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A GARDEtiERS GUIDE P'C Sr

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. "...Contents, answering the commonest questions we hear at The Fava Pi-oject.

Page 1. Why grow Favas? What are they? 2 2. Where do they come from? 5 3. What type should I grow'? 7 4. Where can I buy seed? 10 5. How should the soil be? 12 6. When should they be planted? 15 7. How should I cultivate them? 19 8. What about cover crops? 22 9. How do I treat pests and diseases? 24 10. When will I be able to harvest? 26 11. can I save my own seed? 27 12. Is there a commercial market? 30 13. What is their food value? 31 14. Should I wony about favism? 33 15. Don't they cause gas? 34 16. How do I prepare them? 35 17. More infonnation 47

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Favas are not Phasaeolus; they are Vicia" a vetch. They are frost hardy. Most large seeded varieties live through lO-15°F. Some of the smaller ones will go to zero, or -10°F. In most respects they out-produce and out-perform Phasaeolus in areas with warm winters or cool summers.

In mild-winter areas their hardiness enables Favas to grow overwinter, yielding a bean crop in late spring, just as your neighbors are thinking about planting their snap and wax beans!· By the time string beans have young p()ds, you'll be ready to harvest dry beans off the Fava, and plant a follow-on crop in the enriched ground.

How do you tell if the seed you have is Phasaeolus or Vida jaba? Look at the hilum (that little scar on the seed that is its umbilicus, its connection to the parent pod). Favas are unusual in havmg their hilum at the end of the seed; Phasaeolus have a scar on the side.

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Many of us home gardeners and rural smallholders would like to grow our own high grade protein; yet unless one raises animals, growing sufficient protein can be one of the barriers to self­sufficiency. Potatoes are a protein source, though you need to eat large quantities to obtain.an adequate amount. Soybeans are excellent, but J:!row well only in warm climates and are tedious to shell. Most dry. beans have the problem of small seeds and short production seasons.

Pintos. Limas, Runners, Wax, Snap, Black and Cranberry; the common i bush and pole beans grown in North America are derived from Central American subtropical, Phasaeolus species. In wet swnmers the bush types lose pods to slugs and rotting; in short­

-g - season areas the pole types have v-ouble ripening. They can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed, so in many areas dry bean crops catch fall frosts before they are fully ripened.

1. WHYGROWFAVAS? WHAT ARETHEY?

2. WHERE 00 THEY COME FROM 1·

Why an the recent interest in Fava beans? "i' Imagine a plant which:

• . delivers 1-3 tons/acre of 30% protein seed, second only to soy

. ,

• is frost-hardy, so can be grown overwinter • survives drought well• grows best at low temperatures, 40°-70°F • has the largest seed of any temperate

crop, for easy shelling• stands on stiff, erect canes which remain

above the mud• is edible in all its parts: leaves, pods and

green or dry seeds• offers the earliest legume crop for home or

market gardeners '" • improves the soil by deep penetration and

nitrogen fixation• is equally valuable for human food, animal

fodder, silage and cover crops• is already a major crop all over the world• can be made into tofu, Iniso, tempeh,

hummus, falafel and a coffee substitute• and has black and white flowers, .attractive to

bees and deliciously perfumed

Favas have been'a staple food for millennia in most of the world's temperate regions -- Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and temperate Asia. Yet, until now, Favas have been largely ignored in the.US; they are still relatively unknown to gardeners, farmers and cooks.

Now, fmally, there is much interest in them in tpe US and Canada, though it is still rather difficult to find a

.good range of seed and much research remains to be done, especially on developing varieties better suited to our unique climates.

Favas, it seems, probably were first domesticated in the Middle East, in Neolithic times. They have been excavated from a site 9,000 years old in what' is now Israel and appear to be one of the oldest cultivated crops. ,

After spreading through the Mediterranean region, they moved into the Nile valley and northward into Europe. Favas reached the east coast of Spain by the end of the fifth millennium B.C. and later appeared in central Europe.

Favas were probably introduced into China with the silk trade. Folktales dating from 100 B.C. speak of Favas in China. Japanese stories mention them, beginning in 7.00 AD. All of these were of the ,small-seeded type (sub-species minor). The large-seeded type (sub­species major) did not appear at all until about 500 A.D. and did not reach China until around 1200 A.D.

Until Phasaeolus beans were introduced into Europe in the 1500's, Fava was the only European bean. The very word 'bean' was synonymous with Fava; the three beans given to Jack must surely have been Favas.

When Europeans colonized other continents, they took with them their own bean. To this day Favas are grown in every climate where Europeans settled, except the lowland tropics.

4 5

3. WHAT TYPE SHOlJ~D I GROW? (For Food; For Cover Crops)

From Europe, Favas found their way to the New World with the anival of Columbus. This voyage also included the European discovery of Phasaeolus beans, which subsequently overshadowed their II10re nutritious forbears. Spaniards and Portuguese introduced Favas to Mexico, .Central and South America in the 16th century; records of the second governor to arrive in. Colombia show that he took Fava seeds with him in 1593.

Genetically isolated strains exist now in highland valleys of Guatemala, on the Peruvian altiplano and throughout the Andean part of Ecuador. The Tarahumara Indians in Mexico developed 1:heir own Broad beans, which were drought resistant and hardy in the Americas. More than 400 years of in-breeding has produced in Latin America an amazing diversity of beans which exist nowhere else on earth. .

In North America the fIrst introduction ()f Favas was by Captain Gosnold in 1602. They were Jound to grow well on the Elizabeth Islands near the coast of Massachusetts. There are records that Favas were cultivated in Newfoundland as early as 1622, in Virginia before 1648, and New England before 1671. However, the crop has remained little known in the U.S.

