Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/venice-the-veneto-10-index.pdf · Campanile 57 Campo dei Mori 113, 86 canals 9, 8, 25 Cannaregio 47, 107-18, 107,

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Behind the Scenes

OUR READERSMany thanks to Lisa Bradshaw, Dawn Jonas and Sheila Penfold who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interest-ing anecdotes.

WRITER THANKSPaula HardyGrazie mille to all the fun and fashionable Vene-tians who spilled the beans on their remarkable city: Paola dalla Valentina, Costanza Cecchini, Sara Porro, Lucia Cattaneo, Monica Cesarato, Francesca Giubilei, Luca Berta, Marco Secchi and Nan McElroy. Thanks, too, to co-authors Peter and Marc for their contributions, and to Anna Tyler for all the support. Finally, much love to Rob for shar-ing the beauty of the bel paese.

Peter DragicevichIt turns out that it’s not hard to find willing vol-unteers to keep you company on an extended research assignment in Venice, especially when it coincides with Carnevale. Many thanks to my Venice crew of Christine Henderson, Hamish Blen-nerhassett and Sarah Welch for much masked fun and many good meals. Special thanks to Christine for the unpaid but much appreciated translation services.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSIllustration pp60-61 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.Cover photograph: Gondolas and the Bridge of Sighs at dusk. Matteo Colombo / AWL ©

255©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Venice & the Veneto guidebook was researched and written by Paula Hardy, Peter Dragicevich and Marc Di Duca. The previous two editions were written by Cristian Bonetto and Paula Hardy. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Anna TylerProduct Editors Ross Taylor, Catherine NaghtenSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Michelle Coxall, Grace Dobell, Shona Gray, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Monique

Perrin, Martine Power, Sarah Reid, Gabrielle Stefanos, Fionnuala TwomeyCartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaAssisting Book Designer Virginia MorenoCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Hannah Cartmel, Kate Mathews, Anne Mason, Amanda Williamson

256

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

IndexAaccommodation 15, 184-96,

see also Sleeping subindex, individual locations

activities 20-1, 39, see also Sports & Activities subindex, individual activities

air travel 238-9Allegrini (Valpolicella) 182ambulance 245Antico Cimitero Israelitico 141antiques 42architecture 24, 158-9, 213-

22, 220-1area codes 247Arsenale 121-2, 282, 121arsenalotti 128art courses 67artisans 12, 41, 12arts 24, 223-33 see also

craftsAsolo 173Azienda Agricola Barichel

(Valdobbiadene) 172Azienda Agricola Coffele

(Soave) 182Azienda Agricola Frozza

(Colbertaldo di Vidor) 172

Bbars 19Bartolomeo Colleoni Statue

130Basilica dei SS Maria e

Donato 151Basilica di San Marco 50-2,

221, 52, 5, 6-7, 50, 220Basilica di San Pietro di

Castello 129-30

Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta 150, 150

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute 76-7, 221, 220

Basilica di Sant’Anastasia (Verona) 177

Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 165-6

Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore (Verona) 176

Basilica Palladiana 159Basilica Palladiana

(Vicenza) 169Bassano del Grappa 173bathrooms 247beaches 19, 143bicycle travel, see cyclingBiennale di Venezia 11, 20,

39, 11boat travel 243, see

also cruises, gondola rides, vaporetti

boats 18-19boating 25, 162books 198, 200, 201, 208Burano 47, 148-9, 148,

286, 3accommodation 196food 154-5drinking 156shopping 157sights 152

bus travel 238-9business hours 28, 38,

42, 246

CCa’ Dario 79Ca’ Pesaro 93-4calli 86-7, 86-7Campanile 57Campo dei Mori 113, 86canals 9, 8, 25Cannaregio 47, 107-18,

107, 274accommodation 192-3activities 118

drinking 115-16entertainment 116-17food 112-15highlights 107, 109-11nightlife 115-16shopping 117-18sights 109-12sports 118transport 108

Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua) 163-5

car travel 240-1, 243Ca’Rezzonico 76Carnevale 20, 3Casa dei Tre Oci 139Casa di Carlo Goldoni 96Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 178Casanova, Giacomo 209Castello 47, 119-35, 119,

280-1accommodation 193-4activities 135drinking 133entertainment 134food 130-3highlights 119, 121-5nightlife 133shopping 134-5sights 121-30sports & activities 135transport 120walks 127, 127

Castello di Soave 181cell phones 14, 247changing money 246Chiesa dei Gesuati 77-8Chiesa dei Scalzi 112Chiesa del Santissimo

Redentore 139-40Chiesa della Madonna

dell’Orto 111Chiesa di San Francesco

della Vigna 126-8Chiesa di San Geremia 112Chiesa di San Giacomo

dell’Orio 95Chiesa di San Giorgio dei

Greci 128Chiesa di San Giorgio

Maggiore 138, 138Chiesa di San Giovanni in

Bragora 130Chiesa di San Lio 129Chiesa di San Martino

(Castello) 130, Chiesa di San Martino

(Burano) 152Chiesa di San Moisè 63Chiesa di San Nicolò dei

Mendicoli 80Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

151-2Chiesa di San Polo 96Chiesa di San Rocco 94Chiesa di San Salvador 63Chiesa di San Sebastiano 77Chiesa di San Stae 96Chiesa di San Vidal 63Chiesa di San Zaccaria 125-6Chiesa di San Zulian 63Chiesa di Santa Caterina 152Chiesa di Santa Fosca 153Chiesa di Santa Maria dei

