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Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail

Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

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Page 1: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail

Page 2: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

Bristol’s Floating Harbour was built at thebeginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809.The famous canal engineer William Jessop devised ascheme that impounded 83 acres of the tidal river Avon,meaning that for the first time ships in the port of Bristolcould stay afloat at all times – hence the (to modern ears)curious name.

For centuries, ships visiting Bristol had used the strong tidalcurrent to carry them the six miles between the city andthe mouth of the river Avon. Careful navigation was neededto ensure that they reached their destination before the tideebbed, forcing the ships to go aground at whatever pointthey had reached. The quaysides couldn’t accommodatemany ships and by the late 1700s lots more ships wantedto visit than could be fitted in.

The Floating Harbour allowed the city’s merchants tocontinue trading from their long-established warehouseson Narrow and Broad Quays, the Grove and the Backs. Atthe same time, it inadvertently allowed masses of room forport expansion over the next 150 years. Jessop didn’tintend this, but by placing the entrance locks at Hotwells,as far up the river as anyone believed a ship could safelytravel on one tide, he impounded far more of the river thanwas needed for trade at the time.

The Harbour complex also contains three miles of man-made waterways – the New Cut and the Feeder Canal. Theformer provided a tidal bypass for smaller vessels to enteror leave the Harbour further inland, at Bathurst orTotterdown locks. This delivered the barges and smallsailing vessels closer to the parts of the Harbour theywanted to use. The Feeder provided both a supply of freshwater to maintain the level of the Harbour and a route forinland waterways craft to rejoin the river Avon above theweir at Netham, on which they could journey to Bath andlater in the century to London.

The Harbour officially ceased to be part of the commercialPort of Bristol in 1975 and has since been the scene ofextensive regeneration. The extent of it – nearly eight milesof water across three miles of the city – makes for atremendously varied landscape. This booklet describesseveral trails that walkers and cyclists can follow alongsideall of these waterways. We encourage you to explore foryourselves the byways and mysteries that this uniquefeature of Bristol offers.

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Page 3: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

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Along the Harbour -Prince Street to Cumberland Basin

Page 4: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

Along the Harbour - Prince Street Bridge toCumberland Basin

Starting on the south (Wapping Road)side of Prince Street swing Bridge,travel westwards in front of L and MSheds, the home of the new Museumof Bristol (due to open in 2011).

Be wary of the sunken railway lines if you are cycling –they are very slippery in the wet and it is advised thatcyclists walk this stretch.

1 This is Princes Wharf. Before the wharf was built up inthe 1860s, it had long been a shipbuilding area, andit’s here that IK Brunel had his first ship, the GreatWestern built in 1837. The Great Western was one ofthe earliest steamships to cross the Atlantic. Later, thewharf was built up and a 7-storey granary erected onthe site. Everything here was destroyed during the Blitzon Bristol and the wharf was remodelled in the early1950s with new electric cranes, railways, flushroadways and transit sheds to handle general mixedcargo on ships from the Baltic and southern Ireland.

It was the last wharf to operate commercially when theHarbour closed in 1975. The transit sheds then becamethe home of Bristol Industrial Museum and now thenew Museum of Bristol in M-Shed. The Museumservice looks after the cranes and three historicvessels (the tugs Mayflower and John King and the fireboat Pyronaut) and operates a steam railway.

2 Further along Princes Wharf, you’ll see the Fairbairnsteam crane, finished in 1878. It was built to handleoccasional heavy lifts up to 35 tons. It is a ScheduledAncient Monument, but it still works and isdemonstrated by the Museum on some weekends.

(Just by the steam crane on the left is a cycle path thatwill link you to the New Cut at 36.)

As you approach the brick buildingahead, pedestrians can go to the right,onto the quay edge. Cyclists andwheelchair users must go to the left,into the roadway. TAKE GREAT CAREAT THIS POINT – CARS ANDTRAINS CONVERGE HERE AND THERAILS ARE PROUD OF THE ROADSURFACE.

3 The steam crane marks the start of Wapping RailwayWharf. From the 1870s, this was open quayside withrailway sidings where The Point residentialdevelopment now stands. Brunel’s Buttery has acitywide reputation for its bacon sandwiches!

4 At the end of Wapping Wharf is the Bristol Packet, fromwhere you can take a tour of the Harbour or, when thetide is right, have a trip down the Avon Gorge.

5 Beyond is Brunel’s s.s.Great Britain, the world’s firstiron passenger liner. This great ship was launched fromhere in 1843 and travelled the world’s oceans, beforereturning to Bristol as a hulk in 1970. By extraordinarychance, she now lies in her original building dock, andboth this and the ship have been restored to create aunique visitor experience.

At the s.s. Great Britain, turn leftonto Gas Ferry Road and travel 100metres.

6 On the left are the former main offices and studios ofAardman Animations, the Bristol-based company thathas produced the Wallace and Gromit series of filmsand the Oscar-winning Chicken Run. It was built in the1980s as a banana-ripening warehouse for Fyffe’s.Aardman’s later purpose-built offices and studios,completed in 2008, are further along the road on the left.

Just past the red brick warehouse onyour right, there is a pathway thatleads to the head of the Albion drydock.7 The dry dock on your right and the industrial buildings

around you are the last remains of a shipyard thatthrived on this site from 1820 until 1977. When theyclosed, Charles Hill & Sons were the oldest shipbuildingcompany in the UK, having been established in 1772.The Albion Dockyard extended across the whole ofwhat is now Bristol Marina. Boatbuilding and repair stillcontinues here on a smaller scale.

