DEODORAN TS - HPCi

DEODORANTSPropelling innovations

cosmeticsbusiness.com twitter.com/cb_beautynews July 2015 Year 32 issue7

Special focusIndia’s deodorant market torise by 26.8% in 2015page 30

Market reportUnilever overtakes L’Oréal asNo.1 in France,Argentina and Iran burst forthpage 8

ProfilesSo...? Fragrances page 3A.S. Watson page 5

MARKETS

OFC CBM 0715 cover_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:39 Page 1

Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission.

Year 32 issue 7 July 2015Front cover: Strella Skincare & FragranceBoutique

MARKET REPORTSummary 8-9Report highlights, top 5 brands by country, usage data and key trendsFrance 10-13An impressive 6% rise to w500m, according to Nielsen, was driven bythe innovative launch of compressed spray deodorantsGermany 14-17IRI Germany noted a 2.6% gain to w668.45m, yet antiperspirantsexperienced a steep drop for the first time in yearsItaly 17-19Sales drifted in Italy as Cosmetica Italia reported a 1.2% dip to w405mSpain 19-21Worth w250.8m, Spain’s APD market remained flat despite gains inboth the mens and women’s deodorant categoriesUK 21-25Kantar Worldpanel reported a 1.3% rise to £582.879m, but it has notbeen an easy year for deodorant brands in the UKRussia 26-27Deodorants was one of the best performing C&T categories in Russia in2014. The market increased by 6.9% to RUB21.60bn, stated EuromonitorGlobal round up 28-29This issue covers the high growth markets of Brazil, Argentina and Iran

Company profileSo...Fragrances? 3-4This brand has beensuccessfully introducing teens tothe world of fragance via bodysprays for more than 20 years

Special focusIndia 30-33 The deodorant category isbooming in India, withestimated growth of 26.8%

Cosmetics Business MarketsHPCi Media Limited The Tanneries Natraj Building55 Bermondsey StreetLondon SE1 3XGwww.cosmeticsbusiness.comtel+44 20 7193 6862fax+44 20 3318 5305email [email protected]

EditorJo AllenReporterRachel LawlerGerman CorrespondentAnnemarie Kruse Italian CorrespondentKathleen ArmstrongSpanish CorrespondentSimeon GoldsteinSub-EditorAustyn KingArt EditorSibylla DuffySales DirectorAdrian GoldfinchSubscriptionsJulie WilsonEditorial DirectorErika HatvaManaging DirectorColin Bailey-Wood

Editorial+44 1992 303 [email protected]+44 20 7193 [email protected]+44 20 7193 [email protected]

SubscriptionsCosmetics Business subscriptionincludes Cosmetics Business Newsand Cosmetics Business Markets(plus subscriber access tocosmeticsbusiness.com). Full detailson subscriptions can be found atwww.hpcimedia.com or [email protected]

© HPCi Media LimitedThe paper used in this magazine isobtained from manufacturers who operatewithin internationally recognised standards.The paper is sourced from sustainable,properly managed forestation.

Printed by ColourfastWorld Limited,London

ISSN 0957-1515

Retail profileA.S. Watson 5-6The world’s largest health andbeauty retailer increased itsturnover by 9% in 2014, withstrong performances in Europe

MARKETS

Product spotlight34The world’s first smart electricdeodorant is about to belaunched. Could it revolutionisethe category?

THE DEODORANT ISSUE

Each year Cosmetics BusinessMarkets publishes a market reporton the following product categories:

January Bathroomproducts

February Facial skin careMarch Men’s linesApril Sun careMay Women’s

fragrancesJune Body careJuly Deodorants

August Hair careSeptember AestheticsOctober Spa products

November Colour cosmetics

December Hands & nails

IFC CBM 0715 contents_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 11:34 Page 2


SO...? FRAGRANCES COMPANY PROFILE

Teen trends tend to come and go, but So…?Fragrances have been keeping adolescentssmelling good across the world for more than20 years. Rachel Lawler speaks to the brandabout its success

So...? continues to soarin the UK, with a retailvalue of £18m and y-o-ygrowth of 9%

“Some of these titles still exist, particularly themusic titles, but their circulation is now verysmall,” Patrick Spillmann, Creative Director, adds.Instead, the brand focuses its marketing effortsonline. “Social media is the best way to connectwith teenagers now,” Gangj says. The brand hasaround 65,000 likes and follows across socialmedia overall, including an impressive 50,000 likeson Facebook. The brand also works with fashionand beauty bloggers to further tap in to thegrowing online audience.

In late 2003, the brand launched So…? VIP –an online club for the brand’s consumers, givingthem access to offers, competitions and brandevents in reward for their loyalty. Members areoffered samples of new products and attend pressdays, adding to the online buzz. Gangj says: “Itallows us to connect with our biggest fans.”Moving online will also help the brand as itconquers its next challenge – cracking othermarkets worldwide.

Blooming in IndonesiaWorldwide, license holders distribute the brand to38 countries across the globe. Today, its biggestmarket is still the UK but it is rapidly growing itsmarket share in Indonesia – which is now itssecond biggest market. In third and fourth placeare Australia and Canada respectively.

Gangj says: “If the Indonesian market continuesin the same way it will overtake the UK in aboutfive years time.” He says this is due to a number offactors, including the country’s larger populationand younger demographic. Interestingly, thebrand chose to market one of its most popularfragrances, So…? Sinful, under a different name inthis region. “We went with So…? Sensual – ourmarket researchers told us that the sinful namewould not work in Indonesia at all,” Gangj says.

The brand also has plans to break into theIndian market, using its progress in Indonesia as

Fact File: So...? Fragrances

Founded 1994

Owner Incos Limited

Address Ambassador House, Cavendish Avenue,Harrow, Middlesex, HA1 3RW, UK

Contact telephone +44 20 8869 4444

Website www.sofragrances.com

July 2015 CBM 3

Famously fickle, it’s rare for teenage consumersto stick to one brand for long. Rarer still for anygeneration to embrace a product previouslyfavoured by their elders. Yet So…? Fragrances hasjust introduced its fifth generation to the world offragrance via body sprays.

Countless girls have started their journey intofragrance with a can of the brand’s iconic scentsSo…? Kiss Me and So…? Sinful. Versatility is keyin this market, and So…? is well-placed, with itsconstantly updating range. But the brand isn’t justabout new consumers. After more than 20 years,So…? also has a loyal following of older fans. Buthow does it manage to balance the needs of thesetwo very different consumers?

In 1994, So…? launched with a view to capturea younger audience for its parent brand, Yardley.Packaged in simple red, the original scent So…?was created. Yardley was very much focussed onolder consumers and decided to invest in thispromising sector. Five years later, Yardley went into receivership and So…? was bought byIncos Limited.

Since its launch, the brand has faced severalchallenges. A surprising but notable problem arosefrom the decline of the print industry. KarimGangj, Financial Director, explains: “Cosmo Girl,Sugar, Bliss… these magazines were once part ofteenagers’ lifestyle. In the late 1990s and early2000s we focused our advertising on these weeklyteen titles but that’s really changed now.” Sincethen, many of the magazines once adored by teenconsumers folded as the audience moved online.

FOREVERYOUNG

SO...? FRAGRANCES

003 CBM 0715 company profile_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:19 Page 3


COMPANY PROFILE SO...? FRAGRANCES

a model. “I know another of our license holdersis interested in taking the brand into Brazil,”Gangj adds. Taking what they have learnt aboutdigital marketing and product selection fromIndonesia, the brand hopes to see similar successin these markets.

Back home, the UK market is still hugelysuccessful for So…?. The brand now has around20 employees in its UK base in Middlesex,manufacturing some of its products in the countrytoo. Last year alone the company sold 10 millionitems in the UK with a total retail value of around£18m. For the financial year ending March 2014,the brand reported an impressive 9% growth insales. “For an established brand that’s quite a lotand our best result to date,” says Gangj.

Tempting teensAs with any brand targeting a teen audience, newproducts are as important as new markets. Sinceits launch So…? has introduced around 28different scents. At least 18 of these are stillavailable in one form or another. Gangj explains:“We try to launch one new fragrance every newyear and a flagship range every three years.”

The brand’s current flagship range is the So…?Couture set of products, which include fourfragrances named after popular travel and fashiondestinations: London, New York, Paris and Rio.The brand’s previous collection was So…? Rock‘n’ Roll, which used tattoo imagery,tapping into a current trend with teens.

“Newness is generally what drivesgrowth,” Gangj says. But the brand’sclassic products are still of hugeimportance. “It’s our old tried andtested fragrances that actually sell themost. Like Chanel No5 has alwaysbeen their number one seller, ourSo…? Kiss Me range has always beenour top seller.” It is these favouriteproducts that keep So..?’s loyal fansreturning to the range. So…? Kiss Me isthe brand’s biggest seller in the UK,Australia and Canada, with So…? Sinfula close second.

“We’ve worked up a very loyalcustomer base of adults. Many yearsago we were the number one repeatbuy fragrance in Boots,” Gangj says.He believes their success in this areastems from the brand’s origins infragrance. “We come from fragranceheritage: our Eau de Toilette wasintroduced before our body spray.Fragrance is a very emotional thing,but less so with body sprays.Consumers are looking for a longlasting, nice scent that they know willlast all day.” However, while its loyaladult following is important to So..?,Gangji says the brand will always bedriven by teenagers. “That’s thechallenge – we need to keep our loyalcustomers happy but we need newnessto maintain interest in the brand,” he comments.

New launches are animportant growth driverfor the brand. However,its classic rangesremain top sellers

We need tokeep our loyalcustomers happybut we neednewness tomaintain interestin the brandKarim Gangj, FinancialDirector, So…?Fragrances

“The most successful of the brand’s recentlaunches is So…? Sexy. This product demonstratesthe balances between old and new customers well,with a new fragrance and new packaging, but stillheavily inspired by the bestselling So…? Kiss Me.“We always knew that we would release So…?Sexy, as soon as we created So…? Kiss Me,” Gangjsays. “It was just waiting for the right time.”

Gangj doesn’t believe multifunctional productswill be of any importance to this sector now, oreven in the future. “I think body spray is asimplistic product at a set price. People havetrusted brands in body fragrance and trustedbrands in body care and it’s difficult to try andmerge the two,” he says. Instead, Gangj sees a realopportunity for the So…? brand to expand intobath and body. The company has already added ascented dry shampoo to its range.

So...? Versatile“We’re looking at expanding out of the fragrancearea and creating a whole lifestyle forteenagers.” Gangj says. So…? has already hadconsiderable success with other products as partof gift and promotional sets. “I can’t even tellyou the number of t-shirts we have sold with theSo…? Kiss Me logo on,” Gangj says. “We thinkthe potential for us to engage a teenageconsumer in other products is huge. It’s reallyabout looking at the success we’ve had with

fragrance and emulating it in lifestyle,”he adds.

How that lifestyle will evolvedepends entirely on So…?’s fans. “Thisbrand is really owned by theconsumers,” Gangj says. The brandemulates the aspirations of each newgeneration of teenagers, using theirideals to take the products forward.“When celebrities were the big thingwe bought out So…? Superstar. TheSo…? Couture range we just launchedis targeting the fashion and travelaspirations of teenagers,” Gangjexplains. The expansion into lifestyleproducts is a fairly natural progression.

The key to the brand’s success in allareas is its versatility. Gangj says: “It’sthe beauty of the name So…? You canput any word next to it.” With eachnew launch, the brand attempts toidentify the aspirations of each newgeneration of teenagers and morphthem into a fragrance concept. Withthe flexibility this brings, thepossibilities for future scents isalmost limitless.

Unusually for a fragrance brand,So…? did not celebrate its recent 20year anniversary with any newlaunches or advertising campaigns.Thanks to its teenage audience, thesemilestones will always been celebratedprivately. But if the brand is able tocontinue its current success, thereshould be many more of these silentmarkers of success to come.

4 CBM July 2015

“

003 CBM 0715 company profile_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:19 Page 4


July 2015 CBM 5

Watsons stores reached 2,000 in November 2014.In addition, there are Watsons outlets in theUkraine and Turkey. In the majority of its Asianmarkets, Watsons is the drugstore market leader.

The Chinese market (mainland China) didparticularly well last year, growing 14% toHK$20,408m in 2014. The other Asian marketsincreased 8% to HK$20,843m. In total, Watson’shealth and beauty retail business in China andAsia reached HK$41,251m, an increase of 11%.

Stepping up in EuropeOver the past decade, A.S. Watson has stepped upits expansion pace in Europe, quietly acquiringscores of European beauty chains. Today, A.S.Watson is the biggest beauty retailer in Europe.The group has a particularly strong position inGermany, France, Benelux and the UK, thanks toa number of strategic purchases.

The first of these was the acquisition of Dutchretail group Kruidvat in 2002 for t1.3bn. TheKruidvat portfolio included not just the Kruidvatdrugstore chain with currently 900 stores, but alsofellow Dutch chain Trekpleister, Belgianperfumery chain ICI Paris XL and UK drugstoreretailers Superdrug and Savers Health & Beauty.Superdrug, as the second-biggest health andbeauty chain in the UK, currently operates over900 stores and in 2014 generated a turnover of£1.058bn, up 4.75%. Discount chain Savers hassome 240 stores in the UK and Ireland andreported sales of £247m in 2013, up 15%.

With the Kruidvat purchase, A.S. Watson hadestablished itself in several key markets at one fellswoop. In 2005 a number of major acquisitionsfurther cemented the retail group’s hold on the European beauty market. That year, A.S.Watson acquired a 40% share of Germany’s

LIVINGLARGEWith a recent history that reads as a catalogueof acquisitions, A.S. Watson today operatesover 11, 600 retail stores worldwide and is thelargest health and beauty retailer in Asia andEurope. Annemarie Kruse reports

A.S. WATSON

A.S. WATSON RETAIL PROFILE

A.S. Watson operates 13retail brands worldwide,including Dutch groupKrudivat. Its Watsonstores carry a widerange of own brand C&T products

Fact file: A.S. Watson

Founded 1828; officially started trading as A.S Watson in 1871

Owner CK Hutchison Holdings

Address Watson House, 1-5 Wo Liu Hang Road,Fo Tan, Shatin, N.T., Hong Kong

Contact telephone number +852 2606 8833

Website www.aswatson.com

A.S. Watson is the biggest health & beautyretailer in Asia and Europe. The origins of thechain go back to the mid-19th century, whenScottish emigré Thomas Boswell Watson opened amedical dispensary in Hong Kong. In 1871, theWatson family leased their business to merchantJohn Humphreys. From then on, the chain wasknown as A.S. Watson. In the 1880s, Humphreysturned A.S. Watson in a public company.

In 1963, Chinese tycoon Li Ka Shing and hisHutchison Whampoa group acquired the majorityof A.S. Watson’s shares and in 1981 A.S. Watsonbecame a fully owned subsidiary of HutchisonWhampoa Limited. The company then mergedwith the Cheung Kong Group on 3 June 2015 in areorganisation of the group’s businesses andrenamed CK Hutchison Holdings. Themultinational conglomerate has five corebusinesses – ports and related services, retail (A.S.Watson), infrastructure, energy andtelecommunications in over 50 countries.

Booming in AsiaThe A.S. Watson division operates 13 retailbrands, and 11,600 stores in total, in 24 marketsworldwide and in 2014 it generated a total revenueof HK$157bn. The division has over 110,000employees. Although the store portfolio alsoincludes several Asian food and electronics brands,the majority of A.S. Watson’s retail chains arefrom the C&T sector. And this business is doingvery well: in 2014, A.S. Watson’s total health andbeauty turnover grew 9% to HK$120,104m.

A.S. Watson operates its flagship Watsons storeschain in 12 worldwide markets. In Asia, thesemarkets include mainland China, Hong Kong,Taiwan and Macau, plus Korea and the southeastAsian countries Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia,Malaysia and the Philippines. In 2014, there werea total of 4,018 Watsons stores in Asia, an increaseof 13%. In mainland China alone, the number of

005 CBM 0715 retail profile_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:24 Page 5


6 CBM July 2015

RETAIL PROFILE A.S. WATSON

second-biggest drugstore retailer Rossmann. With3,300 outlets in Germany and five other Europeanmarkets and group sales of t7.2bn, up 8.7%, in2014, the Rossmann group is one of the biggestand most successful European drugstore chains.

Another important acquisition in 2005 wasFrench perfumery chain Marionnaud.Marionnaud currently operates some 570 outletsin France and the chain, which is number three inthe market, after LVMH-owned Sephora andDouglas-owned Nocibé, registered sales oft722m in 2013.

In addition, A.S. Watson purchased UKperfumery chain The Perfume Shop, whichoperates over 250 stores; Russian drugstore chainSpektr; and Turkish chain Cosmo Shop.

Looking to the EastOne year later, A.S. Watson acquired Ukrainiandrugstore retailer DC Group and successivelyrebranded the DC stores under the Watsons logo.Today, Watsons runs outlets in 45 Turkish citieswhile its Ukrainian business includes some 350stores and 25 pharmacies.

Latvian drugstore chain Drogas had beenacquired by A.S. Watson in 2004. With some 120stores in Latvia and Lithuania, Watsons is one ofthe biggest beauty retailers in the Baltic region.Although A.S. Watson kept the Drogas storename, the logo was relaunched in Watsons’corporate colours, turquoise and white.

However, all of A.S. Watson’s other WesternEuropean retail brands were left as they were afteracquisition. As a result, very few Europeancustomers are aware that the store chain they shopat each day actually belongs to one of the biggestChinese conglomerates.

A.S Watson’s European business has donerather well over the past year. In 2014, the group’shealth and beauty sales in Europe reached a totalof HK$78,853m, thereby accounting for themajority of the group’s worldwide beauty sales.

The Western European chains were responsiblefor the lion’s share of the European turnover,growing 6% to HK$64,505m. Still, EasternEurope managed an impressive 13% increase toHK$14,348m. In 2014, the number of stores inthis region grew 14% to 2,027, indicating thatEastern Europe is holding a key interest for theChinese retailer. In comparison, the number ofA.S. Watson’s western European stores only grew3% to 4,868 outlets.

The last few years have been quieter for theHong Kong retailer, with no major Europeanacquisitions to speak of. However, A.S. Watson iskeeping an eye on the market and in January 2015,the group continued its European shopping spreewith the acquisition of Dutch drugstore chainDirx. The Dirx stores will be integrated into theexisting Kruidvat and Trekpleister network,pending regulatory approval.

Beauty Studio by SuperdrugLast year Superdrug launched a new store formatthat specialises in high end beauty for the first time,enabling it to attract brands such as Marc Jacobs,Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, as well as exclusivelabels such as Make Up Revolution and Love YourSkin. The store, called Beauty Studio by Superdrugand located in Cardiff, also stocks products that areavailable in Superdrug stores as well a number ofdigital and interactive elements that enablescustomers to try out different hair styles andcolours, or take selfies and share them on socialmedia sites.And in 2015 Superdrug has been rolling out

elements of Beauty Studio across the country,including the new Cribbs Causeway store, whichopened earlier this year and includes a BeautyStudio zone.Superdrug has also been rolling out a new

standalone healthy living store, Wellbeing, the firstof which opened in Banbury last year, followed by asecond in Watford in February 2015.Superdrug has further plans to roll-out these

concepts and elements from them, during thecourse of the year. Meanwhile, the retailer has alsofocused on ‘refreshing’ 200 existing stores,bringing the total number of refreshed stores toover 700, and in May 2015 Superdrug announced

plans to open 100 new stores across the UK, with afocus on London and the South East over the nextthree years.Peter Macnab, Managing Director at Superdrug,

comments: “Last year we celebrated Superdrug’sfiftieth birthday and we honoured that heritage by investing in the store environment, shoppingexperience and looking for exciting new product ranges.”He added: “The [UK] high street remains a

challenging environment for all retailers.However, byunderstanding our customers and offering the bestvalue and customer service, we believe the businessis in a strong position to grow.”

Superdrug’s newBeauty Studio conceptstore specialises inhigh end beauty

A.S. Watson’s EasternEuropean chains grewan impressive 13% toHK$14,348m in 2014

005 CBM 0715 retail profile_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:24 Page 6


JUNE 2013 VOL 86 NO 6

ItalyIn the red

TEENSGroomed youth

PACKAGINGCompact & bijou

TESTINGAnimal alternatives

SEPTEMBER 2013 VOL 86 NO 9

Spain Shoots of recovery

BODY CAREValue for money

NANOTECHNOLOGYSize matters

PACKAGINGSustainability success

APRIL 2013 VOL 86 NO 4

CHINA MARKETExpanding horizons

FRAGRANCESustainable success

PACKAGINGInnovation atCosmopack

Suncare:marketanalysisTaking the heat

GLOBALTOP 50BRANDS2013

JULY 2013 VOL 86 NO 7

UKmarketreport

Spending spree

NATURALSSkin care specifics

PACKAGINGMaking contact

COSMETICS BUSINESSINNOVATION AWARDSThe winning formula

JANUARY 2013 VOL 86 NO 1

SUB-SAHARAN AFRICAGrowing demand

SILICONES & ALTERNATIVESVariety & choice

SCS FORMULATEKnowing your market

colourcosmeticsBright outlook

PLANT &PACKAGINGGUIDE &PROFILES

AUGUST 2013 VOL 86 NO 8

RAWMATERIALSGUIDE &COMPANYPROFILES

LatinAmerica

Target markets

NUTRICOSMETICSBeauty bites back

INGREDIENTSNatural alternatives

PACKAGINGMaterial world

SPC OFFERGET YOUR OWNCOPY TODAY★ 12 monthly editions of SPC★ Exclusive combined print and online subscription★ 10% saving when you subscribe for two years

To claim your discount:– visit: hpcimedia.com – email: [email protected]– call: +44 (0) 207 193 1279

SPC 2014_Layout 1 24/02/2014 12:22 Page 1


France In one of the strongest performances inEurope last year, France posted an impressive 6%rise in deodorant sales to total t500m, accordingto Nielsen. Growth was driven by the innovationfor compressed spray deodorants, developed byUnilever, which saw the company overtake L’Oréalas market leader in 2014 with a value share of33.3%. Future opportunities look bright formanufacturers as the French deodorant market isnot yet mature.

Germany It has been a turbulent past year for theGerman antiperspirant deodorant (APD) market.Although value sales overall were positive, growingby 2.6% to t668.45m and volume sales were up3.7% to 362.16m units, there was a steep drop insales of antiperspirants for the first time in years,according to IRI Germany. Currently accountingfor more than half of the market, the category fellby 5% to t346.20m due to reports about thealleged negative effects of aluminium salts.

Italy Sales continued to stale in Italy’s APDmarket, with Cosmetica Italia reporting a 1.2% dipto t405m and all channels suffering from thedownward trend. 45% of the category’s revenuecomes from hypermarkets and supermarkets, but

sales fell in this channel by 1.7% to t182.4m,although perfumeries were the worst hit, declining9.9% to t17.9m. Market performance wasprobably not helped by a quieter year in terms ofproduct launches. Nevertheless, brands focused onluring customers with enticing fragrances, skincaring benefits and long lasting protection.

DEODORANTSMARKET SUMMARY The $17.1bnglobal deodorant market was looking patchyin 2014. Certain countries, including France,Russia, Brazil, Argentina, India and Iranwere propelled by bursts of strong growth. TheUK, Germany and Spain saw some moderateincreases, while sales turned stale in Italy

8 CBM July 2015

MARKET REPORT DEODORANTS

France

Nivea

Narta

Sanex

Dove

Lynx/Axe

Spain

Sanex

Lynx/Axe

Nivea

Sure/Rexona

Dove

Total top 5

Nivea

Sure/Rexona

Dove

Lynx/Axe

Adidas

Italy

Dove

Nivea

Neutro Roberts

Borotalco

Infasil

Germany

Nivea

Sure/Rexona

Lynx/Axe

Dove

Balea Men

UK

Sure/Rexona

Dove

Lynx/Axe

Nivea

Right Guard

Russia

Nivea

Sure/Rexona

Adidas

Lynx/Axe

Garnier

Europe: Top 5 deodorants by country

Source: Kantar Worldpanel personal care usage panel. Rankings refer to weighted penetration (% using) among men & women using deodorant & body sprayover the 12 months ended March 2015. For more information contact Benjy Daaku ([email protected]) or the Kantar Worldpanel team atCamargue ([email protected])

008_CBM 0715_MarketReport_intro_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:43 Page 8


July 2015 CBM 9

Each month Cosmetics Business Markets and Kantar Worldpanel present exclusive research into a product category. This month we look at deodorants

France Germany Italy Spain GB Russia

Prevent odour Freshen up

Pleasant fragrance Prevent perspiration

% Penetration of use in an average week (men & women)

TotalWesternEurope

Poland

56

41

30 30

58

36

31

38

59

47

37

31

42 43

25

8

56

35

2220

61

41

30

42

61

50

36 36

54

64

42 44

Total France Germany Italy Spain GB Russia

Deodorant & body spray Total aerosols/sprays

Roll-on Stick

% Penetration of use in an average week (men & women)

TotalWesternEurope

Poland

80

47

27

9

80

49

27

7

76

41

26

11

81

52

26

6

75

49

19

8

85

4239

6

86

58

27

5

76

36

27

14

86

55

25

11

If you have anyquestions on EuropeanC&T, email CBM([email protected])or Maya Zawislak atKantar Worldpanel([email protected])

Q2Why do people use deodorant?The most important usage driver in most countries ispreventing odour. However, for Italians and Polish theneed to freshen up is even more important. Preventingperspiration divides European consumers, with Italyand Spain less interested than Poland and the UK

Deodorants: European usage facts

DEODORANTS MARKET REPORT

Spain Some interesting developments were awaftin Spain last year, as the men’s deodorant categorygrew by 4% and women’s deodorants rose by 3%.Overall, however, the market remained flat (0.1%)at t250.8m, according to IRI Spain, due to the4% decline of mixed or unisex deodorants tot105.5m. Another shift was the stagnation of ownbrand products, which fell by 10% to t44.2m.

UK As a mature market, the chance of deodorantsales spiking in the UK is low, and with thenumber and depth of promotions over the pastyear, it has not been easy for brands. Despite this,the market did at least remain stable, up 1.3% to£582.879m according to Kantar Worldpanel.Unilever remained the dominant manufacturer,with a value share of more than 61% and sales of£399m. Meanwhile, Soft & Gentle and Tesco’sPro Formula also adopted the compressed format.

Russia Reporting growth of 6.9% toRUB21.60bn, deodorants was one of the bestperforming C&T categories in Russia in 2014according to Euromonitor. While this figure waslower than expected, the category remains on apositive trend due to increased understanding ofthe hygiene benefits of deodorants.

Global round up This issue focuses on threeinteresting markets: Brazil, the world’s largest,driven by near universal usage of deodorants;Argentina, a vast market with value sales that grewby a staggering 39% in 2014 according toEuromonitor; and Iran, an emerging market thatincreased by 29% in 2014, driven by the youngergeneration. Deodorant sprays are most popular,often used as an cheap alternative to fragrancesamong women.

