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BARTENDERS V SOMMELIERS

ROCK ON!WHAT DO YOU GET WHEN YOU CROSS A SOMMELIER WITH A BARTENDER? CLINTON CAWOOD SITS IN ON THE TRAINING DAYS FOR THIS YEAR’S BARTENDERS V SOMMELIERS COMPETITION TO FIND

OUT, SIDE-STEPPING WHAT WOULD INEVITABLY HAVE BEEN A SUB-STANDARD JOKE…ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY GAËLLE LAFOREST

If you’re going to walk a mile in an on-trade compatriot’s shoes, try to ensure it’s not after a double shift. This is, metaphorically, what we ask a bartender and sommelier team to do every year, training them in the most challenging and obscure aspects of each others’ jobs before pitting them against each other in a battle to the death... Well, kinda.

After six years of this ultimate on-trade contest, the scores are tied, and there’s everything to play for. For the first time this

year each team has one member returning for a second tour of duty – more experienced, bearing more of a grudge, and more determined to bring the trophy home, even if it has spent six months under reigning champion Gus Gluck’s bed.

Both teams recently met their coaches for a day of intensive training in advance of the challenge ahead: a gruelling day of head-to-head competition before heading to Imbibe Live in June for the nail-biting final on Centre Stage. >>

‘THIS IS MY PISSED-OFF FACE,

IF YOU WERE WONDERING’

SEAMUS SHARKEY

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Igot into this business to avoid waking up this early,’ growls sommelier coach Russell Burgess, just before his team start to arrive at his bar, Loves Company. Stereotypes are fully intact this morning it seems, as each arrives well on time except for one – Debbie Smith from 21212, who’s on a train from Edinburgh and has been awake longer than anyone else present.

Burgess kicks things off with a rousing pep talk, opening with a succinct CV. ‘I’ve been bartending since I was 17, so I know everything there is to know,’ he says. ‘Actually, that’s not true at all…’

He does, however, mean business. ‘I’m the GM here, and we’re open seven days a week from midday, so come and practise. I insist upon it,’ he says. ‘Ultimately, this is about having fun, and getting responsibly drunk. To victory!’ he concludes, before giving the fl oor to Haig Club brand ambassador David Sinclair.

Leading the blindHe’s there to guide the sommeliers through their fi rst challenge – a blind tasting of six whiskies. Given his current role, not to

mention his past experience at Gleneagles, Sinclair is the right man for the job.

He kicks off with Haig Club, not only because he’s the brand ambassador, but because the teams will be encountering this both in the blind tasting and in the cocktail creation round. It’s also a pretty light whisky compared to the other fi ve, so not a bad choice to ease them in.

‘Haig is a single-grain whisky produced in a column still, so very different from most,’ explains Sinclair. ‘It’s a much more modern way of producing whisky. I mean, that method started in 1824, which is modern in terms of whisky production.’

The sommeliers get their noses into their glasses, taking copious notes as Sinclair continues. ‘The new-make character from Cameronbridge [where Haig is made] is slightly citrus,’ he says – it’s something to

bear in mind for the cocktail round.‘On to the next, and the fi rst of the

single malts, the brand new Singleton of Dufftown Spey Cascade, a signifi cantly darker whisky than Haig Club. Sinclair moves swiftly onto a pair of whiskies from Mortlach, followed by Johnnie Walker Platinum, during which Smith arrives from Scotland – appropriately. She goes

straight into a punchy question about the addition of caramel in whisky, before making some highly informed observations about the fi nal dram, the new Talisker Skye.

But how will they pick out all six in the blind tasting? ‘It’s fi ne,’ says Bread Street Kitchen’s Ram

Chhetri. ‘We can taste them every day.’‘Three times a day,’ suggests Burgess.But Sketch’s Sarah Riddle – back for the

second year running – is not reassured. ‘It’s pretty diffi cult, I’m not gonna lie,’ she says.

Sinclair has a few more pointers for the cocktail round with Haig Club, suggesting the somms remember certain classics. ‘One of my favourite ways to use it is replacing gin in a Negroni. Or just on the rocks with some bitters and a twist,’ he suggests.

SOMMELIERSThe Nuts (New Ultimate Terrifi c Sommeliers)

CAPTAIN: Seamus Sharkey, Restaurant Story, LondonRam Chhetri, Bread Street Kitchen, London

Lukas Nikanorovas, New Street Grill, LondonSarah Riddle, Sketch, London

Debbie Smith, 21212, EdinburghCOACH: Russell Burgess, Loves Company, London

‘IT’S ABOUT BEING LOUD AND BRASH, BECAUSE THAT’S

WHAT BARTENDERS ARE’ RUSSELL BURGESS

AFTER A LIGHT BREAKFAST, OUR TEAM WERE READY FOR ACTION

RAM CHHETRI SOARS LIKE AN EAGLE

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BARTENDERS V SOMMELIERS

To those about to shakeBut that’s enough sitting around and shooting the breeze. It’s time for these sommeliers to get behind the stick and make some drinks. ‘This is great,’ says a grinning Chhetri. ‘Reminding myself of why I didn’t become a bartender…’

First priority for Burgess is to ensure his somms display enough of that trademark bartender attitude while they’re making the required classics – either a Tanqueray No. Ten Aviation or a Bulleit Old Fashioned. ‘When I make drinks I’ve got lots of stories to tell, like bartending for famous people, for example. You don’t. But you can just

make them up. It’s called lying,’ he says. And he’s not finished. ‘Remember you’ll be in front of a crowd, so we want to see a little bit of showing off. It’s about being loud and brash, because that’s what bartenders are,’ he adds, while putting the finishing touches to his Aviation.

Chhetri has a go, looking effortlessly capable, after which Riddle makes a cocktail that she’s so excited about she entirely forgets to clean her station. ‘Don’t worry, the commis is coming to clean,’ quips Restaurant Story’s Seamus Sharkey on his way to make his own. ‘It’s weird holding the bottle by the neck,’ he says,

identifying a little-documented difference between the worlds of bartending and sommelierie. ‘It’s making me feel sick.’

New Street Grill’s Lukas Nikanorovas has little difficulty when he gets behind the bar. ‘That’s literally one of the first times I’ve shaken anything, but I do live with a bartender,’ he explains.

Burgess has some thoughts on the Old Fashioned, the second classic. ‘There’s no correct way to make one, but there are lots of wrong ways.’ And how long should it take to make? ‘Never less than three minutes, never more than too long,’ he says.

Need for speedThe somms are in good hands when it comes to the speed round, with one of the founders of speed bartending competition Rematch Beeyatch as their coach. Simpler than Rematch, they’ll need to bash out a Ypióca Caipirinha, a Zacapa 23 Daiquiri and a Ketel One Martini, as well as free-pour measures of a wine and a spirit.

‘You have two hands – you should be doing two things at a time,’ says Burgess, making that sound much easier than it is.

And yet Smith is doing wonderfully. That is, until she goes for an advanced flourish – hitting the shaker with her elbow to separate the two parts – and loses the entire shaker. ‘Not only did I drop it, I’m going to have a bruise too,’ she laments.

Burgess moves onto the Haig Club cocktail creation round, whipping up a makeshift mystery box consisting of red pepper, cinnamon, agave syrup, balsamic vinegar and lemon juice – more salad dressing than mystery box.

Riddle gives it a valiant attempt, muddling the red pepper and adding balsamic vinegar. But there’s a team signature move emerging as she also sends

The HAIG CLUB word and associated logos are trade marks ©Diageo Brands B.V. 2015. Please Drink Responsibly.

B A R T E N D E R S O R S O M M E L I E R S :

W H O W I L L R A I S E T H E B A R ?

DIA_13019 Bartenders v Sommeliers Haig Banner (170mm x 40mm).indd 1 21/04/2015 17:45

‘THAT’S LITERALLY ONE OF THE FIRST TIMES I’VE SHAKEN ANYTHING’ LUKAS NIKANOROVAS

DEBBIE SMITH, SCOURGE OF GLASSWARE EVERYWHERE

SADLY SARAH FELL ASLEEP IN MID-AVIATION

BY GLASS FOUR SEAMUS

WAS FEELING THE BURN

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her shaker fl ying. All’s not lost, and the salvaged liquid is declared ‘not half bad’ by Riddle herself. Her cocktail names – Rimmer or The Grim Rimmer – are fi rmly rejected and replaced by Burgess’ suggestion: Bend It Like Balsamic.

Meanwhile, Sharkey’s made a cocktail that he rather understatedly describes as ‘cinnamon heavy’.

‘You can kind of chew it,’ says Smith.‘I’ve just realised that me and cinnamon

aren’t friends any more. I dissolve into groups way better than this guy does,’ says a hurt-sounding Sharkey.

His cocktail-creating prowess doesn’t prevent him being named team captain, largely due to his experience with magnum bottles – the magnum pour being the captain’s responsibility. He’ll need to pour a bottle of Bisol Crede Prosecco with one hand, into 16 glasses, without returning to any glass and with no leftover wine.

Sharkey reveals his competitive side when he’s left with an extra glass worth of wine at the end. ‘This is my pissed off face, if you were wondering,’ he snaps.

The champagne cascade is next, and the team sets about balancing fi ve coupes on top of one another. ‘I’ll probably fail, so I’ll try fi rst,’ says Smith, prophetically as it turns out, as the tower collapses.

As the spilt champagne is mopped off the fl oor, and the day draws to a close, Burgess ponders what it’s all for. ‘What’s the prize, again?’ he asks. ‘An all-expenses-paid trip to Imbibe HQ?’

We’ll see about that. Maybe the shakers will be less slippy in the competition…

If the sommelier team’s punctuality was consistent with its reputation, the bartender team’s is not. Luke Haines from Aviator Bar surveys the room sceptically. ‘We’re on time, sober and awake… We’re doomed,’ he laments.

‘You’ve got a reputation to uphold,’ agrees Haig Club’s Sinclair, who’s back to run the bartenders through the blind tasting.

Someone is on bartender time at least, and that’s returning competitor Michele Mariotti from American Bar at The Savoy. ‘I was on the losing team last year,’ he announces by way of introduction when he does arrive.

‘There’s no room for failure,’ says coach Luigi Buonanno of Bianco43, where today’s training is being held. ‘At least the talking part shouldn’t be a problem for you. You’re bartenders. You like to talk,’ he says.

However when Sinclair gets down to the six whiskies at hand, a studious silence descends, aside from a muttered ‘this is a good breakfast…’ from Daniele Gentili of Demon, Wise and Partners.

Sinclair concludes the tasting, like the previous day, with some pointers on strategy. ‘I’d identify the Haig Club fi rst, then the Talisker,’ he says. ‘The challenge is separating the Singleton and the two Mortlachs,’ says Mariotti.

Sinclair has a few more tips for the cocktail creation round. ‘You win a comp

by nailing the brief,’ he says. ‘I’ve seen the comp at Imbibe Live – you can be as out-there as you want.’

Time for wineWith that it’s over to Buonanno for some vinous education and, like coach Burgess, he’s got advice on faking it. ‘You know how it works in France? It’s never a bad vintage. Just good, very good and excellent.’

He gets down to basics, with a crash course in the Court of Master Sommeliers guidelines for wine service. ‘I’ve never

been taught to open a bottle of wine properly,’ admits Dandelyan’s Alix Nardella.

‘The only thing I’m fearful of is the pronunciation of

wine names,’ says Pattern’s Sophie Duke. ‘Don’t worry,’ says Buonanno. ‘I’m Italian – can you imagine what it’s like for me?’

Everyone has a go, and Duke’s paranoia becomes more pronounced – until it’s Mariotti’s turn, faced with a bottle of Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Dolomiti 2013. ‘I can’t believe I got the bottle of Italian wine and the name is unpronounceable!’

‘WE’RE ON TIME, SOBER AND AWAKE...

WE’RE DOOMED’ LUKE HAINES

salvaged liquid is declared ‘not half bad’

Meanwhile, Sharkey’s made a cocktail that he rather understatedly describes as

the previous day, with some pointers on strategy. ‘I’d identify the Haig Club fi rst, then the Talisker,’ he says. ‘The challenge is separating the Singleton and the two Mortlachs,’ says Mariotti.

cocktail creation round. ‘You win a comp by nailing the brief,’ he says. ‘I’ve seen the by nailing the brief,’ he says. ‘I’ve seen the

BARTENDERSCocktail Ninjas

CAPTAIN: Michele Mariotti, American Bar at The Savoy, LondonSophie Duke, Patterns, Brighton

Daniele Gentili, Demon, Wise and Partners, LondonLuke Haines, Aviator Bar, BristolAlix Nardella, Dandelyan, London

COACH: Luigi Buonanno, Bianco43, London

OK. ONE’S A WHISKY AND THE OTHER IS... A WHISKY!

THAT SOUND? BRUCE LEE

SPINNING IN HIS GRAVE

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BARTENDERS V SOMMELIERS

But this challenge isn’t just about enunciating wine names and opening bottles. There’s the expectation of service, and some chat to go with it. ‘I’d talk fi rst,’ says Buonanno. ‘Attack is the best form of defence. Run the chat so you’re not asked questions.’

Throughout this Mariotti has been making it clear he’s not particularly into the idea of losing for a second year in a row. ‘What we really need to do this year is actually read the rules…’ He’s intent on bringing his past experience to bear, offering helpful tips. ‘You need to tick the boxes,’ he says. ‘It’s not about how you do it, as long as you tick them. For example it’s important that you wipe the bottle, not what you wipe it with.’ Er, what?

