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Yung-Tsun Tina Lee

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCETechnology Administration

National Institute of Standards

and Technology

Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory

Factory Automation Systems Division

Gaithersburg, MD 20899

NIST

Body Dimensions for Apparel

Yung-Tsun Tina Lee

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF CXDMMERCETechnology Administration

National Institute of Standards

and Technology

Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory

Factory Automation Systems Division

Gaithersburg, MD 20899

April 1994

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCERonald H. Brown, Secretary

TECHNOLOGY ADMINISTRATIONMary L Good, Under Secretary for Technolc^

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF STANDARDSAND TECHNOLOGYArati Prabhakar, Director

DISCLAIMER

Certain commercial equipment, instruments, or materials are identified in this report in order to

facilitate understanding. Such identification does not imply recommendation or endorsement by

the National Institute of Standards and Technology, nor does it imply that the materials or

equipment identified are necessarily the best available for the purpose.

Body Dimensionsfor Apparel

Y. Tina Lee

Factory Automation Systems Division

Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory

National Institute of Standards and Technology

Gaithersburg, MD 20899

ABSTRACT

Anthropometric data and apparel sizing is an important component of apparel quality. Apparel can

not be top quality unless it fits the potential wearers satisfactorily. In the United States, current

sizing standards rely on body measurement data that were gathered by the U.S. Department of

Agriculture during the late 1930’ s. Apparel must fit today’s population. Except for the study by

the American Society for Testing and Materials to improve sizing for women over age 55, there

has been no comprehensive anthropometric study of today’s diverse population undertaken in the

United States. Related issues such as definitions of body dimensions, body type classifications,

measurement techniques, target population groups, and database management methods for the

collection of body measurements all are important topics for apparel researchers.

This report represents a compilation of body dimensions that are used in the manufacturing and

fitting of apparel. It is the result of a comparison of five body measurements reports, including

documentations of national and international apparel sizing standards. The information in this

report wiU provide the basis for the development of the information model of made-to-measure

pattern making. It will also contribute to the conducting of future body measurements surveys and

the development of new or improved sizing standards for apparel.

KEY WORDS

anthropometry; apparel; APDES; body dimensions; body measurements; fit; patterns; sizing

Page 2

INTRODUCTION

The apparel industry has used computer systems to automate many of its manufacturing processes.

However, the manufacturing innovations often stand alone as “islands of automation.” Integrating

the separate automated processes could greatly improve the effectiveness of the entire enterprise.

In recent years, the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), under the sponsorship

of the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA), has been developing the apparel product data exchange

standard (APDES) [LEEl]. The goal of the APDES project is to develop a comprehensive

specification for sharing apparel product data among all stages of the product life cycle. We, the

APDES project members at NIST, have determined a set of manufacturing data interfaces that

could be standardized for the effective integration of the information systems required to operate

an apparel manufacturing enterprise [MONO]. We have also developed an information model for

ready-to-wear pattern making, which is one of the manufacturing data interfaces being identified

[LEE2].

We are currently developing an information model of made-to-measure pattern making and have

conducted a literature survey on made-to-measure technology. As a result of the survey, a

bibliography on apparel sizing and related issues has been generated for the quick use of apparel

researchers [LEE3]. We are now working on a task to determine and organize the body dimensions

necessary for manufacturing and fitting garments. The organized body dimensions can then be

modelled and exchanged in an efficient manner with the apparel enterprise processes that need

them.

One of the critical problems that impact the future development of made-to-measure quality

garments is the need for reliable and accurate anthropometric data. Many designers,

manufacturers, retailers, and customers are also concerned that the current apparel sizing standards

do not describe the body configurations of today’s population. The apparel industry needs

consistent and accurate apparel sizing standards that reflect body measurements of today’s

population in order to increase the quality of ready-to-wear garments.

The purpose of this report is to present body dimensions that are needed for the fit and manufacture

of garments and patterns. The body dimensions will provide the basis for the development of the

information model of made-to-measure pattern making. It also provides a suggested list of data

requirements for the collection of body measurements. The next section. Methodology, describes

the process of compiling body dimensions. The Entries ofBody Dimensions Table section lists

types of information included in the Body Dimensions Table. The Table itself is shown in

Appendix B. Appendix A is a compilation of principal body landmarks that are used in the

definitions of Body Dimensions Table. The Summary section contains concluding remarks.

METHODOLOGY

There exists a wealth of anthropometric data collection, such as Anthropometry ofWomen of U.

S. Army [CHUR], Anthropometry of Air Force Women [CLAU], the National Aeronautics and

Space Administration’s Anthropometry for Designers [MCCO], the Department of Agriculture’s

Page 3

Body Measurements for Garment and Pattern Constmction [OBRI], etc. These anthropometric

data were taken from different sources which used different body dimensions, body measurement

methods, body referencing systems on different target population for different applications. For

example, the Anthropometry for Designer was tailored to meet the needs of engineers engaged in

the design of equipment, habitability areas, workspace layouts, life-support hardware, and clothing

for the NASA (National Aeronautics and Space Administration) Space Shuttle/Spacelab program,

and all anthropometric data were collected in the weightless environment. However, the

Anthropometry ofWomen of the U. S. Army was generated during the winter of 1976-1977 to

satisfy the need by the U. S. Army for up-to-date data on the body sizes and strength capabilities

of Army women.

