complete mill report akhtar zia

TEXTILE MILLL REPORT_________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESTON UNIVERSITY

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PRESTON UNIVERSITY

SESSION 2004-2008

TEXTILE MILL REPORT

Submitted To: Sir. AKHTAR ZIA Submitted By:

NAME Registration No

AAMIR SHABBIR 1617-304003

SULMAN MANZOOR 1617-304009


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___________________ ___________________ ___________________ ___________________ CONTENTSCONTENTSCONTENTSCONTENTS________________________________________________________________________________________

INTRODUCTION i. Cotton………………………………………………………5

ii. Polyester…………………………………………………...8

Flow Chart ……………………….………………………………………………………................10 i. Grey Fabric Room ……………………………………………..…..11 ii. Inspection department………………………………………….....11

iii. Pretreatments……………………………………………………...……13 a) Singeing………………..……………………………….13 b) Desizing …………………...………………………….. 14 c) Solomatic………………….………………………………………..14 d) Bleaching…………………………………………..18 e) Mercerizing………………... ………………………..…22 f) Stentring……………………………………………23

iv. Printing ………………………………………………….. 25 v. Curing……………………………..…………………….. .26 vi. Stentering………………………………………………...26 vii. Finishing………………………………..……………….. 27

a) Finished fabric hall…………………………………27 b) Finished fabric checking…………………………..27 c) Fabric sent for shipping……………………………27

Dyes……………………………………………….……………………………..27 Lab Testing …………….……..…………………….……………………….28 Calendaring………………………………………….…………………32 Cad-Cam Studio………………………………….………………………...36 Engraving Section…………………………………….…………………..37 Color Kitchen………………………………………….…………………….39 Maintenance Plan……………………………………...………………….39


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SHAHRAJ MILL INTRODUCTION

Shahraj Fabrics Pvt. Ltd embarked upon textile business in the mid 70s as a sole propriety concern. Initially it commenced its activities from trading of greige fabric woven on auto loom. Through the dedicated and sustained efforts of the Chief Executive, it turned into symbolic greige fabric textile trade entity. The Company was incorporated in Aug 1993 under the banner of Shahraj Fabrics (Pvt.) Ltd and started manufacturing greige fabric on Air Jet weaving machines by acquiring various textile units on lease/conversion basis. With the growing business leading to strong financial position the Company embarked on the production of greige fabric by purchasing 52 Air Jet weaving machines in 1997 with complete back process to include complete sizing and warping machines. In 2002-2003 the Company further added 22 Tusdakoma air jet and 72 Picanol Omni plus weaving machines. The company also owns a vertical integrated processing mill to bleach, dye, print and finish all blends fabrics up to 3.2 meter wide and has stitching capacity of 4000 sheet sets a day. The fabric that is dyed and printed by the shahraj mills usually entertain its customer international customers, mostly from the customers of Russia, UK USA France Germany and a considerable amount is dyed and printed for local market. The printing unit has an average of 9 to 12 Lac meters of average printed average 24 hours, and the mill is still working to improve the production. The management and technical officer like Mr. Javaid (printing Manager) are very hardworking and sincere to their job and profession

Company Profile

Company Name: Shahraj Fabrics Pvt. Ltd

Country/Territory: Pakistan

Address: 147 148 Quaid-E- Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakpat, Lahore, Pakistan

Business Type: Manufacturer

Geographic Markets: North America

No. of Employees: Above 1500 People

Annual Sales Range (USD): US$40 Million - US$60 Million

Certificates: ISO 9001 -2000 , SA 8000

Year Established: 1974


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Products:

1. Chambray Fabric, 2. Blended Fabric, 3. Bottom Fabric, 4. Canvas Fabric, 5. Cloth Fabric, 6. Coated Fabric, 7. Cord Fabric, 8. Cotton Fabric, 9. Crush Fabric, 10. Damask Fabric, 11. Dotted Fabric, 12. Drill Fabric, 13. Duck Fabric, 14. Dyed Fabric, 15. Embroidery Fabrics, 16. Flannel Fabric, 17. Furnishing Fabric, 18. Grey Fabric, 19. Jacquard Fabric, 20. Khaki Fabric, 21. Linen Fabric, 22. Printed Fabric, 23. Rips top Fabric, 24. Satin Fabric, 25. Twill Fabric, 26. Combed Fabric, 27. Curtain Fabric, 28. Geiger Fabric, 29. Bleach Fabric

WORKING HOURS: There are three shifts in (processing unit) each of 8 hours. Raw material use in Shahraj textile mill is COTTON and COTTON+POLYESTER.


