Bathroom Remodeling: Design & Product

Selection Guide

© Copple Construction, llc, 2011

Table of Contents

About Copple Construction, llc 1

Copple Construction,llc Remodeling Process 2

Bathroom Remodeling Basics 3

Design Styles 6

Design Guidelines 8

Tile 10

Product Options 16

Shower and Tub Refinishing or Replacement 16

Tub Types 16

Tub Materials 17

Shower Types & Materials 19

Bathroom Sink Types 19

Bathroom Sink Materials 20

Faucets 22

Toilet 22

Storage Cabinets / Medicine Cabinet / Mirror 23

Lights 23

Exhaust Fan 23

Under Floor Heating 24

Other Heat Sources 24

Accessories – Towel Bars, TP Holder, Hooks, etc. 25

Other Accessories – Music, TV, Lighting, etc. 25

Tub, Toilet, Sink, Faucet, and Accessory Suppliers 25

Research / Catalogs 26

Services and Rates 27

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About Copple Construction, llc

Copple Construction, llc is a Licensed Builder who specializes in residential and light-commercial

remodeling and repairs, as well as structured wiring. All projects are personally managed and much of the work is performed by the owner, Kirk Copple. His attention to detail, knowledge, and experience of residential construction allows for an personalized approach to your construction services. With your budget in mind, we can explain all of the options for your project and help you choose the best one for your needs. We have experience with many of the products on the market and can guide you through the choices.

A few small steps can have a dramatic effect on the cost, look, and durability. We have the experience and knowledge to choose the proper products and techniques and to provide the skilled labor necessary to complete your remodel properly, on time, and on budget. Helpers and specialists are brought in as needed. All work is supervised and inspected by the owner to ensure it meets our high standards. Most of the helpers we use are trusted professionals whom we have known for years.

Our mission is to: • Develop a personalized solution to your problems • Complete the work to the highest standards • Develop a trusting relationship with each client, so we are their first call every time • Complete the work for a reasonable rate

We pride ourselves on completing projects on time, but will always take the extra time, if necessary, to ensure the work is completed properly. We rarely purchase the cheapest products, since we know the better products normally cost only slightly more. We understand the small extra cost is worth it for the increased speed of the installation, the improved look, and the increased durability/longevity of the finished project.

_______________________________________________________ History Copple Construction, llc opened in 2007, with a two-fold purpose. The first is to provide top quality work at reasonable rates. The owner has fixed too much substandard work in this area. If it’s worth doing, then it’s worth doing right. We don’t use the cheapest materials and we spend the time to make sure each step is finished properly. The second purpose is to provide a general contracting service which helps people choose the right products and techniques to meet their needs and budget. Usually there are many options as to the materials and techniques used to complete a project. So many contractors have become specialized, have only been trained in one way to do something, and/or get special deals on certain products. Instead of helping you decide what is best for your situation, they sell you something, whether it’s the best solution for your needs or not. Copple Construction, llc does not use high-pressure sale tactics. We will help you sort through the options, so you can choose what is best for you. Owner Copple Construction, llc is owned and operated by Kirk Copple, who has lived in the Springfield area for over 25 years. His work experience includes over twelve years in construction and eight years in corporate sales management. He attended college at the University of South Carolina for a B.S. in Business Management. In 2004, he left his job as an electrician, returned to residential remodeling, and went into business for himself. Since then he has completed hundreds of projects and satisfied every client. He learned his trade from a lifetime of construction activities - from growing up in rural Nebraska and learning from family in the building trades, to working under a master electrician, a few great carpenters, and a couple of quality builders. He also has a thirst for knowledge which keeps him up to date on the latest advancements in technology and techniques in the construction trade. This drive has also led to his completion of numerous training and certification courses. Licensing Fairfax County Business License # – 1006786 Virginia DPOR Class B Contractor’s License # – 2705116134 Contractor’s License Endorsements – Building Electronic/Communication Service EPA Lead Certified Renovator Certificate # – R-I-18506-10-09799 $2,000,000 General Liability Insurance

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Copple Construction,llc Remodeling Process

Initial Consultation We meet at the worksite to take a look at the existing space, take measurements, and to get a complete understanding of your project, vision and goals. The scope of work is determined. A ballpark budget is discussed. Style and materials are discussed.

Initial Planning Meeting

We review an initial plan and budget. A preliminary scope of work for the project and the budget is presented and reviewed. The Design Agreement is signed. We explore design options with regular feedback and refinements until you are completely satisfied. A comprehensive site survey of your home is performed. The product selections are made. The design and budget is refined based on your input. An additional planning meeting may be necessary and a time will be set for that meeting.

Final Design and Budget Review

This is where we finalize your project drawings, selections, and budget. Minor refinements are made to the design. A plan is presented which outlines what you can expect throughout the process. Start and completion dates are set. The Service Agreement is signed.

Pre-Construction Meeting

After completing the behind-the-scenes preparations, like ordering materials, coordinating helpers and sub-contractors, and obtaining permits. We will discuss the job schedule, daily start and stop times, communication protocols, key client dates (vacations, etc.), lockbox arrangements . . . an entire list of pre-construction items.

Construction

Your project begins on the scheduled start-date. You are kept informed throughout the entire process. We work everyday to ensure quality work and a timely completion. You and your home are treated professionally and conscientiously, and disruption is kept to a minimum.

Finalize

The work is completed on time. A Final Walk-through is performed. The Final Paperwork is presented, including all owners’ manuals and warranty information. Any necessary adjustments are made for complete client satisfaction.

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Bathroom Remodeling Basics

Levels of Remodeling

Surface Alterations – At the easy end of the scale, you may like the general layout and size of the bathroom and the structure supporting the bathroom (joists, walls, etc.) are sound. Just some new paint, toilet, sink, mirror, cabinets, and towel bars can make some bathrooms look almost new again.

Complete Tear-Out/Remodel – The moisture in bathrooms can cause damage to drywall, joists and studs. Sometimes this is apparent, sometimes it isn’t. To ensure a longer-lasting remodel, it’s a good idea to remove everything including the drywall, then fix any damage that has occurred over the years. This can also uncover leaking pipes and dangerous electrical situations.

Change Layout – Once completely removing everything in the bathroom, there is a good opportunity to rearrange everything to a more functional and comfortable layout. This includes moving the tub, toilet, and/or sink or even knocking down and reframing the walls.

Budget After deciding what level of remodel your bathroom is in need of, a budget should be established. This should include a budget for the products you pick out and for the labor and building materials. A Surface Alteration level remodel should run in the $1000-2000 range for labor and building materials for a standard 5’x8’ bathroom. The products you pick out could run as little as $500-1000, but could cost much more if you choose the higher priced alternatives. A Complete Remodel should run in the $7000-12,000 range for labor and building materials for the same size room. The products you pick out could run as little as $1500-2000, but could cost much more. Changing the Layout may require extra framing, plumbing, electrical, etc. and may add hundreds or thousands, depending on the changes. As part of the budget, it is best to include an extra 10-20% for any hidden water damage or additional work that may be needed. After the first few days of the project, when the demolition is finished, any additional work that is needed or changes to the plans which are required, should be apparent.

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Design and Product Selection The next step in the planning stages for the bathroom remodel is to choose a design, color palette, and start to pick out the products. The section of this manual on Products will walk you through the order in which to choose everything. Depending on the amount of time it takes to have the products delivered, they don’t all need to be present before the start of construction. We will provide you with a timeline as to when each of the products will need to be there. If you like, we can take care of all of the product purchases and delivery, of the ones you choose. All of the products will have to be picked out before the plans can be finalized.