. Favas are still widely consumed in Europe, the Middle East, North Mrica, New Zealand, China and many other temperate regions. Millennia of experience have yielded an array of gastronomic preparations of the bean, including soups, patties, ponidge and wine. The recipe section gUides you through some ot these delights.

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In North America we're a little looser in our definitions than some cultures. Fava varieties especially have succumbed to the laxity of our language; the stabilizing influence of the commercial fanning industry has hardly touched them. The result is a confusing hodgepodge of tenninology, cross-bred cultivars, sloppy descriptions by seed companies and a confusing tangle for the home gardener to find a way through. Let's try to be systematic in describing the various types.

The botanical name for this legume is Vicia Jaba. Vida, the genus name, indicates it is a vetch. The species name, Jaba, represents all the Favas, Broad

• Beans, Tick, Bell, Horse, Field, Windsor, Longpod, Seville etc. They're all Fava, or Faba beans. So, Vida {aba is an edible vetch.

You'll see them referred to as V. jaba minor. V. jaba equina and V. Jaba major. In general, the flat large­seeded types (V. faba major) over 3/4" long are called Broad Beans, and are grown for human use in Europe, Latin America and Japan. The smaller, fatter, minor and equina groups, roughly 1/2" long and never over 3/4" are Horse, Bell, Tick or Field Beans, nonnally e:rown in North America and Eurooe for stock feed.

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cover crops and green manures. These are even hardier than Broad beans.

In general, larger-seeded varieties taste better. In our own taste tests we steam whole seeds, either dry or fresh, then without revealing their names ask a group of ordinary people who appreciate good food to rank them and comment on flavor, texture and any special features. Most people say that Broad Beans are sweeter and more tender while the smaller Horse bean varieties are more bitter or mealy, drier and less svveet.

yo your winter temperatures stay above 15°F, you can grow any variety overwinter but two climatic conditions would require you to seek out particular types (see next chapter for sources): 1 -- if your winter extreme lows are between 0° and 15°F and you want to make fall plantings; 2 -- if your winters regularly drop below O°F or if summer comes suddenly.

In case 1, you will need to experiment with Broad Bean varieties to find ones which will survive your winter lows, or resort to late 'winter' plantings.' If you often get below 10°F, you might want to grow an overwinter Horse bean for cover and a late winter-sown Broad bean to eat. In case 2, you will need a short­season bean that sets seed before the temperatures get too high, and you will need to plant as early as possible.

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Within the Broad Bean group there are conventional subdivisions. In Britain, Seville or Longpod types (5-8 smaller seeds per pod) are thought to be hardier and less tasty. They are grown overwinter in the southenl British Isles for an earlier spring crop. ' Windsor types, by comparison, ~ave fewer seeds (2-4 per pod, perhaps 5), better flavor and larger seeds. Seed catalogs don't always distinguish between these two groups, though the name is sometimes a hint (Giant White Windsor, Masterpiece Green Longpod).

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Cc'"paratLve 6ius, v6rlotl$. dry beans In recent years the European fresh-canning and

freezer industry· has invested in the breeding of predictably uniform plants .with medium-sized, pale­skinned seeds in .longish pods. Many varieties sold as "new" will be in this class. Be careful, they don't always taste as good as they look and though they are heavy producers they're set to a genetic alarm clock which makes them all mature together. This is fine if you're going for mechanized harvesting, but not the best for the home gardener unless you are planning to use your entire crop in a single session of canning or freezing.

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4. WHERE CAN I BUY SEEP?

U's still difficult to find Fava seed on seedracks, but more and more mail-order seed companies are stocking them, though usually only one or two cultivars. For a wider range of choice try Thompson and Morgan who in 1990/91 offered 11 varieties, or The Fava Project who stock several dozen varieties, cultivars and selections.

Thompson and Morgan The Fava Project POBox 942P.O. Box 1308

Jackson, NJ 08527 Coquille. OR 97423 (541)396-1825(201) 363-2225

Aprovecho's Fava workbegan in 1980, with . development ofa line selected for seed size, good flavor and response to the conditions in Oregqn's Willamette ­Valley. We called this 'Aprovecho Select' and released it publicly in 1988.

. In 1990, as requests for referrals piled up. we _ . decided to help fund the research by selling a specialist range of Favas. In 1990-91 we offered nineselectioris and by 1992 we sold more than thirty types including 'Guatemalan Purple' Broad beans; yellow-fleshed 'Aztec Gold' from Mexico; 'Cairo Market', a short-season small bean; and 'Bonny Lad', a dwarf 12-18" British variety, as well as a·range of the best-flavored European cultivars. Also, an unusual opportunity for amateur breeders, we sell several genetically improved but still unstable types which we ourselves are in process of selecting from. By the mid-90's we would like to see several varieties ­available for each bioregion in North America and for Fava to be a stock item on seed racks. Here are some companies offering Fava:

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nrritoria l Seeds of Change,

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Johnnys Selected Seeds Foss Hill Road Albion, ME 04910

Seeds of Change 1364 Rufina Circle, #5 Santa Fe. NM 87501

Native Seeds I SEARCH 2509 N. Campbell,#325 Tucson, AZ 85719

In canada: Salt Spring Seeds Box 33 Ganges, B.C. VOS lEO CANADA

Abundant Life Seeds P.o. Box 722 Port Townsend, WA 98368

JL Hudson, Seedsman P.O. Box 1058 Redwood City, CA 94064

Territorial Seed Company P.O. Box 157 Cottage Grove, OR 97424

William bam Seeds 279 Hwy. #8 W. Flamboro, ONT L9H 6M 1 CANADA

Many Fava varieties, including rare and heirloom types, are available through Seed Savers Exchange, a non-profit oganization which saves old time food crops from extinction (see Chapter 17, More Information).

