410

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: A Alejandro Chehebar, Andrew Hart, Andrew Selth, Ann Tennant, Anna Kurihara, Anna Reilly, Anthoula Madden, Åsta Skjervøy, Axel Bruns B Birney Mae Smith C Cameron Potts, Charlotte McWilliam, Chris Howard, Chris Thomas, Chris-tian Stegen, Clifford Roberts, Colin Merrilees, Connie Van den Bergh D Dace Berg, Daniel Atzbach, Danielle Van Melle, Daniëlle Wolbers, David Brown, David Holdorf, Dona Chilcoat E Eddie Joseph, Elise Silber, Elizabeth Goofers, Eric Neemann, Erik & Davina, Erin McNeaney, Evert van Leerdam F Francis Geldart, Francis Lu, Frederik J Jurriaanse G Gerri Lee George, Giorgia Paoloni, Gretchen Powers H Haim Borovski, Hanne van Lier, Helen Bonser, Helen Jackson, Henk Hollaar, Henning Siegert I Ian Brown J Jakob Heinemann, Jan Kline, Janet Clements, Jean Roberts, Jeannie Browne, Jelmar ter Beek, Joanne Steele, Johan Dittrich Hallberg, Johan Kruseman, John Fleming, Joshua Saul, Juan Gallardo, Judah Labovitz, Juliet Purssell K Karen Butcher, Kath Gardiner, Katharine Gordon, Kerry O’Boyle L Laurence McAdam, Laurie McLean, Lieve Vanhoecke, Limmer Klaus M Marie Catignani, Mark Tewari, Mark Thomas, Marlies Reimering, Marvin Lee,

Matthew Sample, Michael Haring, Michael Wynne, Monica Villarindo N Natascha Möller, Neal Irvine, Nicolai Reimann, Niels de Pous O Orly Flax P Patrick Wheeler, Paul Rank, Peggy Lange, Peter Kabell Nissen, Peter Smith, Phil Sutcliffe, Philadelphia Stockwell, Pia Pedersen, Priya Koel Q Qian Xiaoyan R Richard Cohan, Robert Dewar, Robert Martyniecki S Sabine Gerull, Safia Weeks, Sandra Rosenhouse, Sarah Robinson, Stephen Barker, Steven Lin, Susan Johnson, Suzanne Jacob T Thierry Boitier, Tim Blight, Timothy Pink, Tino Onandia, Tobias Feld, Tracy Hammerstrom U Ur Omry Y Yannicke Gerretsen, Yin Naing Z Zsombor Barta

AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors and the following: William Myatwunna, Thant Myint-U, Edwin Briels, Jessica Mudditt, Greg Klemm, Vicky Bowman, Marcus Allender, Tun Lin Htaik (Tom Tom), Andrea Martini Rossi, Amelie Chan, Aung Soe Min, Wanna Aung, Allison Morris, Pete Silverster, New Ni Thien (Nina), Soe Moe Aung, Nay Aung, Patrick Kyaw Khin, Patrick Winn and Sean Turnell.

Austin BushI’d like to thank LPers for Life Ilaria Walker and Bruce Evans, and the very accommodating carto Diana Von Holdt. In Myanmar, I owe a lot

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES411

to, in no special order, Ko Htay Aung and Ko Win Naing; Thu Thu; Ni Ni Htun and family; U Myint Thoung; William and Ohn Mar; Sai Leng, Song and family; Naing Naing; the kind guys of the Regional Guides Society – Mrauk U; Phu Phu, Pauksa and U Aung Soe; Mr An-tony; MiMi Aye; and Aung Kyaw Kyaw, Captain Herbert and Janis Vougioukas.

David EimerMuch gratitude to Htwe Htwe in Hsipaw for tips and transport and to Moe in Bhamo for his guidance. Thanks to Simon Richmond for his patience, and to Ilaria Walker and Diana Von Holdt at Lonely Planet. As ever, thanks to everyone who passed on advice along the way, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

Mark ElliottThank you Bo Thin, Thuang Nai U, Yeh Tut, Aung Aung, Mei Kyo Win, Bhikku Tilawka, Mr Bamaw, Mr Mango, San San Ee, Nang at Mya Kyauk, Guneikssara at Masoe, Pyu Papa Myu, Thanthanini, Aung Aung, Myothu and the RQ gang, Ko Zaw, Carolyn, Jeremy, Zach, Thomas and Lisbeth, Tina Friedman, Dan, Iain and Cheryl. Special thanks to Harriet Einsiedel and to my unbeatable family.

