Bring Farm Edges Back to Life! - Practical Permaculture · 2011-03-30 · and beneficial insects back to your farm. Using native perennial grasses, flowers, shrubs, and trees, you

Landowner Conservation Handbook

Yolo County Resource Conservation District221 West Court Street, Suite 1

Woodland, CA 95695

tel: 530.662.2037 x3fax: 530.662.4876www.yolorcd.ca.gov

Bring FarmEdges Back

to Life!

Bring FarmEdges Back

to Life!

Bring Farm Edges Back to Life!Designed and edited by Paul Robins, Rebecca Bresnick Holmes, and Katherine Laddish

5th Edition, July 2001Copyright Yolo County Resource Conservation District

For additional copies:

Send a check for $15 per book, plus shipping and handling ($3 for 1 book, $5 for 2-6books, $10 for 6-10 books, and $15 for more than 10 books), payable to “Yolo CountyRCD” and a note requesting a copy (or copies) of “Bring Farm Edges Back to Life!” to:

Yolo County RCD - Book Orders221 West Court Street, Suite #1

Woodland, CA 95695

You may also send your requst by e-mail to [email protected] telephone us at 530.662.2037, extension 3.

Please also visit our website at: www.yolorcd.ca.gov. This site reflects a cooperative effortwith our partner agency, the USDA: Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS).

Bring Farm Edges Back to Life!Table of Contents

Introduction 1

Making Wildlife and Clean Farming Compatible 3John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms

Conservation Practices

Direct Seeding of California Native Grasses in the 5Sacramento Valley and Foothills

John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms

Establishing Hedgerows for Pest Control and Wildlife 11Mary Kimball & Celia Lamb, Yolo County RCD

Roadside Establishment of Native Perennial Grasses 19Jeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD

Tailwater Ponds for Water Quality, Habitat and 25Farmland Benefits

John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms &Jeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD

Hill Ponds for Landowner and Wildlife Benefits 33Jeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD

Riparian Enhancement on Sloughs 37Paul Robins, Yolo County RCD

Selected Irrigation Canal Vegetation for Seasonal Summer Systems 45John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms

Levee Revegetation with Native Grasses 49John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms &Rick Rominger, Rominger Brothers Farming

Wildlife & Insects

Attracting Barn Owls to Farms 53Chuck Ingels, UC Cooperative Extension, Sacramento, CA

Potential Bird Box Nesting Species in the Sacramento Valley 57

Beneficial Insects and Their Association with Trees, Shrubs, 59Cover Crops, and Weeds

from Farming with Insectary Plants, Robert L. Bugg, SustainableAgriculture Research and Education Program

Use of Bats to Enhance Insect Pest Control in the Central Valley 63Rachael F. Long, Farm Advisor, Pest Management, UCCE Yolo County& Claudia Funari, Research Assistant, UCCE Yolo County

Who Might I Find in My Bat House? 67from Bat House Builders Handbook, Merlin Tuttle & Donna L. Hensley

Planting Techniques & Weed Control

Using Transplants to Establish Native Grasses, Sedges, 69and Rushes (Pug Planting)


Propagation of Tress & Shrubs by Stem Cutting 71Tom Griggs, Restoration Ecologist, The Nature Conservancy

How to Grow California Oaks 73Douglas D. McCreary, Natural Resource Specialist,UC Cooperative Extension

Effective Herbicides for Conservation Projects 77Bryan Young, Sacramento County Bufferlands Program

Common Herbicides and Their Effectiveness on Common Weeds 81

Yolo County RCD Weed Hit List 83

Project Support

Cost-Share Programs for Resource Conservation and 85Wildlife Habitat Development

Paul Robins, Yolo County RCD

Index of Assistance Opportunities for Conservation Projects 88Jeanne Wirka & Judy Boshoven, Audubon, CA

Cost-Sharing Options for Conservation Plans (Three Farms) 95Paul Robins, Yolo County RCD

Vendors and Contractors for Conservation Work 99

Your CommentsWe welcome feedback from our readers. Please feel free to send us your comments. You can

simply jot them down on this page, remove it from the book, and send it to us at:

Yolo County RCD - Farm Edges Comments221 West Court Street, Suite #1

Woodland, CA 95695

or send your comments by e-mail to [email protected].

Thank you!

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Bring Farm Edges Back to Life! page 1

cost time and money. This book contains sections thatdetail the typical costs of these practices and ways toget private and public cost-share support to implementthem. If you have any questions about the informationincluded, please feel free to call us. We’re happy toprovide planning assistance to help you in your effortsto bring your farm edges back to life!

About the Yolo County ResourceConservation District

Our name sounds official, but our activities aren’t.We don’t regulate or mandate. Bridging agriculturalissues with science, education, and government, theRCD is an information network between landownerresource problems and the best solutions.

The Yolo RCD recognizes farmers and ranchersas key players in all real-world solutions. Because ourdirectors are local producers who know farming,business, and resources, we work to assure communitycontext and relevance, acting as a filter and networkfor ideas, training, outreach, and partnerships betweenland and resource users, specialists, regulators, andfunders.

The RCD is committed to local control, believingthe more we learn about our resources, the more wecontrol our own backyard. The more we work withour neighbors, the less we face outside regulatorysolutions that don’t work. To this end, we are workingto integrate resource management solutions that will:

• Reduce losses of habitat and diversity, both inwildlife and plant species.

• Bring together parties with common goals andinterests.

• Create integrated management models toencourage best “multiple” resource use.

• Prevent pollution of waterways and groundwaterfrom pesticide run-off, sediment, and nutrient buildup.

Every farmer has them: odd corners, strips of field,or ditch banks that are too awkward to farmeconomically. But you can’t just let them sit or theybecome noxious weed patches that compromise youroperation. They typically have to be mowed, scraped,sprayed and/or disked several times every year. That’scostly maintenance for a weed patch.

The Yolo County Resource Conservation District(RCD) recommends an alternative protocol for thesespaces that not only suppresses weeds with less annualmaintenance, but stabilizes the soil and brings wildlifeand beneficial insects back to your farm. Using nativeperennial grasses, flowers, shrubs, and trees, you canturn your farm edge liabilities into assets. In this bookletyou will find proven techniques for establishinghedgerows, tailwater and wildlife ponds, and permanentnon-weedy vegetation on roadsides, canal banks, fieldedges and creeks.

Over the years, local farmers and landowners haveexperimented with different conservation practices ontheir farms that would enable them to meet the multipleobjectives of conserving soil and water and improvingwildlife habitat while maintaining intensive agriculturalproduction. The practices detailed in this booklet areproducts of the trials and successes of their efforts tointegrate on-farm resource management. All of thesepractices are possible and easy to implement with basicfarming or landscaping equipment. Of course, they do

Introduction

Western Yolo County

page 2 Bring Farm Edges Back to Life!


Farmers, land managers, and agricultural advisorshave begun to realize the long-term impacts of thetraditional approach of “clean farming.” The practiceof keeping all land that isn’t planted to a crop eitherscraped or sprayed clean has resulted in cumulativesoil losses and sediment buildup in unwanted areas. Inmost cases, attempts to keep ground “clean and bare”are unsuccessful, and they instead turn into reservoirsof unwanted weeds and thus seeds that then spreadinto the cropland. The results include a great monetarycost to the farmer, a cost to the land in the proliferationof weeds and other problems, and an overall loss ofvaluable habitat.

We all hear increasing complaints from manyquarters about the negative impact of modernagricultural practices on the environment, especiallyon surface and ground water quality. Are therefarm-friendly solutions to these challenges that donot threaten productivity and that help reduceerosion, improve water quality, and save labor orchemical costs in the long run? Have we forgottenthat the goal of “clean” farming means weed-free,not vegetation-free?

Current clean farming practices in most of YoloCounty’s intensively farmed areas are dramaticallyreducing or eliminating wildlife habitat within theagricultural systems. The impulse to maintain borders,berms, and roadsides without vegetation, as well asuse all available farmland for production, results in abrown, barren, landscape that lasts from plowdown inthe fall until spring planting. One impact of successfulfarming is the unfortunate, lifeless state of vast acresonce so important to the myriad of species that inhabitedthe Sacramento Valley. More and more, “productivity”is judged by measuring only intensely cultivatedmonocultures.

In our view there is no inevitable, long-termconflict between good farming and biodiversity. Quail,raptors, and pest-eating bats are less apparent in manysites. How often does one see a snake or toad on theroad anymore? Threats to biodiversity come not somuch from increased traffic, but from a lack of naturalhabitat. When farmers believe that only one version

of “clean farming” is economically viable, one result isa lack of habitat.

The number one reason for bare dirt clean farmingis to control the invasion of noxious weeds. This iscertainly a valid concern since any area of bare anddisturbed soil will be rapidly colonized by a host ofnasty and unsightly vegetation. Star thistle, puncturevine, Johnson grass, bindweed, and mustard are but afew of the undesirables that we continually spray, disk,and scrape to eliminate. The number two reason forbare dirt clean farming is that it has become theaccepted, automatic practice. Border vegetationimplies sloppy farming—what will the landlords,neighbors or bankers think?

What can be done to reverse the current scenariowithout impacting the agricultural livelihood of thevalley? Certainly most farmers appreciate wildlife andevidence suggests that a biodiverse border of plantspecies provides habitat for many beneficial insectsand predators (such as raptors, bats and reptiles).Instead of a high maintenance, bare dirt system, wepropose a balanced, self-sustaining perennial grasslandthat outcompetes any weedy invasion. Corridors ofmixed native perennial grasses along roadsides, berms,ditch banks, canals, field borders, and any non-croppedarea, provide excellent year-round habitat for wildlifewithout a negative impact on overall farming practices.Incorporating patches of native shrubs and/or treesinto these corridors greatly increases the biodiversityand habitat value.

Making Wildlife Habitat and Clean Farming CompatibleJohn Anderson, Hedgerow Farms

Hedgerow Farms, Yolo County


These concepts are widely practiced in Midwesternfarming areas but have not yet been accepted by theCalifornia Valley farmers. Can it be done? HedgerowFarms, located between Winters and Madison, has beenincorporating and testing habitat corridor systems since 1978.Without question, native grasslands provide weed anderosion control, reduce maintenance, and greatlyenhance the biodiversity and aesthetics of the farm.Over 100 species of birds use the farm throughout theyear and dozens of rooster pheasants and dove areharvested during the hunting season. We now have awell-established quail population and have documenteda myriad of songbird and beneficial insect species.

Neighbors Bruce and Charlie Rominger, who farmground adjacent to the corridors, have not seen anysignificant negative impact on their crop production.In fact, the most difficult aspect of farming withcorridors is training tractor drivers to recognize theborders and avoid disking over newly-establishedvegetation. We have also found that overall herbicideapplication decreases. The steps toward shifting awayfrom a clean-farming approach are easy, especiallyfor a farmer. It is simply a matter of farming the corridorto get it established.

A wide variety of native and non-native perennialgrass seed is now available. Establishing a stand issimilar to growing wheat or barley. Because perennialgrasses grow much slower, weed management in thefirst year is very important. Timing of planting, selectiveherbicide application, and mowing are all importanttools for success. The slow-growing establishmentperiod explains why these grasses are not invasiveweeds, and perhaps why they disappeared from mucho alifornia’s agriculturally-impacted areas.

In short, mixed plant field corridors are certainly areasonable, workable compromise that could becomenormal, cost-effective practices for good farmlandstewardship. The visual image of clean farming forthe future should be borders of perennial grasslands,not lifeless borders of bare dirt. Weed-free does notmean vegetation-free. With the use of mixed plant fieldcorridors, environmental quality and quality of lifewould be significantly enhanced, especially for thoseof us that live and work in the agricultural landscape.

MAKING WILDLIFE HABITAT AND CLEAN FARMING COMPATIBLE


A mature stand of California native grassprovides a robust, self-sustaining vegetation systemwith multiple benefits to the environment and landmanagement. Unfortunately, early attempts toestablish native grasses did not succeed, often dueto inappropriate species selection and inadequateweed control before and after planting. Becausetargeted planting areas frequently contain highdensity weed seed banks, weed control is the majorchallenge during the first few years.

IntroductionWhat follows is a summary of techniques to

establish native grasses by direct seeding in theSacramento Valley and foothills north of Winters inYolo County. Average yearly rainfall is about 17 inchesand soil types vary from Class 1 silty clay loam toClass 4 gravely clay loam with underlying hard-pan.All areas have undergone continuous or intermittenttillage over the past 20 years. These techniques followbasic agronomic principles used to establish otherperennial plantings, such as permanent pasture and sod.While all specified techniques have been field-testedin various areas, each site is different. Thus, thesetechniques are intended as guidelines rather than strictrecommendations for all situations.

SELECTION OF SPECIES

Careful selection of appropriate species (perhapseven species ecotypes) for each site and soil quality isof primary importance. Since over 30 species of nativegrasses are now available from commercial growers,soil type, rainfall, exposure, heat, cold, and floodingtolerance are environmental and climatic factors thatdetermine the best choice of grasses. Soil quality isthe prime variable. While species original to the sitewould be the best choice, in many areas the completeloss of natives makes this a matter of guesswork.Studying remnant stands and documenting theoutcome of recent plantings are beginning toprovide needed information.

WEED PROBLEMS

Weed competition is the major reason for failure toestablish native grasses from seed. Many native grassseedlings have low vigor and are slow to germinateand grow, especially for the long-lived, highly-desirableNassella, Melica, Poa, and Festuca species. Bycontrast, weedy annuals have short germination periods,high seedling vigor and rapid growth following the firstgerminating rains in the fall. Additionally, weed seeddensity is usually very high, with some estimates ashigh as 10,000 plants per square meter. Thus, weedyannuals can overwhelm the hardiest of the natives evenwhen densely seeded. Unfortunately, in large areas,high rate seeding can be prohibitively expensive.

To be successful, slow-growing native seedlingsneed time, sunlight, moisture, and nutrients to mature.The most rapidly growing species, Elymus, Hordeum,and Bromus, require at least two years to mature inideal conditions. The Nassellas and Melics mayrequire three to four years. While native grasses mayrequire vigilance, they also require no more thanstandard agricultural methods and tools for reachingplanting, establishment, and maintenance goals.

HERBICIDES, TILLAGE AND MOWING

Herbicides are often part of a successfulmanagement strategy. Herbicides provide cost-effective solutions to serious weed problems that oftenplague a grass stand. Appropriate chemicals, especiallywhen integrated with other advanced technologies,provide important tools in the restoration of variousaltered ecosystems now infested with exotics.

If herbicides are considered undesirable, well-timedcultivations before a planting can greatly reduce theweed seedbank, especially if rain or irrigation hascaused a good germination. After planting, a grass standcan be mowed when annual grass or broadleaf weedsare flowering but before seeds are mature. This caneliminate this new set of seeds from the weed seedbankand give the perennials a greater competitive advantage.

Direct Seeding of California Native Grasses in theSacramento Valley and Foothills



PRECAUTIONS

Always observe proper and safe use of herbicides,including safety to humans and to the environment.Read herbicide labels carefully, following all restrictionsaccording to county, state, and federal regulations.Note that permits are required for all large scalepesticide use. Information on the safe handling anduse of pesticides is readily available from each countyagricultural commissioner’s office and agriculturalextension agents. Though initially daunting, usingherbicides correctly can be learned by a non-expert.If you don’t want to do the job yourself, licensedPest Control Advisors (PCA) and Pesticide ControlOperators (PCO) can be contracted privately orthrough local agricultural chemical distributors.Many landscape contractors also perform thenecessary services.

Seedbed Preparation and Weed ReductionStrategies

Weed identification on the site is critical in planningmanagement strategies.

COMMON WEEDS

Annual grasses such as Wild oat (Avena fatua),Ripgut brome (Bromus rigidus) and Annual ryegrass(Lolium multiflorum) are some of the most widespreadand troublesome. They germinate early and grow veryrapidly. High densities of other annual grasses, suchas Soft chess (Bromus mollis) and annual or Rattailfescue (Vulpia myuros) can be equally aggressive andsuppressive. When grasses predominate the weedflora, it is very important to adhere to the pre-plantstrategies outlined. Broadleaf weeds can be managedwith a wide variety of post-emergent selectiveherbicides that do not affect the grasses. Yellowstarthistle (Centaurea solstitialis), Prickly lettuce(Lactuca serriola), mustards (Brassica spp.),knotweed (Polygonum aviculare, P. erectum), andmany more can be effectively managed withbroadleaf herbicides.

GOALS

Initial seedbed preparation goals are simple:decrease the weed seed bank and till the soil forseeding. Starting one year prior to seeding is ideal. Acontrolled burn in spring will kill developing weeds andeliminate a new generation of weeds seeds and litter.By the following March or April, spring disking or tilling

DIRECT SEEDING OF CALIFORNIA NATIVE GRASSES IN THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY AND FOOTHILLS

will reduce the number of winter-growing weeds thatset seed. The area should be left fallow during summerand tilled or sprayed with herbicide, as necessary, toeliminate late-germinating weeds. One advantage ofthis spring-summer fallow technique is that deep soilmoisture is conserved for the following fall planting.Finally, seedbed preparation may require smoothingwith a land plane or scraper and roller if soil clods arelarge. Rolling with a ring roller provides compactionthat will maintain good soil moisture following the firstfall or winter rains.

INITIAL WEED CONTROL

Although the seedbed is now physically ready tobe seeded, it may be necessary to control a huge,shallow reservoir of weed seeds near the soil surface.After germinating rains in October or November,weeds can be eliminated with glyphosphate, veryshallow harrowing, or flaming. You want to reduceimmediate weed competition without bringing weedseeds to the surface. Herbicide use or flaming is mosteffective. If germinating rains are late, it may benecessary to plant before weeds have emerged, (i.e.7-10 days after germinating rains). In this case, seedcan be planted and weed seedlings sprayed withglyphosphate prior to native seedling emergence.Germination of native grasses takes at least two weeksin late October or early November and up to four weeksif planted later. Monitoring germination progress bydigging up planted seeds and watching for germinationis critical; as soon as a radical begins to emerge fromthe native seed, it is time to spray.

Soil tillage is not always necessary, especially whereareas have been previously dry farmed such as CRPground in low elevation foothills. A late summer or earlyfall hot, controlled burn will eliminate deep thatch anda large number of the surface weed seeds. Followingthe first rains, seed may be drilled directly into theground (using a no-till drill) and glyphosate will kill thefirst flush of weeds either at the time of planting orjust prior to native seedling emergence. A variationwould be to burn after the first germinating rains at atime when the burn will kill the first germinating weeds.Follow by drilling in the native seed. This techniquewould eliminate the first fall herbicide. While we havebeen successful with some no-till plantings, others havebeen failures and this appears to be related to soil type,especially shallow hard-pan clays.


PLANTING OPTIONS

The “best” time to plant seed is not welldocumented. The standard is to seed prior to mid-November to maximize first year growth beforesummer dormancy.

EXPERIENCES

Unfortunately, the first germinating rains may notoccur until December. In 1991 and 1992, severalDecember and early January seedings were successful,especially on good soils, but late plantings are notwithout risks. Wet, cold soil conditions can rot seedand a hard freeze can cause high mortality in youngseedlings. During the wet winter of 1992-1993,monoculture seed production plantings of Nassellacernua and Nassella lepida failed after being seededin late November into heavy, Class 2 soil. On the samesite and seeded at the same time, Nassella pulchra,Melica califomica, Elymus glaucus, and Hordeumbrachyantherum established excellent stands. Poasecunda and Festuca idahoensis had intermediatesuccess, presumably due to dampoff.

We have performed several large seedings in midto late January with mixed success. One advantage oflater seeding is better control of weeds. A later plantingdate allows more surface weeds to germinate prior toseeding. By waiting, however, wet conditions mayprevent access to the site. Another risk of late seedingis the potential cessation of rains before the grass hasenough growth to establish. If an area can be irrigatedin the spring or if the soil will hold deep moisture wellinto June, a late January or early February seedingcan be very successful. An additional benefit is thatnewly-germinated seedlings will not be subject to aslow growth phase in December when significantmortality may occur.

SEEDING TECHNIQUES

Seeding techniques depend on terrain, size of thearea, and availability of seeding equipment. The twobasic techniques we use are broadcast seeding andprecision drilling. Hydroseeding and spreading nativegrass straw are other techniques that can be effective,especially in small areas.

EQUIPMENT

The long awns of many native grass seeds(Nassella, Hordeum, Elymus, Bromus, Aristida)frequently cause bridging in standard seeding


equipment. Many standard range drills, as well asbroadcast seeders, are not satisfactory withoutadditional mechanical agitation. No-till range drillsdesigned to handle fluffy, “chaffy” seeds are nowavailable and should be used for large acreage seeding(Truax, Inc., Great Plains Manufacturing, Inc.). TheTruax drill, designed for prairie restoration in themid-western states, is ideally suited for the hard-to-handle California natives. The other advantageof using drills is that much less seed is required.This is significant because many Californianatives are still very expensive.

SEEDING TECHNIQUES

Broadcast seeding followed by shallow harrowingand cultipacking is very effective, especially on wellprepared soil. Recently, we have been using a flexibletine harrow (Fuerst) and have found it extremelyversatile. A small one can be pulled by a standard ATVand small areas such as steep roadsides and ditch banksmay be easily and rapidly harrowed to cover thebroadcast seed. In small or inaccessible areas, fourpronged cultivator rakes can be used to agitate the soiland cover the seed.

SEED MIXTURES AND RATES

Although more information is needed to setstandards for seed mixtures and seeding rates, anupdated list of mixes and rates is included at the endof this article.

Strategies for Seeding MixturesMany seed mixtures, used where rapid erosion

control is important, have included high percentagesof annual grasses and total seeding rates of 30-40pounds per acre. The slow-growing perennials have aslim chance of survival due to the competition fromthe annuals. Similarly, in a native perennial mixture,the more rapidly growing species have the potential tooutcompete the slower growing species if theproportions greatly favor the former. This is frequentlythe case since the slow growers tend to be moreexpensive. Our current strategy is to give each speciesin a mix an equal chance to get established. By usinglive seeds per pound for each species, coupled withour limited knowledge of seedling survival for eachspecies, we are now formulating mixtures based on alive seeds per square foot basis.


INFLUENCE OF HABITAT

Obviously, the choice of species depends on thehabitat being mirrored or restored and other plantinggoals. For example, short species may be moredesirable on a roadside or canal bank, whereas tallerspecies would be more appropriate for habitat areas.Again, soil type and condition are very importantconsiderations. Most species thrive on good loamy soiland the lesser quality soils will tend to eliminate speciesnot adapted to them. In many situations we use “bestguess” mixtures, anticipating that the most appropriatespecies will thrive and become self-perpetuating.

Post-Planting ManagementYEAR 1

By February or early March, while grass seedlingsshould be up and growing, so will a new flush of weeds.Many of these weeds may be insignificant or perhapseven desirable forbs, but others could pose threats toestablishment. Access to sunlight is the most criticalfactor for the small grass seedlings. Star thistle, Bullthistle (Cirsium vulgare), and mustard will growquickly and, if abundant, can over-top and shade outthe slow growing perennials. Knotweed is a verycommon low-growing annual that starts germinatingin late February. If not controlled, it may smotherperennial seedlings by June. Late-germinating grassessuch as Annual ryegrass, Wild oats, Canary grass(Phalaris minor) and others can do the same. Weedmanagement options include use of selective herbicides,wick herbicides, and mowing. In range situationsmanaged grazing is also an option.

Selective herbicide spraying for broadleaf weedsis most effective when the weeds are small, generallyby February to mid March. Perennial grasses must bepast the 3-leaf stage before application. Wickapplication of glyphosphate consists of wiping aconcentrated solution on the tops of tall weeds whileleaving shorter perennials untouched. The wick is anabsorbent material or rope that is in contact with areservoir of herbicide solution. This technique worksespecially well with weedy grasses, but can also beused for broadleaf weeds in small areas. Hand-heldwick applicators are available through many gardensuppliers. Tractor-mounted wick applicators for largeareas are available from distributors of agriculturalspray equipment.

Depending on weed type, density and location,mowing alone, or mowing combined with herbicides,offers excellent control of late-season weeds. Beaware that some species, such as Annual ryegrass,Yellow starthistle, and Foxtail barley can produce seedheads low to the ground following mowing. Mowingalone has been successful in cooler coastal areasbut we have experienced mixed results in the CentralValley, and little success when weeds are dense.Mowing in late February through April reduces theheight of weeds, giving young perennials access tolight. Mowing should not be lower than 3-4 inches. Ifmowing alone is used, a second mowing is usuallyneeded in May or early June.