Plans

Even for a small bathroom remodel, it is important to have graphical plans made. There are so many items going into such a small place, that having plans with exact measurements is important to ensure a completed bathroom that meets your vision. Some interior designers offer very high quality 2D and 3D plans for you as part of their services. Copple Construction, llc offers basic 2D CAD plans as part of our design services. While plans may be made as part of the Design period, it’s important to adjust the plans according to your product selections, before starting construction.

Permits Depending on the level of bathroom remodel, permits may be required. Permits can be applied for after the plans are made and before the start of demolition. If permits are required, then building, plumbing, electrical, and possibly other permits may be required. Depending on the locality, you may be able to apply for some or all of your own permits. Otherwise, the building contractor will get the building permit, the plumber will get the plumbing permit, and the electrician will get the electrical permit. These permits may take 1 day or over a month to get depending on the locality. The permits must be posted where they can be seen from the outside of the dwelling before any work can begin. Usually 2-3 inspections are required during the remodel, before the drywall is installed and after everything is completed. Sometimes there is an inspection after the demolition phase which is required, as well. If permits are required and not applied for, then an inspector may stop the work until permits are posted, may require some work be undone for an inspection, and it will cost a couple of hundred dollars extra for the permits.

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What to Expect During Construction Once all of the pre-construction items are completed, the actual construction can begin. A Surface Alteration bathroom remodel may be completed in a week or two. A Complete Tear-Out bathroom remodel with tile surround and floor normally runs 3-6 weeks, sometimes longer for a larger bathroom or for a lot of tile work. If Changing the Layout, then it may take an additional week or two. Sometimes additional work is required to fix hidden water damage. Occasionally, the ceiling below the bathroom or the opposite side of the bathroom walls will need to be repaired and refinished. Each bathroom remodel is unique, but a standard bathroom remodel goes through the following stages in order:

Demolition and Removal of the Old Bathroom Fixtures, Walls, Floors, etc. Framing

Tub Installation, Plumbing, & Electrical Rough-in Drywall and Paint Tile Plumbing & Electrical Final (Fixture Installation) Accessory Installation, Caulk, Touch-up Paint, etc. During the course of a remodel, we will keep you updated with the progress and any alterations to the plans which are needed. For safety, we ask that you not enter the worksite during the course of the remodel without alerting us. This will give us the chance to remove or let you know about any hazards or wet surfaces. While we are careful to keep the dust and smells to a minimal level, there will be some extra dust and a variety of different smells during the curing process of some materials. During the course of a Complete Bathroom Remodel, 1-3 tons of materials will be removed from the room and another ton or more of materials installed. Keeping a clear, well-protected path to the bathroom, from the exterior door, will aid in the speed of the remodel. A water source outside the bathroom is required, such as another bathtub or mop sink (something in which a 5-gallon bucket can be filled). A grounded electrical outlet outside the bathroom will also be required.

The demolition of the existing bathroom will be completed all at one time to aid in containing and removing that dust. Any materials containing lead or asbestos will be removed according to the law. We always attempt to use Low-VOC, formaldehyde-free, and environmentally-friendly products to build your new bathroom. Some people are especially sensitive to some smells/dusts which are harmless to most people. If you have any known allergies or feel ill effects during the course of the remodel, then let us know and we will go to whatever lengths are necessary to reduce your exposure.

Hiring an Interior Designer While we can walk anyone with a vision of what they want through the product selection, if you have the money and want to have the best coordinated and functional bathroom, then the services of a licensed interior designer is recommended. Their services can range from a simple consultation to help coordinate some of your own ideas, to a full service product selection and design with 3D CAD drawings so you can be sure you will like the finished bathroom. These services can run from a few hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.

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Design Styles

Traditional: Generally formal in style with classic architectural details. Heavy use of natural stone, carved or embellished cabinetry and vintage-look fixtures.

♦ In traditional style, balance is key. When in doubt, buy a pair. ♦ Marble and granite are best bets for countertops. Other

options are concrete, pewter or hammered copper. ♦ Dark wood finishes are favored; cabinets with timeless flair. ♦ Incorporate classic shapes, such as urns, columns, curves

and scrolling leaves or flowers. ♦ A traditional-style bathroom best fits a traditional-style home

but, truly, will work in any style home. ♦ Colors can be bold or subtle with classic patterns in wallpaper,

shower curtains and linens adding extra oomph.

Modern: Sleek, streamlined and clutter-free, this style makes liberal use of reflective materials such as glass, chrome and solid-surface countertops.

♦ Clean lines and simple, geometric shapes are key. ♦ Mid-Century Modern style, a '50s take on Modern style,

continues to grow in popularity. ♦ Choose sleek materials such as stainless steel and glass tile. ♦ Keep cabinetry free of fussy details. Popular wood choices are

also eco-friendly, such as bamboo and cork. ♦ Modern style is clutter-free; ample concealed storage for

toiletries is a necessity. ♦ All-white is a popular palette especially when paired with pops

of energizing colors such as turquoise, red, orange and yellow.

Eclectic: Creative mix of varying design styles with inventive color, pattern and material combinations.

♦ Mix different styles, periods and looks. ♦ Design by instinct: If you love it, it will work. ♦ Shop at flea markets and specialty stores. ♦ Create cohesion with repetition of color, shape or texture. ♦ Don't forget the details: Accessories like wall sconces,

glassware and linens make a big difference in a room's design.

♦ Create a one-of-a-kind look with bold pattern choices, such as stripes, geometrics or prints.

Cottage: Casual, warm and reminiscent of country style, cottage continues to gain popularity.

♦ Commonly used architectural features are hardwood floors and beadboard or wainscot paneling.

♦ Cabinets resemble antique furniture and are often painted or distressed.

♦ Fabric patterns are traditional such as florals, checks, damask, toile or stripes.

♦ Vintage or hand-me-down accessories are part of the decor and add personality.

♦ Color choices are often feminine and softer in tone.

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Those are some of the more popular design styles. There are many more styles and subsets of each of those styles. Most bathrooms these days are done in what would be considered an Eclectic style, which is a mixture of two or more other styles. For instance, as long as there is some element tying them together (color, texture, shape, etc.) the shower area of a bathroom could be done in one style, and the sink area in another style. This usually works better in larger bathrooms.

Small Bathroom Design Ideas that Enlarge

• Basic Color: Anything that is light in color looks larger. Anything that is a cool color looks larger. Pale, cool colors reflect light. Look for soft shades of white and off white, as well as pastels to make a small bathroom look larger. If you use wallpaper, choose a light airy shade with a small pattern.

• Camouflage: Adjoining objects of the same color blend into one another. Paint walls, woodwork, trim, cabinets, counters, and doors in the same color to make them appear as one. If that color is near the color of your tub, sink, and toilet, the effect will be even better.

• Raise the Roof: Paint the ceiling a lighter tint of the same color to “raise” it. A small bathroom looks larger with a light ceiling. Another way to raise your ceiling is to draw the eye upward with wallpaper border or molding where the wall meets the ceiling.

• Mirrors: As Alice in Wonderland found, a mirror can look like another room. Large mirrors can make your small bathroom seem almost twice the size it is.

