1 Birdquest: Cyprus 2008

CYPRUS

18 - 23 APRIL 2008

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: SIMON HARRAP Although relatively brief, our visit to Cyprus easily achieved its principal goal of finding the two breeding endemics, Cyprus Wheatear and Cyprus Warbler, but then, how could we fail? In the space of four and a half days birding, despite migration being at a complete stop, with painfully few migrants in evidence, we went on to record 112 species. These included breeding goodies such as Ferruginous Duck, Long-legged Buzzard, Eleonora’s Falcon, Black Francolin, Great Spotted Cuckoo, European Scops Owl, Pallid Swift, Masked Shrike and Cretzschmar’s Bunting, as well as migrants such as Spur-winged Lapwing, Greater Sand Plover, ‘Baltic Gull’, Red-throated Pipit, Black-headed Wagtail and Collared Flycatcher and, on a memorable afternoon, Spotted, Little and Baillon’s Crake in the space of just an hour. We started our Cyprus holiday with a pre-breakfast walk in the distinct cool of the early morning. Black Francolin was calling, and after an initial sighting from the balcony it was tracked down and seen well by all. Fan-tailed Warblers (or, more properly, Zitting Cisticolas) zitted overhead and sat up in front of us and then a Cyprus Warbler (a particularly well-marked bird) was spotted and scoped as it sang from a bush top. Red-rumped Swallows also showed, and we had a brief fly-by from a Great-spotted Cuckoo too. More familiar birds abounded, with numerous Western Jackdaws, Hooded Crows, Common Wood Pigeons and Collared Doves. After breakfast we made our first visit to Asprokremnos Dam. The pools here were almost dry, with just a drake Eurasian Teal on a muddy puddle, but we did find Great Reed Warbler, which showed well, as well as Chukars and a Little Owl on the surrounding dry slopes. Moving up to the dam itself we found the second endemic, a fine male Cyprus Wheatear, and had more great views of Cyprus Warbler. The reservoir – worryingly low for the locals – held a couple of Little Egrets and some Yellow-legged Gulls dropped in for a while, together with a fuscus Lesser Black-backed Gull. We then moved down to the coast to Mandria, which apart from more gulls and a couple of Shags on the rocks, seemed very quiet, but by plodding around for a while we found two Stone-curlews and then a flock of very tame Short-toed Larks. After lunch at a local tavern we made a circuit inland and back to the dam, with a couple of productive stops en route. A corner of a flooded field held Wood Sandpipers and Common Snipe, while a scrubby valley produced exceptional views of Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Spanish Sparrow, two very vocal Rollers and a superb Great Spotted Cuckoo,