Nick RayA big thanks to the people of Myanmar, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to be. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts in Myanmar who have helped shape my knowledge and experience in this country, particularly Win Zaw, May Thu and Philippe. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar Sotho, and children, Ju-lian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the occasional adventure would not be possible.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Illustration pp48-9 by Michael Weldon Cover photograph: Bagan. Felix Hug/

Getty ©

THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Myanmar (Burma) guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Mark Elliott and Nick Ray. This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel-bourne office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editor Ilaria WalkerCoordinating Editors Andrea Dobbin, Amanda WIlliamsonSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Jessica RoseManaging Editor Sasha BaskettSenior Editor Catherine NaghtenAssisting Editors Katie Connolly, Bruce Evans,

Carly Hall, Kate James, Jodie MartireAssisting Cartographer James Leversha Cover Research Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Anita Banh, Brendan Dempsey, Samantha Forge, James Hardy, Anna Harris, Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews, Virginia Moreno, Stephen Nolan, Luna Soo, Angela Tinson

412

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AA Myint 150 accommodation 16, 24,

380, 388, 404 see also individual locations

activities 17, 19-20, see also individual activities

air travel 390-2, 391airlines 390, 392airports 390

Akauk Taung 164Alaungpaya 317, 318Amarapura 248-9, 248-9amoebic dysentery 401amusement parks

Happy Zone 51Kyet Minn Nyi Naung

Amusement Park 154National Landmarks

Garden 262-3Natural World Amusement

Park 51Ananda Ok Kyaung 174 Ananda Pahto 174Ananda Pahto festival 19Anawrahta 151, 167, 318Andaw Paya 304animals 373-6, see also

individual animalsArakan forest turtles 374archaeological zones,

see also individual archaeological sites

Bagan 132, 170-82Bago 83-5, 82Hanlin 287 Mandalay 223-32, 224,

228-9Mrauk U 303-7, 302Nyaung U 182

architecture 59, 365-7, see also colonial architecture

area codes 15

art galleries, see museums & galleries

arts 367-72ATMs 28Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya 267Aung San, Bogyoke

(General) 319-21 Aung San Suu Kyi 342-7Ayeyarwady River 179, 288-9Ayeyarwady, Upper 275-88

BBagan 10, 16, 33, 128-44,

165-82, 131, 134, 137, 142, 10

accommodation 128, 133central plain 176-8climate 128, 165food 128highlights 131, 166history 129, 166-7,

169-70, 171information 130itineraries 167Myinkaba area 178-9new Bagan area 141-4,

180, 142north plain 173-6Nyaung U area 182old Bagan 170-3south plain 180-1temples 10, 33, 165-82,

166, 168-9, 10travel seasons 128, 165travel to/from 129views 165weather 128, 165

Bagan Archaeological Zone 132, 170-182

Bagaya Kyaung 250Bago (Pegu) 81-6, 82ballooning 17, 20, 129, 138,

199, 232Bamar people 81, 316,

329-30bathrooms 388Bayinnaung 316-17, 318

beaches 33, 34Chaung Tha Beach 91-4Kan Thar Ya 295Maungmagan 115Myeik Archipelago

124-5, 123Ngapali Beach 293-8, 294Ngwe Saung Beach 94-6Setse 109

bedbugs 401beer 357, 360bees 401begging 32Bhamo (Banmaw) 280-2bicycle travel, see cyclingBilu Kyun 108birdwatching

Bird Island 94Indawgyi Wetland

Wildlife Sanctuary 280Inle Wetland Bird

Sanctuary 186Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife

Sanctuary 92Moeyungyi Wetlands 86Mt Victoria (Nat Ma

Taung) 309-10boat travel 17, 25-7,

393-4, 391Ayeyarwady River

179, 288-9Bagan 129Bilu Kyun 108Chaung Tha Beach 91-2Inle Lake 195Malikha River 290Moeyungyi Wetlands 86Myeik Archipelago

123-4, 123Ngwe Saung Beach 94-5Samkar 204Sittwe 301Tan Kyi 172Yangon 58

Bodhi Tataung 151bombs 386books 312, 371

border crossings 16, 390, 393, 391

Mae Sai (Thailand) 217Mae Sot (Thailand) 116Mong La (China) 215Ranong (Thailand) 127Ruili (China) 281

Botataung Paya 38, 41boxing 58Bridge on the River Kwai 110bribes 384bridges

Ava Bridge 254Friendship Bridge 116Gokteik Viaduct 267Magwe Bridge 164 U-Bein Bridge 248-9

