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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abel Castro, Adelle Fischer, Doerte Bieler, Eric Moyet, Georg Caspary, John Brömstrup, John McCabe, Jonathan Harris, Krishna Gagne, Leire Orduna, Leon Liebenberg, Luke Aldred, Mats Bleikelia, Mike Custance, Paula Boer, Richard Cogswell, Samuel Folkard, Simon Barker, Stef Russell, Thomas Sollacher
AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondThanks to Will Gourlay for getting the ball rolling and for Glenn van der Knijff for so ably picking it up and running with it. Also kudos to a superb group of fellow authors who did the hard work on the ground across Africa.
Kate ArmstrongA special thanks to the Raw family and Katie McCarthy for their kindness and ongoing help and to fellow writer, Tom Spurling, for doing the groundwork in Lesotho. Huge thanks to Simon Richmond, Glenn van der Knijff, Will Gourlay, David Carroll and fellow authors.
Stuart ButlerHaving covered half-a-dozen countries for this book I have a huge cast of great and good to thank, but I will start with once again thank-ing my wife, Heather, young son, Jake, and my daughter Grace, who was born as I finished writing up my chapters. Thank you to my vari-ous travel companions on the road, Toby Ad-amson, Harry Gobat, Ben Clift, John Gray and Adrian Savio. Among many in Ethiopia I must thank Abayneh Temesgen, Blen Mandefro, Kate Bradlow, Yasmin Abdulwassie, Tania O’Connor, Cheru Alemu and Shemels. In the sticky forests of the DRC, Republic of Congo and CAR huge thanks to Eric de Lamotte, Olivier in Brazza-ville, Balthazar Sieders, Cai Tjeenk Willink, Nick Ray, Eva Luef, Rod Cassidy and family, Michel, Louis Sarno, Louis-Philippe Lévesque, Richard Tshombe, Paul T Telfer, Emma Powell, Charlotte Hill, Emmanuel Munganga, Thomas Breuer, Syl-vie Van Malderen and the Italian road builder in the portacabin who gave me a bed for the night and a meal when I got stranded in the forest! At the opposite end of the climatic spectrum thank you to the good people of Sudan and South Sudan and in particular to Musaab Ha-mid Ahmed, Hany Ajeeb, Midhat Mahir, Rose-mary Behan, Thomas of Bahr el Jebel Safaris and Jessica Mottl. Finally, elsewhere in eastern Africa thank you to Charlotte Bourke, Julia Mut, Jeni Stow and Susan Nijiru.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BEHIN
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Jean-Bernard CarilletA huge thanks to everyone who made this trip a pure joy, including Arno, Gautier, Domi-nique, Julien, Myriam, Najiib, Nigel, Moham-med, Ramadan, Adam, Masso, Baragoïta, the two Houmeds, Dimbio, Nicolas and his team, Vicente and all the travellers I met while on the road. At Lonely Planet, a big thanks to Will, Glenn, Annelies, Brigitte and the carto team for their support. I’m also grateful to Simon Richmond, coordinating author extraordinaire. And finally, once again a gros bisou to Christine and Eva.
Paul ClammerThere are always too many friends in Moroc-co to acknowledge, but particular thanks this time to Kerstin Brand in Marrakesh, Robert Johnstone in Fez and Alia Radman for being a hostess for Eid. In Mauritania, big thanks to Melissa Nielson Andersson and Natsuko Sa-waya, Cora at Bab Sahara, and to my driver in the Adrar, Jid Moma.
Lucy CorneThanks to my mum and dad for first intro-ducing me to this wonderful country and to my husband, Shawn, for finding an excuse to keep us here. Thanks to Kate Armstrong for her KZN tips and to Elmar Neethling and Ed Salomons for all the Durban and Drakensberg insights, to Gary Pnematicatos for bringing me up to speed on Cape Town’s nightlife and to my boys for being the best travel companions ever. At Lonely Planet I’d like to say enkosi to Simon, Glenn, David, Lucy and Brigitte for their help and support.
Emilie FilouThanks to all the travellers, tourism profession-als and friends who chipped in with recom-mendations, shared a meal or a taxi-brousse ride and were part of the journey – simply too many to name here. And thank you to my husband Adolfo for putting up with this crazy life.
Mary FitzpatrickMany thanks to all those who helped me with this update, especially to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their company, patience and good humour.
Michael GrosbergThanks to all those who welcomed me with open arms and shared their insight, experi-ence and knowledge of Zambia: Amy Wald-man, Oli Dreike, Andy Hogg, Jess and Ade Salmon, Alec Cole and Emma Wood, Tyrone McKeith, Linda van Heerden, Greg Heltzer, Riccardo Garbaccio, Meegan Treen, Natalie Clark, Adrian Penny, Lynda and Rick Schulz, Glenn Evans, Sheila Donnelly, Ian Stevenson (who let me ‘co-spot’ on an anti-poaching
flight over the Lower Zambezi), Mindy Rob-erts, Nathalie Zanoli and Samrat Datta.
Anthony HamAndy Raggett was an invaluable source of information at all stages of the journey. Thanks also to Mike Romeo, Will Gourlay, Alan Murphy, Glyn Maude, Keitumetse Ngaka, Olefile Sebogiso, Nick Jacobsen, Monika Schiess and to Jan and Cleo in Khutse. Special thanks to Jan and Ron, and to my three girls Marina, Carlota and Valentina: Os quiero con todo mi corazon.
Trent HoldenFor Uganda thanks to Tim Bewer, Anne-Marie Weeden, Robert Brierley, Debbie Willis, Cam McLeay, UWA, Jimmy, Jason, Miha, Fred, and John Hunwick. In Zimbabwe and Vic Falls, I’m indebted to Joy in Vic Falls, and Kim in Livingstone, plus Sally Wynn, Choice Mush-unje, Gordon Adams, Ann Bruce, Jane High, Val from Bulawayo, and a big sing out to the Seremwe brothers (James and George). Finally huge thanks to the production team, particularly David Carroll, Will Gourlay and Glenn van der Knijff. Lots of love to my family and friends.
Jessica LeeMy heartfelt thanks to the people of Egypt who always make travelling in Egypt such a joy. I’d like to especially give a huge alfa shuk to Hoda Afifi, Hossam Moussa, Dan and Reham Southern-Tawfik and Salama Abd Rabbo.
Nana LuckhamAt Lonely Planet, my thanks go to Will Gour-lay, Brigitte Ellemor, Glenn van der Knijff, Simon Richmond, Adrian Persoglia and Bruce Evans. Thanks also to Patrick Smith, Reuben Swift and Yaa Yeboah.
Tom MastersA huge debt of thanks to Rosemary Masters, who came to Africa for the first time in her sixties and proved to be an amazing travelling companion, never losing her sense of humour despite illness, bad weather and lots of long journeys. Enormous thanks also to Niall Cowley, whose company and high spirits in Cameroon were unforgettable, whether driv-ing down the worst roads I’ve ever been on, befriending the mayor of Kumba, or surviving a night in a hotel in Wum without first eating fish from a plastic bag. Grids!
Alan MurphyA big thanks to my travel companion and friend Smitzy for his patience, advice and adventurous spirit (and for not getting further traffic infringements). In Namibia there are too many to thank but special mention to Almuth Styles in Swakopmund
BEHIN
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1 106whose assistance was much appreciated. Lastly, thanks to the numerous CEs at LP that I worked with.
Anja MutićObrigada, Hoji, for coming along for the ride and making it more fun. A huge thanks to Samira and her crowd in Mindelo, who made me fall in love with the city. Special thanks go to Cristiano and Larissa on Boa Vista, Kate on Santo Antão and Patti for being a great con-nector. Finally, to my always-laughing mum and the inspiring memory of my father.
Caroline SiegThanks to everyone who took the time to share their tips with me and for the count-less, friendly conversations at waterside bars across The Gambia and Senegal. And a very special merci to Gilles in Dakar for some sensational nights out on the town.
Helena SmithHelena Smith would like to thank all the warm and open people she met in Kenya. Especially Violet and Jonathan in Mombasa; Elias who helped for hours when she got lost in Nyali; driver Leonard for being cool under the pres-sure of traffic and storms; the Maasai people of Ewangan village for their unforgettable welcome, particularly James, Shinka, Taiyio, Oloiboni, John Tubula, Mpoe, Kaitikei, Charles and Geoffrey; plus Dea, Lisa, Linda and Christine in Naivasha. Also to Bahati, who was more fun to travel with than was strictly necessary.
Dean StarnesIt would be wrong not to acknowledge the legacy of work from previous editions, the assistance from my fellow authors and the hard work by the team at Lonely Planet. The company of my wife, Debbie Starnes, vastly improved long trips and thanks to the starry African nights we returned home with a baby on board. As always, thanks to my Mum and Dad for their unfailing support.