Haying (cutting and baling) the site before weedseeds shatter removes weed seed that wouldcontribute to the soil seed bank. Haying also removesthe cut biomass that would shade growing perennials.This is an excellent option that also produces a usablehay crop. Grazing the establishing grassland in springof the first year can help reduce fast-growingcompetitive annual grasses. It both mows andremoves potential thatch and when animals aremanaged properly, results can be very successful.

YEAR 2Second-year management frequently continues

the battle against annual weeds. Weed seeds remainin the soil and many are viable for many years.Yearling native grasses do not yet have the competitivebiomass to inhibit weed growth and shading the youngperennials can eliminate them. Management practicesinclude pre-emergent herbicides, post emergentherbicides, mowing, grazing, and fire. Pre-emergentherbicides prevent seed germination and seedlingestablishment. Applied in fall to a first-year stand ofnative grasses, pre-emergents aid weed control,especially when Annual ryegrass, Ripgut brome,Foxtail barley, and Wild oats have been present inhigh density for a number of years. There are manypre-emergents available and we are in the processof testing their efficacy for native grasses. First-yearnative grasses, unlike second-and third-year stands,are easily injured and it is important to use the propermaterial and rates. An article by Tom Lanini et. al. inthe September 1996 edition of California Agriculturedetails a study of preemergence herbicides andperennial grasses.



Selective herbicide application, mowing, and grazingduring the second year are similar to the first. Trainedpersons with four gallon backpack sprayers may coverlarge areas, eliminating hot spots of weeds while notaffecting surrounding flora. Warm season perennialweeds, such as Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense)and Bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) arecontrollable by spot spraying.

Fire is a post-establishment management tool whoseexceptional value is verified by the midwestern prairierestorationists who rely on burning. Because most lowelevation grasslands evolved with fire, establishedperennial grasses rebound after fire while weed seedsare destroyed. In California bioregions, frequency andtiming are the important factors; their benefit ordetriment on native grasses varies from species tospecies. Burn research by The Nature Conservancyin the Jepson Prairie and the Santa Rosa Plateau hasshown the best overall weed suppression and lowestmortality rate of native perennial grasses with latespring burns not applied more than once every two tothree years. Burning can also affect native annual forbspositively or negatively, so a burn regime must be

tailored to the plant species you are managing. TheNature Conservancy is an excellent resource in thisregard and can be contacted at The NatureConservancy, California Field Office, 201 MissionStreet, 4th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94105, tel:415.777.0487.

Another strategy is late spring burns in these naturalareas. This appears to significantly reduce annual

competition by killing unshattered seeds. Burnguidelines will soon be coming from these sources.

YEAR 3 AND BEYOND

A frequently-asked question is how long newlyestablished, weedy sites require intensive managementbefore they become self sustaining. Findings are notyet conclusive, but a reasonable estimate would be 3-6 years. Periodic management will always be required.Certainly, intensive herbicide use will be unnecessaryover time, but grazing, mowing, and burning will be animportant part of long term management in most areas.Grazing and burning will continue to be the most costeffective on the larger areas. Mowing farm corridors,sloped ditches, and roadsides is easy in agriculturalenvironment and certainly more cost effective thandisking and herbicides.

Concluding RemarksSince 1989 we have been successfully planting

native grasses on roadsides, canal banks, farmlandhedgerows, riparian restoration sites, wetland habitatareas, and upland meadows. The total area to date isapproaching 500 acres in our area of Yolo County.

Having begun with only a few grass species, wenow work with over 20. Our gauge of success is aweed-free and biodiverse grassland that is self-perpetuating and sustainable. Only now are weappreciating that it is working. We are stillexperimenting, learning from mistakes, and establishingwhat works best. We are certain that there will becontinuing modifications to practices andapproaches as more and more farm sites becomehomes for native vegetation.


Native grasses stabilizing an irrigation canal bank

Prescribed burn in grassland


Native Grass Seed MixesExamples only. Mix should be customized per site. Seeding rates are for drill seeding into well-prepared soil.Rates should be increased for broadcast seeding.

VALLEY DRYLAND MEADOWS ON GOOD SOIL (ALSO HEDGEROWS, EQUIPMENT YARDS, BORDERS, ODD CORNERS)Species Common Name Ht GF Approx Live Rate Approx

Seed/lb. lbs/acre Seeds/sq. ft.

Nassella pulchra Purple Needlegrass TI B 70,000 6.0 9.6Melica californica Onion grass I BR 240,000 2.0 11.0Elymus glaucus Blue wildrye T B 110,000 2.0 5.1Leymus triticoides Creeping wildrye T R 120,000 2.0 5.5Elymus trachycaulus Yolo Slender wheatgrass T B 80,000 2.0 3.7Bromus carinatus California brome T B 64,000 1.0 1.5

DRY ROADSIDES- NEXT TO PAVEMENT BERM

Species Common Name Ht GF Approx Live Rate ApproxSeed/lb. lbs/acre Seeds/sq. ft.

Nassella pulchra Purple Needlegrass TI B 70,000 5.0 8.0Nassella cernua Nodding needlegrass I B 185,000 3.0 10.7Nassella lepida Foothill Needlegrass S B 350,000 2.5 20.1Hordeum californicum California barley S B 140,000 2.5 8.0Poa secunda Pine bluegrass S B 600,000 2.5 34.0

DRY ROADSIDES-SWALE AND OUTER BERM

Species Common Name Ht GF Approx Live Rate ApproxSeed/lb. lbs/acre Seeds/sq. ft.

Nassella pulchra Purple Needlegrass TI B 70,000 6.0 9.6Elymus glaucus Blue wildrye T B 110,000 2.0 5.1Leymus triticoides Creeping wildrye T R 120,000 2.0 5.5Hordeum brachyantherum Meadow barley S B 75,000 4.0 6.9

VALLEY WETLAND BERMS AND EDGES/RIPARIAN (TOLERANT OF SHORT DURATION FLOODING)Species Common Name Ht GF Approx Live Rate Approx

Seed/lb. lbs/acre Seeds/sq. ft.

Elymus glaucus Blue wildrye T B 110,000 5.0 12.6Leymus triticoides Creeping wildrye T R 120,000 4.0 11.0Elymus trachycaulus Yolo Slender wheatgrass T B 80,000 3.0 5.5Hordeum brachyantherum Meadow barley S B 75,000 4.0 6.9

KEY


Ht plant height GF growth form T tall B bunchingI intermediate R rhizomatous S short


Growers in Yolo County have found a solution tothe problem of maintaining field borders and othernoncrop farm areas. By planting hedgerows of non-invasive native plants, they create wildlife habitatareas that attract beneficial insects and providecompetition against invasive weeds. With carefulestablishment and management techniques,hedgerows can provide a useful and attractivealternative to continuously scraping, spraying, andcultivating field edges and other “unfarmed” areasthat would otherwise become sources of weed seeds.

What is a Hedgerow?Hedgerows are lines or groups of trees, shrubs,

perennial forbs, or grasses that are planted along fieldedges or other unused areas. For agricultural areas inCalifornia, we recommend using a variety of nativegrasses, perennial forbs, shrubs, and trees that attractdifferent types of beneficial insects, mammals, reptiles,and birds (including raptors). Native plants workextremely well in hedgerows because they require verylittle care after an establishment period of about threeyears. Many native plants have deep roots that holdsoil and increase water permeability. Hedgerow areassuppress weeds by providing competition, and are lesssusceptible to wind and water erosion than bare soil.They can also filter surface runoff water, preventingsilt, nutrients, and pesticides from entering waterways.

Selecting a SiteAny unused farm area with good soil and access

to water may make a good hedgerow site. The nativeplant species that we recommend using in an insectaryhedgerow are very water sensitive; some plants like agreat deal of water, while others can develop root andcrown rot if overwatered. In order to combat thischallenge, we recommend using drip irrigation tubeswith adjustable emitters. Drip irrigation is the mosteffective, efficient and successful method of wateringyour new hedgerow. A secondary, very effectivemethod is furrow irrigation. It is imperative to selecta site that can be irrigated by one of these methods;access and availability of water to a new hedgerowplanting is the single-most important factor in plantsurvival in the first year.

Another important factor in site selection isvulnerability to flooding and/or standing water. Aspreviously discussed, many native plant species arevery sensitive to overwatering, and if a site is knownfor its tendency to flood or have standing waterduring the winter months (or due to overwateringof a field crop), DO NOT use this site for ahedgerow planting. If possible, try to select a sitethat is either on higher ground or that you areabsolutely sure does not collect water at any timeof year. Of course, in high water years, this maynot be avoided, but do not place a hedgerow on lowground and expect many of the plants to survive.

A third consideration is equipment. Make surethe area is out of the way of equipment; placing thehedgerow too close to a road or high-traveled areamay be problematic if the equipment damages theplants. Hedgerows can certainly be planted next toroads, but recognize that many of these shrubs andtrees will grow to 10-15 feet in width; be sure toleave enough room for this growth. This may meanplanning spaces in the hedgerow for equipment todrive through, or choosing an alternate site thatwould be less intrusive.

Establishing Hedgerows for Pest Control and WildlifeMary Kimball & Celia Lamb, Yolo County RCD

Young hedgerow at a Yolo County farm

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Choosing PlantsPlants should be selected according to the purpose

you want the hedgerow to serve, but local species arelikely to be best adapted to conditions on your farm. Itis important to look at the water needs of each plant.Some natives, such as Toyon, Ceanothus spp., andCalifornia buckwheat, are extremely drought-tolerantand will die if their root crowns get wet for too long.These are best planted in well-drained soils. Others,such as willows and cottonwoods, prefer wetter areas.Within a given site, you may have varying soil types orlower areas that are more prone to flooding. In thiscase, choose plants with these differences in mind;i.e. select water-loving plants for some areas, anddrought-tolerant plants for others. If you take the timebeforehand to choose plants according to your site,rather than just using an “example” hedgerowrecommendation, you will have much more successwith plant survival; plants will grow faster, behealthier, and be better able to resist disease andpest insect pressure.

If you would like your hedgerow to serve as awindbreak, then you should design a hedgerow withmany tall-growing shrubs and trees. Recommendedspecies include cottonwoods, willows, native oaks,redbuds, and elderberry. Remember too, that as thesetrees grow, their understory will be less vegetated, andyou may want to include shrubs in between trees toprovide habitat and erosion control closer to the ground.By including shrubs, you will also gain more insectaryvalue to the hedgerow. For lists of possible species fordifferent settings in the Yolo County area, please seethe attached list.

If your primarygoal is to use plantsto attract beneficialinsects (i.e. insectsthat prey on orparasitize croppests), you shouldplant species withplentiful nectar andpollen. If you areunsure whether aplant will attractbeneficial insects,observe one during

its flowering stageto see if bees andother insects areusing it. Forexample, floweringCeanothus andcoyote brush tendto have largequantities ofhoverflies andbees feeding ontheir pollen andnectar, whereasflowering oleanderbushes attractvery few insects.Consider the timeof year during which each species flowers, and tryto use a good variety of plant species so thatflowering will take place almost year-round. Manybeneficials are looking for nectar and pollen in earlyspring and late fall, when nearby crops are just beingplanted or are being harvested. By using plant speciesthat flower during these times, you will encouragegreater use of the hedgerow, as these insects do nothave other habitat in the area. The diagram on thefollowing page contains information you may use toplan a hedgerow with staggered flowering periods.

Design, Site Preparation and PlantingUnless the future hedgerow site has been kept

free of weeds, it is best to begin regular disking,burning, and/or spraying at least one year beforeyou intend to plant. Reducing the weed seed bankin this way will be especially important if you intendto plant grasses. Depending on the layout of yourhedgerow and your irrigation method, you may needto prepare one or more planting beds for nativegrasses. Preparation for seeding is no different thanpreparing a seed bed for wheat, alfalfa, or mostother crops. It is important to cultivate the area,depending on the soil type, by disking thoroughlyand then harrowing to prepare an even, well-drainedbed that is free of large clods of soil that can impedegrass germination.

The best time to plant native grass seed is duringthe fall. You may want to wait for a rainstorm to bringup the first flush of weeds, and then spray, burn and/or

ESTABLISHING HEDGEROWS FOR PEST CONTROL AND WILDLIFE

Coyote brush leaf and flower

Installing a hedgerow along a fenceline

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harrow the weeds before planting. You can alsocontrol weeds in the first 1-2 weeks after plantingby spraying glyphosphate before the native grassesemerge. Native grasses tend to take 2-3 weeks toemerge, but this is very weather dependent; be sureto inspect the site for germination before spraying.Native grass seed can be drilled, but most often theseed is broadcast with the use of a “belly grinder”(available from the RCD or your native grasssupplier). After spreading, the grass seed shouldbe harrowed in lightly (only 1/8’’ is necessary), sothat seeds won’t dry out and die. If harrowing isn’tpossible, a light covering of hay can also be used.The harrowing can be done with a 4-wheel ATCand light chain harrow, which also allows for gettingon the site even after numerous rains. Please referto the article “Strategies for Establishing CaliforniaNative Grasses by Direct Seeding in the SacramentoValley and Adjacent Foothills,” (in this book) for morespecific instructions.

Most native forbs, shrubs, and trees should beplanted in the fall, although some become dormant atthat time. Consult with your plant supplier for the besttransplanting time. When planting, be sure to allow theshrubs and trees enough room to spread. A good ruleof thumb is to plant them at centers 13-15 feet apartfrom each other. If you are using perennial forbs andsmall shrubs in your hedgerow, these can be placedin between the larger shrubs and trees, at a centerspacing of 7-8 feet. Placing any of these plants anycloser can inhibit growth in years to come, and isnot necessary both economically and physically.

Before transplanting shrubs and trees, you mayneed to pre-soak the area to be planted to make hole-digging easier. Pre-soaking holes before transplantingis also a good way to reduce the likelihood of transplantshock. You may want to consider using fertilizer tabletsfor woody shrubs and trees. Dig a hole about twicethe width and 1 1/2 times the depth of the original root


Flowering Periods of California Native Insectary Plants

Willow spp.

Ceanothus spp.

Coffeeberry

Hollyleaf cherry

Yarrow

Silverlace vine

ToyonGolden stickymonkeyflowerElderberry

California Buckwheat

Deergrass

Creeping boobialla

California fuchsia

Narrowleaf milkweed

St. Catherine’s lace

Coyotebrush

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec


ball, drop the fertilizer tablet in, and cover with a smallamount of soil so that the tablet is not in direct contactwith the roots. Mound soil in the base of the hole sothat the top of the root ball is roughly at the surroundingground level. Remove the plant gently from itscontainer and place it in the hole. If you need to loosenthe root ball from the sides of the container, roll thecontainer around in your hands, but never pull the plantout by its stem. Pack soil gently around the rootball toensure good soil contact and minimize settling. Coverthe top of the rootball with 1/4”- 1/2” of soil to preventit from drying out. Be sure not to cover the top of therootball too much, especially if the plant is a drought-tolerant shrub; the soil can hold water against the rootcrown, killing the shrub. Soak the new plantings wellto minimize transplant shock and settle any air pocketsaround the rootball.

Hedgerow MaintenanceHedgerows need to be “farmed” during the first 2-

3 years. This entails controlling invasive weeds andirrigating during dry periods. The most importantmaintenance that is necessary for hedgerow successis weed control. Even though you’ve planted nativegrasses, shrubs and trees, weeds will still be a problemfor several years.

NATIVE GRASSES

After the initial spraying of glyphosphate afterplanting, you must carefully monitor weed pressure innative grass stands. In most cases, winter annuals suchas annual rye grass, chickweed, yellow star thistle,annual sow thistle, wild oats, and mustard species canbe prevalent and cause major problems. Since nativegrasses are slower growing, the annual weed growthcan quickly surpass that of the natives and shade themout, thus preventing them from becoming established.Use selective herbicides for broadleaf weeds in theearly spring to make sure that they don’t get too largeand produce seed. Annual grasses are hard to manage,but the best method is to mow your native grass standbefore the annuals go to seed so that they are unableto reproduce for the following year.


Treasure Island blueblossom plant (left) and leaf and flower (right)

HEDGEROW PLANTS

In the first year of growth, we have found thatapplying the pre-emergent herbicide Oxadiazon(granular formulation--see label for applicationrestrictions) along the hedgerow just after plantingis the most effective in controlling winter annualsthroughout the winter season and even beyond. Youcan use glyphosphate and 2-4D to spot spray (usinga backpack-sprayer), but must be extremely carefulto not hit any of the shrubs or trees with any of theherbicide. Be sure to spray on very calm days, anduse your judgement as to how close to a plant tospray. Hand-hoeing during the summer months,although labor-intensive, is very effective.

IRRIGATION

Find out the water needs of your plants fromyour supplier. Native grasses do not need summerwatering because they become dormant at that time.Most shrubs and trees will need watering aboutevery 2-4 weeks during drought months (March-November, depending on the year). After the 2-3year establishment period, irrigation should no longerbe necessary (depending on the plant species), andweed control measures can be considerablyreduced. You may wish to keep notes on insect andwildlife visitation, weed problems and controlmethods you use in the hedgerow, weatherconditions, and plant species that seem especiallysuited to your area, so you can share your resultswith others. The Yolo RCD has planted severalhedgerows, and we would be very interested in hearingyour questions and comments regarding your ownhedgerow as we continue to monitor our hedgerowsand work on improving ourestablishment methods.



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Sample Design of Insectary HedgerowsJae Lee, NRCS



The following is a list of possible plants for hedgerow designs in valley oak woodland/savannah situations. The notesprovide information to help determine planting combinations that allow individual species appropriate sunlight, water,and adequate space. General growth habits may also be included. Hedgerows comprised of a mix of trees and shrubs aregenerally long lived. Trees are typically longer lived than shrubs. However, many shrubs can have life spans of more than15 - 20 years. The Ceanothus species have one of the shortest life spans—5-10 years is typical. All of these plants (with theexception of the cool season native grasses) do require irrigation during their establishment period of 2-4 years.

Small Trees (Deciduous)Common Name Scientific Name NotesWestern redbud Cercis occidentalis Many branched shrub to multiple trunk tree, 6’-20’ tall,

10’-15’ wide, tolerates partial shade to full sun.Occasional summer water.

Blue elderberry Sambucus mexicana Shrub 4’-10’ tall or tall tree to 40’, commonly found inmoist places but can tolerate some drought. Flowers April- Nov. Occasional summer water.

Small Trees (Evergreen)Common Name Scientific Name NotesTreasure Island blueblossom Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman’ Mounding shrub with 1”-2” leaves; 8’-15’ tall, 10’-15’

wide, train to small tree, needs full sun. Infrequent summerwater. Flowers Feb.-April.

Blue blossom Ceanothus thyrsiflorus Hardy, 6’-20’, full sun. Flowers March-May. Infrequentsummer water.

Toyon Heteromeles arbutifolia Dense shrub 6’-10’ or multi-trunked small tree, 15’-25’,grows in full sun or partial shade. Flowers May-June. Looksbetter with occasional summer water.

Hollyleaf cherry Prunus ilicifolia Moderate growth rate, 20’-40’ tall (large and old specimensresemble California live oak), best in full sun, can take lightshade. Flowers April-May. Looks better with infrequentdeep summer water.

Coffeeberry Rhamnus californica Mounding shrub, reaches 12’-15’, variety ‘Eve Case’ ismore compact, 3’-8’ tall and wide, grows in full sun to halfshade. Flowers April-May. Looks better with occasionalsummer water.

Shrubs (Deciduous)Common Name Scientific Name NotesQuail bush Atriplex lentiformis Densely branched, sometimes spiny; 3’-10’ tall, 6’-12’

wide, needs full sun. Flowers July - October. Plant in areasisolated from sugarbeet production.

Brewer saltbush Atriplex lentiformis Almost evergreen, not spiny; 5’-7’ high, 6’-8’ wide.ssp. breweri Plant in areas isolated from sugarbeet production.

Mule fat Baccharis viminea 6’-10’ tall. Flowers March - May. Drought tolerant butlooks better with occasional water.

Plant List for Oak Woodland and Savannah Situations*(Adaped for “Insectary” Plantings in Small Areas)

Jae Lee, NRCS

* This list of native species is for general information only. The Natural Resources Conservation Service does not imply or consent to the useof this information as a recommendation for species selection. Plant establishment success is not implied. Varying environmental and humanfactors, including, but not limited to, soil type, climate, topography, weed management, and watering regime will invariably affect theestablishment of these plants.



Shrubs (Evergreen)Common Name Scientific Name NotesCoyote brush Baccharis pilularis Tough, 4’-8’ wide and high. Looks better with occasional summer

water. Males flower Oct.-Nov., females Oct.-Jan.Wild lilac Ceanothus ‘Concha’ Densely clad, small leaves, 6’-8’ tall and wide. Flowers March-

April. Infrequent summer water.Buckbrush Ceanothus cuneatus 8’ tall. Flowers Feb.-April. Very drought tolerant.

Small Shrubs/Ground CoverCommon Name Scientific Name NotesCommon yarrow Achillea millefolium Spreading perennial with fernlike foliage and flowers’ stems up

to 3’, needs full sun, care-free. Flowers April-July. Toleratesdry conditions well.

Narrowleaf milkweed Asclepias fascicularis Upright perennial, 2’-3’ tall with long narrow leaves, needs fullsun. Flowers July-Oct. Tolerates dry conditions.

Coyote brush Baccharis pilularis, Dense, 12”-18” tall with 5’-6’ spread, needs full sun. Cancompact form flower Oct.-Jan. Looks better with occasional summer water.

Yankee Point Carmel creeper Ceanothus g. var. h. Fast-growing, 3’-5’ tall, 6’-8’ wide, good ground cover,Yankee Point’ needs full sun. Flowers March-May. Looks better with occasional

summer water.California buckwheat Eriogonum fasciculatum Forms 2’-5’ tall, 4’ wide clump, with wide, woolly leaves,

var. foliolosum needs full sun. Flowers May-Dec. Best on drier sites.

St. Catherine’s lace Eriogonum giganteum Large open form, 4’-5’ tall. Flowers June-Nov. Best on drier sites.

Grass (Seed combinations, totaling 15 lbs. drilled or 25 lbs. broadcast**, should bemixed according to site conditions. Many species available in plugs.)

Common Name Scientific Name NotesThree-awn Aristida hamulosa Warm season clumping, 10” tall. Very drought tolerant.

California brome Bromus carinatus Cool season, annual/biennial, 1.5’-3’ tall. Deep soils.

Blue wildrye Elymus glaucus Cool season perennial bunchgrass, 2’-3’ tall. Establishes rapidly,deep good soils.

Yolo slender wheatgrass Elymus trachycaulus majus Cool season perennial bunchgrass, 18”-4’ tall, tolerates full sunto light shade. Deep good soil.

Idaho fescue Festuca idahoensis Cool season tufted perennial, 1’-2’, tall. Tolerates dryconditions.

Meadow barley Hordeum brachyantherum Tufted, perennial bunchgrass, 1’ tall, 8” wide. Adapted to wetconditions.

California barley Hordeum californicum Adapted to upland dry meadows, 2’-4’ tall. Tolerant of winterand spring flooding.

Creeping wildrye Leymus triticoides ‘Rio’ Cool season, perennial, spreads by rhizomes, 2’-3’ tall. Suitedto wetter conditions.

Onion grass Melica californica Cool season grass growing 1’-2’ tall with flower spikes, toleratesfull sun to partial shaded. Well-drained soils, deep or shallow.

Nodding needlegrass Nassella cernua Cool season spreading bunchgrass, 1’-2’ tall. Well-drained soils,deep or shallow.

Purple needlegrass Nassella pulchra Cool season bunchgrass, 1’-2’ tall, flower stocks to 30” in spring.Widely adapted.

Foothill needlegrass Nassella lepida Cool season perennial bunchgrass, 1’- 2’ tall. Adapted to dryconditions.

Pine bluegrass Poa secunda Cool season tufted perennial bunchgrass, 2.5’ tall summerdormant. Adapted to shallow soils.

Squirrel tail Sitanion jubatum Cool season, clumping, 1.5’-5’ tall, tolerates full sun. Dry soils.** On challenging sites (e.g. low fertility soil, steep slopes, disturbed areas), use up to 20 lbs. drilled and 30 lbs. broadcast.