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COTTON

Introduction

Is a vegetable fibre obtained from the mature capsule of the cotton plant, a shrub about 40 cm high, with leaves and flowers of a red or yellow colour. When the flower is fecundated it loses its petals and within 25 days a capsule surrounded by a leaf called bract grows. The capsule is sustained by a cup and has a drop shape rounded at the lower extremity. Inside the capsule there are from five to eight seeds on which the fibre developed. When the capsule is mature it opens into four parts showing the cotton ball. On the same plant the maturation of the capsules does not occur simultaneously, therefore more passages are required for the harvest of the cotton. The harvest is carried out a week after maturation. The first operation after harvesting is husking, which permits the removal of the fibres from the seeds. Then the cotton is carded and combed so as to eliminate all the impurities. 4000 fibers is the seed average. Staple length = 1/8" - 2.5" (0.32 - 6.35cm) - for manufacturing yarns, fabrics, 7/8" - 11/4" (2.22 - 3.18cm) is standard.


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Fiber properties according to Cotton Inc.

Length & Uniformity

Upper Half Mean Length

Below 0.99 Short

0.99-1.10 Medium

1.11-1.26 Long

Above 1.26 Extra Long

Uniformity Index

Below 77 Very Low

77-79 Low

80-82 Low

83-85 High

Above 85 Very High

Fiber Fineness

Fineness (millitex)

Description

Below 135 Very Fine

135-175 Fine

175-200 Average

200-230 Coarse

Above 230 Very Coarse

Fiber Strength

(1/8 in. gauge strength in grams/tex)

20 and Below Very Weak

21-25 Weak

26-29 Base

30-32 Strong

32 and above Very Strong

Fiber Elongation (%)

Below 5.0 Very Low

5.0-5.8 Low

5.9-6.7 Average

6.8-7.6 High

Above 7.6 Very High

Fiber Maturity

Maturity Ration Description

Below 0.7 Uncommon

0.7-0.8 Immature

0.8-1.0 Mature

Above 1.0 Very Mature

PREPARATION

Preparation is the classer's interpretation of fiber process ability in terms of degree of roughness or smoothness of ginned cotton.


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APPLICATIONS

The major end-uses of cotton include:

• Apparel - in a wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses, children wear, active wear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear.

• Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, bedspreads, comforters, throws, sheets, towels, table cloths, table mats, napkins

• Medical and cosmetic applications - bandages, wound plasters

• Technical applications -

STRUCTURE & CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE. Cellulose may be obtained in a pure condition from cotton by treatment with alkalies, followed by washing, and by treatment with alkaline hypochlorites, acids, washing and, finally, drying. As thus obtained it is a white substance having the form of the fibre from which it is procured, showing a slight lustre, and is slightly translucent. The specific gravity is 1.5, it being heavier than water. It is characterised by being very inert, a property of considerable value from a technical point of view, as enabling the fibres to stand the various operations of bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc. Nevertheless, by suitable means, cellulose can be made to undergo various chemical decompositions which will be noted in some detail. Cellulose on exposure to the air will absorb moisture or water. This is known as hygroscopic moisture, or "water of condition". The amount in cotton is about 8 per cent., and it has a very important bearing on the spinning properties of the fibre, as it makes the fibre soft and elastic, while absolutely dry cotton fibre is stiff, brittle and non-elastic; hence it is easier to spin and weave cotton in moist climates or weather than in dry climates or weather. Cotton cellulose is insoluble in all ordinary solvents, such as water, ether, alcohol, chloroform, benzene, etc., and these agents have no influence in any way on the material, but it is soluble in some special solvents that will be noted later on.


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POLYESTER (PET)

POLYESTER FIBERS

Polyester fiber is a " manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed at least 85% by weight of an ester of a dihydric alcohol (HOROH) and terephthalic acid (p-HOOC-C6H4COOH)" [3]. The most widely used polyester fiber is made from the linear polymer poly (ethylene terephtalate), and this polyester class is generally referred to simply as PET. High strength, high modulus, low _shrinkage, heat set stability, light fastness and chemical resistance account for the great versatility of PET.