With the samples poured, Buonanno proceeds to the tasting, running his team through the characteristics of each grape and region. He starts with the Italian Pinot Grigio, followed by a Mount Langhi Riesling with an aroma that reminds Buonanno of a rubber dinghy from childhood, much to Haines’ amusement.

A full-bodied Chardonnay from South African producer Journey’s End is next, before it’s time for the reds. There’s a Burgundy in the form of a Vougeot from Roux Père et Fils, alongside a Cornas from Paul Jaboulet and, to fi nish, a Coonawarra Shiraz from Wynns.

Buonanno has been providing food pairing suggestions – the teams will be required to make recommendations in the

food-matching round – and now he puts his money where his mouth is, as a steady stream of dishes begins to emerge from the kitchen.

One to lead themLunch seems as good a time as any to discuss the captaincy of this bartender team. ‘Does anyone here work with magnums?’ asks Mariotti. ‘I carry one to work, but it’s a rough area,’ Haines retorts.

For reasons of experience, Mariotti is named this year’s bartender captain. They’ll need a name though. ‘It needs to be something aggressive…’ he says. The group settles on Cocktail Ninjas.

The newly-named ninjas retire to the bar, where Mariotti has his fi rst attempt at the magnum pour. The bottle proves too heavy for him this time. He overpours by a whole glass – and he’s left feeling the physical effects. ‘I won’t be able to use this hand for the rest of my life!’ he says.

When it comes to the champagne cascade, Gentili volunteers by saying: ‘I’ve never done one of these…’ And he makes it look easy, capably pouring and dismantling a stack of fi ve coupes.

‘I’ve always wanted to do this. It’s so rock ‘n’ roll,’ says Haines as he steps up. He’s

convinced to try the never-attempted six-coupette cascade. Stepping onto a box to reach the top, he starts pouring.

‘If it breaks, it breaks. At least we gave it a try,’ says Mariotti, every bit the encouraging captain.

Haines pours until the end of the bottle. It’s looking good. He puts the bottle down on the bar with a bit too much force and…

‘At least we tried,’ sighs Mariotti.

Many thanks to Loves Company and Bianco43 for hosting the training sessions and for all their help. Thanks also to Russell Burgess, Luigi Buonanno, David Sinclair, Gus Gluck and Kate Pass for their help and expertise. And fi nally thanks to our spirits sponsor Haig Club and to Bibendum for the wine.

magnums?’ asks Mariotti. ‘I carry one to work, but it’s a rough area,’ Haines retorts.

to Bibendum for the wine.

They’ll need a name though. ‘It needs to be something aggressive…’ he says. The

bar, where Mariotti has his fi rst attempt

too heavy for him this time. He overpours by a whole glass – and he’s left feeling the physical effects. ‘I won’t be able to use this

cascade, Gentili volunteers by saying: ‘I’ve never done one of these…’ And he makes it look easy, capably pouring and dismantling

‘I’ve always wanted to do this. It’s so rock ‘n’ roll,’ says Haines as he steps up. He’s

work, but it’s a rough area,’ Haines retorts.

They’ll need a name though. ‘It needs to

too heavy for him this time. He overpours by a whole glass – and he’s left feeling the physical effects. ‘I won’t be able to use this

cascade, Gentili volunteers by saying: ‘I’ve never done one of these…’ And he makes it look easy, capably pouring and dismantling

‘I’ve always wanted to do this. It’s so rock

to Bibendum for the wine.

BLIND TASTINGHow well would you have fared if you’d

been faced with this challenge?

WinesAlois Lageder Pinot Grigio Dolomiti 2013

Domaine Roux Père et Fils Vougeot Premier Cru ‘Les Petits Vougeot’ 2012

Journey’s End Destination Chardonnay 2013 Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Riesling 2013

Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas ‘Les Grandes Terrasses’ 2010

Wynns Black Label Shiraz 2010

SpiritsHaig Club

Johnnie Walker Platinum LabelMortlach Rare Old

Mortlach 18 year oldSingleton of Du� town Spey Cascade

Talisker Skye

‘WHAT WE REALLY NEED TO DO THIS YEAR IS ACTUALLY READ THE RULES...’ MICHELE MARIOTTI

FRANKLY, YOU CAN SUPPLY YOUR OWN CAPTION FOR THIS

CAPTAIN AHAB AND THE TOWER OF CHAMPAGNE

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