Buddha relics 38, 46, 71, 84, 109, 151, 153, 160, 226, 297, 307, 338

Buddha statues 17, 83Aung Htu Kan Tha

Paya 267Bagan 174Bodhi Tataung 151Dawei 117Kyaingtong 211Loikaw 217Mandalay 229, 231 Mrauk U 307Myeik 121Nyaungshwe 188Pindaya 202Shwemyetman Paya 163Wethali 308Yangon 53, 55

Buddhism 313, 336-9Buddhist libraries

Bagaya Kyaung 249Ma Soe Yein Kyaung 230-1Mimalaung Kyaung 171Pitaka Taik (Mrauk U) 305Pitaka Taik (Old Bagan)

172Buddhist monasteries 338-9

Bagaya Kyaung 250

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

413IN

DEX B-C

Kya Kha Wain Kyaung 84Kyauk Kalap 114Kyo Aung Sanda 249Ma Soe Yein Kyaung

230-1Maha Aungmye Bonzan

(OK Kyaung) 251Mimalaung Kyaung 171Mya Kyauk monastery

235Myauk Myo 269Nga Hpe Kyaung

(Jumping Cat Monastery) 194

Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 108

Payagyi 117Poke Hpayone Paya 217Sasanayaunggyi

Kyaung 147Shinpinsarkyo Paya 147Shwe Baw Kyune 282-3Shwe In Bin Kyaung 230Shwenandaw Kyaung

225Snake Monastery 84-5Thingaza Kyaung 231Thiri Mingalarpon

Kyaung 218Youqson Kyaung 146

Buddhist temples 17, 338-9, 10

Abeyadana Pahto 179Ananda Pahto 174Andaw Paya

(Mrauk U) 304Andaw Paya

(Thandwe) 297Bawgyo Paya 270-1Botataung Paya 38, 41Bupaya 173Chaukhtatgyi Paya 53Dhammayangyi Pahto

176-7Dhammayazika Paya

180-1Dukkanthein Paya 304Eindawya Paya 227Gawdawpalin Pahto 170-1Gubyaukgyi 178Hintha Gon Paya 83Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw

276Htilominlo Pahto 175Kaba Aye Paya 55Kawmudaw Paya 154Kheng Hock Keong 45Kothaung Paya 305Kyaik-khauk Paya 80Kyaikmaraw Paya 109-10

Kyaikthanlan Paya 103Kyauk Daw Kyi 55Kyauktalon Taung 108Kyauktawgyi Paya 225-6Lawkananda Paya 180Leimyethna Pahto 181Lokananda Paya 300Maha Kalyani Sima 83-4Maha Wizaya Zedi 51

Mahabodhi Paya 173Mahamuni (Bahaman)

Paya 103Mahamuni Paya

(Mandalay) 228-30, Mahamuni Paya

(Wethali) 308Mahazedi Paya 84 Mann Paya 147Manuha Paya 178Meilamu Paya 54-5Mingalazedi Paya 178Mingun Paya 255Myasigon Paya 153-4Nagayon 179Nan Paya 178-9Nandamannya Pahto 181Nandaw Paya 297 Nga Hpe Kyaung

(Jumping Cat Monastery) 194

Ngahtatgyi Paya 53Nwa-la-bo Pagoda 107Pahtothamya 171Paya Thonzu 147Payagyi Paya 160Payathonzu 181Phaung Daw Oo Paya

194-5Pon Nya Shin Paya 253Popa Taung Kalat

Temple 145Pyathada Paya 178Sakyamanaung Paya 305Sanda Muhni Phara Gri

Kyaung Taik 307Sandaw Paya 297Seinnyet Ama Pahto 180Seinnyet Nyima

Paya 180Setkyathiha Paya 227Settayaw Paya 89Shinmokhti Paya 117Shittaung Paya 303-4Shwe Daza Paya 285-6Shwedagon Paya 9,

46-50, 48-9, 8-9Shwegugale Paya 84Shwegugyi 172Shwekyimyint Paya 227

Shwemawdaw Paya 83Shwemokhtaw Paya 88-9Shwesandaw Paya

(Bagan) 176Shwesandaw Paya

(Pyay; Prome) 160Shwesandaw Paya

(Taungoo) 153Shwesandaw Paya

(Twante) 78Shwethalyaung

Buddha 82-3Shwezedi Kyaung 300Shwezigon Paya 182Sittana Paya 180Snake Pagoda 256Somingyo Kyaung 179Sulamani Pahto 177Sule Paya 41Tagaung Mingala

Zeditaw 89Tan Kyi Paya 172Taung Kwe Paya 16, 217Thambula Pahto 181Thanboddhay Paya 151Thatbyinnyu Pahto 172Theindawgyi Paya 120Twenty-Eight Paya 89Uppatasanti Paya 156Win Sein Taw Ya 108Yadana Man Aung