2 Birdquest: Cyprus 2008

which flew around several times calling and sat up for good scope views. Later, after hijacking an ice-cream van, a flock of European Bee-eaters flew high overhead and finally back at the Aspro Pools a Little Crake made a brief appearance and an Ortolan dropped in for a drink. After breakfast on the second day we headed east towards Akrotiri, but our first stop was not for birds, but for plants – superb Scarce Marsh Helleborines growing in wet tufa right by the main road. Moving on we called into Kensington Cliffs. As we arrived Alpine Swifts shot overhead, and then we spotted our first Eleonora’s Falcon sat in a tree. We went on to have superb views of both light and dark phase birds, both perched and in brilliant fly-pasts. As a bonus, a passing Peregrine was chased off by some very vocal Eleonora’s, and we also had great views of more Cyprus Wheatears. We moved on to Akrotiri proper and the famous Phasouri reedbeds. Here there was water, with Black-winged Stilts, Ruffs and a furtive Ferruginous Duck, as well as Caspian Reed Warblers in the reeds and, after a while, a pair of Spur-winged Plovers on the adjacent grassland. After fish and chips in Akrotiri village we made a circuit of the salt lake. This was almost dry and held no birds, and indeed there were few areas of open water anywhere. We did pick up several Kentish Plovers and some scrub-bashing produced Woodchat Shrike, a Common Quail and a brief Rüppell’s Warbler. Stopping at Zakaki Pool (stroke lorry park) we found four more Ferruginous Ducks, and back again at Phasouri reedbeds we spent a very pleasant 90 minutes looking at Blue- and Black-headed Wagtails and Red-throated Pipits at point-blank range, as well as finding a drake Garganey. A final look at some salt bushes produced a very tame Great Spotted Cuckoo, and then it was time to return to the hotel for a hot shower and a cold beer. On day three we headed for the hills – the Troodos Mountains, to be precise. On the way up a very scenic road through the foothills we stopped in a few places to scan. At the first stop a Golden Oriole showed briefly, and at the second we had great views of Red-rumped Swallow, and then a Long-legged Buzzard sailed over and settled in a tree. It showed very well, and then a second appeared and sat on the ridge. A Steppe Buzzard then flew over and to complete the performance all three birds soared overhead, allowing an interesting comparison. Continuing upwards, we added Eleonora’s Falcon to the day list and then arrived in Platres. It was hot and sunny (we need not have brought our thermals with us!) and we had a pleasant walk through the pines, finding the endemic race of Coal Tit and Short-toed Treecreeper, as well as a Masked Shrike, together with more familiar birds such as Chaffinch, Wren and Blackbird. After an excellent lunch we drove up to the summit of Mt Olympus, where more Masked Shrikes showed well and we found a pair of Jays and an elusive Hoopoe. In Troodos village we had better views of the local race of Jay, hopping around a children’s playground and had good looks at Pallid Swift. All too soon it was time to head back to base, but we stopped a couple of times on the way down and had great looks at Sardinian Warbler (in the same bushes as Cyprus Warblers) and finally a Griffon Vulture sailed down the valley at close range – superb! On the fourth day of the tour we headed towards the north-western extremity of the island, the Akamas Peninsula. The first stop of the day was at the Evretou dam which, like all the reservoirs on Cyprus, was perilously low. Here we found the first Squacco Heron and Greenshank of the tour, but little else, so we continued on to the Baths of Aphrodite. This added another heron to the tally in the form of a pair of Black-crowned Night-Herons, but other migrants were thin on the ground indeed, with just one or two Spotted Flycatchers, a Tree Pipit and a singing Great Reed Warbler to show for an hour’s bush-bashing. Moving inland, we took the Smiyies track, picking up a fine Roller en route, and this too was hard work for migrants. with just a flock of 19 high-flying Bee-eaters. The residents did not, however, disappoint. First there was a superb male Cretzschmar’s Bunting that sang from the bush tops right next to us, and then after a little detective work I tracked down not one but two Scops Owls sitting well out and giving magnificent views.

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After a picnic in the shade of the trees, in the heat of the day we headed back towards Paphos and, after a circuit of a couple of likely migrant spots, ended at the Aspro dam. This was to be an inspired choice, as the small pool (which seemed to have dropped six inches in a couple of days) held both Squacco and Night Herons, and then a Spotted Crake was spotted as it pottered amongst the reeds at the back of the pool. We had good scope views of this, and then a Baillon’s Crake scuttled past right at our feet. This all seemed to good to be true, but it got better, as a Little Crake also appeared at our feet and this stayed around long enough to show well to all present. Finally, to complete the crake-fest Graham saw a Water Rail fly across the pool. Whew! We had worked hard for our birds today, but had seen some goodies, and were content to return to the hotel, just ten minutes and three Rollers away. On our last day on Aphrodite’s Isle we had just the morning to play with and I decided to chance Paphos Headland, the island’s best-known migration hot-spot. Surely there would be something there? In the morning the weather was still fine, with just a high haze to block out the sun’s ever more powerful rays. Clearly, migration was still at a low ebb, for we managed just single Whinchat, Tree Pipit and Lesser Whitethroat on the headland, but we also saw both male and female Collared Flycatchers, the former showing very well, so the trip was worthwhile. The final birding stop of the tour was Mandria beach where, just to show that persistence does pay off, we found Tawny Pipit and Marsh Harrier (both new) and then a party of three Greater Sandplovers, which flew in and settled just offshore on a rock, giving excellent scope views. Then it was time to head back to our delightful hotel, pack, have a quick lunch and drive the short distance to the airport for the flight home. Despite the lack of migrants, we had seen some great birds, and seen them very well, and I am looking forward already to my next trip to this magical island.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded be the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Ten at the Phasouri reedbeds and six at the Zakaki Pool. PHALACROCORACIDAE European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis: Two on the rocks of Mandria beach and one briefly at the

