas. stir, partially cover and keep over low heat.3 For the burghul balls, soak the burghul in 500ml of warm water until softened (30 minutes). Drain and squeeze to remove excess water. Meanwhile, rub the onion with some salt to taste and transfer to a large bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients, including the burghul. scrunch the mixture with your hands and knead to get an even consistency. roll 2 teaspoons of the mixture with your hands into a 2.5cm ball. The ball should feel nice and firm

– if it feels soft, add a little more flour. set aside on a tray and repeat with remaining mixture.4 Bring the soup mixture to the boil, then add the balls, one at a time, to the boiling water and beans. stir occasionally to stop the balls from clinging to each other. Add the silverbeet, stir gently and cook until wilted (10-15 minutes). season to taste with lemon juice and serve.>

Kibbet il roheb

Fasolia bi lahem (recipe p126)

The author, Nouha Taouk, and her grandmother, Leila.

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Bemeh otah

Sumbuskeh

Bemeh otahVegetarian okra casserole

Prep time 10 mins, cook 45 minsServes 6

80 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil750 gm okra, trimmed 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 onions, finely chopped 8 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 long red chillies, seeded and sliced 4 very ripe tomatoes, scored, blanched (see cook’s notes p194), peeled and diced ¼ cup (firmly packed) coriander 1 tsp ground cumin (or to taste)

1 Working in batches, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat and lay the okra neatly into the pan, lining them up side by side to fill the base. cook the okra on each side until slightly softened (3-4 minutes each side). remove from the pan and drain on either a flat strainer or on kitchen paper. repeat with the remaining okra, adding more oil if necessary.2 heat the vegetable oil in a saucepan over medium heat. cook the onion until it begins to soften (5-10 minutes). Add the garlic and stir with the onion for about 1 minute. stir in the chilli, tomato, coriander and cumin and season to taste with salt. cook over low heat until very tender (15-20 minutes). Add the okra to the pan and gently stir. simmer with the lid on until tender (10 minutes), then serve.

Rooz il falfalBoiled rice with egg noodles

“Serve this with fasolia bi lahem (p126)

or bumeh otah (recipe at left).”

Prep time 10 mins, cook 20 minsServes 8 as a side dish (pictured p123)

40 gm butter 130 gm dried fine egg noodles (see note) 370 gm medium-grain rice, washed very well (see note)

1 Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Break the noodles into small pieces with your hands and add to the pan. stir occasionally until golden (5 minutes), remove from pan and set aside. Add the rice to the pan and season to taste with salt. Add 1.125 litres of water and bring to the boil. cover with a lid, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the rice is cooked (15 minutes). gently stir in the egg noodles and serve.Note Dried fine egg noodles are available from lebanese grocers. We used medium-grain rice, but you can make this with long-grain rice if you prefer.>

SumbuskehMinced meat and pine nut parcels

“These are good served with hummus, baba

ghanoush or labne. You can make them ahead, then

freeze the uncooked parcels on trays lined with

baking paper, making sure they’re not touching

each other. Frozen sumbuskeh will need to be

thawed for only a short while, otherwise the dough

will begin to cling and tear.”

Prep time 40 mins, cook 50 mins (plus cooling, resting)Makes 35

Eggwash, for brushing (see cook’s notes p194) Vegetable oil, for deep-frying hummus, baba ghanoush or labne, to serve Filling 3 tsp vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 350 gm minced lamb or beef ½ tsp baharat, or to taste (see note) 40 gm toasted pine nuts Dough 500 gm plain flour 125 ml (½ cup) beer 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp salt

1 For the filling, heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion until soft and translucent (10-12 minutes). set the onion aside in a heatproof bowl. cook the

meat in the same pan over medium heat, adding more oil if required, sprinkle with the baharat and season to taste with salt. cook the meat until browned and cooked through (15-20 minutes). combine the meat with the onion in the bowl, and add the pine nuts. season to taste and set aside to cool completely.2 For the dough, combine the ingredients and 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water in a large bowl. Knead the dough until smooth and set aside in a lightly floured bowl. cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes.3 sprinkle a work surface with flour. Divide the dough into four portions and work with one portion at a time. using a rolling pin, roll the dough to about 3mm thick. cut out circles about 7cm in diameter – you can use a cup, bowl or cutter to help you. Place 1½ teaspoons of filling just off-centre of each dough circle, then brush edges with eggwash. Fold the dough circles in half to form a semicircle pocket. To seal the parcels, use your fingers to pleat the edges. Alternatively, press the tines of a fork into the dough to crimp the edges.4 heat the oil in a saucepan to 180c and deep-fry the parcels in batches until golden (3-4 minutes), turning once (be careful as hot oil will spit). Drain on kitchen paper and serve. Note The Taouk family baharat recipe consists of equal amounts of ground cumin, ground cinnamon and finely ground lebanese black pepper. you can substitute a ready-made baharat spice mix, available from herbie’s spices (see stockists p193), lebanese grocers and select delicatessens.

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Atayef mishi bi jowez oh foostah halabeeLebanese pancakes stuffed with nuts

You can fill these pancakes with nuts, as shown

here, or with ashta, which is Lebanese clotted

cream, typically made by reducing full-cream milk.

It’s available from Lebanese grocers.