• Windows: Bathroom windows let in light, which a small bathroom needs. Keep window treatments minimal. Use mini blinds that can be raised out of sight when not needed. Another privacy option is to cover the lower half of a window with sheer fabric, leaving the top half uncovered.

• Organization: Clutter will make any area look smaller. Whatever your small bathroom style, it will look larger with minimal clutter. Organize things into cupboards, leaving out only what is absolutely necessary or cannot be put away.

• Accessorize Boldly: With so many neutral, pale tones, your small bathroom may look boring and bland. When everything else is done, look at your accessories. Add bold touches of color with your toothbrush holders, soap dishes, towels, and other accessories.

• Style: Country and Victorian styles tend to look small and cluttered. Sleek, contemporary lines give a sense of openness and space.

Inspiration Galleries

NKBA Inspiration Gallery – nkba.org/Dream.aspx HGTV Designers Portfolio – hgtv.com/designers-portfolio/bathrooms/index.html DIY.com Home Improvement – diynetwork.com/topics/bathroom-decorating/index.html

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Design Guidelines

NKBA Guidelines The National Kitchen & Bath Association developed the Bathroom Planning Guidelines to provide designers with good planning practices that consider typical needs of users. A committee of experts in bathroom design reviewed relevant research, lifestyle and design trends, and model building code requirements to assure the updated guidelines promote the health, safety, and welfare of consumers. The guidelines are used for academic and educational programs in bathroom design, evaluation of bathroom plans, and testing the competencies of designers seeking certification. Door/Entry - Recommended: The clear opening of a doorway should be at least 32". This would require a

minimum 2'-10" door. If the existing structure precludes changing the opening then a minimum 2'-0" door is allowable.

Door Interference - Recommended: No entry or fixture door should interfere with one another and/or the safe use of the fixtures or cabinets.

Ceiling Height - Code Requirement: Bathrooms shall have a minimum floor to ceiling height of 80" over the fixture and at the front clearance area for fixtures. A shower or tub equipped with a shower head shall have a minimum floor to ceiling height of 80" above a minimum area 30" X 30" at the shower head.

Clear Space - Recommended: Plan a clear floor space of at least 30" from the front edge of all fixtures (i.e., lavatory, toilet, bidet, tub and shower) to any opposite bath fixture, wall or obstacle. Code Requirement: A minimum space of at least 21" must be planned in front of lavatory, toilet, bidet and tub. A minimum space of at least 24" must be planned in front of a shower entry.

Single Lavatory Placement - Recommended: The distance from the centerline of the lavatory to the sidewall/tall obstacle should be at least 20". Code Requirement: The minimum distance from the centerline of the lavatory to a wall is 15". * The minimum distance between a wall and the edge of a freestanding or wall-hung lavatory is 4".

Double Lavatory Placement - Recommended: The distance between the centerlines of two lavatories should be at least 36". Code Requirement: The minimum distance between the centerlines of two lavatories should be at least 30". * The minimum distance between the edges of two freestanding or wall-hung lavatories is 4".

Lavatory/Vanity Height - Recommended: The height for a lavatory varies between 32"-43" to fit the user. Countertop Edges - Recommended: Specify clipped or round corners rather than sharp edges on all counters. Shower Size - Recommended: The interior shower size is at least 36" x 36". Code Requirement: * The minimum

interior shower size is 30" x 30" or 900 square inches, in which a disc of 30" in diameter must fit. Tub/Shower Controls - Recommended: a. The shower controls should be accessible from both inside and

outside the shower spray and be located between 38"-48" above the floor depending on user's height. b. The tub controls should be accessible from both inside and outside the tub and be located between the rim of the bathtub and 33" above the floor.

Shower/Tub Control Valves - Code Requirement: Shower and tub/shower control valves must be one of the following: 1.pressure balanced 2.thermostatic mixing 3.combination pressure balance/thermostatic mixing valve

Shower Seat - Recommended: Plan a seat within the shower that is 17"-19" above the shower floor and 15" deep. Code Requirement: Shower seat must not infringe on the minimum interior size of the shower (900 sq.in.)

Tub/Shower Surround - Recommended: The wall area above a tub or shower pan should be covered in a waterproof material extending at least 3" above the showerhead rough in. Code Requirement: The wall area above a tub or shower pan must be covered in a waterproof material to a height of not less than 72" above the finished floor.

Grab Bars - Recommended: Plan grab bars to facilitate access to and maneuvering within the tub and shower areas. Tub and shower walls should be prepared (reinforced) at time of construction to allow for installation of grab bars to support a static load of 300 lbs. Grab bars should be placed at least 33"-36" above the floor. Grab bars must be 1 & 1/4" to 1 & 1/2" in diameter and extend 1 & 1/2" from the wall.

Glazing - Code Requirement: Glass used in tub or shower enclosures (i.e. tub or shower door) or partitions must be tempered or an approved equal and must be permanently marked as such. If the tub or shower surround has glass windows or walls, the glazing must be tempered glass or approved equal when the bottom edge of glazing is less than 60" above any standing or walking surface. Any glazing (i.e. windows or doors) whose bottom edge is less than 18" above the floor must be tempered glass or approved equal.

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Tub/Shower Door - Code Requirement: Hinged shower doors shall open outward. Steps - Recommended: Steps should not be placed outside a tub. If steps are used a grab bar/handrail is

mandatory. Flooring - Recommended: Slip-resistant surfaces should be specified for the general bath flooring, shower floors,

and tub/shower bottoms. Equipment Access - Code Requirement: All equipment, including access panels, must be installed as per

manufacturers' specifications. All manufacturers' instructions must be available for installers and inspectors and left for homeowners.

Toilet/Bidet Placement - Recommended: The distance from the centerline of toilet and/or bidet to any bath fixture, wall or other obstacle should be at least 18". Code Requirement: A minimum distance of 15" is required from the centerline of toilet and/or bidet to any bath fixture, wall or other obstacle.

Toilet Compartment - Recommended: The size for a separate toilet compartment should be at least 36" by 66" with a swing-out or pocket door. Code Requirement: The minimum size for a separate toilet compartment is 30" by 60".

Storage - Recommended: Provide adequate, accessible storage for toiletries, bath linens, grooming and general bathroom supplies at point of use.

Accessories - Recommended: a. Place a mirror above or near the lavatory at a height that takes the user's eye height into consideration. b. The toilet paper holder should be located 8" - 12" in front of the edge of the toilet bowl, centered at 26" above the floor. c. Additional accessories, such as towel holders, soap dishes, etc., should be conveniently located near all bath fixtures.

Electrical Receptacles - Recommended: All GFCI receptacles should be located at electrical appliance points of use. Code Requirement: At least one GFCI protected receptacle must be installed within 36" of the outside edge of the lavatory. All receptacles must be protected by Ground-fault-circuit-interrupters (GFCI). A receptacle shall not be installed within a shower or bathtub space. Switches shall not be installed within wet locations in tub or shower spaces unless installed as part of the listed tub or shower assembly.

Lighting - Recommended: In addition to general lighting, task lighting should be provided for each functional area in the bathroom (i.e. grooming, showering). Code Requirement: At least one wall-switch controlled light must be provided. Switch must be placed at the entrance. All light fixtures installed within tub and shower spaces should be marked "suitable for damp/wet locations". Hanging fixtures cannot be located within a zone of 3' feet horizontally and 8' vertically from the top of the bathtub rim.

