DECEMBER 2017

MOONACRE SPA AND BATHS AT CALISTOGA MOTOR LODGE AND SPA (CA)

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32 | AMER ICANSPA.COM DECEMBER 2017

CHANCES ARE YOU’RE MORE LIKELY TO THINK OF MUSHROOMS as an edible treat or a psychedelic trip than a beneficial skincare ingredient. However, this umbrella-shaped fungus is proving to be a new weapon in many spa-goers’ natural skincare arsenal. “Mush-room extracts are chock full of antioxidants and exfoliating enzymes that are great for skin,” says Kimberly Sampson, training director for EmerginC. “The well-known shiitake mushroom is an anti- inflammatory as well as an exfoliant, and it contains high levels of kojic acid that can help brighten skin. Mushrooms also contain beta-glucans and selenium, both of which offer anti-aging benefits in topi-cal applications.” According to Shunri MacQuarrie, founder of Shunly Skin Care, mushroom extracts can be used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including dehydration. Because mushroom extracts con-tain amino acids that are similar in structure and function to hyal-uronic acid, they can be used to moisturize the skin, as they increase the cells’ ability to utilize and retain moisture. In fact, Ashley Stowers, national educator for CelleClé, points out that if the clinical dose of silver ear mushroom is used, the skin could receive up to five times more hydration than it would with the use of hyaluronic acid. “There are thousands of mushroom varieties throughout the world, all provid-ing a multitude of unique health advantages,” says Janae Muzzy, VP of research and development at Epicuren Discovery. “However, certain varieties of mushrooms provide specific benefits to the skin, including soothing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and immune boosting, just to name a few.” Want to know how to bring the benefits of mushrooms to your clientele? Get the lowdown here on how the popularity of this ingredient is mushrooming. •

Gain a new found respect for fungi, as mushrooms provide a host of beauty

benefits to the skin. BY HEATHER MIKESELL

MAGIC MUSHROOMS

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toadstool tutorialThey say variety is the spice of life, and that sentiment certainly holds true for mushrooms, as each type brings its own brand of benefits. Here, experts share their preferred mushroom extracts and the skin benefits they provide.

“An enzyme derived from the Japanese mucor miehei mushroom mimics the natural enzymes present in skin and helps promote skin’s natural cell turnover without irritation. When used con-sistently as part of an at-home skincare regimen, mucor miehei extracts improve skintone and repair texture and pigmentation problems associated with sun damage and breakouts.”—Kimberly Sampson, training director, EmerginC

“CelleClé formulates with thiotaine, as it proves effective with many concerns in one ingredient. Thiotaine is a superior anti-oxidant and a unique amino acid found in mushrooms. In vitro tests have demonstrated that thiotaine also has strong copper- chelating powers and inhibits tyrosinase activity, leading to lesser pigment formation and brighter skin. Along with its ability to restore power to cells, it also supports cellular activities from detoxification to the production of youthful proteins. It calms redness, enhances signs of repair, and evens tone and clarity.” —Ashley Stowers, national educator, CelleClé

“We use mushroom dehydrasome, also known as corthellus shii-take extract, in our Brighten Facial Serum. Shiitake mushrooms have been researched for their medicinal benefits for decades, and many skincare companies use mushroom extract in their skincare products due to its purifying, immune-boosting benefits. Shiitake mushrooms contain essential amino acids, and they are rich in B vitamins and are a great source of vitamin D.”—Monika Kincade, production manager, Osmia Organics

“A particular mushroom blend of cordyceps sinensis, also known as dong chong xia cao tochukas, and trametes versicolor, also known as yun zhi, provide spectacular calming benefits to the skin. Tra-ditionally used in Chinese, Tibetan, and Japanese medicine, this powerful combination has been shown in recent studies to regulate the synthesis of signal proteins responsible for sensi-tive skin and the inflammatory response. The benefits include a reduction in UV-induced inflammation; reduced skin sensitivity, including Cosmetic Intolerance Syndrome, a common sensitiv-ity to cosmetic products; and providing a long-term anti-irritant and soothing effect on skin.”—Janae Muzzy, VP of research and development, Epicuren Discovery

“Mushroom extracts specifically from shiitake and mucor miehei, as found in Murad’s Invisiblur, have been shown to have strong skin benefits in improving skin firmness, hydration, and smooth-ness, while fomes officinalis, as found in Murad’s Intensive C Radiance Peel, helps balance and purify the skin.”—Kristen Robinson, director of new product development, Murad

“We use reishi mushroom in every single product in our Tela Beauty Organics line. It contributes to every healthy hair factor. We consider it to be the king of all kings for antioxidant power for hair and scalp.”—Philip Pelusi, product artist, formulator, and founder, Tela Beauty Organics

“As a skincare ingredient, silver ear mushroom is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent with extraordinary moisture retain-ing properties. It is able to both directly moisturize skin and draw moisture from the surrounding environment. As a natural antioxi-dant, it helps protect the skin from the effects of environmental aggressors.”—Sara LaBree Baldwin, education manager, Jurlique •

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Mushrooms are also turning up in a number of treatments. Here are just a few of the ways spas are incorporating them.

At the Spa at Mandarin Oriental, New York, guests can take advantage of the Water Lily Radiance Facial ($245, 50 minutes), which incorporates the Blue Poppy Enzyme Polish with mucor miehei enzymes from EmerginC (www.emerginc.com) to exfoliate the skin. The facial also contains aloe, colloidal oatmeal, green tea, and extracts of water lily to help improve hydration and soothe redness associated with sensitive skin.

For a truly customized experience, guests can opt for The Hibiscus Signature Facial ($135, 50 minutes; $215, 80 minutes) at The Hibiscus Spa at the Hilton Clearwater Beach Resort and Spa (FL). It can address a variety of skin conditions including sun damage and hyperpigmentation with the use of KA+ Bio Lightening Treatment from Shunly Skin Care (www.shunlyskincare.com). It features kojic acid, which comes from shiitake mushrooms, and a botanically powered proprietary Fusion Formula containing algae extract, arbutin, bearberry, cucumber, and thyme extract to even skintone, reduce discoloration, and provide a calming effect.

The CelleClé Facial Treatment ($120, 50 minutes) at Facial Lounge (Corona del Mar, CA) incorporates CellSurge Intensif Serum Concentrate and LumiBright C, both of which are formulated with thiotaine, a botanical amino acid from mushrooms. The oxygenating treatment is customized to produce smoother, more supple, and visibly brighter skin. (www.cellecleskincare.com)

At the Rock Spa at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Hollywood (FL), spa-goers can experience the Himalayan Superfruit Facial ($170, 80 minutes), which relies on a cocktail of acai, bilberry, goji, and pomegranate to brighten the complexion and treat hyperpigmentation. The facial also relies on Soothe Dermal Repair Mist from Epicuren (www.epicuren.com), which helps to calm skin with a blend of mushrooms. •

IN treatment

perfect pairsWhen using mushrooms with other ingredients, it’s important to consider the type of mushroom extract used. According to CelleClé’s Ashley Stow-ers, numerous actives can be derived from mushrooms grown throughout the world. “Some extracts are in the form of vitamins, or amino acids, or pro-teins, or enzymes,” she says. “Mushroom extracts can be incorporated into a variety of formulations, from the ones designed for aging skin, where mush-room extracts can be paired with age-defying peptides to products intended to purify problem skin, in which mushroom extracts and enzymes can boost the activity of various skin-clarifying actives.” Because mushrooms are rich in antioxidants, some like to partner them with similar ingredients to capital-ize or enhance their ability to fight free radicals. “Mushrooms pair well with other antioxidant-rich ingredients like vitamin C, vitamin E, and astaxanthin to help repair and protect skin from sun damage,” says EmerginC’s Kimberly Sampson. “Mushrooms also work well with other exfoliating enzymes such as raspberry and papaya to enhance the breakdown of keratin protein in dead skin cells and enhance exfoliation effects.” According to Jurlique’s Sara LaBree Baldwin, pairing the hydrating benefits of silver ear mushroom with ingredi-ents such as peach leaf extract and Persian silk tree help to reduce the signs of fatigue and improve skin’s vitality. Says Stowers, “Most mushroom extracts are skin-friendly and ‘play along’ well with other ingredients in typical for-mulations, so unless there is a specific pH range at which specific mushroom extracts need to be incorporated, there are very few special considerations.” •

38 | AMER ICANSPA.COM DECEMBER 2017

wildSpa-goers are sure to be attracted to these fungi-based products. BY NICOLE ALTAVILLA

FOR MORE MUSHROOM PRODUCTS, VISIT www.americanspa.com

ON TOPIC | IN THE MIX

1. Restorative Mask GLO SKIN BEAUTY www.gloskinbeauty.com

2. Clarifying Action Serum SATIN SMOOTH www.satinsmooth.com

3. Naturale Mega Brightening Serum RHONDA ALLISON www.rhondaallison.com 

4. Zn20+ SPF40 Light Moisturizer SHUNLY SKIN CARE www.shunlyskincare.com

5. LumiBright C Multi-Fade & Firm Corrective Complex  CELLECLÉ SKINCARE www.cellecleskincare.com

6. Hydramucine Treating Mist G.M. COLLIN www.gmcollin.com

7. 5X Power Peel Daily Resurfacing Pads HYDROPEPTIDE www.hydropeptide.com

8. Pigment Control Kit DERMAQUEST www.dermaquestinc.com

9. Soothe Dermal Repair Mist EPICUREN DISCOVERY www.epicuren.com

10. Rescue + Relief Spray CV SKINLABS www.cvskinlabs.com

ABOUT MUSHROOMS

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