Manufacturers kept the US$17.1bn globaldeodorant market (source: Statistica) feelingfresh with new innovations in 2014, and marketsincluding Brazil, Argentina, India and Iranbenefited from increased penetration levels andgrowing interest in products with added benefits.

The world’s leading market, Brazil, grew astaggering 82% between 2009 and 2013according to Mintel, with the expansion of themiddle-class and value-added formats drivinggrowth. “Deodorants enjoy nearly universalusage in the Brazilian market, as it represents apersonal care “staple” with most people using itmore than once a day,” comments RenataMoura, Mintel’s Research Manager in Brazil.

Other rapidly developing deodorant markets in2014 included India and Iran. India’s deodorantmarket has exploded over the past six to sevenyears with an annual growth rate of 18% andsales totalling US$338m in the 12 months to May2014, according to Nielsen. Yet, being a youngmarket, deodorants are currently only used by10% of the 1.28 billion population, leaving plentyof scope for further penetration and productdevelopment in this market.

In Iran, deodorant sales grew by 28% in 2014 toreach US$150.60m according to EuromonitorInternational. “Deodorants are still at a nascentstage in Iran,” says Euromonitor. “Awarenessregarding the importance of these products isvery limited, with the bulk of consumers still notconsidering them as an everyday necessity. Thisrepresents a major opportunity for growth.”

Trend watch: Deodorants hot upin Brazil, Argentina, India and Iran

SPECIALFOCUS

INDIA: DEODORANTSTO RISE BY 26.8% TURN TO PAGE 30

Q1Which formats are most popular acrossEurope?Aerosols are the most important format across allcountries, and stand out most significantly in the UKand Poland. However, roll-ons are equal in Spain andsticks are more popular in Russia than elsewhere

008_CBM 0715_MarketReport_intro_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 10:43 Page 9


In 2014 France pressed the button on freshgrowth in deodorants, as the market enjoyed asurge of innovation from the leading brands andsome sparky new players joined the fray.

According to figures from Nielsen, the Frenchdeodorant market grew by 6% in value to t500m(sales through hypermarkets and supermarketsfor the year to November 2014). Not only is thisthe highest growth the market has seen in recentyears, it also represents the strongest progressionof any of the health and beauty productcategories in France, which overall grew by just0.8% to t2.9bn.

Figures from IRI France covering the year to 31May 2015 reflect a much flatter level of growth,however. According to these results, the marketinched up by just 0.2% over this period in valueterms to t481.86m however volume growth wasbrighter, up 2.4% to 144.58m units. Both women’sand men’s deodorants rose by 0.6% to t253.87mand t216.80m respectively while volumes enjoyeda 2.7% and 2.9% boost to 78.33m for women’sand 62.05m units for men’s.

Sprays performed best compared to otherformats, for both female and male-orientedproducts, and they also account for the lion’s shareof the market. Women’s sprays increased by 1.9%to t150.99m and 2.9% in volume to 48.74munits, while men’s sprays grew by 2.1% tot145.71m and 3.3m to 41.94m units.

Roll-on formats, for men especially, were alsomore on the ball than they were last year,registering an impressive 4.8% rise in volumes to12.24m units and 1.9% in value sales tot43.34m. An improved performance was alsonoted in women’s roll-ons, growing by 2.3% to25.03m units. The 1.5% decline in value terms tot84.51m was also less significant than theprevious year. Sticks and creams continued to fallout of favour with consumers in general,however, as did unisex deodorants and wipeswhich recorded some significant losses – a doubledigit decline to t11.18m.

Unilever propels to No.1The most important event in the Frenchdeodorants market in 2014 was the introductionof compressed technology, enabling packaging tobe smaller in size and use 50% less gas propellant,25% less aluminium and a carbon footprintreduction by up to 25%. But the deodorants arenot just smaller; they are also more concentrated,

enabling them to deliver the same amount of usesas a regular sized spray. Unilever brought thisinnovation to France in February 2014 inwomen’s sprays for its Rexona, Monsavon andDove brands and the response from consumershas been considerable.

According to Nielsen figures, Unilever replacedL’Oréal as the number one deodorant company inFrance in 2014 due to its compressed aerosols,taking 33.3% of the French deodorant market,compared to L’Oréal’s 32.7% with its Narta,Cadum, Ushuaia and Mennen brands. “Thecompressed formats have allowed us to takeleadership of this market”, says François-XavierApostolo, Vice President of Marketing for Homeand Personal Care at Unilever. To put this intocontext, at the end of 2013 Unilever had a marketshare of 27% (source: Nielsen), representing ahuge leap in the space of a year as the companyleft 2014 taking a third of all deodorant sales inFrance. Furthermore, sales of compresseddeodorants for women already account for amarket share of approximately 15%.

This is proof indeed that Unilever has been ableto successfully convince French consumers that itis worth switching to the compressed format,aided by the company increasing its advertisingspending by 15% last year and launching somemajor television campaigns. Indeed, figures fromTNS Sofres reveal that 92% of French peoplebelieve that protecting the environment isimportant in everyday life, and (according to aCommission of Sustainable Development report)it is an important or very important purchasecriterion for 77% of French.

In 2015 Unilever the company has taken “larévolution Compressé” further by launching eightnew references for women to continue to growthe migration to this new technology. With thelaunch of new products within its Monsavon,Rexona and Dove brands Unilever will beincreasing the number of compressed deodorantsin its women’s portfolio to 60% this year from34% in 2014.

Joining the Dove range are two new references,including Dove Go Fresh Grenade & VerveineCitronnée which incorporates a pomegranate

France Growthspurt

France: Deodorant market, 2014-2015

wm %+/- Unitsm %+/-

Total 481.86 0.2 144.58 2.4

Women’s 253.87 0.6 78.33 2.7

Sprays 150.99 1.9 48.74 2.9

Roll-ons 84.51 -1.5 25.03 2.3

Sticks/creams 18.38 -0.6 4.56 1.6

Men’s 216.80 0.6 62.05 2.9

Sprays 145.71 2.1 41.94 3.3

Roll-ons 43.34 1.9 12.24 4.8

Sticks/creams 27.74 -8.4 7.87 -2.1

Unisex and wipes 11.18 -11.7 4.20 -7.4*Sales through super/hypermarkets, year to 31 May 2015. Totals may not equal sector valuesdue to rounding. Source: IRI France

The deodorantmarket is not yetmature – thepenetration rate is 70% – which isbelow the otherhygiene categorieslike shower andhair, so there is abig potential forfurther recruitmentthat allows us toanticipate growthover the comingyearsSophie Vassy, ProductManager, Deodorants and Liquid Soaps at Le Petit Marseillais

“

“

10 CBM July 2015


6%Value growth of

deodorants in France,2014

Source: Nielsen

008_CBM 0715_MarketReport_Passed.qxp_Layout 1 07/07/2015 10:24 Page 10


fragrance, the number one preferred scent on themarket according to Nielsen, along with verbenafor a fresh yet delicate perfumed deodorant. Thesecond new compressed deodorant is Dove TalcSoft, with a delicate powdery fragrance, whichalso comes in a roll-on format. Meanwhile,Monsavon’s range has been extended with a newvariant, Lait, Grenade & Fleur de Jasmin, a fruityand tangy milk, pomegranate and jasmine flowerscent that brings the brand’s total number ofcompressed spray deodorants to four.

And Rexona has extended its MotionSensetechnology throughout its range, includingcompressed formats and also introduced InvisibleBlack + White which incorporates a formulawhich is proven to protect clothes from white andyellow marks, as well as offering 48-hourprotection. The new range is available in the100ml compressed aerosol format and roll-on.

However, what is more likely to grow furthersubstantial growth this year for Unilever is itslaunch of the compressed format across its men’sbrand portfolio – Rexona Men, Axe and Williams.Already launched successfully in the UK, Unileverintroduced 11 references in January and thecompany expects that the notoriety of thecompressed format with 80% of women in Francewill undoubtedly help to translate to sales of themen’s products, as they remain the key purchasersin the deodorant category. The company launchedfive Axe, four Rexona Men and two Williamsdeodorants in the compressed format, includingthis year’s Axe fragrance range Black, a moresophisticated and sleeker design and subtle andrefined fragrance with the tagline “less is more”.

As Unilever is not patenting this technology –which it says is to reaffirm its commitment to theenvironment and provide all competing brandsthe opportunity to use the compressed format –more brands are expected to launch their owndeodorants with this technology.

However, Beiersdorf also launched a same-sized100ml range with Nivea Pocket earlier this year,which does not use the compressed technology,but targets consumers looking for convenient on-the-go deodorants. The launch sparked acomplaint by Unilever to the tribunal decommerce de Paris which criticised the similarityof the product designs of the Nivea Pocketrange – in particular that they could leadconsumers to think the deodorants used the sametechnology and offer the same amount of uses,while being sold for a lower price. Following thecomplaint, Beiersdorf made a packagingamendment after reportedly coming to anagreement with Unilever, and Nivea’s Pocketdeodorants continue to be sold in France.