POLYMER FORMATION

Polyethylene Teraphthalate (PET) is a condensation polymer and is industrially produced by either terephthalic acid or dimethyl terephthalate with ethylene glycol. [26] Other polyester fibers of interest to the nonwovens field include:

(a) Terephthalic Acid (PTA), produced directly from p-xylene with bromide-controlled oxidation.

(b) Dimethyl Terephthalate (DMT), made in the early stages by esterification of terephthalic acid. However, a different process involving two oxidation and esterification stages now accounts for most DMT.

(c) Ethylene Glycol (EG) initially generated as an intermediate product by oxidation of ethylene. Further ethylene glycol is obtained by reaction of ethylene oxide with water.


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General Polyester Fiber Characteristics:

• Strong

• Resistant to stretching and shrinking

• Resistant to most chemicals

• Quick drying

• Crisp and resilient

• Wrinkle resistant

• Mildew resistant

• Abrasion resistant

• Retains heat-set pleats and crease

• Easily washed


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FLOW CHART

Grey Fabric Room Inspection Pretreatments Printing Curing Stentering finishing

singeing + desizing

bleaching +scouring

solomatic

stentering

finished fabric hall

finished fabric checking

fabric for shiping

2) FLOW CHAIN OF FABRIC

The fabric that is comes here to be treated particularly printed are of following Qualities

30 x 30 76 x 56

35x 35 76 x 56

22x22 60x60

20x20 60x60

40x 40 130x 70 Satin

The rates at witch these qualities are available

30 x 30 76 x 56 at 40 – 45 RS/m

35x 35 76 x 56 at 35 RS/m

22x22 60x60 at 50-55 RS/m

20x20 60x60 at 50-55 RS/m

40x 40 130x 70 Satin at 80 RS/m

These qualities of fabric are printed both in cotton and polyester – cotton.


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i. Grey Fabric Hall The fabric in the grey or untreated form is first through in the grey fabric hall. The hall has the capacity of storing considerate quantity of Fabric. It can store the fabric up to 3 Lac meters the condition of the hall are kept very strict such as

Humidity 65% ++++////---- 20

Temperature 100 C

Labour 15 - 20

ii. Inspection Department

The grey fabric is inspected here. This hall is attached to the grey fabric hall. The fabric is brought from there to this hall for checking any faults. • Here the fabric is inspected at 10% • The fabric is tested at the rate of 1 Lac meter every 3 hours. • The labour working at this hall is same as the same as that grey stock hall i.e. 15

- 20 • The machinery that they are using here is very ordinary and locally manufactured. • There are manual countless, spray, hooks and stitch machine. Weaving Faults: -

• Double Ends,

• Loose Ends,

• Broken Ends,

• Wrong Dent/Draw,

• Loose Selvedge,

• Double Pick,

• Miss Pick,

• Design Cut,

• Knots,

• Hanging Threads,

• Float,


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Mechanical Faults: -

• Starting Marks,

• Rapping Marks,

• Mending Marks,

• Hole /Cuts,

• Oil Stain

Yarn Faults: -

• Cockled Yarn,

• Weft Slub,

• Slubby Weft,

• CEP,

• Count Variation,

• Hair, Jute,

• P Proplyene,

• Black Ends.

Others: -

• Oily Weft,

• Sizing Stain,

• Hard Size.

Minor Faults: -

The faults can be removed easily in further processing such as in

scouring, bleaching and mercerizing etc.

Major Faults: -

Those faults that can not be removed in further processing are

major faults such as starting mark, rapping mark, whole etc.


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iii. Pre-treatments

Although Shahraj Mills having a complete processing pre treatment range included

a) Singing

b) Desizing

c) Bleaching

d) Mercerizing

e) Stentring

All the machineries are well equipped with all necessaries, needed for effective Pre-treatment.

a) SINGING MACHINE

This machine is made of Germany named Bal-wok. The performance of the machine is quiet satisfactory at producing singed fabric at a rate of 70 meters per minute Pressure 400