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5. HOW SHOULD THE SOIL BE ?

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If ever a vegetable were tolerant of a large range of soil conditions, this must be the one. From heavy clay to ahnost pure sand, acid to alkaline.' swamp to desert, Favas grow in them all. However, for heaviest crops, disease-free plants and production of good quality seed, let's look at what the best conditions would be.

Though they do fix nitrogen, the nitrogen-fixing nodules don't appear in the first few weeks after planting. So a little nitrogen in the soil helps in the early stages; if it is applied later it may cause the plant to produce leaves at the expense of pods. On the other hand, being among the most efficient fIXers of atmospheric nitrogen, Favas will leave your land improved so it's sometimes worth choosing your poorest piece of land forFava production.

They will however need, adequate potash and phosphorous for seed production. I would suggest applying rock phosphate or colloidal phosphate before planting though you might use bone meal if you are prepared to support the meat industry. If you think you are low on potash, wood ash is a good source, or kelp meal.

Remember that other soil minerals are important too, especially for a crop with such heavy, seed production. Unless you're in a glaciated area, you might try addin~ rock dust or greensand.'

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What about acidity? How can you tell? Well, first of all there's a rule 'of thumb; if you live in an arid region where evaporation exceeds the rainfall, .you'll probably have' alkaline soil, a pH above 7. If rainfall e~ceeds evaporation it will be below 7, an acid soil, except over limestone or chalk bedrock. Here in Western Oregon, with 50" of rain in a cool, damp climate, our sqils are ' decidedly acid (pH 6.0 down to 4.5). Just over the Cascades, with 15" a year, most soils are usuallyaIkaline (pH 6.5 to 8.0 and above).

Favas will grow well at pH 5.5 to 7.0, will survive below and above that, but they're at their best in the range of pH 6.0. ' So, if you're in a blueberry. strawberry/potato part of thecountry add lime; if it's desert all round, add compost or mulch.' '

Tilth; Favas have an aggressive taproot which will penetrate fairly hard subsoil. A consequence of this is that you can grow them with minimum tillage,even in -quite compacted and clayey soils;' Iii Pa,cific Coast conditions, where planting happ~ns in the cold, wet season, this is a tremendous 'advantage. On heavy clay we can plant even in January by lightly skimriIingor forking-over the surface, then dibbing the seed in with a stick, when often it would be impossible to till or deep-dig until April or May.

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Can I grow them in gumbo clay? Sure you can but you will need drainage. Like most plants, they need air to feed the rootzone microorganisms, and will need deeper drainage than most beans and peas due tQ their deep-reaching taproot. On heavy clays it may help to trench your garden to 6-12" depth, at least dUring the . rainy season. Not only the Fava, but everything you growwill be grateful.

Soil Temperature; Seed will genninate as low as 35°F; soaked seeds will sprout quite cheerfully in your domestic refrigerator at 35° - 40°F. Plants will grow quite well at soil temperatures of 35° - 45°F (Phasaeolus beans, by comparison, have trouble below 600F).

What about inocuIants? Nitrogen fIXation is by colonies of bacteria which attach themselves to the plants' roots to form visible nodules with pink interiors. Those that are white inside will not fix nitrogen.

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•Some soils are lacking these bacteria, so you may

want to inoculate the seed when you plant. How will you know? If you're a fIrst-time Fava grower, if you're working soil which has suffered chemical agriculture or if you're in a zone without good quantities of native vetches, inoculant is worth a try. Special Fava inoculant is sold as a dry powder, but as it's sometimes difficult to obtain try a regular pea/bean inoculant; we've found little difference between different inoculants. Simply roll your damp seed in the powder as you plant.

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6. WHEN SHOULD THEY BE PLANTED?

Think peas. Favas work like peas, ,not like other beans. Whenever you would normally plant peas, that's the time to put your Favas in. Many modem pea varieties will produce in fairly hot weather but traditional peas are like Favas in that they have trouble setting seed above about 85°F. They are strongly frost­resistant though sensitive to high temperatures.' Let's look at planting dates given several different climates.

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(a) Pacific Coast If your lowest winter temperature is normally above 15°F, you have a choice - Fall planting for a late-spring haIVest or late winter planting for an early summer crop. Fall plantings are best in late October/November. Planting earlier than mid-October encourages chocolate-spot fungus, and plants are caught out too tall and soft if there's a hard frost in mid-winter. Ideally

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you'd like them to be 3-5" tall by December 1st to ride out the winter properly. If you expect lows between 15° and OaF, select the hardiest varieties or plant in late winter. In areas regularly dropping to below OaF, some Horse bean types may be OK but it's getting very risky, so plan on planting very early in the spring.

(b) Midwest, Plains and the "North of the South" Tricky for Favas. You need to get them through flowering before, temperatures go above about 85°F. Either plant as early as you can in late winter/spring (when the peas go in or a bit earlier), or else thiilk of starting them under cover. A polyethylene row cover will protect many varieties down to OaF. especially if you have a windy site. If you have a greenhouse it may be worthwhile to start a small number of plants in pots to be hardened off and planted out as soon as the ground has thawed. If possible, plant a short season variety ('Ipro' and 'Cairo Market'_ are both reportedly qUick to flower) and help the plants establish themselves quickly by pre-sprouting the seeds. Your limits will be set by

16

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how fast the air warms up, so another tactic is to plant them where they will be protected from afternoon sun: for instance to the Northeast of a deciduous tree, or on the East side of a building. North slopes might help but you11 be later planting there which may offset the advantage.

(c) Gulf Coast, Florida and Southeast Coast Refer to (a) above if your lowest temperature is likely to stay above OaF. Otherwise refer to (b).

