Clock Plan

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From Woodsmith Magazine page 1 ©2003August Home PublishingOne copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited. All rights reserved

Plans N O Ww w w . p l a n s n o w . c o m

®

Cherry hardwood case, brass clockworks, and a classicclockface make this woodworking project a familyheirloom that will last for generations.

Most of the clocks I’ve built have been designed to hangon a wall or sit on a table. But this Tall Case Clock is morethan just another timepiece — it features brass clock-

works and is an impressive piece of “furniture.” Yet, it’s surpris-ingly easy to build.

FRAMES. I was able to keep the construction relatively simpleby designing the case with similar components.

Much of the construction involves making frames with moldededges. In fact, there are six frames that separate the three mainsections of the case, as well as the crown molding at the top of theclock and the kickboard base.

EQUIPMENT. At first glance, you might expect that you wouldneed a lot of tools to build a clock like this — especially with allthe molding. But I cut all the molding with a router — then stackedit to look more detailed.

WOOD. Its warm luster and rich tones make cherry a perfectchoice for this clock. And except for the case backs and dustpanels, it’s all cut from 3/4"-thick stock.

CLOCK KIT. As for the clockworks, I purchased a kit with ahigh-quality brass clockworks (see Sources, page 12).

As you can see, the Tall Case Clock has a glass door so you canproudly display the brass pendulum and weights (main photo).However, if you’d prefer to use a less expensive quartz timepiecein your clock, you could substitute a solid-cherry hardwood panelfor the glass.

FINISH. When finishing projects with a lot of molding, I like touse a wipe-on tung oil finish.

BRACKET. One last little detail. Because this is a tall piece of fur-niture, it has a high center of gravity and could be easy to tip over.So to keep it stable, I used an L-bracket to anchor the top of theclock to the wall.

Tall Case ClockTall Case Clock


U

W

S

T

A A

B B

D D

E E

C C

A

Q

WINDOWSTOP Z

P

B

B

C

D

D

L

R

FRAME “C”

RIMFRAME COVE

FRAME

DIAL FRAMERAIL

TOPDUSTPANEL

DIALFRAMESTILE

CHIMEBOARD

PENDULUMCASE BACK

PENDULUMCASE SIDE

FIELDFRAME

SCREW BLOCK

FRAME “D”FRONT

FRAME “D”FRONT

FRAME “D”BACK

FRAME “B”

LOWERCASEBACK

LOWERCASESIDE

LOWERCASE

FRONT

LOWER CASEDUST PANEL

FRAME “B”

FRAME “A”

KICKBOARDSIDE

HEAD CASEDOOR RAIL

HEADCASEDOORSTILE

KICKBOARDFRONT

MAGNETICCATCH

HINGE

HINGE

DOORPULL

PENDULUMCASE DOOR

RAIL

PENDULUMCASE DOOR

STILE

HEADCASESIDE

SEATBOARDSUPPORT

SEAT-BOARD

Y

V

X

G

J

K

H

O

N

M

E

#/4 !/2x 5 - 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.) #/4 x 6 - 96 (4 Bd. Ft.)

J J J VV X

X

#/4 !/2x 4 - 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)B

CTB

E

ZS U DD DD AA

#/4 !/2x 4 - 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)

L L L

#/4 !/2x 4 - 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)

L PPP P

CCDD

#/4 !/2x 5 - 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)

K K K K CC

Q

#/4 !/2x 4 - 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)

ALSO NEED: SCRAP " HARDBOARD FOR PART FAND ONE 48" x 48" SHEET OF " PLYWOODFOR PARTS M, N, O, AND EE

!/4!/4

AWW Y G H HY

#/4 !/2x 5 - 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)

DD C

R RBB BB

E

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:171/2W x 101/2D x 74H

CUTTING DIAGRAM

WOODA Frame “A” (1) 3/4 x 13/4 - 60 roughB Frame “B” (2) 3/4 x 13/4 - 96 roughC Frame “C” (1) 3/4 x 21/8 - 72 roughD Frame “D” Ft./Sd. (2) 3/4 x 21/8 - 72 roughE Frame “D” Backs (2) 3/4 x 13/4 - 12 roughF Molding Splines (20) 1/4 hdbd. - 21/8 rgh.

x 13/8G Kickboard Front (1) 3/4 x 4 - 161/2H Kickboard Sides (2) 3/4 x 4 - 10I Kickboard Splines (2) 1/8 x 3/4 - 4J Lower Case Front (1) 3/4 x 15 - 16K Lower Case Sides (2) 3/4 x 83/4 - 16 rgh.L Pendulum Cs. Sds. (2) 3/4 x 75/8 - 311/2M Lower Case Bk. (1) 1/4 ply - 141/4 x 163/4N Pendulum Cs. Bk. (1) 1/4 ply - 121/2 x 321/4O Lwr. Cs. Dust Pnl. (1) 1/4 ply - 81/4 x 131/2P Head Case Sides (2) 3/4 x 81/2 - 151/8Q Dial Frame Stiles (2) 3/4 x 15/8 - 151/8R Dial Frame Rails (2) 3/4 x 27/16 - 101/4S Field Frame (1) 3/4 x 11/4 - 40 rgh.T Cove Frame (1) 3/4 x 13/4 - 42 rgh.U Rim Frame (1) 3/4 x 2 - 44 rgh.V Pen. Cs. Door Stiles (2)3/4 x 21/4 - 313/8W Hd. Cs. Door Stiles (2) 3/4 x 21/4 - 15X Pen. Cs. Door Rails (2) 3/4 x 21/4 - 83/4Y Hd. Cs. Door Rails (2) 3/4 x 21/4 - 101/2Z Window Stop 1/4 x 1/4 - 130 roughAA Seatboard (1) 3/4 x 23/4 - 131/2BB Seatbd. Supports (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 43/4CC Screw Blocks (2) 3/4 x 3 - 51/2DD Chime Board (1) 3/4 x 131/2 - 151/8EE Top Dust Panel (1) 1/4 ply - 83/4 x 14