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Page 5: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

At the far end of the Yard, turn left tothe road. Turn right here and proceedtowards the swing bridge. Turn right atthe Nova Scotia pub.10 The water to your left here is Jessop’s original junction

lock into the Harbour from Cumberland Basin. It wasblocked after the new Junction Lock was built in thelate 1860s. The row of cottages on the far side wasbuilt for its employees by the Dock Company in the1830s and now houses a number of maritime organisations.

Retrace your steps to the bridge andcross the road carefully to a rampleading down to the quayside atCumberland Basin. Continue along theedge of the water towards the flyover.(Note: some people will find it impossible to cross thelocks at the far end of Cumberland Basin, although ac-cess up to them is good. Instead, cross the Harbourhere on Junction Lock Bridge and continue to thePumphouse at 17).

11 Cumberland Basin was one of the most expensiveelements of the Harbour to build. It was designed as ahalf-tidal basin, enabling more ships to arrive andleave safely for some hours either side of high tidethan could have been managed by locks alone.

12 As you approach the flyover, you’ll notice a blockedbranch to the left; this was the way in to the southernentrance lock, one of Jessop’s two originals and laterenlarged by IK Brunel. Under the flyover is anotherpiece of ‘Bruneliana’, a wrought-iron swing bridge thatoriginally crossed Brunel’s lock. It uses tubularconstruction that Brunel later adopted for his majorrailway bridges at Chepstow and Saltash.

13 The flyover is part of a major road scheme built in themid-1960s. It crosses the Harbour on the PlimsollBridge, named for Samuel Plimsoll, the shipping safetycampaigner who was born in Bristol. The bridge canopen and close in three minutes to allow shipping topass.

Beyond the building on the corner, turnright and head towards the gatedentrance to the Albion Dockyard. Youcan make a diversion here to lookaround but this is a working area, and,whilst you are unlikely to be preventedfrom wandering amongst the craftunder repair on dry land, you mustexercise due care.Continue to the left around the top ofthe Marina basin and to the right downthe slipway, veering to the left ontothe waterside walkway.8 This area is Baltic Wharf, once the home of several

timber yards where ships from the Baltic, Canada andRussia came to offload cargoes. The quayside wasnever built up, so that dockers had to run on plankslaid across barges between ship and shore carryinglong lengths of wood. The pub called the Cottage at theend of this stretch was once the office for one of thetimber firms.

Continue straight ahead past theCottage towards the Underfall Yard.This is another working area, and youshould exercise due care. (Note: if access through the Yard is closed for workingoperations, you can skirt around it by leaving throughthe green gate on the left onto Cumberland Road andfollowing Avon Crescent. You can also access the NewCut at 40 by carefully crossing Cumberland Road here).

9 The Underfall Yard is named after the sluices (‘underfalls’)that control the level of water in the Harbour. This iswhere the tidal river Avon was originally dammed (theOverfall dam, a form of weir) to create the FloatingHarbour in 1809, and remains the operational centre formaintenance and operation of all the lock gates, bridgesand leisure activities today. JB Girdlestone, DocksEngineer, mostly installed the facilities that you can seetoday in the 1880s and the Yard is now a ScheduledAncient Monument. Part of the Yard is operated by a Trustto encourage traditional boat-building and –repair skills.The haul-out slipway is in regular use to maintainvessels. There are interpretive panels to tell you moreabout the Yard.

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Page 6: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

Cross the lock gates on the walkwaywith care. Cyclists will need to wheeltheir bicycles. On the far side turnright and pass under the PlimsollBridge. There is a mark on the controlcabin to record the highest ever tide –over 40 feet (12.4 metres). Continuedown the side of the Basin to JunctionLock swing bridge and carefully crossthe road towards the Pumphouse pub.

Continue under the flyover onto thepromontory alongside the lock. Takeparticular care here on the unfencedquaysides with very long drops and deepwater. It is recommended that cyclistsdismount to explore this area. Start onthe left of the promontory, near thefixed wrought iron bridge.14 From the fixed bridge (a copy of Brunel’s swing bridge,

which was originally positioned here) you will havegood view of the remains of the southern entrancelock. This was the smaller of the two built by Jessop in1809, and much enlarged in 1845 by IK Brunel. It hadone large gate at each end, hinged on the left anddesigned to swing back into the curved recess that isusually visible. The right-hand side of the lock has aledge that was intended to allow clearance for thepaddle wheel on one side of the largest steamers atthe time, saving the cost of making the entire lock tothis width. You also get a good view of the CliftonSuspension Bridge from here.

(You can join the walk along the NewCut at 43 from here by continuingdown the left side of Brunel’s lock andheading to the left.)15 To the right of this lock are the remains of Jessop’s

northern entrance lock. It was here that the s.s. GreatBritain nearly came to grief as she left Bristol in 1844.At low tide you can see in the mud the gridiron, whereships could be dried out as the tide receded for minorrepair or inspection work on their hulls.

16 The current entrance lock was opened in 1873,replacing the earlier two. It can accommodate thelargest ships that can navigate the Avon. The lockgates were operated by the hydraulic system from theUnderfall Yard, but by 2010 this will have beenreplaced. From here it is six miles by water to themouth of the River Avon where it joins the Severnestuary. The tidal range there can be as much as 52feet (16 metres), and even here at the lock the riverrises as much as 37 feet (11.6 metres), covering thewhole promontory on some spring tides.

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Page 7: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

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Along the Harbour -Junction Lock to Prince St Bridge

Page 9: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

21 The Mardyke was traditionally a waiting area for shipswhen berths in the city centre were occupied. It wasbuilt up in the 1860s and became the mooring for theRoyal Naval Reserve drill ships Daedalus, and FlyingFox.

Continue to Capricorn Quay22 Capricorn Quay is the modern name for a residential

development on the site of the Lime Kiln Dry Dock. Thegrass area between the two blocks shows its outline.The dry dock closed in 1903.

