From The Editor –

Just back from vacation, we are ready to stay home for a

summer of outdoor activities, BBQ’s, and Jim’s birthday

party! He is from Kentucky, so our first summer activity,

of course, will be the Kentucky Derby. Always held the

first Saturday of the month, it is so much fun to dust off

my beautiful Mint Julep cups and have a toast to the

winner.

However, by the time you read this, the 2015 Derby will

be history; and, hopefully, Duchess Kate and Prince

William will have had their second child. Personally, I

am hoping for a girl, as it has been a long time since we

have witnessed a royal baby girl’s wardrobe.

In the May issue we continue with our adventure into the

world of dolls with Louise Hedrick. This month we

begin to see the connection of the French Handsewing

methods used today, to the doll industry. We have long

known that it was the French nuns that developed and

perpetuated the lovely techniques that we now use in

French HAND Sewn garments.

Annabelle continues to introduce Ping to some unique

American experiences, and we continue to be entertained

by their adventures. Not too surprising they were off the

races recently, so enjoy reading about their trip. Hoping

you enjoy this issue and all its tidbits of information and

trivia…till next month –

Happy stitching…

Sheila

Andrew Hancock for The New York Times

Kentucky Derby Fun Facts American Pharaoh wins the 141th running of

the Kentucky Derby on May 2, 2015 The traditional drink of the Derby is the mint

julep – over 100,000 are consumed at the race each year.

The Kentucky Derby trophy weighs 3-1/2 pounds compared to the Rose blanket (made of

over 400 roses) which weighs over 40 pounds. The fastest Derby run was by Secretariat in

1973 at 1:59:40 minutes.

Bear in Mind An electronic newsletter from Bear Threads Ltd. Volume 7 – Issue 5 May 2015

FRENCH FASHIONS

PART II

“THE GOLDEN AGE”

By Louise Hedrick

In the beginning of the third Empire in France, the doll industry was a ‘studio’ or ‘cottage’ industry. With commercial growth expanding in France and international visitors putting Paris on their itinerary, there was a need to organize and expand these small companies. Patents on the dolls were issued, fabrics were made available from the great silk factories, and the doll companies worked to meet the demand. Young women learned to handsew with great skill in the French convents. Picture #1 shows a ‘sample’ card, one of several found about 20 years ago in a convent in northern France. These sample cards were created by the nuns to instruct their students. This example shows thirteen decorative stitches on cotton mousseline, hem stitching and handmade lace edging. Upon completion of their education, many of these young ladies returned to Paris and were employed by the doll companies to create the magnificent clothing for the French Fashions. Magazines were introduced to illustrate the latest styles of doll dresses and the patterns to make them. These lady fashion dolls could be sold wearing a

simple chemise, or for up to ten times that amount, elaborately costumed in the latest fashions of the day. One of the most popular of these magazines was La Poupee Modele, a monthly work devoted to the French Fashion ‘Lily’ featuring stories, projects, clothing patterns for the doll, as well as advice for the young ladies of Paris. Picture #2 shows a pattern page from an 1864 copy of this magazine. The author, Mlle Lavallee-Peronne operated an exclusive shop that sold the Lily doll and her fabulous wardrobes and accessories. She also designed popular children’s clothing. Picture #3 is an antique Lily fashion doll, 45cm (17-5/8”) wearing a ballgown of 1860’s handpainted cotton tulle over silk taffeta embellished with velvet ribbon and a heavy fringe of beads outlining the neckline ruffle.

Two other examples of the lady dolls of this period are shown in pictures #4 and #5. The fourth picture is a 19” French Fashion from the well-known Bru factory. She has a bisque head, glass eyes, and bisque shoulder plate as well as a totally articulated wood body. Her gown is hand-stitched using a silk faille and silk/wool from the 1860’s.

The fifth picture is a 16” fashion dating from the early 1870’s and made by the firm Francois Gaultier. Her bisque head and shoulder plate rest on a ‘gesland’ body, a stockinette type fabric with stuffing and a jointed wire frame that allows her to be posed at will. Her lower arms, hands and feet are also bisque. Her silk taffeta and lace gown was machine stitched. By this time the sewing machine was in common use in France.