Paya 186Yele Paya 80-1

budget 15, 28, 380, 382Burma–Siam Railway

109, 110Burmese language 403-9bus travel 394-5, 391business hours 385

Ccar travel 395-6

language 407safety 386

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesHpo Win Daung 152Kaw Ka Thawng Cave 113Kawgun Cave 113-14Kha-Yon Caves 110Kyanzittha Umin 182Mahapasana 55Myeik Archipelago

124-5, 123Peik Chin Myaung 267Rahanta cave temple 163Saddan Cave 114-15Shwe Ba Taung 152

Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave Pagoda 202, 207

Tilawkaguru 254Yathaypyan Cave 113-14

cell phones 387cemetaries

Lin Zin Kone Cemetery 254

Mogok 272Taukkyan War

Cemetery 77Thanbyuzayat War

Cemetery 109central Myanmar region 33,

128-9, 144-64, 165-82, 131, 149, 157, 161

accommodation 128climate 128food 128history 129travel seasons 128travel to/from 129weather 128

Chaung Tha Beach 91-4cheroot factories 195children, travel with 62,

380-1Chin people 330, 332Chin State 309-10Chin villages 310Chindwin River 150 Chinese temples

Chan Tak 263Jin Taw Yan Chinese

Temple 233Kheng Hock Keong 45

chinlone 366Christianity 341churches & cathedrals

All Saints’ Church 262Armenian Church of St

John the Baptist 43Christ the King Church

(Kalaw) 207Christ the King Church

(Loikaw) 219First Baptist Church 105Immanuel Baptist

Church 56Seventh Day Adventist

Church 263St Mary’s Cathedral 45 St Michael’s Catholic

Church 233St Patrick’s Cathedral

104St Paul’s Anglican

Church 284St Peter’s Cathedral 89

cinema, see films

414

INDEX C

-H

climate 14, 19-20, 14Bagan 128, 165central Myanmar 128eastern Myanmar 183Mandalay 221northern Myanmar 258southern Myanmar 97western Myanmar 291Yangon 36

colonial architecture 59, 366-7

Dawai 117Katha 283-4Kyaingtong 210Loi-mwe 213Mawlamyine 104Pyin Oo Lwin 263 Sagaing 254Yangon 37, 43-5, 46, 55,

56-7, 56-7constitution 327consulates 382courses

cooking 81, 130meditation 58, 232, 383

crafts 367-9credit cards 384crocodiles

Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife Sanctuary 92

Thaketa Crocodile Farm 81

cruising, see boat tripsculture 329-41currency 14, 384customs regulations 381-9cycling 17, 392-3

Inle Lake 198Khaung Daing 198language 407Mandalay 233, 233Yangon 56

DDalah 78dams 378dance 369dangers, see also safety

hitching 396northern Myanmar 260snakes 402 Yangon 74

Dargah of Bahadur Shah Zafar 51-2

Dawei 117-19, 118dengue fever 400Dhammayangyi Pahto

176-7disabilities, travellers

with 388diving 17, see also

snorkellingdangers 401Myeik Archipelago 122-3,

124-5, 126, 123, 13drinks 357, 359, 360, 405-6driving, see car travelDukkanthein Paya 304

Eeastern Myanmar 34, 183-

220, 184-5accommodation 183climate 183festivals & events 186food 183highlights 184-5travel restrictions 213,

214, 215weather 183

economics 32, 312-, 350-1electricity 384, 381-9elephants 33, 226, 232

Hsin Hpyu Daw 55-6Kyaukse 257Ngwe Saung Beach 95Taungoo 154

embassies 382emergencies

language 405telephone numbers 15

En people 213endangered species 374,

375environment 373-8environmental issues 375,

376-8ethnic groups 18, 327,

329-36, 354Bamar 81, 316, 329-30Chin 81, 330, 332 En 213Intha 331-2 Kachin 18, 81, 260, 331 Kayah 81, 216-20, 331-2 Kayan 18, 332-3 Kayin (Karen) 81, 332Lahu Akha 213Lishaw 213Lisu 260Loi 213Moken 122, 333Mon 18, 81, 316, 333

Naga 334 Palaung 213, 260Pyu 316Rakhine 81, 316, 334Rohingya 312-13, 335Shan 18, 81, 260, 334Wa 213, 260, 334-6

etiquette 48, 356, 361events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 15

Ffactories, see workshopsFar North, the 289-90ferries 394festivals & events 19-20

