Upload
truongxuyen
View
217
Download
1
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Climb KamloopsGuide Book
by Trevor Lott
Version 0.1 - Spring 2010
HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR GUIDE BOOK
This book is designed to be printed and put together. If you follow theseinstructions, use good paper and a reasonable printer (ideally a colourprinter), you'll have a good looking guide that will help you spend moretime climbing and waste less time route finding.
- Choose Landscape printing on High Quality colour setting.- Do not print page one (this page).- Print page two (the cover) on strong paper, if you have it.
Printing
Assembling
Foldpages in
half
1 2Insert folded pagesinside cover page
3Fasten with
staples
Climb Kamloops
Welcome to Kamloops. I hope that you find this guide useful and accurate asyou explore the area. Through publish/print on demand, this guide book isupdated frequently based on climber feedback so feel free to send commentsto [email protected]. The feedback will be rolled into newversions of the guide which will be posted on climbkamloops.ca.
This guide would not have been possible without the kind support of manymembers of the climbing community. First and foremost my thanks to the many local fanatics including Garry Brace, Brian Nuttall, Ken Attwood, SimonGriffin, Alejandro Lyle and Bruce Stover for their countless hours (and dollars!) required to find, clean and equip the routes we enjoy today. Withouttheir enthusiasm, and willingness to share we'd be....mountain biking.
A special thank you to Rockfax, the gold standard in climbing guides and thegiant whose shoulders I stand upon, for inspiration to write this guide and fortheir generous loan of the icons within this guide.
And finally, thank you to my wife and climbing partner, Paula. At almost half ofmy weight, she has twice the motivation as me to climb and explore new areas, and always gives me a soft catch.
Do Not Print This Page
by Trevor Lott
Version 0.1 - Spring 2010
Climb KamloopsGuide Book
KamloopsSavona
Cache Creek
10 km
Kamloops Lake
Prickly Pear CanyonThe Beach
Roche Lake
Monte Creek
Hen House
Spences Bridge
Dairy Creek
Chicken Little
N
11
1
5A
5
97
97 5
Roche Lake is crown jewel of the Kamloops climbing scene. With fine routes on quality rockand a quiet forest setting, not to mention a short approach, it's easy to see why the areais a favourite. The area features 29 single pitch routes, up to 23 m, including the hardestroutes in the Kamloops area.
ConditionsAs a west facing crag, the area receives its sunshine in the afternoon. Pockets of trees ensurethat there are always slivers of shade before the early evening when the sun begins to descendbehind the trees. While this makes climbing in the heat of summer a possibility, the altitudeand restricted exposure means you're likely to have snow in the area, or a muddy access intoearly May. Take insect repellent in the spring.
Getting There GPS: +50° 29' 49.50", -120° 11' 51.18"While the area isn't difficult to find, the extra detail below will ensure that no one gets lost.Portions of the road can be muddy, rocky or quite loose. Most cars can manage but a truckor 4x4 will make the trip a little more comfortably.
The Roche Lake climbing area 34 km south of Kamloops. From Kamloops, take the 5Ahighway south towards Merrit. Reset your trip odometer in Kamloops at the collection of gasstations on the corner of highway 5A and Rogers Way. Travel south 23.5 km to the wellsigned start of Roche Lake Road. Travel east on Roche Lake Road for 7.3 km (odometer 30.8 km) to the entrance sign of Roche Lake Provincial Park. From the sign, continue lefton the road for 400 m to another fork and turn left (odometer 31.2 km). Continue straight
for 700 m before turning left (odometer 31.9), turning right will take you to Bleeker Lake. Ignoringthe smaller private roads that branch off, continuestraight along this road for 2.5 km (odometer 34.4 km). The climbing wall will be on your right andwill not be visible until you are right next to it.
Approach - 1 minutePark within the pull-outs or along the side of theroad. The trail descends steeply for 15 m beforereaching the forest floor immediately in front of thewall. The trail forks from there to reach variousportions of the climbing area.
A handful of routes, not covered in this guide arefound 7 minutes to the east if you follow the trailuphill.
P
approx. 100 m
N
Roche Lake - Left
Bleeker
Lake
5A
Roche Lake
approx. 1000 mto Kamloops
Roche LakeProvincial Park
Roche Lake Road
Park EntranceSign
N
TrappLakeRoad
1 Boogie Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 The easiest route in the area.
6 Denise's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Start up the ramp.
5 Wild Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.9A quality route with a variety of interesting moves and big holds.
2 The Sweep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 Make use of incuts on the slabby wall and make your way to the chainswrapped around the tree.
4 Unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8
Roche Lake - LeftThe northern most portion of the climbing area can be seen from the parking pull out andis easily reached by taking the left trail as you descend from the road.
1 2
3
45
6
3 The Pea Pod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 5.8
Phot
o co
urte
sy o
f Gar
ry B
race
Roche LakeROCHE LAKE1 min
1 2
Roche Lake
Roche Lake - Left Centre
Roche Lake - Left CentreThe left centre portion of Roche Lake is easily landmarked by the prominent roof.
7
8
9
10 1112
13 14
15
Phot
o co
urte
sy o
f Gar
ry B
race
Roche Lake
The 5th Day of Christmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 5.12d
13 unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . project
Evil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 5.12c
18 Airheads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11d
16 Something Totally Inappropriate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12b
14
15
16
17
18
Roche Lake - Right Centre
Thin face climbing leads to an awkward crux at the last bolt.3 Hard Day At The Office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5.10b
Palmer's Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 5.9+Sustained face climbing on thin holds..
Sustained face climbing on thin holds..Midnight Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 5.10a
The direct finish goes at 5.10b.
A chimney route that ends at a pair of bolts.unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ?
As in Not A Sport Route. Two bolts protect the start.NASR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 5.10d
14 Good . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10dA short route that packs in a surprising amount of movement..
17 Going South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12aNot so much as climb, as a series of distinct cruxes. Certain to keep your attention.
3 4
Roche Lake
Roche Lake - RightThe right (south) portion of the wall hosts a collection of the best routes in the areafor the grade with lengthy, well bolted lines on compact and slightly overhanging rock,featuring (mostly) positive holds.
Roche Lake
Roche Lake - Right
1920
22
23
21
2524
Roche Lake - Right
20
2221
23 24 25 26 27
28
26 Crash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12b Not shown in picture. Start to the right of "Juice" andfollow a broken arrete.
Brass Monkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 5.10a
Local lore claims that skipping the last bolt makes thecrux sequence easier. The extension to the secondset of anchors is "The Fresh End" at 5.13b.
Killing Yourself to Live. . . . . . . 19 5.13a
20 Flick of the Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12dStart on "Killing" and finish on "Fedoras". Theextension to the second set of anchors is "Flicked It"at 5.13a.
Roche Lake - Right (continued)Landmark using the tree leaning on the wall on the right. The first route on the leftof the tree is "Separating Sanity", the first route on the right of the "Juice".
Three tough moves on sharp, tiny crimps have earnedit the name "the stupid climb" amongst locals.
Separating Sanity . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 5.11d
Save something for the pumpy bulge.The Verdict . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 5.12a
An excellent route whose popularity is making it a tadpolished. The finishing move is the reach for the chains.
Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 5.11a
Big moves on juggy holds. Good luck getting off theground if you're short.
Juice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 5.11a
You'll understand the name when you're movingbetween the last bolt and the chains.
Flight Risk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 5.11d
25 Circumstantial Evidence . . . . . 5.11dMove right when you hit the roof to step onto theface and navigate a cruxy sequence of side-pulls. Milkany rest of you can find before taking on theremaining face.
21 Men in Fedoras . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12cStart up "The Verdict" to a roof and large horizontalcrack system. Use good holds within the crack totraverse left before continuing up on small holds. Finish on the chains for "Flick the Switch"; continuingup to the higher anchor will earn you a 5.13a.
5 6
7 8
87
1 The Pigeons Were Talking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tucked behind a corner, 20m left (west) of the main wall.
6 Spanish Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stick to the arete on the right when the holds become thin and the rockbecomes brittle.
Easier than it looks from the ground; the crux lies in finding holds to the finish.
8 Tweezers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7 Propriorception . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Work the face and arete before moving into the crack.
3 Beware the Prickly Pear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pumpy, even more so if you can't find the hidden holds around the arete.
5 Passion is a Remedy Against Boredom . . . . . . . . . . Nice moves and good flow, leaves you wanting more.
Prickly Pear Canyon
2 3 4 65
PRICKLY PEAR CANYON
2 The Spanish Indecision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Short. The crux move is the reach for the triangle anchor.
4 Something to Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5.12a
5.8
5.10c
5.9
5.10a
5.10d
5.10c
5.9
Savona
Cache Creek
10 km
Prickly Pear Canyon
Kamloops Lake
97
ConditionsThe south facing rock is best climbed in the early spring or late fall, before the summer sunturns it into a basalt solar oven. However, the area moves into the shade in the late afternoonand cool air seeps from the canyon making it a nice after work escape during the long summerevenings. Beware of the Poison Ivy deeper in the canyon and of course, watch out for the Prickly Pear cacti that adorn the ground at the base of the routes.
As a new area, loose rock is common here: wear your helmet.