23 The old roofless large stone buildings at the end ofCapricorn Quay are the last remaining structures ofCanon’s Marsh Gas Works. This was Bristol’s first gasworks, initially making gas from whale oil in the 1820sbut later converting to coal gas. The works remainedactive until the mid 1960s when natural gas arrived.

Continue round the harbour inlet andon to Canon’s Marsh as far as thetower with a weathervane on it – about500m24 Transit sheds close to the water and a railway goods

yard behind once occupied this heavily redevelopedarea. None of it existed before 1900 – the quaysidesand railway yard were part of a major expansion offacilities at the turn of the century. In the 1920s, hugeconcrete bonded warehouses for tobacco wereconstructed in this area too. These were blown upspectacularly in 1988 for the construction of the LloydsBank headquarters to begin.

25 The amphitheatre in front of Lloyds takes its radiusfrom the stone tower. This was originally the base for asteam crane, scrapped in 1969. The weather vane andturret were rescued from a demolished buildingelsewhere in the city and placed here in the 1970s.

Head up the ramp close to Lloyds andpast the four square columns intoMillennium Square.

Along the Harbour - Junction Lock to Prince Street Bridge17 The swing bridge was installed in 1925 to replace an

earlier bridge. John Lysaght & Co, a major Bristol-based structural steelwork company, built it. It bridgesthe Junction Lock, which links the Basin to theHarbour. It is rarely used as a lock today, but doeshouse the stop gates, which are closed when the tidein the river is expected to rise higher than the Harbourlevel. These are an essential part of Bristol’s flooddefence system.

18 The Pumphouse housed the original hydraulic pumpingsystem for operating the lock gates and bridges of the1870s locks. It was superseded by the Underfall Yardsystem in the late1880s.

Continue with the water on your righttowards the next bridge

19 Notice the brick remains of the railway swing bridgethat crossed the lock at its inner end, bringing theBristol Harbour Railway from Ashton swing bridge toCanon’s Marsh. Just beyond is the inlet for theentrance to the now-filled Merchants Dock. This wasbuilt in 1768 by William Champion as Bristol’s first wetdock and was operated for many years by theMerchant Venturers.

20 The next bridge crosses the former dry dock of theshipyard that was on the site, now called Poole'sWharf. Established by Hilhouse in 1772, it was lateroccupied by some of Bristol’s more pioneeringshipbuilders, including GK Stothert. Shipbuildingfinished here in 1904, but repair continued until the1930s, after which the area became a coal-importingyard and then the final home of Bristol’s sand-dredgingfleets. After they left in 1991, the area was redevelopedwith housing.

Continue past the housing here andonto the Mardyke.

14 15

Page 10: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

30 This side of the Reach is called Narrow Quay. Togetherwith Broad Quay (now landlocked to the north) this wasthe main trading wharf of the port for centuries. It wasconstructed alongside St Augustines Reach in the1240s. It remained Bristol’s principal wharf until themajor expansion of quaysides on Wapping in the 1860s.

Continue towards the end of the Quay. 31 The Architecture Centre is housed in one of the few

buildings that date from the time of the FloatingHarbour’s construction.

32 The last building on the Quay is the Bush warehouse,home to the Arnolfini art gallery. Originally built inabout 1833 as an anchor warehouse and offices by themajor Bristol engineering company Acramans, it wasexpanded in the mid 1830s in expectation of the teatrade coming to Bristol (although it never did).

33 Prince Street swing bridge replaced a drawbridge in1878. It is operated by water hydraulic power andswings regularly during the summer months. It is thelowest bridge in the Harbour. Before the FloatingHarbour was built, there was a ferry across the tidalriver at this point.

Cross Prince Street Bridge to 1.

26 The concrete building with the silver sphere attachedto it is the remodelled Great Western Railway goodsshed, one of the earliest surviving reinforced concretebuildings in the UK. It houses the hands-on sciencecentre Explore @t Bristol. Round the corner to theright is Anchor Square. The stone building on the rightwas Rowe Bros lead works, built here in the late 1890sto take advantage of the railway that was about toarrive here.

Continue toward the footbridge overthe Harbour.27 The bridge is called Pero’s Bridge for an enslaved

African boy who was brought to Bristol as a servant forthe Pinney family in the 1740s. He was one of very fewAfricans that came here; most were shipped directlyfrom Africa to the West Indies to be exchanged forplantation crops like sugar which was brought toBristol for processing, a triangular trade on whichmuch of the city’s wealth was based.

At this point you can cross the bridgemoving on to 30 in the itinerary. ORyou can turn left along the quayside tothe end of the water.

28 This stretch of water is called St Augustine’s Reach,after the abbey church of St Augustine (now BristolCathedral). The Reach was the course of the riverFrome, diverted into this man-made trench in 1247.The water once remained open for another 400 metresthrough what is now the city centre (you can still findthe end where the road is called Quay Head) but wascovered over in stages from the 1890s to the late1930s, initially to create a terminus for Bristol’s electrictramways system.

29 The last transit shed along the Reach, E Shed, (nowhome to the Watershed complex) has a very ornate endwall, designed to make the vista from the city centremore interesting when it was completed in 1896. Rightup to the 1960s, cargo ships tied up on this stretch ofwater, making the port very much part of the life of thecity.

Cross to the far side of the Reachand continue down the opposite side toPero’s Bridge.

