Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions · Range of Hair Additions • Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails, chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in which

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Chapter 19

Wigs and Hair Additions



“Make a game of finding something

positive in every situation. Ninety-five

percent of your emotions are determined

by how you interpret events to yourself.”

– Brian Tracy



Objectives

• Explain the differences between human hair wigs and synthetic wigs.

• Describe the two basic categories of wigs.

• Describe the various types of hairpieces and their uses.

• Explain several different methods of attaching extensions.



Important Role in Fashion

• Working with wigs and hair additions can be either a

simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most

clients buy wigs off the shelf or on the Internet.

• Wigs are rarely custom fitted today.

• Toupees are often custom fitted.



Range of Hair Additions

• Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails,

chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in

which strands are attached individually. Single strands

are hand-tied onto individual strands of natural hair

(which requires specialized training).



Wigs

• Human hair test

• Human hair advantages

– More realistic

– Greater durability

– Same styling and maintenance as

natural hair



Disadvantages of Human Hair

• Climate reactions

• Required resetting after shampooing

• Oxidizing color

• Breaking and splitting hair



Synthetic Hair Advantages

• Strength and durability

• Great value

• Pre-set style and texture

• Almost unlimited color selection

• No fading or oxidizing with sun exposure



Synthetic Disadvantages

• Low tolerance to extreme heat

• Traditional haircolor not recommended for

• Unnatural shine and thickness

• Correlation between price and quality



Quality and Cost of Human Hair

• Top of line: European

• Second: Indian and Asian

• Third: mixture of human and animal hair

• Fourth: human hair mixed with synthetic hair



Wig Selection Questions

• What is it made of?

• Natural or artificially colored?

• What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity?

• Is the cuticle intact?

• Is it fallen hair?



• Is it tangle free?

• What is the condition?

• Does color match client’s?

• Can it be permed?

• Will it last for four to six months?

Wig Selection Questions (continued)



Wig Defined

• An artificial covering for the head consisting of a network

of interwoven hair. A wig completely conceals 100

percent of the natural hair.



Hair Addition Defined

• A hairpiece or small wig

used to cover the top or

crown of the head, or a

hair attachment of some

sort



Types of Wigs

• Cap: often hand-knotted

• Capless: machine-made

– Light and comfortable

– Allow scalp to breathe

– Ready for immediate wear



Construction Methods

• Hand-tied or hand-knotted

• Semi-hand-tied

• Machine-made



Taking Measurements

• Each manufacturer has its own form to fill out that notes

the required measurements.

• Follow those specifications using a soft measuring tape.



Blocking the Wig

• A block is a head-shaped form usually made of canvas-

covered cork or styrofoam. It is used for fitting, coloring,

and sometimes styling.

• Six sizes, ranging from 20 to 22 inches

• Swivel clamp: used to hold block, allowing for greater

control when styling



Putting On and Sizing Wig

• Secure hair

• Shorten wig from front to nape (horizontal tuck)

• Shorten wig in back (vertical tuck)



Wig Tools and Implements

• Boar-bristle brush

• Soft measuring tape

• Duckbill clips

• Hair and bobby pins

• Neck strip

• Specialized needle and

thread

• Specialized products

• T-pins

• Wig block

• Wig caps



Toupee Tools

• Block

• Clips

• Specialized adhesive

• Specialized needle and thread

• Specialized tape

• T-pins



Cutting the Wig

• Objective: to make hair look realistic

• Taper ends to make shape look less solid.



Basic Cutting Methods

• Cut on head block.

• Comb out and finish on client.

• Free-form cutting



• Practice cutting.

– Begin with shadow cut.

– Cut second wig dry.

– Repeat exercise with other tools.

Basic Cutting Methods (continued)



Styling the Wig

• Use low heat.

• Treat gently and kindly.

• Use soft-bristle brushes.

• Use block for coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut

outline.



Styling Tips for Hairline

• Choose products carefully.

• Backcomb gently.

• Blend client’s hair into wig hair.

• Employ wind test.

• Create little imperfections.



Wig Cleaning

• Follow manufacturer’s directions.

• Use gentle, acid-balanced product.

• Avoid sulfur-based or dandruff shampoos.



Coloring Wigs and Hair Additions

• Color rings: 70 colors, from black to pale blonde

• Range from black to pale blonde

• Most common color level: 1

• White yak hair for fantasy colors

• Check cuticle

• Always strand test

• Conduct regular color checks



Perming Wigs

• Perm human hair wigs only.