Task Date Labor Material Cost Equipment Cost Total $/hour

Hedgerow InstallationHedgerow design 6-11/96 $260.00 Survey flags: $8.00 $268.00Glyphosate: summer weed control 8/96 $20.00 Glyphosate $30.00 ATV+sprayer: $8.08 $58.08Disc: pre-plant weed control 10/96 $10.00 Tractor+disc: $18.09 $28.09Bed preparation: plants/grasses 10/96 $10.00 Tractor+bedshaper: $14.33 $24.33Fertilize - preplant (tablets) 11/96 $20.00 Fertilizer: $43.50 $63.50Plant trees, shrubs, and forbs 11/96 $120.00 Plants: $500.00 $620.00Install 2’ tree tubes 11/96 $50.00 tree tubes: $172.50 $222.50Plant grasses (broadcast) 11/96 $20.00 Seed: $275.00 $295.00Harrow to cover grass seed 11/96 $10.00 ATV+harrow: $4.04 $14.04Glyphosate: annual weed control 11/96 $10.00 Glyphosate: $15.00 $25.00Oxadiazon: apply in plant row 11/96 $10.00 Oxadiazon: $75.00 $85.00Install drip irrigation system 3/97 $100.00 Drip supplies: $200.00 $300.00TOTAL INSTALLATION $640.00 $1,319.00 $44.54 2,003.54

Hedgerow Maintenance2,4-D: Broadleaf weed control 3/97 $10.00 2,4-D: $20.00 ATV+sprayer: $4.04 $34.04Hoe hedge plant row* 3-9/97 $250.00 $250.00Irrigate 2X/month 3-10/97 $250.00 Emitters/plugs: $8.25 $258.25Mow grasses: annual weed cntrl 4/97 $10.00 Tractor+mower: $10.19 $20.19Remove tree tubes 4-5/97 $20.00 $20.00Glyphosate: spot-spray 5-6/97 $20.00 Glyphosate: $15.00 $35.00Fertilize: preplant (tablets) 9/97 $10.00 Fertilizer: $8.70 $18.70Replant trees, shrubs & forbs 9/97 $80.00 Plants: $100.00 $180.002,4-D: spot-spray in grasses 9/97 $10.00 2,4-D: $10.00 $20.00Flame: annual grass weed cntrl 10/97 $10.00 Propane: $15.00 ATV+flamer: $4.04 $29.04Oxadiazon: entire hedgerow 10/97 $20.00 Oxadiazon: $225.00 $245.00Mow grasses 2X: weed control 3-5/98 $20.00 Tractor+mower: $20.38 $40.38Hoe hedge plant row 3-5/98 $120.00 $120.00Irrigate 2X/month 4-9/98 $200.00 $200.00Hoe hedge plant row 6-7/98 $120.00 $120.00Herbicide: 2,4-D (in grasses) 8/98 $10.00 2,4-D: $10.00 $20.00TOTAL MAINTENANCE $1,160.00 $411.95 $38.65 $1,610.60

TOTAL COST $1,800.00 $1,730.95 $83.19 $3,614.14

*Use of Oxadiazon in plant row reduced hoeing cost by one-half compared to non-Oxadiazon sites.

Hedgerow Installation and Maintenance Cost EstimatesFor one hedgerow 1400 feet long x 15 feet wide (~ 0.5 ac.) planted with a strip of native grasses next toa line of shrubs.

Labor Costs are estimated at $10/hour. The source of hourly Equipment Costs is UCCE’s “Sample Costs toProduce Processing Tomatoes in Yolo County--1997.” For the purpose of this study, only operating costsare used to portray Equipment Costs (Repairs, Fuel & Lube).


One way to begin site preparation is with acontrolled burn in the summer or fall to destroy surfaceweed seeds and trash. Weeds that germinate laterthrough the winter and spring can be disked under inMarch or April, before they set seed. The area shouldbe left fallow throughout the growing season, but anyadditional weeds that germinate should be controlledeither with herbicides sprays, tillage, or burning beforeseeds are mature. Final seedbed preparation in thefall, done by disking or other tillage equipment, mayalso serve to remove persistent weeds. If clods arelarge, a scraper or roller may be needed to provideseedbed uniformity and to close up air spaces so asto help conserve soil moisture.

The type of seed selected or the mixture of specieswill depend on location, soil type and moistureconditions expected throughout the season. Suppliersof native grass seed can provide good information onspecies to select for different situations. A mixture ofvarieties, with differing moisture adaptations, is oftenrecommended for roadsides where a ditch or swaleis present. Grasses suited to drier conditions willpredominate on the higher ground, whereas those thattolerate occasional flowing water will thrive in thelower areas.

Seeding is usually done in the fall, to allow rains toprovide the moisture needed for germination. Seedcan be drilled directly into the seedbed, as prepared,or into soils managed under no-till situations. Whereno-till management has been used, weed controlbefore and shortly after planting can and should beaccomplished with herbicides or burning.

Broadcasting is another means of planting nativegrass seed. After seeding by this method, a light

Perennial bunchgrasses that are native to Californiacan go a long way toward helping solve a series ofproblems associated with roadside maintenance. Atthe same time, they can improve the appearance of apart of rural landscapes that are typically weedy inone season or scraped bare in another.

Most road rights-of-way, whether county roads,state highways or interstate freeways, are covered withvegetation that consists primarily of noxious, invasiveweeds. These weeds are considered to be a problemsource of weed seeds that move into agriculturalfields—resulting in herbicide treatments—and continueto reinfest the same roadsides. Efforts to clean up theroadsides usually involve multiple herbicide sprays and/or scrapings. These measures either contribute topesticide runoff into waterways or leave soil strippedbare and subject to erosion during winter storms orheavy winds.

Bunchgrasses can be very effective competitorswith these noxious weeds through shading andcompetition for nutrients. Their extensive root systemsanchor soils during erosive rainstorms, keeping roadshoulders more stable and firm, and provide pathwaysfor surface water to percolate into the soil.

In addition to these benefits, native bunchgrassesalso provide excellent wildlife habitat, encouraginggreater biodiversity. Mature stands of these grassescan harbor a large variety of small mammals, reptiles,game birds, songbirds and insects - including importantfood crop pollinators.

EstablishmentEstablishing native grasses requires using some

standard farming practices for the first few years.Because of their slow germination, low seedling vigorand slower growth rates, they must be managed asmany agricultural crops are with efforts made to reducecompetition by more vigorous, non-native, annualweeds. Reduction of weed competition is so importantthat the process could be started up to a year in advanceof the actual planting.

Roadside Establishment of Native Perennial GrassesJeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD

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Long-term maintenance of native grass stands ismostly weed control. This is needed for 2-6 years,depending on the grass species, conditions, and priorweed levels. However, after 3-4 years, when theperennials are well-established, maintenance needsshould be minimal. Grazing, mowing and burning areeffective, low-cost options for vegetation management.An annual, well-timed treatment may be sufficient tomaintain these grasses at a desired height or to reducedry matter. This type of long-term management couldultimately cost less than the repeated sprays andcultivations traditionally used for roadside weed control.

The table on the following page summarizes themanagement steps needed for the establishment ofnative, perennial bunchgrasses along roadsides over athree-year period. Ideally, weed control should startup to one full year in advance of planting.

ROADSIDE ESTABLISHMENT OF NATIVE PERENNIAL GRASSES

harrowing and rolling is usually necessary in order tocover the seed and settle it well into the seedbed.Mulching lightly with native grass straw is often doneto seeded areas to aid in erosion control as well askeeping the seedbed moist during dry periods.

MaintenanceGermination of native grass seeds usually occurs

in about two weeks for early fall plantings whentemperatures are warmer. Later plantings may takeup to four weeks. Spraying of any non-selectiveherbicides for weed control must be done before theyoung seedlings emerge. Afterwards, weed controloptions include selective herbicides, rope-wickapplications, or timed mowings that will affect tallerannual weeds, reducing their canopy and allowing theshorter, less vigorous natives greater access to sunlight.

Pavement edge: California barley (Hordeum californicum), Pine bluegrass (Poa secunda), Purpleneedlegrass (Nassella pulchra), Nodding needlegrass (Nassella cernua), California oniongrass(Melica californica).

Roadside berm and inner ditchbank: California barley, California oniongrass, Meadow barley(Hordeum brachyantherum), Nodding needlegrass, Pine bluegrass, Purple Needlegrass, andSquirreltail (Elymus elymoides).

Ditch bed: Meadow barley, Purple needlegrass, and sedges and rushes.

Outer ditchbank and fieldside berm:Deep, Good Soils: Blue wildrye (Elymus glaucus), Purple needlegrass, Slender wheatgrass(Elymus trachycaulus ssp. trachycaulus), California barley, and Deergrass (Muhlenbergia rigens).Poor Soils: Purple needlegrass, Nodding needlegrass, California barley, and Pine bluegrass.

Field edge: Creeping wildrye (Leymus triticoides).

Cross-section of roadside habitat with sample selections.

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Field edge Road Pavement Fieldside

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Year 1

Month Project DescriptionMarch-September Prepare Seed Bed • disking in spring and/or burning in fall

removes weeds and prepares the soil forplanting

September-March Seeding & First Weed Control • drill or broadcast and harrow seed• spray glyphosphate on 1st flush of weeds

before native grasses emerge

February-March Broadleaf Weed Control • spray phenoxy herbicides to eliminatebroadleaf weeds in planted area

March-June Late Grass Weed Control • mow, hay, or lightly graze planted area toremove annual grasses before they go to seed

Year 2

October-December Fall Weed Control • pre-emergent herbicides (consult AgExtension) or a broadleaf herbicide afterweed emergence

April-June Spring Weed Control • broad-leaf herbicides, mowing, burning, orgrazing can be used, depending on theweeds that are present

Year 3 and Beyond

October-November Fall Weed Control • pre-emergent herbicide or burning

April-July Spring or Summer • mowing, burning, or grazing (grass lands areManagement of Grasses healthiest when these management practices

are alternated from year to year)

Native Grass Establishment Schedule


Grassed Roadside Installation and Maintenance Cost Estimate (1999)For one mile of roadside, 15 feet wide (approx. 1.8 acres)

Cost/hr. Time Total CostLow High Low High Low HighRange Range Range Range Range Range

InstallationEarthwork* $70.00 $70.00 2 8 hrs. $140.00 $560.00Bed preparation 50.00 50.00 2 4 hrs. 100.00 200.00Pre-plant Herbicide 60.00 0 0.5 gal. 30.00Labor 10.00 0 2 hrs. 20.00Spray rig 25.00 0 2 hrs. 50.00Seeding:20-40 lbs./acre for 1.8 ac. 10.00 35.00 36 72 lbs. 360.00 2,520.00Broadcast/Harrowing Seed 35.00 35.00 2 8 hrs. 70.00 280.00Total Installation Cost $670.00 $3,660.00

Maintenance Costs (first three years):Mowing 40.00 40.00 2 2 hrs. 80.00 80.00Spot spray broadleaf weeds 10.00 10.00 1 3 hrs. 10.00 30.00Herbicide 22.00 60.00 .125 .25 gal. 2.75 15.00Second mowing 40.00 0 2 hrs. 80.00Controlled Burn (once in 3 yrs) 10.00 0 7 hrs. 70.00Annual Cost $92.75 $275.00

Perpetual Costs:**Mowing 40.00 40.00 2 4 hrs. 80.00 160.00Spot spraying 10.00 0 4 hrs. 40.00Herbicide 60.00 0 .25 gal. 15.00Controlled burn (every 2nd yr. max.) 10.00 0 10 hrs. 100.00

Annual Cost $80.00 $315.00Average annual maintenance cost over 10 years $83.83 $303.00

For comparison, standard roadside management in Yolo County (a combination of “blading,” spraying,and/or mowing) costs between $140 and $490 per year depending on the roadside and managementsystem. This does not include the secondary weed control costs to landowners or downstream waterquality problems.

* Depending on your roadside’s existing configuration, there may be minimal or extensive regradingrequired. This grading estimate assumes work done by a county roadside blade operator (in which case,the cost is theirs).

** The degree of long-term maintenance can depend on the individual landowner’s tolerance forsome weeds or no weeds.




Native Grass Establishment Program Checklist(reproduce for project reference)

Project/Location_____________________________ Date________________

___ Choose a site that will not be awkward to protect and that can be accessed with equipmentfor maintenance

___ Minimize weed generation and seed production on proposed site for at least one year___ Order seed (see vendor list)

Year 1 (Summer/1st Fall-2nd Fall)___ Prepare seed bed by disking in spring and/or burning in fall___ Kill first flush of fall weeds after early rains___ Drill or broadcast seed (preferably before December, but sometimes OK as late as March)___ Spray out weed seedlings that germinate within two weeks of seeding___ In mid-to-late winter, spray phenoxy herbicides to eliminate broadleaf weeds in

planted area (use only herbicides such as MCPA that won’t burn perennial grass seedlings)___ In spring, mow, hay, or lightly graze planted area to remove annual grasses before they

produce viable seed (in a wet spring, this may need to be repeated)___ Late-spring/summer weed control by hoeing, mowing, or with chemicals (as needed)

Year 2 (2nd Fall-3rd Fall)___ (Optional) Apply preemergent herbicides (consult Ag Extension) or a broadleaf

herbicide after weed emergence in fall___ In late winter, spot spray phenoxy herbicides or hoe to eliminate broadleaf weeds in

planted area___ Mow, hay, or lightly graze planted area to remove annual grasses before they produce

viable seed (in a wet spring, this may need to be repeated)___ Late-spring/summer weed control by hoeing or with chemicals (as needed)___ (Optional) Late spring/summer/fall burn to reduce weed seed production and thatch; timing

depends on the available fuel (dry matter to carry a fire) and type of weeds present

Year 3 and Beyond___ Fall weed control with preemergent herbicide or fire___ Selective hoeing and spot spraying for winter broadleaf and grass weeds___ Spring mowing, burning, or grazing (grasslands are healthiest when these management

practices are alternated from year-to-year)___ Selective hoeing and spot spraying for summer broadleaf and grass weeds



BackgroundTailwater ponds, especially those of two stage

design, are changing how row crop farmers managerunoff water in Yolo County. While ponds built overthe last decade may not have shared the sameobjectives, their cumulative success demonstrates theexcellent multi-purpose benefits from well designedtailwater ponds. Not only do ponds offer solutions towidely-recognized surface water quality problems, theyprovide valuable wildlife habitat and enhance groundwater recharge.

Without intervention, irrigation water turns intounrestricted runoff, thus bringing about a series ofproblems. Irrigated row crop fields that drain to one orseveral main low spots often empty into an initialdrainage system that then dumps into a main waterconveyance channel (canal or slough). Silt-laden runoffresults both from summer irrigation and, even moreso, from winter storms. Runoff not only removestopsoil from farmland but deposits this resourcedownstream, at unwanted places throughout thewatershed and beyond.

Ditch maintenance is perhaps the most visibleimpact of this sediment-laden run-off, but not the onlyone. First, public works crews must constantly removesilt from roadside ditches. Sloughs and canals also needperiodic expensive excavation. Furthermore, waterquality flowing into the Sacramento River, Delta, andBay is seriously degraded, thus adding to non-pointsource pollution. A third result of unrestricted runoff isthe loss of the water itself. For Yolo farmers, it makesmuch more sense to recapture this lost resourceand re-use it or return it to our groundwaterstorage systems.

DesignA straightforward, cost-effective solution to all these

widespread problems is the construction of a smalldouble-pond system that catches and stores at leastpart of the runoff water. The double-pond design worksefficiently by making the first, small pond work as asediment trap, engineered for easy excavation of silt

that is easily replaced on the field during fallgroundwork. The second, larger pond serves manyother purposes: water storage, ground water recharge,water return systems, and plant and wildlife habitat(see illustration).

The larger pond can be designed with a naturalshape rather than the usual long, narrow trench ofsome return systems. The curved ‘L’ shape in theaccompanying illustration is easy to construct withstandard scrapers. A gradual 3:1 or 4:1 slope (meaningfor every 3 or 4 feet of distance there is 1 foot of fall)-with a deep center portion is preferable. For stabilitypurposes, no slopes should be steeper than 1:1. Thepond should also not be less than 5 feet deep, to minimizethe encroachment of unwanted weeds. As waterpercolates or evaporates, the pond surface simplydecreases in circumference. Wildlife will continue touse it even when it turns into a puddle. The gradualslope also creates several moist soil planting zones forthe establishment of wetland species that can competeagainst unwanted weeds.

The overall size of your pond could vary greatly,depending on whether it will be used to capture andhold tailwater for wildlife only or to also recirculatethat water for irrigation. If you are planning a tailwaterrecirculating system (tailwater return system), pondand pump sizing will depend strongly on how youmanage crop irrigations. Factors to consider in thedesign of the pond and the sizing of the pump andflashboard risers are the amount of irrigation wateryou will be running, (measured in cubic feet per second(cfs) or gal./min.), whether you will be running half orfull sets, and the amount of runoff. For pond designpurposes runoff is usually considered to beapproximately 25% of the amount of water applied ina surface irrigation. Another important factor iswhether you will be returning the water to the upperend of the same field or sending it downstream toanother field. With such a variety of scenarios forrecirculating systems, it is important to consult withsomeone that has experience in pond design, such asyour local NRCS engineer or a private consultant.

Tailwater Ponds for Water Quality, Habitat and Farmland BenefitsJohn Anderson, Hedgerow Farms & Jeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD


TAILWATER PONDS FOR WATER QUALITY, HABITAT AND FARMLAND BENEFITS

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If you plan to have your pond simply capture andretain irrigation runoff, sizing and design becomessimpler. The deciding factors may simply be how muchspace you have or how much land you are willing totake out of production. A common size would be a 1-acre area in a 100 acre field, usually in the lowestcorner. Half of the 1-acre pond site would be occupiedby the pond, and the other half by a landscaped moundcreated by excavation spoil. The mound providesstructural diversity to the landscape which will in turnencourage the establishment of a wider variety of plantsand animals. The mound also reduces the expense ofmoving the dirt during excavation. However, in orderto maintain slope stability, any berms or mounds createdfrom the pond spoils should not be closer than 12 feetfrom the pond edge. If you want to minimize the lossof farmable acres, the pond spoils could also beredistributed over the field.

Water control structures, such as drop pipes,flashboard risers, or weir boxes, are important forcontrolling water movement and water levels in thesediment trap and pond. A flashboard riser, for example,should be used as the entry point from the sedimenttrap to the pond and should also be used at the pondoutlet. The pipe barrel should not be less than 12 inchesin diameter to reduce clogging from debris. The riser,or upright part of the structure, is always larger (approx.1.5 x barrel diameter) and is based on the maximumwater expected to come through the structure duringa given storm or irrigation event. Riser heights arestandard at three or four feet and up, but it shouldalways be high enough to see in order to avoidequipment damage. A steel stake can be a good marker.

VegetationThe plant species incorporated into a tailwater pond

system influence its functional and biological value. Apond initially established with the right plant materialsbecomes a self-sustaining, weed-free system. Theplanting areas within a system include the deep waterthat rarely goes dry (zone 1), a moist soil area that isintermittently under water (zones 2 and 3), edgesadjacent to the high water level, and dryland areaswith or without mounds. Dryland areas with moundshave slope and exposure zones. The three zones inthe moist soil area will vary considerably dependingon permeability of the soil and how often the pond isfilled during the irrigation season. The accompanying

plant list names some of the species that can beestablished and managed.

Water Quality and Storage BenefitsThe degree of ground water recharge in these

systems will vary according to soil permeability. Onepond alone is probably not significant, but one pond forevery hundred acres increases recharge range. Outof the volume of water that a single small pond holds,perhaps half of this water may return to the groundevery time the pond is filled either from winter stormsor irrigation. If this happened six times in a season andthere were ten 1 acre-foot ponds on 1000 acres, 30acre feet of water would recharge into the ground.

By acting as biological filters, as vegetation absorbsexcess chemical nutrients, ponds help improve waterquality. This has become a high priority mandate forthe ’90s. Agricultural practices have been identifiedby the EPA as a leading cause of poor water quality inthe Sacramento-San Joaquin River systems. In short,the installation of tailwater ponds has excellentpotential to improve the quality of ag water runoffwhile at the same time enhancing wildlife andrecharging ground water.

The Yolo County RCD promotes this landstewardship practice and we encourage farmers andland owners to consider installation of these valuablesystems. Cost-sharing is available through NaturalResources Conservation Service (NRCS)conservation programs. Technical assistance is alsoavailable through the NRCS office.



Suggested Plant Materials for Tailwater Ponds

Moist Soil Vegetation Zone 1 and 2Spikerush (Eleocharis macrostachya)Sedges (Cyperus species)Rushes (Scirpus americanus, Juncus effusus and J. balticus)

(Establishing short-statured rushes and sedges will keep out unwanted species such ascattails and bulrushes which will dominate a small wetland if allowed to proliferate.)

Moist Soil Vegetation Zone 3Species listed in Zones 1 and 2 Hairgrass (Deschampsia caespitosa)White-root sedge (Carex barbarae) Bentgrass (Agrostis exarata)Clustered field sedge (C. praegracilis)Meadow barley (Hordeum brachyantherum)

Pond EdgeMeadow barley Creeping wildrye (Leymus triticoides)Bentgrass (Agrostis exerata) Clustered field sedgeHairgrass White-root SedgeSlender wheatgrass (Elymus trachycaulus majus)

Dryland Native Grass MixtureBlue wildrye (Elymus glaucus)Purple needlegrass (Nassella pulchra)Oniongrass (Melica californica)Pine bluegrass (Poa secunda)

TreesWillows (Salix spp.) Cottonwood (Populus fremontii)Valley Oak (Quercus lobata) Interior Live Oak (Quercus wislizenii)Sycamore (Platanus racemosa) Buckeye (Aesculus californica)Black Walnut (Juglans californica var. hindsii)

ShrubsButton Willow (Cephalanthus occidentalis) Mulefat (Baccharis viminea)Coyote Brush (Baccharis pilularis) Elderberry (Sambucus mexicana)Wild Rose (Rosa californica) Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia)California Lilac (Ceanothus spp.) Redbud (Cercis occidentalis)

Note: The grass, tree, and shrub species listed are all commercially available. Many of the wetland sedgesand rushes are also commercially available but can be otherwise obtained by transplanting from naturalstands. Vendors are listed at the end of this book as potential commercial sources.




Tailwater Pond Installation and Maintenance Costs (1999)with return system and banks vegetated for wildlife benefit

Task Cost/Unit in $ Units Total Cost in $Low High Low High Low High

PondPlanning/Engineering 50.00 50.00 10 10 hours 500.00 500.00Pond Excavation & pipe install1 1.15 1.40 2500 7500 cu. yds. 2,875.00 10,500.00Flashboard riser2 175.00 525.00 1 1 each 175.00 525.00Pipe/Barrel extension3 9.00 15.00 20 100 feet 180.00 1,500.00subtotal pond construction cost 3,730.00 11,525.00

Return SystemLay pipe 2.00 1800 1800 feet 3,600.00 3,600.00Return pipe materials4 1.25 1.35 1800 1800 feet 2,250.00 2,430.00Pump installed5 4,000.00 10,000.00 1 1 each 4,000.00 10,000.00subtotal return system construction 9,850.00 16,030.00

Vegetation ManagementPlanning & design 50.00 50.00 2 6 hour 100.00 300.00Bed preparation 50.00 50.00 1 2 hour 50.00 100.00First weeds spray6 25.00 25.00 1 1 hour 25.00 25.00Herbicide material 60.00 60.00 0.125 0.25 gallons 7.50 15.00Seeding/incorporation 25.00 25.00 1 3 hours 25.00 75.00Seed (20-30 #/ac. for 0.25 ac.)7 10.00 30.00 5 7.5 pounds 50.00 225.00Winter weed mgmt.(spot spray) 10.00 10.00 1 2 hour 10.00 20.00Broadleaf herbicide 22.00 22.00 0.125 0.25 gallons 2.75 5.50Spring weed mgmt.(spot spray) 10.00 10.00 1 2 hour 10.00 20.00Broadleaf herbicide 22.00 22.00 0.125 0.25 gallons 2.75 5.50Mowing 40.00 40.00 1 2 hour 40.00 80.00Spot weeding (hand crew) 10.00 10.00 15 35 hours 150.00 350.00Irrigation Set-up (drip system)Small pump (for multiple sites) 300.00 800.00 1 1 each 300.00 800.00Irrigation supplies 150.00 150.00 1 1 each 150.00 150.00Installation labor 10.00 10.00 5 15 hours 50.00 150.00Irrigation labor 10.00 10.00 5 20 hours 50.00 200.00

Additional plantings:Plants (Trees & shrubs) 1.50 2.50 25 50 starts 37.50 125.00Waterline plants (rushes/sedges) 0.20 0.40 100 300 plugs 20.00 120.00Labor 10.00 10.00 4 8 hours 40.00 80.00subtotal vegetation cost 1,120.50 2,846.00

Total Installation Cost $14,700.50 $30,401.00



Annual Management (First 3 years)2nd Fall pre-emergent8 0 75.00 0 1 treatment 75.00Application labor 10.00 10.00 0 2 hours 20.00Winter spot spraying 10.00 10.00 2 4 hours 20.00 40.00Material 22.00 90.00 0.125 0.25 gallon 2.75 22.50Spring mowing 40.00 40.00 1 2 hour 40.00 80.00Irrigation for trees and shrubs (6x) 10.00 10.00 4 8 hours 40.00 80.00Dredging of pond or sed. ditch 50.00 50.00 2 6 hours 100.00 300.00Initial Annual Maintenance Costs 202.75 617.50

Perpetual Maintenance Costs (Beyond 3 years)Winter spot spraying9 10.00 10.00 0 4 hours 40.00Material 22.00 90.00 0.125 0.25 gallon 2.75 22.50Spring mowing 40.00 40.00 1 2 hour 40.00 80.00Dredging pond or sed. ditch10 50.00 50.00 2 6 hours 100.00 300.00Total Perpetual Annual Maintenance Costs 142.75 442.50

Annual Cost of Project Averaged Over Ten Years $1,630.80 $ 3,535.10

Annual savings on irrigation water with return system (for 100ac. tomatoes w/water cost of $15/ac.ft.): $2,000.00

(See endnotes on following page)

Sample Drop Pipe Isometric & Elevation

2” x 6”Redwood

Flashboards

Riser

Barrel



Endnotes:1This includes cutting the trench and setting in a

flash board riser inlet. Cost per cubic yard of soil movedvaries depending on the equipment required. A bellyscraper type excavator and bulldozer may cost around$1.10 per cubic yard, while a bucket excavator is inthe range of $1.40 per yard. A bucket excavator wouldbe necessary in locations with shallow ground water.Often, as much as can be dug with bulldozer andscraper will be done until a bucket excavator is needed.This helps to reduce project cost/time.