16 17

Page 11: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

18 19

Today TodayThen

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20 28

24 30

Page 12: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

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20 21

The New Cut -Prince St Bridge to Cumberland Basin

Page 13: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

38 On the right, across Cumberland Road, there are threebuildings of note. Aardman Animations new studios andoffices (see 6) precede Gas Ferry Road. Next is theformer office building of Charles Hill & Sons,shipbuilders and operators of the Bristol City Line ofSteamships from 1820 until 1977, one of the city’slongest-lived companies. Finally, Spike Island Artspace,a former Brooke Bond tea-packing factory (25% ofBritain’s tea came through Avonmouth Docks duringthe 1950s and 1960s).

39 Vauxhall footbridge was built in 1900 to link thedeveloping suburbs Ashton and Southville with the restof the city via the Harbour ferries. It was designed toswing to allow masted vessels past, although it hasn'tswung since 1936. It is another of the bridges built byJohn Lysaght & Co in Bristol (see 80).

Continue along the path. (Steps to Vauxhall footbridge can beused as a link back to the Harbour at21 via Mardyke Ferry Road.)

40 The point where the path is constricted by a steel hutmarks the junction of the Cut and the original tidalAvon. This is where the dam was built to create theFloating Harbour and until the 1840s there was a weir– the Overfall – here to control the Harbour level.Sluices –the Underfalls – replaced its function andmuch of the land around it was reclaimed to create theUnderfall Yard (9). At low tide you can see the outletsfrom the Underfalls at this point.

Continue along the path.(A little further along, you cancarefully cross the railway and theroad to reach the Underfall Yard andthe Harbour walkway at 9.)41 Three very large red brick buildings dominate this area.

They were built as bonded tobacco warehouses by theCorporation so that the local manufacturers WD & HOWills could import large quantities through the port andstore it here. The first one you come to, A Bond, wasfinished in 1905, followed by B Bond (now the CreateCentre and Bristol Record Office) in 1908. The third (CBond over the river) was delayed by the First World Warand a fourth projected one was never built.

The New Cut – Prince Street Bridge to Cumberland Basin

From the south side of Prince StreetBridge, continue south on the righthand-side of Wapping Road. At themini-roundabout, turn right34 The curved section of stone wall on the corner and the

gateway a little further along Cumberland Road are thelast remains of Bristol’s New Gaol. Built in 1816, itsuffered considerable damage during the Bristol Riotsof 1831. It continued in use until 1883, with regularpublic executions on top of the gateway until 1845.

Cross the road at the lights 35 The ornate footbridge at the lights is Gaol Ferry Bridge,

built in the 1930s to replace the ferry that crossed theCut here. You can still see the ramps leading to theferry on both sides. The bridge is also a good viewpointfrom which to see the most spectacular section of theNew Cut.

Return to the road and turn left. Inabout 200 metres fork left down theramp to the waterside path

36 Known colloquially as the ‘chocolate path’ because ofthe resemblance of the paving blocks to chocolatebars, this waterside walkway was built when theBristol Harbour Railway linked Ashton Bridge withWapping Wharf in 1906.

37 The New Cut was dug as part of the scheme to createthe Floating Harbour in 1804-9. Its role was to create atidal bypass for smaller vessels that could lock in atBathurst lock (74) or Totterdown lock (85), allowing themain locks at Cumberland Basin to handle larger ships.It was used for this until the Second World War. Over1000 men were employed in digging it. A persistentlocal myth says that French Napoleonic War prisonerswere used, but the labour force was largely composedof English and Irish navvies, well experienced indigging canals across Britain. There are interpretationpanels along the Cut, placed here by the Friends of theAvon New Cut (FrANC).

22 23

Page 14: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

42 Ashton swing bridge was constructed as a two-levelrailway and road bridge in 1906. Another Lysaghtconstruction, it carried the Bristol Harbour Railwayextension that linked the main line to Wapping Wharfand Canons Marsh. It last swung in 1934 and wasfixed in place in 1951. The road deck was removed in1965.

Continue past B Bond and fork leftbehind the buildings below the flyover.Follow the footpath to the end of thepromontory. 43 There is a concrete memorial on the promontory

commemorating the completion of the CumberlandBasin flyover scheme in 1965. The view down thegorge to the Clifton Suspension Bridge from its seat isspectacular, but marred by the constant traffic noise.

Continue around the promontory to thefixed wrought iron bridge, which linkswith the Harbour walk at 14.

24 25

Page 15: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

26 27

TodayThen

Today - View from Suspension Bridge

Then Today Then

34

4240

Page 16: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

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Centre

Bus Depot

St Nicholas ofTorentino

Church

Church

ChurchChurch

St Lukes withChrist ChurchBarton Hill

Primary School

Barton HillInfant & Nursery

School

Hannah MorePrimary School

Arnolfini

M ShedBristol Museum

Hotel

Spike IslandArtspace

MaritimeMuseum

SouthvillePrimary School

SouthvilleCentre

Library

Church

Holy CrossRC Church

RNIB

Zion House

St Mary RedcliffeC of E Primary School

Bannerman RoadSchool

Church

GeneralHospital

Church

Amphitheatre

BerkeleySquare

CollegeGreen

QueenSquare

QuakersBurial Ground

Cemetery

Windmill Hill City Farm

SchoolPlaying

Field

St JamesBarton

St JamesPark

Sparke Evans Park

Castle Park

St Pauls Park

St Matthias Park

BrandonHill

VictoriaPark

Arno’s ValeCemetery

Rawnsley Park

Dame EmilyPlay Park

Federation of City Farms& Community Gardens

H.T.V.Studios

Bristol South Pool

Barton HillBaths

ss Great BritainThe Matthew

Cabot Tower

TheklaBalticWharfMarina

Floating Harbour

River Avon

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BARTONHILL

ST. PHILIPSMARSH

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TEMPLEQUAY

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Lawrence HillStation

Bedminster

TempleMeadsStation

St Philip BridgeSt Philip Bridge

Temple Bridge

Bristol BridgeBristol Bridge

Pero’sBridge

RedcliffeBridge

Prince StreetBridge

Footbridge

BedminsterBridge

Footbridge

BathBridge

TotterdownBridge

Footbridge

Footbridge

Footbridge

Refuse TransferStation

The MeritonYoung Parents

Education & Support

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The Inner Harbour -Prince St to Temple Meads

See inset

Page 17: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

49 Redcliffe Wharf was for decades the base for the LucasBrothers who traded with West Africa for palm oil, astaple in the manufacture of soap. Currently it is a basefor traditional boatbuilding and occasional eventswhilst it awaits redevelopment. Opposite the wharf isSevern Shed, now a modern restaurant, but also theearliest remaining transit shed in Bristol built for short-term storage of goods from steamships in 1865.