• Cover wig block.

• Pin securely to head form.

• Perm as normal.



Hairpieces

• 20 percent to 70 percent coverage

• Usually temporary (not worn at night)



Hairpiece Types

• Integration hairpieces (natural hair is pulled through

openings to blend with hairpiece)

• Toupees

• Fashion hairpieces



Toupees

• Temporary attachment

• Semipermanent attachment

• Custom designed



Fashion Hairpieces

• Wraparound ponytail



• A cascade of curls attached with a comb

Fashion Hairpieces (continued)



• Hair wrap

Fashion Hairpieces (continued)



Hair Extensions

• Determine length/thickness needed.

• Determine desired look and map it.

• Stay 1 inch away from hairline.

• Ensure base does not show.

• Match curl pattern.

• Fewer extensions needed for curly hair.



Professional Approach

• Safety for client’s hair

• Comfort

• Security

• Style and fashion



Braid-and-Sew Attachment

Extensions are secured at base of client’s own hair by

sewing. Hair is attached to an on-the-scalp braid or

cornrow that serves as the track. Tracks may be

positioned horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along

curved lines that follow the contours of the head. Fiber

filler may be used to help grip the client’s hair and create

a longer-lasting braid to attach weft.



Braid-and-Sew Attachment Procedure

• Partings

• Size of sections

• Hidden ends of braids

• Position tracks 1 inch behind hairline

• Blunt, custom-designed needle



Lock Stitch

• Cut thread and pass needle through weft.

• Create loop and pass needle through loop.

• Pull loop tight to lock stitch.



Double-Lock Stitch

• Duplicates lock stitch.

• Thread is wound around needle twice to create the

double lock.



Overcast Stitch

• Pass needle under track and weft.

• Bring needle back over to make new

stitch.

• Repeat stitch along track to end.

• Complete with lock stitch.



Braid-and-Sew Advantages

• Very safe

• Requires no special equipment



Bonding Procedure

• Section off hair at nape.

• Measure first weft.

• Lay weft on flat surface.

• Use consistent amount of adhesive.



• Hold for 20 seconds.

• Blowdry to seal.

• Proceed to next section.

• Avoid working too close to crown.

• Perform patch test.

• Do not perform on damaged hair.

• Avoid exposure of wefts to oil.

• Avoid bonding to wefts 12 inches or longer.

Bonding Procedure (continued)



Removing Bonding

• Dissolve adhesive bond with oil or bond remover.

• Technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are

cut into very small sections.



Bonding Advantages

• Affordable and timely

• Can be gently shampooed



Bonding Disadvantages

• Allergies to ingredients in adhesive

• Patch test

• Inappropriate for severely damaged hair

• Exposure to oils



Fusion Bonding Method

• Expensive and time consuming

• Harmonizes with natural hair

• Light and comfortable



• Lasts up to four months

• Wrapping a keratin-based strip

• Extension strand under natural hair

Fusion Bonding Method (continued)



• Heating element applied

• Bond rolled between fingers

• Hair more quickly dried

• Variation of colors

Fusion Bonding Method (continued)



Linking

• A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a

parting. The link slides close to scalp using a special

tool. The extension is inserted into link.



Linking Issues

• Link is pinched flat with pliers.

• If removed properly, link can be reused.

• Natural hair should be 5 or more inches long.

• Styling versatility is a plus.

• Method is expensive and time consuming.



Tube Shrinking

• The client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into

a tube that is then heated to shrink it. The method

requires special tools and training.



Tube Shrinking Issues

• Follow logical placement pattern.

• Pay attention to natural growth patterns.

• Provide home-care instructions.

• Clients must follow home-care instructions.

• Regular salon follow-up required.



Retailing Hair Addition Products

• Identify client’s needs.

• Explain value of investment.

• Describe features and benefits.

• Discuss performance and cost.

• Choose high-quality pieces.

• Believe in recommendations.

• Price appropriately (based on time spent, materials,

expertise, and local market).



Practice

• The more practice you have with hair extensions, the

more skilled you will become.



Summary and Review

• What are the main advantages and disadvantages of

human hair wigs and synthetic hair wigs?

• What are the two basic categories of wigs?



• What are the three types of hairpieces, and how are

they used?

• What are the five methods for attaching hair extensions?

Describe each.

Summary and Review (continued)



You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.

Congratulations!

Documents

Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions · Range of Hair Additions • Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails, chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in which