Bagan 182Chinese New Year 211Elephant Dance

Competition 257Fire-Balloon Festival

199-200Kakku Paya Pwe 219Lisu New Year 277Manao 277Mawdin Paya 90Mingun Nat 232Nat 340nat pwe 145paya pwe (Yangon) 58paya pwe (Mrauk U) 307Phaung Daw Oo Paya

186, 195Rakhine State Day 300Shwemawdaw Paya 85Taungbyone Nat Pwe

232Thadingyut 186, 232Thaipusam 58Thihoshin 147Thingyan (Water

Festival) 58, 117, 340Vesakha 89Waso 232

films 312, 372First Burmese Empire

315-16Five-Day Market 194floating gardens 195food 16, 17, 355-64, 382

courses 81, 130etiquette 356, 361glossary 361-4hygiene 401language 404-5noodles 358social enterprises 67street food 64

teahouses 69, 360vegetarians & vegans

360-1football (soccer) 366Friendship Bridge 116

Ggardens, see parks &

gardensGaungse Kyun (Shampoo

Island) 105gay travellers 382-3gems 272, 351geography 373giardiasis 401Gokteik Viaduct 267gold workshops 227golf courses

Mandalay 232Nyaung U 132Pyin Oo Lwin 263Yaytagon Golf Resort

256-7government 348-54Great Image of Hsu Taung

Pre 308 Gurney’s pitta 374

Hhamsa 84Hanlin 287-8Hanlin Archaeological

Zone 287health 399-402

traditional medicine 402vaccinations 399websites 399

heatstroke 401hepatitis 400hiking 17, 386

Hsipaw 271Inle Lake 195-6Kalaw 204-6Kyaukme 268Mt Kyaiktiyo

(Golden Rock) 100Mt Zwegabin 114Pindaya 202-3Popa Moutnain Park 145Putao 290safety 386

Hindu templesNathlaung Kyaung 171-2Sri Ganesh Temple 227Sri Kali 45-6Sri Varatha Raja

Perumal 45history 315-28

colonial Burma 317-20

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

415IN

DEX H-M

independent Burma

320-2junta years 322-7post-2010 election 327-8pre-colonial Burma

315-17hitching 396HIV 400holidays 385horse-drawn carriage rides

81, 130, 252, 264, 309hot-air ballooning, see

ballooningHpa-an 110-13, 111Hpan Pu Mountain 112Hpo Win Daung 152Hsipaw 12, 268-73, 270, 13Hukaung Valley Tiger

Reserve 375human rights 312-, 348-54

Iimmigration 388-9, 390In Phaw Khone 195 Indawgyi Lake 280Independence Day 19independent travel 27-8,

29-32influenza 400Inle Lake 9, 186, 193-9,

377-8, 187, 9activities 195-6sights 193-5travel to/from 197

Inle Wetland Bird Sanctuary 186

insect bites 401insurance 383insurgents 386internet access 383internet resources 15, 30

air tickets 392health 399

Intha people 331-2Inthein 193-4Inwa (Ava) 249-52, 250Inya Lake 54, 54Irrawaddy dolphins 92,

265, 375Irrawaddy River, see

Ayeyarwady RiverIslam 313, 341islands

Bilu Kyun 108Bird Island 94Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife

Sanctuary 92Myeik Archipelago 13,

122-5, 123

Pataw Padet Kyun 121Pyu Kyun 91

itineraries 21-2, 21-2

Jjaggery (palm sugar) 145Jaw Bum 279jellyfish 401Judson, Adoniram 105

KKachin people 18, 81,

260, 331Kakku 219Kalaw 11, 204-9, 205, 11Kan Thar Ya 295Kanbawzathadi Palace 84Katha 283-4Kawthoung 125-7Kayah people 216-20, 331-2Kayah State 216-20Kayan people 18, 81, 332-3Kayin (Karen) people

81, 332Kayin State 110-16Kipling, Rudyard 46,

102, 103Kitti’s hog-nosed bat 374Kothaung Paya 305Kuthodaw Paya 227Kyaikkami 109Kyaikmaraw 109-10Kyaikthanlan Paya 103Kyaingtong 210-14, 211Kyaukme 268Kyaukmyaung 285Kyaukse 257

Llacquerware 17, 368

Kyaingtong 213Myinkaba 140-1New Bagan (Bagan

Myothit) 144Lahu Akha people 213lakes

Indawgyi Lake 280Inle Lake 9, 186, 193-9,

377-8, 187, 9Inya Lake 54, 54Kandawgyi 108Kandawgyi Lake 51, 154Lake Meiktila 159Nga Ka Pwe Taung 164Taungthaman Lake

248-9language 403-9Lashio 275

Leaf deer 374leeches 401legal matters 383lesbian travellers 382-3lice 401liquors 357, 359Lishaw people 213Lisu New Year 277Lisu people 260literature 312, 371Loi people 213Loikaw 216-20