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(42) No. 8 x 11/2" Fh woodscrews(20) No. 8 x 11/4" Fh woodscrews(1) No. 8 x 1" Fh woodscrew(28) No. 6 x 1/2" Fh woodscrews(30) 1/2" brads(2 pr.) 2" x 15/8" brass spun tip butt hingesw/ screws(2) 5/8"-dia. brass knobs(2) Magnetic door catches w/ screw plates(1) Brass 8-day chiming clock movement (1) Standard pendulum w/ bob(1 set) Weight fillings(1 set) Black clock hands(1) 11" x 11" clock face dial(1 pc.) 19-gauge wire (14" long )(1) 111/4" x 111/4" single-strength glass(1) 91/2" x 275/8" single-strength glass(1) 11/2" x 11/2" L-bracket

MATERIALS LIST


FRAME “C”

FRAME “D”

FRAME “B”

FRAME “B”

FRAME “D”

FRAME “A”

NOTE: SEE TEXTFOR DETAILS OF

BUILDING FRAMES CROWNMOLDING

LOWERCASE

KICKBOARD

PENDULUMCASE

NOTE:PENDULUMCASE DOOR

REMOVED FORCLARITY

HEADCASE

1

(Fig. 1). The frames are used to orientand align the cases. At the bottom of theclock is the kickboard frame “A.” Frame“B” is at the top and bottom of the pen-dulum case. At the top of the head case,separating the head case from the crownmolding, is frame “C.” Lastly, frame “D” islocated at both the bottom of the headcase and the top of the lower case.

FRAME DESIGN

Frames for casework are typically joinedin two ways. If the frame is mostly deco-rative, it’s joined with 45° miters at all fourcorners. Structural frames, on the otherhand, like the ones you find in a well-builtchest of drawers, are usually made withmortise and tenon joints.

For the six frames on this clock, I actu-ally borrowed from each of these designs(Figs. 2 and 3). I wanted to hide the endgrain on the front corners of the frames,so I decided to use miter joints.

Since the visible edges of the frameshave routed profiles on them, and I wantedthis profile to extend all the way to theback edges of the frames, I used butt jointson the back corners.

STRONG FRAME. And since the frameslie flat and are screwed to the main sec-tions of the case, there’s not much forcepulling apart the mitered front corners.But the backs of the frames aren’t attachedto any other part of the case. So here Istrengthened the butt joint with a mortiseand a loose tenon. (You could use a regularmortise and tenon.)

FRAME PARTS

All six frames are built the same way. Ifound it most efficient to build them all atonce, rather than one at a time as I neededthem for the clock.

I cut the four sections needed for eachframe to exact size before assembly.

Note: Refer to Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7 onthe next page for the exact measurementsof each frame.

FRONTS. The critical dimension onthese frames is the length of the frontpiece. As you build each frame, start bycutting 45° miters on the front piece sothe long-point to long-point measurementequals the dimensions given in the draw-ings on the next page.

SIDES. Next cut a miter on one end ofeach side piece. Then trim each of thesepieces to length with a square cut acrossthe back end.

BACKS. Now cut the back of the frameto finished width and length. The lengthof these back pieces should equal theshort-point to short-point distance betweenthe miters on the front pieces. (They willhave to be 11/2" longer if you use a mortiseand tenon joint.)

MORTISE AND FLOATING SPLINES. Tojoin the frame backs to the sides, I cut 1/4"-wide mortises using a straight bit in atable-mounted router.

After cutting the mortises to size, cutthe molding splines (F) (Fig. 2). I used1/4" hardboard for these pieces and Irounded over the edges of the splines tofit the mortises.

ASSEMBLING THE FRAMES

To keep each frame square, flat, and flushacross its joints, I clamped the frame, onesection at a time, to a piece of plywoodwith square corners (Fig. 3).

To do this, begin by gluing one of theside pieces to the front piece. Next, gluethe back to this front and side assembly.Then add the last side piece.

To clamp the frame in place, I put oneC-clamp on either side of the miter joints,then I placed a bar clamp to hold the backin place (Fig. 3). I also put waxed paperunder each joint so the frames wouldn’t beglued to the plywood.

ROUT EDGES. When the glue has driedand the frame is complete, rout the deco-rative profile on the front edges. (Refer tothe procedures shown on the next page forrouting these profiles.) Do not rout anyof the frame backs.

!/4

!/4

!/41#/8

!/4"#/4"

-WIDE MORTISEDEEP CENTERED

ON THICKNESSOF STOCK

LENGTH OFMORTISEVARIES BYFRAME

CUT TO WIDTH,THEN ROUND OVER

EDGES TOFIT MORTISES

F

MOLDINGSPLINE2

GLUE ANDCLAMP

ONE SECTIONAT A TIME

WAXED PAPERFOR EXCESS GLUE

SQUARE UPFRAMES ON PIECE

OF PLYWOOD WITHSQUARE CORNERS

3

FRAME MOLDINGS

What makes this clock an heirloom pieceof furniture, and not simply a stack offrames and case sides? The exact fitbetween all of the parts. To achieve this fit,the solid-wood case sides must be per-fectly flat and the frames must be square.

The clock has four distinct frames thatseparate the clock’s sections. The five sec-tions are the kickboard, lower case, pen-dulum case, head case, and crown molding


A

A

A

A

TOP VIEW FRAME “A”(MAKE ONE)

END VIEW

1#/4

1#/4

1!/4

2!/4

2!/4 2!/416!/4

9&/8

#/4

!/2" COVE

!/8 %/81#/4

#/16"SHANKHOLE WITHCOUNTER-

SINK

12#/4

CL

4

1#/4

1#/4

1

2!/4

14#/4

9!/8

!/8

!/8

%/8

1#/4

#/4

11!/4

ROUND OVER INSIDE EDGES WITH " ROUNDOVER BIT!/4

TOP VIEW FRAME “B”(MAKE TWO)

B

B

B

B

ENDVIEW

5

#/16"COUNTER-

SUNKSHANKHOLE

2!/8

2!/8

2!/8

1

3

16

9#/4#/4

1!/4

11#/4

TOP VIEW FRAME “C”(MAKE ONE)

ENDVIEW

C

C

C

C

6

1%/8

2!/8

1

2!/2

2!/215#/4

2!/2

9%/8

11!/2

TOP VIEW FRAME “D”(MAKE TWO)

E

D

DD NOTE: BACK PIECE

IS NARROWERTHAN FRONT

AND SIDE PIECES

FRAME “D” BACK

7

A

!/2" COVE BIT

ROUTERTABLEFENCE

LEAVE "SHOULDER

!/4a.

!/2" COVE BIT

LEAVE "SHOULDER

!/8

B

a.

!/2" ROUNDOVER BIT

C

a.

2!/8

#/4

!/21!/4

SECOND: ROUT "ROUNDOVER

!/4

FIRST: ROUT "ROUNDOVER

!/2

#/16" COUNTERSUNKSHANK HOLES

NOTE:OMIT SCREW HOLES ON FRONT PIECEOF FRAME FOR BOTTOM OF HEAD CASE

END VIEWa.

A

#/4" STRAIGHT BIT

LEAVE "SHOULDER

!/8

!/8 %/8" x "RABBETb.

!/2" STRAIGHT BIT

!/8 !/8" x "RABBET

B

b.

!/4" ROUNDOVER BIT

C

b.

FRAME “A”

Frame “A” separates the kickboard fromthe lower case (Fig. 1).

To rout the profile on the front andsides of the frame, first use a 1/2" cove bit(Fig. 4a). It’s routed in several passes untilthere’s a 1/4"-thick shoulder along the out-side of the frame.

Complete the profile by forming a 1/8"-deep rabbet along the lower outside edge.I used a 3/4" straight bit and left a 1/8"-thickshoulder (Fig. 4b).

Drill seven countersunk shank holes onthe rabbeted side of the frame (Fig. 4).

FRAME “B”

You will need two of these frames — onefor the top of the pendulum case, and onefor the bottom of the pendulum case.

Shape the molding for frame “B” byrouting the 1/2" cove in several passes untilthere’s a 1/8"-thick shoulder on the bottomedge (Fig. 5a).

Next rout a 1/8" deep, 1/8"-wide decora-tive rabbet above the cove (Fig. 5b).Finally, soften the upper inside edge witha 1/4" roundover bit (Fig. 5).

Then, drill just four counterboredshank holes (Fig. 5).

FRAME “C”

Frame “C” gets attached to the top of thehead case. It separates the head case fromthe crown molding.

The “bullnose” profile is routed in twostages. First form a profile around theupper outside edge of the frame using a1/2" roundover bit (Fig. 6a).

Second, complete the bullnose using a1/4" roundover bit on the lower edge (Fig.6b). Rout both roundovers to the full depthof cut of each bit

FRAME “D”

The front and sides of frame “D” also havea bullnose profile (Fig. 7a).

One of these frames is attached to thetop of the lower case, and the other isturned over and attached to the bottomof the head case (Fig. 1).

Finally, you’ll need to drill the fourteencountersunk holes on one of the frame“D” assemblies (Fig. 7a). For the otherframe “D” assembly, you’ll drill eight holes,but they’re only on the side pieces — omit-ting the six shank holes on the front piece(Fig. 7).


CENTER AND GLUEFRAME TO KICKBOARD

FRAME “A”

NOTE:BACK OF FRAMEIS FLUSH WITH

KICKBOARD

KICKBOARDFRONT

KICKBOARDSIDE

16!/210

4

G H

8 FRAME “D”

LOWERCASESIDE

KICKBOARD

LOWER CASEFRONT

FRAME “A”

CHAMFER FRONTCORNERS ONLY

16

15

NOTE:BACK OFCASE ISFLUSHWITHFRAME “A”ANDFRAME “D”

8#/4

JK

H

11

J

K!/4"-LONGTONGUE

#/4LOWERCASESIDE

%/16

CHAMFER" DEEP

SEE FIG. 14#/16

LOWERCASE FRONT

#/4

!/8

12

!/8"KERF

CUT SPLINETO FIT

!/4

#/8

IKICKBOARD

SPLINE

9

FRAME “A” !/8" INSETON FRONTAND SIDES

GLUE FRAME ADIRECTLY TO TOPOF KICKBOARD

“ ”

10

FRAME “D”

#/8"OVERHANG

LOWER CASE

!/8"INSET

FRAME “A”

#8 x 1 FhWOODSCREW

!/2"

#8 x 1 FhWOODSCREW

!/2"

KICKBOARD

13

onto the top of the case assembly,centering the frame across the sides.This should result in a 3/8" overhangaround the front and sides of the lowercase (Fig. 13). The frame should be flushat the back edge of the lower case.

INSTALL ONTO KICKBOARD. Finally,screw this entire sub-assembly to the topof frame “A” on the kickboard (Fig. 13).

PENDULUM CASE

The pendulum case consists of twotall sides held in place between a pairof “B” frames (Fig. 15). (A door isadded later.)

cut a tongue and groove joint along thefront edges of each front and side panel(Fig. 12).

ASSEMBLE CASE. Now the side panelscan be cut to final width (83/4") (Fig. 11).Then spread glue inside each groove,and slide the tongued side panels intothe grooved front panel. Clamp the casewith pipe clamps until the glue dries.

CHAMFER EDGES. After the glue dries,rout a decorative chamfer along the out-side edges of the front piece (Fig. 14).Stop the chamfers 2" from the top andbottom of the case.

ATTACH UPPER FRAME. Now screw a“D” frame (the one with 14 shank holes)

KICKBOARD

After making all six frames I began workon the kickboard. The kickboard con-sists of a front and two sides. Start by rip-ping all three pieces to width (4") (Fig.8).

MITERS. Now, miter both ends of thekickboard front (G) so it’s 1/4" longerthan the front of frame “A” (161/2" fromlong point to long point). Then miter thefronts of both kickboard sides (H), andcut off the backs so they’re 1/8" longerthan the sides of frame “A” (10") (Fig. 8).

KERF AND SPLINE. Next, cut a kerfalong the mitered edges of each piece,and cut hardwood splines (I) to fit thekerfs (Fig. 9). Then glue the splines inplace and clamp the unit square.

ATTACH FRAME. To complete the kick-board, center frame “A” on top of thekickboard and glue it in place (Fig. 10).

LOWER CASE

Now begin work on the lower case. Startby edge-gluing boards for the front (J)and side panels (K) (Fig. 11).These panels will stand on thekickboard frame. Cut all thepanels to final length (16"),then cut the front panel tofinal width (15") so it’s inset1/8" from the coved top edgeon frame “A” (Fig. 13).

The lower case side panelsattach flush with the back offrame “A.” And before cuttingthe pieces to width, you can

NOTE:STOP CHAMFER 2"

IN FROM BOTH ENDS

2

214

#/16

CHAMFERBIT

a.


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Splined Miter JointsJOINERY

For the kickboard of the Tall Case ClockI used a miter and spline joint. The

miter joint hides the end grain. But I addeda spline for a couple of reasons.

Note: A spline is just a thin piece ofhardwood that runs across the joint.

ADVANTAGES. First, it provides moreface grain glue surface. A miter joint isend grain to end grain, which is weak.

Second, miters tend to slide out of align-ment as you clamp the joint together. Aspline helps keep the pieces aligned.

KERFS. The hardwood spline fits intokerfs cut in both workpieces. After cut-ting the miters, lower the blade, but keepit tilted to 45°. Then move the rip fence toact as a stop (Fig. 1).

The position of the rip fence will deter-mine the location of the kerf (Fig. 1a). Iprefer to offset the kerf toward the heelrather than the point of the miter (Fig. 2).

With the spline near the heel, the tipisn’t as likely to crack off if the joint isstressed. By positioning it near the heel,

you can insert a longer spline to providemore glue surface.

SPLINE. Now cut the hardwood splinesto fit the kerfs. These splines are exposed,so I cut them so the grain runs perpendi-cular to the joint line (Fig. 3). (If the splineis not exposed you could use 1/8" hard-board instead.)

Also, to ensure that the spline won’tprevent the miter from closing completely,I cut the spline a hair shorter than thetotal depth of both kerfs.

RIP FENCE

WORKPIECE

MITERGAUGE

1 KERF TOOCLOSE TO TIP

TIP MAYBREAK OFF

KERF CLOSER TO HEELPERMITS LONGER SPLINE

2 CUT SPLINESLIGHTLY LESSTHAN DEPTH

OF KERFS

SPLINE GRAINRUNS

ACROSS JOINT

3

FRAME “B”

NOTE:SIDES ARE

FLUSHWITH

BACK OF“B” FRAMES

PENDULUM CASESIDE

FRAME“B”

PENDULUMCASE SIDE

7%/8

31!/2

L L

15FRAME “B”

FRAME “B”

PENDULUMCASE SIDE

!/8" INSETFROM SHOULDER

OF FRAME#8 x 1 "

Fh WOODSCREWS!/2

16

LNOTE:FLUSHATBACK LOWER

CASE

17

WORKPIECE FENCE

SET SAWBLADE TO 45°

a.

SIDES. To make the case sides (L) startby edge-gluing blanks to width (8" rough)and length (32" rough). Then trim eachworkpiece to a final width l/2" less than thedepth of frame “B” (75/8" in my case), and311/2" long (Fig. 15).

ALIGN FRAME TO CASE SIDE. With theside panels cut to size, the case can beassembled. To do this, stand one of the “B”frames on edge with its back (unshaped)section down. Then stand one of the casesides on edge. (This ensures that the backedges of both pieces are flush.) Now posi-tion the pendulum side piece 1/8" in from theshoulder of the frame (Fig. 16).

PILOT HOLES. Using the pre-drilledshank holes in the frames as guides, drillpilot holes for both screws. Now screw theframe to the side piece with two No. 8 x11/2" Fh woodscrews. Then attach the otherside piece.

The second “B” frame is attached to theother end of the case assembly in muchthe same manner. This frame mirrors thefirst frame — the cove-molded edges ofboth frames face toward each other andinto the case opening (Fig. 16).

INSTALL ONTO LOWER CASE. Now thependulum case can be screwed in placeonto the lower case with No. 8 x 11/2" Fhwoodscrews (Fig. 17).

FRAME “B”

FRAME “D”

#8 x 1 "Fh WOODSCREW

!/2

a.


!/4" HARDBOARD

CARPET TAPEHOLDS BASETO ROUTER

BASERIDESON

EDGESOF CASE

3

When I began routing the rabbetsfor the back panels on the clock, Ihad trouble keeping the router levelon the narrow edge of the case.

If you try to balance the router onthe narrow edge, it will probably tipone way or the other and dig intothe wood (Fig. 1).

There are a couple of ways tosolve this problem. If the box orcase is constructed in such a way

that clamps will reach around it,clamp on a 2x4 block flush with theedge to be routed (Fig. 2). This pro-vides an extra 11/2" of solid supportfor the router base.

The second method is to add anauxiliary base to the router (Fig. 3).The base serves as a bridge acrossthe case to the opposite side. Imake this auxiliary base from ashort piece of 1/4" hardboard.

After drilling a hole in the hard-board platform for the bit to comethrough, I use double-sided carpettape to stick the auxiliary platformto the plastic base on my router.(Or, you can remove your existingbase and screw the new platformdirectly to your router.)

Then,you can rout as usual withthe new base straddling over bothedges of the case.

WORKPIECEEDGE TOO

NARROW TOKEEP ROUTER

STEADY

1

CLAMP 2x4TO EDGE OF CASETO SUPPORTROUTER

2

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Routing on an Edge

PENDULUMCASEBACK

LOWERCASEBACK

LOWER CASEDUST PANEL

NOTE:RABBET ALLFOUR INSIDEEDGES OFOPENINGS

N

M

O

18

SQUARE UP ROUNDEDCORNERS WITH CHISEL

LOWER CASEBACK

!/2" BRADS

!/4 #/8" x "RABBET

O

M

19 below.)The router will leave rounded corners

in the rabbets, so I used a sharp chiseland a mallet to square up the corners ofeach of the rabbets.

CUT PANELS. Now measure the sizeof each of these openings and cut a lowercase back (M) and a pendulum case back(N) to fit from 1/4" plywood.

Also measure and cut a dust panel(O) to lay flat in the bottom of the kick-board assembly (Fig. 18).

ATTACH PANELS. I installed the dustpanel with 1/2"-long brads. But so thecase backs can be removed later ifneeded, I attached them with No. 6 x 1/2"Fh woodscrews only (Fig. 19).

HEAD CASE

The head case is made up of two solidwood sides that are separated by a dialframe, and attached to two bullnoseframes (Fig. 20). Frame “C” goes at thetop of this case and frame “D” is locatedat the bottom.

HEAD SIDES. Begin by edge-gluing twohead case sides (P), and trimming eachto 11/8" less than the depth of frame “D.”(Mine was 81/2" x 151/8".)

DIAL FRAME. The frame that holds the

PLYWOOD BACKS

Once the pendulum case has beenattached to the lower case, 1/4" plywoodbacks can be screwed into rabbets routedaround the back edges of both cases.

ROUT RABBETS. First, lay the entireassembly face down across a pair of saw-horses. Then rout a 1/4" deep, 3/8"-wide

rabbet around all four inside edges ofboth case openings (Fig. 19). I did thiswith a 3/8" rabbetting bit in my hand-heldrouter. These are narrow boards, though,and holding the router steady can be adifficult task. So to make it easier, thereare a couple of ways to handle this oper-ation. (For more on routing on the edgeof a workpiece, see the Shop Tip box

#/8

!/4

#6 x "Fh WOODSCREW

!/2

TOPVIEW

a.


Q

P

R

FRAME “C”

DIALFRAMESTILES

10!/4

SOFTENFRONTINSIDEEDGEWITH

"ROUND-

OVER

!/8

DIALFRAMERAILS

FRAME “D”NOTE:

KEEP FRAMESFLUSH WITH

BACK OFHEAD CASE

8!/2

15!/8HEADCASESIDES

FRAME “C”OVERHANGS

SIDES "!/2

20

HEADCASE

PENDULUMCASE

KEEP FLUSHIN BACKOF CASES

21

NOTE:MITER ALL

FRAMEFRONTS

CROWNMOLDING

RIM FRAME

COVEFRAME

FIELDFRAME

17!/2 10!/2

17 10!/4

15!/2 9!/2

U

T

S

22

clock face is built a little differently thanthe case frames. It has mortise and loosetenon joints at each corner.

To make this frame, first cut two dialframe stiles (Q) to size (15/8" wide x 151/8"long). Then cut two dial frame rails (R)to size (27/16" x 101/4"). I used the samemortise and loose tenon joints on thedial frame as I did for the moldingframes. The molding splines (F) I usedhere are 115/16" wide and 13/8" long .

Note: If you’re using regular blindmortise and tenon joints instead, be sureto cut the dial frame rails 11/2" longer toallow for the tenons.

Then you can assemble the head caseframe (Figs. 20 and 20a).

Once it’s assembled, you can softenthe front inside edge of the dial framewith a 1/8" roundover bit (Fig. 20).

ASSEMBLY. Next, assemble the headcase by gluing the dial frame betweenthe two head case sides (P). Clamp theU-shaped sub-assembly so the pieces areflush at the top, bottom, and front.

After the glue dries, screw the bull-nose frames (“C” and “D”) to the top andbottom of this sub-assembly (Fig. 20b).

Note: The bullnose profiles shouldbe facing the same direction.

Position the frames so they’re flushwith the head case sides at the back, andcentered from side to side. Then drillpilot holes through the shank holes inthe frames, and screw the frames to theside pieces (Fig. 20b).

SCREW TO PENDULUM CASE. Finally,screw the head case to the top of thependulum case using four No. 8 x 11/2"Fh woodscrews (Fig. 21).

CROWN MOLDING

The crown molding assembly is madeup of three U-shaped frames. A fieldframe (S), made up of a front and twoside pieces, stands on edge. The coveframe (T) front and sides are routed andlie flat, and the rim frame (U) front andsides lie flat on top of this (Fig. 22).

Make these frames by first cuttingthree strips of 3/4" stock to a rough lengthand finished width for each frame. Then,on the cove frame (T) pieces, rout thesame cove and rabbet profile as on frame“B” (refer to Fig. 5 on page 4).

Now miter the front section of eachframe to final length (Fig. 22). Thenmiter each side piece, and cut it to length.Finally, assemble the frames by gluingthe front and then the sides onto theframe directly below it (Fig. 22a).

F

ROUND OVER EDGESOF SPLINES TOFIT MORTISES

1%/8

1#/8

!/4 #/4" MORTISE " DEEPCENTERED ON STOCK

!/4

!/4

2&/16

1!%/16

a.

FRAME “D”

#8 x 1 " FhWOODSCREWS

!/2

!/2"OVERHANG

#/8"INSET

FRAME “C”SIDE SECTION VIEWb.

#8 x 1 " FhWOODSCREW

!/2

FRAME “B” !/2"OVERHANG

FRAME “D”

a.

!/8"OVERHANG

!/4"INSET

TOP OFHEAD CASE(FRAME “C”)

#/4

#/4

#/4

1#/4

1!/4

U

T

S

2a.


W

F

F

F

F

10!/2 2!/4

8#/4

2!/4

2!/4

2!/4

2!/4

2!/4

CENTER AND DRILLHOLE TO FIT

PULL HARDWARE

HEAD CASEDOOR RAILS

HEAD CASEDOOR STILES

15

31#/8

PENDULUMCASE DOOR

RAILS

PENDULUMCASE DOOR

STILES

CENTER AND DRILLHOLE TO FIT

PULL HARDWARE

POSITION CATCHPLATE IN LINE

WITH PULL

Y

X

V

CL

CL

CL

CL

23

WINDOWSTOP GLASS

WINDOW

!/2"BRAD

!/4#/16

#/8

1

#/4

OPTIONALWOOD PANEL(SEE PHOTO

PG. 14)

PANEL STOP

Z!/4

!/4

NOTE: NOCHAMFER

#/8

24HINGES

MORTISEDINTO SIDE

AND DOOR

NOTE:POSITION

HINGES 2" FROMTOP AND BOTTOM

OF DOORS

25

F

2!/4

!/4

1#/4

!/4 1#/8

2!/4

!/4#/4" MORTISE

" DEEPCENTEREDON STOCK

ROUND OVER EDGESOF SPLINES TOFIT MORTISES

a.

INSIDEFACE UP

#/8"RABBETING

BIT

SQUAREUP CORNERS

#/8 #/8" x "RABBET

FOR GLASS

b.

DOORS

The clock has two doors — a head casedoor that allows access to the clock hands,and a pendulum case door that allowsaccess to the weights. The frames for bothdoors are made using mortise and loosetenon joinery, and both frames have arabbet along the inside edge to accept aglass (or wood) panel.

STILES AND RAILS. The stiles and railsfor both doors are all 21/4" wide. To deter-mine the length of the door frame stiles,I subtracted 1/8" from the height of thedoor openings. (This allows for 1/16" clear-ance above and below the finished doors.)Now cut the two pendulum case doorstiles (V) and two head case door stiles(W) to length (Fig. 23).

To determine the length of the pen-dulum case door rails (X) and head casedoor rails (Y), subtract 41/2" from thewidth of the pendulum case and the headcase (Fig. 23). (Mine are 83/4" and 101/2".)

SPLINES AND MORTISES. To assemblethe frames, first rout mortises on all themating pieces on a router table. Thenmake the 13/4"-wide loose tenons for thetwo frames (Fig. 23a). Now glue up theframes, clamping them flat and squarewith the loose tenons in place.

INSIDE RABBETS. With the door framesassembled, cut the rabbets that receivethe glass panels. I used a 3/8" rabbeting bitin the router (Fig. 23b). Cut these rab-bets 3/8" deep. Then use a chisel andmallet to square up the round corners.

STOPPED CHAMFERS. The faces of bothframes have a stopped chamfer routedalong the inside edges of the rails, andboth edges of the stiles (Fig. 23). With apencil, mark the stopping points for theinside chamfers 5/8" from the corners(Fig. 23c). Mark the stopping points forthe outside chamfers 2" from the ends ofthe stiles (Fig. 23c).

PANEL STOPS. After routing the stoppedchamfers, cut the window stops (Z) from1/4"-thick stock (Fig. 24).

Note: If you’re building the pendulumcase with a wood panel, the stop needsto be larger so it overlaps the rabbet andholds a screw (Fig. 24).

The glass panels should be cut to fit thedimensions of the door openings (less1/8"). Then install the glass with the panelstops. They’re mitered at their ends andthen nailed in place.

HANGING THE DOORS. Each door hastwo 2" brass butt hinges. The hinges arepositioned 2" from the top and bottom of

%/8%/8

2

#/16

NOTE:LAY OUT STOP POINT FOR

CHAMFER WITH PENCIL

OUTSIDEFACE UP

CHAMFER BIT

c.


TOP DUST PANEL( " PLYWOOD -

8 " x 14")!/4

#/4

DIAL FACE

DIALFRAME

CLOCKMOVEMENT

SEATBOARD

SCREWBLOCK

(3" x 5 ")!/2

CHIMEBOARD

CHIMEBLOCK

CHIMERODS

SEAT-BOARD

SUPPORT(5 " x 4 ")!/2 #/4

CHIMESILENCER

WIRE

13!/24#/4

1!/2

15!/8

E E

C C

A A

B B

D D

26

SCREW L-BRACKETINTO HEADFRAME

THEN SCREWBRACKET TOWALL STUD

28

HEAD CASECROSS SECTION

1" COUNTERBORE" DEEP!/4MOUNT

PLYWOODTOP

WITH#6 x "WOOD-SCREWS

SCREWBLOCK

DOORPULL

SEAT-BOARD

SEAT-BOARD

SUPPORT

!/2

3

4#/4

5!/2

ATTACH CHIMEBOARD TO SUPPORTAND SCREW BLOCK

WITH #8 x 1 "WOODSCREWS

!/4

C C

A A

B B

27

each door, and are mortised into both thecase and the frame stiles (Fig. 25).

PULLS AND CATCHES. Now drill holes inboth frames for door pulls (Fig. 23). Thendrill holes for two door catches. Finally,install the pulls and catches. (For more oncatches, see Technique on page 12.)

CLOCKWORKS

The clockworks consists of two majorcomponents — the movement and thechime rods. Before you can install these,center and screw the clock dial face on theback of the dial frame (Fig. 26).

Note: These steps are for the clock-works I used. You may need to alter thesesteps to fit your works.

SEATBOARD. The clock movement sitson a grooved seatboard (AA) that strad-dles two supports (Fig. 26). To make theseatboard, rip a piece of 3/4" stock to width(Fig. 26a). Then cut it to length to fitbetween the head case sides.

Now cut two 1/8" wide, 1/8"-deepgrooves along the length of the seatboardto accept the movement (Fig. 26a).

The brass chains that support theweights hang through a slot centered

between these grooves. To form the slot,first drill a pair of 3/4" holes (Fig. 26a).Then complete the slot by connectingthese end holes with two jig saw cuts.

To mount the seatboard into the case,drill countersunk holes on each end ofthe seatboard (Fig. 26a). Also, drill a holenear one end to allow the chime silencingwire to pass through.

SEATBOARD SUPPORTS. Next, to sup-port the seatboard, cut two seatboard sup-ports (BB) (51/2" x 43/4"). Then screw thesupports to the inside of the head casesides, and the seatboard across the topof the supports (Fig. 26).

SCREW BLOCKS. In order to mount thechime board to the back of the head case,I attached screw blocks (CC) to the topinside of the case (Fig. 26). These blocksare cut to match the length of the seat-board supports. Once they are cut to size,screw them in place (Fig. 27).

CHIME BOARD. The chimes arescrewed to a chime board (DD), whichacts as a back panel for the head case. Tomake it, edge-glue a 3/4"-thick panel andcut it to fit in the back of the case (Fig. 26).

Next, bore 3/16" holes through the backof the chime board to mount the chime

block (Fig. 26). Counterbore the holeson the back side to accept the largewashers that come with the chimes (Fig.27). Also drill countersunk shank holes tomount the chime board to the screwblocks and seatboard supports.

INSTALL WORKS. Now, set the clock-works on the seatboard. The handshaftshould be centered in the dial hole. If itisn’t, remove and re-cut the supports.

To add the chimes, first screw thechime block onto the chime board. Thenscrew the chime board to the screwblocks and seatboard supports (Fig. 26).

DUST PANEL. After you’ve fine-tunedthe movement and chimes, top the casewith a dust panel (EE) (Fig. 26). Cut itto fit and screw it in place (no glue). Youmay need to remove it to adjust the works.Finally, add a wall bracket (Fig. 28). ■

3#/81

1(/16

#/8

#/8" HOLE FOR CHIME SILENCING WIRE

FRONTSEATBOARD

#/4

&/8

2!/8

2#/4

3#/8A A

13!/2

a.


It’s hard to improve on a classic design, but adding a gabled pediment will beautifully enhance thisclock’s looks — and it’s easy to build. A scroll-sawn cutout in the kickboard front completes the change.

■ Start construction by using the patternbelow to lay out and cut the scroll-sawndesign on the kickboard front (G)(Fig.1).■ Then cut the pieces for the rest of theclock and assemble it as before.■ Now you can begin building the gabledpediment. Start by cutting the front andrear gables (FF) to size (Figs. 2 and 3).■ The roof panels are attached to thegables with tongue and groove joints. Addthe tongues by cutting a rabbet along thetop edges of the panels (Figs. 2 and 3).■ Next drill a pair of countersunk shankholes on the outside face of the rear gable(Fig. 3). Then later, you’ll be able to attachthe pediment assembly to a cleat.■ Once the gables are complete, set themaside and work on the roof panels (GG).Start by cutting them to size (Fig. 4).

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

2

!/4

2!#/16 2!/29(/16

DRILL SHANK HOLES FORMOUNTING PEDIMENT TO CLEAT

13!/2

" DEEP,"-WIDE

TONGUE

&/32!/4

REAR GABLE

#/8

F F

3

F F

!/4

&/32

2!#/169(/16

13!/2

2!/2

FRONT GABLE

" DEEP,"-WIDE

TONGUE

&/32!/4

2

G 1!/2

1#/4

2!/2

4

7

1 RADIUS!/2"

KICKBOARD PATTERN1

G G

!/4 #/4

1!/4

45°

!/4

!/4

9!/2

11!/16

ROOFPANEL

CUT " WIDE,"-DEEP GROOVES

!/4!/4

MITER TO LENGTH

4

H H

I I

13!/2

CLEAT( " ")#/4 #/4x

10RGH.

#8 1 "FWOOD-SCREW

x h!/4

PEDIMENTMOLDING( " ")#/4 #/4x

CLEAT IS GLUED ANDSCREWED TO CASE, THEN

PEDIMENT IS SCREWED TO CLEAT

5

Then cut the grooves for the tongues onthe gables. Be sure to note the differentlocations of these grooves.■ To complete the roof panels, miter oneend of each at 45°and then miter the oppo-site end to its final length (Fig. 4).■ Now you’re ready to assemble the ped-iment. To do this, glue the roof panels tothe gables, making sure to have the coun-tersunk holes in the back gable facingtoward the back of the clock.■ Then you can screw the assembly tothe clock. But first, you’ll need to make acleat (HH) (Fig. 5). It’s just a 3/4"-squarepiece of hardwood with two sets of holes.One set lets you attach it to the case, theother is for screwing the rear gable inplace.■ Finally, add the pediment molding. To make it, first rout a profile identical toframe “B” on a 13/4"-wide blank (refer toFig. 5 on page 4). After you rout themolding to final shape, rip the blank to3/4" wide and cut it to rough length.■ Now miter one end of the blank. Todetermine its final length, hold the piecebeneath the roof panel and mark its

length. It should be cut flush with themiter at the bottom of the panel (Fig. 5). ■ Repeat this procedure, mitering thesecond piece of molding to length, beforegluing them both in place.

GABLEDPEDIMENT

NEW PARTSFF Front/Rear Gables (2) 3/4 x 99/16 - 131/2GG Roof Panels (2) 3/4 x 91/2 - 111/16

HH Cleat (1) 3/4 x 3/4 - 131/2II Pediment Molding 3/4 x 3/4 - 20 rgh.

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(4) No. 8 x 11/4" Fh woodscrews

MATERIALS LIST


MAIL ORDER SOURCES

THE WOODSMITH STORE

2200 Grand AvenueDes Moines, IA 50312800–835–5084www.woodsmithstore.comOur own retail store filled with tools,hardware, books, and finishing sup-plies. Call for information or visit usonline for hard-to-find hardware.

LEE VALLEY TOOLS

P.O. Box 1780Ogdensburg, NY 13669-6780800–871–8158www.leevalley.comSeveral catalogs actually, with hard-ware and finishing supplies. A goodsource of hinges, knobs, pulls,catches, and lid stays.

VAN DYKE’S RESTORERSP.O. Box 278Woonsocket, SD 57385800–558–1234www.vandykes.comAn amazing collection of reproduc-tion hardware, veneer and veneeringsupplies, finishing supplies, bracketfeet, and lots more.

ROCKLER4365 Willow DriveMedina, MN 55340800–279–4441www.rockler.comA very good hardware catalog,including hinges, knobs, catches,pulls, and lid stays. You’ll also find agood supply of clockworks and acces-sories, plus veneer, and veneeringsupplies.

Most of the hardware for our projects can be found atyour local hardware store or home center. Some projects,though, may require specialty items only availablethrough the mail. Refer to the sources listed below for spe-cial tools, finishes, lumber, hardware, and supplies.

Be sure to call our own Woodsmith Store for hard-to-find-supplies and hardware kits designed especially for ourproject plans. Or visit us online at WoodsmithStore.comIf we don't have the hardware or supplies you need, we'llhelp you find a source.

Note: The informa-tion below was cur-rent at the time thisproject plan wascreated. AugustHome Publishingdo not guaranteethese products willbe available norendorse any spe-cific mail ordercompany, catalog,or product.

KLOCKIT

P.O. Box 636Lake Geneva, WI 53147-0636800–556–2548www.klockit.comA great mail order source for clock-works and accessories, includingclock faces with bezels.

S. LAROSE

P.O. Box 21208Greensboro, NC 27420888–752–7673www.slarose.comAnother complete source for clock-works, both mechanical and quartz.They also stock a full line of clockfaces, hands, and accessories.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Installing a Magnetic CatchTECHNIQUE

Installing barrel-type mag-netic catches can be tricky.

That’s because some caremust be taken when drillingthe hole for the magnet.

If the the hole is too wide,the magnet comes out eachtime you open the door. Andif the hole is too shallow,there’s the possibility youwon’t be able to set themagnet properly, keeping thedoor from closing all the way.

HOLE DIAMETER. To installthe magnet I drilled a 5/16"-dia.hole. The hole should actu-ally have been 8mm in diam-eter, but I didn’t have a metricdrill bit. My magnet was madeto metric specifications. Thedifference in diameter is min-imal, though, so I was able tomake do with what I had.

HOLE DEPTH. The depth of

the hole is also critical. As Imentioned, if the hole is tooshallow, the magnet willbottom out and the door won’tclose completely.

So I drilled the hole a littledeeper than necessary (5/8"for the 9/16"-long magnet).

Even though there’s asmall lip at the top of the catchthat fits around the top of thehole, I used a small blockwhen installing the magnet tokeep from driving it in too far(detail ‘a’ in drawing).

STRIKE PLATE. The easypart is attaching the strikeplate. First, stick the metalstrike plate to the magnet.Then shut the door againstthe plate and press firmly.This creates a small “dimple”on the door stile (detail ‘b’).This indicates where to drill

the pilot hole and a shallowcouterbore (so that the plateis flush with the door frame).

Now when the plate isattached, it will align perfectlywith the magnet.

CENTERHOLEON

CASE

USE SMALL BLOCK TOPUSH MAGNET INTO HOLEa.

FIRST:STICKSTRIKEPLATE TOMAGNET

SECOND:CLOSEDOOR ONSTRIKEPLATE

“DIMPLE”LEFT BYSTRIKEPLATE

b.

Documents

Clock Plan