This article is aimed at the study of body measurements for apparel and pattern making only.

Thus, five reports, [NBS], [NBS-m], [ISO], [ASTM], and [MD] (refer to \ht References section),

were selected as references for this study from the bibliography that was generated previously

[LEE3]. The approach of the study for this report is to compile body dimensions that will provide

a complete coverage of those in the above five references. Definitions of all body dimensions in

the references have been examined and compared. The comparison result is then summarized in a

table that lists a set of body dimensions needed in the manufacturing and fitting of apparel. Bodydimensions presented in different references with a common definition are grouped as one body

dimension. A brief summary of each reference is described as follows.

[NBS] is a report on Body Measurementsfor the Sizing ofWomen’s Patterns andApparel. It

is a voluntary product standard developed by the National Bureau of Standards (NBS). The

standard covers standard size classifications, size designations, and body measurements to

aid in the consistency of sizing of women’s apparel. It also covers applications of the sizing

system, definitions and methods of measurement, and recommended methods for identifying

products that are sized in accordance with this standard.

[NBS-m] is a report on Body Measurementsfor the Sizing ofApparelfor Men (Student). It

is another NBS voluntary apparel sizing standard that covers same information as in the

[NBS], but is aimed at young men or students.

[ISO] is a report on Garment Construction and Anthropometric Surveys - Body Dimensions.

It is an international standard developed by the International Organization for

Standardization. The standard defines the location of body dimensions for anthropometric

surveys and for the preparation of garment patterns as well as garment stands. It ilso

specifies a standard procedure for measuring the body.

[ASTM] is a report on Development ofBody Measurement Tablesfor Women 55 and Older

and the Relationship to Ready-to-Wear Garment Size. It provides the first set of specific body

measurements of women 55 years and older. The study was performed by the ASTM(American Society for Testing and Materials) Institute for Standards Research. The report

also identifies key body dimensions that are related to garment fitting problems for womenaged 55 and over.

[MD] is a report on Measurement Specification Document. It provides information of mens’

Page 4

and womens’ measurement specifications for two types of applications: interface by humanuser and interface by computer. The work was performed by the Microdynamics Inc. for

supporting the Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation’s made-to-measure technology

research project. [MD] includes two separate documents: women’s edition and mens’

edition. Sixty-six dimensions are defined in the women’s edition, while fifty-nine dimensions

are in the men’s edition. There are fifty-eight dimensions in common between men’s and

women’s. Thus, the women’s edition is used as the primary reference in this report.

ENTRIES OF BODY DIMENSIONS TABLE

Two appendices. Appendix A and Appendix B, are included in this report. Appendix A is a

glossary of body landmarks used in the definitions of body dimensions. The Standard

Terminology Relating to Body Dimensionsfor Apparel Sizing section m the “1992 Annual BookofASTM Standards” was the main reference for developing tiiis glossary [ASTM-d]. Appendix Bpresents a table containing all dimensions of the human body that are used in making patterns and

garments based on the five reports mentioned above. All measurements are made with the subject

standing upright unless otherwise specified. A total of ninety-one dimensions (items) are included

in the table. Each dimension in the table is composed of five fields: numeric identification,

dimension name, definition, category, and the references which include the dimension. The

following provides a brief description of each field.

“Identification” defines an identification number for the body dimension.

“Name” gives a name for the body dimension. Each name is specified by a string of characters.

“Definition” provides a description of body locations and process for taking body measurement.

Definitions are summarized from the five referenced reports.

“Category” gives a category for the body dimension. Five categories (girth, vertical, length, angle,

and weight) are included in the table. “Girth” is a horizontal and circular measurement of the body.

“Vertical” is a measure of the vertical distance for the required section of the body. “Length” is a

measure of the distance between two or more measurement points. “Angle” is an angle of

inclination measurement. “Weight” is a measure of the heaviness of the subject.

“References” lists a set of references by abbreviation which include the dimension and the location

of the definition (by paragraph number) in each reference.

SUMMARY

This report presents a preliminary set of body dimensions that are necessary in the manufacturing

and fitting of apparel. The information of these body dimensions will be the basis for the

development of the information model of made-to-measure pattern making. Requirements of body

measurements for different groups of people are somewhat varied. (Groups of people may depend

on ages, genders, ethnic origin, etc.) Further study may be necessary to determine body

dimensions requirements for the specific groups. For completeness, additions and modifications

to the preliminary set of body dimensions will be needed. The author expects that the information

in this report will contribute to future body measurements surveys as well as the development of

new or improved sizing standards.

REFERENCES

[ASTM] Institute for Standards Research, “Development of Body Measurement Tables for

Women 55 and Older and the Relationship to Ready-to-Wear Garment Size,” ISR 06, PCN: 33-

00006-18, ASTM Institute for Standards Research, Philadelphia, PA, 1993.