Miracoli 111, 221, 220-1Chiesa di Santa Maria del

Giglio 59-63Chiesa di Santa Maria

Formosa 129Chiesa di Sant’Eufemia 140Chiesa di Santo Stefano 58-9children, travel with 22-3cicheti 28, 115, 27Cimitero di San Michele 151cinema 38-9climate 15coffee 34-5Conegliano 172costs 28, 185, 244-5, 247costume hire 116courses

art 67cooking 30, 145crafts 117language 104

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P259

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P260

3 ENTERTAINMENT P261

7 SHOPPING P261

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P262

4 SLEEPING P262

257©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

crafts 146-7, 146, 147credit cards 246cruises 25currency 14cycling 39, 141, 161, 180,

243

Ddance 38desserts 19disabilities, travellers

with 248discount cards 24, 244-5Dorsoduro 46-7, 71-85, 71,

276-7, 87accommodation 188-90drinking & nightlife 81-2entertainment 82-3food 78-81highlights 71, 73-6, 78nightlife 81-2shopping 83-5sights 73-8transport 72-85

drinking & nightlife 33-6, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

drinks 34, 33Duomo (Padua) 166Duomo (Verona) 177

Eeconomy 198-9electricity 245emergencies 245entertainment 37-40, see

also Entertainment, individual neighbourhoods

environmental issues 199, 234-6

ethnicity 199events 20-1

Ffashion 19Festa della Madonna della

Salute 20festivals 20-1films 231-2Fondazione Giorgio Cini 139Fondazione Prada 95

Fondazione Querini Stampalia 126

Fondazione Vedova 78food 27-32, 18, 27, see

also Eating sub-index, individual neighbourhoods

cooking courses 30etiquette 30-1money 28opening hours 28self-catering 30vegan 30vegetarian 30

free attractions 24

GGalleria d’Arte Moderna

Achille Forti (Verona) 175Galleria Giorgio Franchetti

alla Ca’ d’Oro 111-12Gallerie dell’Accademia 9,

73-4, 9gay travellers 245Ghetto 109-10Giardini Pubblici 124, 282Giardino Giusti (Verona)

175Giotto 11Giudecca 47, 136-7, 136,

283accommodation 194-6food 142-3sights 139-40

Giudecca 795 140glass 146, 146-7glass-blowing 12, 12gondolas 9, 240, 242-3, 25Grand Canal 60-1, 60-61

Hhistory 200-12

books 201holidays 247

II Frari 92I Gesuiti 112Il Gobbo 96international calls 247internet access 245Isola della Certosa 154, 156Isola di San Francesco del

Deserto 153Isola di San Lazzaro degli

Armeni 141Isola di San Michele 151Isola di San Servolo 140-1

itineraries 16-17

Jjogging 39

Kkayaking 25, 157

LLa Pietà 130La Rotonda (Vicenza) 159,

169, 158-9La Spezieria all’Ercole

d’Oro 112lace 147, 147lagoon 234-6language 14language courses 104Le Vignole 154Le Zitelle 140legal matters 246lesbian travellers 245Lido di Jesolo 155Lido di Venezia 47, 136-7,

136, 284 accommodation 194-6sights 140, 141-2, 143

literature 230-1

MMalamocco 141markets 19, 30Mazzorbo 152, 154-6measures 246medical services 245mobile flood barriers 235-6mobile phones 14, 247Monastero di San Lazzaro

degli Armeni 141money 14, 28, 38, 185, 246

discount cards 244-5monorail 240, 241, 243MOSE 235-6motorcycle travel 240-1Murano 47, 148-9, 148, 285

accommodation 196food 154shopping 156-7sights 151-2

Musei Civici agli Eremitani (Padua) 166

Museo Civico (Bassano del Grappa) 173

Museo Civico di Asolo (Asolo) 173

Museo Correr 57Museo del Manicomio 141Museo del Merletto 152

Museo del Risorgimento e dell’Età Contemporanea (Padua) 166

Museo del Vetro 151Museo delle Icone 128Museo di Castelvecchio

(Verona) 175Museo di Storia Naturale di

Venezia 95Museo di Torcello 153Museo Fortuny 58Museo Storico Navale 130Museo Wagner 112music 228-30

classical 37-8jazz 38opera 10, 37pop 38rock 38

NNegozio Olivetti 63newspapers 246nightlife, see drinking &

nightlifenorthern Islands 47, 148-9,

196, 148

Oopening hours 28, 34, 38,

42, 246opera 10, 37, 229Oratorio di San Giorgio

& Scoletta del Santo (Padua) 165

PPadua (Padova) 163-7, 164painting 223-8, 224Palazzo Chiericati

(Vicenza) 169-70Palazzo Cini 77Palazzo del Bò (Padua) 166Palazzo della Mostra del

Cinema 145Palazzo della Ragione

(Padua) 165Palazzo Ducale 7, 53-6, 221,

55, 7, 53, 56, 220Palazzo Franchetti 59Palazzo Grassi 59, 60Palazzo Grimani 125Palazzo Leoni Montanari

(Vicenza) 169Palazzo Mocenigo 94Palazzo Thiene (Vicenza)

170Palazzo Zuckermann

(Padua) 166


258

IND

EX C-P

Palladio, Andrea 158-9Palladio Museum 159Palladio Museum

(Vicenza) 170paper 146, 146Peggy Guggenheim

Collection 75Pellestrina 142, 143-5pharmacies 246photography 26Piazza delle Erbe (Verona)

177Piazza San Marco 57, 3Pieve di San Giorgio

(Valpolicella) 182-3Pineta degli Alberoni 142planning

budgeting 24, 28, 244-5children, travel with 22-3free shows 38itineraries 16-17opening hours 34repeat visitors 13tours 25-6Venice basics 14-15Venice budgeting 14Venice neighbourhoods

46-7Venice websites 14, 189

Poli Museo della Grappa (Bassano del Grappa) 173

police 245politics 198-9Ponte degli Alpini (Bassano

del Grappa) 173Ponte dei Sospiri 63, 8Ponte dell’Accademia 63Ponte delle Tette 103Ponte di Rialto 94, 61Ponte Pietra (Verona) 178population 199postal services 246-7Prato della Valle (Padua) 166prosecco 171-4, 33public holidays 247Punta della Dogana 78, 60

Rradio 246Rialto Market 93, 86-7Riva degli Schiavoni 129Riviera Brenta 161-3Rocca (Asolo) 173Roman Arena (Verona)

175, 37Roman Criptoportico

(Vicenza) 170rowing 25

Ssailing 25, 39San Marco 46, 48-70, 48,

266-7, 3accommodation 187-8drinking 65-6entertainment 66-7food 64-5highlights 48, 50-6,

57, 58nightlife 65-6shopping 67-70sights 50-64transport 49walks 62, 62

San Polo & Santa Croce 47, 88-106, 88, 270-1

accommodation 190-2drinking 99, 101entertainment 102food 96-9highlights 88, 90-3nightlife 99-101shopping 102-6transport 89walks 100, 100

Santa Croce 47, 88-106, 88, 270-1, 273

accommodation 190-2drinking 99, 101entertainment 102food 96-9highlights 88, 90-3nightlife 99, 101shopping 102-6transport 89walks 100, 100

Sant’Elena 129Sant’Erasmo 153-4Scala Contarini del Bovolo

59Scrovegni Chapel (Padua)

10, 11Scuola Dalmata di San

Giorgio Degli Schiavoni 125

Scuola Grande dei Carmini 77

Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista 94-5

Scuola Grande di San Marco 128-9

Scuola Grande di San Rocco 90-1, 90

shopping 19, 41-3, 147, see also Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods

smoking 246

Soave 181-2, 181southern Islands 47, 136-7,

194-6, 136souvenirs 147Squero di San Trovaso 82St Mark (San Marco) 202Suavia (Soave) 182

Ttaxes 42, 247Teatro La Fenice 10, 58, 10Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza)

159, 169, 159Teatro Romano e Museo

Archeologico (Verona) 178

telephone services 14, 247textiles 147theatre 38, 233tides 235time 14, 247Tintoretto 225, 8tipping 246Titian 224-5toilets 247Torcello 152-3, 156, 286Torre dei Lamberti

(Verona) 177Torre dell’Orologio 57-8tourist information 14,

247-8tours 25-6traghetti 240train travel 239-40travel cards 242travel to/from Venice 15,

238-41travel within Venice 15,

241-3TV 246

Vvacations 247Valpolicella 182-3, 12vaporetti 241-2vegan travellers 30vegetarian travellers 30Venice Biennale 11, 20,

39, 11Venice International Film

Festival 20Verona 174-80, 176, 37Vicenza 167-71, 168Villa Barchessa Valmarana

(Riviera Brenta) 161-2Villa della Torre

(Valpolicella) 182Villa di Masèr (Masèr)

159, 172

Villa Foscari (Riviera Brenta) 159, 161

Villa Foscarini Rossi (Riviera Brenta) 162

Villa Mosconi Bertani (Valpolicella) 182

Villa Pisani Nazionale (Riviera Brenta) 162

Villa Valmarana ‘ai Nani’ (Vicenza) 170

Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari (Riviera Brenta) 161

vineyards 12, 12visas 14, 248Vogalonga 20

Wwalks

Castello 127, 127San Marco 62, 62San Polo 100, 100Santa Croce 100, 100

water sports 39water taxis 239, 243weather 15websites 14, 189weights 246wine 12, 34, 35, 115, 157wineries 171-4, 182, 12, 181women travellers 248

ZZanipolo 123Zýmē (Valpolicella) 182

5 EATING

AAcqua e Mais 97Acquastanca 154Ai Mercanti 64Ai Promessi Sposi 113Ai Quattro Feri 80Al Castello (Conegliano) 174Al Covo 132Al Giardinetto da Severino

131al Mercà 143Al Pestello (Vicenza) 171Al Ponte di Borgo 143Al Ponte Storto 97Al Pontil Dea Giudecca 142Al Vecio Marangon 80Algiubagiò 114Alla Maddalena 155All’Arco 96

259IN

DEX E

AT

ING

Alle Corone 132Alle Due Gondolette 114Alle Testiere 132Anice Stellato 114Antica Besseta 97-8Antiche Carampane 98Antico Forno 97