MMae Wunna 146Magwe 164Mahabandoola Garden 43Mahamuni (Bahaman)

Paya 103Mahamuni Paya

(Mandalay) 228-30Mahamuni Paya

(Wethali) 308Maing Thauk 195malaria 400Manao Festival 277Mandalay 221-47, 222,

224, 228-9, 233accommodation 232,

234-7activities 232climate 221cycling tour 233 drinking & nightlife

240-1entertainment 241-2festivals & events 232food 237-41highlights 222history 223information 243meditation 232religious structures 221shopping 242-3sights 223-32street names 223tours 233, 247-8travel seasons 221travel to/from 243-5travel within 246-7views 221weather 221

Mandalay fortress 226Mandalay Hill 223-5Mandalay Palace 226Mandalay region 34, 221,

223, 247-57, 222, 248, 250, 253, 255

maps 383

marionettes 17, 369markets 17

Bogyoke Aung San Market 73

Central Market (Hsipaw) 269, 13

Central Market (Kyaingtong) 210

Central Market (Pyay) 160

Central Market (Pyin Oo Lwin) 265

Central Market (Sittwe) 298

Floating Market 194Gems Market 56Inle Lake (Five-Day

Market) 194Jade Market 227Kalaw 204Mani-Sithu 136Mensen 274Mingala

(Nyaungshwe) 186 Mingala Zei

(Yangon) 74Mogok 272Morning Market 111Night Market 90Produce Market

(Hsipaw) 269Produce Market

(Myitkyina) 276Sake Nyein Zei 121 Theingyi Zei 73 Zegyo 242

martial arts 366massages 58, 188Maungmagan Beach 115mausoleums 51-3Mawdin Point 90Mawlamyine 12, 102-6,

102, 104, 12measures 384medical services 400meditation courses 383

Bagan 130Mandalay 232Mawlamyine 108Salay 147Yangon 53, 58

Meiktila 158-9Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife

Sanctuary 17, 92Mensen 274Mindon Min 318Mingun 255-6, 255Mingun Paya 255mining 378mobile phones 387

416

INDEX M

-P

Moeyungyi Wetlands 86Mogok 272Moken people 122, 333Mon people 18, 316, 333Mon State 98, 98-110money 14, 15, 28, 383-4Mong La 214-16monkeys 385Monywa 148-50, 149motorcycle travel 395-6mountain climbing 17, 98Mrauk U 10, 16, 302-9,

302, 11accommodation 307-8fees 304festivals & events 307food 308history 302-3information 309shopping 309sights 303-7travel to/from 309travel within 309

Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 12, 98, 100-1, 12

Mt Popa 144-6Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)

309-10Mt Zwegabin 114museums & galleries

Archaeological Museum 138

Bagaya Kyaung 249Bogyoke Aung San

Museum 53Cultural Museum

(Kyaingtong) 211 Cultural Museum

(Nyaungshwe) 186 Cultural Museum &

Library (Mandalay) 228

Kachin State Cultural Museum 277

Kayah Cultural Museum 219

Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi 299

Mon Cultural Museum 103, 105

Museum in Commemoration of Opium-Free in Special Region 215

Myanmar Gems Museum 56

National Landmarks Garden 262-3

National Museum 41-3Palace Museum 306Rakhine State Cultural

Museum 299Shan State Cultural

Museum & Library 199Sri Ksetra Museum 162-3Taungoo Museum 154Thanakha Gallery 132Yangon 72

music 370-1Myawaddy 115-16Myanmar snub-nosed

monkey 374Myeik 119-22, 120Myeik Archipelago 13,

122-5, 123, 13activities 122-4

Myinkaba 140-1Myitkyina 276-9Myit-Son 279

NNaga people 334Namhsan 273-4Nampan 195Nanmyin 250nat 144-5, 339-40nat pwe 145 National Kandawgyi

Gardens 262, 11National League for

Democracy 323-5, 346, 349-50

National Museum 41-3national parks & reserves

376, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Hkakabo Razi National Park 289

Moeyungyi Wetlands 86Mt Victoria (Nat Ma

Taung) 309-10Popa Mountain Park 145

National Races Village 81natural resources 378Nay Pyi Taw 156-8, 157New Bagan (Bagan

Myothit) 141-4, 180, 142newspapers 384Ngapali Beach 293-8, 294Ngwe Saung Beach 94-6noodles 358northern Myanmar 34,