Ventilation - Recommended: Plan a mechanical exhaust system, vented to the outside, for each enclosed area. Code Requirement: * Minimum ventilation for the bathroom is to be a window of at least 3 sq. ft. of which 50% is operable, or a mechanical ventilation system of at least 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) ducted to the outside.

Heat - Recommended: A supplemental heat source, i.e., heat lamp, toe kick heater, or floor heat, should be considered. Code Requirement: All bathrooms should have an appropriate heat source to maintain a minimum room temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit (30 Celsius).

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Tile

While ceramic or porcelain tile is the choice for most bathrooms, natural stone, vinyl, and engineered flooring can be used instead. The choices of tile flooring are extensive and can make a big impact on the look of the bathroom. Larger tiles will make a small bathroom look larger, as will lighter colors. A full field of small mosaic tiles will make a floor look “busy” and the room smaller. Mosaic tiles are a great choice to use to break-up the field of larger-sized tiles by using them in the pattern for accent.

Types of Tile Materials

Ceramic Most types of tiles that are made from clay or a mixture of clay and other materials, then kiln-fired, are considered to be a part of the larger classification called “Ceramic Tiles”. These tiles can be split into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. Non-porcelain tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves, separate from porcelain tiles. “Ceramic” or non-porcelain tiles are generally made from red or white clay fired in a kiln. They are almost always finished with a durable glaze which carries the color and pattern. Ceramic is best known for its durability. Ceramic tile is a popular, time-tested covering for floors and walls. It is a great choice for wet areas and can be budget-friendly. Ceramic tiles come in a wide range of colors, textures, shapes, and sizes, in addition to a range of prices. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain, and usually carry a PEI 0 to 3 rating. Non-porcelain ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally are more prone to wear and chipping than porcelain tiles.

The hardness and scratch resistance of ceramic tile is rated according to the Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) Ratings and wear descriptions:

• Class 1 (No foot traffic) - Recommended for wall use only. • Class 2 (Light traffic) - Recommended for both wall use and bathroom floor applications only. • Class 3 (Light to moderate traffic) - Recommended for countertops, walls and floors where normal foot

traffic is expected. • Class 4 (Moderate to heavy traffic) - Recommended for all

residential applications as well as medium commercial and light institutional.

• Class 5 (Heavy to extra heavy traffic) - Recommended for all residential as well as heavy commercial and institutional applications.

Porcelain Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face. Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less than 0.5%) than non-porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frost-proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color and pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.

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Glass Glass tile is basically glass that is made into various sized tiles and finishes. They are available in different shapes including: Squares, Bricks, Sticks, Ovals, Rounds, and Mixed Sizes. Glass Tiles are available in different finishes, including: Polished, Glossy, Matte, Tumbled, Rippled, and Iridescent Glass Tile. They are available in individual pieces or mounted on a sheet depending in the size of the glass tile and the glass tile manufacturer. It is stain resistant making it ideal for use as a bathroom wall, shower wall, and shower floor installations. Glass Tile has become more popular with the drop in prices over the last decade. Glass Tile comes in sizes from 6”x6” field tiles to ¾” mosaic tiles. Many people use it as an accent to a field of ceramic tiles, or the entire surface can be done with glass.

Natural Stone (Granite, Slate, Marble, Travertine, Limestone) Granite is a dense-grained hard stone. It's actually the second hardest known substance next to diamonds. Granite is an igneous rock formed either from the melting of sediments deep within the earth or through magma (lava) activity that has heated and cooled. These sediments were held under extreme pressure and temperatures for millions of years, then brought to the surface of the earth through upheaval of the crust that formed mountains. This process produces granite, a quartz-based product, which combines strength and durability with rich patterns and veining. Minerals within granite typically appear as small flecks throughout the stone, often creating a salt and pepper look. Other types of granite have veining similar to marble. After polishing, natural granite will maintain its high gloss finish virtually forever. It also cleans in seconds. Because of its durability, it can be used successfully on kitchen countertops, wet bars, entry walls, floors, fireplaces and bathroom vanities. Flamed or honed granite can be used almost anywhere. Buyers should note that no two natural stone tiles will be the same-each has its own natural beauty. Homeowners must be sure to seal the stone periodically, however, in order to maintain that beauty.

Slate is a fine-grained, metamorphic rock, commonly derived from sedimentary rock shale. It's composed mostly of micas, chlorite, and quartz and is best suited for floors, walkways and roofing, and recently has been used attractively for kitchen countertops and wet bars. It's a dense, very tough composite that's typically available in blacks, grays and greens, although many other colors can also be found in slate products. Slate shades within the same color family often vary. Veined patterns from overseas have also recently been introduced. Unless it has been honed smooth, slate's surface can be recognized by its distinct cleft pattern.

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Marble is one of the more popular natural stones, formed from fossil sediment deposits that have been pressed by the natural geologic forces of nature for millions of years. Much as diamonds are created from coal, marble was once limestone that underwent a metamorphosis from the intense pressures and high temperatures within the earth. The combination of the natural materials in these deposits, along with natural geologic events, produces unique colors and veining with a richness of depth and intensity. Most marble products are generally softer than granites and have more porosity than granite. Since marble is a softer stone than granite, it's most often used in bathroom walls and flooring, as well as for tub decks, fireplace surrounds, furniture, sculptures and courtyards. Marble is not recommended for kitchens unless the stone is honed and sealed.

Travertine is a variety of limestone formed in pools by the precipitation of hot mineral-rich spring water. Travertine is another form of marble that's less dense than a high-grade marble and highly porous. The divots that are characteristic of travertine were created by carbon dioxide bubbles that became trapped as the stone was being formed. Travertine can have a honed, unfinished surface, or the holes can be filled and then polished to a high gloss. It's best used in entry walls, floors, fireplace surrounds, vanities, shower walls, tub decks and mosaics, but is not recommended for kitchen or wet bar countertops since it can be easily scratched. It can also be easily stained by fruit juices and alcoholic products. Its colors usually range from light beige to brown. Travertine does require a degree of special care, as some cleaning products can be destructive to its surface.

Limestone is a form of marble that's less dense than marble or travertine (see below). Limestone is a sedimentary rock consisting mostly of calcium carbonate and is formed from the remains of ancient sea life, such as oysters, mussels, and other ancient shellfish and invertebrates, which have dropped to the sandy bottom of ancient seas and then compressed over millions of years. Limestone is a common stone found in many parts of the world in excellent abundance. Limestone generally varies in earthy colors such as off-white, grey or beige. If the limestone contains the mineral dolomite, it becomes harder in nature and can be polished to a shine much like marble can. Its best uses are for structural walls, entry walls, floors, fireplace surrounds, vanities and shower walls. It's generally not recommended for kitchen countertops and wet bars because fruit juices and alcohol products can stain it and limestone is prone to scratches.

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Metal – Copper, Brass, Stainless Steel, Nickel, Zinc, Pewter, etc. Metal wall tiles can be made from many types of materials . Material selection for metal wall tiles can vary from stainless steel which is resistant to rust, to copper which is quite resistant to deep corrosion, in that it will not rust but will turn from a reddish-orange to a classic reddish-brown color as it ages in moist air. Even Zinc which has a bluish-white appearance may be used to coat steel and iron metal wall tiles giving them a unique color. Some say that zinc has germicidal qualities. Metal wall tiles will have a natural variation in color and sheen that is part of its overall elegance. These metals, particularly bronze, will age and beautify over time developing a natural patina. High points will become brighter with wear and cleaning while low points will tend to darken, adding richness and texture. Many homes have decided to add the elegance of metal wall tiles to there ceramic tile design to achieve a unique and personal touch so many home owners desire. With metal wall tiles home owners may attain tile designs found in ancient Italy, Spain, or Greece. For the modern home owner metal wall tiles will put the finishing touch on that one-of-kind artistic design you are trying to finish. Shiny metal wall tiles with swirl or special etched designs will spice up any kitchen, bathroom, or dinning room.