Continue along the quayside to theroad gate and cross the road at thezebra crossing to your right. Makeyour way to Redcliffe Bridge.50 The bridge was completed in 1942, and is a bascule

bridge (one which lifts to allow ships through). Thereare excellent views from it up Welsh (on the left) andRedcliffe Backs towards Bristol Bridge. The Backs arenamed such because they were once literally thebacks of merchants’ houses from where goods wereloaded directly to ships. Vessels from Wales frequentedWelsh Back, whilst Redcliffe Backs were named for theonce-autonomous township on this side of the river.

Cross the bridge to Welsh Back andfollow this to Bristol Bridge. You canpick your way along the water’s edgebehind the single-storey transit shedsand more modern buildings. 51 Redcliffe Backs on the opposite bank were lined for

most of their length with granaries and mills. TheWestern Counties Agricultural Society had a mill on thesite of the new flats by the bridge, and they also ownedthe next three buildings. The imposing red brickwarehouse was completed in 1910, a pioneeringconcrete framed structure; the less-glamorousneighbouring cheese warehouse is entirely concrete.Alongside this is an older red-brick warehouse fromthe mid 19th century.

52 Next, after a modern infill building that replaces agranary destroyed in the war, are the red brick towersof the Buchanan's Wharf development. These wereanother granary and mill built by Proctor Baker, aprominent local grain merchant and the chairman ofthe Docks Committee for many years at the end of the19th century. He later sold his business to Spillers, whomoved to Avonmouth in 1937.

The Inner Harbour – Prince Street to Temple Meads

Start at Prince Street Bridge, southside. Keeping the water to your leftmove east along the quayside to thecorner.44 This was Bathurst Wharf (now called Merchants Quay),

constructed in the 1860s and for many years the homeof transit sheds and an oil seed mill. On the oppositeside of the Harbour you can see the Thekla, a Balticcoaster brought to Bristol in 1983 to serve as a floatingentertainment venue, and River Station restaurant,once the River Police base, built in the 1950s. The lockat the end, now disused, leads into Bathurst Basin.

Continue to the footbridge.45 Bathurst Basin was part of Jessop’s Floating Harbour

scheme and was created by enlarging the mill pond ofthe tidal Trin Mills which had stood here since theMiddle Ages. At the far end of the Basin another lockled into the New Cut, used as an access by smallervessels bypassing the main entrance to the Harbour.Bathurst Basin could be used as a half-tidal basin. Thefootbridge stands on the site of a railway bridge (see 68).

(From the lock in the south westcorner you can cross the road and jointhe New Cut at 34)46 Bristol General Hospital was completed in 1858, with

its ground floor devoted to warehousing for shipsvisiting the Basin. It was used as a location of the BBCdrama Being Human in 2009. It is scheduled to closeas a hospital in 2010.

Cross the footbridge and turn left47 The Ostrich is one of remarkably few traditional

dockside pubs in Bristol. Above it is the splendidGeorgian Redcliffe Parade – worth a detour up thesteps for the view over the Harbour from the car park.

48 Continue past the old ferry slip onto Midland Wharf(renamed Phoenix Wharf in the 1970s for therenovation work funded here by Phoenix Assurance).There are metal plaques on the wall commemoratingthis and explaining about Redcliffe Caves, which youalso pass. The black wooden shed is named forBenjamin Perry, the tug and barge owner whose basethis was. Follow the quayside around the shed.

30 31

Page 18: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

58 On the opposite side of the Harbour are the remainingstructures from Georges’ Brewery (later Courage’s).There was a brewery on this site from the mid-18thcentury, run from 1788 by Philip George and his family.Next to it was Conrad Finzel's sugar refinery, thelargest of many in Bristol, which finally closed in 1881.The refinery sprawled around the corner as far as StPhilips Bridge, but part of it was redeveloped in 1900to create the tall red-brick building. This was the BristolTramways generating station, where the power forBristol’s tram network was created. In 1940, the bridgewas bombed, cutting off the supply to the wholenetwork and putting an end to the trams.

59 Part-way round the path crosses Castle Ditch, theremains of the moat that once surrounded BristolCastle.

(To avoid the steps at the end of thenext stage, turn left after Castle Ditchbridge and right onto Queen Street, thenright again to St Philips Bridge).Continue on the path to St PhilipsBridge and up the steps. Cross theroad carefully.

60 From the centre of the bridge, there is a good viewdown Temple Backs. This was once Bristol’s industrialbackyard, particularly on the left bank. From the bridgein about 1890 there was, in quick succession, a leadworks, an iron foundry, a glass bottle works, a whitelead works, a railway locomotive factory, a majorrailway bridge, a gas works and a soap factory. Theright bank wasn’t much more salubrious. There’s littleto show where any of these were, but the phallic-shaped shot tower, now part of an office development,was latterly part of the lead business here. This towerwas a replacement for the world’s first shot towerdevised and patented by William Watts in 1782 onRedcliffe Hill but demolished in 1968 for roadimprovements.