BBar alla Toletta 79Belle Parti (Padua) 167Birraria La Corte 98Bistrot de Venise 65Busa alla Torre 154

CCaffè-Bar Palmisano 156Cantina Aziende Agricole

113Cip Ciap 131Cocaeta 113CoVino 131

DDa Codroma 79Dai Zemei 96Dalla Marisa 114Dalla Zita (Padua) 166-7Didovich 131

EEl Pecador 142Enoteca Ai Artisti 81Enoteca della Valpolicella

183Estro 79

FFrary’s 98

GGelateria Ca’ d’Oro 113Gelateria Il Doge 79Gelateria Ponte Pietra

(Verona) 179Gelato di Natura 96

HHarry’s Dolci 142-3Hostaria La Vecchia Fon-

tanina (Verona) 178-9

IIl Refolo 98Il Ridotto 132

LLa Favorita 143La Palanca 142La Taverna di Via Stella

(Verona) 179Le Spighe 131Local 131-2Locanda 4 Cuochi (Verona)

179Locanda Baggio da Nino

(Asolo) 174Locanda Cipriani 156Locanda Lo Scudo 183

MMagiche Voglie 143Marchini Time 64Mercato Settimanale del

Lido 143Met 132Muro San Stae 98

OOrient Experience II 78-9Osteria Ai Do Farai 79Osteria al Duomo 154Osteria alla Caneva (Bas-

sano del Grappa) 174Osteria alla Staffa 131Osteria Alla Vedova 114Osteria Boccadoro 114Osteria da Alberto 113Osteria da Carla 64Osteria Da Conte (Riviera

Brenta) 162Osteria da Rioba 114Osteria da Ugo (Verona) 179Osteria Dal Capo (Padua)

167Osteria dei Fabbri (Padua)

167Osteria di Santa Marina

132-3Osteria Il Cursore

(Vicenza) 171Osteria La Perla Ai Bisatei

154Osteria La Zucca 98Osteria L’Orto dei Mori 114Osteria Mocenigo 97Osteria Numero Uno 183Osteria Ruga di Jaffa 131Osteria Sottoriva (Verona)

179

Osteria Trefanti 97

PPane, Vino e San

Daniele 78Panificio Volpe Giovanni 113Pasticceria da Bonifacio 130Pasticceria Dal Mas 112Pasticceria Miozzi (Verona)

179Pasticceria Rizzardini 97Pasticceria Tonolo 78, 18Pescheria I Masenini

(Verona) 179-80

RRighetti Self Service

(Vicenza) 171Ristorante da Celeste

143-4Ristorante da Omar 155Ristorante Glam 99Ristorante La Bitta 80Ristorante Quadri 64-5Ristorante Ribot 98Ristoteca Oniga 80Riviera 80-1Rizzo 113Rosa Salva 64Rosticceria Gislon 64

SSacro E Profano 97Snack Bar Ai Nomboli 96-7Sòtobotega (Vicenza) 170Suso 64

TTrattoria ai Cacciatori 142Trattoria al Gatto Nero 155Trattoria alla Rampa del

Piave 131Trattoria alla Rivetta 131Trattoria Altanella 142Trattoria Caprini 183Trattoria Corte Sconta 132Trattoria da Bepi Già “54”

113-14Trattoria Da Fiore 65Trattoria da Ignazio 99Trattoria da Primo 155Trattoria Vini Da Arturo 65

VVenissa Osteria 154-5Venissa Ristorante 155Villa Cipriani (Asolo) 174Vini da Gigio 114

WWildner 132

ZZairo (Padua) 167

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

AAi Pugni 81Al Mercà 99Al Parlamento 116Al Portego 133Al Prosecco 99Antica Bottega del Vino

(Verona) 180Archivio (Verona) 180

BBacarando 66Bacareto Da Lele 101Bàcaro Jazz 66Bacaro Risorto 133Bagatela 116Bakarò 82Bar Borsa (Vicenza) 171Bar Dandolo 133Bar Longhi 65Bar Terrazza Danieli 133Barcollo 101Basegò 99Birre da Tutto il Mondo o

Quasi 116Black-Jack 66

CCafe Borsari (Verona) 180Café Noir 82Caffè Bar Ai Artisti 82Caffè Brasilia 65Caffè Centrale 66Caffè dei Frari 101Caffè del Doge 101Caffè Florian 65Caffè Lavena 66Caffè Pedrocchi 167Cantina Do Spade 99Cantinone Già Schiavi 81

DDa Cri Cri e Tendina 144Do Mori 99Dodo Caffè 116


260

IND

EX DR

INK

ING

& N

IGH

TLIFE

EEl Chioschetto 81El Rèfolo 133El Sbarlefo 81, 115-16Enoteca al Volto 66Enoteca Il Tira Bouchon

(Padua) 167Enoteca Mascareta 133-4

FFujiyama 82

GGrancaffè Quadri 65

HHarry’s Bar 65Helmut (Vicenza) 171

II Molini del Dolo (Riviera

Brenta) 163Il Caffè Rosso 82Il Certosino 156Il Santo Bevitore 115Imagina Café 82

LLa Cantina 116Lion’s Bar 144L’Ombra del Leoni 66

NNardini (Bassano del

Grappa) 174

OOsteria alla Bifora 81Osteria alla Ciurma 101Osteria All’Alba 66Osteria Al Squero 81-2Osteria da Filo 101Osteria del Bugiardo

(Verona) 180

PParadiso 133Pasticceria Sorarù

(Vicenza) 171

RRosa Salva 133

SSkyline 144

Strani 133

TTarnowska’s American

Bar 66Teamo 66Terrazza Bar al Ponte

(Verona) 180Timon 115Torrefazione Cannaregio

115

UUn Mondo di Vino 115

VVilla Laguna 144Vineria all’Amarone 99-101Vino Vero 115

3 ENTERTAINMENT

Casinò Di Venezia 117Circuito Cinema Giorgione

Movie d’Essai 117Collegium Ducale 134I Virtuosi Italiani 134Interpreti Veneziani 67La Casa Del Cinema 102 Laboratorio Occupato

Morion 134Multisala Rossini 67Musica a Palazzo 66-7Pachuka 144Palazetto Bru Zane 102Paradiso Perduto 116Scuola Grande di San Gio-

vanni Evangelista 102Teatro Goldoni 67Teatro Junghans 144Teatro Malibran 116-17Teatro Verde 144Venice Jazz Club 82-3Venice Music Gourmet 134

7 SHOPPING

AAcqua Marea 84Al Campanil 135 Alberto Sarria 103Anatema 105-6Antichità al Ghetto 118Antiquariato Claudia

Canestrelli 83Arcobaleno 68

Arnoldo & Battois 70Artigiani del Chiostro 145Atelier Alessandro Merlin

134Atelier Segalin di Daniela

Ghezzo 68Attombri 102-3

BBalducci Borse 117Ballarin 135Banco Lotto 10 135Bevilacqua Fabrics 69Bottega d’Arte Giuliana

Longo 68Bottega Orafa ABC 105Bragorà 134Bruno 84

CCa’ Macana 83Ca’ Macana Atelier 117Caigo da Mar 69-70Campiello Ca’ Zen 105Camuffo 70Cartavenezia 145Cárte 106Casa del Parmigiano 103Cesare Toffolo 156Charta 70Chiarastella Cattana 68Coin 117

DDamocle Edizioni 103Danghyra 84Davide Penso 157De Spar Teatro Italia 118Declare 69, 105Dolceamaro 118Drogheria Mascari 104

EElleElle 156Emilia 157Emilio Ceccato 105Esperienze 70

FFanny 118Farmacia Burati 104Fiorella Gallery 68Fondaco dei Tedeschi 69Fornace Mian 157Fortuny Tessuti Artistici

144Franco Furlanetto 104

GGalleria La Salizada 69Gianni Basso 117Gilberto Penzo 105Giovanna Zanella 135Giuseppe Tinti 106Gmeiner 102

II Tre Mecanti 135I Vetri a Lume di Amadi 105Il Baule Blu 106Il Pavone di Paolo Pelosin

104

KKalimala 134

LLaberintho 106L’Angolo del Passato 85L’Armadio di Coco Luxury

Vintage 67-8L’Armadio di Coco Vintage

Lab 117-18Le Fórcole di Saverio

Pastor 83Leonardo 118Libraria Aqua Alta 135L’Isola 68

MMadera 83Mare di Carta 106Marina e Susanna Sent 83Marina e Susanna Sent

Studio 156Materialmente 69Mercatino dell’Antiquariato

69Murra 103-4

OOh My Blue 102Oi Va Voi Studio 135Ottica Carraro 69Ottica Vascellari 105

PPagine e Cuoio 70Paolo Brandolisio 134Paolo Olbi 83Paperoowl 102Papuni Art 84Peggy Guggenheim

Museum Shop 84

261IN

DEX E

NT

ER

TAIN

ME

NT

PerlaMadreDesign 84Pied à Terre 102

QQshop 134

RRialto Biocenter 106

SSabbie e Nebbie 105Salvadore 156-7Segni nel Tempo 85Sigfrido Cipolato 68Signor Blum 84

TTrina Tygrett 84

VVenetian Dreams 69Venetia Studium 68Veneziastampa 103Venini 156Vittorio Costantini 118VizioVirtù 135

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

Acquolina Cooking School 145

Bagni Alberoni 145Brussa is Boat 118Circolo Golf Venezia 145Heliair.it 145Palladio Spa 145Reali Wellness Spa 135Row Venice 118Scuola del Vetro Abate

Zanetti 157SUP in Venice 118Venice Kayak 157Vogalonga long row 152

4 SLEEPING

3749 Ponte Chiodo 192-3

AAi Cavalieri di Venezia 194Al Gallion 190Al Ponte Antico 193Al Ponte Mocenigo 191Al Redentore di Venezia

195Albergo Quattro Fontane

196Albergo San Samuele 187Allo Squero 192Alloggi Barbaria 193Aqua Palace 194

BB&B Al Teatro 187B&B Leonardo 189B&B San Marco 193Belmond Hotel Cipriani 195Bloom 188

CCa’ Angeli 191Ca’ dei Dogi 194Ca’ del Nobile 187Ca’ della Corte 190Ca’ Dogaressa 192Ca’ Maria Adele 190Ca’ Pisani 190Ca’ Pozzo 193Camplus Living

Redentore 195Casa Baseggio 193Casa Burano 196Casa San Zeno (Verona)