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Sr

No Description

1 TENSION UNIT WITH GUIDE ROLLERS & BARS

2 S.S. PRE-DRYING CYLINDER (OPTIONAL)

3 PRE-BUSHING UNIT WITH SUCTION

4 SINGEING CHAMBER WITH EXHAUST

5 WATER-COOLED ROLLER

6 WATER-COOLED BURNER

7 CARBURETOR WITH BLOWER

8 STEAM QUENCHING DEVICE

9 POST BRUSHING WITH SUCTION (OPTIONAL)

10 DE-SIZING UNIT ST-12/ST-15

11 SQUEEZING MANGLE 3 TONS.

12 MAIN DRIVE (A.C. MOTOR WITH FREQUENCY CONTROLLER)

� Labour

Operator 1

Helpers 2

b) DESIZING

The fabric is desized for removing sizes and starches. The fabric is already removed of producing fibers. One thing to note is that Shahraj is using a singe- Desize techniques according to which one machine can both sing and desize the fabric Shahraj Mills is using the enzymes desizing method


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� Recipe

Washing Soda 10 g/l

Salt 2 g/l

Detergent 1 g/l

Acetic Acid 1 g/l

After singe – desize they give fabric a dwelling period of 3 hours in which the padder is covered and not covered (optional) by the polyethene, plastic and a normal revolution is given so that the solution is evenly distributed and no spots are produced in the fabric

PREPARATION OF DESIZING SOLUTION

1. First of all wash the tank

2. The tank fills by 400 liter water and then staring

3. First of all salt is added as a (catalyst) then S.E is added then K.D (detergent)

is added and then L100 (desizer) is added

4. Tank fills by 1000 liter water. Measure 1000 liter water by rod.

5. Start the chemical feed pump and open flow meter according to the using of

chemical.

6. Make a record how much is using.

c) SOLOMATIC PROCESS (SCOURING + BLEACHING)

Scouring is a process of removing natural as well as synthetic impurities. In this

process maximum cleaning c effect is produced with minimum effect on cellulose

natural fibres contains oils, fats, waxes, minerals, leafy matters and notes as

impurities that interfere with dyeing and finishing. Synthetic fibres contain producer

“spin finishes” coning oils and knitting oils. Mill grease uses to lubricate processing

equipment shift on the processing fabric and contaminate it. “The process of

removing these impurities is called scouring” even through these impurities are

not soluble in water and can be removed by extraction, dissolving.


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PREPARATION OF SCOURING SOLUTION

• 400 liter water takes in a tank and stirring it.

• Soda ash added in water

• KEB dissolved in water

• After dissolving there are mentioned thinks, stop stirring.

• Now added caustic and measured by scale.

• Further take water in a tank and tank fill by 1000 liter water.

• The concentration of caustic soda checked according to gm/liter.

• Start the chemical feed pump.

• Flow meter opened according to the uses of chemical.

• Checking the concentration of caustic from saturator after 5 or 10 minutes.

• Make a record of uses chemical and how much concentration of caustic in

saturator.

M/c Company Name GTM Gollar

Model # 2003

Made in Germany

Process time 30-40 minutes


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After the dwell period, the fabric is set to scour bleach treatment for removing impurities and obtaining the whiteness on fabric The machine has 9 tanks, Including 7 washing tanks, 2 out of which 3 are pre-washing tanks while 4 are post-washing tanks and 1 is naturalization tank and other is chemical tank.

The sequence of the fabric treated here is as follows

� Fabric loaded � 1st wash at normal temp � 2nd wash 60c � 3rd wash 90c � Chemical tank 40-50c � Steamer 100c (Fabric length kept in 1300-3000 meters time 35-40 minutes)

� 4th wash 30c � neutralization wash with 1%acitic acid � 6th wash 90c � 7th wash 30c � Dryer

(22 cylinders with 10 cylinder columns, the cylinders are gas heated)

� Bleached fabric

� Labour

Workers 5

Shift in-charge 1


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BLEACHING

Natural fibers, i.e. cotton, wool, linen etc. are off-white in color due to color bodies present in the fiber. The degree of off-whiteness varies from batch-to-batch. Bleaching therefore can be defined a s the destruction of these color bodies. White is also a n important market color so the whitest white has commercial value. Yellow is a component of derived shades. For example, when yellow is mixed with blue, the shade turns green. A consistent white base fabric has real value when dyeing light to medium shades because it is much easier t o reproduce shade matches on a consistent white background than on one that varies in amount of yellow. Bleaching may be the only preparatory process or it may be used in conjunction with other treatments, e.g. desizing, scouring and mercerizing. The combination of such treatments for an individual situation will depend on the rigorousness of the preparation standard and economic factors within the various options. Other chemicals will be used in addition t o the bleaching agent. These serve various functions such as to activate the bleaching system, to stabilize or control the rate of activation, to give wetting and detergent action, or to sequester metallic impurities. This section gives consideration to the selection of bleaching agents and to the role of the various chemicals used in conjunction. MAJOR BLEACHING AGENTS � SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE

Hypochlorite bleaching (OCl-) is the oldest industrial method of bleaching cotton. Originally, calcium hypochlorite, Ca(OCl)2 was used. Most cotton fabrics were bleached with sodium hypochlorite up until 1940. Today it accounts for only 10 % of the cotton bleaching agents in the U.S. It is however the main stay of home laundry bleaching products. Hypochlorites are excellent cidal agents for mildew and other bacteria and are used as disinfectants and to control bacteria in swimming pools. Sodium hypochlorite is the strongest oxidative bleach -used in textile processing. Prior to bleaching with hypochlorite, it is necessary to thoroughly scour fabrics to remove fats, waxes and pectin impurities. These impurities will deplete the available hypochlorite, reducing its effectiveness for whitening fabric. Sodium hypochlorite is made by bubbling chlorine into a solution of sodium hydroxide.

Conversely, when acid is added to a hypochlorite solution, chlorine gas is liberated. Product strength of hypochlorites is generally expressed as the available chlorine content. This relates to the chlorine formed on reaction with acid.

Commercial sodium hypochlorite will have 12 to 15 % active chlorine. House- hold bleach is 5 % active chlorine. Calcium hypochlorite is sold a s a solid material and contains 65 % active chlorine.


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� HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Hydrogen peroxide was first used to bleach cotton in the 1920's. By 1940, 65 % of all cotton fabrics were bleached with hydrogen peroxide, largely brought about by the invention of the J-box which lead to continuous processing. Today, it is estimated that 90 t o 95 % of all cotton and cotton/synthetic blends are bleached with hydrogen peroxide. It is available commercially as 35, 50 and 70 % solutions. It is a corrosive, oxidizing agent which may cause combustion when allowed to dry out on oxidizable organic matter. Decomposition is accelerated by metal contamination and is accompanied by the liberation of heat and oxygen, which will support combustion and explosions in confined spaces. The material is a n irritant to the skin and mucous membranes and dangerous to the eyes

� SODIUM CHLORITE (NaC1O2)

Bleaching with sodium chlorite is carried out under acidic conditions which releases chlorine dioxide, a toxic and corrosive yellow-brown gas. Sodium chlorite is sold as an 80% free flowing powder. Chlorine dioxide is thought to be the active bleaching specie. It is not used much in the USA for bleaching but it is sometimes used to strip dyed goods and is often described as the bleach of last resort. One advantage of sodium chlorite bleaching is that it leaves the fabrics with a soft hand. Because of the gaseous nature, toxicity and corrosiveness of chlorine dioxide, special attention must be paid to the equipment. It must be designed so a s to not allow the gas to escape into the work place. Emissions into the atmosphere are of concern too. The gas corrodes even stainless steel so special passivating treatments must be carried out to prolong the life of the equipment. When a solution of sodium chlorite is acidified, chlorine dioxide (ClO2), hypochlorous acid (HClO2), sodium chlorate (NaC1O3) and sodium chloride are formed. Chlorine dioxide and hypochlorous acid are bleaching species, sodium chlorate and sodium chloride are not. The reactions may be written:


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BLEACHING RECIPE CHART

� 100% cotton

Quality

22x22 60x60

30x30 76x68

Recipe

H2O2 30

NaoH 22

Sag 4

Wet agent 2

Stab Agent 0.5

� Sateen

Quality

Recipe

H2O2 30

NaoH 25

Sag 4.5

Wet agent 2

Stab Agent 0.5

� Pc

Quality

30x30 76x56

30x30 76x68

Recipe

H2O2 26

NaoH 18

Sag 3.5

Wet agent 2

Stab Agent 0.5

40x40 127x79


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� CVC

Quality

30x30 96x56

30x30 76x56

Recipe

H2O2 25

NaoH 20

Sag 4

Wet agent 1.5

Stab Agent 0.5

� For dyed

Quality

22x22

60x60

30x30 76x68

22x10 40x44

Recipe

H2O2 30

NaoH 20

Sag 4.5

Wet agent 2

Stab Agent 0.5

� For white

Quality

22x22

60x60

30x30 76x68

22x10 40x44

Recipe

H2O2 35

NaoH 22

Sag 4.5

Wet agent 2

Stab Agent 0.5


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d) MERCERIZING

The bleached fabric is usually not transfer to the mercerizing section in case the fabric is printed at the end Similarly Shahraj Textile only mercerizes those fabrics that have very strict conditions at last i.e. The fabric to the printed is only mercerized is the condition are very strict.