Cross the bridge and turn left intoTemple Back.61 On your left, integrated into a new building, is the

façade of the Central Electric Lighting Station, Bristol’sfirst generating station for electric street lighting. Itopened in 1893.

53 As you emerge from the sheds on Welsh Back at LittleKing Street, you should look inland for The Granary, agrain store built in the Bristol Byzantine style byarchitects Ponton & Gough in 1869. In the 1960s ithoused a well-known nightclub and has recently beenconverted into flats.

54 Also close to Welsh Back, in King St, is the LlandogerTrow, a pub in a 17th century half-timbered building,one of the last remnants of this style of building in acity once renowned for its early architecture. The pubtakes its name from the regular sailing barges thatcame from Llandoger in South Wales. Tradition has itthat Daniel Defoe met Alexander Selkirk here and wasinspired by his tales to write Robinson Crusoe.

55 Close to the end of King St, back by the water, is the‘bomb hole’, part of Welsh Back that was damaged bybombing during World War II and retained as amemorial. Alongside this is the Merchant Seamen’smemorial, commemorating those who lost their livessailing from Bristol.

56 Bristol Bridge is the reason for Bristol being where it is.In the early days of the city, this was the best point atwhich to cross the river and to which to bring shipsconveniently on one tide. A settlement grew around thecrossing from about 1000AD. The bridge was made apermanent structure about 1247 and replaced in 1769with the one seen today. Its roadway was widened inthe 1880s. It marks the limit of navigation for anyvessel that can’t pass beneath its arches.

At Bristol Bridge, cross to Castle Park.Continue through Castle Park, bearingright to keep close to the water.57 Castle Park has been formed from the centuries-old

commercial centre of Bristol that was destroyed bybombing in the Second World War. That centredeveloped on and around the site of Bristol Castle,which had been destroyed by Cromwell in 1647. Thereare interpretive panels in the Park that explain itshistory. On the Harbour wall, look out for the large figtree, one of many alien species that have arrived withshipping over time and continue to thrive.

32 33

Page 19: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

64 Temple Meads station was built in several stages. IKBrunel designed the first, a terminus, and this is thestone building on the right at the bottom of the ramp. Itopened in 1833 and closed to trains in 1965. SirMathew Digby-Wyatt completed the station that weuse today in 1878.

(From here you can join the Railwayroute at 65 or the New Cut route at69 or the Feeder Canal and River Avonroute at 75.)

Turn right into Water Lane and thenleft into Petticoat Lane alongsideNorfolk House. Fork left at thefootpath in the gardens62 This takes you into the gardens surrounding the ruins

of Temple church. As well as being a lovely place for abreak, it has a connection with the story of theHarbour. In 1791 its vicar, William Milton, proposed aNew Cut as part of the projected scheme. Jessopadopted his idea in the final plan, but Milton had towait nearly 20 years for recognition of his role.

From Temple church gardens, exit toTemple Rose Street in front of theCity Inn and turn left to rejoin TempleBack. Turn right and continue toTemple Way. Cross at the pedestriancrossing and turn left, back towardsthe bridge. On the right just before thebridge is a ramp leading back to thewaterside.

63 On the opposite bank is the site of Bristol’s last majorglass works, which closed in 1923, and the MidlandRailway’s goods warehouse. The Great WesternRailway maintained a stranglehold on the Harbour,effectively barring its competitor from obtaining a railconnection closer than this. Where you are standingwas the edge of the GWR goods yard, alongsideTemple Meads railway station and once the largestcovered goods yard in Europe.

Head up the steps or ramp away fromthe water and towards Temple Meadsstation. Follow the route into thestation booking hall, exiting againthrough the main doors to the right.Continue to the bottom of the stationapproach ramp.

34 35

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36 37

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38 393938

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Railway Route -Temple Meads to Prince St Bridge

Page 23: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

68 On your right as you approach the Ostrich you’ll seethe mouth of the tunnel exit. The railway crossedBathurst lock on a steam-powered bascule (lifting)bridge on the site of the present footbridge, beforecontinuing to Princes Wharf. You can almost follow itspath by heading through the archway ahead of you andstraight through the housing development. You willemerge on Wapping Road, where you turn right andyou’re back at Prince Street Bridge.

43

Railway Route – Temple Meads to Prince Street Bridge

From the bottom of the approach roadramp at Temple Meads station, crossTemple Gate and turn right. About 50metres further along, turn left intoRedcliff Mead Lane. 65 When the Great Western Railway finally agreed to build

a goods line into the Harbour, the route they chosestarted from the Temple Meads goods yard and ranparallel to Brunel’s station building, crossing the roadon a bridge behind the George & Railway pub andheading towards St Mary’s, Redcliffe church.

Ascend the slope. As you passSomerset Street, the road becomesPrewett Street. 66 On the right here is the base of Bristol’s last glass

cone, now a hotel restaurant. Glass made in Bristolwas world-famous and the city had many of these tall,distinctive structures. Nearly all had closed before1825, and this one spent the majority of its life ashome to H & T Proctor’s artificial manure works. It wastruncated in the 1930s when the upper structurebecame dangerous.

Continue to a footpath on the rightjust before Redcliffe Methodistchurch. Follow this to the junctionwith Pump Lane.67 Below the railings here can be seen the eastern mouth

of the railway tunnel underneath St Mary’s churchyard.The tunnel broke through the middle of Redcliffe caves.

Turn left into Colston Parade andcontinue to Redcliffe Hill. Turn leftand proceed to the pedestrian crossing.Cross here or use the underpass. Onthe opposite side, turn left and thenright into Guinea Street. Pass theentrance to the General Hospital and atthe bottom of the hill turn righttowards the Ostrich pub.