2The size of the flash board riser depends on thepeak flow anticipated through the pond. Your localNRCS field office can assist you in determining this.Risers are available in plastic and corrugated metalpipe (CMP). In corrosive soils, the NRCS requires(for cost share assistance) dipping CMP pipes andrisers in hot asphalt, which adds about 25% to the itemcost. Costs in this row reflect the range associatedwith item size and composition.

3This cost range reflects between 15" CMP (notdipped) and 18" CMP dipped in hot asphalt. Length ofpipe depends on pond design.

4This estimate is for 8" or 10" PVC low-head piperun underground to the top of a field with a 1/4 milerun. In a flat enough field, water could be returned tothe head with a reverse ditch, but it moves slowly andwill seep a lot of water unless it is lined. It also requiresperiodic cleaning and recutting.

5The range of installed pump costs is that betweena 5 Hp submersible electric capable of 520 gpm with20' of lift and a diesel motor, pump and suction line.The latter is much more costly, but it can be used atmultiple sites.

6Mechanical means of weed control can substitutefor the chemical means in this example. To minimizepost-project weed pressure, the project site should bekept clean of weeds for at least one season beforebreaking ground. After the pond is built and groundprepared, it is best to let fall rains bring up the firstweeds, kill them, and then plant.

7Prices for native grass seed vary greatly betweenspecies, from $5 to $50 per pound. The appropriatemix for a site dependends on pond design, soil, andclimatic conditions. Broadcast seeding rates can alsobe varied, depending on the project goals, but under 20pounds per acre is not recommended.

8If annual weed pressure is tremendous, applicationof a preemergence herbicide can offer relief to ayoung native grass stand. However, the herbicide willalso suppress any germination of native grass seedproduced in the first year.

9Spot treatment of weeds is necessary in order tosuppress undesirable broadleaf and grass weeds. Thisexample gives a range of costs from a commonbroadleaf herbicide to that of a glyphosate/oxyflourfenmix. Spot treatment can also be accomplished manuallyand/or mechanically, although at a greater laborexpense.

10If a sediment ditch is successful in catchingsediment, it must be dredged out periodically.Depending on the site, this could be multiple times perseason or only once every year or two. This is typicallyaccomplished with a bucket excavator to dig out theditch and a scraper to pick up and distribute the soilonce it has dried. A tailwater pond without a sedimentditch will require similar maintenance in order to remainfunctional. Because this poses a conflict with wildlifehabitat goals for a pond, the RCD strongly recommendsthe two-pond system of a sediment trap and pond.



Ponds constructed in low hills are easily recognizedas having aesthetic value. They can also collect andstore storm runoff from small watersheds and providewatering sites for domestic livestock and wildlife. Theycan provide wintering or pair water for waterfowl and,if properly vegetated, nesting sites as well. There area host of other wetland species that can benefit fromconstructed ponds. Installing one involves a few keysteps which, if done properly, will provide benefits forgenerations.

Site SelectionIn choosing a location for a hillside pond, the general

topography must be considered, especially whether ornot the land contours will provide a suitable shape anda variety of water depths for vegetation. The size(acreage) of the drainage/watershed will directly affectthe size of the dam needed to form the pond and theremust be an appropriate pair of high spots betweenwhich to construct the dam. Rainfall records for thearea can help incalculating theamount of runoffwater that the pondcould be expectedto carry.

The vegetationin and surroundinga proposed pondsite may notnecessarily affectyour ability toconstruct the pond,but can sometimesgive indications of the soil types. A hill pond constructedon highly permeable soil will be unable to hold water,but can provide groundwater recharge. A pondintended for livestock watering would best beconstructed on relatively impermeable soil so as to holdwater into the dry season. Small ponds may dry up byJune, but shallow ponds warm up sooner, growingimportant invertebrate food for nesting waterfowl.Reviewing a local soil survey or simply being familiar

Proposeddam site

Watershed

Hill Ponds for Landowner and Wildlife BenefitsJeanette Wrysinski, Yolo County RCD

with your own soil types could make the differencebetween success and failure for a new pond.

Water RightsThe successful completion of a pond project will

depend upon securing water rights. The State ofCalifornia requires that a water rights permit beobtained prior to constructing and storing water in pondsor reservoirs. The State Water Resources ControlBoard, Division of Water Rights (916.657.2170) willsend you a packet that includes information andapplication forms. There are three categories of waterright applications that could apply to hill pond projects:1) the Stock Pond program; 2) Small DomesticRegistration; and 3) Appropriative Water Rights.

The Stock Pond Registration program was primarilyfor livestock watering reservoirs constructed prior toJanuary 1, 1969 with a maximum storage capacity of10 acre-ft. The deadline to submit applications for

Stock Pond Registration wasDecember 31, 1997

Small DomesticRegistrations cost $100.00.Water stored under the SmallDomestic Registration program(maximum storage capacity of10 acre-ft.) is primarily forhousehold domestic use on theproperty but may also includewater for irrigating up to 1½acres of lawn and garden,domestic stock, aesthetic andrecreational uses.

Appropriative Water Rights, which are not limitedby a 10 acre-ft. maximum, are the water rights mostlikely needed for typical hill ponds. The cost for thistype of water right can exceed $1,000 and may takeseveral years to obtain, so one must plan ahead. Thesepermits must receive environmental clearance from thestate. Contact your local Natural Resources ConservationService (NRCS) or RCD office for assistance withcompleting the paperwork for the individual permits.


Technical Assistance and Cost SharingSeveral public and private agencies can provide

support to those wishing to construct a pond withmultiple benefits that include wildlife. Support couldinclude anything from surveying and pond design byan engineer, a site visit to discuss placement,configuration, habitat, slopes and vegetation, or cost-share programs that pay for varying portions ofconstruction. Organizations providing this supportinclude your local Resource Conservation District,California Waterfowl Association, Ducks Unlimited,the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service,the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and CaliforniaDepartment of Fish and Game, as well as local nativeplant suppliers and construction companies. Any ofthese organizations can provide more detailedinformation about their respective support programs.Please see our lists of local vendors and cost-sharesources located at the end of this book.

ConstructionThe first step toward construction, once a proper

site has been selected, is to survey the site and setstakes for the equipment operators. Soil disturbancedirectly under the dam site and excavation of the key-way (a trench across the dam-site that is below theexisting ground level) are important steps for gettinggood soil contact and preventing seepage under thedam (see drawing 1, “core trench”). During the damconstruction, each layer of soil pushed up should becompacted with an implement such as a sheep’s-footroller, but good compaction can’t be accomplishedunless the fill soil is moist. Careful attention to damslopes, bank slopes and pond contours will give thebest result in terms of function and bank stability.Typical slopes would be 2:1 (2 feet of run for each 1foot rise in height) on the dry side and 3:1 on the wetside to reduce erosion. These features will allow goodgrowth of the emergent wetland vegetation thatprovides good wildlife habitat. Most ponds require botha pipe spillway (drawing 1, left) and an emergencyoverflow with gradual slopes to prevent erosion duringoverflow events. A simple earthen overflow couldsuffice for a small pond in an ideal location. Engineersat the NRCS can help with design criteria.

VegetationA pond site can be planted with a large variety of

trees, shrubs, forbs and grasses for aesthetic value,biodiversity and soil stabilization. Attention need onlybe paid to matching the plants’ living requirements(especially its water needs) to conditions around thepond. Islands constructed within the pond can providespecial opportunities to create safe, well-vegetatedresting places for wildlife. Plants like Swamp timothycan be important food sources and water-loving plantslike Spikerush and Cattail are important emergentvegetation for nesting or brood habitat. Ideally, the rightcombination of plants can be selected to be self-sustaining for minimal maintenance costs. A ResourceConservation District, public or private conservationorganization, or native plant nursery can provide helpfulinput on plant selection.

MaintenanceMost ponds, if constructed according to design

criteria, should be maintenance-free. Initially, when thepond is new, the levee (dam) could settle and earthenspillways could erode, so repairs may be needed. Ifthe pond regularly catches silt or has excessiveunwanted plant growth, occasional cleaning may benecessary. If erosion above the pond is expected, asilt-trap could be important to include in the pond designto reduce the need for dredging of the pond itself.

Hillside ponds can provide a series of benefits tolandowners and non-landowners alike. Numerouswater catchments above the valley floor can slow downstorm flows, provide food and water sources forlivestock and wildlife, and improve the overallappearance of the local landscape.

HILL PONDS FOR LANDOWNER AND WILDLIFE BENEFITS



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PROBLEM:Our current stream channel management

techniques in Yolo County have left us with mostlynarrow, thinly vegetated streams that house littlewildlife and are unable to carry the high flows of winterstorms. The bare, eroding banks serve as excellentsubstrate for noxious weeds such as Yellow starthistle,Giant reed, and Peppercress, and allow tons of sedimentto be carried away downstream only to clog channelsor be deposited on adjacent fields. Standard wintermaintenance efforts of excavating silt and weeds onlyperpetuate the problem by leaving the banks bare againfor further erosion and weed establishment.

SOLUTION:One solution to the problem of constant

maintenance and degradation of our streams is toreintroduce some of the original natural bank structureand plant systems. The original native riparian plantspecies that once populated these streams can bereintroduced to serve multiple functions of stream bankstabilization, weed suppression and wildlife habitat. Re-grading banks to a more natural benched slope (seediagram) increases the flood capacity of the streamwhile making room for vegetation and wildlife.Depending on each individual situation, such channelre-sloping may or may not be necessary. Mostlandowners will find that “pulling back the levee” forsuch a project is only necessary on one side of achannel, minimizing the amount of land that would betaken out of production and leaving one side accessiblefor channel maintenance. If land adjacent to a streamis marginal, often flooded, or difficult to farm, such achannel alteration may have little impact on farmincome (beyond installation and maintenanceexpenses). The rest of this article gives a briefdescription of some of the steps required to enhance astretch of slough on your property.

Ideally, any stream restoration project should bepart of a coordinated effort along the entire stream orwatershed. The California Department of Fish & Gameis now required to include an environmental reviewunder CEQA (the California Environmental Quality

Act) as part of the Streambed Alteration Permitprocess (see below). Cost-sharing opportunities existfor riparian improvement projects through the NaturalResources Conservation Service (NRCS), CDFG, andthe California Wildlife Conservation Board (see CostSharing article later in this publication). The fundingfrom different sources can be combined and increased,especially when multiple landowners cooperate on aproject. The last chapter of this book is a list oflandscape contractors and environmental consultantswho can assist you with planning or implementing thiskind of project.

PermitsDepending on the scale of your project, you will

need to consult with different natural resourcesagencies to do the job with minimal negativeenvironmental impact. This is the step that most growersdread, but it is not necessarily the ordeal it is made outto be. A good first step is to start with your localResource Conservation District (RCD) and CountyPlanning Department for some basic direction. Permit-wise, the first agency to consult is the CDFG. Thelocal game warden for the CDFG can make a sitevisit to help you determine what environmental reviewpermits you might need other than a StreambedAlteration Agreement ($132 for small projects). Ifyou intend to leave any disturbed earth or gravel withinthe stream channel or banks, you should apply for aNationwide Permit (no cost, one month process) fromthe Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE). TheirNationwide Permits are pre-approved and involve littlepaperwork. As part of that permit you will also haveto contact the California State Water ResourceControl Board (SWRCB) for a water qualitypermit ($500).

Breaking GroundOnce you have determined your project location,

scope of work, and have dealt with the appropriateagencies, you’re ready to break ground. The ideal timefor such work in Yolo County is from late summerthrough September, when most ephemeral streams have

Riparian Enhancement on SloughsPaul Robins, Yolo County RCD


dried down enough that you don’t have to worry aboutequipment getting stuck. If your project includesreshaping the stream channel, an engineer or landscapearchitect can help you in determining how best tobalance your cutting and filling work. For any permit-approved project, the NRCS provides this service freeof charge. (If you have watched the stream in questionover a number of years, you are probably aware of its“Ordinary High Water Line” (how high the water getsin an average year after a winter storm). If you canlimit your earthwork to the bank above this line, youwill decrease your chances for needing an ACOE orSWRCB permit.) You can improve the likelihood ofrevegetation success if you stockpile your topsoilduring earthmoving and replace it as the top layer ofsoil when filling and shaping. The soil in the lower soilhorizons may have good texture, but it is poor innutrients and organic matter, which will be vital to thesuccess of your revegetation effort.

Why reshape the channel? The primary reasonsfor channel shaping are to increase the flood capacityof the stream and make planting and maintenancework easier. Streams in lowlands typically develop achannel form that is stepped, consisting of a small,incised, low-flow channel that carries year-round flowand a broader high-flow channel (or flood plain) thatcarries storm flows. The earth (spoils) that is removedin creating a high-flow channel can be used to build upthe levee along the stream to further protect adjacent

land from flooding.

VegetationVegetation of the

site is key to aproject’s long-termsuccess. A successfulrevegetation effortwill stabilize your newbanks and suppressnoxious weeds.Riparian plantsystems may bemore complex thanthose in traditionalagriculture, but any

farmer should be able to manage them easily. Allvegetation should be selected to match the soil and

hydrologic conditions of the site—i.e., light or heavysoils, alkalinity, and proximity to the water table. Theexisting plants near the site are a good indication ofwhat grows best there. The RCD and local NRCScan assist you in developing an appropriate plant listfor your site.

Establishing groundcover vegetation for bankstabilization and weed control is an essential aspect ofrevegetation. Ground cover vegetation includes nativegrasses, sedges, and rushes that can be planted eitherby direct seeding or plugs. These plants will require“farming” for their first 2-3 years to aid theirestablishment, during which weed control isessential. Herbicides, mowing, grazing, and fire areall useful weed management tools. An earlier articlein this book offers specific information on perennialgrasses establishment.

There are many native, riparian trees, shrubs andforbs that can be included in a riparian enhancementproject to increase biodiversity and habitat value. Thesecan be propagated either from cuttings, seeds, or starts.Native plant nurseries and most RCDs have lists andinformation about them available to the public. Manyof these plants need some protection from herbivoryand weed competition, for which tree shelters, weedmats, manual weeding, and careful herbicide applicationare useful tools. A short list of recommended nativeplants is attached to this article.

Planting ZonesAs illustrated in the accompanying diagram, planting

should be made in zones to facilitate water movementand maintenance access, and to ensure plantingsuccess. Four basic zones are briefly described below,moving from the stream channel up to the bank top.

Bank of Low-Flow Channel - Plants that aretolerant of saturated soils and frequent inundation suchas Spikerush, Baltic rush, Alkali bulrush, Slender sedge,Barber sedge, and Creeping wildrye are best in thiszone. These plants have an important role in bankstabilization and are the hardest hit by stream flow.Their low profile and ability to fold over minimizerestriction of water flow. A number of shrubs and treescan tolerate these conditions to a degree, but placednear the center of the stream channel, they wouldrepresent a real reduction in channel flood capacity.

RIPARIAN ENHANCEMENT ON SLOUGHSIll

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Toyon leaf and flower


MulchesImmediate bank stabilization and weed suppression

is aided by the use of mulches and mulching fabrics,which reduce the exposure of soil to moving water butallow plants to grow through them. Loose straw andwood chip mulches are common mulching materials,but typically only an anchored fabric would hold upagainst a consistent stream or sheet flow of water.There are many mulching fabrics available that canwithstand various intensities of flow, consisting ofmaterials from woven straw to geotextiles. Theserequire careful anchoring to be effective and are notrecommended for streams with high flows. In situationswith highly erosive flows, special armoring withbioengineering structures such as willow mattressesor siltation baffles that incorporate willow stakes andquarried rock may be necessary.

Proper stream channel habitat and flowimprovements require thoughtful planning, but yieldvery satisfying results in terms of aesthetics, floodcontrol, animal visitation and maintenance reduction.Although the task may appear overwhelming, yourlocal RCD and NRCS field offices have skills tosupport you in your effort. They can also providedirection in dealing with other agencies and contractors.

Agency Contacts for the Yolo County RegionCalifornia Department of Fish & Game

Gary HobgoodRegion 2 - 1701 Nimbus Road, Suite A

Rancho Cordova, CA 95670tel: 916.983.5162

US Army Corps of EngineersJason Cutler

Regulatory Branch, Sacramento District1325 J Street

Sacramento, CA 95814-2922tel: 916.557.5258

State Water Resources Control BoardCentral Valley Region

3443 Routier Road, Suite ASacramento, CA 95827-3098

tel: 916.255.3000

High-Flow Channel or Flood Plain - Naturally-occurring stream benches are typically inundated onlyduring high flows following winter storms when thestream spills over its low-flow channel. During the restof the year, this portion of the channel typically remainsdry. To facilitate storm flows, plantings in this zoneshould be of low stature. Candidate plantings are anymoisture-tolerant perennial grasses (e.g., Meadowbarley, Creeping wildrye, and Slender wheatgrass) orlow-growing shrubs such as Wild rose and Poison oak.(Note: for property owners concerned abouttrespassers, brambles and Poison oak look better thana fence and work as well or better.) This zone canalso host a two-tire access road for maintenance andshould be configured to accommodate equipment thelandowner envisions using in the future.

Bank of High-Flow Channel - For soilstabilization and ground cover, this zone should beseeded with perennial grasses similarly tolerant ofseasonal flooding. This is the best site for flood-toleranttrees and shrubs such as willows, Cottonwood, Mulefat,Box elder, Valley oak, Black walnut, Californiasycamore, brambles, and vines. If flood capacity is aconcern, the shrubby plantings can be kept higher onthe bank. Trees provide valuable weed suppressionby shading, and with some training, their trunks provideminimal water flow restriction. The extensive roots ofshrub and tree plantings fortify the stability of the bankand levee.

Levee - The top andfield-side portion of thelevee are appropriatesites for planting shrubsand grasses that are lesstolerant of inundation,such as Toyon, Redbud,Elderberry, Blue wildrye,Purple needlegrass, and Onion grass. Many plants couldbe included in this mix that might provide insectarybenefits to the adjacent fields as well. Many farmersuse the top of their stream levee as a field accessroad, which need not be left bare of vegetation. Roadscan be maintained with low-stature perennial grassesdown their middles and sides, though an extra passwith a mower may be needed in the summer.

RIPARIAN ENHANCEMENT ON SLOUGHS

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Toyon plant


Plant List for “Riparian” Hedgerows

The following is a list of possible plants for hedgerow designs in riparian-type situations. Abundant water is aprerequisite for establishment and normal growth. The plant’s proximity to standing water should vary fromspecies to species (e.g., locate most trees higher on slopes than shrubs). One should consult a planner forappropriate planting schemes. The notes provide information to help determine planting combinations that allowindividual species appropriate sunlight and adequate space. General growth habits may also be included. Hedgerowscomprised of a mix of trees and shrubs are generally long-lived. Trees are typically longer-lived than shrubs.Many shrubs, however, can have life spans of more than 15-20 years. All of these plants require summerirrigation during their establishment period.

Trees (Deciduous)

common name scientific name notesBox elder Acer negundo fast-growing to 40-60’ - tolerates full sun or partial shade

Black walnut Juglans califonrica var. hindsii single trunk, broad crown, 45-75’ - needs full sun

California sycamore Platanus racemosa multiple trunk, fast-growing to 50-100’ - needs full sun

Fremont cottonwood Populus fremontii fast-growing to 40-60’ - needs full sun

Valley oak Quercus lobata 60-80’ and wide, grows up to 3’/year - needs full sun

Red willow Salix laevigata 20-40’ tall - needs full sun

Gooding’s black willow Salix gooddingii 20-30’ tall - needs full sun

Trees (Evergreen)

common name scientific name notesCoast live oak Quercus agrifolia dense foliage 30-60’ and wide, grows up to 25’ in 10 years

- needs full sun

The attached list of native species is for general information only. The Natural Resource Conservation Servicedoes not imply or consent to the use of this information as a recommendation for species selection. Plantestablishment is not implied. Varying environmental and human factors such as soil type, climate, topography,weed management, and watering regime will invariably affect the establishment of these plants.

Small Trees / Tall Shrubs (Deciduous)

common name scientific name notesQuail bush Atriplex lentiformis densely branched, sometimes spiny, 3-10’ tall, 6-12’ wide -

needs full sun and should be planted in areas isolatedfrom sugarbeet production

Brewer saltbush Atriplex lentiformis ssp. breweri almost evergreen, denser form than quail bush, 5-7’ tall, 6-12’ wide - needs full sun and should be planted in areasisolated from sugarbeet production

Buttonwillow Cephalanthus occidentalis grows to 3-12’ and is found along streambanks - toleratesfull sun to partial shade

California blackberry Rubus vitifolius mounding vine or shrub to 20’

Blue elderberry Sambucus caerulea mounding shrub or spreading tree growing 15-20’ andwide - tolerates full sun or partial shade




Small Trees / Tall Shrubs (Evergreen)

common name scientific name notesToyon Heteromeles arbutifolia dense shrub or multi-trunk dome tree, 15-25’ and wide -

grows in full sun or partial shade and should beplanted high on slope or drier sites; an uncommonplant in riparian forests

Coyote brush Baccharis pilularis dense, many-branched, grows 4-8’ tall and spreads to morethan 6’ - needs full sun and should be planted high onslope or drier sites

Mule fat Baccharis viminea erect, willow-like shrub, 6-12’ tall and 4-6’ wide

Small Shrubs / Ground Cover

common name scientific name notesCoyote brush Baccharis pilularis, compact form dense evergreen, grows 12-18’ with 5-6’ spread - needs full

sun and should be planted high on slopes or drier sites

California wild rose Rosa californica deciduous, grows to 6’ - tolerates sun or shade

Mule fat Baccharis viminea erect, willow-like shrub, 6-12’ tall and 4-6’ wide

Grass / Sedge (Plugs)

common name scientific name notesSanta Barbara sedge Carex barbarae grows to 3’ - tolerates full sun to partial shade

Creeping wild rye Leymus triticoides cool season grass with blades 2’ high and stems reaching3’ in summer, spreads by rhizomes - tolerates full sun tolight shade

Deer grass Muhlenbergia rigens warm season perennial forming dense clumps from thebase, grows 24-30’ tall - tolerates full sun to light shade

Grass (seed mixes should total 15-20 pounds if drilled or 25-30 pounds broadcast)

common name scientific name notesPurple needls grass Nasella pulchra cool season bunchgrass, 1-2’ flower stalks to 30” in spring

Blue wild rye Elymus glaucus cool season perennial bunchgrass, 2-3’ and estab-lishes rapidly

Meadow barley Hordeum brachyantherum tufted, perennial bunchgrass, 1’ tall and 8” wide

California brome Bramus carinatus cool season, perennial bunchgrass

Yolo slender wheatgrass Elymus trachycaulus cool season, perennial bunchgrass 18”-4’ - tolerates fullsun to light shade





Slough Vegetation and Channel Enhancement Costs (1999)for 1/4 mile of stream, 20' on one side only

Task Cost/Unit in dollars Units Total Cost in dollarsPlanning 50.00 20 hours 1,000.00Grading with excavator 80.00 50 hours 4,000.00Bed preparation:Harrowing 35.00 3 hours 105.00Spraying fall weeds (with ATV rig) 25.00 1 hours 25.00Spraying material (Rodeo) 140.00 0.25 gallons 35.00

Seeding:Grass seed (25 lb./ac.) 22.00 25 pounds 550.00Labor (on ATV w/ seeder and harrow) 25.00 3 hours 75.00

Plug Transplanting:Plants (variable) 400.00Labor (8 people @ 8 hours) 10.00 64 hours 640.00Cane Cutting and Planting 10.00 18 hours 180.00Tree tube protectors 1.15 175 piece 201.25Tree tube installation 10.00 5 hours 50.00

Irrigation Installation (drip option):Labor 10.00 25 hours 250.00Drip irrig. materials 200.00Portable pump 500.00

First Year Weed Control:Spot spraying (Round-up & Garlon) 10.00 4 hours 40.00Material 90.00 0.25 gallon 22.50Mowing 40.00 1 hour 40.00Hoeing 10.00 12 hours 120.00Installation Cost $8,433.75

Annual Maintenance Costs (first several years until establishment):Mowing 40.00 2 hours 80.00Spot spraying (2 x 2 hours) 20.00 4 hours 80.00Material 45.00Hoeing 10.00 16 hours 160.00Irrigation (pumping cost) 0.67 312 hours 209.04includes amortization of pump and fuel (1 gal/3 hrs. @ 6 hrs/week x 52 weeks/yr.)Total annual maintenance costs $574.04Over three years $1,722.12

Total cost of project $10,155.87Average annual cost over 20 years $507.80



Working irrigation canal banks provide an excellentsetting for perennial native plants to support a rich,biodiverse system with multiple benefits. Surveys ofundamaged banks on vegetated western streamsprovide living models that healthy irrigation banksdecrease erosion and water problems while functioningas efficient water transport systems. The goals ofnative bank vegetation systems include the following:suppress weed invasion and thus reduce herbicide use;minimize soil erosion, thus reducing maintenance;support water quality as vegetation filters excessnutrients; and simultaneously enhance biologicaldiversity and aesthetics.