Kate ThomasA big obrigada to everyone who helped out in the terra sabi (delicious land) of Guinea-Bissau. Especially Matt Boslego, Holly Pick-ett (for her company on the tough road to Varela), Brian King, Ze Manel, Amelia ‘Betty’ Gomes, Aicha and Bassiro Djalo, the Mama Djombos and the extended Djalo-King clan. Thanks to Lassana Cassama, Gorka Gamarra and, on the island of Bolama, to Felipa and to Queba Dabo for such a warm welcome. In lovely Liberia, special thanks to Othello Garblah, Saad Karim (for his company and
couch), Saki Golafale, taximan Alpha, Chawki Bsaibes, Jamal and all the wonderful people I’ve known in six years’ worth of time and trips to a country that I consider home. In Sierra Leone, Fid Thompson’s help was invaluable. Thank you Fid! Shout-outs also to Koumba Jalloh, Aminata Seye, Nelson Gbarpor and Faty Serif. On the road in Côte d’Ivoire, thanks to Hortense and Franck, Amie ‘Rainbow’, David Diallo and Tessa, for fun had on our foodie tours of Abidjan.
Richard WatersMy special thanks to Rob and Lindsay Mc-Conaghy and their excellent team who pro-vided specialist advice every step of the way; Chris Badger, Zane, and Emma and Chris; Gaye Russell, Kate Webb and my Malawian pal Gareth Watson for keeping me company. Thanks also to James Lightfoot for his valu-able help. Finally my gratitude to the people of Malawi who remain in adversity among the most decent I’ve ever met.
Donna WheelerMuch gratitude to my Tunisian and Algerian hosts and friends, along with many stran-gers, for great generosity with your time and knowledge. Special mention goes to, in Tuni-sia, Marouane and Sondos, Amel and Patrick, Amel, Tarek, Salma, Raaba, Zouheir and Erika, Isabelle and, last but not least, Vittorio, and to Ahcicene, Loute and Sami in Algeria. To my family, Joe, Rumer and Biba Guario, thank you for again putting up with the absences and obsessions with such good grace.
Vanessa WrubleMany thanks to my excellent research as-sistant David Idagu, the amazingly generous Lemi Ghariokwu, Rikki Stein (and Captain!), Yeni, Femi, and Seun Kuti (and Osaro, Shi-gogo, Patches and Vibes), Obi Asika, Osahon Akpata, Azu Nwagbogu and AAF, Chike Nwagbogu Nike Davies-Okundaye, Robin Campbell, everyone at Pandrillus, Glenna Gordon, Ruth McDowall, Raphael Ayukotang, Vincent Taibi (in absentia), Lost In Lagos, and the dude who took me to the pharmacy.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
Cover photograph: Burchell’s zebras, Etosha National Park, Namibia, Steve Coleman/Getty Images.
BEHIN
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THIS BOOK This 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Africa guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond (coordinat-ing author), Kate Armstrong, Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Paul Clammer, Lucy Corne, Emilie Filou, Mary Fitzpatrick, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden, Jessica Lee, Nana Luckham, Tom Masters, Alan Murphy, Anja Mutić, Nick Ray, Caroline Sieg, Helena Smith, Dean Starnes, Kate Thomas, Richard Waters, Donna Wheeler and Vanessa Wruble, and Jane Cornwell wrote the African Music chapter. The previous edition was coordinated by Anthony Ham. This guidebook was commis-
sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel-bourne office, and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editors William Gourlay, Glenn van der KnijffCoordinating Editor Tasmin Waby Senior Cartographer Jennifer JohnstonCoordinating Layout Designer Jacqui SaundersManaging Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Bruce EvansManaging Layout Designers Chris Girdler, Jane HartManaging Cartographer Adrian Persoglia Assisting Editors Penny Cordner, Victoria Harrison, Briohny Hooper, Kate James, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte
Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, Jeanette Wall, Kate Whitfield, Amanda Williamson, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Valeska Canas, Xavier Di Toro, Julie DodkinsCover Research Naomi ParkerInternal Image Research Kylie McLaughlinLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Martin Heng, Genesys India, Jouve India, Bella Li, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Wibowo Rusli, Dianne Schallmeiner, Kerrianne Southway, Geoff Stringer, Gerard Walker, Wendy Wright
11081108
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
IndexAAba Huab Valley 889-90Abeokuta 400Aberdare National Park 610Abidjan 270-5, 272, 274
accommodation 271drinking 273food 271-3shopping 273-4sights 270-1tourist information 274-5travel to/within 275
Abomey 210-11Abono 325Abri 152Abu Simbel 91-2 Abuja 404Abuko Nature Reserve 296accommodation 1064-5Accra 303-13, 306-7, 310
accommodation 308-10activities 303-13sights 303-7tourist information 312tours 308travel to/within 312
Adanwomase 325Addis Ababa 574-80, 576-8Adjara 207African Union 1033Afrikaans 1093AfrikaBurn 26Afrofuturism 1049Agadir 117-20Agbodrafo 463AIDS 1035, 1086-7Ain Draham 172-3air travel 1076-7 airports 1076-7Aïsha 378Aït Benhaddou 133
Akosombo 313-14Aksum 583-4Akwidaa 321Al-Azhar Mosque 59-60Al-Jazaïr, see Algiers Alexandria 71-4, 72-3Algeria 44-57, 45
accommodation 44, 54budgeting 48business hours 54climate 44embassies 54highlights 45history 52-4holidays 55safety 47, 55 travel to/within 56-7visas 56
Algiers 45-9, 46-7Aliwal Shoal 932Ambalavao 804Ambohimanga 797Amboseli National Park
623-4Amedzofe 314Amharic 1092-3amoebic dysentery 1090Anakao 807Aného 463-4Angola 750-3, 751
culture 751-3highlights 750safety 752visas 750
animals, see wildlife, see also individual animals
Annaba 49Anomabu 315Antananarivo 796-801,
798-9antelope 1061Antsirabe 801-2, 802 Arab Spring 1033, 1046 Arabic 1093-5Argungu Fishing Festival
26
Arquipélago dos Bijagós 345-6
Art Bienale 27art galleries
Benin 200, 209 Botswana 755Côte d’Ivoire 276, 279Gambia 289Guinea-Bissau 344Kenya 598Malawi 836Namibia 878 Nigeria 394-5 Senegal 413South Africa 927, 934Zimbabwe 1001, 1011
Artisans in Ouagadougou 28arts & crafts 1039-40arts centres 421, 429Arusha 692-8, 694-6Arusha National Park 698-9Ashanti Festival 28Assinie 278Aswan 88-91, 90Aswan High Dam 91Atakora region 212-13Atakpamé 465-6Atâr 377-8Atbara 155Atlantic Coast, Mauritania
375-7Atlantic Coast, Morocco
110-20Atlantic Coast, The Gambia
288-96, 290-1accommodation 289-93activities 288-9drinking 294-5food 293-4shopping 295sights 288-9tourist information 295tours 289travel to/within 295-6
ATMs 1067Ayoûn el-Atroûs 380
BBafatá 347Bafoussam 254Bafut 254Bagamoyo 686Bahariya Oasis 76Bahir Dar 580-1Ballabu Conservation
Project 296Bamenda 252-3, 253Bamessing 253-4Banana Islands 449-50Banfora 230Banjul 286-8, 286Bantu peoples 1028, 1029
Congo 493DRC 509 Equatorial Guinea 518 Gabon 535 Malawi 843Mozambique 868Namibia 901South Africa 952Swaziland 971Tanzania 710 Uganda 741, 743 Zambia 992 Zimbabwe 1020
Bassa peoples 362bazaars 22Bazaruto Archipelago 861beach boys 301Beach Ngobila 513Begrawaiya 151 Beira 861-2Ben Amira 378Benin 198-218, 199