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The New Cut -Temple Meads to Prince St Bridge

Page 26: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

At Bedminster roundabout cross tothe far side leading to Coronation Road,and then cross the Cut and turn leftinto Commercial Road.73 Bedminster Bridge dates from 1883. It replaced the

cast-iron Harford’s Bridge that had been built to carrythe Bedminster road over the Cut in 1809. It wasdoubled with a concrete bridge in the 1960s.

Continue to the end of CommercialRoad74 The fixed swing bridge at the end of Commercial Road

spans the former lock entrance into Bathurst Basin.This lock enabled smaller craft to bypass theCumberland Basin system and enter or leave theHarbour nearer to their likely berths. It was blocked atthe beginning of the Second World War to stop theHarbour draining if the lock was hit by bombing. Thelock was permanently sealed in the 1952.

At the roundabout, you can turn rightto reach Prince Street Bridge, or youcan continue the New Cut walk from 34.

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The New Cut – Temple Meads to Prince Street Bridge

From the bottom of the approach roadramp at Temple Meads station turn leftto Bath Road Bridge. Don’t cross thebridge!69 When the New Cut was constructed, two new highway

bridges were installed, one here (Hill’s Bridge) andanother at Bedminster (Harford’s). Both were cast ironand supplied by the Coalbrookdale Company. In 1855the coal barge John collided with Hill’s Bridge,resulting in its collapse and the death of two people.The present bridge was built in the 1880s and anotherwas built alongside to double its capacity in the 1960s.

70 From the bridge, looking east, you can see the majorrailway bridge that carries all the southbound traffic ofBristol’s busy railway system. This bridge wasreconstructed in the 1930s as part of a governmentwork creation programme that saw massive expansionof Temple Meads railway station. Several of the newplatforms are carried on the bridge.

Cross the road at the crossingskeeping the water on your left and headalong Clarence Road. 71 Langton Street footbridge was installed here in 1883. It

was used first as a temporary bridge at Bedminsterwhilst a new one was built. Then two barges werebrought underneath it and, as the tide in the New Cutrose, these lifted it clear of its base. The barges werethen towed upstream and repositioned so that thebridge settled into its new position as the tide ebbed.

Cross the bridge and turn right alongYork Road.(Note: there are steps on the bridge. The alternative flatroute is along Clarence Road to the Bedminster round-about.)

72 The Victorian buildings along York Road are remarkablesurvivals in one of Bristol’s longest-runningconservation battles. Originally blighted by 1960splanning proposals to drive a new major road throughthe industrial areas of Bedminster, the houses werereprieved but remained derelict until the 1990s. Theirsurvival creates a pleasant backdrop for the New Cut;compare them with the 1950s and 60s councildevelopments on the other bank.

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John WesleysChapel

St. PetersChurch

Lead ShotTower

The Mall Galleries

RegisterOffice

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St MaryRedcliffe

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Hannah MorePrimary School

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Library

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HolymeadJunior School

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BroomhillInfant School

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Health Centre

Church

GeneralHospital

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QueenSquare

QuakersBurial Ground

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St JamesBarton

St JamesPark

St AnneSt Anne’s’sWooWoodd

St AnneSt Anne’s’sParkPark

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Sparke Evans Sparke Evans ParkPark

Avon ViewCemetery

St George’sPark

Castle Park

St Pauls Park

St Matthias Park

VictoriaPark

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Allotments

Arno’s ValeCemetery

Arno’s CourtPark

ConhamRiverPark

Rawnsley Park

Federation of City Farms& Community Gardens

School

Church

Library

H.T.V.Studios

Barton HillBaths

Showcase Showcase CinemaCinema

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River Avon

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ST. GEORGE

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ARNO'S VALE

THE DINGS

TEMPLEQUAY

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WINDMILL HILL

BRISLINGTON

Lawrence HillStation

Bedminster

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St Philip Bridge

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Bristol Bridge

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The MeritonThe MeritonYoung Parents Young Parents

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The Feeder Canal & River Avon -Temple Meads to Netham and back

Page 29: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

time this was the biggest galvanising works in theworld. Before Lysaght, the Acraman family used thesite for their Bristol Iron Works. This, too, was a majorindustrial undertaking, producing railway engines forthe early Great Western Railway and sectional ships. Itwas described as the largest iron works in Europe(perhaps an exaggeration) in 1840.

Continue along Silverthorne Lane, whichforks to the right at Lysaght’s Castle.In about another 150 metres, there is asignposted footpath on the right. Thisleads to a footbridge over the Feeder.Turn left off the bridge and follow thecycle lane along Feeder Road. 78 On the opposite bank of the canal, just after the railway

bridge, was the site of the Great Western Cottonfactory. The five-storey spinning mill was demolishedin the late 1960s, but there are still remnants of theweaving sheds in the industrial estate. The factory wasthe biggest cotton factory outside the north-west andthrived from 1837 until the 1920s, employing about1000 people from Barton Hill.

At Marsh Lane Bridge, cross the waterand then turn right onto the footpathalongside the Canal.79 On your left as you travel towards the lock is Netham

Recreation Ground. Known locally as The Brillos, thepark is the reclaimed spoil heaps of the NethamChemical Works, where alkali products such as causticsoda and ammonia were made for a century after1850. There is little evidence of it today.

80 On the opposite bank, occupying the whole of the areanow filled by an industrial estate was John Lysaght’sstructural steel works. Here many of the bridges thatspan the Harbour’s waterways, and many otherselsewhere, were designed and built.

81 Netham Lock marks the end of the Feeder Canal. Itplays an important role in Bristol’s flood defences; thelock gates here ensure that extreme high spring tidesthat come over Netham weir do not enter the city, andthat flood water from the inland river in spate aresimilarly excluded.