258-90, 259accommodation 258climate 258

ethnic minorities 260food 258highlights 259travel restrictions

260, 277travel seasons 258weather 258

Nwa-la-bo Pagoda 107Nyaung U 130, 132-7, 134Nyaungshwe 186-92,

188-9accommodation 188-91activities 188drinking &

entertainment 192eating 191-2information 192sights 186-8sleeping & eating 196-8travel to/from 192-3travel within 193

OOld Bagan 137-40, 137opening hours 15, 385Orwell, George 102, 283-4

Ppagodas, see Buddhist

templespainting 367Pakokku 147-8palaces

Bagan Golden Palace 138

Kanbawzathadi Palace 84

Mandalay Palace 226Mrauk U 306 Shan Palace 269Shwebon Yadana 286 Wethali 308

Palaung 18Paleik 256Paletwa 310Panglong Agreement 321parasols 17, 88parks & gardens, see also

national parks & reserves, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Cape Bayint Naung 125Mahabandoola

Garden 43National Kandawgyi

Gardens 262, 11National Landmarks

Garden 262-3National Races Village 81

People’s Park 51Water Fountain

Garden 157Yangon Zoological

Gardens 53passports 388-9, 390Pathein 86-91paya, see Buddhist templesPaya Pwe 19Payagyi 152Peik Chin Myaung 267permits 23-4, see also

travel restrictions, visasChindwin River 150Inle Lake 186Mawdin Point 90 Mogok 272 Paletwa 310Putao 260Mt Victoria (Nat

Ma Taung) 309petrol 384photography 385pick-up trucks 396Pindaya 202-4Pinya 256planning 23-8

Ayeyarwady River 288-9budgeting 14-15calendar of events 19-20children 62, 380-1costs 380, 382internet resources 15, 30itineraries 21-2, 21-2, Myanmar basics 14-15Myanmar’s regions 33-4repeat visitors 16responsible travel 29-32travel seasons 14-15,

19-20travel to/from 390travel within 390-8, 391

plants 375-6politics 312, 348-50, 386Popa Mountain Park 145population 312-13, 329-41postal services 385prickly heat 401public holidays 385public transport 396puppet shows 242 puppets 17, 369Putao 290Pwe Kauk Falls 267Pyay (Prome) 160-2, 161Pyin Oo Lwin 11, 260-6,

261, 11accommodation 263-4activities 263, 264

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

417IN

DEX P-W

drinking & nightlife 265food 264-5information 266shopping 265sights 262-3travel to/from 266travel within 266

Pyu people 316

Rrabies 400radio 384Rakhine people 81, 316,

334Rakhine State 293-309rashes 401reforms 312-14religion 313, 336-8, 354religious relics 38, 46,

109, 151, 153, 160, 226, 307, 338

responsible travel 29-32Rohingya people 312-13,

335rubies 272, 351

Ssafety 385-6, see also

dangers‘Saffron Revolution’ 325-6Sagaing 252-5, 253Sakyamanaung Paya 305Salay 146-7Samkar 204Sanda Muhni Phara Gri

Kyaung Taik 307scams 386sculpture 367sea gypsies 122sea turtles 90 Second Burmese Empire

316-17Shan people 18, 81, 260,

334Shan Palace 16, 269Shittaung Paya 303-4shopping, 33-4, 405-6, see

also individual locationsShwe Baw Kyune 282-3Shwe Sar Umbrella

Workshop 88Shwebo 285-7, 286Shwedagon Paya 9, 46-50,

48-9, 8-9Shwedaung 163Shwegu 282-3Shwemawdaw Paya 83Shwemokhtaw Paya 88-9

Shwesandaw Paya (Bagan) 176

Shwesandaw Paya (Taungoo) 153

Shwethalyaung Buddha 82-3

Shwezigon Paya 182Sinbo 279-80Sittwe 298-302, 299snakes 385, 402snorkelling

Chaung Tha Beach 91Myeik Archipelago 123-4Ngapali Beach 294Ngwe Saung Beach 95

southern Myanmar region 33, 97-127, 99

accommodation 97climate 97food 97highlights 99, 131Kayin State 110-16Mon State 98-109Tanintharyi Region

116-27travel restrictions 98travel to/from 98weather 97

spas 58, 141Spirulina 151-2, 153sport 366street food

Mandalay 238street names

Mandalay 223Myitkyina 278Yangon 38

stupas 338-9, 365, see also Buddhist temples

Sulamani Pahto 177Sule Paya 41swimming

Inle Lake 198Mandalay 232Yangon 56

TTachileik 216Tanintharyi Region 116-27tap water 400tapestries 368-9Tatmadaw 324Taukkyan War Cemetery 77Taung Kwe Paya 217Taungbyone Nat Pwe 20Taunggok 297Taunggyi 199-202, 199Taungoo 153-6taxis 396