accommodation 198, 215budgeting 200business hours 216climate 198embassies 215highlights 199history 214holidays 216safety 216
1109IN
DEX B- C
travel to/within 217-8visas 216-17
Benin City 402Berbera 661-2Berbers 54Bertoua 262bike travel, see cyclingbilharzia 1089birdwatching 37, 1059,
1062Botswana 769Cameroon 249Djibouti 559Ethiopia 587Gambia, The 296Madagascar 803, 822Malawi 831Mauritania 377 Nigeria 405 São Tomé & Príncipe 542 Senegal 428, 432 Somaliland 557 South Africa 933, 954Swaziland 969Uganda 732
Bissau 341-5, 342black market 1067Blantyre 836-40, 838-9Bloemfontein 936Blyde River Canyon Nature
Reserve 949-50Bo 451boat travel 24, 1077-8
Cameroon 267Gambia, The 301Guinea-Bissau 351Morocco 141Nigeria 411Sierra Leone 455-6
Bobo-Dioulasso 226-9, 228
Boko Haram 396, 404Bokong Nature Reserve
790Bolgatanga 327-8books
environment 1050Ghana 313Malawi 845Nigeria 408Sahara 1057Sierra Leone 453 wildlife 1062
border crossings 1079 Botswana 754-79,
756-7, 16accommodation 777budgeting 755business hours 777-8
climate 754embassies 777highlights 756-7history 774-5holidays 778travel to/within 778-9visas 778
Boukombé 212Brandberg (Fire Mountain)
889Brazzaville 485-9, 486-8Brufut 296-7Buba 347Buchanan 359-60Buea 248-9buffalos 1061-2Buganu (Marula) Festi-
val 25Bujumbura 545-7, 546-7Bukoba 704Bulawayo 1011-12, 1012Bulembu 969-70Bulla Regia 173Bunce Island 450bungee jumping 23, 40
South Africa 924, 944, Uganda 727, 744 Zambia 986, 994 Zimbabwe 1015, 1021
Burao 662-3Burchell’s zebra, see
zebrasBurkina Faso 219-37, 220-1
accommodation 219, 235budgeting 227business hours 236embassies 236highlights 220-1history 234holidays 236safety 236travel to/within 237visas 236-7
Burundi 544-53, 545accommodation 551budgeting 547climate 544embassies 551highlights 545history 550holidays 552safety 552travel to/within 552-3visas 552
bus travel 1081-2 bush-taxis, see also taxis-
brousses Benin 217-18
Burkina Faso 237Côte d’Ivoire 283Gambia, The 301Liberia 365Mauritania 385-6Nigeria 411Sierra Leone 456Togo 471
bush-walking, see hikingbusiness hours 1069Busua 320-1Butre 320Bvumba Mountains 1009Bwejuu 685Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park 735-6
CCairo 59-70, 62-3, 66-8
accommodation 63-5activities 63entertainment 68-9food 65-8shopping 69sights 59-63travel to/within 70walking tours 65
Calabar 402-4camels 133, 138, 377,
379, 380Cameroon 238-67, 240-1
accommodation 238, 265
activities 265budgeting 239business hours 265embassies 265highlights 240-1history 263holidays 266safety 266travel to/within 266-7visas 266
camping 1064Campo 257Canhabaque 346canoeing 24, 327, 767, 771,
772, 1009Cap Bon 179Cap Skiring 435-7 Cape Argus Pick n Pay
Cycle Tour 26Cape Coast 315-18, 316Cape Maclear 835-6Cape Point 293Cape Three Points 321Cape Town 909-20, 912-
14, 916-18, 17
Cape Town Minstrel Carnival 25
car travel 1080-1Algeria 57Benin 218Burkina Faso 237Cameroon 267Egypt 97Ethiopia 594Gabon 538Gambia, The 301Ghana 335Kenya 633, 634Liberia 365Madagascar 821Mauritania 385Morocco 141Mozambique 873-4Nigeria 411Rwanda 651Senegal 440Sierra Leone 456South Africa 779, 949, 959Tanzania 683, 715Togo 471Uganda 747
Carnival, Bissau 26, 341Carthage 171 Casablanca 114-15, 116Casamance 432-7, 434-5Casbah, Algeria 47cashpoints 1067castles 16, 318
Cape Coast Castle 315-16, 318
Gonder 581-2Osu Castle 303St George’s Castle 318-9
Cathedral Peak Nature Reserve 935
Cederberg Wilderness Area 922
cell phones 1071-2Central African Republic
474-7, 475culture 477highlights 474safety 476visas 474
Central Coast, Tunisia 179Central Drakensberg 935Central Kalahari Game
Reserve 773-4Ceuta 109Chad 478-82, 479
culture 482highlights 478safety 480visas 478
1110
INDEX C
- E
cheetahs 1060-1Chefchaouen 108-11, 110-11children, travel with 1065Chimanimani Mountains
862Chimanimani National
Park 1010Chimfunshi Wildlife
Orphanage 992Chimoio 862-3chimpanzees 645, 1059-60
Central African Republic 477
Congo 490, 492DRC 507Equatorial Guinea 516Gabon 536Liberia 359Nigeria 403 Rwanda 643, 645Sierra Leone 450, 451, Tanzania 705, 711Uganda 726, 732, 733,
734, 739Zambia 992
Chinese colonialism 1033Chinguetti 379Chintsa 926Chipata 982-3Chobe National Park 35,
762-3cholera 1086Christianity 1037-8churches
Cathedrale St Paul 271First United Methodist
Church, Monrovia 354Lalibela 585-6, 13Rock-Hewn Churches of
Tigray 585St John’s Maroon Church
443Chutes de la Karera 549Chutes de la Lobé 256Chutes du Zongo 505Cintsa 926climate 20cocoa 325Cocobeach 528Coffee Bay 926Cold War 1032colonialism 1032-3Congo 483-96, 484
accommodation 494budgeting 485
climate 483embassies 494highlights 484history 493-4safety 494travel to/within 495-6visas 494-5
Congo River 507, 1052Côte d’Ivoire 269-83, 270
accommodation 269, 281
budgeting 271business hours 282climate 269embassies 281-2highlights 270history 280-1holidays 282safety 282travel to/within 282-3visas 282
Cotonou 200-5, 202-3coupé-decalé style 276crafts 1039-40credit cards 1067-8Creek Town 403crocodiles 288-9, 328Cuamba 865culture 1034-44currencies 1067, 1068-9custom regulations 1065cycling 1078-9
DRC 514 Madagascar 811, 822 Malawi 831, 834, 841Uganda 730 South Africa 925 Swaziland 968, 969Zimbabwe 1009, 1013
DDahab 78-80Dakar 413-25, 416, 418-19,
422-3, 13accommodation 417-20food 420-1safety 423sights 413-17tourist information
423-4travel to/within 424-5
Dakhla 120Dakhla Oasis 76Damaraland 889-90Dapaong 467Dar Beaches 676Dar es Salaam 669-75,
672-3
Democratic Republic of Congo 497-515, 498-9, 16
accommodation 511budgeting 501climate 497embassies 511-12highlights 498history 509travel to/within 513-14visas 512-13
dengue fever 1086deserts 1052
Adrar, The 377-80 dunes 134Erg Chebbi 134Erg Chigaga 134 Grand Erg Occidental
50-1 Sahara, the 377, 379,
380, 381, 385, 387 15sand dune surfing 23
Devil’s Pool 11, 986, 11diamonds 452diarrhoea 1090Diego Suarez (Antsiranana)
809-10Diosso 490diphtheria 1086disabilities, travelling with
1072-3diving 23
best of 1053Djibouti 557Egypt 77, 78-9, 82Kenya 618, 629Madagascar 807, 807-8Malawi 835Mozambique 859-60,
860-1São Tomé & Príncipe 542South Africa 932, 955Sudan 156, 160Tanzania 677, 704, 711Tunisia 172
Dixcove 320Djanet 51Djemila 49, 50Djibouti 554-66, 555
accommodation 554, 564budgeting 557business hours 565climate 554embassies 564highlights 555history 563-4holidays 565safety 565travel to/from 566
visas 565-6Djibouti City 555-60,
556-7, 558Djingliya 261Doe, Samuel 362Dômes de Fabedougou 230Dongola 153-4Dorob National Park 888Douala 245-8, 246-7Doubtful Spring 889-90Dougga 174Douz 184-6Drâa Valley 133-4Drakensberg 934-6drugs 1067dunes & deserts 134Durban 927-32, 928-30dye pits 405Dzanga-Sangha National
Park 37, 477
EEast African Safari Rally 28East London 925-6Ebodjé 257Ebolowa 256Edfu 88Egypt 58-97, 60-1
accommodation 58budgeting 70business hours 94climate 58embassies 94highlights 60history 92-3holidays 95safety 92, 95travel to/within 96-7visas 95
Egyptian Museum 59elands 1061-2electricity 1065elephants 1058, 15
Botswana 759, 761, 762-3, 768, 769, 771
Central African Republic 474, 477
Chad 478, 481Congo 483, 490, 492Democratic Republic of