Salient Features

� Tailored for individual requirements, Modular Design to suit all requirements. � Low Width Shrinkage and Low residual shrinkage with excellent dimensional

stability. � Good dye-stuff pick-up---good luster--- better handle --- uniform and

repeatable finishing results. � Can be equipped with PLC /Micro Processors Controls for different functions

such as fabric tension in Impregnator and Stabilizer, Shrinkage Controls for different functions such as fabric tension in Impregnator and stabilizer, Shrinkage control cum Indicator etc.

� pH Indication/control at the end of Washing , Dwell time control by controlling speed etc. Remote controlling possibility.

� Labor

Chemical Checker 1

Operator 1

Fabric Checker 1

Checker 1

Helper 1


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e) STENTRING

The bleached fabric is past and loaded on to the machine called stenter The machine is used for multi purposes such as

� Width control � Creases Removal � Tem Maintenance � Luster improvement

The basic function is however to control the width of the fabric since the fabric being passed from wet processes like de size, scour and decrease in the width considerably as the fabric swells up and loose its strength to recover this width the stenter is used which gives the required width. The width that the stenter here are controlling are such as increasing the width up to 114.

Shahraj Mills have two stenters having following data

1st stanter made by balcock (Germany) 2nd stanter made by Alkan (Turkey) The temp is maintained at dry heated 120, 140, 170, 180


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� Labour

per each stenter is 4 people

Operator 1

Assistant operator 1

Checker 1

Helper 1

MALO System

Is attached before the stanter to control the scouring and bleaching, in the weft yarn of the fabric.


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iii. PRINTING

The fabric is then passed on to printing machine for printing the fabric There are 2 machines launched at Shahraj Mills

� Labor

Labour per each machine 5 persons for color side and 5 persons for machine side.

Rotary machine

The machine is made by Zimmer (Austria) The important parameters for the machine are

� 12 colors machine � 50 – 60 percent efficient � Production of this machine is 1200000 meters per day. � The thinker is acrylic based � The binder is used by sandal bar and the name is tex acrylic binder

� Recipe

shahraj is using a following typical recipe

Dye (pigment) As required Starch (glycerin) 30 g /l (for quality like 35x35 and

122x66 quantity is 60 g/l)

Apratam (poly vinyl acetate ) 10 g/l Binder + thinker As required


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� Apratam is used for darkness of colors � Starch is use for uniformity � Binder is used for effective sticking of Fabric � Thinker is used in dye paste to make dye

The temperature is normal as that of production hall. Before the fabric is loaded for printing a sample is printed to ensure the customer satisfaction

� Sample machine (for testing)

The sample is of 15m One color used at a time One screen is used for carryout print The screen that the machine is using is made by Cu + Ni having uniform meshes

v. Curing / Ageing

The printed fabric is transport for curing to make the color permanent.

Temp 150 c

Manufactured by Bab cock

Made in Germany

Time 10 – 15 min

� Labour

Operator 1

Helpers 2

vi. Stentering

For curing chamber, the fabric is past towards 2nd stenter to carry out the required width of the fabric and produce further creaseless fabric.


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vii. FINISHING

a. Finished fabric hall

The printed fabric after caring out all the processes in the production hall is attached and sent to finished fabric hall. This hall stores the fabric that is printed. The hall capacity is 3-4 Lac meters.

b. Finished fabric checking

The finished fabric is again checked here to ensure quality. This is done to see the fabric is printed uniformity or not. If there are tiny parts left unprinted, they are filled by touching, while a large part is reprinted.

Labour 10

Production average 40,000 m/day

c. Consignment sent

The printed fabric is folded, packed and then loaded in trucks to send fabric to the desire places

Dyes The dyes used by Shahraj textiles for printing or pigments, due to there cost effectiveness and better fastness properties over fabric in the printed form The pigments are used of company named Sandal Bar.