Tazaungdaing 20tea 357, 360teahouses 69, 360telephone services 14, 387temples, see Bagan

temples, Buddhist monasteries, Buddhist temples, Chinese temples, Hindu temples

textiles 368-9Thaketa Crocodile Farm 81thanakha 287Thanboddhay Paya 151Thandwe 297Tharabar Gate 172 Thaung Thut 195Thayekhittaya 162-3Thazi 210theatre 369Thingyan (Water Festival)

340Third Burmese Empire 317ticks 401tigers 289, 375time 387

language 406tipping 384toddy 145toilets 388tourist information 388tours 397, see also boat

travel, cycling, walking tours

agencies 27boats 288-9cycling 233, 393hiking 290Mandalay 247-8Mt Victoria (Nat Ma

Taung) 310Putao 290

traditional medicine 402train travel 24-5, 75, 397-8,

391transport 390, 406-7, 391

road distance chart 395 travel to/from Myanmar

390travel within 390-78

travel agencies 27travel restrictions, see also

permits, visasChin State 309eastern Myanmar 213,

214, 215northern Myanmar 277Sittwe 301southern Myanmar 98Tachileik 214western Myanmar 293

travel seasons, see also individual regions

Bagan 128, 165central Myanmar 128eastern Myanmar 183Mandalay 221southern Myanmar 97western Myanmar 291Yangon 36

travel to/from Myanmar 16, 390

travel within Myanmar 15, 390-8

travellers cheques 384traveller’s diarrhoea 400-1travelling within Myanmar

24-6trekking, see hikingTripitaka 227turtles 90, 92, 374TV 384Twante 78Twin Daung 151-2typhoid 400

UU-Bein Bridge 248-9 Upali Thein 174-5

Vvacations 385vegetarian & vegan

travellers 360-1visas 14, 23, 388-9, see

also permits, travel restrictions

volunteering 31-2, 100, 389

WWa people 213, 260, 334-6Wabo 301walking, see hikingwalking tours

Mawlamyine 104, 104Yangon 56-7, 57

wasps 401water 400Water Festival

(Thingyan) 20waterfalls

Anisakan Falls 266Popa Mountain Park 145Pwe Kauk Falls 267

weather 14, 19-20Bagan 128, 165central Myanmar 128eastern Myanmar 183Mandalay 221

418

INDEX W

-Z

weather continuednorthern Myanmar 258southern Myanmar 97Yangon 36

weaving 195, 271, 301websites, see internet

resourcesweights 384western Myanmar region

34, 291-310, 292accommodation 291climate 291food 291highlights 292history 293travel restrictions 293travel seasons 291weather 291

Wethali 308white-water rafting 290wildlife 374-5, see also

individual species wildlife reserves &

sanctuaries 376, see also national parks & reserves, parks & gardens

Hukaung Valley Tiger Reserve 289, 375

Indawgyi Wetland Wildlife Sanctuary 280

Inle Wetland Bird Sanctuary 186

Maungmagan 115Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife

Sanctuary 16, 17, 92Moeyungyi Wetlands 86Nay Pyi Taw Safari Park

156-7 Tiger Corridor 375

wine 357, 359wineries

Myanmar Vineyard 199Red Mountain Estate 186

women in Myanmar 336women travellers 389women’s health 402workshops

cheroot 195, 271gold 227, 242lacquerware 140-1,

144, 213marble 230noodle making 271parasols 88, 242

pottery 285silk 242-3, 249silver 254 weaving 195, 271

WWII monumentsMeiktila 159Taukkyan 77

WWII sites 320

YYangon 37-79, 39, 40-1,

44-5, 50-1, 54, 57accommodation 36,

59-63activities 56, 58climate 36courses 58drinking & nightlife 70-1entertainment 71-2festivals & events 58food 36, 63-9highlights 39history 37-8information 74-5itineraries 37shopping 73-4sights 38, 41-56

street names 38travel seasons 36travel to/from 76-8travel within 78-9walking tour 56, 56-7weather 36

Yangon Circle Line 75Yangon Heritage Trust 31,

45, 60, 367Yangon region 33,

79-81, 80Yangon–Bagan Highway

160-3Yangon–Mandalay Highway

153-9Yedagon Hills 256Yettaw, John 346Youqson Kyaung 146Ywama 194

Zzedi (stupas) 338-9, 365zoos

Mandalay 227-8Nay Pyi Taw 156-7Yangon Zoological

Gardens 53

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

419N

OTES

420

NO

TES

421N

OTES

422

NO

TES

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