Congo 508Equatorial Guinea 516Gabon 529, 531, 532Ghana 327Guinea 336Guinea-Bissau 348Kenya 598, 610, 623-4Liberia 360
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1111IN
DEX E- GMalawi 831, 832, 841-2 Mozambique 889Namibia 891Niger 387 Nigeria 405 , 406Senegal 432 Sierra Leone 451, 452
1058, 7 South Africa 921, 933,
948South Sudan 652, 654Swaziland 968Tanzania 699, 706Uganda 733, 734, 739,
740 Zambia 983, 986 Zimbabwe 1008, 1014,
1015El Haouaria 179Elinkine 435 El-Jem 179 Elmina 318-19, 19 El-Obeid 157 Emakhosini Ophathe
Heritage Park 933embassies 1066Entebbe 726-7environment 1050-7Equatorial Guinea
516-19, 517culture 518highlights 516history 518safety 517visas 516
Erg Chebbi 134Erg Chigaga 134Eritrea 567-70,
culture 568-9highlights 567history 568-9safety 569visas 567
Essaouira 115-17, 118-19Ethiopia 571-94, 572-3
accommodation 591business hours 592embassies 591highlights 572-3history 589-90holidays 592safety 592travel to/within 593-4visas 593
etiquette 1072bargaining 1068 Ghana 333
Etosha National Park 890-3, 892, 14
exchange rates 1069extreme sports 23Ezulwini Valley 965-8
FFarafra Oasis 75felucca rides 85, 88female genital mutilation
382ferry travel 1077-8Fespaco 26, 222Festival au Désert 25Festival of the Dhow
Countries 27Festival of World Sacred
Music 27, 121festivals 25-8, 94
Argungu Fishing Festival 26
Art Bienale 27 Artisans in Ouagadougou
28 Ashanti Festival 28 Buganu (Marula) Festival
25 Cape Argus Pick n Pay
Cycle Tour 26 Cape Town Minstrel
Carnival 25 Carnival, Bissau 26, 341Carthage International
Festival 193Evala 466Fespaco 26, 222Festival au Désert 25 Festival des Divinités
Noires 464Festival of the Dhow
Countries 27 Festival of the Sahara 193 Fête de l’Abissa 282Fête des Masques 227Fête du Dipri 282Fez Festival of World
Sacred Music 121Fire Festival 27 Gnaoua & World Music
Festival 116Grand Bassam Carni-
val 28Hands on Harvest 25Harare International
Festival of Arts (HIFA) 26, 23
Harvest Festival 27Hermanus Whale
Festival 28Igue Festival 28Infecting the City 26International Sahara
Festival 28
Jazz à Ouaga 26, 222Kano Durbar 405-6Kilimanjaro Marathon 26Lantern Parade 454Le Festival International
de Théâtre Amateur 107
Les Fanals 429Lesotho Ski Season 27Mask Festivals 26Mt Cameroon Race of
Hope 25 National Arts Festival 27Nigeria 409-10Odwira festival 323Old Mutual Kirstenbosch
Summer Sunset Concerts 28
Osun Festival 27Oyster Festival 27 Roots International
Festival 300Saint-Louis Jazz Festival
429Tabarka International
Jazz Festival & Festival des Variétés 193
Tabaski 255 Voodoo Festival 25
Fête des Masques 227Fez 121-5, 122, 124-5Fianarantsoa 802-3filariasis 1086films 1026
African 1039, 1041, 1056Fire Festival 27fishing 289, 297Fish River Canyon 896-7flamingos 432food 1041-4football 1035Forêt de Kou 229Fort Portal 730-1forts
Fortaleza d’Amura 341Fort James 297Fort Metal Cross 320Fort William 315Ghana 318, 19
Foumban 254-54WD touring 1080-1Franceville 533Francistown 760Free State 936Freetown 442-8, 444-5,
446accommodation 444activities 443drinking 447
food 444-7shopping 447-8sights 443tourist information 448travel to/within 448
French language 1095-7
GGabon 520-38, 521
accommodation 520, 536
budgeting 523business hours 536climate 520culture 534embassies 536highlights 521history 534holidays 537safety 537travel to/within 537-8visas 537
Gaborone 755-9, 758, 760Gabú 347Gaddafi, see Qaddafigalleries, see art galleriesGamba 531-2Gambia River 298Gambia, The 284-301, 285
accommodation 284, 300
activities 300budgeting 287business hours 300climate 284culture 299embassies 300environment 299-300highlights 285history 298-9holidays 301safety 301travel to/within 301visas 301
games reserves, see parks & wildlife reserves
Gammarth 171Ganvié 206Gaoua 231-2Garden Route National
Park 923-4gardens
Botanic Gardens, Bakau 288
Botanical Gardens, Limbe 249
Centre Songhai 206Cotton Tree, Freetown 443Jardin Majorelle 128
1112
INDEX G
-K
Garoua 259Garoua-Boulaï 262Gauteng 936-48gay travellers 1066gazelles 1061-2Gbarnga 360Gedaref 156-7Gede Ruins 619Ghana 302-35,
304-5, 19accommodation 302,
332budgeting 303business hours 333climate 302embassies 332highlights 304-5history 329-30holidays 333opening hours 333safety 333travel to/within 334visas 334
Ghardaïa 50giraffes 1061Gisenyi 644Gitega 549Giza 59, 69, 11glaciers 24Gnaoua & World Music
Festival 27, 116Gnassingbé, Faure 468Goda Mountains 561-2Gola Forest Reserve 452golf 359Goma 505-6Gombe National Park 705Gonder 581-2gorillas 1059, 17
permits 725 Rwanda 642-3 Uganda 735, 738,
Gorongosa National Park 862
Grand Bassam 275-7, Grand Bassam Carnival
28Grand Erg Occidental 50-1Grand Popo 209Graskop 950Great East Road, Zambia
982-3Great Rift Valley 1050-1Great Zimbabwe 1010-11Guet N’Dar 429
Guinea 336-9, 337culture 338-9history 338music 338-9politics 337-8
Guinea-Bissau 340-51, 341accommodation 340,
350budgeting 344business hours 350climate 340embassies 350highlights 341history 348holidays 350safety 345travel to/within 350-1visas 350
Gulu 740Gunjur 297
HHammamet 179hammams 138Hands on Harvest 25Harar 586-7Harare 1001-7, 1002-3,
1004-5Harare International
Festival of Arts (HIFA) 26, 23
Harbel 359Hargeisa 657-60, 658-9Harper 360-1Harvest Festival 27Hausa 1097-8health 1084-91heat exhaustion 1090-1hepatitis A & B 1086Hermanus Whale
Festival 28High Atlas Mountains 132-3hiking 24, 1051
Burkina Faso 233Cameroon 249, 265Côte d’Ivoire 280Lesotho 792Morocco 132-3, 134, 138São Tomé & Príncipe 542Sierra Leone 450-1South Africa 924, 934-5,
956Togo 464Tunisia 172Uganda 733-6Zimbabwe 1021
Himba people 891, 903Hippo Regius 49
hippos 1061, 19Botswana 759, 761, 762,
768, 769, 771Gabon 531 Ghana 328-9, Guinea-Bissau 346Kenya 607-8Malawi 830, 832, 841-2Namibia 894Sierra Leone 451 South Sudan 652, 654South Africa 948Swaziland 966Tanzania 699 Uganda 733, 734, 739Zambia 983, 985 Zimbabwe 1008
history 1028-33hitching 1081HIV 1035, 1086-7Hlane Royal National
Park 968Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park
933Hogsback 925holidays 1070
Islamic 25homestays 420, 1064horse-riding 276, 325hostels 1064hotels 1064-5Houmt Souq 186-8,
188-9Hurghada 81-2Huye (Butare) 643-5Hwange National Park
1014-15
IIbadan 401-2Igue Festival 28Île de Gorée 425-6Île De Karabane 435Île Sainte Marie (Nosy
Boraha) 813-15, 814Ilha de Bolama 346Ilha de Bubaque 346Imlil 133immunisations 1084-5impalas 1061-2indigenous religions
1038Infecting the City 26Inhambane 859insect bites 1091insurance 1066, 1084International Sahara
Festival 28internet access 1066
internet resources 21, 1026, 1045
accommodation 1065medical 1085
Iringa 705-6iSimangaliso Wetland
Park 933Isiolo 610-11Islam 1037-8itineraries 29-34Ivindo National Park 533
JJambiani 685James Island 297Janjangbureh 298Jazz à Ouaga 26, 222Jeffrey’s Bay 924Jemberem 348Jerba 186-8Jinja 727-9, 728-9Joal-Fadiout 427Johannesburg 937-48,
938-40, 942-3Johnson-Sirleaf, Ellen 361Jonathan, Goodluck 396,
407-8Jos 404-5Jozani Forest 685 Jozani-Chwaka Bay
National Park 685Jufureh 297
KKabale 736-7Kafue National Park
989-90Kairouan 175-8, 176-8Kakamega Forest Reserve
612Kalahari, The 773-4, 16Kalambo Falls 991Kampala 717-26, 720-1,