If possible, the slope to be planted should beregraded to no steeper than a 3:1 slope to ease plantingand maintenance. If the bank can be seeded, the seedbed should be prepared with a harrow or disk prior toplanting. A typical canal bank planting involves seedingin the dry zone and upper high moist soil zones andcoming in later with plugs to plant the water line andlow, moist soil zones.

Weed control is especially challenging on canalbanks with constant summer moisture and a regularinflux of weed seed from upstream. At least one prioryear of complete weed suppression (no seed produced)is recommended before planting a site, and vigilantweed suppression during the first year after planting iscrucial for successful establishment.

Selected Irrigation Canal Vegetation for Seasonal Summer SystemsJohn Anderson, Hedgerow Farms

The list below of recommended plants is intendedfor consideration and choice, not solve all problems:the idea is to initiate innovation and experimentationon specific sites. In fact, there are plant characteristicsnot included here that may well bear on plant choice:for example, dormancy, soil preference, height orvegetation volume (biomass), root structure, herbicidetolerance, etc. It is important to note that we have hadparticular success with Creeping wildrye in many canalbank situations. Its tolerance of summer moisture andits rhizomatous growth form provide very effectivecompetition with and suppression of typical weeds.

Four distinct zones have been defined to delineatethe planting scheme, as illustrated on the following page.

Low-statured native plants add beauty and stability to a YoloCounty canal

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SELECTED IRRIGATION CANAL VEGETATION FOR SEASONAL SUMMER SYSTEMS

Water Line ZoneThis zone is submerged or very wet much of the time during the irrigation season. Here, Cattails (Typha

spp.) will try to grow in unmanaged systems. Recent experimentation with Baltic rush offer encouragingresults since they withstand fluctuating water levels and go dormant in dry, dewatered conditions. ThoughBaltic rush forms a dense mat of weed suppressing vegetation, its small vertical growing stems do notsignificantly obstruct water flow.

Common name Scientific name Planting methodCommon spikerush Eleocharis macrostachya TransplantsAlkali bulrush Scirpus americanus Transplants/SeedBaltic rush Juncus balticus TransplantsThree-square bulrush Scirpus americanus Transplants

Notes:• Other species of Eleocharis should also be considered.• In fluctuating water systems, creeping species may inhabit up to three zones depending on the water level.

Low, Moist Soil ZoneThis zone is moist during the irrigation season and would be typical of a wet meadow or perennial stream dry

edge. Left unmanaged, this zone becomes inundated with Watergrass, Barnyardgrass, Sprangle top, Jointgrass,nut sedge and other undesirable weeds. Spike rush would extend into this zone.

Common name Scientific name Planting methodBent grass Agrostis exarata SeedTufted hairgrass Deschampsia caespitosa SeedBaltic rush Juncus balticus TransplantsFlatbladed Rush Juncus xiphioides TransplantsAlkali bulrush Scirpus americanus Transplants/SeedThree-square bulrush Scirpus americanus TransplantsClustered field sedge Carex praegracilis TransplantsYerba manza Anemopsis californica Transplants

Canal planting zones



High, Moist Soil ZoneSimilar to the low zone, but drier, this zone accommodates the following:

Common name Scientific name Planting methodBaltic rush Juncus balticus TransplantsBarbar’s sedge Carex barbarae TransplantsClustered field sedge Carex praegracilis TransplantsMolate fescue Festuca rubra var. molate SeedCreeping wildrye Leymus triticoides Seed/TransplantsAlkali sacaton Sporobolus airoides SeedDeergrass Muhlenbergia rigens TransplantsSalt grass Distichlis spicata Rhizomes

Dry ZoneThis zone is dry during the summer. The deep rooted plants in this zone will frequently have access to summer

water from the canal especially on better soils and low berms.

Common name Scientific name Planting methodSalt grass Distichlis spicata TransplantsCreeping wildrye Leymus triticoides Seed/TransplantsPurple needlegrass Nassella pulchra SeedNodding needlegrass Nassella cernua SeedBlue wildrye Elymus glaucus SeedYolo slender wheatgrass Elymus trachycaulus majus SeedCalifornia brome Bromus carinatus SeedCalifornia barley Hordeum californicum SeedMeadow barley Hordeum brachyantherum SeedThree-awn Aristida hamulosa SeedPine bluegrass Poa secunda SeedIdaho fescue Festuca idahoensis SeedCalifornia oniongrass Melica californica Seed



Typical Costs for Vegetating Canal Banks (1999)for one mile of canal, both sides (approx. 1.7 ac.)

Task Cost/Unit in $ Units Total Cost in $Low High Low High Low High

Installation CostsSloping edges back 70.00 70.00 5 10 hours 350.00 700.00

Fall Seeding:Seed @ 25 lb./ac. over 1.7 ac. 15.00 30.00 34 42.5 pounds 510.00 1,275.00Bed preparation (Tractor /harrow) 30.00 30.00 4 8 hours 120.00 240.00Broadcast seed (“Bellygrinder”) 10.00 10.00 2 4 hours 20.00 40.00Harrowing in 25.00 35.00 1 2 hour 25.00 70.00

Winter/Spring planting:Spikerush/Sedge (1-2 pl./2') 0.20 0.40 5280 10560 plugs 1,056.00 4,224.00Planting labor (@ 100 pl./hr.) 10.00 10.00 53 106 hours 530.00 1,060.00

Weed control:Fall Rodeo pre-seeding (10 oz./ac.) 150.00 150.00 0.31 0.31 gallon 46.50 46.50Labor 25.00 25.00 1 1 hour 25.00 25.00Spring Rodeo 140.00 140.00 .017 .0675 gallon 2.38 9.45(spot treat after canal full)Labor 10.00 10.00 1 4 hours 10.00 40.00Broadleaf spray before plugging 10.00 10.00 0 1.7 acres 17.00Total Installation Costs $2,694.88 $7,746.95

Annual Maintenance CostsSpot-spray w/ Rodeo (1-2X) 25.00 25.00 2 16 hours 50.00 400.00Rodeo material 140.00 140.00 .035 .25 gallon 4.90 35.00Mowing 25.00 25.00 3.5 3.5 hours 87.50 87.50and/or Burning (5 people x 2 hours) 10.00 10.00 0 10 hours 100.00and/or Hoeing crew (2-8 hrs, 0-2X) 10.00 10.00 0 16 hours 160.00and Willow cleaning (1/3 yrs.) 50.00 50.00 0 0.6 acres 30.00and Slump repair 200.00 500.00 0 2 slumps 1,000.00Total Annual Maintenance Costs $142.40 $1.812.50

Total Cost over 10 Years Including Maintenance $4,118.88 $25,871.95

Average Annual Cost over 10 years $411.89 $2,587.20


Earthen levees and dikes border thousands of milesof rivers, canals, and drainage systems throughoutCalifornia’s Central Valley. Vegetation managementon these structures typically consists of costly spraying,disking, and burning to prevent any vegetation fromestablishing. Where vegetation is allowed to grow onlevees and dikes, it generally becomes dominated byannual weedy species.

Native perennial grasses, sedges, and rushes as wellas associated forb species have potential value forrevegetating and managing levees. An established standwill keep out unwanted weeds while stabilizing banksand slopes with deep penetrating root systems. Anumber of levee revegetation projects have beeninitiated in California, but few have been reported andall are in the early stages of development.

This is a preliminary report on a ten acrerevegetation project on a medium size levee (tenfeet high) in Yolo County. The project is a joint effortbetween Rominger Brothers Farming andHedgerow Farms. After three years, we areobserving some very encouraging trends invegetation establishment.

The Revegetation ProcessThe levee, located north of Woodland on County

Road 99E, abuts 250 acres of rice production on oneside and a large drainage canal on the other. Historicmanagement of the levee and perimeter field bermsconsisted of annual disking and application of herbicidesto control weeds. Typical levee weeds include Foxtailbarley (Hordeum jubatum), Wild oats (Avena fatua),Ripgut brome (Bromus diandrus), Annual rye grass(Lolium multiflorum), Yellow starthistle (Centaureasolstitialis), Short-pod mustard (Hirschfeldiaincana), Prickly lettuce (Lactuca cerriola), Indiansweetclover (Melilotus indica), and others.

Fortunately for us, this historic “clean farming”provided a planting site with a relatively low weed seedbank. Following spring and summer disking, we seededthe site in the fall of 1994 with a 10 ft. Truax drill runlengthwise along the levee. The slope is relatively

gentle (5 to 1), and was therefore not a problem forthe tractor or drill. The soil type of the surroundingfarmland, from which it is presumed the levee wasconstructed, consists of Sacramento clay, Capay siltyclay, and a small area of Sycamore silty clay loam.

We used different seeding mixes on the upper andlower portions of the levee, reflecting the moisturegradient. The lower area, in addition to being moremoist, was also subject to inundation during the floodingof 1996 and 1997. The species content andapproximate seeding rates of the two mixes are listedin the accompanying tables. We sprayed 2-4 D in thesprings of 1995 and 1996 to control broadleaf weedsduring establishment.

Preliminary ResultsWe first evaluated the site in May of 1997, three-

and-one-half years after seeding. Evaluations to datehave been subjective observations without formaldata collection, but vegetation trends are readilyapparent. The grass establishment is excellent; allspecies that were seeded are present at leastsomewhere on the levee.

We have observed four distinct zones ofestablishment (see illustration). Zone 1, adjacent to therice crop, was subject to prolonged flooding in 1995and 1996. Zone 2, midway up the slope was subject to

Levee Revegetation With Native Grasses (1998)John Anderson, Hedgerow Farms & Rick Rominger, Rominger Brothers Farming

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Stand of Creeping wildrye at the base of a Yolo County levee


short duration flooding. Zone 3 represents the upperportion of the levee. It does not flood and becomesquite dry during the summer. Finally, Zone 4 is thesteeper south-facing dry slope adjacent to the slough.The lower portion of this slope experienced erosionduring the high water in 1995.

Creeping wildrye, the Rio variety, was seededat less than one pound per acre (due to low seedavailability), but there are very healthy patches ofit scattered in all four zones. Meadow barleydominates Zone 1, along with patches of Creepingwildrye. In the intermediate flood area (Zone 2),Blue wildrye and Yolo Slender wheatgrass are wellrepresented. The upper xeric portion of the levee isdominated by Purple and Nodding needlegrass, bothof which are already producing substantial quantitiesof seed. Blue wildrye is also doing well in this zone. Inthe eroded areas of Zone 4, plants are now establishingfrom the seed of adjacent upslope (Zone 3) plants.

Weeds in 1997 were sparse and consisted of isolatedpatches of mustard, Prickly lettuce, and Yellowstarthistle (we did not use any broadleaf herbicide inthat growing season). Foxtail barley, Annual ryegrass,and Ripgut brome were found along the levee roadedges. The native forb spikeweed (Hemizoniapungens) was prevalent on the lower slopes.

Additional tasks could have been performed,including a prescribed spring burn to kill weed speciesgerminating, a prescribed spring burn to kill weedspecies before seed maturation, and seeding additionaldesirable forbs such as Lotus purshianus, Trifoliumtridentatum, Trifolium fucatum, Eschscholziacalifornica, and Lupinus succulenti.

Other native species appropriate for Zones 1 and 2and other wet edge areas along levees are the sedgesand rushes. Once established, they can keep out theunwanted aquatic edge weeds while providing bankprotection and wildlife habitat. Species such as Carexbarbarae, C. praegracilis, Juncus balticus, J.xiphioides, J. effusis and Eleocharis macrostachyaare being used increasingly and commercial seed andtransplant sources are becoming available.

In summary, native perennial grasses now dominatethe site. Based on other sites we have watched overthe past eight years, the long term success of this projectappears to be certain.

LEVEE REVEGETATION WITH NATIVE GRASSES

The benefits of the revegetation, however, gobeyond the successful establishment of nativespecies. Of particular interest to the landowner andthe neighboring farmers is the fact that there wasno erosion during the flood events of 1997. In addition,essentially no management was performed over the96-97 growing season and yet there are very fewweeds. The levee is aesthetically pleasing to look at,pleasant to walk in, and it provides good habitat forwildlife. Furthermore, the site exhibits no evidence ofincreased ground squirrel activity, an important leveemanagement concern.

The Road AheadThe practice of using natives to restore disturbed

landscapes is a relatively new art and the informationneeds are great. Projects such as the one describedhere need to be monitored for at least 8-10 years todocument sustainability and vegetation changes. Weneed to consider the effects of different soils, slopes,hydrology, and management regimes to determinewhich species will persist and self-propagate over time.We also need to document the use of revegetatedareas by wildlife, including ground nesting birds, rodents,reptiles, and insects in order to demonstrate the valueof this approach. Equally important is the developmentof cost-effective management techniques that meetthe functional requirements of the structure. Mowing,burning, selective herbicides, and even grazing will allbe part of the program.

It is going to require considerable effort tochange the current management techniques. Whilesuccessful projects such as this one help promotethe benefits of revegetation using natives, we needmore vegetation managers in the field. Managersneed training in the appropriate plants to use on agiven site, the techniques to get the plantsestablished, and methods to control weeds duringthe establishment period and beyond. Workshopsand field days offered by the Yolo County ResourceConservation District go a long way towards fillingthis training need.


Suggested upper levee (xeric) seeding mix

Species Common Name live seeds/lb. Rate(approx.) (lb./acre)

Nassella pulchra Purple Needlegrass 50,000 8Nassella cernua Nodding Needlegrass 100,000 6Elymus glaucus Blue Wildrye 110,000 8Leymus triticoides Creeping Wildrye 99,000 <3

Suggested lower levee (mesic) seeding mix

Species Common Name live seeds/lb. Rate(approx.) (lb./acre)

Elymus glaucus Blue Wildrye 110,000 7Elymus trachycaulus majus Yolo Slender Wheatgrass 65,000 6Leymus triticoides Creeping Wildrye 99,000 <3Hordeum brachyantherum Meadow Barley 60,000 8

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The common barn owl (Tyto alba) is the mostwidely distributed land bird in the world (Bunn et al.1982). It is often called the most beneficial bird in theworld because of its hearty appetite for voles, gophers,mice, and rats. Several farmers have observed thatgopher populations are substantially reduced whensufficient barn owl nesting sites are present on thefarm. Unfortunately, little or no long-term research hasbeen conducted to document the effect that installationof nest boxes has on rodent populations.

Barn owls usually swallow their prey whole andlater regurgitate large pellets (usually one to two perday) containing undigested bones, teeth, and fur. Skullsfound in these pellets can be keyed out to determinethe identity of the prey species. The prey species takenmost often are California meadow voles, pocketgophers, white-footed mice, and pocket mice (Ingels1995). A recent prey study conducted near Lodi foundthat both pocket gophers and meadow voles were foundin nearly half the pellets collected. Voles were eatenmost often during the winter, whereas gophers wereeaten most often during the spring and summer. Mostof the gophers eaten were juveniles, and each nestingpair ate just under a gopher a day during the nestingseason, in addition to the other rodents caught.

Barn owls naturally nest and roost in barns, silos,haystacks in barns, tree cavities, stream bank holes,and palm trees. Nests in haystacks are often destroyedwhen hay is removed and those in palm trees areproblematic, since the young owls often fall to theground during heavy winds. Barn owls will readily takeup residence in nest boxes provided by farmers.Although some advise that barn owl boxes should beinstalled at one box per ten acres, there exists noscientific basis for this or any other ratio.

The distance a barn owl will fly to hunt depends onthe availability of prey. Depending on the availabilityof food locally, barn owls often fly 1-2 miles or moreto hunt each night, and may fly up to 3.5 miles (Colvin1986). In a 1947 study in Davis, California, researchersdetermined that a single barn owl hunted over an areaof only 165 acres (Evans and Emlen 1947).

Attracting Barn Owls to FarmsChuck Ingels, UC Cooperative Extension, Sacramento, CA

Nest Box Construction and InstallationBarn owls are cavity dwellers; they do not build

nests. They will readily nest in sheltered structureslarger than about 1-1½ ft. in diameter. Nest boxes canbe built from on-farm materials, such as barrels (seeKetner reference), beehives, and raisin sweat boxes.Nest boxes can also be constructed from plywood.Below are some design and installation suggestionsand a sample plan for building and installing barn owlnest boxes:

• Build the box at least 12 in. wide by 16 in. long by16 in. tall; even larger spaces are more conduciveto the production of large broods.

• Use ½ in. plywood and use 1½ in. galvanized nailsand wood glue to attach sides; alternatively, usedacronized screws and 2 in. x 2 in. framing boardswhere the sides join.

• Make the entrance hole 4 in. wide and locate itnear the edge of the widest side rather than inthe middle.

• Provide a hinged door for removing old beddingand pellets.

• Paint the box exterior to protect the wood. Usetwo coats initially and repaint every few years.

• Install the box at least 12-15 ft. high, but lowenough to allow easy access for cleaning.

• Provide a 1 in. thick layer of nesting material, suchas wood shavings or small wood chips, to preventeggs from rolling. In the fall of each year, removethe old nesting material and add new material.

• Provide protection from predators. One methodis to wrap a 2 ft. section of thin sheet metal aroundthe tree trunk or post. Predators are usually unableto gain access if the box is centered on top of thepost or if a metal pipe is used as the post. Problem


predators, which will eat eggs or young owls,include tree squirrels, opossums, and raccoons.

Signs that owls have inhabited the boxes includewhite excrement (“whitewash”) below the entrancehole, pellets on the ground below the box, andscreeching and clicking sounds made by the owls—aswell as the owls themselves—near the box at night. Itis best to avoid disturbing the nest, especially wheneggs are present, since this may cause them to abandonthe nest. This period is usually about late Februarythrough March for the first brood, although eggs havebeen found in nests during most months of the yearexcept late fall/early winter.

ATTRACTING BARN OWLS TO FARMS

Barn owl nest box on pole showing shade baffles and cleanoutdoor. Note lack of “perch” in front of entrance. Barn owlsdo not necessarily need a perch, but Great Horned Owlscan use one to prey on owlets in the box.

Cutting plan for 1/2-inch CDX plywood sheet (dimensions in inches). This makes a small box. For a larger one: cut front andback 24 x 24; floor 15 x 23; roof 16 x 24.

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Barn owls usually begin looking for nesting sites inearly January, so it may take many months before theyshow any interest. Also, they often use the box fornesting only, abandoning it during the summer and fallin favor of a tree or barn roost. If you have installedseveral boxes, it may take one or two years beforethey are all inhabited. Also, nest boxes may beabandoned as a result of the high mortality rate of barnowls. Fifty percent or more of all barn owls may die intheir first year and collisions with vehicles are usuallythe main cause of death. If the box(es) have not beenoccupied for up to two years, try using a different boxdesign and/or a different location.


For more information, contact:Chuck Ingels

Farm Advisor - Pomology, Viticulture, and Environmental HorticultureUC Cooperative Extension4145 Branch Center Road

Sacramento, CA 95827-3898

tel: 916.875.6913fax: 916.875.6233

e-mail: [email protected]

ReferencesBunn, D.S., A.B. Warburton, and R.D.S. Wilson. 1982. The Barn Owl. Buteo Books, South Dakota. p. 264.

Colvin, B.A. 1986. “Barn owls: Their secrets and habits.” Illinois Audubon, No. 216, Spring 1986.

Evans, F.C. and J.T. Emlen, Jr. 1947. “Ecological notes on the prey selected by a barn owl.” The Condor49:3-9.

Ingels, C. 1995. “Summary of California studies analyzing the diet of barn owls.” Sustainable Agriculture7(2):14-16.

Ketner, V.J. “Barn Owls: How to Build Nest Boxes from Off-the-Shelf Materials.” 169 Via Baja, Ventura, CA93003.

Lodi District Grape Growers Association. “Using Barn Owls for Rodent Control in Orchards and Vineyards.”Two-page pamphlet. PO Box 2004, Lodi, CA 95241-2004; 209.339.8246.

ATTRACTING BARN OWLS TO FARMS



Wood duck

American Kestrel

Barn Owl

Hairy woodpecker

Common flicker

Ash-throated flycatcher

Tree swallow

Violet-green swallow

Mountain chickadee

Plain titmouse

White-breasted nuthatch

Bewick’s wren

House wren

Western bluebird

Potential Bird Box Nesting Species in the Sacramento Valley

For information and designs for bird box construction, contact your local chapter of the National Audubon Society or:

National Audubon SocietyWestern Regional Office

555 Audubon PlaceSacramento, CA 95825

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Barn owl with chicks

Western bluebird

Male wood duck and box

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Beneficial insects include parasites and predators.Parasites are usually more restricted as to whichinsects they will attack. Some predators may befairly specialized, as well, but many aregeneralists—feeding opportunistically on variousinsects and mites. Generalist predators may beespecially important in field and vegetable crops,because they can persist in the absence of pests,may arrive in the crop first, and may act to preemptor slow down pest outbreaks. Some importantbeneficial insects have special plant associations.

Bigeyed Bugs (Geocoris spp., Lygaeidae)are opportunisticpredators on a widerange of insects andmites. They will alsofeed on nectar. They areespecially importantfrom May to mid Julywhen they arecommonly found on melon, okra, pepper, and squashplants. These predators can be abundant in stands ofcommon knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) along fieldmargins. They can also build up in cool-season covercrops, like berseem clover (Trifolium alexandrium),and subterranean clovers, (Trifoliumsubterraneum), and disperse to adjoining vegetablecrops when the clovers die in early summer.

Hoverflies (Syrphidae) often resemble stingingwasps or bees. Many are important predators of aphids.Adult hoverflies are principally flower visitors, feedingon nectar and pollen. The larvae are maggots, and

these attack aphids.Wind shelter is veryimportant to syrphids.Nectar is probablyimportant as an“energy food” tosustain the hoverflies.Dietary pollen is

Beneficial Insects and their Associations with Trees, Shrubs,Cover Crops, and Weeds

from “Farming With Insectary Plants” by Robert L. Bugg,Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Programall photographs by Jack Kelly Clark, University of California, unless otherwise noted

important for reproduction. Flowering buckwheat(Fagopyrum esculentum), commonly used as a covercrop, is attractive to syrphid flies. Among weedscommon in California, adult syrphids have been shownto be attracted to corn spurry (Spergula arvensis).Allograpta spp., Sphaerophoria spp., and Paragustibialis were observed at flowers of commonknotweed. Toothpick ammi (Ammi visnaga) attractedScaeva pyrastri, Eupeodes volucris, Metasyrphus,Melanostoma. In summer, we observed Allograptaobliqua, Sphaerophoria spp., and Paragus tibialis.Among plants suitable for windbreaks or hedgerows,syrphids are heavily drawn to such native plants asCalifornia lilacs (Ceanothus spp.), coyote brush(Baccharis pilularis), holly-leaved cherry (Prunusilicifolia), and wild buckwheats (Eriogonum spp.).The soapbark tree (Quillaja saponaria) was shownto attract Scaeva pyrastri, Metasyrphus spp., andMelanostoma spp.