[ASTM-d] ASTM Committee D-13, “1992 Annual Book of ASTM Standards,” Volume

07.02, ASTM, Philadelphia, PA, 1992.

[CHUR] Churchill, E., Churchill, T., McConville, J. T., and White R. M., “Anthropometry

ofWomen of the U.S. Army - 1977 Report No. 2 - The Basic Univariate Statistics,” U.S. ArmyNatick Technical Report (Natick/TR-77/024), U.S. Army Natick Research and Development

Command, Natick, MA, June 1977.

[CLAU] Clauser, C. E., Tucker, P. E., McConville J. T., Churchill, E., Laubach, L. L., and

Reardon J. A., “Anthropometry of Air Force Women,” Aerospace Medical Research Laboratory

Technical Report (AMRL-TR-70-5), Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH, April 1972.

[ISO] International Organization for Standardization, “Garment Constmction and

Anthropometric Surveys - Body Dimensions,” ISO 8559, International Organization for Stan-

dardization, Geneva, Switzerland, 1989.

[LEEl] Lee, Y. T., “Apparel Product Data Exchange Standard,” Proceedings of the Third

Annual Apparel Research Conference: Implementing Advanced Technology, Atlanta, GA,February 1992.

[LEE2] Lee, Y. T., and Moncarz, H.T., “A Prototype Application Protocol for Ready-to-

Wear Pattern Making,” NISTIR 5115, National Institute of Standards and Technology,

Gaithersburg, MD, January 1993.

[LEE3] Lee, Y. T., “A Bibliography on Apparel Sizing and Related Issues,” NISTIR 5365,

National Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, February 1994.

[MCCO] McConville, J. T., “Anthropometric Source Book Volume I: Anthropometry for

Designers,” NASA Reference Publication 1024, National Aeronautics and Space Administration,

Scientific and Technical Information Office, 1978.

Page 6

[MD] Microdynamics PAS Committee, “Measurement Specification Document,

Women’s Edition and Mens’ Edition,” Microdynamics Inc., Dallas, TX, 1992.

[MONC] Moncarz, H. T., and Lee, Y. T., “Report on Scoping the Apparel Manufacturing

Enterprise,” Vol. 5, No. 3/4, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, MCBUniversity Press Limited, Bradford, UK, 1993.

[NBS] National Bureau of Standards, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Women’sPatterns and Apparel,” NBS Voluntary Product Standard PS 42-70, United States Department of

Commerce/National Bureau of Standards, Gaithersburg, MD, 1971.

[NBS-m] National Bureau of Standards, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Apparel for

Men (Student),” NBS Voluntary Product Standard PS 45-71, United States Department of Com-merce/National Bureau of Standards, Gaithersburg, MD, 1972.

[OBRI] Department of Agriculture, “Women’s Measurements for Garment and Pattern

Constmction,” Miscellaneous Publication No. 454, Government Printing Office, Washington

D.C., 1941.

APPENDIX

A:

Glossary

of

Principal

Body

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Body

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Definition

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APPENDIX

B:

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ID

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References

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The

vertical

distance

measured

from

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midpoint

vertical

NBS

5.4.e

of

the

crotch

to

soles

of

feet

ISO

2.2.4

ASTM

B.31

Page 16

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36.

Crotch-height

The

vertical

distance

measured

from

the

midway

vertical

NBS

5.4.f

point

of

the

crotch

to

the

soles

of

feet.

ASTM

B.32

NBS-m

6.2.4

Page 17

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Waist-to-highHip

The

vertical

distance

measured

on

the

right

vertical

ASTM

B.28

side

of

the

body

from

the

waist

level

to

the

high

hip

level.

Page 18

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48.

NeckShoulder-to-bust

The

length

measured

from

the

intersection

of

length

NBS

5.5.d

shoulder

and

neck

to

the

bust

point.

ISO

2.2.15

ASTM

B.37

Page 19

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55a

Bust-width

The

horizontal

distance

measured

between

the

length

NBS

5.5.C

bust

points

(nipples)a

ISO

2ala9

ASTM

Ba36

MD

2.8

Page 21

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FrontBust-arc

The

length

measured

the

front

portion

of

the

length

NBS

5.3.a

bust

girth.

ASTM

B.18

Page 22

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Cervical-to-wrist

The

distance

measured

from

the

7th

cervical

length

ISO

2.2.23

vertebra,

along

the

outside

of

the

arm,

over

NBS-m

6.4,9

the

elbovi^,

to

the

far

end

of

the

prominent

wrist

bone,

with

subject’s

arm

bent

at

right

angle

in

a

horizontal

position.

Page 23

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77.

FrontCrotch-depth

The

depth

distance

measured

at

the

midway

point

length

ASTM

B.52

of

the

crotch

using

an

L-square

with

right

angle

against

the

abdomen

and

up

against

the

crotch.

Page 25

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83.

FrontShoulder-width

The

distance

between

the

left

and

right

shoulder

length

MD

2.23

points

measured

along

the

front

of

the

shoulder

with

the

subject’s

arms

hanging

naturally.

Page 26

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