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8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update
1/5
Blazers: A/W 14/15 men's commercial update
By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 24 October 2013
traditional-feeling premium materials and rich autumnal colour are the most
Grainy tweed
Combining tailoring tradition with clean, contemporary styling, salt-and-pepper tweeds lend simple,
classic jacket shapes such as the two-button blazer an element of premium-feeling texture, and have a
heavyweight quality that works well for the winter season. As seen across the suiting trends for next
season, styling is laid-back, including luxe polo shirts and polo-neck sweaters, or fisherman-style knits
Source: Hunger, autumn/winter 2013/14
WGSN ANALYSIS
"We're exploring a linkbetween the growingpopularity of grainytweeds for blazers andthe commercialsuccess of neppyjersey pieces overrecent seasons, as it
translates that samefocus on tactile,premium-feelingtraditional fabrics intotailoring in a way thatfeels familiar andaccessible"
"Velvet is important, asare eveningwearinfluences in generalthis season, but thelook is becoming
increasingly casualand these tux-inspiredjackets work wellstyled with relaxedknits and jerseybasics"
"Windowpane check isa strong message thatseems set to continue,in keeping with thefocus on classicsartorial looks, butupdates for fashion-ledretailers includebrighter shades usedas pop contrasts"
Sara MaggioniSenior Editor, What's inStore, WGSN
WGSN 2013
http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/00_Overview/009.jpg.rendition.medium.jpg8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update
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such as those layered under jackets at Topman.
Velvet
The traditional dinner jacket is a huge reference for next season, as reflected in the proportion of these
blazer updates dedicated to opulent-feeling materials and colour directions, and velvet sits firmly in this
category as a key development for tuxedo-style jackets. Its sharp retro appeal is further emphasised with
classic eveningwear trims, such as matching black satin for lapels, while shrunken fits - as seen at Acne-ntroduce a modern edge.
Windowpane check
n terms of pattern, the windowpane check has become increasingly important for tailoring - not picked
up in the suits commercial updatethis season, but focused on blazers instead. Relevant across bothsingle- and double-breasted jacket silhouettes, it brings an element of sartorial tradition while also feeling
relatively clean and stripped back, bringing a contemporary edge to one-button jackets such as those at
.
Source: Mixte, autumn/winter 2013/14 Bergdorf Goodman autumn/winter
2013/14 lookbook
Remus Uomo autumn/winter 2013/14
lookbook
Topman autumn/winter 2013/14
campaign
Jonathan Daniel Pryce for WGSN street
shot, Jacket Required, February 2013
Source: Another Man, autumn/winter
2013/14
Acne autumn/winter 2013/14 Smalto autumn/winter 2013/14 lookbook
WGSN 2013
http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/smal2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/acne002.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/02_Velvet/021.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/02feb/Jacket_Required/JcktReqd020713_159.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/topmancamp2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/REMUS2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/Wilkommen7.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/01_GrainyTweed/MrMrs6.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.remusuomo.com/en/http://localhost:7503/content/report/Commercial_Updates/Menswear/AW14/suiting_aw_14_commercial_update.htmlhttp://www.acnestudios.com/http://www.topman.com/8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update
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Cobalt blue
An exciting colour direction that we've been tracking as its influence has spread from the catwalk into the
arger menswear market, bold blues bring something unexpected to tailoring that works best as a new
twist on next season's all-important eveningwear references. Jacquards and plush fabrics are important
n terms of dressed-up styling, but traditional wools look impressive too - particularly the cobalt-blue wool
and mohair mix at Smalto.
Wine reds
A more traditional colour direction associated with autumn eveningwear and one that sits particularly well
with luxurious, tactile fabrics such as velvet and corduroy, rich shades of burgundy and claret reinforce
the importance of tuxedo-inspired decadence on formalwear for next season. The look also works
brilliantly across more versatile daytime tailoring, as illustrated by simple two-button jackets at Lanvin,styled with retro polo-neck knits.
Source: L'Officiel Hommes Paris,
autumn/winter 2013/14
GSN street shot, Milan Fashion Week,
January 2013
Remus Uomo autumn/winter 2013/14
lookbook
Ramsey autumn/winter 2013/14
lookbook
Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013/14
ookbook
Smalto autumn/winter 2013/14 lookbook Suitsupply autumn/winter 2013/14
campaign
Lapo Elkann x Gucci autumn/winter
2013/14
WGSN 2013
http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/lapo7.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/supply1675x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/smal5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/04_CobaltBlue/tomford.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/rsey1275x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/REMUS5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/01jan/Milan_mw/Day_02/064_Milan_menswear_aw_1314_Day_2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/03_WindowpaneCheck/HittMan5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.lanvin.com/#/en/newshttp://www.smalto.com/en8/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update
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Floral jacquards
Taking dressed-up eveningwear looks to the height of flamboyant luxury are these silk-jacquard and
tapestry-style florals, used across both dinner jackets and shrunken-fit blazers. Perfect for younger
retailers and premium brands with a view to the the party season, this strong vintage mood has been
given a new lease of life thanks to the Louis Vuittoncollaboration with artists the Chapman Brothers thisseason, using a darker style of floral.
Shrunken fit
With colour, pattern and material dominating developments for blazers next season, the focus has
been less on silhouettes, as the double-breasted jacket, tuxedo and two-button single-breasted jacket
are naturally carried over from autumn/winter's new suiting directions. One new shape worth calling
out is the shrunken fit, a youthful-feeling and versatile block that's also being adopted by more grown-
up tailoring-led brands such as De Fursac.
Source: King, autumn/winter 2013/14 Suitsupply autumn/winter 2013/14
campaign
Lanvin autumn/winter 2013/14 El Burgus autumn/winter 2013/14
campaign
Source: Numero Homme, autumn/winter
2013/14
Source: Another Man, autumn/winter
2013/14
Source: Another Man, autumn/winter
2013/14
Source: Hercules Universal,
autumn/winter 2013/14
WGSN 2013
http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/SuburbanHeat5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/TheAnarchy2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/031.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/06_Floral/CultSecret5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/burge5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/lan011arge.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/supply15x450.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/05_DeepRed/BenjamBille2.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://www.defursac.fr/en/home.aspxhttp://www.louisvuitton.co.uk/front/#/eng_GB/Collections/Men/Show-Fall-Winter-20138/13/2019 Blazers Aw 14 Commercial Update
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Source: L'Officiel Hommes Germany,
autumn/winter 2013/14
De Fursac autumn/winter 2013/14 Topman autumn/winter 2013/14
campaign
Jonathan Daniel Pryce for WGSN street
shot, London Collections Men
WGSN 2013
http://localhost:7503/content/dam/Central_Library/Street_Shots/Menswear/2013/01jan/LCM/JDPRYCE_180.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/topmancamp.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/fur8.jpg.rendition.medium.jpghttp://localhost:7503/content/dam/Team_Libraries/Menswear/Commercial_Updates/AW14/Blazers/07_Shrunken/WorkingClassHero5.jpg.rendition.medium.jpg