Lady Beetles (Coccinellidae) are importantpredators of aphids and other soft-bodied insects.Convergent lady beetle (Hippodamia convergens)is important in field, vegetable, and orchard crops; ash-gray lady beetle (Olla v-nigrum) is mainly importantin tree crops. In the late spring, aphids usually disappearfrom Californian grasslands and most crops, so, out ofdesperation, the convergent lady beetle feeds on pollenand nectar. This species is extremely abundant onflowering soapbark tree from mid June through lateJune. Nectar and pollen are important in building upfat reserves in the beetles. Convergent lady beetleswill seek bunchgrasses and form great masses ofbeetles that may remain dormant through the summerand early winter. If bunchgrasses are not available onagricultural field margins, convergent lady beetles mayfly to mountains. Lady beetles can be retained andkept active in the agroecosystem by providing covercrops that harbor aphids or other alternate prey. Amixture of hairy vetch (Vicia villosa), and rye (Secalecereale) works well in the cool season, and hemp

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sesbania, (Sesbania exaltata) may prove useful duringthe summer. Shrubs and trees can also harbor aphidsthat sustain lady beetles. Black locust (Robiniapseudoacacea), saltbush (Atriplex spp.), andCalifornia coffee berry, (Rhamnus californica)appear promising in this regard.

Minute Pirate Bug (Orius tristicolor,Anthocoridae). These tiny bugs are importantpredators of corn earworm. They mainly attack theeggs of these and other moths.They are common in the silks ofcorn, and can also build up onflowering cover crops, shrubs, andweeds. Particularly potent sourcesare hairy vetch and ‘Lana’ vetch,toothpick ammi, buckwheat, andwild buckwheats.

Green Lacewings (Chrysopidae) are predatoryin the larval stages, and for some species in the adultstage. In other species, adults feed only on nectar,pollen, and honeydew. Comanche lacewing(Chrysoperla comanche) is extremely abundant onflowering soapbark trees from mid June through midJuly, and on and bottle trees (Brachychitonpopulneum) from mid June into October.

Brown Lacewings (Hemerobiidae) arepredatory in the adult and larval stages, and have beenshown to be important predators of artichoke plumemoth in California. Adults also feed on nectar, pollen,and honeydew, and are extremely abundant onflowering soapbark tree late at night, during June,and at bottle tree flowers from June into October.

Parasitic Wasps (Braconidae, Chalcidoidea,and Ichneumonidae) are important in biologicalcontrol of insect pests, and may rely on honeydew orpollen and nectar in the adult stages. In Massachusetts,flowering sweet fennel (Foeniculum vulgare var.dulce) planted in an organic market garden attracted

forty-eight species ofIchneumonidae. Fennel isprobably also important forparasitic wasps in California,as it has been shown forcommon knotweed andtoothpick ammi. Twentyspecies of Ichneumonidaewere observed taking

extrafloral nectar from faba bean (Vicia faba) fromlate September through late October. For unknownreasons, few ichneumonids visit buckwheat or wildbuckwheats.

Predatory Wasps include both social(Vespidae) and solitary species (Eumenidaeand Sphecidae). The Vespidae include paper waspsand yellowjackets, which attack many species ofcaterpillars. Eumenidae also prey mainly on caterpillars.Solitary wasps of the Sphecidae, as a group, attackwide ranges of insects, including caterpillars, crickets,and weevils. All these wasps require nesting sites.Many solitary species are digger wasps that nest insandy areas. Some social wasps also nest in the ground,others under eaves of buildings or in trees. Social andsolitary wasps rely heavily on nectar, and commonlyvisit flowers and extrafloral nectaries.

In Massachusetts, sweet fennel planted amid anorganic market garden flowered throughout the 12weeks of sampling. Hymenoptera collected from sweetfennel at two sites includedfour species of Sphecidae(solitary wasps) and four ofVespidae (social wasps).Flowering spearmint(Mentha spicata) attractedsix species of Sphecidae,two of Eumenidae, and twoof Vespidae. Cover cropsthat attract many predatory wasps include buckwheat,cowpea (Vigna unguiculata ssp. unguiculata), andwhite and yellow sweetclovers (Melilotus alba andM. officinalis). In Massachusetts, eighteen types ofwasps were obtained from buckwheat, and eleven fromannual white sweetclover. In Georgia, buckwheatattracted nine types of Sphecidae, two types ofEumenidae, and one type of Vespidae, whereasextrafloral nectar of cowpea attracted ten types ofSphecidae, six of Vespidae, and four of Pompilidae.

Tachinid Flies (Tachinidae) include numerousspecies that parasitize stink bugs,squash bugs, and the caterpillarstages of various moths andbutterflies. Many of these flies arereliant on nectar and pollen duringthe adult stage. Seven types oftachinid were collected from

BENEFICIAL INSECTS AND THEIR ASSOCIATIONS WITH TREES, SHRUBS, COVER CROPS, AND WEEDS

Minute Pirate Bug,Orius tristicolor

Ichneumonid wasp,Hyposoter exiguae, attackinga beet armyworm larva

Adult western yellowjacket,Vespula pensylvanica

Tachinid fly


BENEFICIAL INSECTS AND THEIR ASSOCIATIONS WITH TREES, SHRUBS, COVER CROPS, AND WEEDS

ADDITIONAL BENEFICIAL INSECTS

Damsel bug (Nabis americoferus). Thesewidely-distributed predators feed on many miteand insect pests in most vegetable and fieldcrops, but rarely inhabit trees. Nymphs resembleadults except that they lack wings. Damsel bugsoften appear in the field later than other preda-tors and are more common later in the summer.

Assassin bug (Zelus renardii). Assasin bugshave long, often spiny, bodies with long legs andantennae. They are found in almost any crop orlandscape situation and they prey on many insectspecies, including caterprillars, lygus bugs, aphidsand some beneficial species. Their eggs are bar-rel-shaped and laid in groups.

Carabid or Ground beetles. These soil-dwelling beetles are believed to be importantpredators in both field, vegetable, and tree cropsituations. They are usually black, shiny, and flat-tened with a prominent thorax that is narrowerthan the abdomen. They have long legs and runquickly. Their antennae are long and not clubbedlike those of most plant-damaging darkling beetles.

Western predatory mite (Galendromus(Metasieulus) occidentalis). This predatory miteis common in spidermite-infested fields and or-chards in the warmer valleys of California. Thismite is commercially available, but many fields havesufficient native populations when left unsprayed.They can be distinguished from two spotted mitesby the absence of the two spots on its sides. Theireggs are oval, as opposed to the spherical eggs ofthe spidermite.

Phytoseiulus persimilis. This rapidly-movingpredatory mite is red and is common inspidermite-infested fields, especially along thecoast. They are comercially avaialble, but manyfields have sufficient native populations if leftunsprayed. Originally imported, this mite hasbecome naturalized in California.

Damsel bug, Nabis sp.

Assasin bug, Zelus sp.

toothpick ammi. Buckwheat, wild buckwheat,California coffeeberry, coyote brush, otherBacchar i s spp . , Toyon (Heteromelesarbutifolia), and white sweetclover are alsoheavily visited.

Softwinged Flower Beetle (Collopsvittatus) is a brightly colored insect, with wingcovers striped with bright red and metallic blue-green.Adults feed on many pests, and are commonly foundrunning rapidly over the foliage of vegetable crops,searching for eggs of moths. Larvae are pink andcrawl about on the soil surface, feeding on otherinsects. Adults are often encountered feeding at theextrafloral nectaries of cowpeas or sunflower, orat the flowers of toothpick ammi.



Bat Houses for the Central ValleyBats are the most important predator of night-fly-

ing insects and consume vast numbers of pests. A singlelittle brown bat can catch 600 mosquitoes in an hour,and a typical colony of 150 big brown bats in themidwest eats 38,000 cucumber beetles, 16,000 Junebugs, 19,000 stink bugs and 50,000 leafhoppers as wellas thousands of moths in a season. The twenty millionMexican Free-tail bats from Bracken Cave, Texas,eat 25 tons of insects nightly.

Bats are mammals and belong to the groupChiroptera, which means “hand-wing,” as their wingsresemble extended arms with fingers and thumbs.They are not rodents, and are closer related to pri-mates than they are to mice. They mate in the fall andgenerally have one ‘pup’ the following spring. If foodis scarce, bats may re-absorb the embryo and fail toreproduce until the following year. Many bats live forthirty years or more.

Most of the bats in the Sacramento Valley migratesouth or to the coast for the winter, where food ismore abundant. Others may hibernate in caves wherethey remain dormant during the winter months. Batsoften return to their original roosting sites in thespring when the weather begins to warm and in-sects become more abundant.

Bats are frequently associated with people and areoften found in man-made structures. They preferplaces that are warm, dry, and protected from distur-bance, such as old water towers and in expansion jointsunder bridges. They have even been found roosting inburlap sacks on several farms in Yolo County.

Bat numbers have declined dramatically in recentyears due to habitat loss and human disturbance ofroosts. To encourage the activity of bats, the follow-ing information provides guidelines on how to buildand install bat houses to attract a colony of bats toyour property.

Bat House Construction and InstallationMany people have had success in attracting bats

to certain areas by erecting bat houses. The spe-cies of bats most likely to inhabit bat houses in theCentral Valley include: Pallid bats, Big Brown bats,Mexican free-tails, Little Brown bats, andPipistrelles. The following information describeshow to build a structure that meets the needs ofbats, and where to place the houses.

DESIGN AND MATERIALS

Exterior plywood is the best material to use to makethe house, and staples and bolts must be galvanized orof exterior grade. Bat houses need to be at least 32”tall, 14” wide, and have a 3-6” landing pad extendedbelow the opening. Houses should have 1-4 roostingchambers, spaced at 3/4 of an inch. The landing padand the inside of the roosting chambers should beroughened or have some sort of durable plastic screen-ing for the bats to grab hold. Make sure the houseinterior has no sharp points (from nails or plasticscreening), as bats can tear their wings on them.

Use of Bats to Enhance Insect Pest Control in the Central ValleyRachael F. Long, Farm Advisor, Pest Management, UCCE Yolo County

Claudia Funari, Research Assistant, UCCE Yolo County

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Pipistrellus hesperus, western pipistrelle.


Vents should be placed on the houses to avoid over-heating and stuffiness, and both front and side ventsshould be used. Side vents should be 6” tall by 1/2”wide, while front vents should be horizontal, also 1/2”wide and as long as the box is wide.

WEATHERPROOFING AND TREATMENT

All seams must be caulked, because bats don’tlike leaky houses. Remember, this house is going tobe up for years, so make it last! Treating the houseswith bat guano diluted with water helps make thehouse smell and feel a little more weathered, whichthe bats like. You can also produce this same effectby putting the house out during winter, before the batsreturn for the spring.

OTHER TYPES OF BAT HOUSES

One of the easiest and cheapest ways to install bathouses on buildings is simply to attach sheets of plywoodto the barn or house with 3/4" spacers between the sheetand wall. Taller rather than wider pieces of plywoodallow for greater temperature variation. Don’t forgeta landing pad and some mesh for the bats to hang on to.

EFFECT OF SOLAR RADIATION

Temperatures in the Sacramento Valley are HOTand can deter bats from your bat house. Use thickwood (at least 1/2” thick) for insulation of the house.We suggest putting houses up inside barns or on thenorth or west facing side of a building. Combined withthe thick insulated wood, this protects bats from ex-treme temperature fluctuations.

Houses should be tall enough (at least 2’) to allowfor temperature variation within the house. If there istemperature variation in the house, bats can movearound to adjust to the temperatures during the day.

LOCATION

The following factors need to be taken into account:

• Any place that already has bats is best.

• Any place near water as they need to drinkevery night, usually right after they emerge atdusk. The suggested distance from water is aquarter of a mile.

• Bats prefer agricultural areas over urbanareas, mainly because of the diversity ofhabitat and the abundance of insects.

• Houses should be placed near areas with anysort of protected cover, like a grove a treesfor instance. The most dangerous times forbats are at dusk and at dawn when both night-time and daytime predators are hunting. Aplace of cover to immediately duck into afterthey emerge gives the bats needed protectionfrom predators.

• Houses should be placed 20-25’ from the near-est tree; this gives them flying space whenthey emerge, and protects them from any treeclimbing or perching predators.

• Finally, do not place boxes near Barn Owlboxes! This is a common mistake. While barnowls do help out by eating rodents, they alsoeat bats. Place your house a fair distancefrom your Barn Owl box, and don’t facethem towards each other.

USE OF BATS TO ENHANCE INSECT PEST CONTROL IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY

Model 1 Model 2 Model 3Models 1-3: 95 surveyed, 32% occupied

Medium House Large Houses

Model 4 Model 5 Model 612 surveyed 69 surveyed 51 surveyed58% occupied 46% occupied 71% occupied

Small Houses


BAT HOUSE PLACEMENT

• Bat houses in barns and on the north and westsides of buildings have had the greatest rateof occupancy.

• To protect the houses from predators theyshould be at least ten feet off the ground

• DO NOT mount onto a metal building. Thehouses will get far too hot for bats.

• Houses should not be lit by bright lights.

• Do not tilt bat houses. Some people say tiltinghouses helps bat pups hang on. But in leanyears, mothers actually need to kick their babiesout of their houses because they don’t havethe resources to feed their pups. So let naturetake its course.

• Put houses up before bats return in spring.Usually the winter is best. This way housessmell weathered and old.

MOUNTING BAT HOUSES

Mount houses on the north or west facing side ofthe house, directly under the eaves. Screw or nail bothtop and bottom of house to the existing structure (barn,shed, etc.) for best results. Use no larger than 2 1/2”screws. If points extend into box, the bats might catchand rip their wings.

Bat House MaintenanceBat houses don’t require much maintenance. Af-

ter a couple years you might think of re-caulking orputting on another coat of paint. This insures that thehouses are sealed and protected from the weatherwhile the bats are living in them.

Look out for wasp nets. Wasps and bats can livetogether in bat houses. However, if the wasp neststake up too much space, the bats will probably lookelsewhere for housing. To avoid this, try wiping thenest out of your bat box in the winter months whenboth bats and wasps are absent.

Time Until First OccupancyMost bat houses used by bats are occupied in the

first or second season. If you don’t see occupancyafter the second year, move the house to another loca-tion. Bat houses that have not had activity for five

USE OF BATS TO ENHANCE INSECT PEST CONTROL IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY

years have less than a one percent chance of beingoccupied in successive years.

Checking for OccupancyYou might want to look into your house every so

often and see who’s there. The best way to check foroccupancy is to observe the houses at dusk on a warmevening to see whether bats emerge. You can alsolook for droppings on the ground (guano) that are similarin size and appearance to rat droppings.

Health ConcernsContrary to popular belief, bats are not blind, do

not become entangled in human hair, and seldomtransmit diseases of other animals and humans. Lessthan 1/2 of the one percent of our colonial bats con-tact rabies, and when they do, they develop a typeof paralysis, fall to the ground and quickly die. Therehas never been an epidemic outbreak of rabies inbats. If you do see a bat on the ground, treat it withthe respect that you would give any wild animaland leave it alone. By leaving it alone, you removethe risk of contracting any diseases.

Bat droppings do not pose any greater health threatthan bird or cat droppings. Inhalation of dust associ-ated with animal feces of any kind should be avoided.

Removing Bat ColoniesSometimes bats inhabit areas where they are not

wanted. To remove bats, watch to see where thebats emerge at dusk. Then place a piece of fiber-glass window screen over the exit hole so that thematerial hangs at least a foot down. this serves asa one way valve so that the bats can crawl out, butthey can’t get back in. Avoid sealing areas wherebats occur during late spring and early summerwhen flightless young are often in the roosts.

If you are serious about experimenting with bathouse design or would just like help or be involved in anation-wide research project devoted to collecting in-formation on bat houses, contact Bat ConservationInternational, P.O. Box 162603, Austin, Texas, 78716,or call 512.327.9721.

If you would like more information on how toconstruct bat houses, call BCI or Yolo County FarmAdvisor, Rachael Freeman Long at the UC Coop-erative Extension, 530.666.8143.



Little Brown Bat, Myotis lucifugusThis is the most common bat in Canada and the

northern two-thirds of the United States. This isone of the species most likely to occupy bat houses.They can be found almost everywhere in the Cen-tral Valley. They are extremely heat-tolerant withbody temperatures recorded up to 129oF (54oC).They roost in woody areas, builings, rock crevices,tree hollows and bat houses and will also roost withBig Brown Bats. They tend to eat mosquitos, moths,and other night-flying and aquatic insects.

Big Brown Bat, Eptesicus fuscusThis bat is attracted to caves, abandoned mines,

and buidings. They are less likely to tolerate high tem-peratures, but they do tolerate very lowtemperatures.It has been found that their body temperature can reachsub-freezing degrees. Therefore, they do not migrate andcan be found overwintering in bat houses. They preferbeetles and tend to hunt around areas with trees.

Who Might I Find In My Bat House?from Bat House Builders Handbook, Merlin Tuttle and Donna L. Hensley

images © Merlin D. Tuttle, Bat Conservation International

Bats of California that Will Roost in Bat Houses:

Eptesicus fuscus, big brown bat, in flight with beetle.

Pallid Bat,Antrozouspallidus

This is one ofthe more interesting-looking bat species. Their earsare about half as long as their heads and bodies com-bined! You can bet these bats have a marvelous senseof hearing! They are ground feeders and tend to eatlarger prey such as grasshoppers, beetles, and evenscorpions. This species doesn’t migrate, but just hi-bernates in the same area deep within rock crevices.These bats are attracted to buildings, bat boxes, rockcrevices, and spaces under bridges. They are one ofthe few bats that like the aridity of the central valley.

Mexican Free-Tailed Bat,Tadaridabrasiliensis

This bat is named “free-tail” because its tail projectspast the membrane that connects its legs and tail. Thusthe tail is “free” of the membrane. This is another spe-cies most likely to occupy bat houses. It is the mostcolonial of all species. One of the largest roosts, atBracken Cave in Teaxas, holds up to 20 million bats.This bat overwinters in Mexican and Central Ameri-can caves and migrates back to the central valley inthe spring. These bats eat an enormous amount ofmoths and mosquitos.



Reasons for Using TransplantsThere are several benefits to using transplants to

establish native grasses, sedges or rushes. One of theseis rapid establishment, which could be an importantconsideration in some restoration projects. For somespecies, sufficient seed of locally adapted biotypesmay not be available in large enough quantities tobroadcast. In this case, greenhouse grown trans-plants provide a much more efficient use of availableseed and weed control can be optimized during thefirst season. Mechanical or chemical means can be usedin advance of planting to provide a “clean slate” foryoung plugs and minimize weed competition. Anotheradvantage is that with advanced maturity of trans-plants, many will produce seed the first season andbegin the process of filling in non-vegetated areas.

Transplant TypesThanks to the vegetable transplant industry, tech-

niques to economically reproduce large quantities ofhigh quality transplants have been developed. Smalltransplants grown in flats of 200 plants (1-1/4 in. x 1-1/4 in. x 2-1/2 in. cells) are easy to grow and plant. Ifplanting is done correctly, survivorship is excellent.Transplants grown in larger stubby cells are excel-lent, but the plants are more costly and planting themrequires more labor. In most cases where there isadequate soil moisture at the time of planting, the largersize transplants are not necessary.

Ordering TransplantsMost cool season grass transplants require 6-10

weeks of growing time before they are ready to plant.Once plants are ready, they can be stored in a cool

Using Transplants to Establish Native Grasses, Sedges, and Rushes(Plug Planting)

John H. Anderson, Hedgerow Farmsillustrations by Paul Robins

environment for 4-8 weeks before planting. Order inSeptember or early October to be ready for a Decem-ber or January planting.

Site PreparationGROUND TREATMENT

Plug transplants can be put in almost any type ofsoil as long as it is moist. The roots of healthy trans-plants penetrate the surrounding soil in just a few days.In weedy areas where there can be a heavy layer ofthatch that contains weed seed, fire is recommendedto remove the thatch. Fall burns just after the firstgermination usually kill all early germinating weeds.Mowing and raking may be an option for smaller areas.

WEED CONTROL PRIOR TO PLANTING

In weedy sites, it is ideal to practice one year ofvigorous weed control to reduce the weed seed bank.If that is not possible, weeds should be controlled justprior to planting in the fall or winter. The most effec-tive controls are broad-spectrum herbicide applications,two days to two weeks prior toplanting. If weed growth beginsearly in the fall and scheduledplanting is in January, an additionalearlier application may be required.Propane weed flamers can be usedin place of herbicides, but weeds mustbe small at the time of flaming.

Planting TimeIn the Sacramento/San Joaquin Valley and ad-

jacent foothills, assuming there is no irrigrationavailable, plating should be done in December, Janu-ary, or early February. In very wet springs as in theEl Niño year of 1998, planting could be as late asMarch. If there is reliable irrigation available, plantingcan begin earlier and go into mid-April, depending onthe plant species being used. There must be good

Plug tray

Individual plug tube


ground moisture at the time of planting and in weedssites, maximum weed germination is desirable beforeplanting. The more weeds have germinated and killedearly on, the fewer the weeds to control later.

Planting TechniquesA hole is made with a dibble stick that easily pen-

etrates the ground and makes a hole similar to the sizeand shape of the plug. A plant is placed in the hole andthe top is sealed by pinching it with fingers or com-pacting it with a blunt stick. The most effective methodfor planting is to work in teams of three: a hole-puncher,a planter who also carries the plants, and a follow-upsealer. Depending on the site, a good team of threecan plant 300-500 plants per hour.

Transplants respond well to nitrogen fertilizers thatare applied just prior to planting or while plugs are stillin the containers.

Planting DensityLow density plantings would include 1-3 plants per

square yard (4,840-14,520 plants per acre). This den-sity may not be the desired end result density, but itprovides seed-producing plants rapidly. Under propermanagement (fire, grazing, mowing), those species thatare best adapted to the site will reseed and have goodseedling survival. As additional plants are added to thepopulation, a self-evolution of the local ecosystem cantheoretically occur.

High density plantings would include 9-27 plantsper square yard (43,560-130,684) plants per acre. Highdensity planting should be used where rapid and com-plete cover is desired by the end of the first year. Theseare generally small or highly visible projects.

Follow-up ManagementPost planting management bascially involves the

control of weeds. Some pre-emergent herbicides canbe used immediately following planting. Be sure tofollow label recommendations. In low density plantings,management strategies should encourage reseedingfrom the established plugs. Along with weed control,this might include some soil distrubance to provide aseed bed for the newly-dropped seed.

USING TRANSPLANTS TO ESTABLISH NATIVE GRASSES, SEDGES, AND RUSHES (PLUG PLANTING)

Planting technique


Willows, Cottonwood, Mulefat, and Coyotebrushrespond well to this type of propagation.

Uses• Nesting and foraging habitat for songbirds

• Roosts for raptors

• Windbreaks for waterfowl roosting areas

• Visual screens to hide vehicles on roads

Site SelectionThe planting area should have a shallow water table

and the appropriate soil texture and profile to suit thetree. Willows and cottonwoods must grow their rootsinto permanently moist soil, otherwise they cannotsurvive. All cottonwoods and willows usually grow intothe surface of the soil water table, from one to tenfeet below the soil surface. Seepage from canals andditches will also provide a year-round moist soil zone.All prefer a loamy soil texture for optimum growth.Only Valley willow (Salix goodingii) appears to thriveon heavy clay soils.

Site PreparationThe planting spot should be recently tilled soil with

no weeds. Tillage of the soil will benefit the earlygrowth of the cutting by facilitating root growth. A post-hole soil auger on the PTO of a tractor can deep-tillscores of planting holes per hour. The depth of thehole should be to the upper edge of the water table.Alternatively, a planting trench can be easily createdby dragging a ripping-shank through the soil.

CollectionCut first-year stems of 3/4 inch diameter. Length

should be between 3-6 feet. Keep cuttings moist at alltimes in a plastic bag or in a bucket with water. It isimportant to both cut and plant your cuttings beforebud swelling, as the wood’s rooting hormones arediverted for flowering after bud break, diminishing yourchances for plant rooting and establishment.