About the Author – Louise Hedrick

Louise Hedrick is a renowned antique doll expert,

author, teacher and costume designer, specializing

in French fashion, bebes and all-bisque dolls. She

is very active in doll organizations, including the

International Guild of Miniature Artisans (IGMA),

the United Federation of Dolls Clubs (UFDC) and

travels extensively throughout the United States

teaching both the historical and technical aspects

of doll costuming. She is also a Doll Artisan

Guild (DAG) Guest Instructor, teaching seminars

on creating authentic antique doll costumes.

Louise contributed all the patterns for Barbara

Hilliker’s 2002 book, Bleuette, the Doll and Her

Wardrobe, and in 2005 was the co-author of

Bleutte Clothing Patterns, 1905-1916. Her latest

book is A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe,

Patterns 1864-1874. She also shares her

knowledge and expertise in the articles she writes

for publications such as Doll News and Dolls

Beautiful.

TRIVIA

What Do Horse Racing and American

Kitchens Have in Common?

Off to The Races! Annabelle and Ping at Churchill Downs

Annabelle’s family has close friends that moved to Kentucky a few years ago, so it was not surprising that an invitation arrived for Annabelle’s family, along with Ping, to visit for the week of Kentucky Derby. The family lives in a suburb of Louisville called Anchorage. They have a daughter, Hannah, who is a couple of years younger than Annabelle, and a son, Tad, just a year older. The Friday evening before the races, Tad was hosting a big party at the Owl Creek Country Club in Anchorage. Annabelle and Ping were so excited to be included and were ‘chomping at the bit’ (sorry, I just could not resist!) with excitement.

The big day arrived and Annabelle and Ping could not wait to don their new Kentucky Derby outfits for the evening. One of the entertaining events of the evening was a ‘mock’ Derby Race which Annabelle and Ping won as ‘owner’ and ‘trainer’. It was a fun game and here they are pictured as winners! Annabelle and Ping were so glad to have had Tad and Hannah introduce them to their friends and the world of horse racing. In the photograph, Annabelle is radiant in her Swiss Apple Green Faille suit with Bearissima heirloom blouse. The outfit is complemented with a blue velvet picot edged ribbon sash and lovely straw hat adorned with flowers. Ping is the picture of May flowers as well, with her Swiss Bearlin dress with Bearlin embroidered ruffled skirt. Her jacket is yellow Bearlin with white piping. Her ensemble is finished with an astonishing hat that every British Lady would surely envy for Ascot! Well, Lori and Tami – your couture talents have shown again! Thank You, Both!

FYI

“Right or Wrong” Which Is The Right Side?

Poor quality leaves nothing to the imagination when

discerning the correct side of any lace, trim or fabric.

However, with very fine, high quality trims and

fabrics you must be more careful.

In actuality, some of our lovely fabrics, especially

piques, may be used with either side as the outer side.

One particular fabric, our Jacquard Pique, is often

used on both sides. It comes in three patterns, a

rosebud, bow and floral pattern. The sewer simply

decides which they prefer to dominate, the white or

color.

Embroideries, however, are stitched on a loom that is

very much like a vertical sewing machine. There are 2

threads stitching, as a home sewing machine would,

with a top thread and bottom thread. On the Swiss

embroidery looms, these threads come together on

the back side of the design, forming a ‘vein’ for each

part of the design. For example, if the design is a

flower with a stem and leaves, the backside of each

petal of the flower, each leaf, and the stem would each

have their own ‘vein’ Note: THIS IS NOT TRUE FOR

HANDLOOMED EMBROIDERIES WHICH ARE

STITCHED ON A DIFFERENT TYPE OF MACHINE

ENTIRELY!

Laces are a bit different. On ten, twelve, and fourteen

point laces – this would be your Valencienne and

‘round’ thread laces – the back side is the side that,

when pulled, the gathering thread dominates. In other

words, if the gathering thread is more distinguished

on one side rather that the other, THAT is the wrong

side.

And now you know!

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Answer to Trivia:

In 1924 William Monroe Wright, a successful entrepreneur and owner of Calumet Baking Powder, established Calumet Farm on a beautiful Lexington, Kentucky property, initially to breed and race Standardbred horses. Two of their most famous horses were Whirlaway and Citation, who were both Triple Crown winners.

Sewing for Dolls

Tip #5

You’ll find that by using

a slow speed and a short

stitch length, the small

curves on the doll

clothes will be easier to

sew and smoother at the

end.