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7. HOW SHOULD I CULTIVATE THEM? (d) East Coast, New England, The Maritimes Recently, wanner winters have kept lows above OaF in many areas. In those regions refer to (a). If you expect it below zero at all. refer to (b).

(e) Western Mountains and Great Basin Much of (b) applies but you may have cooler sites (North slopes. East slopes. cool air drainages) available to you. Favas will grow in many places too high or too cold for Phasaeolus dry beans. They are grown to 10.000 feet in Mexico and higher in the Andes. so try a high­altitude variety such as Aztec Gold or Red-Cheeked Peruvian.

For late-summer crops (in coolest conditions only), you can do one of the following:

(1) Plant late April to late June. (2) After the main early harvest. cur the whole

plant down to 3" and irrigate if necessary. The secondary crop will be meager. on very short stems.

(3) As the first flowers open cut the plant back to 3". The plant will sprout from the base again. Supposedly. this develops a stronger root system which resists summer heat.

Broad Windsor Dean (~ Datm'&1 size).

18

Select seed which is plump and well-filled. Avoid wrinkled skins. blotchy discoloration and beans which float in water. To speed germination -and reduce rodent problems. pre,..soak your seed overnight or 12-18 hours at room temperature. To further speed them up. rinse and drain daily until the radicle (the first little shoot that pokes out. later becoming the main root) starts to appear. Plant before it gets too long - when there is less than 1/4" of root showing. Take care not to break the radicle off, as without it the plant probably will not ' grow.

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at four inch spacing each way. then cut off 2-4 inches when the plants are 6-8 inches tall. The plants will sprout from the base and can be picked again all winter and spring if they don't freeze out. For eating beans. plant in rows or beds, at between 10 and 25 plants per square yard. A single row can be planted with a seed every 6 inches, or try a pair of rows. 6 to 12 inches apart. with a seed every 8 to 12 inches. Rows or pairs of rows should be 18" to 36" apart. Usinga bed system. seeds can be set anything from 8" to 12" apart each way. Wider spacing will entail more weeding but give slightly higher yields. per plant; so if you're short of seed. plant wide; if you want to cut down on weeding. plant closer.

Most legumes. including all cultivated peas and beans, have evolved as pioneer plants, able to colonize bare ground lacking in nitrogen where there is little

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competition from other species, Species which are unable to synthesize their own nitrogen are at a disadvantage, so legumes easily outgrow them. By contrast, in environments with adequate soil nitrogen, nitrogen-fixers compete poorly with other plants, not having an ability to tolerate competition. Favas therefore need weed-free conditions in their early stages. Plant in bare ground and keep weeded until about a foot high.

To plant, dib a hole with stick. dibble or finger. How deep? If you have damp heavy soil plant the seed so it is just cpvered; if your soil is sandy or dry. plant to about 4", In Sudan, commercial Fava sowings are made as deep as 6", Large seed in heavy soil may need to be planted hilum down. to allow the root to penetrate directly,

As plants grow, lodging (falling over) sometimes. occurs at the heavy pod-bearing stage. They may need to be staked. particularly on windy sites or if there's heavy summer rainfall. Thin stakes and twine do an adequate job.

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If lodging is chronic, or on shaded sites where plants may stretch for light, try a dwarf variety such as 'Bonny Lad' or 'The Sutton'. Another technique to strengthen the plants is to pinch out the growing tip when the plant is 6" to 8" tall, or to cut it back to 3" as it forms the first flower buds. It then bushes from the base. throwing up 3-6 shorter canes. Yield per plant is allegedly increased, but production is delayed a month or more.

Should I irrigate? Favas are deceptively drought resistant; they will survive extreme drought looking fairly healthy but will yield a poor seed crop. Mexican. studies show a doubling of seed production with irrigation. The critical time is at flowering and while the pods are small. Generally, once the pods are well­formed the plants can be dried-off. There will be enough residual soil moisture to ripen the seed well. Favas grow well in mulch. Mulches will protect your soil, especially from winter rains, though they also harbor rodents who will eat the seed, ancl slugs which eat seed or greens. Consider mulching between rows after planting, leaving a 3" space around your plant.

20 21

8. WHAT ABOUT COVER CROPS ?

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Here's what a Cover crop does. It covers; it protects ~ the ground from excess sun, heat, cold, or pounding rain: It keeps the soil alive by feeding the microorganisms that maintain biologiCal stability and create good crumb structure. In wet climates it locks up soluble nutrients. If you use yourc cover as green manure by composting or tilling it into the soil, it adds nitrogen and organic matter. Its roots penetrate the soil, opening vertical pathways for soil life to travel up and down, creating drainage channels and feeding organlc matter into the ground.

How does Fava rate as a cover crop? It depends on soil temperature. Up to 500 or 60°F, it surpasses any other nitrogen fixer; (by 50-100% Over Crimson Clover, and 5-10 times as much as Field Peas). Fava fixes 150-220 lbs of . nitrogen per acre per year. In cold soils it is the highest producer known, though at soil temperatures above 70°F it compares. poorly With sweetclover or soy.

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. Fava is unique among annual legume crops in having a stout taproot which penetrates well and persists after harvest. It also has a big seed, so grows fast in the early stages. At two months it will have fixed more nitrogen than any other crop.

Where would you use Fava for cover crops? Anywhere the winter lows stay above lOaF, thqugh some varieties will survive to -lOaF. . .

What varieties are best for cover? The smaller seeded varieties are hardier, cheaper and produce' more biomass. Any Horse, Bell, Field or Tick bean will probably do the job. Some cultivars are marginally hardier than others; your local supplier should stock the best for your area. As their nitrogen-fixing abilities become known it is easier to find Fava seed for cover cropping in local feed and garden stores. Mail order is uneconomic as you pay high shipping costs for fairly cheap seed.