Tile Selections There are 1000s of different styles and colors of tiles. Here are a few places to start looking. There are many local showrooms and online dealers with more selections.

daltile.com morristile.com flooranddecoroutlets.com

metalwalltiles.net subwaytile.com

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Tile Patterns Symmetry is important in any pattern. One common pattern is using a larger field tile for the shower walls, plus a smaller (sometimes made of a different material) accent tile used to make a line at eye height or just above the knee, or both. It’s very common to use a different tile for the shower base than the walls. Some of the more common tile patterns: Straight Layout 45-degree Diagonal

Pinwheel

Herringbone Brick (Staggered)

Offset Stagger Versailles

This website has a sampling of the more common tile patterns.

daltileproducts.com/tile_patterns.cfm

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Grout Ceramic tiles are attractive and durable, and when properly installed, they can last for many years. The grout in the joints between the tiles is a key component in the structure of a tiled surface, and different types of grout are suitable for different applications.

Sanded Cement Grout consists of cement, sand, and water mixed together. It can be mixed on the job or purchased premixed. The sand in the grout provides strength to the grout and allows it to support heavier tiles. Sanded grout is also less prone to shrinkage as it dries than nonsanded grout. For these reasons, sanded grout is used when the gap between tiles is greater than 1/8 inch and when heavy tiles are used. Color choices for cement-based grouts are limited. Cement-based grouts also are porous and must be sealed to resist water absorption, bacteria growth, and mildew.

Nonsanded Cement Grout is a mixture of cement and water. It often contains fillers and a water-retentive additive that allows it to be applied to dry tiles. Cement grout without this additive must be applied to wet tiles to ensure proper drying of the grout. Nonsanded is best used in situations where the tile joint is less than 1/8 inch. Because the sand in grout can scratch tiles, nonsanded grout is also used on tiles with delicate finishes. Like sanded grout, nonsanded grout must be sealed.

Epoxy Grout is made with an epoxy resin and hardener, along with fillers and pigments. Epoxy grout is stronger and more flexible than cement grout. It is water-resistant, so it does not require sealing, and is particularly suitable for use in bathrooms and kitchens. Epoxy grout is also stain-resistant, and it is less prone to the growth of bacteria and mildew than cement grout. The primary drawback of epoxy grout is its cost; it is significantly more expensive than cement grout.

Specialty Grouts Some cement grouts are supplemented with a latex polymer that makes them more water-resistant. Conversely, some epoxy grouts are augmented with Portland cement, giving them the appearance of cement grout while retaining the benefits of epoxy grout. Grouts used on tiles that are exposed to chemicals sometimes use special additives in their mixtures rather than water, which gives the grout increased chemical resistance.

laticrete.com mapei.com

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Product Options

After choosing the style for the bathroom, it’s time to choose all of the products. Since many of the products you choose will affect other choices, here is a good order in which to choose those items:

1. Wall and Floor Tile 2. Accent Tile 3. Grout Color 4. Paint Color 5. Tub 6. Shower Faucet / Metal Finish Color 7. Sink 8. Sink Faucet 9. Toilet 10. Medicine Cabinet / Mirror 11. Lights / Fan 12. Accessories – Towel Bars, TP Holder, Hooks, etc.

Often there is a focus-piece in the bathroom which a person’s eyes will be drawn to. This can be something like an unusual shaped tub or a vanity mirror with a great frame. Choose it first, then go through the list in order, so everything else is coordinated to it.

Shower and Tub Refinishing or Replacement Whether to replace or refinish a tub depends on its condition and whether you still like the style. If the worst thing is a few scratches, then it is possible to repair an acrylic or fiberglass shower/tub for very little money. The porcelain on cast iron or steel tubs that is chipped, scratched, and dull, may be refinished with an acrylic urethane which will return it to like new condition and last for 5-10 years or more. It’s not quite as durable or perfect as the original porcelain, but can save from $300-2000 versus full replacement. The wall tile in the shower can also be refinished in the same way, with a variety of colors available. Both the tile and grout will be covered, so it will cover any existing and prevent future stained grout.

nationaltubandtile.com porcelaintubs.com miraclemethod.com

Tub Types

Recessed (Alcove) Tub – One finished side showing, and is bordered on the other three sides by your bathroom walls. A Corner Tub is like a recessed tub, except you see two sides of the tub. It has one finished side and one finished end, so it fits into a corner. These come in many different styles. They can be a good choice for a tighter space, to help create a more open feeling.

Freestanding Tubs – Finished on all sides and can be placed anywhere – smack dab in the middle of the room or tucked into a corner. They also allow for unique design approaches, such as a claw-foot tub in a more traditional setting, or a soapstone tub in a more modern design.

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Platform Tubs – No finished sides, but are placed into a structure built on site and can go anywhere in the room that space allows. This is a great choice if you want to customize the surrounding platform to match your décor. A platform tub can rest on top of the platform, so that the lip of the tub is showing, or can be recessed below the edge of the platform for a clean line. Just keep in mind how the edge of the platform will feel on the back of your neck as you lean back in the tub. Platform tubs are usually the most expensive type, since you have to build the entire surround as well.

Whirlpools – Just like regular tubs, whirlpools come in recessed, corner, freestanding and platform types, in a myriad of styles, sizes and colors. Whirlpool platform tubs are the most popular choice. A whirlpool has a pump which mixes air with bathwater and forces it out the jets, creating those massaging bubbles. They are made with 2 types of jet systems, either fish-hook which uses a small number of large jets, or the specific-point system, which has a larger number of smaller jets (which massage specific points on the body). There are also tubs that include both systems for lots of bubbles and specific massage jets. * Smaller bathtubs will hold 30-40 gallons of water, with a person in it. Larger bathtubs may hold 90 gallons of water and require a new water heater and additional floor supports. The general rule is your water heater should be 2/3 the size of the bathtub, at a minimum. If the water heater is older or you don’t want to use up all your hot water with one bath, then a larger water heater is recommended.

Tub Materials

Enameled Cast Iron – A popular choice that will last for decades. It has a very substantial, timeless look, is durable, retains heat well, comes in a wide variety of colors and, though not the cheapest choice, standard models are affordable. The downside of cast iron is that it’s VERY heavy! An empty tub can weigh over 300 pounds. Make sure that your floor is well braced to support the load. The enamel can also chip, showing the black cast iron underneath. The enamel can be resurfaced, but it’s not cheap to have done, and claw foot or special orders tubs can be very pricey. Pros – Very substantial, timeless look, durable, wide variety of colors, retains heat well, mid-range price. Cons – VERY heavy – floor may need to be reinforced to support tub, can chip so you see the black cast iron below, fancier (claw foot) more expensive.

Enameled Steel – Much lighter and more affordable than cast iron, but with a similar look. Since it’s thinner it can also chip easily and can be noisy when water hits it. It can also dent on installation and the color supply is somewhat limited. Pros – More affordable and lighter than cast iron, but with a similar look. Cons – Can chip easily, limited colors, can be noisy when water hits it, can dent on installation.

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Fiberglass – Another affordable alternative. Although it is lightweight and comes in lots of styles, color selection is limited. It also doesn’t hold heat well, can scratch and fade and is not as durable as acrylic. It has gel coat which can begin to peel, especially if any type of abrasive cleaner is used. The gel coat can be refinished. Pros – Affordable, lots of styles, lightweight. Cons – Finish is not as durable as acrylic, doesn’t hold heat well, can scratch and fade, limited colors.

Acrylic Tubs – Available in a wide choice of styles, colors and sizes. It is more durable than fiberglass, lightweight, and will hold heat well if properly insulated. It is more expensive than fiberglass, however, and can scratch and stain (especially with hair dye). Acrylic can be refinished and light scratches removed. Pros – Wide choice of styles, colors and sizes, more durable than fiberglass, lightweight, holds heat well if insulated. Cons – More expensive than fiberglass, can scratch and stain (especially with hair dye).

Cast Polymers – Cultured Marble, Granite or Onyx, look like stone, but can be molded like synthetics. They are thicker than acrylic and hold heat well. The gel coat finish is not as durable as acrylic and they can be pricey. Pros – Looks like stone, thicker than acrylic, holds heat well. Cons – Gel-coat finish not as durable as acrylic.

Higher-end alternatives – Although limited in styles and very expensive, are becoming increasingly available. Soapstone, well-suited for a timeless or contemporary custom look, is an excellent choice for a tub because it retains heat so well, although it is heavy. Brass and copper tubs also retain heat well and the thicker gauges resist dents. Soapstone Pros – Retains heat well, good for timeless or contemporary look. Cons – Very expensive, heavy. Metal – Brass, Copper Pros – Creates a custom look, thicker gauges resists dents. Cons – Very expensive, limited sizes and shapes.

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Shower Types & Materials

Shower Stall without Tub – Many people never use the tub and prefer the look and convenience of a full shower stall with just a curb instead of a tub. Made of either acrylic, soapstone, or covered with tiles made from a variety of materials (ceramic, porcelain, glass, copper, natural stone, etc.). Acrylic surround panels can have shelves and a soap dish molded into them. The colors and options are limited, but is the cheapest way to install a shower. Using Tile to cover the wall of a shower is by far the most common and preferred method. Ceramic is the most common, but there are a variety of materials available. Because the floor of the stall is tiled, it is the weak point in keep water in the shower. If not built correctly, water can leak into the ceiling below the shower and cause damage. Leaks usually come from the corners where the wall meets the floor or from around the drain. A shower system with a full water-proof membrane and a special wide-rimmed drain connection should be used with all tiled shower stalls. Difference styles/sizes of tile can be mixed to create a dramatic design in the shower stall. Either surface-mounted or recessed shelves and soap dishes can be added, for convenience. A seat can be framed as part of the stall, then covered with tile. A tiled shower stall also offers many options for a truly special experience, including multi-jet shower systems, steam shower system, overhead rainfall shower head, overhead lighting, multi-color accent lighting, music, and other great products. A curtain is a budget conscience way to enclose the shower. There are many options in glass doors and panels, including a standard framed glass door, custom-made frameless doors/panels, and some truly unique styles. The panels can be clear, different types/colors of frosting, or have designs frosted onto the glass.

schluter.com blankecorp.com

Tub with Shower – An alcove tub with a shower is standard in most houses. Real estate agents say that having at least one tub in a house helps the resale. The walls are covered with a waterproof material (Acrylic, Tiles, etc.) from the tub to somewhere from 6’ off the floor or sometimes all the way to the ceiling. Many of the options available in a shower stall without a tub, are also available with a tub. Depending on whether a person normally takes baths or showers may decide the placement of shelves and the soap dish.

Bathroom Sink Types

Freestanding Sink – Mounted on the wall and exposed to view, either with or without a pedestal for extra support. On the downside, there will be no extra storage space under the sink. But a freestanding sink allows for a clean, open look, and can be an excellent choice for tight spaces. They can make a small space feel larger by exposing more of the floor and wall. If you prefer a freestanding sink, but need a little space for personal items, choose a sink that has some built-in counter space, a larger medicine cabinet, or a cabinet over the toilet for extra storage.

Vanity-mounted Sink – will add not only storage space, but also endless design possibilities. You can choose a ready-made vanity, have one custom-made or retrofit a piece of furniture (antiques work well for this purpose). There are several different mounting options for the sink. Self-rimming sinks sit on the countertop. Rimmed sinks sit just above and are joined to the counter by a metal rim. Under-mounted sinks sit below the counter, emphasizing the countertop more than the sink. Under-mounted is a great choice for easy clean-up, but be sure to have a counter that is waterproof all the way through, such as stone or solid-surface. You can also buy sinks that are integrated into the countertop. They give a clean, smooth look, and are very easy to clean. They eliminate the need for caulking, which can get moldy over time. However, if one or the other gets damaged, you will have to replace the whole unit.

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Vessel Sinks – Look like a bowl on top of the countertop. You can find anything from a plain, round, white bowl, to a freeform, hand-blown, colored glass vessel. Vessel sinks sit atop the counter, level with the drain. Generally the sink is the focal point, and faucets are usually wall mounted, since there are no holes in the sink. There are also flush-mounted sinks, often tiled, where counter and sink meet flush.

Bathroom Sink Materials

Ceramic Sinks – Made of plain, or decorative, vitreous china. White, and many pastels shades, are very affordable. Ceramic sinks are durable, easy to clean, and there are many styles, shapes and colors to choose from. Most pedestal-style, ceramic sinks will be more expensive. Pros – Low moisture absorption, easy to clean, keeps color well, many styles, shapes, colors and designs to choose from, plain is very affordable, pottery gives a custom look. Cons – Can chip or crack. Pottery, freestanding, and decorative sinks can be pricey.

Pottery Sinks – Made in limited batches or are custom made. They provide a unique design element. Although fairly durable, with too much wear and tear, pottery sinks can crack or chip.

Stainless Steel – Usually associated with the kitchen, but can make an interesting statement in the bathroom as well, especially in more contemporary designs. Quality and cost will depend on gauge (smaller numbers are thicker and more expensive) and nickel content (which gives a smoother, shinier look).

They are durable and easy to maintain. Better quality (18 gauge) ones will resist water spots and scratches, but they can be pricey. Thinner ones (22 gauge) may dent and show scratches easily. Pros – Durable, easy to maintain, better quality (18 gauge) resists water spots, dents and scratches, thinner is readily available and very affordable. Cons – Thinner stainless (22 gauge) is easily dented and shows scratches more easily.

Enameled Steel – Resembles cast iron, but is thinner and much lighter in weight. It is affordable and fairly easy to maintain, but the enamel finish can crack or chip easily. Pros – Lightweight, thin. Cons – Enamel finish can chip easily or crack.

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Enameled Cast Iron – Another option which gives a solid, traditional look. It's easy to clean, chip-resistant, and available in a wide range of colors. It is a very heavy material though, so make sure your countertop can support it. If you’re doing it yourself have someone help you install it. Pros – Thickness gives solid look, affordable, easy to clean, chip-resistant and available in a wide range of colors. Cons – Heavy – Countertop may need extra support, do-it-yourselfers may need extra hands to install. Colors and special shapes can be pricey.