Kensington Cliffs. The bird on Cyprus belong to the Mediterranean race desmarestii. ARDEIDAE Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Two flying around at the Baths of Aphrodite and

then one seen very well at Asprokremnos Pool. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: Just six were logged, mostly in non-breeding plumage: One at

Evretou Dam, two seen well at the Asprokremnos Pool, and then three seen on the main dam there.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Scattered sightings, with the most being six at Evretou Dam. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Seen on two dates from the Asprokremnos Dam. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: One showed briefly at the Phasouri reedbeds. ANATIDAE Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: A lone male at Phasouri. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: A handful at Phasouri and Zakaki. Garganey Anas querquedula: A single drake at the Phasouri reedbeds. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca: A pair at the Phasouri reedbeds and two pairs at the Zakaki Pool,

skulking at times, but also showing well when they wanted to. ACCIPITRIDAE Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: One showed superbly as it glided down the valley as we

returned from the Gredos. A declining species in Cyprus. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: A single distant bird at Mandria beach. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: One over the Akamas. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: One on the Akrotiri Peninsula and one (with the following species)

on the drive up to the Troodos. The latter was a classic Steppe Buzzard B. buteo vulpinus, and that form is sometimes split as B. vulpinus.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: Brilliant views of a pair in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains. Only a few pairs are known to breed in Cyprus.

FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Small numbers were seen on a daily basis. Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae: Eight at the Kensington Cliffs, including both light and dark

phases, with brilliant views both perched and in nice close fly-pasts. Also a singleton flying up the valley as we drove to the Troodos, and two seen briefly on the Akamas. Named after Eleonora of Arborea, Sardinia’s national heroine who lived in the late 14th century and wrote an influential code of laws which protected these falcons.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus: One (presumably of the Mediterranean race brookei) was mobbed by a screaming Eleonora’s at the Kensington Cliffs and another was seen on the Akamas.

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PHASIANIDAE Chukar Alectoris chukar: The subspecies cypriotes (despite its name it is not endemic, it occurs from

southeast Europe to Syria) was seen well on several occasions. Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: Great views of ‘our’ male at the hotel; he was very vocal in

the early mornings. We heard several more and indeed, the distinctive call is a very typical feature of the agricultural areas of Cyprus.

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix: One flushed during a bush-bash on the Akrotiri Peninsula. RALLIDAE Water Rail Rallus aquaticus (NL): One seen in flight by Graham at the Asprokremnos Pool. Spotted Crake Porzana porzana: Good scope views of one at the Asprokremnos Pool. Little Crake Porzana parva: A very confiding male performed brilliantly at our feet at the

Asprokremnos Pool. Cyprus is definitely one of the best places to catch up with this ace skulker.

Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla: One seen briefly by some of the party at the Asprokremnos Pool. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Small numbers at various wetlands. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra: Most of our sightings were on the Akrotiri Peninsula. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Pairs seen at Phasouri, Evretou and (distantly)

Asprokremnos Dam. BURHINIDAE Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus: Two at Mandria beach showed well. CHARADRIIDAE Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Around 12 seen along Lady’s Mile. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaulti: Three (probably a male and two females) showed well

at Mandria beach on the last morning. Spur-winged Lapwing (Spur-winged Plover) Vanellus spinosus: Very good views of two of these smart

lapwings at Phasouri reedbeds.. SCOLOPACIDAE Little Stint Calidris minuta: A handful at Akrotiri, on the Phasouri pool and along Lady’s Mile. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Around six at Phasouri was the only sighting. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: A total of six individuals seen with the best views being four at

the Phasouri reedbeds. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Heard (!) at Phasouri and one seen at Evretou. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Three at Asprokremnos pool on the first visit, with a couple at

Phasouri and one at Evretou dam. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Small numbers at the Phasouri pool and a few other at various

freshwater habitats, including irrigated fields. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: One at Phasouri pool and six at Evretou were the only

sightings. LARIDAE Black-headed Gull (Common Black-headed Gull) Larus ridibundus: A first-summer bird at Zakaki

Pool. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus: Very dark looking adults of the nominate race was seen at

Asprokremnos Dam and on the rocks off Mandria beach. It has been suggested that the L. fuscus complex should be split into two, with western birds (i.e. those in the UK and western Europe) being split off as L. graellsii (retaining the name Lesser Black-backed Gull). The nominate form would then be renamed Baltic Gull.