722-4Kano 405-6Kano Durbar 28, 405-6Kaokoveld 890Kara 466-7Karima 154Karnak 83Karonga 830Karoo 921-2Kasama 991Kasane 763-4, 764-5Kasanka National Park 990Kasese 733Kassala 155-6Katanga 508
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1113IN
DEX K- M
Katima Mulilo 896kayaking 23Kazungula 763-4Kélibia 179Kenema 452kente cloth 332Kenya 595-634, 596-7
accommodation 629budgeting 599business hours 630climate 595embassies 629-30highlights 596-7history 626-7holidays 631safety 631travel to/within 632-4visas 632
Kere 346Kerma 153Kgalagadi Transfrontier
Park 951Khama Rhino
Sanctuary 760Khami Ruins 1013Khartoum 144-51, 146-7,
148-9accommodation 147-8food 149-50shopping 150sights 145-6travel to/within 150-1
Khaudum National Park 895-6
Kibale Forest National Park 732
Kibuye 644Kidepo Valley National Park
740-1Kiffa 380Kigali 636-41, 638-9Kigoma 704-5Kilimanjaro Marathon 26Kimberley 950-1Kinkole 505Kinshasa 500-5, 502-4Kisangani 508Kisantu 505Kisoro 737Kisumu 611-12Kitwe 991-2Knysna 922-3Kokrobite 315Kom Ombo 88Kongou Falls 533Koro 229-30Kotu 293Kou 229Koumi 229
Koussoukoingou 212Koutammakou 467Kouyaté, Bassekou 1047Koza 261Kpalimé 464-5Kpelle peoples 362Kribi 255-6Kruger National Park
948-9kudus 1061-2Kumasi 321-5, 322Kumbo 254Kuti, Fela 396, 397KwaZulu-Natal Reserves
933-4
LLa Cure Salée 28La Mare aux Poissons
Sacrés 229-30La Marsa 171Laâyoune 120Lac Abbé 561Lac Assal 561Lac Télé Reserve 491Lagos 394-401, 394
accommodation 395activities 394-5drinking 396-7food 395-6sights 394-5travel to/within 398-400
Lagos Island 398-401, 400-01
Lake Bunyonyi 737Lake Chad 1053Lake Kariba 1007-8, 1021Lake Kasenda 732Lake Kivu 644Lake Malawi National Park
835, 19Lake Manyara National
Park 699Lake Naivasha 607-8Lake Niassa 866-7Lake Nkuruba 731Lake Nyabikere 732Lake Nyinabulitwa 731-2Lake Nyinambuga 731Lake Tanganyika 704Lake Turkana 611Lake Victoria 701-3Lalibela 585-6, 13Lambaréné 530Lamu 620-1, 622-3languages 1092-103Las Geel 660-1, 18Le Kef 173-4
leatherwork 390legal matters 1067leishmaniasis 1087leopards 1060Leptis Magna 99leptospirosis 1087Les Tambourinaires du
Burundi 548Les Trois Baies 810 lesbian travellers 1066Lesotho 780-93, 782-3
accommodation 780, 791business hours 792climate 780culture 788-91embassies 791highlights 782-3history 788holidays 791safety 781travel to/within 792visas 792
Lesotho Ski Season 27Liberia 352-65, 353
accommodation 352, 363
budgeting 354business hours 364climate 352culture 362embassies 363-4highlights 353history 361-2holidays 364safety 364travel to/within 364-5visas 364
libraries 379, 380Libreville 522-8, 524-5Libya 98-102, 100-1Lichinga 865-6lighthouses 361, 417Likoma 834Lilongwe 825-9, 826-7Limbe 249-51, 250lions 35, 1060
Benin 198, 213 Botswana 761, 762, 763,
768, 773Chad 481Djibouti 559 Kenya 608, 613, 624Malawi 831Namibia 889, 894Nigeria 405, 406Senegal 432 South Africa 933, 950South Sudan 654
Swaziland 968Tanzania 699, 700Uganda 727, 733, 734,
739, 740 Zambia 978 Zimbabwe 1008, 1014
literature 1026, 1039, 1040-1, 1044
environment 1050health 1085 Malawi 845Sahara desert 1057wildlife 1062
Livingstone 986-9, 988-9Livingstone, David 510,
546, 709, 830, 843, 986, 993
Livingstonia 830-1Liwonde National Park
841-2Loango National Park
531, 19Lobamba 967Lobéké National Park 37Lobi people 232local transport 1081-2Lola Ya Bonobo
Sanctuary 505Lomé 459-63, 460
accommodation 459-61drinking 462food 461-2safety 462shopping 462sights 459tourist information
462-3travel to/within 463
Lower Omo Valley 588-9Lower Zambezi Valley
984-5Loyangalani 611Lubango 753Lubumbashi 508Lüderitz 897-8Lusaka 978-82, 980-2Lushoto 687Luxor 83-8, 84-5
MMadagascar 794-822,
1060, 795accommodation 794,
818-19budgeting796climate 794culture 815-18embassies 819highlights 795
1114
INDEX M
- M
Madagascar continuedhistory 816-17holidays 819-20safety 820travel to/within 820-2visas 820
Maga 261Mahale Mountains National
Park 705Mahdia 178-9, 179Majete Wildlife Reserve
842-3Makasutu Culture
Forest 296Makeni 450Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans
National Park 761-2Makokou 533Makoua 491Malagasy language 1098malaria 1087-8Malawi 823-49, 824
accommodation 823, 845
budgeting 825climate 823culture 843-5embassies 846highlights 824history 843-4holidays 846safety 828, 846travel to/within 847-9visas 847
Malealea 786Mali 366-9, 367
culture 368-9history 368 safety 368visas 366
Malindi 618-19Malindi Marine National
Park 618Malkerns Valley 965-8Malolotja Nature Reserve
970Mamelles, Les 417Man 279-80Mana Pools National Park
1008Mandela, Nelson 909, 1033
museum 944Manzini 968Mapfumo, Thomas 1049maps 1067
Maputo 851-9, 854-6Mar Lodj 427-8 Marangu 690Mardis Gras 26Maroua 259-61, 260Marrakesh 128-33, 130, 12
accommodation 128-9food 129shopping 129-30sights 128-9tourist information 130-1travel to/within 131-2
Marsabit 611Marshall 359Masai Mara National
Reserve 612-13, 700, 16Maseru 781-4, 784-5Mask Festivals 26masks 363Matmata 186Matobo National Park
1013-14Maulid Festival 26Maun 769-73Mauritania 370-86, 371
accommodation 370, 383
budgeting 374climate 370culture 382embassies 383highlights 371history 381-2holidays 384safety 384travel to/within 384-6visas 384, 385
Maxixe 860Mayumba National Park
532Mbabane 964-5, 964Mbala 991Mbale 729Mbamba Bay 707Mbeya 706-7Mbour 427media 1036-7Mediterranean Coast,
Morocco 106-10Meknès 124-7, 127meningococcal meningitis
1088Meroe sites 151-2Merzouga 134Mgahinga Gorilla National
Park 737-8M’hamid 134Mikindani 708Minkébé National Park 529
Missirah 428-9Mkhaya Game Reserve 968Mlawula Nature Reserve
969mobile phones 1071-2Moçimboa Da Praia 868Mognori 327Mokhotlong 787-8Mokolodi Nature Reserve
759mokoro canoeing 24, 767,
771, 772Mole National Park 327Mombasa 614-16, 614-15,
616-17Mombasa Carnival 28Monastir 179money, see currencies Mongu 990Monkey Bay 835monkeys 314, 403, 451Monrovia 353-8, 356-7Moors 382Mora 261Moremi Game Reserve
768-9Morija 785-6Morocco 103-41, 104-5
accommodation 103, 138budgeting 108business hours 139climate 103culture 136embassies 138festivals 138-9highlights 104-5history 135-6holidays 139safety 139-40travel to/within 140-1visas 140
Moshi 687-90, 688-9Mosque-Madrassa of
Sultan Hassan 59mosques
Al-Azhar Mosque 59-60 Ali ben Youssef Mosque
128Grande Mosquée, Bobo-
Dioulasso 226Grande Mosquée,
Chefchaouen 109Grande Mosquée, Nouak-
chott 371-2Grand Mosque, Saint-
Louis 429Hassan II Mosque 114Kairaouine Mosque 121Koutoubia Mosque 128Larabanga 327
Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan 59
Tamale 326Wa 328
Mossel Bay 921motorcycle travel 1080-1
Algeria 57Benin 218Burkina Faso 237Cameroon 267Egypt 97Ethiopia 594Gabon 538Gambia, The 301Ghana 335Kenya 633, 634Liberia 365Madagascar 809, 815,
821Mauritania 385Morocco 141Nigeria 411Rwanda 651Sierra Leone 456South Africa 949, 959Tanzania 683, 715Togo 471Uganda 744
Moucha Island 560-1 Moulay Idriss 128mountain biking see
cycling mountaineering 24mountains
climbing advice 691High Atlas Mountains
132-3Jebel Toubkal 132-3Kediet Ijill 383La Dent de Man 280Mandara Mountains 261Mt Agou 464Mt Bintumani 450-1Mt Cameroon 249 Mt Elgon National Park