Cast Polymer – Cultured Marble, Granite or Onyx. It's made to replicate stone, but can be molded into different shapes for a themed décor. It's an affordable choice for people on a budget. Cultured marble sinks can be integrated into the countertop, thus eliminating the need for caulking. However, it often does not hold its initial shine well and the top coat can crack. It can also burn, so if you choose cast polymer, don't put hot hairdryers down on the countertop. Pros – Looks like stone, but comes in various shapes for themed decor, affordable. Integrated sink and countertop eliminates the need to use caulking (which can get moldy). Cons – Top gel coat may crack and burn, doesn’t hold shine well, especially on darker colors.

Cultured Marble – A nice mid-priced alternative. It generally costs a little more than a Laminate Countertop with a Self Rimming Sink. But you have to be careful with a laminate countertop in the bathroom. Over time it can warp and crumble from over-exposure to water.

Solid Surface Sinks – Acrylic or Polyester Resins (such as Corian®). Durable, stain resistant, and they're

available in lots of colors. Pieces can be cut to make custom shapes and designs. For a seamless look the sink can be integrated into the countertop. However this material must be installed by licensed professional or any warrantee will be voided. Pros – Stain resistant, lots of colors, durable. Pieces can be fused to integrate sink into countertop or make custom shapes and designs. Cons – Must be installed by licensed professional or warrantee is voided. Integrated designs can be expensive.

Other Materials – Though often very expensive, can be used to make a unique statement with your bathroom sink. Consider stone such as Soapstone, Granite or Marble, or high-end metals, such as Brass, Copper, or even

Gold-plate. Or perhaps the statement you want to make lies in a hand-blown Glass Bowl, layered with metals. Pros – Create a custom look. Cons – Expensive to very expensive, metals high maintenance to keep new-looking, glass can crack or chip, stone can scratch.

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Faucets One place you definitely want to purchase at least a mid-level product is with faucets. Most products for the bathroom with last for a couple of decades, no matter what price-level they are at, faucets are not all made the same. The lowest cost faucets may break in just a few years. The mid-to-high level faucets will last for the lifetime of the bathroom, with just a washer/cartridge replacement every decade or two. The finish color for the faucets should match each other and match the finish on the other metal items in the bathroom, like the towel bars and TP holder.

Shower/Tub Faucet There are many options for shower/tub faucets. The standard setup is either 1-2 handles for the hot/cold water and if it there is a tub, then either another handle for the diverter or a pull lever on the tub spout. There are more advanced setups including a standard shower head and a separate hand-held wand, with a diverter to switch between. There are multi-jet shower systems with from 3-20 jets coming out of the walls and ceiling. Some people prefer just a single rainfall shower head coming out of the center of the ceiling. A person who takes a lot of baths instead of showers may prefer the controls on the side wall instead of above the tub spout on the end wall. The options for shower/tub faucets are extensive and can create a unique bathing experience.

Sink Faucet The choice of sink faucet will often be dictated by your other product choices. Most manufacturers sell matching sink faucets to their shower faucets, but at least make sure you match the finish color. Vessel sinks will require a long-neck faucet. There are different length necks on faucets. To prevent rubbing your hands on the back of the sink to get them under the stream or having the water splash out the front of the sink, the end of the faucet should be about 1/3 of the way from the back of the sink and no higher above the top of the sink than the sink is deep. Sink faucets come in 1 hole, 3 hole – 4” spread, and 3 hole – 8” spread, or Wall-mounted. Make sure the sink matches the faucet.

Toilet While some people don’t think much about the toilet they choose, they are a few options which can affect the look of the bathroom and comfort of use. The color should match the sink and/or tub color, in most bathroom designs. You have a choice between the following: Bowl Type Round or Elongated Construction One-piece or Two-piece Seat Height Standard 15” or Taller 17-19” Toilets are tested for performance by something called a MaP Test, which attempts to test for real-world performance. To check to make sure the toilet you choose will perform as you want, check the test results at:

toiletabcs.com/pdf/MaP-Toilet-Test-Results-9th-Edition.pdf

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Storage Cabinets / Medicine Cabinet / Mirror With the storage needs in a bathroom, usually a vanity cabinet under the sink and/or an over-the-toilet cabinet are used for storage. Alternatively, other

types of cabinets or recessed shelves, can be used for storage instead. Be sure you plan enough room for your needs. Whether to use a surface-mount medicine cabinet, a recessed medicine cabinet, or just a mirror over the sink will depend on the space available, other choices for storage, and the style you want in the bathroom. Medicine cabinets come with 1, 2, or 3 doors and are usually covered with a mirror. Some medicine cabinets designed for sidewall use, instead of over-the-sink use, have decorative doors instead.

medicinecabinetshop.com nutone.com

Lights Proper Lighting Levels in a bathroom are crucial because of the detailed grooming tasks. A variety of lighting options are available. Lighting over the sink area can be accomplished with either a vanity light over-the-mirror, wall sconces on either side of the mirror, or recessed lights in the ceiling over the sink. Depending on the size and shape of the bathroom additional lighting may be necessary, including a recessed ceiling light in the shower, a surface-mounted or recessed ceiling light in the main room, or a Fan/Light Combo. lightinguniverse.com lightingdirect.com lightolier.com

Exhaust Fan An exhaust fan is required in any bathroom without a window and should be in even those bathrooms with a window. A traditional bath fan is recessed into the ceiling and is exhausted to the exterior of the house either through the roof or wall of the house. Many bath fans installed years ago were vented into the attic and must be rerouted if a new fan is installed. One of the options with the exhaust fan is using a model with a light built into it. These can either be recessed, like a traditional fan, or look like a surface-mounted light fixture. Since it is normally ideal to have the bath exhaust fan running for 10 minutes or so after leaving the bathroom, a simple added convenience is a timer switch instead of a toggle switch. It is recommended to use a fan which is powerful enough replace all of the air in a room 8 times per hour. Fans are rated by Cubic Foot per Minute (CFM). A standard 5’x8’ bathroom with 8’ tall ceiling would require a bath fan of at least 40 CFM. Another rating on bath exhaust fans is the Sones, which is a sound rating. A standard bath exhaust fan is 4.0. If you prefer a very quiet bath fan, then choose one with a Sones rating under 1.0.

Background Sound Level Typical Sones Comfort Level Rustling Trees 0.5 Noise Free Evening Outdoors In Suburbs 1 Open Office 1.5 to 2 Comfortable Verbal Conversation TV & Radio 3 to 4 Traffic Noise 5 to 8 Noticeable Background Noise

broan.com nutone.com panasonic.com

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Under Floor Heating Under floor heating can provide welcome warmth on those winter mornings when the floor tile is so cold. It also can lower utility bills. There are two primary types of systems.