178Cima Rosa 192Corte delle Pigne (Verona)

178Corte di Gabriela 188

DDomina Home Ca’ Zusto

191

GGenerator 195Giardino dei Melograni 193Giò & Giò 187Gritti Palace 188

HHotel Ai Do Mori 187-8Hotel Al Codega 187Hotel al Duca 191Hotel Aurora (Verona) 178Hotel Danieli 194Hotel Flora 187Hotel Gabbia d’Oro

(Verona) 178Hotel Galleria 189Hotel le Isole 193-4Hotel Moresco 190Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo

192Hotel Sant’Antonin 194Hotel Sant’Elena 194

IIl Lato Azzurro 196iQs 194

JJW Marriott Venice 195

LLa Calcina 190La Chicca 190La Villeggiatura 191Le Garzette 194Le Terese 188L’Imbarcadero 190-1Locanda Art Déco 187Locanda Ca’ Le Vele 192Locanda Casa Petrarca 188

Locanda Cipriani 196Locanda Orseolo 188Locanda San Barnaba 189

MMassimago 183Murano Palace 196

NNovecento 188

OOltre il Giardino 191Ostello Jan Palach 195

PPalazzo Abadessa 193Palazzo Guardi 189-90Palazzo Paruta 188Palazzo Schiavoni 194Palladio Hotel & Spa 195-6Pensione Accademia Villa

Maravege 189Pensione Guerrato 191-2

RResidenza de L’Osmarin 193Rezidenza Corte Antica 187

SSilk Road 188-9

VVenice Certosa Hotel 196Venice Halldis

Apartments 192Venissa 196Villa Ines 195Villa Lina 196

WWe Crociferi 192


262

IND

EX SP

OR

TS

& A

CT

IVIT

IES

263N

OTES

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

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U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

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LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

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Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

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Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

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Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

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Sleeping

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Drinking & NightlifeCafe

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Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

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Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

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Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Venice & the Veneto Maps

264 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Ponte deiBaratteri

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SAN MARCO

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SAN MARCO Map on p266

æ Top Sights (p50) ú Eating (p64) 1 Basilica di San Marco .................................H4 23 Ai Mercanti .................................................. E4 2 La Fenice ...................................................... D5 24 Bistrot de Venise ......................................... F3 3 Museo Correr .............................................. F5 25 Marchini Time ............................................. E3 4 Palazzo Ducale ............................................ H5 26 Osteria da Carla ........................................... F5 5 Palazzo Grassi ............................................. A5 27 Ristorante Quadri ....................................... G4 28 Rosa Salva .................................................... F2 æ Sights (p57) 29 Rosticceria Gislon ....................................... F2 6 Campanile .................................................... G5 30 Suso ............................................................. G2 7 Chiesa di San Moisè ................................... F6 31 Trattoria Da Fiore ....................................... B5 8 Chiesa di San Salvador .............................. F2 32 Trattoria Vini Da Arturo ............................. D4 9 Chiesa di San Vidal ..................................... B6

10 Chiesa di San Zulian ................................... G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p65) 11 Chiesa di Santa Maria del 33 Bacarando .................................................... G1 Giglio ..........................................................D6 34 Bàcaro Jazz .................................................. F1 12 Chiesa di Santo Stefano ............................ C5 35 Bar Longhi ................................................... D7 13 Museo della Musica .................................... C5 36 Black-Jack ................................................... E3 14 Museo di San Marco ...................................H4 37 Caffè Brasilia ............................................... D4 15 Museo Fortuny ............................................ C4 38 Caffè Centrale ..............................................E5 16 Negozio Olivetti ........................................... F5 39 Caffè Florian ................................................ G5 17 Palazzo Franchetti ...................................... B6 40 Caffè Lavena ............................................... G4 18 Piazza San Marco ....................................... G5 41 Enoteca al Volto.......................................... D3 19 Ponte dei Sospiri ......................................... H5 Grancaffè Quadri ............................... (see 27) 20 Ponte dell'Accademia ................................ A6 42 Harry's Bar ...................................................F6 21 Scala Contarini del Bovolo ........................ E4 43 L'Ombra del Leoni .......................................F6 22 Torre dell'Orologio ......................................G4 44 Osteria All'Alba ............................................ F2 45 Tarnowska's American Bar ....................... D6

268

sAN M

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89 Rezidenza Corte Antica ............................. B6

ý Entertainment (p66) 66 Materialmente ............................................. F3 Interpreti Veneziani ............................ (see 9) 67 Mercatino dell'Antiquariato ...................... C6 La Fenice .............................................. (see 2) 68 Ottica Carraro ............................................. D4 47 Multisala Rossini ......................................... D4 69 Pagine e Cuoio .............................................E5 48 Musica a Palazzo ........................................ C6 70 Sigfrido Cipolato ......................................... D4 49 Teatro Goldoni ............................................ E3 71 SV Lab .......................................................... C6 72 Venetia Studium ......................................... D6 þ Shopping (p67) 73 Venetian Dreams ........................................ D4 50 Arcobaleno .................................................. B5