729-30 Mt Kenya National Park
609-10, 609, Mt Kilimanjaro 690-2,
1055Mt Klouto 464Mt Meru 692Mt Nimba 360Mt Sinai 80Mt Tonkoui 280Nuba Mountains 157Sindou Peaks 231trekking routes 691-2Table Mountain 915
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1115IN
DEX M- N
Taka Mountains 155Usambara Mountains
687Moucha Island 560-1 Mozambique 850-74,
852-3accommodation 870budgeting 851business hours 872climate 850culture 868-70embassies 870-1highlights 852-3history 868-9holidays 871safety 858, 871travel to/within 872-4visas 872
Mozambique Island 864-5, 12
Mpulungu 991Mpumalanga 948-50Mt Cameroon Race of
Hope 25Mt Elgon National Park
729-30Mt Kenya National Park
609-10, 609Mt Kilimanjaro 690-2,
1055, 7climbing advice 691trekking routes 691-2
Mt Meru 692Mt Sinai 80Mtwara 708Murchison Falls National
Park 739-40, 739Musanze (Ruhengeri) 641-2museums
Alexandria National Museum 71
Anglo-Boer War Museum 936
Apartheid Museum 937Aswan Museum & theRuins of Abu 88Bardo Museum of
Prehistory & Ethnography 47
Bibliotheca Alexandrina 71
Calabar Museum 403Dar Jamaï Museum 126District Six Museum 909Egyptian Museum 59Egyptian Textile Museum
65Espace Doual’art 245Ethnological Museum,
Addis Ababa 574
Fort Nongqayi Museum Village 932
Fort Jesus 614 Gidan Makama Museum
405Golden Mummies
Museum 76Graeco-Roman
Museum 71Great Zimbabwe
Museum 1011IFAN Historical Museum
425IFAN Museum,
Saint-Louis 429Jos National Museum
404Kalakuta Republic
Museum 395Kasbah Museum 107Kisumu Museum 612KwaMuhle Museum 928Lamu Museum 620Leptis Museum 99Liberia National Museum
354Livingstone Museum 986Luxor Museum 83Maison des Esclaves 425Mandela House Museum
944Manhyia Palace Museum
322-3Masitise Cave House
Museum 787 Morija Museum &
Archives 785Moto Moto Museum 991Mummification
Museum 83Musée Andafivaratra 796Musée Communal
Sogossira Sanon 226Musée da Silva 206Musée d’Art
Camerounais 239Musée de la Musique
222Musée de Poni 231Musée des Arts et
Traditions 522Musée d’Histoire de
Ouidah 207-8Musée Ethnographique
de Porto Novo 206Musée Historique
d’Abomey 210Musée Honmé 206Musée National, Abidjan
271Musée National de
Gitega 549
Museé National, Kinshasa 500
Musée National du Costume, Grand Bassam 276
Musée National, Nouakchott 372-3
Musée Régional de Natitingou 211
Musée Théodore Monod 413
Museum Africa 937Museum of Islamic
Art 63Museum of Natural
History 637Museum of Traditional
Nigerian Architecture 404
National Cultural Centre 322
National Ethnography Museum 863
National Money Museum 851
National Museum & Art Gallery, Botswana 755
National Museum, Benin 402
National Museum, Ethiopia 574
National Museum, Gambia 287
National Museum, Ghana 308
National Museum, Kenya 598
National Museum of Namibia 878
National Museum of Rwanda 644
National Museum, Swaziland 967
National Museum, Tanzania 669
National Museum, Zambia 978
National Railway Museum, Freetown 443
Natural History Museum, Zimbabwe 1011
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts 121
Nelson Mandela Gateway museum 909
Nubia Museum 88Old American Legation
Museum 107Owela Museum 878Prempeh II Jubilee
Museum 321Railway Museum 598
‘Red Terror’ Martyrs Memorial Museum 574
Rukari Ancient History Museum 645
Sierra Leone National Museum 443
Slavery Museum 297South End Museum 924Tsumeb Mining Museum
893Uganda Museum 717Village Museum 669Zanzibar National
Museum of History & Culture 677
music 22, 1045-9Afrobeat 397coupé-decalé 276festivals 222Ghana 331Kuti, Fela 396, 397Mali 369Mauritania 382Morocco 137New Afrika Shrine 396Nigeria 397, 408Saint-Louis Jazz Festival
429Senegal 438Super Mama Djombo
349Togo 469
Mutare 1008-9Mwanza 701-3, 702-3Mzuzu 832-3
NNa’ama Bay 77Nabeul 179Nairobi 598-607, 600-1,
602-4Nakuru 608Namakwa 951Namibia 875-907, 876-7
accommodation 903budgeting 879climate 875culture 900-3embassies 903-4highlights 876-7history 901-2holidays 904practicalities 904safety 904travel to/within 905-7visas 905
Namib-Naukluft Park 887-8Nampula 863-4Naro Moru 610
1116
INDEX N
- P
Nata Bird Sanctuary 761National Arts Festival 27national parks 1053-4, see
also parks & wildlife reserves
Natitingou 211-12nature reserves, see parks
& wildlife reservesNaukluft Mountains 887-8Ndangane 427-8Ndola 991-2Nelspruit 949Néma 380Neto, António Agostinho 752New Afrika Shrine 396N’Gaoundéré 257-9, 258Ngoni Ba 1047Ngorongoro Conservation
Area 699-700Niansogoni 231Niger 387-90, 388
culture 389-90highlights 389 safety 389visas 387
Nigeria 391-411, 392-3accommodation 408budgeting 395business hours 409climate 391culture 408embassies 408highlights 392-3history 407holidays 410safety 396, 404, 410-11travel to/within 411visas 410
Nile River 727, 1052Nile Valley 82-92Nkhata Bay 833-4North Africa 38Northern Cape 950-1Nosy Be 807, 808Nouabalé-Ndoki National
Park 37Nouâdhibou 375-7Nouakchott 371-5, 372Ntonso 325Nuba Mountains 157Nubia Museum 88Nungwi 684Nyanga National Park
1009-10Nyika National Park 831-2
Nyungwe Forest National Park 645-6
OOkapi Wildlife Reserve 508Okavango Delta 765-73,
1052, 766-7Old Mutual Kirstenbosch
Summer Sunset Concerts 28
Olumo Rock 400Omaruru 883Ondini 933Opuwo 890Oran 49Orango Islands National
Park 346Oshogbo 402Osun Festival 27Osun Sacred Grove 402Ouadâne 379-80Ouagadougou 222-6,
224-5accommodation 222-3drinking 223-4festivals 222food 223shopping 224sights 222travel to/within 225-6
Oualâta 380-1Oudtshoorn 921-2Ouesso 492Ouidah 207-8Oukaïmeden 133Oussouye 433-5overlanders 1081Owando 491Oyem 529Oyster Festival 27
PPaga 328Paje 684-5palaces
Dar el-Makhzen 121Fon’s Palace 254Moro-Naba Palace 222Palais de la Bahia 128-9Palais du Lamido 257Palais Royal 254
Palmarin 427Panafest 27Parc National Andasibe-
Mantadia 810-11Parc National Conkouati-
Douli 490Parc National d’Andringitra
805, 18
Parc National de l’Isalo 804-5
Parc National de Ranomafana 803
Parc National de Taï 279 Parc National des Virunga
505, 506Parc National Des Volcans
642-3Parc National d’Odzala
491-2Parc National
Nouabalé-Ndoki 490, 492
parks & wildlife reservesAberdare National
Park 610 Abuko Nature Reserve
296Amboseli National Park
623-4 Arusha National Park
698-9 Bijilo Forest Park 289Blyde River Canyon Na-
ture Reserve 949-50 Bokong Nature Reserve
790 Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park 735-6 Cathedral Peak Nature
Reserve 935Cederberg Wilderness
Area 922 Central Kalahari Game
Reserve 773-4 Chimanimani National
Park 1010 Chobe National Park 35,
762-3 Dorob National Park 888Dzanga-Sangha National
Park 37, 477 Etosha National Park
890-3, 892, 14 Garden Route National
Park 923-4 Gashaka-Gumti National
Park 406-7Gola Forest Reserve 452Gombe National Park
705 Gorongosa National
Park 862 Hlane Royal National
Park 968 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park
933Hwange National Park
1014-15iSimangaliso Wetland
Park 933 Ivindo National Park 533
João Viera e Poilão National Marine Park 346
Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park 685
Kachikally Crocodile Pool 288-9
Kafue National Park 989-90
Kakum National Park 318Kasanka National Park
990Khaudum National Park
895-6 Kgalagadi Transfrontier
Park 951Kibale Forest National