Electric Mats and Cables These are special insulated electrical cables which are installed on the subfloor. These either come in rolls of cable or on plastic mats into which the cable is woven. The cables/mat is imbedded in mortar when the floor tile is installed. A thermostat switch is on the wall gives you control of the heating. Electric is usually the most cost effective approach to under floor heating.

thermosoft.com ezfloorheat.com

Hot Water (PEX) These systems run PEX tubing under the tile or under the subfloor. These are tied into a boiler system, which is heated by either the home’s utilities or through a solar hot water system. Because of the expense of the boiler system, usually this form of under floor heating is only done in houses with an existing system.

pexheat.com houseneeds.com

Other Heat Sources Besides under floor heating, there are other ways to get extra heat into the bathroom for comfort on cold mornings. With some of these products, a 7-day programmable thermostat can be used to turn the heater on and make the room warm before you normally enter. Electric Wall Heater Electric Ceiling Heater and Exhaust Fan/Heater Combo Heat Lamp Towel Bar Heaters Baseboard Heater bathheat.com warmzone.com eheat.com heateroutlet.com

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Accessories – Towel Bars, TP Holder, Hooks, etc. Every bathroom needs a few other accessories to make it functional, like towel bars and TP holder. There are also a wide variety of accessories to make your bathroom experience functional, enjoyable, and comfortable like:

Hooks Towel Rings Shelves Baskets Shower Curtain Hand Towels Washcloths Bath Towels Toothbrush Holder Soap Dish or Pump Tissue Holder Waste Basket Toilet Seat Cover Plaques or Pictures Rugs Scale

Other Accessories – Music, TV, Lighting, etc. For those who want even more in the bathroom, then there are a wide range of other options. Music can come from radio stations, HD radio, IPod, Smart Phone, Media Server, etc. The waterproof speakers can be mounted anywhere in the bathroom, either recessed or surface-mounted. Music controls are varied and include: on a wall, in the shower, and by remote. There are even waterproof touch screens available. Regular or waterproof TV screens can be used to bring you cable broadcasts or DVD movies. They come in a variety forms including hidden in the sink mirror. There are also different lighting options including small accent lights, rope lights, colored lights, shower lighting systems, faucets which light the stream depending on the temperature of the water, translucent countertops and sinks which light up from underneath, etc. There are new exciting products coming out every year.

legrand.us/residential/bathroom-solutions.aspx evervue.com aqsound.com videotree.com

Tub, Toilet, Sink, Faucet, and Accessory Suppliers faucetdirect.com efaucets.com csnstores.com fixtureuniverse.com (atgstores.com) vintagetub.com

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Research / Catalogs

Design Inspiration Galleries NKBA Inspiration Gallery nkba.org/Dream.aspx HGTV Designers Portfolio hgtv.com/designers-portfolio/bathrooms/index.html DIY.com Home Improvement diynetwork.com/topics/bathroom-decorating/index.html

Tile & Grout Tile Selections daltile.com morristile.com flooranddecoroutlets.com

metalwalltiles.net subwaytile.com Tile Patterns

daltileproducts.com/tile_patterns.cfm Grout Manufacturers and Color Cards

laticrete.com mapei.com

Products Tub Refinishing

nationaltubandtile.com porcelaintubs.com miraclemethod.com Tile Underlayment, Shower Membranes, and Metal Profiles

schluter.com blankecorp.com Toilet Performance Ratings toiletabcs.com/pdf/MaP-Toilet-Test-Results-9th-Edition.pdf Medicine and Storage Cabinets medicinecabinetshop.com nutone.com Lights lightinguniverse.com lightingdirect.com lightolier.com (Recessed Lights) Exhaust Fan

broan.com nutone.com panasonic.com Under Floor Heating

Electric Mats and Cables thermosoft.com ezfloorheat.com

Hot Water (PEX) pexheat.com houseneeds.com Other Heat Sources bathheat.com warmzone.com eheat.com

heateroutlet.com Music, TV, Lighting, etc.

legrand.us/residential/bathroom-solutions.aspx evervue.com aqsound.com videotree.com

Tub, Toilet, Sink, Faucet, and Accessory Suppliers faucetdirect.com efaucets.com csnstores.com

fixtureuniverse.com (atgstores.com) vintagetub.com

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Services and Rates

*These rates are an approximate cost for labor and building materials. The cost of the products you choose are not included. These costs are shown for budgeting purposes only. Each house is unique and actual rates may vary. Trip charges, material delivery, and non-standard building material requirements will be extra.

Complete Bathroom Remodel in standard 5’x8’ bathroom (inc. building materials) $7000-12000 Full Bathroom Demo and Waste Removal $500-1500 Tub Refinishing $450-650 Tub Replacement $800-1500 + tub cost Install and finish new drywall in standard 5’x8’ bathroom (inc. all materials) $1300 Prime and Paint 2 coats in standard 5’x8’ bathroom (inc. all materials) $1100 Prime and Paint 1 side of door and door frame white – Replace hinges and hardware $300 Repair 1’ hole in wall/ceiling – Paint to match $400 Shim wall studs or floor joists to straighten for tile $35 ea. (≤ 8ft.) 1.25” Subfloor Installation for tile $300 per 25sq.ft. Tile backerboard or Ditra installation $125 per 25sq.ft. Kerdi Shower-proof Membrane Installation $160 per 25sq.ft. Shower Base and Drain for Tiled Shower Stall $400 per 12sq.ft. Curb for Tiled Shower Stall $150 per 3ln.ft. Tile Installation (inc. cement-based polymer grout – not inc. tile cost) 12”x12” Floor $16/sq.ft. 6”x6” Floor $20/sq.ft. 1” Mosaic Floor $35/sq.ft. 8”x12” Wall $16/sq.ft. 4”x4” Wall $25/sq.ft. 1” Mosaic Wall $35/sq.ft. Recessed Tiled Shelf $250-300 ea. Surface-Mounted Shelf/Soap-dish $75 ea. Install new Toilet on existing flange $200 Replace Toilet Flange (not including floor or drywall repairs) existing PVC $100-200 existing cast iron $400+ Replacement of all bathroom plumbing fixtures and tie into existing lines,

including tub, toilet, sink, faucets, and shutoff valves $2000-3500 New 20A electrical circuit from panel to bathroom (not including drywall repairs) $250-400 Replace switches and wallplate $15 ea. Replace GFI receptacle and wallplate $50 Replace or install new wiring and wiring boxes $80-250 ea. line Replace exhaust fan (not including drywall repairs – inc. standard 50 cfm fan) $275 Recessed Medicine Cabinet $180 Surface-Mounted Medicine Cabinet or Mirror $50 New Baseboards – Installation, Caulk, Paint (inc. standard-sized pine baseboards) $8/ft. New Base Tile – Installation and Grout $8/ft. Replace HVAC vent cover $40 Install towel bar or TP holder $35 ea. New Access Panel $50-200 5’x5’ Glass Shower Door Installation (framed or semi-frameless) $450 Wainscot Installation – Sheets (inc. caulk, prime, and paint white semi-gloss) $450 per 8ln.ft.

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Bathroom Design Rates

Basic Design Package $300

• Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.

• 1-2 Design Meetings to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.

• Basic 2D CAD Plans necessary for construction

Intermediate Design Package $500

• Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.

• 1-2 Design Meetings to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.

• One Personal Shopping Assistance Trip to tile store or other supplier.

• Basic 2D CAD Plans necessary for permits.

Advanced Design Package $1000+

• Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.

• Initial Design Meeting with a licensed Interior Designer to discuss available products choices, styles, and other ideas. Further thought and research can be conducted by the Client after this meeting.

• 1-2 Additional Design Meetings to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.

• Professionally drafted 2D CAD Plans

Premium Design Package $1500+

• Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.

• Initial Design Meeting with a licensed Interior Designer to discuss available products choices, styles, and other ideas. Further thought and research can be conducted by the Client after this meeting.

• 1-2 Additional Design Meeting(s) with the Interior Designer and/or Contractor to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.

• Professionally drafted 2D CAD Plans

• Professionally made 3D Presentation

* Additional Design Meetings, Changes to Plans, and Shopping Assistance will be charged at $50/hr. + mileage & expenses.