Dynamic growthThe French deodorant market has become ahotbed of innovation in recent years, and Johnson& Johnson’s significant roll-out of Le PetitMarseillais into the deodorant market last April,with four sprays and roll-ons containing essentialoils sourced from Provence, has also helped todrive the category’s recent dynamic growth.Speaking to Cosmetics Business Markets about

the brand’s first year in the deodorant market,Sophie Vassy, Product Manager, Deodorants andLiquid Soaps at Le Petit Marseillais comments:“We have achieved a great launch year. We caneven talk about it as the best Le Petit Marseillaislaunch if we compare performances spread over12 months, to the last categories that welaunched into (hair care in in 2003 and body carein 2007).

At the end of December 2014, we became oneof the key players in the market, in eighthposition with a market share of 3.4% (betweenJune and December). And within our segment,perfumed deodorants, we have even taken thirdplace, in front of Tahiti (Colgate-Palmolive) andFa (Henkel).”

Vassy notes that Le Petit Marseillais hasrecruited more than one million women to usethe brand’s deodorants: “The launch has alsobenefited all of the entire Le Petit Marseillaisbrand. In fact with deodorants, the brand haspassed the threshold of 50% penetration! And wehave continued our conquest with greatdynamism in 2015. At the end of May valuemarket share was 3.3%.”

The importance of innovation is paramount tothe growth of the deodorant category. In factaccording to Vassey, innovation accounted for40% of category growth. “In 2014, we observeda very positive context for the market whichgrew in value and volume (respectively up 85.2and 5.6% vs. 2014 according to Nielsen), andcontinues to recruit new consumers (360, 000individuals according to Kantar, 2014),” saysVassey. She claims that Le Petit Marseillais was

Launch highlight: Old Spicedeodorants burst into FranceOld Spice (P&G) has joined the Frenchsupermarket scene this year, enteringsupermarket chains E. Leclerc in May, followed byAuchan and Système U in June. In September itwill also launch in Cora. Known for its humorousadvertising and tongue-in-cheek tagline “The manyour man could smell like”, thebrand has launched eight lines:Whitewater, Danger Tme,Swagger, Lagoon, WolfThorn,HawkRidge, BearGlove andLionPride available in 150mlspray formats. The brand, whichannounced last year that itwould be entering the Frenchmarket, has supported thelaunch with its first advertisingcampaign in the country, a videospecially adapted for Francecalled Ça Va Faire Mâle (it’llmake you male) featuring actorand former pro-footballer TerryCrews. Old Spice, which is alsoavailable on Amazon in France,sold out its inventory in less than a week after the video was launched on YouTube and Facebook.

July 2015 CBM 11


Unilever launched itsrange of compresseddeodorants across itsmen’s portfolio –Rexona Men, Axe andWilliams – last year



the leading contributor to the growth of thewomen’s deodorant category.

Offering reassuranceAnd brands have zeroed in on several trends toprovide new innovation. The main market trendremains very functional: efficacy, with manybrands offering 24 or 48-hour protection asstandard, yet many innovations pick up on severaltrends. Vassey notes that a key trend is for “morenaturalness and reassurance – we know thatdeodorant consumers want reassurance. There is areal passion for it, especially after the controversyover certain ingredients such as aluminium salts,alum stone and parabens.”

Le Petit Marsellais’ deodorants, for example,offer 24-hour protection and are free fromaluminium salts, parabens and alcohol. They alsoavoid leaving white or yellow marks on clothes.The approach, says Vassey is “fun and caring” andthe latest products, launched in March this yearare fragranced with pomegranate, a scent that hasbecome very popular in the deodorant market andsage essential oil. Huile Essentielle de Sauge &Grenade de Méditerranée is a sparkling and tangy

fragranced deodorant that comes in a 200ml sprayand a 50ml roll-on.

L’Oréal has clearly had some stiff competitionover the past year, but is fighting back with anumber of innovative new ranges across itsdeodorant portfolio that also pick up on thetrend for naturalness, reassurance and efficacy.Cadum, for example, introduced a range that isfree from aluminium salts, alcohol andparabens, while also offering 48% greaterefficacy against odour and humidity comparedwith previous formulas as well as “100%respect for the skin”. Cadum DéodorantMicro Talc is formulated with soft micro-talcparticles that are said to absorb nearly 50% oftheir weight in water, leaving skin feelingsmooth, and perlites, which absorb up to 3.5times their weight in water. Meanwhile theaddition of new ingredient pidolic zincprotects against body odour. There are fiveperfumed varieties, including FraîcheurCoton, Fraîcheur Anti-Traces, FraîcheurFleur d’Oranger, Fraîcheur Pivoine andFraîcheur Hypoallergénique. Each isavailable in a spray and roll-on format, apart

Brand watch: BourjoisBourjois was established in 1863 by French actorJoseph-Albert Ponsin, who created make-up forstage performers. At the turn of the 20th century,the brand was purchased by Chanel’s Wertheimerfamily, and in April this year, Bourjois was wasacquired by Coty. In France, the brand offers anextensive range of deodorants and shower gels aswell as its core colour cosmetics products. Thisyear the brand introduced Déodorant Haute Fidélitéwhich is designed to combine effectiveness withfemininity, with a 72-hour anti-perspirant action,stay-dry formula to keep under arms dry and allowthe user to dress immediately after application, agentle alcohol-free formula and a long lasting floralfragrance with notes of musk and peony. Theproduct, with its eye-catching bottle design andbreton stripes motif, is available in a 200mldeodorant spray. Cosmetics Business Marketsspeaks to Samya Anchoum, International SeniorProduct Manager – Fragrances & Body Care atBourjois about the brand’s positioning in thedeodorant market

How has the past year been for the deodorantmarket in France?The deodorant market in France grew by 6% in2014, the best performance of all beauty/hygienecategories. This growth was driven by thecompressed format innovation for spraydeodorants. Twice as small as the usual 200mldeodorant (100ml), they contain as many activeagents and can be used for as long as the 200ml size.

How does Bourjois’ new High Trust deodorantrespond to current consumer demands fordeodorants?Bourjois’ new High Trust deodorant responds to astrong consumer expectation: efficiency. Thanks toits infallible dry formula it guarantees fresh

underarms for 72 hours. What’s more, it has a longlasting sophisticated ‘flowery’ fragrance inspired byfine fragrance: peony and musk.

The deodorant market is mature and highlycompetitive. What does Bourjois offer consumersthat sets it apart?Bourjois is a challenger brand on the deodorantcategory which is globally over led by a few groupswith high investments. Nevertheless,Bourjois has a very unique positioningwhich is appealing for both retailersand consumers. It relies on ourspecific names and execution, ontextures, quality, and above all onour perfume compositions that arebenchmarked on fine fragrances.We sum up our positioning bysaying Bourjois hygiene products(shower gels and deodorants) offerperfumer quality at an accessibleprice, and on deodorant especially,we are the only brand to reconcileefficiency with high femininity andsophisticated perfumes.

What do you think the outlook isfor the deodorant market in Francefor the coming year?For next year, it is likely that a lot ofother brands will go for thecompressed format technology.Efficiency remains the mainexpectation on the category so wecan predict that strong newtechnologies will emerge in thisway. The promises of efficiency are growing more and moreprecise, adapting to each body and each user.

Samya AnchoumInternational SeniorProduct Manager –Fragrances & BodyCare at Bourjois

12 CBM July 2015




from Fleur d’Oranger, which comes in a sprayformat only.

The Group’s Narta brand innovated withDéodorant Pierre d’Alun Micro-Huiles, whichcombines two active minerals, alum stone for itsanti-bacterial properties and perlite, whichabsorbs moisture for provide 48-hour efficacy.However, the new range is also formulated withtwo micronised oils to provide the skin withsoftening and soothing benefits. These includevirgin sweet almond oil to nourish the mostdelicate skin, and monoï oil to help moisturise andprotect the upper layers of the epidermis. Therange, which includes a spray and roll-on isfragranced with citrus and fruit accords in the topnotes; a flowery heart of rose, lily, violet andfrangipani; and a woody and vanilla base.

Skin soothersSkin care benefits continue to be anotherimportant element for deodorant brands toshoehorn into their developments, even for brandsthat have traditionally based their ranges on otherpropositions, such as perfume. L’Oréal’s Ushuaïabrand, for example launched a new deodorant inJanuary in its Polynésie line that is said to be idealfor shaved underarm skin, as it combines thebenefits of almond oil to protect and soothe thedelicate area while also being formulated withoutalcohol. The neroli petal-scented Déodorant SoinHuile d’Amandier et Pétales de Néroli spray isformulated without aluminium salts, but withperlite like L’Oréal’s other launches this year,offering 24-hour anti-moisture and anti-odourefficacy for the spray and 48-hours prolongedeffect for the roll-on.

Meanwhile, Narta was back with another newrange, this time promising to be the firstdeodorant which makes underarm hair growth lessvisible for longer. According to a U&A Francestudy in 2012, 94% of women shave or wax theirarmpits, while four in ten women complain ofirritation and discomfort from rough and irregularhair growth, black shadows and ingrown hairs.Furthermore, 51% of men now shave theirarmpits. Narta’s solution is Peau Parfaite, a rangewhich claims to improve the quality of skin textureand soften the hair for a closer shave, makingregrowth less visible and less frequent shavespossible, while also reducing irritation. The rangecontains a molecule called LHA, derived fromsalicylic acid, which helps to soften hairfacilitating a closer shave and making regrowthless visible. On skin, the molecule is said to refineskin texture. The deodorants, which offer 48 hourprotection, are available in both men’s andwomen’s variants in spray and roll-on formats.