You should be able to broadcast cover seed and till it in, either in fall or very early spring (see planting dates in chapter 6). For maximum nitrogen fIXation, inoculate. Fava mixes well with other non-vining cover such as rye grain, oats or annual ryegrass but scrambling covers like vetch or peas tend to pull over the stiff Fava stalks.

Till in the haulms when plants are in full flower. A garden rototiller chops them in adequately, or you could hand chop with a spade. Later the haulms get fibrous so you would need to compost them separately.

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9. HOW DO I TREAT PESTS AND DISEASES ? Black Aphids can look dreadful but don't seem to be a major problem most places. They infest the growing tip of the plant,

. usually after flowering, then spread down and out, sucking the plant's juices. Control them by developing a good ladybugDan Mcgrath once said "Farming population or pinching-out the growing tipsis the management of competition". as they appear. Because they don't usuallyLet's take a look at this tricky hatch out until early summer, earliersubject, beginning with our worst plantings of FaVas are often immune. If allfears. Most of us have been taught to else fails, spraying with soap and garlic killsthink like agribusiness -- that Bugs, them mercilessly.Birds and Beasts are Basically Bad

and should be controlled, that every Weevils can cause extreme damage; theirplant that you don't deliberately seed larvae to the roots, and adults to leaves ofis a Weed and to be eliminated. young plants. You'll see evidence of theirI worked in Mexico with a presence by scalloped bites out of the leafCakchikel Indian who taught me edges. They live on vetches, peas and Favas.something very profound. A qUiet, not Phasaeolus beans. You can control themhumble man who had worked the by rotating out of host crops for twoland all his life, he introduced seasons, or if you"re rash enough to usehimself at a ,public workshop on poisons, a dusting of rotenone over thesustainable agriculture. He stood up young plants.straight with great pride on his face. "My name is Felipe Tomas" he said, "I am a peasant from Guatemala and Chocolate Spot is a common fungus causingI love all insects." rusty brown spots on leaves. It weakens but

In your garden, as in the wider seldom kills plants. To control, avoid world, the more insects, birds, planting in the warm season and maintain snakes and frogs and the greater the good ventilation between plants.variety of plants, the more stable your garden ecology will be. In the Slugs are a problem of cool-season crops. Inlong run you'll have fewer problems. Oregon they grow to 9" long and look like aThis means leaving areas for nature, young zucchini sliding through yournot just planting "native plants", but lettuces. Thick boards laid in shady placesencouraging wild things to come and make good traps; in a small garden you canlive there, both animal and hand pick, and the beer indl;lstry wouldvegetable. Some of the wild things have you believe that a saucer full of beerwill have 'an effect on your Favas, but will intoxicate them. There's also lethaltheir depredations will be lessened stuff called "slug bait", a methaldehydeif there is a greater variety of them; ~ l-'r -_ preparation which purists, parents and petthen they tend to eat one another owners are very wary of.instead of focusing on your crops. ~, 24 ~

25

10. WHEN WILL I BE ABlE TO HARVEST?

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Most seed catalogs list "days to maturity" for each vegetable, which is a pretty meaningless measure of how long it will take you to grow a crop. As with most good things this varies within a range, depending upon your climate, when you plant, the variety you grow and how you treat them; more so in fact with cool-season crops, and particularly with Favas.

At Aprovecho Research Center, with an October 23 planting of 'Aprovecho Select', we'll be ready to eat the greens by March, whole pods by mid-May, shelled green beans· the fIrst week of June and dry beans in late July. If we protect our Favas with polyethylene cloches, everything advances a week or two. Forced drought by keeping the rain off from October to March induces early flowering and we have pods a week earlier still. A February 23 planting on the other hand (four· months later), produces shelling beans only two weeks later, at the end of June. Planting # 1 will take 225 days to harvest #2 only 105. The same seed could conceivably yield in 90 days, planted mid-April: a different variety in 80 days.

Understand your conditions and plant for an early crop, to be able to enjoy them when nothing else is available, and in cool areas, for continuity through the sununer. What joy to eat steamed green Favas with the first new potatoes when your neighbors are still waiting for the soil to warm up!

11. CAN I SAVE MY OWN SEED?

Increasingly gardeners and small farmers are returning to the practice of saving their own seed. It's very easy and perhaps of all seed crops beans are the simplest. Favas are the ideal plant to learn seed saving from. Their seeds are big enough to sort for special . characteristics without needing a lens; they breed true quite easily; they ripen well in most non-tropical climates; and in North America your neighbors are unlikely to be growing a radically different variety which could cross-breed with your own. Even if they do, Favas don't cI:"0ss readily so you won't have much chance of developing unpalatable hybrids~ To save your own seed, here's what you do.

Pick out the plants you like best. Save the best­looking pods to dry on the plant. When the pods go black. shrivel or drv UP. your seed is ready to harvest. If wet weather persists at harvest time, pick pods whenever the hilum blackens or the pod begins to shrivel. Shell out and dry completely in good ventilation and out of the sun.

Store completely dry seed in airtight containers in a cool dry dark place. Longterm viability depends on maintaining dry conditions and consistent low temperatures. The perfect combination would be

.Ziploc bags in a sealed gallon jar in a cellar or freezer. They keep a long time, as do most beans.

26 27

Why hanrest your own, rather than bUying new seed every year? First, it's cheap. Second, it's very rewarding to see the whole cycle from seed to seed, all controlled by you, not some gigantic agro-chemical company. Most important though, you can select for characteristics you like, from plants that do specially well in your own unique conditions. Here's an example.