Prep time 20 mins, cook 1 hr 50 mins (plus proving)Makes about 20

2 tsp dried yeast 300 gm (2 cups) plain flour 2 tbsp sugar 100 ml vegetable oil Sugar syrup 460 gm caster sugar 1½ tsp lemon juice and 3 small pieces lemon rind, removed with a peeler Nut filling 100 gm pistachios 70 gm walnuts 100 gm sugar 1¼ tsp orange-blossom water

1 For the sugar syrup, combine sugar, lemon juice, lemon rind and 1 cup water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Increase heat to high, bring to the boil, reduce heat to low and simmer until slightly syrupy (8 minutes). set aside to cool, then remove lemon rind. Pour into a sterilised jar and seal with a lid. Makes 500ml. sugar syrup will keep refrigerated for 2 months. Bring syrup to room temperature before using.2 Dissolve the yeast in 40ml of warm water. sift the flour into the bowl of an electric mixer and add the yeast mixture, sugar and 625ml of warm water. Beat until you have a runny mixture. set aside and cover with a kitchen towel for 1 hour, or until it doubles in volume (1 hour).3 Meanwhile, for the nut filling, place the nuts in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer the nuts to a bowl with the sugar and orange-blossom water and mix together. set aside.4 grease a non-stick or cast-iron frying pan with ¼ tsp oil and heat over medium heat.

reproduced from Whispers from a Lebanese Kitchen ($59.99, hbk) by nouha Taouk, to be published in April by Murdoch Books. recipes have been reproduced with minor Gourmet Traveller style changes.

Kibbeh otahVegetarian kibbeh ovals

You’ll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

Prep time 40 mins, cook 1 hr (plus soaking)Makes about 20 (pictured p121)

Vegetable oil, for brushing 500 gm burghul 700 gm butternut pumpkin (about 1), baked and mashed) 1 onion, finely grated 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped, or 1 tsp dried mint, or to taste 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour 1 tsp ground cumin Filling 220 gm (1 cup) dried split chickpeas (see note), soaked overnight in cold water, drained 2 tsp olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped ½ bunch silverbeet, leaves coarsely chopped, stems discarded Pinch ground cumin, or to taste Pinch chilli powder, or to taste

1 For the filling, place the chickpeas in a saucepan of water and bring to the boil. Boil for 20 minutes. remove from the heat, then drain. heat the oil in a saucepan over low heat and cook the onion until soft and translucent (10 minutes). Add the chickpeas and stir for about 10 minutes. Add the silverbeet and spices, season to taste and stir occasionally for 5 minutes. remove from the heat and place in a bowl. Allow to cool.2 Preheat the oven to 200c. Brush an oven tray with oil. soak the burghul in 500ml of warm water for 30 minutes. strain the burghul in a sieve, then squeeze it in your hands to remove as much water as possible. Add the burghul to a large bowl along with the rest of

Atayef mishi bi jowez oh foostah halabee

Kitchen talesLeila Taouk and Nouha Taouk (background).

Fasolia bi lahemBorlotti bean and lamb casserole

“This is ideal served with boiled rice with egg

noodles (see p125).” You’ll need to begin this

recipe a day ahead.

Prep time 15 mins, cook 1 hr 40 mins (plus soaking)Serves 4-6 (pictured p123)

80 gm butter 4 onions, coarsely chopped 500 gm diced lamb shank 1 cinnamon quill 2 litres (8 cups) chicken stock or water400 gm dried borlotti beans, soaked overnight in cold water, drained 1 potato (about 200gm), peeled and diced 70 gm (¼ cup) tomato paste 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped Pinch of ground chilli powder, or to taste (optional) ½ tsp ground cumin, or to taste

1 Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion until soft (10-15 minutes). Add the lamb and cinnamon stick and stir occasionally until sealed (5-10 minutes). Add 2 litres of stock or water (or enough to cover), then add the beans and potato. Bring to the boil over high heat. reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and simmer until the lamb is just tender and the beans are soft (1 hour). Add the tomato paste, garlic and chilli powder. stir, then cover with the lid and cook until the lamb is tender (15 minutes). remove from the heat, add cumin, season to taste and serve.*

the ingredients. Mix together and season to taste. Dampen your hands with some water and grab a handful of burghul mixture. Mould into an oval shape to fit the palm of your hand. Wet your index finger and poke through one end of the oval. Make a hollow by working around the hole by pressing against the palm of your hand to create a thin wall. Place 1 tbsp of the filling into the hollowed opening. Wet your hand and gently close the oval. Place the oval on the tray, then brush the top with oil. repeat with the rest of the mixture. Bake until golden (15-20 minutes). Alternatively, deep-fry them in oil heated to 180c and cook for no more than 5 minutes, or until light golden, turning them occasionally.Note Dried split chickpeas are available from lebanese and Indian grocers.

“I’ve GROWN up IN THe CHAOS Of THeSe WOMeN ANd THeIR COOkING, ALWAYS HAvING THeM IN THIS kITCHeN WITH kIdS RuNNING AROuNd.”

Pour 1/3 cup of the batter into the frying pan. spread the batter to make a round pancake about 12cm in diameter. cook one side until light golden (3-5 minutes). The top should begin to form small craters or holes; once the top dries, remove the pancake from the heat, do not flip over. repeat with remaining batter. Place each pancake on a work surface, holey-side up. Place about 1 tbsp of filling just off-centre of each pancake. Fold the pancake in half and press the edges together to seal. Drizzle with sugar syrup to taste and serve at room temperature.