A final women’s deodorant launch from L’Oréalcomes again from Cadum, this time focusing on asolution that is gentle on delicate fabrics, as well assensitive skin. Invisible Délicat Extraits de Cotonis free from parabens, aluminium salts and alcoholand is especially formulated to prevent spotting onclothes. It is also formulated with cottonseedextract to sooth and soften delicate underarm skin,while offering a scent of fresh clean linen.

Back at Unilever, Dove added a skin caring

deodorant to its regular range of non-compresseddeodorants, called Dove Pierre d’Alun et Beurrede Karité. Combining alum stone, shea butter andDove’s 1/4 moisturising cream, it is said to leaveskin moisturised and protected for 24 hours. Thealcohol and paraben-free deodorant is scentedwith notes of mandarin, bergamot, musk, rose andmagnolia.

And natural beauty brand Annemarie Börlindintroduced several new deodorants with skin carebenefits as part of its recently launched body carerange Body Lind. Baume Déodorant Roll-on isformulated with sweet almond oil for moisturisethe skin and protect it from free radicals, andcamelina oil, rich in omega 3 and 6 to calm redand irritated skin and reinforce the protectivebarrier of the skin. The roll-on is said to beparticularly delicate and guarantees a pleasantfresh sensation. There are also two sprays in therange, Spray Déodorant Naturel and the limitededition Spray Déodorant Naturel Fresh, whichare gentle enough for all skin types and includesage essential oil for its disinfectant andperspiration-reducing benefits.

Just for menThe men’s deodorant market tends to be drivenless by skin care benefits and free-from claims andmore by ultra-efficacy and fragrance. L’Oréal hasinnovated in both of these areas over the past year,with its Men Expert brand introducing ThermicResist, the first 48-hour antiperspirant that isformulated to remain effective at 45°C. Designedfor men to use during intense physical activity, inhigh temperatures or in stressful situations,Thermic Resist is billed as the “ultimate solutionto fight against times of excess sweat and badodours”.

Meanwhile Ushuaïa’s Homme’s new range,Terre, is a collection of four nature-inspiredfragranced deodorants offering intense andpowerful scents and 48-hour efficacy. Terre deFeu is a hot and spicy fragrance inspired bymelting magna; Terre d’Ébène is a woodyfragrance that combines notes of fern and amber;Terre d’Orage incorporates aquatic and ozonicnotes; and Terre D’Origine features green notesand a fresh spicy woody trail.

Deodorants and anti-perspirants may appearto be an unassuming category compared to thelikes of its more glamorous C&T cousins, suchas facial skin care or colour cosmetics, but it hasin fact emerged as one of the most exciting. Thelevel of innovation that brands are bringing tothe French market has created growth that issimply not being achieved in other C&Tcategories. Plus it has another, winning reason tobe quietly confident about maintaining itssuccessful growth rate. Vassy explains: “Thedeodorant market is not yet mature – thepenetration rate is 70%, which is below the otherhygiene categories like shower and hair, so thereis a big potential for further recruitment thatallows us to anticipate growth over the comingyears. Also, we know that the first driver ofmarket growth is innovation, and we havealready seen many great initiatives this year.”

July 2015 CBM 13


Consumers are lookingfor reassurance fromdeodorant brands,which have respondedby launching productsfree from aluminiumsalts and parabens



The German antiperspirant deodorant (APD)market turned in satisfactory results last year.According to IRI Germany, the total sector(including men’s and women’s deodorants andantiperspirants) grew 2.6% to t668.45m in 2014.Volume sales reached 362.16m units last year, up 3.7%.

Looking at the figures in more detail, aerosolswere, yet again, the most successful format lastyear. This sub-category accounted for 60.2% ofthe value and 66.4% of the volume market, withturnover growing 2.3% to t402.45m and 3.4% to240.49m units respectively.

Next in line were roll-ons with a 20.9% valueshare and turnover worth t139.75m, up 0.4%,while volume grew 2.0% to 84.95m units whichequals 23.5% of the volume market. Pump spraysreached an 11% share of the value market whichtranslates into turnover of t73.55m, up 10.9%.And although in terms of volume sales, pumpsprays only account for a 5.8% slice of the market,the sub-category shot up 15.9% to 21.14m units.Deodorant sticks were the fourth-biggest sub-category, with sales of t47.36m last year, anincrease of 1.1% while volume grew 5.8% to13.94m units.

Deodorant creams fell 6.3% to t4.77m lastyear with volume sales doing equally badly, down7.3% to 1.29m units. And boxed deodorants –including crystals and other solid formats –plummeted 32.2% to t0.31m and 31.7% to0.16m. The final category, deodorant wipes,managed increases of 3.6% to t0.26m and 5% to0.20m units respectively.

Salt and shake upThe positive overall result of the sector is evenmore remarkable when you consider thatantiperspirants, which account for more than halfof the entire market, registered a poorperformance in 2014. This category dropped 5%to t346.20m in value and 4.1% to 204.91m involume. Standard deodorants, on the other hand,climbed 12.2% to t322.25m and 16% to157.25m units.

This development can be traced back to theongoing public discussion about the healthdangers – or otherwise – of aluminium salts(aluminium chlorohydrate or ACH), aningredient commonly used in antiperspirants.There is no confirmed medical data about a linkbetween ACH and cancer but even so, this is

something that worries many consumers. Andalthough the aluminium salts issue pops upregularly in the German media – especially in thecoverage of influential consumer testingmagazines Ökotest and Stiftung Warentest – lastyear the debate returned in full force and on amuch larger scale.

This has shaken up the entire sector: severalAPD manufacturers hurriedly relaunched theirdeodorants with distinctive aluminium-freepackaging claims, a wave of ACH-free productshit the market and quite a few brands lostsignificant market share, while others becamemore popular.

An Analyst at IRI Germany confirms: “Since theincrease in media reports about the allegednegative effects of aluminium salts in APDproducts last year, aluminium-free deodorantshave shown double digit growth especially amongfemale consumers. Turnover of antiperspirants, onthe other hand, has fallen for the first time inyears. As a result, organic brands like Weleda orSpeick but also labels like Nivea, Sebamed andCD, which have an aluminium salts-free, naturalor skin-friendly positioning, have benefited fromthis trend.”

The APD market is characterised by a mixtureof local and international brands. The drugstoreretailers’ own label brands, especially DM’s Baleaand Rossmann’s Isana, play a very important rolesince they frequently launch limited editionswhich drive the entire sector forward.

Among the retail brands, the big players includeBeiersdorf’s Nivea and 8x4, Henkel with Fa,Unilever’s Dove, Duschdas and Rexona, Coty withAdidas, L’Oréal Paris with Garnier and

14 CBM July 2015


GermanyA storm of salts

Germany: APD market, by format, 2014

wm %+/- Units m %+/-

Total market 668.45 2.6 362.16 3.7

Aerosols 402.45 2.3 240.49 3.4

Roll-ons 139.75 0.4 84.95 2.0

Pump sprays 73.55 10.9 21.14 15.9

Sticks 47.36 1.1 13.94 5.8

Creams 4.77 -6.3 1.29 -7.3

Crystals 0.31 -32.2 0.16 -31.7

Wipes 0.26 3.6 0.20 5.0

Source: IRI Germany. Totals may not equal sector values due to rounding

Germany, APD market, by market share, 2014

wm %+/- Units m %+/-

Total market 100.00 2.6 100.00 3.7

Aerosols 60.2 2.3 66.4 3.4

Roll-ons 20.9 0.4 23.5 2.0

Pump sprays 11.0 10.9 5.8 15.9

Sticks 7.1 1.1 3.8 5.8

Creams 0.7 -6.3 0.4 -7.3

Crystals 0.0 -32.2 0.0 -31.7

Wipes 0.0 3.6 0.1 5.0

Source: IRI Germany

-5%Decrease in

antiperspirant valuesales in 2014

Source: IRI Germany

Henkel’s Fa brandprimarily focuses onfragrance, but recentlaunches also offer48-hour protection



Launch highlight: Alverde DeoCreamAlverde made deodorant headlines with its latestdeodorant cream launch. Creams are a veryunder-represented segment of the APD market.There are few mainstream drugstore brands thateven carry this format – this is hardly surprisingsince the average German APD user tends toprefer the more convenient aerosol or roll-on. Inthe organic deodorants sector, however,consumers tend to see things differently. As a rule, organic consumers are very eco-

conscious indeed. Aerosols – or any otherpropellant-powered APD formats – areconsidered a big no-go and organic brands likeSpeick, Weleda and Lavera offer their deodorantsas pump sprays or roll-ons. And while manyorganic beauty fans like the convenience of theseformats, the organic demographic also tends tobuy more deodorant creams than the averagecosmetics user.The big mainstream organic brands rarely offer

creams in their deodorant line-up, however, somany organic beauty fans buy their deodorantsonline. There is a host of small artisan organicbrands that specialise in hand-made cosmetics –among the better known brands are Wald Seifen,Wolkenfussel and PonyHütchen – and usually offera wide range of deodorant creams. These aretypically based on shea butter or coconut oil withsodium bicarbonate, zinc oxide or starch asdeodorising ingredients. However, very fewretailers actually stock these products and youhave to order them through the Internet. Which is why the recent launch of Alverde’s

Deo-Creme Lemongrass Salbei was eagerlyanticipated on many organic beauty blogs andconsumer forums. Deo-Creme Lemongrass Salbeicontains anti-bacterial zinc, organic witch hazelextract, moisturising sunflower oil, organiclemongrass extract and sage extract. The textureis described as light and creamy and the productis claimed to keep the skin dryand fresh, preventingunpleasant odours.This launch might also have

a signal function for theorganic deodorants market.Alverde is an immenselypopular brand with a very widedistribution. And wheneverAlverde – or stable-mate Baleafor that matter – introduces anew product format or category,it tends to spur other retail brandsinto action.