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LAB TESTING Shahraj textiles have a very well equipped and elaborated laboratory having almost every type of modern day testing instruments.

Oven ten major machineries are available apart from many basic instruments, chemicals and appliances. Some of the important tests carried out are

1. Diameter check and measure 2. Weight check and measure 3. Quality check and measure 4. Construction check and measure 5. Blend ratio check and measure 6. Size % check and measure 7. Absorbency check and measure 8. Take up check and measure 9. Whitener check and measure 10. pH check and measure 11. Washing fastness check and measure 12. Light check and measure 13. Crocking check and measure 14. Shrinkage check and measure 15. Staring check and measure 16. pilling check and measure 17. perspiration check and measure

The important machinery and equipments used by Shahraj textiles are


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i. GS.M cutters This is a manual cutter used to cut in sound shape of diameter. The diameter fabric is fixed that is 42 inches and 11 cm. This fabric is later used to find weight in grams and which is used to find the total length of fabric.

ii. Weight Machine It is a digital weight machine used to find the fabric piece weight having an accuracy of measuring in grams up to 3 decimal places.

iii. Crock meter (CM5) by AATCC (USA) The fabric piece along with white cotton fabric is placed and rubbed by a solid 10 times and the fabric piece is checked against the grey scale to find the reading.


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iv. Sun test (CPS) by ALAS (USA) It is a light fasteners taster. The fabric piece is put for 24 hours, in the machine and recoded.

v. Light box The fabric piece is checked is various lights such as

� day-light � incandescent � back-light � U-V light


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vi. Oven It is a typical home based oven to heat chemicals, substances or any other thing in a short time.

vii. Pilling control tester by ATLAS – USA (PT4) The fabric pieces of size 5x5 inches is put in pill box and allow to be rotated for almost ½ hour. The speed of rotation can be varied.

viii. Thermo fix curing machine As the name suggest, this machine is used to check the fixation of dyes on the fabric surface under various atmospheric and temperature conditions. Normally it is used to see the fixation at 130c-160c for 5 mints.

ix. Quick-wash plus (fabric testing system) by Raitech ( ATLAS USA ) A sample of size 10x10 inch is inserted in each of the small containers, to carry out its effect when the temperature is 150c Other parameters are pressure 25 bars

Used for Drying and squeezing

Voltage 4 KW

pH 3


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x. Laundro meter by ATLAS ( USA ) It used to check the

� exhaustion � washing fastness � exhaust dyeing � dry-cleaning

Temperature 60 c Time ½ hours Some other tests that are carried out

� titration � thickener and dyes and softeners mixing � ironing � Checking starch percentage for measuring the quantities of chemicals in

desizing.

CALENDARING

After using the color the fabric is calendared that is brought into ironed form, making sure that the fabric is dry and in actual form demanded by customers


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Machine Name RAMISCH-GUARNERI Made by Bristo Arsizio Made in Italy Model # 2002 Volt 380v Frequency 50hz Total mass 2800g

TYPES OF CALENDARS The type of calendar used depends on the type of cloth to be run and what the desired effect is to be. There are embossing calendars, friction calendars, swizzing calendars, chase calendars, and compaction calendars. The difference between them is the number of rolls and the drive system. a) Swizzing Calendars

Swizzing is a British term used to denote that the fabric runs through all of the nips a t the same surface speed as the rolls. Swizzing calendars usually consists of seven to ten bowls and are run at ambient temperatures. The fabric effect is closed interstices, a smooth appearance and gloss without the high glaze characteristic of a friction calendar. A schematic of 7 bowl calendar is shown


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b) Chasing Calendars Chasing calendars are similar to swizzing calendars. The major difference is that the thread-up is such that the cloth makes several passes through the nips before it exits to a take-up roll. This is done by having cloth pass over chasing rolls which feed it back through the nips. The cloth is compressed against itself with as many as 5 to 6 layers being in a nip. This gives the cloth a thready-linen appearance and a soft special feel.

c) Friction Calendars As the name implies, friction calendars (see figure 76) apply a friction force to the face of the fabric. This is done by driving the pattern roll faster than the support bowl. Friction is created by speed differentials ranging from 5% to 100% so it is necessary to have a strong fabric to withstand the strains. Frictioning produces a high degree of luster on one side and the final effect is similar to ironing with a hot iron.


