Breaking in a new holster.

First let us explore why a brand new holster will often need breaking in. Most of us holster makers use Ring’s Blue Guns or Aluminum gun replicas. These replicas are really quite accurate but I have noticed that Blue Guns often run a couple of thousandths smaller then the real gun in some cases. I know this sounds analwhen considering you are working with leather but a slick draw is adjusted in 3 to 5 thousandths of clearancein the holster. Another reason, especially for Kydex is Kydex will contract when cooled from the molding process and leather will shrink from excess moisture leaving it after the dyeing and finishing process.

We as holster makers are aware of this and do things to minimize the effects of this but variations in the holster purchaser’s gun can even affect the fit a little. We as holster makers will prefer a snug fit that can be loosened by the end user over too loose a fit that cannot be easily fixed without re-blocking (re-molding) the holster.

Another reason for having to breakin a new holster is that I will have made a holster that I did not have a gun model to mold it with on a custom order basis. I will only do this for a loosely molded holster design. This design is typically shoulder holster or a wrap belt holster. I will shape the holster as close as I can to the gun but final fitting will be up to the customer. The below procedures will work for this as well.

Now that we understand why a holster may need breaking in let’s examine how we can accomplish this. There are often many ways of getting something done in life and this is no exception. I have tried countless ways of breaking in and slicking up a holster only to keep coming back to the same simple approach.

Obviously the best way is to simply put the gun in the holster and wear it day in and day out for a week or two drawing it every hour several times. Sounds like a PITA (Pain In The Ass) well it is and especially if the holster needs to go into duty immediately.

http://archangelleather.com/blog/http://archangelleather.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/DSCF21421.jpg

Another point that I will cover more in detail is the way you draw from a holster is often incorrect and it is mistaken for a poorly fitting holster. A level one retention holster is typically not tolerant to twist when drawing from it. So let’s make certain you even need to fit the holster in the first place. When drawing from any holster it is absolutely necessary to pull without twisting the gun. I don’t care if you have a $300 dollar Alessi, Milt Sparks holster or one of my $100 holsters it will not draw correctly if you twist the handgun in the holster while drawing from it. Often when practicing drawing from a holster especially a conceal carry holster that is behind your back it will require you to twist your arm or wrist to reach back and draw. Often this twist is translated to the gun before it has cleared the holster. If this is the case it will bind in the draw. What you need to do is slowly and consciously get a purchase on your firearm and draw it slowly straight up without canting it forward or backward or twisting it in the holster. The key is to keep it as inline as possible until the muzzle has cleared the holster or at least the retension is broken. I am going to assume you are not acandidate for the Darwin Awards and will do this in a safe manner. This is something that you need to practice daily until you have developed the muscle memory to repeat without thinking about. If when drawing in this practiced manner you still need to loosen up your holster the following will help.

Now let’s get a new holster fitted up over night or even sometimes in an hour or two. Lets say you buy one ofmy all leather holsters. My holsters will come in a 12×12 3mil bag. This is a 3 thousandths inch thick plastic bag that most handguns will fit into like shown in the images below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darwin_Awardshttp://archangelleather.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/DSCF2206.jpghttp://archangelleather.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/DSCF2207.jpg

By placing the gun in the bag and stuffing it into the new holster it will stretch the leather to loosen the fit. Make certain to COMPLETEY seat the gun in the holster with the bag on it. This means stuff it in the holster tight all the way in. Often this will only need to be done for a couple of hours if worn on the belt with the bag on the gun. Sitting with the holster helps in fitting the belt attachments too so don’t hesitate to couch potato out and watch a movie or something while wearing the holster like this. If after a few hours the holsterstill seems too tight then let it sit over night in the bag and in the holster.

NOTE: For shoulder holsters it is advised even double bag the gun and get a looser fit. If you only haveone bag then wrap the gun in Saran Wrap before putting it in the bag to increase the thickness.

The above technique can be aided even further if you have a real stubborn holster by LIGHTLY misting the inside of the holster with a spray bottle of water before inserting the gun in the bag. If you don't have a spray bottle you can wet a rag or wash cloth and wring it out completely so it is only damp and push it into the holster for about ten to twenty minutes before placing the bagged gun in the holster. This should be avoided unless it is absolutely necessary as moisture can affect the holster finish and appearance but if it does it will dry up eventually and a little buffing will fix it up. So keep it lightly misted if you need to go this far with it.

If after this is done and you still feel the holster is too tight then send or bring it back and I will fit it or replace it as needed.