Park 732Kidepo Valley National
Park 740-1 Kruger National Park
948-9Lake Malawi National
Park 835, 19Lake Manyara National
Park 699 Liwonde National Park
841-2Loango National Park
531, 19Lobéké National Park 37Mahale Mountains
National Park 705 Majete Wildlife Reserve
842-3Makasutu Culture Forest
296Makgadikgadi & Nxai
Pans National Park 761-2
Malindi Marine National Park 618
Malolotja Nature Reserve 970
Mana Pools National Park 1008
Masai Mara National Reserve 612-13, 700, 16
Matobo National Park 1013-14
Mayumba National Park 532
Mgahinga Gorilla Na-tional Park 737-8
Minkébé National Park 529
Mkhaya Game Reserve 968
Mlawula Nature Reserve 969
Mokolodi Nature Reserve 759
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1117IN
DEX P-S
Mole National Park 327Moremi Game Reserve
768-9Mt Elgon National Park
729-30 Mt Kenya National Park
609-10, 609, Murchison Falls National
Park 739-40, 739Namib-Naukluft Park
887-8Nouabalé-Ndoki National
Park 37Nyanga National Park
1009-10 Nyika National Park
831-2Nyungwe Forest National
Park 645-6Okapi Wildlife Reserve
508Orango Islands National
Park 346Outamba-Kilimi National
Park 451Parc de Sarakawa 466Parc National Andasibe-
Mantadia 810-11Parc National Conkouati-
Douli 490Parc National
d’Andringitra 805, 18Parc National de Campo-
Ma’an 257Parc National de la
Pendjari 213Parc National de l’Isalo
804-5 Parc National de
Niokolo-Koba 432Parc National de
Ranomafana 803 Parc National de Taï 279Parc National des Oi-
seaux Du Djoudj 432Parc National des
Virunga 505, 506 Parc National Des
Volcans 642-3Parc National Diawl-
ing 381Parc National d’Odzala
491-2 Parc National du Banc
d’Arguin 377Parc National du Delta
du Saloum 428Parc National du Waza
261-2Parc National Nouabalé-
Ndoki 490, 492 Pongara National Park
528
Queen Elizabeth National Park 734-5
Ras Mohammed National Park 77
Réserve de Nazinga 232-3
Réserve Satellite du Cap Blanc 376
Royal Natal National Park 934-5
Ruaha National Park 706 Rwenzori Mountains
National Park 733-4Sangha Trinational
Park 37Sapo National Park 360Sehlabathebe National
Park 790Selous Game Reserve
707-8Semuliki National Park
732-3 Serengeti National Park
700-1Simien Mountains
National Park 583South Luangwa National
Park 983-4, 14 South Island National
Park 611Southern Drakensberg
Wilderness Areas 935 Sperrgebiet National
Park 900Tarangire National Park
699Toro-Semliki Wildlife
Reserve 733Tsavo East National
Park 625Tsavo National Park
624-5Ts’ehlanyane National
Park 790uKhahlamba-
Drakensberg Park 934Vwaza Marsh Wildlife
Reserve 832-3Yankari National Park
405 Zakouma National
Park 481Pemba 685-6Petite Côte 426-9Philae (Aglikia Island) 91phones 1071-2photography 1069-70Pietermaritzburg 934Pigeons Bay 810Piggs Peak 969Plage des Sables Blancs
563
planningCentral Africa 39East Africa 39itineraries 29-34North Africa 38Southern Africa 40travel to/within Africa 21West Africa 39
Playa Negra (Black Beach) 518
Plettenberg Bay 923-4Pô 232Point Denis 528Pointe-Noire 489poliomyelitis 1088Pongara National Park 528population 1027Port Elizabeth 924-5Port Said 81Port St Johns 926-7Port Sudan 156Port-Gentil 529Porto Novo 205-7 Portuguese 1098-100Possotomé 209-10post 1070Pretoria 944-7, 946-7Puntland 666Pyramids at Giza 59, 69, 11Pyramids of Meroe 151
QQacha’s Nek 787Qaddafi, Colonel 102Qat 564quad biking 23Queen Elizabeth National
Park 734-5Quelimane 863Quinhámel 347Quirimbas Archipelago 867Quthing 787
RRabat 110-14, 112-13rabies 1088Ras Mohammed National
Park 77Red Sea Coast 81, 23religion 1027, 1037-8Reporters Without Borders
1036Réserve de la Lopé 532-3rhinos 608, 625, 700, 759-
60, 970, 1061Rhumsiki 261, 262Rick’s Café 115
Rift Valley Lakes 587-8Ring Road 253-5road tips 1080Robertsport 359rock art
Algeria 51Botswana 773Somaliland 661, 18South Africa 935
rock climbing 24, 450Rock-Hewn Churches of
Tigray 585Roma 785Roman sites 49Route des Pêches 205Route of Kings 210Royal Natal National Park
934-5Royal Valley, Swaziland 967Ruaha National Park 706Rubane 346Rundu 894-5Rwanda 635-51, 636
accommodation 648budgeting 637business hours 649climate 635culture 646-8embassies 648environment 650highlights 636history 646-7holidays 649safety 649travel to/within 650-1visas 649-50
Rwenzori Mountains National Park 733-4
SSabga Hill 253safaris 35-7
Sinai, Egypt 79planning 35-7
safety 21, 1070, see also individual countries
crime 1070hustlers 301 planning 21scams 1071traffic 1080travel warnings 1064
Sahara, the 377, 379, 380, 381, 385, 387 15
resources 1077Sahel, the 234Saint-Louis 429-32, 430Sakalava Bay 810
1118
INDEX S
- T
Saly 427Samfya 990San Pédro 278Sand Dunes Bay 810sand dune surfing 23sand sea, see ErgSangha Trinational Park 37Sani Top 787Sanyang 297São Tomé & Príncipe
539-42, 540highlights 539history 541safety 541visas 539
São Tomé Town 541Sapo National Park 360Sassandra 278Sauti za Busara 25scams 1071sea turtles 257Sehlabathebe National
Park 790Selous Game Reserve
707-8Semonkong 786Semuliki National Park
732-3Senegal 412-40, 414-15, 13
accommodation 412, 438
budgeting 413business hours 439climate 412culture 437-8drinking 438electricity 439embassies 438-9emergency services 439environment 438festivals 439food 412, 438highlights 414-15history 437holidays 439internet access 439language 439money 439planning 412politics 437safety 433, 439telephone services 439travel seasons 412travel to/within 439-40visas 439
sept-places (taxis) 351, 440Serengeti National Park
700-1Serenkunda, see Atlantic
Coast, Gambia Sesibi 153Sesriem 887Sétif 49Setté Cama 531-2Setti Fatma 133Sfax 179-81, 180-1Shakaland 933Sharm El-Sheikh 77Shela 623Shiwa Ng’andu 990-1 Shona 1100-1Siavonga 985Sidi Bou Saïd 171, 14Sierra Leone 441-56, 442
accommodation 441, 454budgeting 443business hours 454climate 441embassies 454highlights 442history 452-3holidays 455safety 455travel to/within 449,
455-6visas 455
signares 431Silacoro 280silverwork 382, 390Simien Mountains National
Park 583Sinai 77Siné-Saloum Delta 426-9Sipi Falls 730Siwa Oasis 74-5Skeleton Coast 888skydiving 23slavery history 388, 1031-2
Bunce Island 450Cape Coast 315-16Île de Gorée 425, 426Jufureh 297Mauritania 383Route des Esclaves 207
snake bites 1091snorkelling 23soccer 1035Société Nouvelle Sucrière
de la Comoé 230-1Sodwana Bay 933-4Soleb 152-3Somaliland 656-67, 657-60
accommodation 656, 664budgeting 658
culture 663-4embassies 664highlights 657history 663-4holidays 665safety 660, 661travel to/from 665-7visas 665
Somba people 211Songea 707Sossusvlei 887souqs 22Source Du Nil 549Sousse 179South Africa 908-61,
910-11accommodation 908,
955budgeting 909business hours 957climate 908culture 951-5embassies 956-7highlights 910-11history 952-3holidays 957safety 941, 959travel to/within 779, 949,
958-61visas 958
South Luangwa National Park 983-4, 14
South Island National Park 611
South Sudan 652-5, 653culture 655highlights 652safety 653visas 652
Southern Drakensberg Wilderness Areas 935
Soweto 944Sperrgebiet National Park
900Sphinx at Giza 59, 69, 11Spitzkoppe 889sports 1035-6Springbok 951springboks 1061-2Ssese Islands 738St George’s Castle 318-19St Katherine Protector-
ate 80St Lucia 933-4 Staff Benda Bilili 1048Star Wars locations 185Stellenbosch 920-1Stone Town 676-7,
680-2, 13
Storms River 923-32street names 205Suakin 156Sudan 143-63, 144
accommodation 159budgeting 145business hours 957climate 143embassies 160highlights 144history 158-9holidays 160safety 161travel to/within 162-3visas 161-2
Suez Canal 81Sun City 947-8Sunni Muslims 54Sunshine Coast, South
Africa 924Super Mama Djombo 349surfing
Ghana 320Liberia 359 Sierra Leone 443South Africa 919, 924,
930, 956Swahili language 1101Swakopmund 883-6,
884-5Swaziland 962-74, 963
accommodation 973budgeting 965business hours 973climate 962culture 971-3embassies 973highlights 963history 971-2holidays 974travel to/within 974visas 974
TTabarka 172Tabaski 28, 255 Table Mountain 915Tacheddirt 133Tafi Abuipe 314Tafi Atome 314Taka Mountains 155Takoradi 319-20Tamale 326-7Tamanrasset 51Tamatave (Toamasina)
811-12Tambacounda 432Tamberma 467
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1119IN
DEX T- WTamberma Valley 467Tanga 686-7Tangier 106-8, 106Tanji 296-7Tanouchert 380Tanzania 668-715, 670-1
accommodation 710-11budgeting 669business hours 711climate 668culture 708-10embassies 711highlights 670-1history 708-9holidays 711-12safety 712travel to/within 683,
712-15visas 712
Tarangire National Park 699
Tataouine 187taxis-brousses travel
Burkina Faso 237Gabon 527Ghana 335Madagascar 821-2Morocco 141Togo 471
Tazaghart 133tea 137, 383telephones 1071-2Terjît 378-9textiles 325, 332, 405Teyateyaneng 786Thaba-Bosiu 784-5thermal springs 405Tiébélé 233time 1072Timichi 133Timimoun 50-1Timkat 25Tipaza 49tipping 36Tiwai Island 451-2Tlemcen 49Toamasina 811-13, 812-13Todra Gorge 134Tofo 859-60Togo 457-71, 458
accommodation 457, 469budgeting 459business hours 470embassies 469environment 469highlights 458history 468safety 470
travel to/within 470-1visas 470
Togoville 463toilets 1072Toliara 805-7, 806Toro-Semliki Wildlife
Reserve 733Toubakouta 428-9tourist information 1072Tourou 261tours 1082-3Tozeur 182-4, 183train journeys 24train travel 1083
Cameroon 267Côte d’Ivoire 283Mauritania 376, 386Morocco 141Nigeria 411
transport 1076-83transporte misto 351travel seasons 20trekking 24tro-tro travel 335truck travel 1083Tsaranoro Valley 805Tsavo East National Park
625Tsavo National Park 624-5Ts’ehlanyane National
Park 790Tsumeb 893Tuareg peoples 54, 369Tuareg rebellion 368,
369, 388tuberculosis 1089Tubman, William 362Tujering 297Tuléar (Toliara) 805-6Tuli Block 760-1Tunis 166-72, 168-9, 166-7,
accommodation 168-9food 169-70information 170shopping 170sights 167-8travel to/within 170-1
Tunisia 164-96, 165accommodation 164, 192budgeting 167climate 164culture 190-2embassies 192-3food 164, 192highlights 165history 190-2holidays 193practicalities 193safety 193
travel to/within 194-5visas 194
Turtle Islands 451turtles 257, 321, 346Twyfelfontein 889-90typhoid 1089
UUganda 716-48, 718-19
accommodation 744budgeting 717business hours 745climate 716culture 741-4embassies 744highlights 718-19history 741-3holidays 745safety 745travel to/within 744,
746-8visas 746
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park 934
UN Development Programme 1034
Unesco World Heritage Sites 22-3
Aksum 583Cape Coast Castle
315-16, 318Dzanga-Sangha National
Park 477Elmina 318-19, 9Fort Jesus, Mombasa 614Gonder 581Great Zimbabwe 1010-11 Île de Gorée 425Isimangaliso Wetland
Park 933Jebel Barkal 154Kasubi Tombs,
Kampala 717 Khami Ruins 1013Koutammakou 467Lake Malawi National
Park 835, 19Lake Turkana 611Lalibela 585-6, 13Leptis Magna 99Mana Pools National
Park 1008Matobo National Park
1013Mozambique Island
864-5, 12Musée Historique
d’Abomey 210Parc National de
Niokolo-Koba 432
Parc National du Banc d’Arguin 377
Pyramids of Giza 59Saint-Louis 429-32South Island National
Park 611St George’s Castle
318-19Tsodilo Hills 773Twyfelfontein 889 Victoria Falls World
Heritage National Monument Site 1010-11
urbanisation 1034Usambara Mountains 687
Vvaccinations 1084-5Valley of the Kings 83Varela 347Victoria Falls 986,
1016-17, 11Vilankulo 860-1visas 1073-4Volubilis 128volunteering 1074voodoo 208Voodoo Festival 25Vwaza Marsh Wildlife
Reserve 832-3
WWa 328Wadi Halfa 152Wadi Medani 156Wagagai 729war zones 1071Watamu 619-20water, drinking 1091water sports 417 Waterberg Plateau Park
893-4waterfalls
Cascade de Womé 465Chutes de la Karera 549Chutes de la Lobé 256Chutes du Zongo 505 Kalambo Falls 991Karfiguéla Waterfalls 230Kongou Falls 533Kota Falls 212Kpatawee waterfall 360La Cascade 280Metchum Falls 254Murchinson Falls 739Sipi Falls 730Tanougou Falls 213Victoria Falls 986, 11Wli Falls 314-15
1120
INDEX W
- Z
weaving 314, 325Wechiau 328-9West Bank, Luxor 86Western Desert 74Western Sahara 120whale watching 813white-water rafting 23,
727, 966Wild Coast, South Africa
926wildebeest 1061wildlife 466, 1058-62wildlife sanctuaries
Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary 732
Cercopan 403Chimfunshi WildlifeOrphanage 992Crescent Island 607Drill Ranch 403Khama Rhino
Sanctuary 760Limbe Wildlife Centre
249 Lola Ya Bonobo
Sanctuary 505Mlilwane Wildlife
Sanctuary 966Mokolodi Nature
Reserve 760Mosi-oa-Tunya Game
Park 986Mvog-Betsi Zoo 239Nata Bird Sanctuary 761 Ngamba IslandChimpanzee
Sanctuary 726Parc National des
Oiseaux Du Djoudj 432
Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary 450
Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary 314
Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary 328-9
Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary 738-9
wildlife viewing 34, 642-3, 645
Botswana 754Central African
Republic 474Congo 483Democratic Republic of
Congo 497Djibouti 559Egypt 79Kenya 625Namibia 875practicalities 1059São Tomé & Príncipe 542South Sudan 654Swaziland 962, 966Tanzania 711Uganda 732-5, 738,
739, 744Zambia 983-4, 985,
989-90, 994Zimbabwe 1014, 1021
Windhoek 878-82, 880-1Wli Falls 314-15Wolof 1101women 431, 1038-9women travellers 1074-5
Egypt 96Gabon 537Tunisia 168, 194
work 1075World Heritage Sites see
Unesco World Heritage Sites
Wum 254WWII 1032
XXhosa language 1102
YYamoussoukro 278-9Yaoundé 239-45, 242, 244
accommodation 239-43drinking 243food 243sights 239tourist information 243travel to/from 244-5travel within 245
Yekepa 360yellow fever 300, 1089-90
vaccinations 1091
ZZagora 133-4Zakouma National Park 481Zambezi River 1009, 1021,
1052Zambia 975-98, 976-7
accommodation 975, 994
budgeting 979climate 975embassies 995highlights 976-7history 992-3
safety 996travel to/within 996-8visas 996
Zanzibar 676-86, 678-9Zanzibar Town 676-8zebras 35, 1061, 14
Kenya 607-8Malawi 831, 841, 842Namibia 882, 887,
889, 891South Africa 933Swaziland 966Uganda 740Togo 466Zambia 986
Ziguinchor 433, 436Zimbabwe 999-1024,
1000accommodation 999,
1021budgeting 1001climate 999culture 1017-20embassies 1021food 999highlights 1000history 1018-19holidays 1022travel to/within 1023visas 1022
zoos, see wildlife Zulu 1102-3
people 932-3sites 933
Zululand 932-4 Zwedru 360
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1121N
OTES
1122
NO
TES
1123N
OTES
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