Propagation of Trees and Shrubs by Stem-CuttingTom Griggs, Restoration Ecologist, The Nature Conservancy

PlantingCuttings should

be soaked in abucket of waterovernight beforeplanting. Waterneed only cover thecut bases. Whenplanting, at least 2-3 feet of the cuttingshould be buried inthe soil. A hole canbe prepared with a ram rod or augur, but in verysoft, moist soil, the cutting can be shoved directlyinto the soil. Trim the above-ground portion back to1’. Make certain that the cutting is upright (budspointing upward), as an upside down cutting willnot sprout. Compact the soil around the cutting toremove air pockets in the soil. Rooting hormone(Indole acetic acid or indole butyric acid = brandnames: Rootone, Dip-n-gro, Hormex) may increasethe amount of roots initially produced by the cutting,which in turn will result in a vigorous sapling sooner.

IrrigationThe first goal of irrigation should be to keep the

rooting zone damp. The most frequent cause ofmortality during the first season is drying of the cuttingbefore a sufficient root system has developed. Theupper end of the cutting will lose water on warm, drydays in the spring. This desiccation can overwhelm anunderdeveloped root system, resulting in death of theentire cutting.

A second goal of irrigation is to grow the rootsystems down to the water table. This may involvea deep-irrigation schedule to entice the roots to growdown to deeper water tables.

At the opposite extreme, too much water, as inponding for days, will cause the cutting to rot.


WeedsDuring the first season weeds should be controlled.

Cottonwood and willows do not tolerate shading byweeds. A dense stand of weeds will also impede rootgrowth of the cutting. By the second year, roots of thesaplings should be deeper than the roots of the weeds.

Deer and RodentsDeer will browse all the leaves off a sapling,

slowing its growth. Commercially available deer-repellents are effective, if applied early and regularly.One solution is to plant more cuttings than the localdeer herd can eat.

Meadow voles (Microtus spp.) may eat the barkat the base of the cutting, thereby girdling and killing it.Voles can be controlled by removing weeds and othercover from around the cutting. Raptor roosts can alsohelp control the smaller rodents.

Beavers can be a major problem. Hundreds ofcuttings have been know to disappear overnight asa result of beavers. Only physical protection(fencing) can help.

First and Second Year MaintenanceStrategies

The first season maintenance should focus onfrequent irrigations and weed control. By mid-summer irrigations should be less frequent and deepto promote a deep-growing root system.

If the sapling’s roots have not connected withthe soil water table, then a second season’s irrigationmay be necessary. Infrequent, long durationirrigations should be applied. Water stress symptomsare yellowing of older leaves followed by droopingof the tree.

PROPAGATION OF TREES AND SHRUBS BY STEM-CUTTING


Native oaks are a vital and important componentof the vegetation of California. They grow in a widevariety of habitats and help provide a distinctivecharacter to the landscape. Not only are they beautifulto look at, but they also provide food and shelter formany wildlife species, they stabilize soil, and they helpcounteract the “greenhouse effect” by taking upcarbon dioxide and producing oxygen.

It is estimated that one or more species of oaksgrow on over 20 percent of the state’s 100 million acresof land. Unfortunately, there are also reports that somenative oaks may not be regenerating very well in somelocations. Poor natural regeneration raises concernsabout the long term fate of these species. To assistMother Nature in establishing new oak trees, effortsare underway to plant acorns and small seedlings. Suchregeneration efforts will ensure that our magnificentoaks, which have graced California valleys and foothillsfor thousands of years, will be around for futuregenerations to enjoy.

The following guidelines provide successfultechniques for growing oak trees. While there are manyways to get an oak tree started, the proceduresdescribed have proved successful for a variety ofspecies and environments.

Acorns or Seedlings?Oak trees can be started by either directly planting

acorns or transplanting small seedlings. However, sincerelatively few native oak seedlings are produced inthe state, it may be difficult to purchase them. Thosethat are produced are generally grown in containersand should be no more than one year old beforetransplanting since they quickly outgrow small pots.Even with the largest containers, it is important thatseedlings be transplanted within a couple of years sinceoaks tend to produce massive root systems and caneasily become “pot-bound.”

Some bareroot oak seedlings are also available.Recently the California Department of ForestryNursery at Magalia began growing, and making

How to Grow California OaksDouglas D. McCreary, Natural Resource Specialist, UC Cooperative Extension

available to the public, several species of oaks. Thesupply of both container and bareroot oak seedlingsshould increase in future years as techniques for rearingthem are developed and perfected, and more peopleexpress an interest in planting native oaks.

The choice of whether to plant acorns or seedlingsdepends on many factors, including availability andconditions at the planting site. Generally, acorns areeasier to plant, but the survival of seedlings may begreater if they are planted correctly at the right timeof the year. Another influencing factor is the type ofpredators present on the planting site. If there are highpopulations of acorn-eating rodents (ground squirrelsor deer mice), it may be easier to plant seedlings thanto try to protect the acorns.

Maintain Local Seed SourcesSince most tree species have adapted to the specific

environments where they grow, it is important to onlyplant a given oak species in areas where it naturallyoccurs or where it may have grown in the past. Evenwithin a species, you must be careful to only plantacorns or seedlings that come from a parent treegrowing in the same general environment. If you tookan acorn from a blue oak tree growing on the coastand planted it in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, forinstance, it would probably grow poorly or die, eventhough blue oaks grow in both locations. Since coastaltrees are genetically adapted to more temperate,moister conditions, they would be subject to injury fromthe colder, drier conditions of the interior. If you collectacorns yourself, you can be sure where they comefrom, and know that they are also handled and storedproperly. If you buy from a nursery, make sure youfind out the location and the elevation of the acornscollected, and insist on seed sources from as near yourplanting site as possible.

Collecting AcornsAcorns can be collected either directly from the

trees or from the ground beneath. However, thehealthiest acorns are generally those picked from the


trees. Those that fall to the ground often dry out andare damaged--especially if they lie exposed for morethan a few days during hot and dry weather. If youcollect acorns from the ground, leave behind those thatare very small, cracked or feel light and hollow. Acornscollected directly from trees can be handpicked orknocked to the ground using long poles or pieces ofplastic pipe. It’s easy to pick them up if you place tarpsunder the trees first.

The best time to collect acorns is in the late summerand early fall, when they are just starting to turn fromgreen to brown and some are starting to fall to theground. It’s probably too early to collect them if theyare all dark green and it is difficult to remove theircaps (the cup covering the rounded end). Wait a coupleof weeks and check them again.

Storing AcornsPrior to storage the caps on all acorns should be

taken off. They should come off easily when twisted.Acorns collected directly from the trees should be putin zip-lock bags and immediately placed in arefrigerator. Refrigeration slows the metabolic activityand helps prevent them from heating up or drying out--both of which can be damaging. A recent studyindicated that storing acorns in a refrigerator for amonth or so before planting resulted in faster and morecomplete germination than planting acorns immediately.

Acorns picked up off the ground should be soakedfor a day before they are placed in cold storage. Thosethat float should be discarded. “Floaters” are generallyacorns that have been damaged by insects or havedried out while they were on the ground. “Sinkers”should be saved. Remove the acorns from the waterand place then in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Checkthem occasionally for molds. If molds do develop, takethe acorns out and rinse them, and then put them backin the refrigerator.

Another problem that can develop in cold storageis premature germination. Blue oak acorns areespecially prone to this. The white tip emerging fromthe pointed end of the acorn is actually the start of thenew root system. Once these roots have grown for afew weeks, they can start to go bad and turn darkbrown or grey and mushy. Therefore, if you see theacorns starting to germinate in storage, you should plantthem as soon as possible.

Acorn and Seedling PlantingAcorns can be planted from early November (after

the first rains have soaked the soil) until early March.It is generally better, however, to plant the acorns earlyin the season since the earlier they are placed in theground (after one month cold storage interval), theearlier they start to grow. Early planting also reducesthe problems associated with premature germination.

Plant the acorns one-half to one inch below the soilsurface. Dig a hole using a hand trowel, hoe, or shovel.It’s best to dig the hole several inches deeper than theacorn is actually planted, and then partially fill the holeback up with loose soil. This gives the new root achance to get a good start in soft, easy-to-penetratesoil. If the acorns have germinated, try not to breakthe root tip, and position it so that the root is pointingdown. Even if the tip of the root has begun to turnbrown, the acorns are still okay as long as some of theroot is white and fleshy. Place ungerminated acornson their sides in the hole and cover with soil.

Planting seedlings requires a little more care due tothe greater risk of transplant shock and root injury.Seedlings should be planted between December andFebruary, when the soil is wet but not frozen. Whenplanting container seedlings, try to keep the soil fromfalling off the roots. Place the seedlings in the groundsuch that the top of the soil from the container is evenwith the ground line. It is especially important not toplant the seedlings so shallow that the potting mix sticksup in the air, since this can cause the seedlings todessicate due to moisture “wicking out”. If you areplanting bareroot seedlings, be sure not to “J-root” them(planting in too shallow a hole so the root bends up).Also, tamp the soil down in the planting hole to removeair pockets. If possible, water the transplants whenthey are planted. This settles the soil, insures there isadequate moisture, and helps eliminate air pockets.

Recent studies have indicated that auguring deepholes (2-3 feet) below planting spots and backfillingwith broken-up soil can promote deep rootdevelopment and stimulate vigorous growth. Thisis especially beneficial if you are planting in hard,compacted ground. Deep root developmentprovides seedlings with greater access to moisture,thus reducing the ill effects of summer drought.Placing a fertilizer tablet a few inches below and tothe side of the bottom of the root can also help ensure

HOW TO GROW CALIFORNIA OAKS


that the developing seedling will have plenty ofnutrients for its initial growth.

The site where you choose to plant acorns orseedlings may also be critical for their success. Choosea sunny spot that has loose, well-drained soil and isfairly free of weeds. Also, avoid areas where thereare lots of pocket gopher mounds or ground squirrelactivity. If you feel that the acorns may be threatenedby rodents such as squirrels or mice, plant them a littledeeper--about two inches below the surface. If theyare planted deeper, it might be harder for these animalsto dig them up. If they are planted too deep, however,they may rot in the soil and fail to germinate.

Planting LayoutThe number of acorns or seedlings to plant in a

given area depends on how many oaks you eventuallywant to grow there. Unfortunately, it is very difficultto predict how many trees will be produced fromplantings, since many uncertain factors, includingweather, animals, and competing vegetation caninfluence the outcome. When laying out the plantingarea, consider spacing seedlings or acorns in a naturalmanner, rather than in straight rows, using surroundingoak trees as a model. On open rangeland, it isrecommended that trees be established in small clumpsor clusters, with the goal of about 40 planting spots peracre. This comes out to an average of one cluster every30-40 feet. Within each cluster, plant 3-4 seedlings. Inrestoration projects in riparian zones, a greater densityis usually desirable, so have the clusters closer together,at about 15-20 feet apart.

Seedling Maintenance and ProtectionAnother critical factor affecting young oak seedlings

is competing vegetation. Adjacent plants--especiallygrasses--can use up so much of the available soilmoisture that little is left for the seedlings. It is thereforerecommended that a 2-3 foot radius around the plantingspots be cleared of other vegetation. This can be doneby hand weeding, hoeing, scalping, or by spraying acontact herbicide. However, with any of thesemethods, be sure to check back in spring and earlysummer to remove any additional weeds that may havecome up.

Another way of reducing weeds near seedlings isto place some type of mulch around the planting spots.

Bark chips, straw, compost, mulching paper, or evenblack plastic can be used. Mulches have an addedbenefit in that they also help conserve moisture byreducing evaporation from the soil surface. In areaswhere water is accessible, several deep irrigations (2gallons per seedling) during the late spring and earlysummer can also help ensure that the seedlings arenot damaged by drought.

Since acorns are an important food source for manydifferent animals, there is always a risk that some willbe dug up and eaten. As the seedlings start to grow inthe spring, there also exists the chance that livestock,rabbits, grasshoppers, or other animals will eat theirtender young shoots. The risk of such injury to bothacorns and seedlings can be reduced by placingprotective cages around the planting spots. One typeof cage that has worked well in research plots consistsof an 18x18 inch aluminum screen that is formed intoa 5-inch diameter cylinder and stapled to a 1x2x24inch wooden stake. The cylinder is folded closed atthe top. The stake is driven into the ground so that thescreen cage covers the spot where the acorn orseedlings are planted. This cage will keep out rodents,insects, and browsing animals. Another cage consistsof a screen cylinder placed around a 1-quart yogurt orcottage cheese container that is open at both ends.Place the quart container in the soil so that the top is atthe soil surface. This protective cage will not onlyprevent stem damage, but will also help keep outburrowing animals such as gophers which often candamage roots.

When the seedlings grow to the top of the screencages, open the cages up so the seedlings can continueto grow. You’re now well on your way to establishingan oak tree!

For more information on planting oaks ofCalifornia, contact your local University of CaliforniaCooperative Extension Farm Advisor’s Office, orcheck the website for the Integrated Hardwood RangeManagement Program at danr.ucop.edu/ihrmp/. Fordistribution range maps, see poster: Oaks ofCalifornia, by Good Nature Publishing Co., 1904Third Avenue, Suite 415, Seattle, Washington, 98101or visit www.goodnaturepublishing.com, or see text:Oaks of California by Bruce M. Pavlik, Pamela C.Muick, Sharon G. Johnson, and Marjorie Popper(1991), Cachuma Press.




Information in this table is summarized from the resources mentioned at the end of this article and from the JepsonManual of Higher Plants of California by James C. Hickman.

Latin name Common Name Elev Range (ft) Elev Range (ft) South

Associations Habitat types

Quercus agrifolia Coast Live Oak 3000 to 5000 Forms pure stands; also grows with interior live oak and coast live oak

Common on valley floors or not-too-dry fertile slopes

Quercus berberidifolia Scrub Oak 1000-5000 Dry slopes, chaparral Quercus chrysolepis Canyon Live Oak 300-5000 Found with mixed conifer,

chaparral, and woodland species; tanoak, Douglas-fir, Pacific madrone, coast live oak

Most widely distributed oak in CA.; sheltered north slopes and steep canyons

Quercus cornelium-mulleri Muller Oak 3000-6000 slopes, granitic soils, chaparral, pinyon woodland

Quercus douglassii Blue Oak 500-2000 to 5000 Grades into open Valley oak stands at low elevations, blends into denser Live oak stands at higher elevations, foothill pine common

Hot, dry sites with rocky soils, 12-40 in. deep; can't compete with live oak on better sites

Quercus dumosa Nuttall's Scrub Oak <700 rare Generally sandy soild near the coast, sandstone, chaparral, coastal-sage scrub

Quercus durata Leather Oak 500-5000 Chaparral Quercus engelmannii Engelmann Oak <4000 In pure stands & with Coast live

oak Warm, dry fans and foothills

Quercus garryana Oregon White Oak 500-3000 Douglas fir, mixed evergreen forest, Pacific madrone & tanoak

Cool humid sites near coast to hot, dry sites inland

Quercus john-tuckeri Tucker Oak 3000-6500 slopes on desert borders, chaparral, pinyon/juniper woodland

Quercus kelloggii California Black Oak 200-6000 Most common with tanoak, madrone, mixed conifer forest species;, also with coast live oak, interior live oak, and blue oak

More common on forest sites; found on moister hardwood rangelands; well-drained soils. Slopes, valleys, woodland, coniferous forests

Quercus lobata Valley Oak 500-800 to 5600 Blue & Oregon white oak, sometimes Interior live oak.

Uncommon. Prefers fertile, well-drained bottomland soils, streambeds, and lower foothills. Slopes, valleys, savannah

Quercus palmeri Palmer Oak 2300-4300 Rocky slopes and flats Quercus parvula Island Scrub Oak <3300 Canyons, slopes, chaparral,

woodland Quercus sadleriana Deer Oak 2000-7200 Open rocky slopes, ridges,

coniferous forests Quercus tomentella Island Oak <2000 Uncommon: canyons, slopes,

woodlands Quercus turbinella Desert Scrub Oak 4000-6500 Pinyon/Juniper woodland Quercus vaccinifolia Huckleberry Oak 3000-9000 Steep slopes, ridges,

coniferous forests, subalpine Quercus wislizenii Interior Live Oak ,2000 >6200 In pure stands or mixed with

blue and/or coast live oak, and valley oaksin So. California

Wide range, from valleys to foothills; moister areas than blue oak


Effective Herbicides for Use in the Establishment of Native GrassesBryan Young, Sacramento County Bufferlands Program

Weed control is one of the single most importantfactors in establishing a native grass system. Whenapplied appropriately, herbicides can be an extremelyvaluable and cost-effective tool in the battle againstexotic weeds. In fact, many native grass professionalshave deemed the use of herbicides fundamental in theprocess of native grass establishment. The following

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RoundUp®RoundUp Ultra®RoundUp Pro®

A postemergentsystemic herbicide withno residual soil activity.Controls a broadspectrum of weeds byinhibiting metabolismand protein synthesis.This product willdamage or kill nativegrasses.

• Glyphosate is an excellent tool fordepleting weed seed banks.

• Low rates of glyphosate can be used tokill off early flushes of cool seasonweeds.

• In order to keep an area chemicallyfallowed year round, slightly higherrates are often needed to control warmseason weeds.

• Seeding native grass into areaimmediately after treatment is not aproblem. In fact, seeded areas can betreated with glyphosate up to the pointof native grass seedling emergence.

• If drift damage to natives can beavoided or tolerated, glyphosate can beused for spot treatment of difficultweeds.

Glyphosate activity and control spectrumcan be enhanced and broadened by mixingwith an activator containing amoniumsulfate or through tank mixing** with avariety of other herbicides.

Glyphosate $7 - $45

provides summarized information on several herbicidesthat have been successfully used in the establishmentof native grass projects. Keep in mind that much moreinformation is available on the product label andmaterial safety data sheets. This information is providedby your chemical distributor and must be read by theapplicator before using the product.


EFFECTIVE HERBICIDES FOR USE IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF NATIVE GRASSESA

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A selective postemergentherbicide that controlsmany broadleaf weeds intheir early growth stagesby blockingphotosynthesis.

A selective postemergentherbicide that controls abroad spectrum ofbroadleaf weeds.

A selective postemergentherbicide that controlsbroadleaf weeds at avariety of plant growthstages.

A selective postemergentherbicide thatcontrolsbroadleaf weeds at avariety of growth stages.

Octanoic acidester ofBromoxinyl

MCPA

Triclopyr

2,4-D

Buctril®

Rhonox®

Garlon 4®Remedy®

Weedar 64®Amine 4®Garlon 3A®

• Can be used for early season treatmentof broadleaf weeds, after grassseedlings have reached the three leafstage. Other broadleaf selectiveherbicides would likely injury grassseedlings at this stage. Note: Thisherbicide used alone is only effective onbroadleaf weeds in early stages ofgrowth.

• This chemical can be tank mixed**with other herbicides to increase weedcontrol spectrum.

• Can be used for early season treatmentof broadleaf weeds, after grassseedlings have reached the three leafstage. Other broadleaf selectiveherbicides would likely injure grassseedlings during this stage. Note: Thisherbicide used alone is only effective onbroadleaf weeds in early stages ofgrowth.


• Used to control a variety of broadleafweeds through late spring. Greatcaution should be taken when using thisproduct for later season applications, asthis product will volatilize intemperatures over 80° F. Volatilizedchemical can easily drift and damagenon-target plants

• Triclopyr provides excellent control ofperennial pepperweed when applied inspring.

• Used to control a variety of broadleafweeds throughout the year at a lowcost per acre but, it is not as effectiveas triclopyr in cooler temperatures.


$2 - $15

$25 - $100

$6 - $25

$20- $40


EFFECTIVE HERBICIDES FOR USE IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF NATIVE GRASSES

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A selectivepostemergent herbicidethat controls manybroadleaf weeds byaffecting root growth.

A specialty herbicideused for selectivepostemergent control ofbroadleaf weeds.

Supplemental labeling,California only. Aselective herbicide thatcontrols susceptibleweeds by inhibitingmetabolism and proteinsynthesis. Control isboth pre andpostemergent.

A selective postemergentherbicide for the controlof annual and perennialgrass weeds.

An herbicide that can beapplied for preemergentor postemergent controlof many annual, biennial,and perennial grass andbroadleaf weeds. Actionis through interferencewith plant cell division.

Dicamba

Clopyralid

Oxyflourfen

Fluazifop

Chlorsulfuron

Banvel®

Transline®

Goal®

Poast®Fusilade®

Telar®

• Often used in a tank mix with 2,4-D orBuctril to broaden the scope ofbroadleaf weeds controlled by theherbicide application.

• This product provides very effectivelater growth stage control of broadleafweeds such as star thistle and sweetclover.

• This product provides excellentpostemergent control of yellow starthistle.

• Used to control a variety of broadleafweeds through pre and postemergentaction.

• Preemergent control is targeted forbroadleaf weeds, but may have someeffect on grass seedling recruitment.

• Provides excellent postemergentcontrol of cheeseweed (Malva spp.).

• Used to control grass weeds in well-established grass and fine fescues. Useof this herbicide will likely result inobservable damage to native grass.Well-established grasses will survivethis damage. Finer bladed grasses willincur less damage.

• Used for effective spot control ofJohnson grass.

• Used for postemergent control of manybroadleaf weeds. Very good for controlof perennial Pepperweed. Use cautionwhen applying around desirable woodyvegetation as drift can cause damage ordeath.

• Used for preemergent and earlypostemergent control of annual ryegrass.

$35 - $140

$12 - $65

$30 - $120

$8 - $90

$10 - $70


*These are general guidelines for herbicide use in the establishment of native grasses. They are intended to help you inmaking decisions. The information provided and the use of trade names does not constitute a specific recommendation of theproducts listed. Always follow label recommendations and comply with federal, state, and local authorities regarding restric-tions on pesticide use and the latest reentry intervals.

**Unless specifically directed against in the label, mixing different herbicides in a tank is a common and legal practiceused to maximize herbicide application efficiency. Before mixing herbicides in a tank, test mixtures for compatibility in a glassjar. Incompatible mixtures could lead to equipment damage or an ineffective treatment. Compatibility charts are available frompesticide manufacturers and distributors. Some special safety and reentry restrictions apply when using a mixed tank. Thisinformation must be obtained before applying any tank mixes.

EFFECTIVE HERBICIDES FOR USE IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF NATIVE GRASSESA

CTIV

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An herbicide that can beapplied prior to theemergence of weeds forcontrol of susceptibleweeds for an extendedperiod of time or post-emergence for control ofsusceptible weeds whenenvironmental conditionsare favorable. Thisherbicide blocksphotosynthesis insusceptible weeds.

Diuron Karmex® • Used for pre-emergent broad-spectrumcontrol where seedling recruitment isless important than pre-emergent weedcontrol.

$25 - $75


PreemergenceCasoron Karmex* Devrinol Solicam Surflan Goal Simazine Treflan Prowl

Annual BroadleavesCheeseweed (Malva) C P P P P C P N NChickweed C C C P C N C C CClover P P P N N P C N NFiddleneck C C C P C C C C CFilaree P C C P N C N N NFlax-leaved Fleabane C N N N N N C N NGoosefoot C C C C C C C C CGroundsel C N P P N C C N NHenbit C C N P C C C C CHorseweed (Marestail) P N N N N N C N NKnotweed C C C P C P C C CLambsquarter C C C P C C C C CMustard C C P P N C C N NNightshade C C N C P C C N PPigweed P C P P C C C C CPrickly lettuce C C C C N C C N NPuncturevine C P N C C C P P PPurslane C C C C C C C C CShepherdspurse C C N P N C C N NSowthistle C C C C N C C N NSpurge C P N C C C P C CWild radish C C N N N C P N N

Annual GrassesAnnual Bluegrass C C C C C P C C CBarnyardgrass P C C C C P C C CCrabgrass P C C C C N P C CRyegrass N C C C C N N C CWild barley C C C C C P C C CWild oats NA P C C P P C P CFescues P C C C C C C C C

PerennialsField bindweed P N N N P N N P PBermudagrass P N N P P N N P PDallisgrass N N N N P N N N NJohnsongrass N N N C N N N N P

C=Controlled P=Partial control N=Not controlled

Common Herbicides and their Effectiveness on Certain Weeds(UC Cooperative Extension)**

* Herbicides in bold, italic text are those that are approved for use on roadsides and rights-of-way.

**The information provided and the use of trade names does not constitute a specific recommendation of the productslisted. Always follow label recommendations and comply with federal, state, and local authorities regarding restriction onpesticide use and the latest reentry intervals.


COMMON HERBICIDES AND THEIR EFFECTIVENESS ON CERTAIN WEEDS

*Herbicides in bold, italic text are those that are approved for use on roadsides and rights-of-way.

**The information provided and the use of trade names does not constitute a specific recommendation of the productslisted. Always follow label recommendations and comply with federal, state, and local authorities regarding restriction onpesticide use and the latest reentry intervals.