Getting There GPS: +50° 78' 89.54", -121° 78' 85.55"Prickly Pear Canyon is 28 km west of Savona (reset your trip odometer at the Super-Savegas station) and 10 km east of Cache Creek. The canyon is located approximately 150 mnorth of the Trans-Canada highway.
barbed wire fence
dirt road
P
approx. 100 m Approach - 4 minutesPark on the side of the highway, near the BC Hydroaccess gate. Just beyond the gate you'll see an old dirtroad, follow it east (right), approximately 250m, untilyou see a trail (left) leading to the canyon.
Please note that this area is on leased land and thatclimbers should keep a low profile. Do not hop thebarbwire fence (use the access gate). Stay on theestablished trails, avoid damaging any fencing, don'tlitter and clean up any garbage you find.
Prickly Pear Canyon is a new development west of Kamloops. The area features vertical basalt columns on good quality rock with routes up to 13 m high. While it won't keepyou busy for a full day, the short approach makes it is a nice place to knock off a few routes on rock that differs from the other local crags.
N
N
1
1
1
Park alongside of highway
4 min
gate
The BeachTHE BEACH
A great view, a comfortable base area and a collection moderate grades makes The Beacha popular climbing area in Kamloops. Most routes are on good quality vertical and incutladen rock ranging from 7 m to 20 m in length. The sport routes are well bolted and havefixed chain anchors.
ConditionsWith its north face and pleasant lake view, The Beach can be a peaceful and comfortableoasis during hot summer days. The sun eventually reaches the rock face but not until laterin the evening which also makes it an ideal place for after work climbing. The area is quickto dry out in the spring or after passing showers.
Getting There GPS: +50° 45' 4.08", -120° 43' 36.36"The Beach is located along the Trans-Canada Highway, west of Kamloops, 24.5 km west ofhighway 5 or 9 km east of Savona. Park within the public rest area on the north side of thehighway.
KamloopsSavona
10 km
Kamloops Lake
The BeachN
1
5A5
5
1
Approach - 8 minutesPark within the rest area andlook for the gate next to thelarge information signs. Takethe left trail up to the top ofthe hill and follow it (west) asit descend and turns east.
fence
approx. 100 m
P picnic area
N
1
34
5
56
7
The Beach - RightThe left (west) portion of the main wall at The Beach contains the first group of routes you will encouter from the trail in.
The first two routes approximately 15m right (west) of Needles on the Beach.
The farthest route on the right (west) side of the crag.1 Unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.4
A couple of tough moves up to the second bolt give it the grade beforeit eases off.
5 Burnt and Peeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10c
7 Bawanna's Vendetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11b
2 The Gift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.7
4 Impermenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Sustained moves on thin, crimpy holds.
21
3 Needles on the Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b The first route you'll find from the parking lot approach.
Interesting moves off the ground before the route fades off into the crack.6 Little Crack 1/2 Way Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10d
8 min
to parking
The Beach - Right
9 10
The Beach
11 12
The Beach
to parking
The Beach - Right CentreThe centre portion of the main wall can be best landmarked by finding the large offwidth crack that spans the height of the crag.
rock gulley
Just like its neighbour, but harder.8 Cottage Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10d
Short and steep.9 Sound of One Wave Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a
Sod Wrestler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 A deservedly popular introduction to outdoor face climbing.10
Sustained and well protected climbing.Wolly Bully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a/b 12
Jealosy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 14
Going Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Gear is only required if you climb past the first station where two boltswill get you started toward the crack that requires a couple of small pieces. 30m from the ground to the top.
11
Climb the crack and finish on Jealosy.Riptide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a 13
to parking
891011121415
rock gulley
13
Fairies Wear Boots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 15
A fine route with a variation start (right) at 5.11b.
The Beach - Right Centre
to parking
The Beach - Left CentreAnother full height fissure in the wall landmarks a cluster of routes.
rock gulley
19 17
18
Shares the anchors with Exodus.Lichen in my Eye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 16
Exodus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10c A pair of powerful pulls and delicate balancing moves keeps your mind from wandering.
17
Start on the face, left of the arrete. Named for the tiny hidden incuts thatare critical for the lower half, the upper half eases off a lot.
Where's Waldo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11a18
A nice long route up the arrete.The Voices Told Me . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.9 19
16171819to parking
The Beach - Left Centre
The BeachThe Beach
to parking
The Beach - LeftThe centre portion of the main wall can be best landmarked by finding the large offwidth crack that spans the height of the crag.
rock gulley
to parking
20212223
24
24
Static Cling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11c/d Thin and smooth off the ground..21
A fun route with a challenging roof to pull over at the end..Punch the Monkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a 22
Quality moves on vertical rock..
Tachycardia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11a 24
Considered a dangerous route and probably named by the firstascensionist.
Never Again . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 23
Climb the crack and finish on the anchors that complete the routes onthe left.
Seamstress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 20
The Beach - Left
14 15
The Beach - LowerNew development, among the handful of old and seldom climbed routes, is beinglooked into by Mitchell Forgie. New routes will be added into this guide in thenear future.