Two main operations are involved in shoemaking: lasting and bottoming. Lasting is the term given to shaping the upper to the last and attaching it to the insole. (The insole has already been temporarily attached to the last). Shoe constructions are usually designated by the method of bottoming used. 1.Goodyear WeltedThis was once the most common method of construction for men's medium and high priced shoes but its use has declined considerably since the war with the introduction of simpler methods of construction and more durable t ypes of soling. The sole is stitched to a welt which is in effect a flange round the lower edge of the shoe upper. The welt is first sewn to the upper and insole in such a way that the sewing cannot be seen from the inside of the shoe. The sequence of manufacture is: 1. The ribbed insole is t acked to the last. 2. The upper is pulled over the last. 3. The upper is then held in position to the ribbed insole by means of wire staples or adhesive. 4. The welt, usually leather, 4 to 6 iron thick (1 iron = 1/48?± ), beveled and grooved, is now sewn to the insole rib through the upper. The bevel fits against the lasted upper and the groove accommodates the chain stitch seam. 5. The shallow cavity created by the insole rib a cting as a wall is filled with a bottom filling prior to the sole being attached. 6. The sole is either channeled or grooved on the undersurface round the edge. A ??channel' is produced by making an oblique cut and opening up the lip so formed. The sole stitching is inserted in the bed of this cut so that subsequently it can be hidden by flattening the lip down. Channeling can only be used for leather as the difficulty of keeping the channel open when stitching prevents its use for other materials. A ??groove' is a shallow trough for the stitching cut out the sole surface. Stitched in groove work can be done on any type of sole and the stitch row can be seen. 7. The sole is attached to the welt by means of a lockstitch seam, i.e., one formed by two threads, the running or needle thread and shuttle thread. 8. The channel, if any, is closed and cemented down. (The stitch-row is completely hidden) . Footwear Applications: Used mainly in men's and ladies' high quality walking shoes (Gibson, Oxford, Brogue styles, etc.).
