Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

  • 8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

    1/5

    Blazers: A/W 14/15 men's commercial update

    By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 24 October 2013

    traditional-feeling premium materials and rich autumnal colour are the most

    Grainy tweed

    Combining tailoring tradition with clean, contemporary styling, salt-and-pepper tweeds lend simple,

    classic jacket shapes such as the two-button blazer an element of premium-feeling texture, and have a

    heavyweight quality that works well for the winter season. As seen across the suiting trends for next

    season, styling is laid-back, including luxe polo shirts and polo-neck sweaters, or fisherman-style knits

    Source: Hunger, autumn/winter 2013/14

    WGSN ANALYSIS

    "We're exploring a linkbetween the growingpopularity of grainytweeds for blazers andthe commercialsuccess of neppyjersey pieces overrecent seasons, as it

    translates that samefocus on tactile,premium-feelingtraditional fabrics intotailoring in a way thatfeels familiar andaccessible"

    "Velvet is important, asare eveningwearinfluences in generalthis season, but thelook is becoming

    increasingly casualand these tux-inspiredjackets work wellstyled with relaxedknits and jerseybasics"

    "Windowpane check isa strong message thatseems set to continue,in keeping with thefocus on classicsartorial looks, butupdates for fashion-ledretailers includebrighter shades usedas pop contrasts"

    Sara MaggioniSenior Editor, What's inStore, WGSN

    WGSN 2013

    http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/00_Overview/009.jpg.rendition.medium.jpg
  • 8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

    2/5

    such as those layered under jackets at Topman.

    Velvet

    The traditional dinner jacket is a huge reference for next season, as reflected in the proportion of these

    blazer updates dedicated to opulent-feeling materials and colour directions, and velvet sits firmly in this

    category as a key development for tuxedo-style jackets. Its sharp retro appeal is further emphasised with

    classic eveningwear trims, such as matching black satin for lapels, while shrunken fits - as seen at Acne-ntroduce a modern edge.

    Windowpane check

    n terms of pattern, the windowpane check has become increasingly important for tailoring - not picked

    up in the suits commercial updatethis season, but focused on blazers instead. Relevant across bothsingle- and double-breasted jacket silhouettes, it brings an element of sartorial tradition while also feeling

    relatively clean and stripped back, bringing a contemporary edge to one-button jackets such as those at

    .

    Source: Mixte, autumn/winter 2013/14 Bergdorf Goodman autumn/winter

    2013/14 lookbook

    Remus Uomo autumn/winter 2013/14

    lookbook

    Topman autumn/winter 2013/14

    campaign

    Jonathan Daniel Pryce for WGSN street

    shot, Jacket Required, February 2013

    Source: Another Man, autumn/winter

    2013/14

    Acne autumn/winter 2013/14 Smalto autumn/winter 2013/14 lookbook

    WGSN 2013

    http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/smal2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/acne002.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/021.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/02feb/Jacket_Required/JcktReqd020713_159.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/topmancamp2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/REMUS2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/Wilkommen7.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/MrMrs6.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.remusuomo.com/en/http://localhost:7503/content/report/Commercial_Updates/Menswear/AW14/suiting_aw_14_commercial_update.htmlhttp://www.acnestudios.com/http://www.topman.com/
  • 8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

    3/5

    Cobalt blue

    An exciting colour direction that we've been tracking as its influence has spread from the catwalk into the

    arger menswear market, bold blues bring something unexpected to tailoring that works best as a new

    twist on next season's all-important eveningwear references. Jacquards and plush fabrics are important

    n terms of dressed-up styling, but traditional wools look impressive too - particularly the cobalt-blue wool

    and mohair mix at Smalto.

    Wine reds

    A more traditional colour direction associated with autumn eveningwear and one that sits particularly well

    with luxurious, tactile fabrics such as velvet and corduroy, rich shades of burgundy and claret reinforce

    the importance of tuxedo-inspired decadence on formalwear for next season. The look also works

    brilliantly across more versatile daytime tailoring, as illustrated by simple two-button jackets at Lanvin,styled with retro polo-neck knits.

    Source: L'Officiel Hommes Paris,

    autumn/winter 2013/14

    GSN street shot, Milan Fashion Week,

    January 2013

    Remus Uomo autumn/winter 2013/14

    lookbook

    Ramsey autumn/winter 2013/14

    lookbook

    Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013/14

    ookbook

    Smalto autumn/winter 2013/14 lookbook Suitsupply autumn/winter 2013/14

    campaign

    Lapo Elkann x Gucci autumn/winter

    2013/14

    WGSN 2013

    http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/lapo7.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/supply1675x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/smal5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/tomford.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/rsey1275x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/REMUS5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/01jan/Milan_mw/Day_02/064_Milan_menswear_aw_1314_Day_2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/HittMan5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.lanvin.com/#/en/newshttp://www.smalto.com/en
  • 8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

    4/5

    Floral jacquards

    Taking dressed-up eveningwear looks to the height of flamboyant luxury are these silk-jacquard and

    tapestry-style florals, used across both dinner jackets and shrunken-fit blazers. Perfect for younger

    retailers and premium brands with a view to the the party season, this strong vintage mood has been

    given a new lease of life thanks to the Louis Vuittoncollaboration with artists the Chapman Brothers thisseason, using a darker style of floral.

    Shrunken fit

    With colour, pattern and material dominating developments for blazers next season, the focus has

    been less on silhouettes, as the double-breasted jacket, tuxedo and two-button single-breasted jacket

    are naturally carried over from autumn/winter's new suiting directions. One new shape worth calling

    out is the shrunken fit, a youthful-feeling and versatile block that's also being adopted by more grown-

    up tailoring-led brands such as De Fursac.

    Source: King, autumn/winter 2013/14 Suitsupply autumn/winter 2013/14

    campaign

    Lanvin autumn/winter 2013/14 El Burgus autumn/winter 2013/14

    campaign

    Source: Numero Homme, autumn/winter

    2013/14

    Source: Another Man, autumn/winter

    2013/14

    Source: Another Man, autumn/winter

    2013/14

    Source: Hercules Universal,

    autumn/winter 2013/14

    WGSN 2013

    http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/SuburbanHeat5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/TheAnarchy2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/031.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/CultSecret5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/burge5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/lan011arge.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/supply15x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/BenjamBille2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.defursac.fr/en/home.aspxhttp://www.louisvuitton.co.uk/front/#/eng_GB/Collections/Men/Show-Fall-Winter-2013
  • 8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update

    5/5

    Source: L'Officiel Hommes Germany,

    autumn/winter 2013/14

    De Fursac autumn/winter 2013/14 Topman autumn/winter 2013/14

    campaign

    Jonathan Daniel Pryce for WGSN street

    shot, London Collections Men

    WGSN 2013

    http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/01jan/LCM/JDPRYCE_180.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/topmancamp.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/fur8.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/WorkingClassHero5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpg