COMM 0111.SectionC

8/6/2019 COMM 0111.SectionC

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T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011 C1

C h R I s T o P h e R

e m I L Y C o U T A n T

The World on My Plate

LIFe&WoRKWednesday, Jly 27, 2011 page C1

s e C T I o n C

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July is the very defn-tio of high smmer,that time of year whethe gree is jst at its

lsh pea, the eeries are ifll sog, ad life is woder-ful. We have had lots of veryhot weather ad lots of rai.Tomatoes are happy. Beas areecstatc. Garlc s n heaven.

I loe garlic. I years logpast I grew it, bt ow my gar-de patch is small, my ambi-tios lea more toward theitche, ad my home is earLilac Ridge Farm, where garlicis gorgeos ad abdat. I

Jly, garlic becomes my obses-sio ad my delight.

Garlic is a species of the o-io ges, allim. Other com-mo edible allims are shallots,

lees, ad chies.May gorgeos orametalallims ca be grow i pere-ial gardes. Both edible adorametal allims grow fromblbs that prodce scapes, orflower stems.

I the case of orametals,these scapes are the most im-portat part. I the case of gar-lic, the scapes [The Commons,May 18] dot cot as mchas the blb ad actally mstbe ct off for the blb theblb that we call garlic tothrve.

There are two mai types ofgarlic: hard-ec ad soft-ec.

And yes, thats the dffer-ece: hard-ec garlic doeshae a hard ec. Its blb is

characterized by idiidalcloes growig arod thisrather hard ceter stal. Hard-ec garlic is the ariety thatprodces those exqisitely se-sal scapes that are still aail-able at the farmers maret.

Soft-ec garlic prodces ascape that droops ad a blbwith larger cloes o the ot-side ad smaller, irreglarlyshaped oes closer to the mid-dle. Soft-ec garlic i the oethat is braided ito log chais.

Elephat garlic is ot tregarlic, bt closer to the leespecies. I also thi it has al-most o garlic flaor ad atextre that more closely re-sembles mashed potatoes.

The etire Allim ges has

more tha 400 arieties btwithi the edible garlic ari-ety there are fie mai typesof hard-ec ad three of soft-ec. Withi those types, moretha 600 sb-arieties grow alloer the world.

The garlic I by this time ofyear at Lilac Ridge is ot yetcured, or dred. it s the fullygrow ersio of the gree gar-lic oe fids at the maret iMay.

Garlic ca actally be har-ested three times: i its scal-lio-lie yoth i the sprig, iits adolescet scape stage, adstartig i mid-Jly as a grow-p flly formed blb.

Amada Thrber growshard-ec garlic, ad oe bysit with the etire stem still at-tached, lie the lopped-offheads you fnd at the store. Theec of hard-ec garlic is eryhard ideed, ad I rge yo tobe carefl whe cttig it off!

Oce yo hae the blb free,yo eed to separate the cloes.I sally trim off a thi slice

o the root ed, which exposesthe cloes icely. The dry, pa-pery coerig that we peel fromdried garlic is strdier admore iform i yog blbs.

First, I brea dow the blbito idiidal cloes. I taea small ife ad mae a slicethrogh the coerig, thepeel it off i strips with my fi-gers til the beatifl, moist,and flavorful clove s fullyundressed.

If I wish to age ad store thegarlic, I merely brsh off themost obios dirt ad hageach stal, blbs ot tochigoe aother, i a dar, warmattic that has good circlatio.

After three or for wees,the stal ad the blb shold

be dry ad the oter coer-ig hardeed ito a protectiecoat. I the ct off the stalwith strdy garde prers adstore the blbs i the cellar,where it is dar ad cool.

HOW TO uSE this gorgeosstff? We all hae a blb or twoof garlic i the itche, ad wemice it p with some oiosat the start of most dishes. Thisis a cetries-old se of garlic,ad a good oe at that.

Bt I beliee that garlic is toodelicios a object to be rele-gated to the chors.

Here are three classic, totallyfablos recipes that highlightgarlic as the star of the itche,a role it flly deseres. Some of

these yo may already ow,or at least recogize, bt I rgeyo to try them all. They willmae yo aother of garlicsadorig fas.

Aioli is othig more thahomemade mayoaise withgarlic. If yo hae eer madeyor ow mayoaise, heres the reason to do t, and t seasy.

This stff is oe of the mostdelcous and versatle saucesyo will fid; it is as great ogrilled fish, chice, ad eg-etables as it is i sadwiches orpotato salads.

Fid a medim bowl thatwill fit sgly iside a larger

pot lied with a dish towel, soyo ca whis lie crazy adthe bowl will remai stable.

To mae 1 cp, measre 2teaspoos of lemo jice ad 1egg yol ito the medim bowl.Tae 1 large cloe of garlicad mice it well, the smashit ito a paste. Sprile a bit ofsalt o the miced pieces admash them with the flat side ofa chefs ife, or se a mortarad pestle if yo hae oe.

Add the garlic to the bowl.Whis this mixtre til wellcombied. Por cp of e-tral high-qality oil lie grape-seed or safflower ad cp ofhigh-qality extra-irgi olieoil ito a glass measre with aporer.