Lornamead with CD. Although most companiesoffer both deodorant sprays and antiperspirant intheir APD line-ups, 8x4, Fa and Duschdas areamong the brands that primarily focus onfragrance-based deodorant body sprays. Adidas,Rexona and Garnier, on the other hand, tend tohave more functional antiperspirant products.

Free-from formulasNivea, the star brand of personal caremanufacturer Beiersdorf, is one of the mostpopular deodorant brands on the market. Niveahas an extensive APD portfolio which includesalmost a dozen variants. In early 2014 the brandrelaunched its aerosol range with an elegant newcap-free design. There were also two new productlaunches last year which, perhaps not entirelysurprisingly, were aluminium-free deodorants.

And indeed, IRI comments: “For Nivea inparticular, aluminium-free deodorants were one ofthe main growth drivers last year. In addition, thebrand received a good review in StiftungWarentest’s study of aluminium-free deodorants lastyear. This also helped Nivea’s turnover.”

In October 2014, Nivea launched Fresh PureDeodorant. The ACH-free formula includes aspecial ingredient, Bio-Florine complex, which isclaimed to offer protection against odour for up to48 hours. Michael Urban from Nivea Deodorant’sR&D department explains: “Sweat itself doesn’tsmell. However, our skin surface – especially themoist and humid armpit area – contains millions ofbacteria which react with the sweat and cause theunpleasant smell. Our antibacterial Bio-Florinecomplex keeps the bacteria from growing andtherefore helps to prevent odour development.”

And just a few months ago, the brand came out with ACH-free Fresh Flower Deo Spray, a feminine deodorant scented with a soft jasmine fragrance.

Stablemate 8x4, another classic on the market,also came out with a summer-inspired deodorantoffering in April. The aluminium-free 8x4 Ocean Fresh Deodorant Spray combines intensefloral notes of blue lotus and aromatic water lily with accords of fruity peach. The lightfragrance is claimed to evoke a feeling offreedom and freshness.

Like 8x4, Henkel’s Fa is more fragrance-inspiredthan functional. The brand’s popular bath andbody care sub-brand, Moments, is regularlyextended with new product ranges. These alwaysinclude a deodorant spray in addition to one ortwo bath and shower products.

Last August Fa introduced the GlamorousMoments range, which features top notes ofgreen tea and bergamot built around a heart ofblack orchid, voluptuous jasmine and sweet lily ofthe valley, and a base of aromatic sandalwood andvanilla. And this April, Fa relaunched its Fresh &Dry Grüner Tee (green tea) antiperspirant spraywith a new formula. The ingredients complexnow includes Non-Stop Fresh technologyclaimed to protect against wetness and odour forup to 48 hours.

DM’s Balea has a prolific launch pace across allC&T categories and this also includes the

deodorant sector. The brand’s frequent bath andbody care limited editions always include adeodorant spray, too. Since Balea’s deodorantstend to be fragrance-focused rather thanfunctional, the majority of the brand’s deodorantsnow carry prominent “free from aluminium salts”stickers on the packaging.

In August 2014, the brand brought out deodorantsprays to match the two limited edition shower gels,Shining Berry and Shining Kiwi. Scented with notesof sweet raspberry fragrance and fruity kiwirespectively, the aluminium salts-free deodorant

July 2015 CBM 15


Since theincrease in mediareports about thealleged negativeeffects ofaluminium saltsin APD productslast year,aluminium-freedeodorants haveshown doubledigit growthespecially amongfemale consumers.Turnover ofantiperspirants,on the other hand, has fallenfor the first timein yearsAnalyst at IRI Germany

“

“



sprays are claimed to protect against odour forup to 24 hours. At around the same time, Balealaunched Golden Magic Deo-Bodyspray.

Golden Magic is scented with a sensual sweetfragrance and is claimed to protect against odourwithout leaving white residue. At around thesame time there was a new limited edition, theBlack Secret Deodorant Body Spray, which isscented with refreshing and aromatic notes ofvanilla and orange.

Three of Balea’s most recent launches were alsoACH-free. Cabana Dream Deo-Bodyspray,another limited edition, came out in January 2015and features juicy notes of maracuja and peach.Kirsche Deospray, which was launched in April,has a cherry-scented fragrance and claims to offer24 hour protection against odour. Just one monthlater, the brand launched Fresh Deo-Bodyspraywhich is scented with an invigorating andrefreshing fragrance and Shining Cocos which, asthe name indicates, leans towards a tropicalfragrance sensation.

The citrus-scented Pink Pomelo Anti-Transpirant Deospray, on the other hand, is anantiperspirant, as is Active Deodorant which hasalso just appeared on DM shelves across Germany.Claimed to protect against wetness and odour forup to 48 hours, Active Deodorant comes with afresh, invigorating fragrance. Stablemate Alverde,DM’s organic C&T brand, launched a newdeodorant roll-on in January 2015. Fresh DeoRoll-On contains algae extract, organic bambooextract and organic aloe vera juice and is said toprotect against odour without leaving whiteresidues on clothing.

Competitor Rossmann’s main C&T brand isIsana. In addition, there is the teenage IsanaYoung range (up until early 2015, the brand was called Synergen) and the fragrance brand Mel Merio.

Mel Merio offers uncomplicated andstraightforward fragrances which are priced ataround t5. Last summer, the brand brought outthree new perfumes each of which wasaccompanied by a deodorant spray. It’s BlossomTime, scented with a floral fragrance combiningjuicy notes of fruit and delicate rose, containsmoisturising panthenol and vitamin E to care forthe skin. It’s Glamour Time is a more sensualfragrance variant, scented with warm notes ofpatchouli and sweet vanilla rounded off by orangeblossom and zesty mandarine. It’s Pool Time is,unsurprisingly, an aquatic fragrance scented withsparkling tropical fruits.

Isana Young brings out new deodorants severaltimes a year. This April, for example, the brandlaunched Vanilla Love Deospray, an alcohol-freelimited edition which, needless to say, is also free from aluminium salts. Other recentdeodorant launches were Fruity Flirt and thefloral-inspired Romantic.

German bath and body care brand CD waslaunched back in 1971. CD started out with atransparent soap – at that time a bit of a novelty inthe German personal care market – and thenmoved into bath and body care. A few years ago,the brand expanded into the facial skin care sector.

From the beginning one of the brand’s claimswas the so-called ‘Reinheitsgebot’ (purityrequirement) – as few synthetic ingredients aspossible and, if available, derived from naturalsources. Today, CD still sticks to theReinheitsgebot which, of course, is much morecomprehensive in 2015 than it was 30 or even 15years ago. CD products are formulated withoutmineral oils, parabens, silicones, colourants andanimal-derived ingredients. And although CD isnot an organic brand, it comes pretty close. Mostconsumers associate the brand with naturalnessand purity. As a result, CD has weathered thealuminium salts storm very successfully.

The brand’s deodorant line-up currentlycomprises four different variants which areavailable as aerosols, pump sprays and roll-ons. InJune 2014 CD Glücksgefühl 24H Deo launched.Available as a roll-on and pump spray, thedeodorant is scented with an uplifting orangeblossom fragrance and is said to prevent odour forup to 24 hours. And CD’s latest release, from May2015, is Große Freiheit Frische Brise (greatfreedom fresh breeze), a marine-inspireddeodorant scented with an aquatic fragrance.

Functionality rulesUnilever’s Dove and Rexona brands are both majorplayers in the German APD market. Dove’s APDportfolio currently comprises 14 APDs, themajority of which are aerosols and roll-ons. Insummer 2014, Dove brought out Cucumber &Green Tea Scent Deodorant Spray in the brand’sGo Fresh bath and body care range. Thedeodorant is free from aluminium salts and comeswith a fresh, invigorating fragrance. This February,Dove launched an entirely different deodorant: thealcohol-free Soft Feel 48h Anti-Transpirant Sprayis scented with a warm powdery fragrance.