55

The Feeder Canal and River Avon – TempleMeads to Netham and back

At the bottom of the approach roadramp at Temple Meads turn lefttowards Bath Road Bridge and then leftinto Cattle Market Road. Go under therailway bridge (see 70) and continueuntil you reach the entrance to thederelict Post Office Parcels building.Turn in here and, keeping right, walktowards the water.75 Here you can see the right-angled junction between

the Feeder Canal, leading off in a straight line to theright and the Floating Harbour, off to the left beneaththe railway bridge. The narrow junction once held stopgates that allowed the Feeder or the upper Harbour tobe drained for maintenance. Turn back to the road. Inthe bushes on your left was once Calcraft (laterTotterdown) Lock, which allowed barges and smallervessels to lock in and out of the New Cut. You’ll see theremains of the lock at the end of this section of thetrail.

Turn left onto Feeder Road and thenleft at the traffic lights into AvonStreet. There’s a good view along theFeeder from the bridge. 76 Avon Street was traditionally associated with the

heavier industries in Bristol and the Feeder Canalconvenient extension of this after it was completed.There are many accounts of the smoky, chokingatmosphere that surrounded this area throughout the19th century and well into the 20th. On the corner ofthe junction was one of Bristol’s many soap works,neighboured by the Avon Street gas works, the first ofBristol’s coal gas production sites. This continued tooperate until the 1950s.

Continue up Avon Street and turn rightinto Silverthorne Lane. 77 About 150 m along here you will be confronted by

Lysaght’s Castle, a Victorian Gothic fantasy officebuilding designed for John Lysaght, whose worksoccupied all of the land on the left that you havepassed and more beyond. Lysaght made his fortunegalvanising corrugated iron and shipping this fromBristol to the developing colonies for building. At one

54

Page 30: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

(As a diversion, the footbridge leads toBath Road, via Edward Street andemerges next to the entrance to ArnosVale Cemetery and Paintworks.Otherwise, stay with the Walkway,which gives a good view of thePaintworks estate.) 85 The Paintworks was the base for Colthurst & Harding,

one of the numerous paint manufacturers based inBristol, as well as a wide range of small-scalebusinesses established after the Second World War onthe industrial estate. The estate is being redevelopedas a centre for creative industries. Just before the roadbridge on the opposite bank was the former boatyardof the Brown family who maintained barges here untilthe 1960s. At low tide you can see the tidal slipwaywhere barges were inspected.

86 The Walkway continues past the Dog’s Home on AlbertRoad and the railway bridge (the footpath over whichtakes you to Three Lamps and Totterdown). Eventuallythe path passes the remains of the Calcraft(Totterdown) Lock. By the Second World War, very fewvessels were using these locks, and they were blockedto avoid bomb damage emptying the Harbour.

The Avon Walkway emerges on CattleMarket Road, opposite the startingpoint of this trail. From here you canreturn to Temple Meads and pick upother routes at 65 or continue tofollow the New Cut from Bath RoadBridge at 69.

57

From Netham lock, return to FeederRoad and cross at the lights. Turn leftto cross the road bridge and turn rightinto Whitby Road. About 50 metresalong on the right is a good view ofNetham weir, down a half-hidden pathbehind the advertising hoarding.82 Netham weir governs the mean depth of the Floating

Harbour. Excess water spills over the top, but at timesof high spring tides the weir is covered and the currentis reversed for a few hours. The river Avon remainstidal at these tides as far as Hanham, a further threemiles inland.

Taking great care on this busy road,cross to the other side. Continuealong Whitby Road to the roundaboutwith St Philips Causeway, past arather spiritless stretch of industrialestate called Pioneer Park. This wasthe base for many of the factories runby the Bristol branch of the Co-operative Society.

At the Causeway roundabout, use thefootpath on the near side to cross thebridge. On the far side of the bridgeturn right onto the Avon Walkway path.83 The Walkway follows the unaltered stretch of the river

between Netham weir and Totterdown lock, where theNew Cut connects. The river is tidal and, although thereare few man-made features, you can get a glimpse ofvarious flora and fauna the live here. It’s a reallypeaceful part of the Harbour’s waterways. Look out inparticular for the grey wagtails, cormorants, gulls, andoccasional herons and kingfishers that live here.

84 You start in Sparke Evans Park, a public gardenpresented to Bristolians by PF Sparke Evans in 1902.He had made his money from the leather trade in thecity, particularly in sole leather for shoes. The parkgained a reputation for roses, because the level of sootfrom industry and railways locally helped to keep thempest-free. The park was connected to Brislington by afootbridge.

56

Page 31: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

595858

TodayThen TodayThen

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75

77

81

Page 32: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

60

This trail was devised and written by Museum of Bristol Project staff as part of Floating Harbour 200, a celebration of thebicentenary of the Harbour in 2009. Contact [email protected] to suggest improvements or additions.

The historic images all come from the collections held by Bristol Museums Galleries & Archives. They are a tiny selectionfrom over 3000 images of the Harbour. These can be seen by appointment only at the moment but will be available onlinein the future.

The modern photographs were produced by Chris Bahn and the booklet was designed by Naomi Winter, both of Bristol City Council.

For further information about the history of the Harbour see the book 'Bristol's Floating Harbour: The First 200 Years' byPeter Malpass and Andy King (Redcliffe Press 2009) or go to www.bristolfloatingharbour.org.uk.

Page 33: Bristol Harbour Heritage Trail Harbour Heritage Trail Bristol’s Floating Harbourwas built at the beginning of the 19th century and opened on 1 May 1809. The famous canal engineer

Designed and printed by Visual Technology, BCC. Job Number VT-09-333 NW

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