51 Arnoldo & Battois ....................................... E4 ÿ Sleeping (p187) 52 Atelier Segalin di Daniela 74 Albergo San Samuele ................................ B4 Ghezzo ...................................................... E4 75 B&B Al Teatro ............................................. D5 53 Bevilacqua Fabrics .....................................D6 76 Bloom ........................................................... C5 54 Bottega d'Arte Giuliana Longo .................. F2 77 Ca' del Nobile ............................................... F4 55 Caigo da Mar ............................................... B4 78 Corte di Gabriela ........................................ C4 56 Camuffo ....................................................... G3 79 Giò & Giò ...................................................... D6 57 Charta .......................................................... F4 80 Gritti Palace ................................................ D7 58 Chiarastella Cattana................................... B5 81 Hotel Ai Do Mori ......................................... G4 59 Declare ......................................................... D4 82 Hotel Al Codega .......................................... E4 60 Esperienze ................................................... G3 83 Hotel Flora ................................................... E6 61 Fiorella Gallery ............................................ B6 84 Locanda Art Déco ...................................... B5 62 Fondaco dei Tedeschi ................................. F1 85 Locanda Casa Petrarca ............................. E4 63 Galleria La Salizada .................................... B4 86 Locanda Orseolo ......................................... F4 64 L'Armadio di Coco Luxury 87 Novecento ................................................... C6 Vintage ......................................................D6 88 Palazzo Paruta ............................................ C4 65 L'Isola ........................................................... B5

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æ Top Sights (p90) 47 Osteria da Filo ............................................. C3 1 I Frari ............................................................ B6 48 Vineria all'Amarone ..................................... F5 2 Rialto Market ............................................... G3

3 Scuola Grande di San Rocco ..................... A6 ý Entertainment (p102) 49 La Casa Del Cinema ................................... D2 æ Sights (p93) 50 Palazetto Bru Zane .................................... B4 4 Ca' Pesaro .................................................... E2 Scuola Grande di San 5 Casa di Carlo Goldoni ................................. C7 Giovanni Evangelista...................... (see 17) 6 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio .............. C3

7 Chiesa di San Polo ......................................D6 þ Shopping (p102) 8 Chiesa di San Rocco ................................... A6 51 Alberto Sarria ............................................. G4 9 Chiesa di San Stae ....................................... E1 52 Anatema ...................................................... C5 10 Fondazione Prada ....................................... F2 53 Attombri ...................................................... G4 11 Il Gobbo ........................................................H4 54 Bottega Orafa ABC .................................... D2 12 Museo di Storia Naturale di 55 Campiello Ca' Zen ...................................... C5 Venezia ...................................................... C1 56 Cárte ............................................................. F3 13 Palazzo Mocenigo ....................................... D2 Casa del Parmigiano ........................ (see 38) 14 Pescaria ....................................................... G3 57 Damocle Edizioni .........................................E5 15 Ponte delle Tette......................................... E4 58 Declare ......................................................... C6 16 Ponte di Rialto ............................................. H5 59 Drogheria Mascari ...................................... G4 17 Scuola Grande di San Giovanni 60 Emilio Ceccato ............................................ H5 Evangelista ............................................... B4 61 Farmacia Burati .......................................... D6 62 Franco Furlanetto....................................... C6 ú Eating (p96) 63 Gilberto Penzo ............................................ C6 18 Acqua e Mais ............................................... E5 64 Giuseppe Tinti ............................................. E3 19 Al Ponte Storto............................................ E5 65 Gmeiner ........................................................ F4 20 All'Arco .........................................................G4 66 I Vetri a Lume di Amadi ............................. C6 21 Antica Besseta ............................................ B2 67 Il Baule Blu................................................... B7 22 Antiche Carampane ................................... E4 68 Il Pavone di Paolo Pelosin ..........................E5 23 Antico Forno ................................................ G5 69 Laberintho ................................................... D4 24 Birraria La Corte ......................................... D5 70 Murra ........................................................... G3 25 Dai Zemei ..................................................... F5 71 Oh My Blue .................................................. B7 26 Frary's .......................................................... B5 72 Ottica Vascellari ......................................... G5 27 Gelato di Natura .......................................... C2 73 Paperoowl ................................................... D3 28 Il Refolo ........................................................ B2 74 Pied à Terre ................................................. G4 29 Muro San Stae ............................................ D2 75 Rialto Biocenter .......................................... E3 30 Osteria La Zucca ......................................... C2 76 Sabbie e Nebbie ......................................... C6 31 Osteria Mocenigo ....................................... D2 77 Scriba ........................................................... B6 32 Osteria Trefanti ........................................... A3 78 Veneziastampa ........................................... E3 33 Pasticceria Rizzardini................................. E6

34 Ristorante Glam .......................................... D1 Ø Sports & Activities (p104) 35 Sacro E Profano ..........................................G4 79 Venice Italian School ................................. B5 36 Snack Bar Ai Nomboli ................................ C6

37 Trattoria da Ignazio .................................... C6 ÿ Sleeping (p190) 80 Al Gallion ...................................................... A2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p99) 81 Al Ponte Mocenigo ...................................... E1 38 Al Mercà .......................................................H4 82 Ca' Angeli ..................................................... E6 39 Al Prosecco.................................................. C2 83 Cima Rosa .................................................... D1 40 Barcollo ........................................................H4 84 Domina Home Ca' Zusto ............................ B1 41 Basegò ......................................................... B7 85 Hotel al Duca ................................................ C1 42 Caffè dei Frari .............................................. B5 86 Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo............................ D7 43 Caffè del Doge ............................................. G5 87 La Villeggiatura ............................................ F3 44 Cantina Do Spade .......................................G4 88 L'Imbarcadero ............................................. B1 45 Do Mori .........................................................G4 89 Oltre il Giardino ........................................... C5 46 Osteria alla Ciurma .....................................G4