PostemergenceRoundup MSMA Gramoxone 2,4-D Poast Fusilade Prism

Annual BroadleavesCheeseweed (Malva) P N P P N N NChickweed C C C P N N NClover P N P P N N NFiddleneck C N P P N N NFilaree P N P P N N NFlax-leaved Fleabane C N P C N N NGoosefoot N N P C N N NGroundsel C N C C N N NHenbit C C C P N N NHorseweed (Marestail) C N P C N N NKnotweed C N P P N N NLambsquarter N N N C N N NMustard P N C C N N NNightshade C P C C N N NPigweed C N C C N N NPrickly lettuce C N P C N N NPuncturevine C N C C N N NPurslane C N C C N N NShepherdspurse C N C C N N NSowthistle C N P C N N NSpurge C P P P N N NWild radish C N C C N N N

Annual GrassesAnnual Bluegrass C N P N N N CBarnyardgrass C P P N C C CCrabgrass C C C N C C CRyegrass C N P N C C CWild barley C N P N C C CWild oats C N P N C C CFescues P N C N N N N

PerennialsField bindweed P N N P N N NBermudagrass C N N N P P PDallisgrass P C N N C C CJohnsongrass C C N N C C C

C=Controlled P=Partial control N=Not controlled


Yolo County RCD Weed Hit List

The Yolo County RCD is forming aWeed Management Area (WMA)with the Yolo County AgriculturalCommissioner’s Office and otherconcerned entities. WMA’s are localorganizations that bring together land-owners and managers (private, city,county, state, and federal) in a county,multi-county, or other geographicalarea for the purpose of coordinating andcombining action and expertise in com-bating common invasive weed species.

To become involved in the localWMA, call the RCD. For informationabout WMAs, see the California WMAwebsite at www.cdfa.ca.gov/wma. Toform your own WMA, call SteveSchoenig at the California Departmentof Food and Agriculture, at916.654.9768 or e-mail him [email protected].

Grass Weeds

Jointed goatgrass Aegilops cylindricaBarbed goatgrass Aegilops triuncialisRip-gut brome Bromus diandrusJubata grass Cortaderia jubataPampas grass Cortaderia selloanaWatergrass Echinochloa crus-galliMedusahead Elymus caput - medusaeJohnsongrass Sorghum halepense

Broadleaf Weeds

Yellow starthistle Centaurea solstitialisPurple starthistle Centaurea calcitrapaIberian starthistle Centaurea ibericaRush skeletonweed Chondrilla junceaCanada Thistle Cirsium arvensePoison hemlock Conium maculatumField bindweed Convolvulus arvensisItalian thistle Corduus pycnocephalusDodder Cuscuta pentagonaKlamath weed/St. Johnswort Hypericum perforatumPepperweed/Whitetop Lepidium latifoliumCommon knotweed Polygonum aviculareRussian thistle Salsola tregusMilk Thistle Silybum marianumPuncture vine Tribulus terrestrisCocklebur Xanthium strumarium

Riparian Weeds

Tree of Heaven Ailanthus altissimaGiant reed Arundo donaxPurple loosestrife Lythrum salicariaHimelaya blackberry Rubus discolorTamarisk Tamarix parviflora

Acquatic Weeds

Water hyacinth Eichhornia crassipesHydrilla Hydrilla verticillataGiant Salvinia Salvinia molesta

This list of weeds does not necessarilycorrespond with the AgriculturalCommissioner’s lists or classifications ofweeds. It was generated by the Yolo CountyWeed Management Area. All of the weedslisted are extremely hearty invaders in ourvalley landscape. In many cases it is notenough to just remove them; their growthareas need to be replanted with desirablespecies. Plan ahead, as you may have towork at eradication for a couple of years inorder to significantly reduce the weed seedpopulation on your site. Contact UC Coop-erative Extension for appropriate use ofweed eradication chemicals or the RCDand NRCS on planning, planting, andmaintaining native plants.



Detailed information on the programsdiscussed below can be found in the document“Cost Share and Assistance Programs for IndividualCalifornia Landowners and Indian Tribes,”produced by University of CaliforniaCooperative Extension. It can be downloadedfrom their website at www.ceres.ca.gov/foreststeward/funding.

U.S. Department of Agriculture FarmService Agency (FSA) & NaturalResources Conservation Service (NRCS)CONSERVATION RESERVE PROGRAM (CRP)

The concept behind the CRP is to get highly erodibleor otherwise sensitive lands out of production in orderto reduce problems such as soil erosion andsedimentation that impact water quality and wildlifehabitat. This has been expanded to include riparianand hedgerow projects as well. Farmers who chooseto participate in CRP sign up for a minimum of tenyears and develop a conservation plan that takescertain acres out of production. In return, the farmerreceives annual rental payments on the land from thegovernment up to $50,000 per person per year.Participating farmers can also apply for 50% cost shareon implementation of conservation practices agreedto in the conservation plan. After the initial ten yearshave passed, CRP contracts can be renewed for anadditional five years. There is currently a continuoussignup for special projects such as riparian buffer strips,windbreaks, and wildlife habitat plantings. Contact yourlocal Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS)field office for more information.

STEWARDSHIP INCENTIVE PROGRAM (SIP)This program is administered mostly by the

California Department of Forestry in tandem with theFSA. Through the SIP, landowners can apply for up to75% cost share reimbursement performing a broadrange of resource management activities on their landsuch as: a management plan, tree planting (includinghedgerows), tree thinning or pruning, fuelsmanagement, erosion control, riparian/wetland

Cost Share Programs for Resource Conservation andWildlife Habitat Development

Paul Robins, Yolo County RCD

restoration, and fish and wildlife habitatimprovements on farmland. A property must contain20 to 1,000 acres of forestland (10% tree coverminimum) to qualify. For more information, call theStewardship Helpline at 800.738.8733.

ENVIRONMENTAL QUALITY INCENTIVES PROGRAM(EQIP)

This program replaces the ACP (AgriculturalConservation Program) and shifts cost-sharing focusfrom single-year practice implementation to 5-10 yearwhole farm conservation plans. Farmers interested indeveloping a wildlife habitat and conservation plan ontheir property can receive up to 75% cost-share,$10,000 maximum per year ($50,000 maximum percontract) on a plan developed in cooperation withNRCS and approved by the FSA County Committee.The District’s highest funding priorities are irrigated crop-and farmland. Practices approved for EQIP includeirrigation improvements, permanent vegetationestablishment, stream improvements, covercrops,fencing, and dams and pond development. For moreinformation, contact your local NRCS field office.

WETLAND RESERVE PROGRAM (WRP)The WRP is an easement and/or habitat restoration

program focused on restoring existing or convertedwetlands to those lands’ original wetland hydrology andvegetation. Dependent upon when funds are allocated,sign-ups typically take place in late spring or earlysummer. The NRCS cooperates with the US Fish andWildlife Service (USFWS) to determine the eligibilityof the land as well as help the farmer develop a planfor restoring the wetland. The farmer receives a cashpayment for three different types of agreements onhis or her land: 1) a permanent conservation easementwith 100% cost-share for planning and implementationcosts; 2) a 30-year conservation easement with 75%cost-share; or 3) a 10-year (minimum) non-easementrestoration agreement with 50% cost share for thedevelopment and implementation of the plan. Landseligible for WRP enrollment include riparian corridorsand uplands adjacent to wetlands. For more information,contact your local NRCS office.


EMERGENCY CONSERVATION PROGRAM (ECP)This program provides technical and financial

assistance to individual landowners for emergencyrestoration measures for new problems caused by anatural disaster. Eligible work includes removing debrisfrom land and roadways, grading and filling gullies,reestablishing permanent plant cover, and restoringfences, dams, ponds, irrigation and drainage systems,pipelines and other facilities. For more information,contact a local Farm Services Agency office.

EMERGENCY WATERSHED PROGRAM (EWP)This program provides technical and financial

assistance for emergency restoration measures for newconservation problems caused by a natural disaster.In contrast to the above-mentioned ECP, EWP supportis not geared to individual landowners but ratherlandowner groups. Eligible work includes removingdebris from land and roadways, grading and fillinggullies, reestablishing permanent plant cover, andrestoring fences, dams, ponds, irrigation and drainagesystems, pipelines and other facilities. For moreinformation, contact your local NRCS field office.

US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS)PARTNERS FOR FISH & WILDLIFE (PFW)

This program provides technical and financialsupport to the landowner interested in restoring wildlifehabitat on his or her property. USFWS will guide aninterested landowner through the process ofdetermining the possibilities of the piece of land anddeveloping a plan for developing habitat. Dependingon the project, landowners can apply for cost share onup to 50% of the cost for implementing the plan. TheFish & Wildlife Service’s emphasis in this program ison restoring habitats that protect special status speciesand that will be self-sustaining in the long run. Candidateprojects include creating shallow water areas,revegetating with native plants, and erecting fencealong riparian areas to exclude livestock. Interestedlandowners can call program coordinator DebraSchlafmann at 916.414.6456 or visit the USFWSinformational website at www.ceres.ca.gov/wetlands/introduction/partners.

Wildlife Conservation Board (WCB)INLAND WETLAND CONSERVATION PROGRAM (IWCP)

The objectives of the IWCP include theenhancement of wetlands and other wildlife habitat onprivate land. The WCB has set this program up sothat the interested landowner works together with a“local sponsor” (a local agency or non-profitorganization—an RCD is one example) to develop andmaintain a wetland project. The WCB can offer up to50% cost share through the local sponsor for the projectimplementation. The WCB can also buy conservationeasements on property that landowners would like tomaintain as wetland wildlife habitat. The program isfunded by the State Habitat Conservation Fund, whichis established for availability through 2020. For moreinformation, call the WCB Wetlands ProgramManager, Peter Perrine at 916.445.1109.

CALIFORNIA RIPARIAN HABITAT CONSERVATIONPROGRAM (CRHCP)

This is a statewide program created in 1991 tosupport efforts towards protection and restoration ofriparian habitat. Landowners interested in receivingprogram support must work with a local non-profitorganization or agency such as the RCD. The WCBwill support a project with the requirement that theapplicant and other partners provide at least 25% matchingcontribution, whether in funds or in-kind. Criteria forproject selection include: 1) inclusion in a larger watershedplanning effort; 2) benefit to many species, especially“listed” species; 3) physical link to other habitat in goodcondition. The WCB requests that landowners sign anagreement to maintain a project for at least ten yearsafter construction. For more information, contact programcoordinator Scott Clemmons at 916.447.1072.

California Waterfowl Association (CWA)& California Department of Fish and Game(CDFG)

CWA has an active program for wetland restorationand enhancement on both private and public lands throughthe North American Wetlands Conservation Act(NAWCA). This is a complement to their Wood DuckBox and Brood Pond programs. The overall purpose ofthe programs is to create spring and summer wetlands tosupport breeding waterfowl within agricultural areas inthe Sacramento Valley. Interested landowners shouldcontact Dave Patterson of CWA at 916.648.1406.

COST SHARE PROGRAMS FOR RESOURCE CONSERVATION AND WILDLIFE HABITAT DEVELOPMENT


Ducks Unlimited (DU)DU continues to have support available through

their Valley CARE program which works with privatelandowners to create wildlife habitat on farms. Moniesare also available for land improvements to allow winterflooding for habitat within the Central Valley ProjectImprovement Act (CVPIA) area through (b)22 monies.Cost share funds are also available from privatedonations. Contact Don Connelley or Peter Schmidtat 916.852.2000.

California Department of Forestry & FireProtection (CDF)VEGETATION MANAGEMENT PROGRAM (VMP)

The goal of this program is to provide incentivesfor using fire as a tool to control unwanted brush andother vegetation that create wildfire hazards. Benefitsinclude minimizing future wildfire suppression,maximizing watershed values, and improving thegrazing and hunting capacity of the land. CDF willcover the liability, plan for, and conduct a prescribedburn on private land. The landowner pays 10% or moreof the estimated cost, depending on land managementobjectives. Participants develop a management planfor the property with consideration of follow-uptreatments to enhance the effects of the burn. Jointprojects with neighboring landowners are encouraged.For more information, contact program manager KenNehoda at 916.653.2380.

California Department of Fish & Game(CDFG)PRIVATE LANDS WILDLIFE HABITAT ENHANCEMENT &MANAGEMENT PROGRAM (PLM)

The PLM seeks to enhance and safeguard much-needed habitat for California wildlife and, at the sametime, improve profits for ranchers and farmers,forestland owners, and managers. Through thisprogram, a landowner is enabled to offer fishing andhunting opportunities that start before or extend beyondtraditional seasons; modify regulated bag limits; issuetags or permits directly to individuals he lets on hisland; set and collect whatever access and service feesdesired; and eliminate payment of additional feesnormally required for hunting. The program also helpsdevelop non-hunting activities like bird watching,photography, camping, and hiking. To participate, a

landowner must complete a habitat assessment; developand receive approval for a management plan and paythe license fee; and must also make a five-yearcommitment to the program and maintain records ofprogress in improving habitat. For more information,contact Allison Torres at 916.653.9393.

An index of these and many other programs isincluded on the following pages. The index wasgenerated by Jeanne Wirka and Judy Boshoven ofthe National Audubon Society.

COST SHARE PROGRAMS FOR RESOURCE CONSERVATION AND WILDLIFE HABITAT DEVELOPMENT


INDEX OF ASSISTANCE OPPORTUNITIES FOR CONSERVATION PROJECTS

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The following three pages feature hypothetical farms and conservation plan options for funding sup-port from the organizations and agencies outlined in the previous section. These are meant to illustratewhat a plan might look like in dollars and cents and how much help one could realistically expect inexecuting one. The examples are all based on information from February 1998.

Cost-Sharing Options for Conservation PlansPaul Robins, Yolo County RCD

Conservation Project Cost and Funding Example #1

Joe Flat Farms160 acres of leveled row crop ground sloping east and south with irrigation canal on north border, county road

on south border, and access road and head ditch on west border:

Potential projects on Joe’s farm include:• ½ mile of canal bank stabilization with

permanent vegetation ($1800 + $250/yr.maintenance costs)

• ½ mile of insectary hedgerow ($3,700 initial cost+ $300/yr. maintenance for 3-5 years)

• 1 acre-foot tailwater pond ($6,600 installed [withreturn system, add $11,500] + $250/yr.maintenance)

• ½ mile of permanent roadside vegetation ($1500+ $260/yr. maintenance for about 3 years)

Without any help, Joe will spend over $25,000 in-stalling these projects and over $1,000/year maintain-ing them over 3-5 years. However, he can receivecost share support on all of the above projects if heenlists help from the programs below:

The Environmental Quality Incentives Pro-gram (EQIP) would reimburse him for up to 75% ofthe costs of all of the above practices, namely $1,350for the canal work; $2,775 for the hedgerow planting;$10,000 for the tailwater return pond; and $1,125 forthe roadside grass planting. This would reduce his ini-

tial costs by $15,250 to $9,850. If he were to install apond without a return system, his total costs would becloser to $3,400. Although the cost of a return systemis initially high, he can count on a water savings ben-efit with irrigated crops of $2,000/season, meaning thatit would more than pay for itself within six years.

The Stewardship Incentives Program (SIP)could give him up to 75% support for the hedgerowplanting, but not in addition to the support he wouldreceive if he enrolls the hedgerow in the aboveEQIP program.



Beeswax Farms160 acres, 20 of which is taken up by a creek bisecting the property. The rest of the acreage is leveled for

row and field crops. The property is bordered on the north by a county road:

Potential projects on this farm include:• ½ mile of permanent roadside vegetation

($1500 + $260/yr. maintenance for about 3years)

• ~½ mile of creek channel improvementand riparian buffer strip ($14,000 +$570/yr. maintenance costs for 3-5 years)

• 1 acre-foot tailwater ponds ($6,600 eachinstalled [with return system, add $11,500]+ $250/yr. maintenance)

• 2 x ½ mile strips of insectary hedgerow($7,400 initial cost + $600/yr. maintenancefor 3-5 years)

COST-SHARING OPTIONS FOR CONSERVATION PLANS

Combination 1:

EQIP, as on Joe Flat’s farm, will reimburseBeeswax Farms up to 75% (with a $10,000 limitper practice) for all of these practices, paying $1,125for the grassed roadside; $10,000 for the creekwork; $20,000 for the two ponds, and $5,550 forthe two hedgerows, contributing a total of $36,675to the farm’s efforts.

The balance of the creek project cost can be metby signing up with the US Fish & Wildlife Service’sPartners For Wildlife (PFW) program and/or theCalifornia Wildlife Conservation Board’s CaliforniaRiparian Habitat Conservation Program(CRHCP), saving them an additional $4,000 of instal-lation cost. The CRHCP can also cover maintenancecosts, saving Beeswax farms an additional $2,850 overfive years.

Combination 2:

Beeswax Farms could opt to enroll the ground theylose in widening the creek channel in the Conserva-tion Reserve Program (CRP) in order to receivefederal rental payments ($50/acre on Class II soil) inaddition to cost-sharing for the work done. CRP wouldcover only 50% of the cost, or $7,000. Coordinationwith PFW or CRHCP could pay the balance of theproject cost, however.

They could sign up the rest of their practices inEQIP for the same sort of cost-share support as de-scribed in Combination 1.

Beeswax Farms can expect to spend almost $60,000 installing all of these projects if they undertake themwithout cost-share support. However, they can expect to substantially reduce their costs with help according tothe examples below:



Hobby Farms40 acres, a portion of which is leased out for agriculture, ten acres of which is in pasture, house and barn, and

fallow. The property faces a county road on its north side:

Potential projects on this farm include:• ¼ mile of permanent roadside vegetation ($750

+ $150/yr. maintenance for about 3 years)• Wildlife pond ($6,600 installed + $250/yr.

maintenance)• 2 x 1/4 mile strips of insectary hedgerow ($3,700

initial cost + $300/yr. maintenance for 3-5 years)

COST-SHARING OPTIONS FOR CONSERVATION PLANS

The Hobby family can expect to spend over $11,000 installing all of these projects if they undertake themwithout cost-share support. However, they can expect to substantially reduce their costs with help according tothe examples below:

Combination 1:

If they can coordinate with their tenant farmer foran additional conservation project, they could sign upfor EQIP support (it requires at least five distinctprojects). A simple one for the farmer to undertake iscovercropping, which would cost roughly $100/acrefor seeds and cultural practices, $75/acre of whichthe program would reimburse. That would mean a costof $750 to the Hobbys. If they qualify, however, EQIPwould pay for $8,250 towards the roadside, twohedgerows, and pond projects.

An additional $1,650 could potentially be saved byenrolling the pond in a PFW program or the WildlifeConservation Board’s Inland Wetland ConservationProgram (IHCP). The limitation for eligibility forthese programs is that the ground must have histori-cally been wetland before conversion to farming. Bylinking the pond with the hedgerow, however, the pond’shabitat value is enhanced and could receive specialconsideration.

Combination 2:

Funding can be pursued for the above projects (withthe exception of the roadside vegetation) on an indi-vidual basis without EQIP support. As under EQIP,the California Department of Forestry’s StewardshipIncentives Program (SIP) will support 75% of thecost of the hedgerows.

The pond could be funded in combination by thePFW and IHCP programs mentioned above. Bothprograms provide a maximum of 50% cost share;successful applicants could potentially cover almost100% of their costs. Another alternative for pondfunding would be through the CRP, which wouldpay the government’s rental rate on the ponded landand cover 50% of the construction and plantingcosts. CRP funding could be combined with PFWand IHCP funding for better cost coverage.



All Seasons Wholesale NurseryRon MotzP.O. Box 2128Elk Grove, CA 95759916.686.2583

Aquatic ResourcesP.O. Box 2169Sebastopol, CA 95472707.829.1194

Blue Oak Landscape Supply2731 Mountain Oak LaneRescue, CA 95672530.677.2111

Cache Creek NurseryFrancis Burke2815 Road 40AP.O. Box 85Rumsey, CA 95679530.796.3521

CCC Napa Native Plant NurseryP.O. Box 7199Napa, CA 94588707.253.7783

CA Dept of Forestry & Fire ProtectionL.A. Moran Reforestation CenterP.O. Box 1590Davis, CA 95617530.753.2441

Central Coast Wilds114 Liberty StreetSanta Cruz, CA 95060831.459.0656www.centralcoastwilds.com

Circuit Rider Productions9619 Old Redwood HighwayWindsor, CA 95492707.838.6641

Comstock Seed917 Highway 88Gardnerville, NV 89410775.746.3681Fax: 775.746.1701

ConservaseedP.O. Box 455Rio Vista, CA 94571916.775.1676

Cornflower FarmsAnn & Jeff ChandlerP.O. Box 896Elk Grove, CA 95759916.689.1015Fax 916.689.1968

Clyde Robin Seed Co.P.O. Box 2366Castro Valley, CA 94546510.785.0425Fax 510.785.6463www.clyderobin.com

Elkhorn Native Plant NurseryP.O. Box 270Moss Landing, CA 95069831.763.1207

Vendors & ContractorsAn incomplete list of service providers in the Northern California area

NURSERIES/SEED SUPPLIERS


Environmental Seed ProducersP.O. Box 2709Lompoc, CA 93438805.735.8888www.espseeds.come-mail: [email protected]

Freshwater Farms5851 Myrtle AvenueEureka, CA 95503800.200.8969www.freshwaterfarms.com

Harmony Farm SupplyP.O. Box 460Graton, CA 95444707.823.9125www.harmonyfarm.com

Hedgerow Farms21740 County Road 88Winters, CA 95694530.662.4570

Kamprath Seeds205 Stockton StreetManteca, CA 95337800.325.4621

Larner SeedsP.O. Box 407Bolinas, CA 94924415.868.9407Fax 415.868.2592

Native Here Nursery101 Golf Course DriveTilden Park, CA 94708510.549.0211

VENDORS & CONTRACTORS

Pacific Coast Seed6144 Industrial WayBuilding ALivermore, CA 94550925..373.4417800.339.8245

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply110 Springhill BoulevardP.O. Box 2209Grass Valley, CA 95945530.272.4769www.groworganic.com

Rana Creek Ranch35351 E. Carmel Valley RoadCarmel Valley, CA 93924831.659.3811Fax 831.659.4851www.ranacreek.com

S & S SeedP.O. Box 1275Carpinteria, CA 93014-1275805.684.0436Fax 805.684.2798

Sierra Valley FarmsP.O. Box 79Beckworth, CA 96129530.832.0114

Specialty GardensP.O. Box 567451Modesto, CA 95357209.527.5889

Sweetland Farm & Nursery27443 Sweetland RoadNorth San Juan, CA 95690530.292.9033

TS & L Seed Co.37331 Hwy. 16P.O. Box 359Woodland, CA 95776530.666.1239Fax 530.666.2910

Valley Transplants23000 Bruella RoadAcampo, CA 96220209.368.6093Fax 209.745.1115

Yerba Buena Nursery19500 Skyline Blvd.Woodside, CA 94062650.851.1668www.yerbabuenanursery.com

You Bet Farms15595 You Bet RoadGrass Valley, CA 95945530.292.9450


CONSULTANTS/CONTRACTORS

A & L Services, Inc.36445 County Road 31Davis, CA 95616530.757.2506

Balance Hydrologics1760 Solano AvenueSuite 209Berkeley, CA 94707510.527.0727

Bioengineering AssociatesEvan EngberP.O. Box 1355Laytonville, CA 95454707.984.8333

S.D. Carmack Dirt Moving1540 Caroleigh WayYuba City, CA 95993530.673.0313

Eco/Plan International3028 Esplanade, Suite AChico, CA 95973-4924530.345.1342

H.T. Harvey & AssociatesP.O. Box 1180Alviso, CA 94538408.263.1814

Jones and Stokes Associates2600 V Street, Suite 100Sacramento, CA 95818916.737.3000

Kelly & AssociatesEnvironmental Science216 F Street, #51Davis, CA 95616530.753.1232

Mervyn G. Clark ConstructionP.O. Box 75Sutter, CA 95982530.755.0596

John & Cathy ReyesP.O. Box 168Dunnigan, CA 95937530.724.3510

Sierra View LandscapeRiley Swift5729 Manzanita Avenue, #2Carmichael, CA 95608916.344.4943Fax 916.344.4704

The Reveg EdgeP.O. Box 609Redwood City, CA 94064650.325.7333Fax 650.325.4056www.ecoseeds.com/nature

Weigand Land Leveling, Inc.450 ProterSuite GDixon, CA 95620707.678.9466

Wetland Research Associates2169 E. Francisco BoulevardSuite GSan Rafael, CA 94901415.454.8868

Wood Bros., Inc.P.O. Box 216Lemoore, CA 93245.0216559.924.7715

VENDORS & CONTRACTORS

Documents

Bring Farm Edges Back to Life! - Practical Permaculture · 2011-03-30 · and beneficial insects back to your farm. Using native perennial grasses, flowers, shrubs, and trees, you