In December 1990 temperatures in our part of Oregon dropped below zero. Most people ..who had planted Fava in the fall lost them all. But friends who had planted Aprovecho Select on a well drained soil saw a 40% survival rate. They saved the seed and now have an extra-hardy strain as all the weaker specimens had

. been culled by the weather. Similarly, you could select for plants with extra-tasty

beans, ones which grow the largest on your local soil, short plants jf you live in a windy area, or plants with beautiful flowers. In North America, we particularly need to select for Favas which can tolerate high temperatures at flowering time.

You may find that Favas self-seed in your garden. These volunteer plants are those best able to survive your unique conditions. Over several generations of selecting them you can bend their genetic composition to be better suited to the peculiarities of your microclimate. soil and techniques.

I walk my Fava trials several times through the growing season. looking for abnormal plants. The undesirables. those· which show disease, the weakest, those with fewest pods. I rogue out and burn.

Then when pods are fully developed but still green, the BEST plants are marked with colored tapes. At harvest I will take all the seed from these special plants; it will then be graded and sorted carefully, rejecting any seeds which don't match my standards. Best to me means those with best growth. most pods, most healthy overall appearance. In a·big planting I may mark 1% of all the plants; in a 50-plant batch it might be good to mark 10 or 20%. These few plants will be my top seed producers, the genetic stock I want to promote the next season.

Are there any difficulties? Could I get uncontrolled cross-breeding if I grow several varieties? What about Frankenstein's monsters that run wild over my whole garden? .

Favas, like lettuce, tomatoes or kale, breed fairly true. They don't interbreed with anything except other Favas. not with pole or snap beans for instance. .

If you grow more than one variety for seed, separate them as far as you can. They're largely self-fertile and their only pollinator is the bumble bee, so for total genetic purity you need either to keep out bumble bees or grow them further apart than a bumble bee can fly. Most home gardeners don't need that purity of seed, so if you can keep them say 100 feet apart it helps a lot.

To keep small stands breeding true, enclose the plants as soon as flowers open; use shade cloth or windowscreen cages, or cover them with spun polyester rowcovers. Deliberate cross-fertilizing is a little more complex (see lIore I~OD chapter17).

As for Frankenstein, I'm afraid not. Favas are too well-behaved.

28 29

--

12. IS THERE A COMMERCIAL MARKET ?

If you're old enough to remember the late '50's, you may recall that the Press (it wasn't called the Media then) took delight in exciting us about the wonders of the Future. I remember among all the Jet Morgan spaceship drivel one such fantasy about an unknown Chinese vegetable which, predicted the infallible Press, would in the future be a major world foodcrop. This wonder was called the Soya Bean. For once they were right.

In some ways it seems we're at that same point now with Fava. As in the case of soy, China is the world's top producer -- three million tons a year. In the US the market is growing quite fast. We're seeing small farmers cautiously planting a few acres of Favas, though ­most fresh beans in the market come from ~

smallholders and backyard gardeners. If you're thinking of selling your crop there are

several good options. Green fresh Favas are in demand at fanners markets, roadSide stalls and ethnic foodstores; there's also demand from specialty restaurants --Italian, Greek and Lebanese in particular. Last spring even Safeway stores were offering fresh Favas, all up the West Coast.

Much of the dry Fava available is imported, so clearly there's a market opportunity there, selling to ethnic groceries and restaurants. With any seed crop there is an economy of scale that favors mechanized harvesting, so small producers would do well to consider other options like selling to small seed companies like, The Fava Project. We are always on the lookout for small organic growers to raise specialty Fava seed.

In Europe there is already a giant market for fresh­frozen Favas for supermarkets. Looking ahead it seems inevitable that the U.S. will follow suit. As Japan turns increasingly to the U.S. to supply its food, there would seem to be good prospects for exporting to Japan, where Favas are a favorite snack food.

13. WHAT IS THEIR FOOD VALUE?

.. Nutritionally. food. legumes show these chara<?teristic~;

1. High protein concentration 2. Large amf,lunts of lysine 3. Small amounts of methionine and cystine 4. They are excellent protein complements to

cereal grains 5. They lower cholesterol. levels 6. They are difficult to digest due to the.

antinutrional cHemicals they contain.

Legumes are rich in protein, Fava having one of the highest concentrations. They are high in lysine, the

.amino acid lacking in cereal grains, yet are low in methionine and cystine, which grains have plenty of. Combining Fava with grain improves the protein quality of both. Studies show that the best mixture is 60-80% of grain (wheat, com rice etc.) with 20-40% of Favas.

Percentage protein (dry-matter) and percentage essential amino acid composition of that protein in milled. polished rice, faba bean. pea, lentil and chickpea.'

Item Rice Faba bean Pea Lentil Chickpea

Protein 7.3 29.0 25.7 23.0 21.8 Isoleucine 4.2 4.0 4.3 4.3 4.4 Leucine 8.2 7.1 6.8 7.6 7.5 Lysine 3.6 6.5 7.5 7.2 6.8 Methionine 2.1 0.7 0.9 0.8 1.0 Cystine 1.5 0.8 1.1 0.9 1.2 Phenylalanine 4.8 4.3 4.6 5.2 5.7 Tyrosine 3.2 3.2 2.7 3.3 2.9 Threonine 3.3 3.4 4.1 4.0 3.8 Valine 5.8 4.4 4.7 5.0 4.5

• Data adapted from Aykroyd el ai. (1982).

31 30

Chem1c8t Com1"'~ltlon of htWS!J, percen~4geJ5 •

FAO· Abdalla [31 Ali 141

Moisture 13.8 9.1-9.8 8.3-8.8 Crude protein 25.0 26.4-34.3 27.8-31.3 Starch 56.9 40.4-44.3 50.9-53.2 Fat 1.2 2.3-3.2 0.7-1.4 Ash 2.9-3.6 2.7-3.0 Crude fibre 5.1 5.0-6.9

a. FAO. Food Composition Tablt{J for Use in East Asia (19721.

Cooking legumes in water increases digestibility, improves protein quality and lowers the .effects of antinutritional factors such as tannins and enzyme

. inhibitors.

Sprouting raises the vitamin content, particularly of ascorbic acid, and reduces flatulence and tannins.

Dehulling (removing the testa or seed coat) reduces tannins; this improves digestibility yet also reduces the fibre content. Fibre lowers cholesterol. The hull can be an irritant to the intestines of small children.

Tannins reduce digestibility, especially of some amino acids. Tannins decrease with 'pre-soaking, particularly in a solution of baking soda.

Favas compare well nutritionally with most other beans. They contain more protein than Pintos, Kidney beans, Garbanzos, Limas,. peas or lentils; they have a tenth of the fat that is in soya.

In recent tests by Kapular and Gurusiddiah of free amino acids in fruit and vegetables, Fava miso was found to contain a higher total amino acid count than any other vegetable tested (see More Infonnation,' chapter17).

14. SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT FAVISM?

A curious fact about Favas: the only thing most North Americans know about them is that they are responsible for favism. "Favas?" people will ask, ."Oon't they give you some dreadful disease?"

So that you can persuade skeptical friends to try your harvest, let's assess the favism mYth. Here's a synopsis of what the National Academy of Sciences has to say.

1) Favism is very rare. A very few people, almost always males, have a genetically-carried reaction to inhaling Fava pollen or eating fresh green seeds, cooked or raw. Dry bean.s are safe. Susceptibility is highest in the Mediterranean area, particularly Sardinia. Half of one percent of Sardinians are at risk, as compared with Iranians, who eat Favas daily. among whom one in 2,000 to 5,000 is sensitive. In all the rest of the world, . susceptibility is assumedly even lower.

2) Adults recover quickly. Favism causes haemolysis and in the worst cases haemoglobinuria and jaundice..... "usually self-limiting in adults....followed by complete spontaneous recovery". In other words, you could feel pretty ill for a day or two but it goes away as soon as you stop eating them. Among the few sufferers, the worst cases are among children1-5 years old, among whom some deaths were recorded, in early 1900..... "with the advent of blood-transfusion therapy however, the mortality rates have been greatly reduced."

3) Favism isn't seen to be a problem even where people eat the beans daily and have the strongest reactions. "It is noteworthy that in spite of such a high daily consumption, cases of favism reported from Egypt are so few as to find little mention in Egyptian medical literature." (infonnation from Toxicants Occurring Naturally in Foods, Second Edition, 1973, National Academy of Sciences.)

Like any new food, don't eat too much at the first sitting; if your kids don't like them, don't force them, listen to their wisdom. Having eaten Favas for fIfty years and worked professionallyon them for twelve I have yet to personally encounter a case of favism; I have never heard of one, nor do I know anyone who has. It must be extremely uncommon. 32 33

15. OONT THEY CAUSE GAS ?

Of course they cause gas, all beans do. In fact, most vegetables are likely to, but it doesn't need to be a catastrophe. Favas actually cause a lot less gas than soy.'" beans, which contain about five times as much of the chemicals which cause flatulence. Here are a few tips on the genotypic and phenotypic response known as . fartism.

Beans cause gas chiefly if they are undercooked. Dry beans cook more thoroughly if they are pre-soaked. Soaking in solutions of salts such as baking soda accelerates cooking and reduces· fartism.

Dry Favas cook best if they are soaked overnight in a bakin~ soda solution. One teaspoonful in each half gallon of water should do it. Drain and replace with clean water before cooking. A further refinement is to soak, drain and sprout the beans before cooking, which will reduce fartism even further.

If you suffer gas problems, make sure" beans of any type are well cooked; don't eqt huge quantities on an empty stomach and don't eat them late at night.

34

16. HOW 00 I PREPARE THEM?

SOAKED .3 DAYS DRyaEAN

If you enjoy cooking with spinach, fresh peas, green beans and dry beans, you'll love Favas because they work like all four. You can use the young greens like spinach in quiches, lasagna, omelettes or salads; the immature pods can be cooked like string beans; shell out sweet fresh Favas and use like peas, raw, marinated and cooked; fmally use· dry storage beans for soups, stews, chili and refries. In addition, dry Favas make the best falafel, hummus and deep-fried snacks; they can be sprouted for burgers, cracked as a breakfast cereal and ground into high-protein flour.

Let's begin with the Greens. Either grow a cover crop of any variety (Horse beans, TIck beans or Broad beans work eqtially well) and cut them as they grow, or wait till your plants have five flower whorls then pinch out the tops. Pinching out controls black aphids and stimulates better fruiting. The greens of most varieties taste similar, like Fava-flavored chard. Use them fresh; like most leafy salads they don't store well. Prepare them as you would spinach. My own favorite is Fava greens marinated in oil and salt, with sorrel chopped very fme.

Immature pods should be used before strings develop in them. Most varieties taste good .though some people find them a little bitter. I'm personally not fond of hairy food (there's wooly stuff inside the pod) so prefer to wait 'til they mature~ Remember, if you eat all your immature pods there will be no harvest of mature beans. The big advantage of eating whole . pods is their earliness -- in our region they're two months ahead of Phasaeolus string beans. We're eating·

35

THE DEVELOPING FAVA PI-RNT 7, ~

whole pod Yavas by mid-May when our neighbors are still thinking about planting early wax beans. Best reciPe, from Wales, my homeland: Whole Broad Beans in Cheese Sauce (Ffeuen gyda Saws caws). Simply steam the POds until they're soft, pour cheese sauce over; a Uttle mustard in the sauce helps a lot.