272

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ú Eating (p96) û Drinking & Nightlife (p99) 1 Coop ............................................................. A2 3 Bacareto Da Lele ........................................ C3 2 Ristorante Ribot .......................................... C4

þ Shopping (p102) 4 Mare di Carta .............................................. C3

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æ Top Sights (p73) 35 Il Caffè Rosso .............................................. D3 1 Ca' Rezzonico .............................................. E3 36 Imagina Café ................................................ G1 2 Gallerie dell'Accademia ............................. F5 37 Osteria Al Squero ........................................E5 3 Peggy Guggenheim Collection ................. G5 38 Osteria alla Bifora ....................................... D3 4 Punta della Dogana .................................... H5

ý Entertainment (p82) æ Sights (p76) Musica in Maschera .......................... (see 12) 5 Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute ......... H5 39 Venice Jazz Club ......................................... G1 6 Ca' Dario ...................................................... G5

7 Chiesa dei Gesuati ...................................... E6 þ Shopping (p83) 8 Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli .......... A4 40 Acqua Marea ............................................... D2 9 Chiesa di San Sebastiano .......................... B4 41 Antiquariato Claudia Canestrelli .............. G5 10 Fondazione Vedova ....................................G6 42 Bruno ........................................................... G2 11 Palazzo Cini ................................................. F5 43 Ca' Macana................................................... H1 12 Scuola Grande dei Carmini ....................... C3 44 Danghyra ..................................................... E3 13 Squero di San Trovaso............................... E5 45 L'Angolo del Passato ................................. E3 46 Le Fórcole di Saverio Pastor ..................... G5 ú Eating (p78) 47 Madera ......................................................... H2 14 Ai Quattro Feri ............................................. G2 48 Marina e Susanna Sent .............................. F5 15 Al Vecio Marangon ..................................... E4 49 Paolo Olbi .................................................... E3 16 Bar alla Toletta ............................................ E4 50 Papuni Art ................................................... G2 17 Da Codroma ................................................ B3 51 Peggy Guggenheim Museum Shop ......... G5 18 Enoteca Ai Artisti ........................................ D4 52 PerlaMadreDesign ...................................... H1 19 Estro ............................................................. D2 53 Segni nel Tempo ......................................... G2 20 Gelateria Il Doge.......................................... D3 54 Signor Blum ................................................ G2 21 Orient Experience II .................................... D3 55 Trina Tygrett ............................................... G5 22 Osteria Ai Do Farai ...................................... E3

23 Pane, Vino e San Daniele ........................... B4 ÿ Sleeping (p188) 24 Pasticceria Tonolo ...................................... D2 56 B&B Leonardo ............................................ E3 Ristorante La Bitta ............................(see 14) 57 Ca' della Corte ............................................ C2 25 Ristoteca Oniga........................................... H2 58 Ca' Maria Adele ........................................... H5 26 Riviera .......................................................... C5 59 Ca' Pisani ......................................................E5 60 Hotel Galleria ............................................... F5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p81) 61 Hotel Moresco ............................................ C2 27 Ai Pugni ........................................................ G2 62 La Calcina .....................................................F6 28 Bakarò .......................................................... D3 63 La Chicca ...................................................... F5 29 Café Noir ...................................................... D2 64 Le Terese ..................................................... A4 30 Caffè Bar Ai Artisti ...................................... H2 65 Locanda San Barnaba ............................... E4 31 Cantinone Già Schiavi ................................ E5 66 Palazzo Guardi .............................................E5 32 El Chioschetto ............................................. D5 67 Pensione Accademia Villa Maravege ...... E4 33 El Sbarlefo ................................................... D2 68 Silk Road ...................................................... C5 34 Fujiyama....................................................... D4

278

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7 Monument to the Partisan Woman .......... B4 þ Shopping (p135) 8 Museo Storico Navale ................................ A3 17 Oi Va Voi Studio .......................................... B3 9 Padiglione delle Navi .................................. A2

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – January 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 260 8© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Our WritersPaula HardyDorsoduro, San Polo & Santa Croce Paula Hardy is an independent travel writer and editorial consultant, whose work for Lonely Planet and other flagship publications has taken her from nomadic camps in the Danakil Depression to Seychellois beach huts and the jewel-like bar at the Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal. Over two decades, she has authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guide-books and spent five years as commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s bestsell-

ing Italian list. These days you’ll find her hunting down new hotels, hip bars and up-and-coming artisans primarily in Milan, Venice and Marrakesh. Get in touch at www.paulahardy.com. Paula also wrote the Venice Today and The Fragile Lagoon chapters, along with the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide sections.

Peter DragicevichSan Marco; Cannaregio; Castello; Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands; Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Aus-tralia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally

dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere. Peter also wrote the History, Architecture and The Arts chapters.

Marc Di DucaDay Trips from Venice A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic

with his wife and two sons.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Documents

Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/venice-the-veneto-10-index.pdf · Campanile 57 Campo dei Mori 113, 86 canals 9, 8, 25 Cannaregio 47, 107-18, 107,