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Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis: Small numbers on the coast with up to 40 loafing on Asprokremnos Dam.

COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Widespread, with ‘genuinely wild birds’ seen at scattered sites – although

I think it pointless with such large numbers of ‘Feral Pigeons’ to attempt to pick out the odd bird as ‘wild’; the local subspecies is gaddi.

Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus: Common, especially around our hotel. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Common, especially around settlements. European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: Scattered sightings of one or two birds. CUCULIDAE Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius: Unlike some of the other migrants, common and

conspicuous this year, with especially good views on the circuit north of Asprokremnos Dam and hopping on the ground among the salt bushes on the Akrotiri Peninsula.

STRIGIDAE European Scops Owl Otus scops: Daytime calls alerted us to the presence of this little owl on the

Smiyies track and we had stunning views of two at their daytime roost. Little Owl Athene noctua: Good view of one on the Asprokremnos Dam. APODIDAE Common Swift Apus apus: Small numbers seen on many occasions. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus: Nice views of around five, together with Common Swifts, in Troodos

town. Alpine Swift Apus melba: Six swift ones at Kensington Cliffs. MEROPIDAE European Bee-eater Merops apiaster: Only seen in high-flying flocks, totally 30 on the circuit north

of Asprokremnos Dam and then flocks of five and 19 on the Akamas. CORACIIDAE European Roller Coracias garrulus: Scattered sightings of these great birds with some brilliant views. UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Glimpsed in the Troodos and then one seen fairly well at Paphos

sewage farm. ALAUDIDAE Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Good views of 12 on the first visit to Mandria

beach. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: One of the commonest and most widespread birds in Cyprus. The

subspecies involved, cypriaca, is endemic to Cyprus and the Greek islands of Rhodes and Kárpathos.

HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Small numbers at Phasouri reedbeds and over Paphos headland. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Common and seen daily, we all enjoyed the birds nesting in and

around our hotel. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Small numbers seen on several occasions including some

nice views near to the hotel and superb views from the bridge on the road up to the Troodos Mountains.

Common House Martin Delichon urbica: Scattered sightings in small numbers.

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MOTACILLIDAE Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: Just one seen, a bird that showed nicely at Mandria beach on the last

morning. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Just five were logged, including one that was scoped on Paphos headland. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Great views of superb breeding-plumaged birds at the Phasouri

reedbeds, almost at our feet, and then 2-3 flushed from irrigated fields by Paphos sewage farm.

Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] flava: Good looks at up to 50 at Phasouri pools, but just 2-3 other sightings.

Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] feldegg: Good views of two at the Phasouri reedbeds. White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba: Just one seen, at the Phasouri reedbeds. TROGLODYTIDAE Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes: The endemic subspecies cypriotes was seen briefly during our

day out to the Troodos Mountains. TURDIDAE Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus: One seen by Simon on the Akamas. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: Only six of these attractive migrants were seen during the tour, but we

had some excellent views of fine males. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: Five seen on the first visit to Mandria beach and a singleton

at Akrotiri. Cyprus Wheatear (Cyprus Pied Wheatear) Oenanthe cypriaca: One of the two breeding endemics

and a very commonly-encountered bird, occurring in all habitats. The distinctive buzzy song (which helps separate it from Pied Wheatear) was also frequently heard.

Common Blackbird (Eurasian Blackbird) Turdus merula: A couple were seen in the Troodos. SYLVIIDAE Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti: Everywhere, we heard many more and had a few brief sightings of this

skulker. Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) Cisticola juncidis: Common, with notable concentrations near

our hotel and on Paphos headland. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus: Small numbers of this migrant were seen at

Asprokremnos Pool, Phasouri reedbeds and Zakaki Pool. Caspian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus fuscus: This rather weakly differentiated form is often included

in European Reed Warbler A. scirpaceus. We saw it well at the Phasouri reedbeds and Zakaki Pool.

Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus: Great views on both visits to the Asprokremnos Pool.

Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida: A very common species on Cyprus, it responds well to pishing and we had many good views.

Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala: Seen very well on the drive down from the Gredos and on the Akamas Peninsula. A newcomer that seems to displace the Cyprus Warbler in the northwest of the island. They used to only be found on the Akamas Peninsula, but are spreading further east, boding ill for the next species.

Cyprus Warbler Sylvia melanothorax: Many good views of this handsome breeding endemic, which often sat up on prominent perches to sing.

Rüppell’s Warbler Sylvia rueppelli: A male seen poorly on the Akrotiri Peninsula. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: Single along Lady’s Mile and at Paphos headland. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis (NL): Two seen by Graham and Wally at Asprokremnos

Dam.

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Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: Seen by Graham on the first day, and by Simon at Akamas. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: Just two seen, on the Akamas Peninsula. MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: A singleton on the circuit north of Asprokremnos Dam, and

two on the Akamas. Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis: Good views of a male and female on the last morning at the

Paphos headland. European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca (NL): Seen by Wally on the circuit north of

Asprokremnos Dam. PARIDAE Coal Tit Parus ater: The endemic subspecies cypriotes was a common bird of the pine forest of the

Troodos Mountains. The distinctive plumage and vocalizations lead one to suspect that this may end up as Cyprus’s third endemic.

Great Tit Parus major: A regular bird of gardens and bushy areas. The pale subspecies involved (it also occurs elsewhere in the eastern Mediterranean) is appropriately named aphrodite.

CERTHIIDAE Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla: At least two seen and others heard in the pines of

Mount Olympus. The endemic race involved is dorotheae. ORIOLIDAE Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus: One seen briefly on the way up to the Troodos, and heard

on the last morning by the hotel. LANIIDAE Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator: Just five of these handsome shrikes were logged, with the first on

the Akrotiri Peninsula. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus: After the first was spotted in the treetops, brilliant views of two more

confiding birds in the Troodos Mountains. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: The reddish-fronted, endemic subspecies glaszneri was observed in

the pine forests of the Troodos Mountains and, rather better, in the children’s’ playground in the village there.

Common Magpie Pica pica: Common throughout. Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula: A very common sight. The birds here belong to the pale-

collared subspecies soemmerringii. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix: Common on Cyprus, the subspecies is sardonius. STURNIDAE Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris: One seen by Simon on the Akrotiri Peninsula. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: The subspecies biblicus was common throughout. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis: A few sightings, the best being on the circuit north of

Asprokremnos Dam. FRINGILLIDAE Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs: Only seen in the pine forests of the Troodos.

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European Serin Serinus serinus: First seen in the Troodos, we had more brief sightings on the Akamas Peninsula.

European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris: Fairly common and widespread in small numbers. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis: A very common species all over Aphrodite’s island. The

subspecies involved is niediecki. Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina: Small numbers seen. Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra (H NL): Heard by Wally in the Troodos. EMBERIZIDAE Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana: One seen briefly on the first afternoon at the Asprokremnos

Dam. Cretzschmar’s Bunting Emberiza caesia: Great views of a male and female, with others singing

nearby, on the Akamas. Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra: Surprisingly few seen, with the best views on the circuit north of the

Asprokremnos Dam.

Cyprus 2008: colour page 1

CYPRUS 2008: all photographs by Simon Harrap

CLOCKWISE: Little Owl, Cyprus Wheatear,Eleanora’s Falcons and Olivaceous Warbler.

Cyprus 2008: colour page 2

CLOCKWISE:European Scops Owl;

Crezschmar’s Bunting;European Roller.

Cyprus 2008: colour page 3

CLOCKWISE:Masked Shrike;pine forest in the Troodos (home of several endemic subspecies as well as Masked Shrikes);Gladiolus triphyllus – common and conspicuous on the AkamasPeninsula;Scarce Marsh HelleborineEpipactis veratrifolia on theroadside at Epoiskopi.

Cyprus 2008: colour page 4

CLOCKWISE: Bug Orchid Orchis coriophora (sometimes split as O. fragrans): Holy Orchid Orchis sancta; Bornmueller’s Spider Orchid Ophrys bornmuelleri; tongue orchid (one of the Serapias vomeracea group).