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d) Compaction Calendar A compaction calendar has a n adjustable gap between the pattern roll and bowl. This type of calendar is used to make filter media of certain thickness. e) Embossing Calendar Embossing calendars are normally two or three roll calendars with one engraved roll and one or two bowls. The patterns range from polished rolls or cire' to very deep floral patterns. Moire is a watered appearance which resembles paper after it has been wet with water. The moire effect can be obtained by using a moiré pattern embossing roll. Thermoplastic fabrics can be permanently embossed with heated rolls and the effect can withstand repeated laundering. Natural fibers are more difficult to emboss and usually starch is needed for the embossing to take; however, this effect is not durable to laundering. Certain melamine resins can be added prior to embossing and when properly cured, the embossing effect is more durable. f) Schreiner Calendar Often it is desirable to increase fabric luster without overly thinning the cloth. Schreinering is a method of doing this. Schreinering is actually embossing by the se of a very special pattern. The pattern roll has anywhere from 250 to 350 lines per inch, etched at 26 degrees from the vertical. These lines are lightly embossed into the fabric and being regular, reflect light so as to give the surface a high luster. This operation gives a silk-like brilliance to cotton fabrics. Schreinering mercerized cotton fabrics gives the nearest resemblance t o silk.

CYLINDERS It has 3 cylinders of steal and other of 2 cotton cylinders (squeezing roller)

Temp 80c

Max-Speed 100m/min

Pressure 19648 bars for 100 ton

� Labour

Operator 1

Assistant 1

Checker 1


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CAD CAM SECTION Here the design given by the customer on paper or fabric is scan in the computer

design team uses CAD CAM technology

Combination of sketches and fabric


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ENGRAVING HALL

In this section the rotary films are exposed and pattern are printed on them Uniform meshes screens are available in different sizes and mashes.

� The number of mashes or a screen varies as 60, 80, 100, 125, 155, 180 per linear inch

� The diameter of screen is 640, 720, 820, 914, 1018mm � Max screens length = 3500mm � The screens they are using made of Cu + Ni Shahraj is using following techniques for screen printing

a) Striping

The previous pattern are removed by washing screen using water and chemicals such as

� Phenyl

� Formic Acid

� Flouric Acid

� Methylene

After striping the chromic acid is applied which maximizes the removal and ensure that there is no

� Color softness on screen

� There is luster improvement

� Mashes are removed

b) Screen Coating

Screen is coated with coated material named “roto-coat 100” In a special machine called climatizer. Screen is coated upside down for 15-30 min at high temp over 200c

c) Screen Dying

The new coated screen is dyed to ensure the screen coating is thoroughly fixed on it.This process is also done at high temp and the process takes over 15-30 mints.

d) Screen exposing

Exposing section is connected to cad-cam section. Shahraj have 2 micro computers in exposing room. One system gets the design from the cad cam section and transfers it to other which is again connected to exposing machine and it exposes machine


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e) Exposing Machine

The exposing machine is called CST ink Jet and it works on almost the same way as an ink jet printer. The header is loaded with color pasted and it prints the pattern in the required paste. The room has a light pale yellow light ensuring no effect on coating and color.

f) Screen Developing

The screen is developed which means only that parts where patterns are printed on screen are removed from coating while other remains same.

g) Oven Heat (polymerization)

The screen is again oven heated.

h) Hindering The screen is thoroughly washed normally to make sure the patterned area is open i.e. Mashes are not closed by coating or another dust.

i) Dried and Heated

Finally the screen is heated and dried and sent to the rotary machine.

� Labour

Shift in-charge 1

Developer man 1

Checker man 1

Hankering man 1

Coating man 1

Store in-charge 1

Stripper 1

helpers 3


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COLOR KITCHEN For printing department Shahraj has a separate hall where pigment dyes are converted in a form to be used for printing. The hall has the capacity of making color can ready to be used within 5-15min. It has the capacity to store starch which is mixed with pigment paste to firm the color of proper density of 8000kg

� 1 tank of 4000kg



� Labor

6 people work at a single shift

Color man 1

Assistant color man 1

Starch carrier 1

Helpers 3

MAINTENANCE PLAN

A break-down maintenance system is carried out in the printing department by printing manager Shahraj textiles. That the machines detailed maintenance is carried out every weekend and twice a month.

Documents

complete mill report akhtar zia