Now for ShelleclGreen FaY8S. Uke peas and sweet com, Favas convert sugars to starch rapidly after picking, so they'll be at their best if you can plan to harvest iImnediately before cooking. If you can't grow your own, the local fanners market is the best bet. Store-bought beans are a distant third choice. -Harvest when the pods are turgid, stiff and obviously full, or a day or two before. If you're new to Favas crack off the ends of a few pods and sample the seeds raw, leaving the pod on the plant. You will rapidly get the hang of what you're looking for.

For shelling out, plant the big-seeded varieties (the dry seed you plant should be at most 20 to the ounce and choice varieties like Aprovecho Select should show no more than 16). Unlike apples pr raspberries, the bigger the fruit the sweeter it probably tastes. Fresh Aprovecho Select are truly enormous; at up to a quarter of an ounce each and an inch and a half long, a dozen make a reasonable serving.

Fresh from the garden it's hard to improve on Steamed Green Favas, cooked until soft with perhaps a little butter and black pepper~ When I was growing up

36

FAVA PLANT. APPRoxI!'1AT/E.LY SIX w££x~ OLD

/11'" _ in the mountains of North Wales, the first Broad beans would come in the same time as the first garden potatoes. There's little in this world so delicious as fresh-shelled Favas with fresh-dug spuds, plain boiled or steamed. As a boy, before we ever heard of avocados or artichokes, when all vegetables were either canned or in season, I remember the sharp anticipation of waiting each spring for that frrst meal of New-Spuds­with-Broad:-Beans.

If you find the skins too chewy, cook for ten minutes, slip off the skins, then cook again until soft. Vegetarians don't get much chewy food, sO I prefer to eat them whole, savoring that chewiness.

At the end of the season, you might try tI:te last green Favas with squash, tomatoes, green pepper, pole beans and basil in a summer stew. In Mexico they come marinated in oil, lime juice, cilantro, chopped onions and of course; chili pepper. Scandinavians cook them tender, then bake them in egg custard. In Peru, it's Fava and potato soup.

Finally, Dry Favas. Ifyou slightly overplant for your green Fava needs, in most climates you will be able to halVest the dry surplus merely by leaving the pods on the plants to mature. If you buy dry Fava, remember the bigger ones usually taste better; smaller than a nickel

37

PLOWERS D£V~LOJ> DV/uNG­TH£" IIIIRD MONTH

are probably Horse beans, and will taste like something a horse produced. . . .

Allover the temperate world, dry Favas are used for an astonishing array of dishes from so'Ups and stews, hot and cold drinks and deep-fried street snacks to patties and pancakes. Favas make a higher protein tofu than, soya. can be used for tempeh. milk substitute and miso. Both falafel and hwnmus were originally made from . Favas.

. As with any dried bean. cooking is accelerated by soaking or sprouting. particularly by soaking in a solution of baking soda. A teaspoon of baking soda to soak a pound of beans cuts cooking time from over two hours to about 35 minutes. Discard the soaking water; . with it will flow away much of the Famous Fava Flatulence. To sprout. soak overnight then rinse daily for about four days. And to remove the skins from dry Favas, boil for two minutes then allow to sit in hot water for 40 minutes, cool and slide their jackets off.

Here's a simple recipe for delicious hummus (Fununus?). Cook beans 'til soft. then blend with oil, black pepper, raw garlic. salt. thyme. ground cumin and lemon juice. Make it as thick as your blender will stand it. to spread on bread, or a little thinner for a pour-on sauce for rice or cous-cous.

38

RECIPES

This section was researched and prepared by Denise Ackert. The calligraphy is her original work from the first edition of 'A Gardeners Guide to Fava Beans'. As you can see, Favas are eaten all over the world. Not· surprisingly, many of the most delicious traditional dishes are from the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

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C.1tD~"d"" Va. '7IIId;'I&:,",- t"o-l.r'9,. onion in V-I c.~p ol':vt1 oil: un-lLl .,..rn.f j add I e10ve minc.ea .9zsrlC:c. (or 'T"lorc») I c.rro-l)'1'•~},rfaUa an4 :w.~r -1:0 cover. ?"""I'rn.~r ';for I~ -.:10 m;nu..-tl!~.

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46

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades by Steve Solomon (Sasquatch Books, Seattle, 1989, 338 pages, about $15) is the best bioregional gardening book I have ever seen. It covers Favas in several contexts, giving techniques and reasons for green manures, with planting dates and varieties for dozens of vegetable crops. ,Highly recommended.

For a gardening book with a thorough, illustrated section on growing Favas, trust the British. Seddon and Radecka's Your Kitchen Garden (Simon and Schuster, 1978, 240 pages, about $15) is lavishly illustrated, impeccably written, covers every possible British fruit and veg.

For the scientific: Hebblethwaite (ed) The Faba Bean: a Basis for Improvement (London, ButteIWorths, 1983, hardback, expensive.) If you can get past the supercilious title and the price, here's a mine of very technical infonnation, though most of it is about animal feedstock.

Growing and Using Fava Beans (Canadian Dept. of Ag., Publication 1540, 1975) is just what it says.

On saving seed: Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth (Seed Savers Exchange, 1991, 222 pages, $20) is a very thorough and well-written gUide to home processing of most vegetable seeds. From SSE, RR3 Box 239, Decorah, Iowa.

A humbler book I really like is Peter Donelan's Growing to Seed (Ecology Action, Willits, CA, 1976)

On nutritional content: The 20 Amino Acids are Primary Human Food by Alan Kapuler and S. Gurusiddiah in Peace Seeds Research Journal 1991 from Peace Seeds, 2385 SE Thompson, Corvallis, OR 97333, $15.00, postpaid.

On Nitrogen fixation in various cover crops see Alternative'Agriculture (National Academy Press, 1989) pages 148- 149.

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