Secre the bowl ad begiwhisig, drizzlig a few dropsof oil at a time ito the mix-tre til it begis to get thicad emlsifies. Cotie add-ig the oil, whisig igoroslytil eerythig is smooth, yel-low, ad lie mayoaise! Addsalt to taste.

Idiidal garlic cstardsmay sod strage at first, btthey are actually delcate, npart becase the garlic is sim-mered i the mil til allits harshess has bee tras-formed ito sweetess. Its thesame priciple as steepig a a-illa bea whe maig dessertcustard.

Yog garlic is by its atresweeter ad wors perfectly ithis recipe. These cloes aredelicios eate at room tem-peratre, so yo ca maethem i the morig ad serethem with a grilled stea thateeig.

Preheat the oe to 325 de-gees F, btter for 4-ocerameis, ad place them i abaig dish. Add all the peeled

Garlic

TheLOVE

of

Make the versatileallium the star of thekitchen this summer

JAY ERICkSOn/CREATIvE COMMOnS (BY) LICEnSE

A bad of soft-nek Vemont a.

nOAH SuSSMAn/CREATIvE COMMOnS (BY) LICEnSE

A basket of Vemont had-nek a.n see gArlic,PAGE C4


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C2 T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011C2 LIFe & WoRK T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011

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T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011 C3T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011 LIFe & WoRK C3

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C4 T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011C4 LIFe & WoRK T h e C o m m o n s Wednesday, July 27, 2011

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cloes from oe head of gar-lc to cp of whole mil ad cp of heay cream i a me-dim-heay sacepa. Adda bay leaf ad a sprig of freshthyme.

Brig to a simmer oer me-dim heat ad coo slowly,lowerig the heat ad coerig

the pa, til the garlic is com-pletely soft, 20 to 30 mites.Pre this mixtre i the bowlof a food processor.

I a medim bowl, whis 2large eggs ad 3 egg yols witha dash of salt.

Strai the garlic mixtrethrogh a siee directly ito theeggs, ad whis to mix well.Diide this mixtre eelyamog the rameis ad addeogh ery hot water to thebaig dish to reach halfway pthe sides of the rameis.

Bae for abot 25 to 30 mi-utes, untl the custards are setbt still a bit jiggly.

Remoe the rameis fromthe water, ad cool o a rac.When ready to serve, run a

sharp ife arod the edges ofeach ramei ad boldly iertoto a plate.

The cstard is creamy adrich, filled with the sbtle yetperasie flaor of garlic ada tiy hit of thyme. If yoare lcy eogh to get yorhads o some local chate-relle mshrooms this time ofyear, sate them i a few table-spoos of btter, spoo themoer the cstard, ad dst withmiced parsley. Yo will haecreated one the the great mealsof July.

This last recipe for garlicsop is from Richard OleysThe French Menu Cookbook.Oley was a difficlt, eccetric,woderfl ma from Iowa who

eded p liig i Frace fordecades, waderig his prop-erty i wor espadrilles ad tat-tered shorts, wie glass eer ihad, creatig some of the best

food i the world.Oleys garlic sop is a clas-

sic ad shold be made by e-eryoe at least oce before theyjoi him i heaes itche.This recipe will sere 4 to 6people.

Brig a qart of water to aboil ad add 1 bay leaf, 3 sage

leaes, 1 sprig of thyme, ad10 to 15 peeled ad crdelycrshed garlic cloes. Coo,coered, at a getle boil for 40mites.

Strai this liqid ito a-other sacepa ad discard theherbs bt psh as mch of thegarlic as possible throgh thesiee ito the liqid. Set aside.

I a medim bowl, combie1 whole egg ad 2 egg yols,1 oces of grated high-qal-ity Parmesa cheese ad somefreshly grod pepper. Beatwith a whis til creamy.

Slowly por i cp ex-tra-irgi olie oil while co-tially whisig, the add aladlefl of the resered gar-lic water, also while whisig.

Por this egg-ad-cheese mix-tre ito the remaiig liq-id i the sacepa ad whisoer low to medim heat -til slightly thiceed jsteogh to o loger be watery.

Ladle the reslt ito sopbowls that hae pieces of bro-e-p day-old bread i thebottom. It is trly icredible.

I recommed eatig thissop otdoors o the dec or,better yet, at a log woodetable dereath some shadytrees. A soft smmer breeze, ofcorse, the sods of birds, thecompay of old frieds, adlots of ros wold proide theperfect accompaimet.

With each delectable spoo-fl, thi of how lcy we are

to lie here i a garde paradiseof gree where garlic grows tomae this sop.

Dot forget yor espadrilles.

ngarlic FROM SECTIOn FROnT

MEMBERS 1ST CREDIT UNION

Te SMALL Credit Union

with a BIG HEAR

NCUAInsured to250,000

www.members1cu.com

10 Browne CT PO Box 8245

N. Brattleboro, VT 05304

Tel. (802) 257-5131

Fax (802) 257-5837

stop and smell the garlic! Thats all

you have to do.William Shatner

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COMM 0111.SectionC