Stablemate Rexona relaunched most of itsdeodorant aerosols last year, with new packagingand improved product formulae. Even in thisfunctional APD brand the aluminium-free trendwas visible. In August 2014, a new ACH-freevariant came out: Rexona Shower CleanDeodorant, a body spray scented with a fruityfloral fragrance which is claimed to give a “freshlyshowered” feeling. Just one month later, the brandrelaunched its entire range of antiperspirant roll-ons with new packaging and MotionSensetechnology. This ingredients complex is describedas containing micro capsules which react tomovement rather than wetness, thus offeringantiperspirant protection much sooner than otherantiperspirants.

Since Adidas (Coty) is one of the most famoussport brands ever, it comes as no surprise that thecompany’s APDs also have a strongly functionalpositioning. Adidas’ women’s line-up was extendedwith a new alcohol-free 6-in-1 antiperspirant rangelast summer. Adidas for Women 6in1 features Cool& Care technology which is described as offeringprotection against wetness and odour for up to 48hours while minimising white marks and yellowresidue. The formula includes antibacterialingredients and Active Freshness technology withfreshness capsules and a zesty citrus fragrance.

16 CBM July 2015


Rexona also picked upon the aluminium-freetrend with the launch ofACH-free Shower CleanDeodorant



In March 2015 another functional deodorantfollowed: Adidas Woman Climacool Anti-Perspirant Deodorant Spray containsmovement-activated freshness capsules and isclaimed to offer 48-hour protection against sweatand odour.

Twists and turns2014 was a turbulent year for the APD sector. Thealuminum salts debate has stirred up the industryand will most likely continue to influence themarket for the foreseeable future. However, atsome point the public uproar will calm down, as

ingredients scandals tend to do sooner or later.After all, most manufacturers have nowconfirmed their positioning, highlighting theirACH-free claims through new packaging,additional stickers and marketing campaigns.And aluminium-free launches will probablycontinue to dominate the market over the nextyear or so.

However, despite the very vocal ACH-debatein Germany, many consumers still preferantiperspirants. Antiperspirants are not going todisappear from the market, although it mighttake some time for the category to bounce back.

July 2015 CBM 17


A number of brandshave tapped into thetrend for on-the-gofreshness, includingHenkel’s Neutromed

ItalyDrying up

Italy’s deodorant and antiperspirant markettook another dip in 2014, sliding 1.2% to t405m.The downward trend was evident in all channels.Although sales continue to be dominated by themass market – around 45% of the category’srevenue comes from hypermarkets andsupermarkets – sales in this channel fell by 1.7% tot182.4m. Sales also dropped in pharmacies – by0.2% to t57.2m – and by 9.9% in perfumeries, to t17.9m.

Deodorants make up 31% of the body caremarket in Italy, so any negative movement takessome of the shine off the overall category. But thatdoesn’t mean Italian women and men are lettingthemselves break out in a sweat of neglect.

While the range of new deodorants that werelaunched in the country over the last year may nothave been extensive, the benefits that they offer

reflect a demand for fragrance, effectiveness andcare for sensitive skin.

Taking care of sensitive skin was the focus forPaglieri, which added a deodorant to its FelceAzzurra Dolceprotezione line of skin care products.Specially developed for sensitive skin, FelceAzzurra Dolceprotezione deodorant is said to offer48-hour protection. Its comes in 50ml Deo roll-onand 150ml Deo Spray formats. The fragrance ofthe new deodorant roll-on and deo spray does notcontain allergens and is unique and delicate thanksto the natural essential oils used, the brand says –“just like a caress on the skin”. Its top notes featurealdehydes, citrus and juniper; it then moves into aheart of fougere, red rose, green before finding afoundation in talc, patchouli and clove.

Earlier in 2014, Paglieri also renewed its FelceAzzura Classico, Fresco and Ambrato deodorantlines into three formats – spray, stick and roll-on –and completely reformulated its men’s line.Promising 48-hour protection, the men’s linecomes in four new fragrances: U.Cool Blue,U.Dynamic, U.Rebel and U.Excite. Its renewedpackaging has been designed to be ergonomic,functional and durable.

Bioetyc Uomo (Deborah Group) expanded itsmen’s deodorant line with a touch of comfort formen: Deodorante Benessere – per pelli sensibili.The products in the line boast a new uniqueformula designed for sensitive skin. It is also anti-stain, has a fresh scent and is claimed to last up to48 hours. Other products in the new Benessere lineinclude Eau de Cologne Benessere and DocciaShampoo Benessere (Comfort Shower Gel).

Neutromed (Henkel) expanded its deodorantrange with Dermo Defense 5, a line that is said todeliver five benefits: fighting the bacteriaresponsible for odour; antiperspirant moisturemanagement; gentle protection suitable for all skintypes; anti-irritant protection; and respect for thenatural pH of the skin. The line includes fourdifferent products promising five different benefits.

Dermo Defense 5 Fresh azione non-stop aims toprovide 48-hour non-stop fresh protection with its

-1.2%Decline in value sales ofItaly’s APD market

in 2014 Source: Cosmetica Italia

Italy: Deodorants and antiperspirants, market value, 2014, ym

Pharmacies Perfumeries Other Of which Total %+/-channels mass

Deodorants and antiperspirants 57.2 17.9 329.8 182.4 405 -1.2

Source: Cosmetica Italia



antibacterial complex. Its formula enables it togradually release its fragrance throughout the day.It is available in spray, roll-on and stick formats.Dermo Defense 5 Sensitive ipoallergenico has aparaben-free ultra gentle formula that is said tominimise the risk of allergies and respect thenatural balance of the skin. It is also suitable for useafter shaving and is available in spray, roll-on andstick formats. Dermo Defense 5 Invisible antimacchie is an anti-stain deodorant, speciallydeveloped to prevent the formation of stains andresidue on black, white and coloured clothing. Itcomes in spray and roll-on formats. DermoDefense 5 Dry extra-asciutto (extra-dry) has a high-performance formula that is said to controlperspiration for up to 72 hours. It also controlssweat during sport and other extreme conditions. Itcomes as either a spray or a roll-on.

Supermarket chain Migros also added sensitivityto its I am deodorant line with I am Soft & Silkydeodorant roll-on, promising gentle protection for48 hours. Its formula contains aloe vera, making itparticularly suitable for sensitive skin. It is also saidto provide anti-stain benefits.

Anti-stain technology continued to feature in thedeodorants launched over the past year in Italy.

Lycia (Artsana Group) expanded its Invisible FastDry range with Lycia Gel Invisible Fast Dry (seebox), while Mirato’s Breeze The Bianco sprayfeatures an Invisible White formula that helps toreduce the formation of white spots on fabrics.Suitable for sensitive skin, it is formulated withMoisturising Milk, which has emollient properties,and is alcohol-free. It is also said to effectivelyregulate perspiration for 48 hours.

Keeping it freshFreshness was also high on the agenda of deodorantbrands. One of the most popular deodorant brandsin Italy, Nivea (Beiersdorf) launched two newdeodorants designed to bring both freshness andlong lasting protection into the antiodorant world.Fresh Vitality acts with maximum sensitivity on theskin and has a fresh, revitalising fragrance, whileFresh Flower has a sweet fruity fragrance and is alsodelicate on sensitive skin. Both deodorants promise48-hour non-stop action against bad odours andcontain no aluminium salts. They are available in150ml spray formats.

Neutro Roberts (Bolton Group) went fresh andnatural with its new line of deodorants, Bio freshMonoï & Argan. Its formula aims to combineefficiency, naturalness and pleasure, with organicargan oil and elixir of monoï, which help to keepthe skin soft and moisturised. Freshness comesfrom its delicate scent of fresh, fruity and floralnotes. It also promises 48-hour action. The Biofresh Monoï & Argan lines comes in three formats:spray, vapo no gas and stick.

Mirato’s Breeze Squeeze also uses argan to keepthe underarm area soft and moisturised whileproviding protection against the formation ofunwanted odour. Its scent has warm and welcomingnotes that ensure freshness throughout the day. Itcomes in a squeezable, no gas format and is free ofaluminium salts. Borotalco (Bolton Group) Milk isanother deodorant line promising to leave delicate

skin soft and dry. It is the first Borotalco deodorantwith moisturising milk, using the action of milkproteins to preserve the natural moisture balance ofthe skin. In addition, natural microtalc helps toabsorb sweat. Borotalco Milk’s ‘invisible’ formulaalso promises to reduce yellow stains on light-coloured clothing and white residue on dark fabrics.

Naturals brand Bottega Verde brings delicatefreshness into the armpits with green tea inLineafiori roll-on con estratto di Tè verde – fresco.Its formula is enriched with extracts of green tea andis alcohol free, so it can be used after shaving. Itsscent features citrus, floral woody and amber notes.

Also new from Bottega Verde is Lineafiori roll-oncon latte di Cotone – delicato. Enriched with cottonmilk, the alcohol-free formula promises gentle, longlasting protection and a delicate fragrance withfresh, cosmetic, floral and amber notes.

Another fresh development is Infasil (Angelini)Doccia Fresh features anti-odour technology thataims to absorb odours rather than just cover themup. It contains Molecola 2C, a beta-cyclodextrinwhich absorbs sweat. The brand says it also ‘releasesfresh energy every time you need it’, giving ashower-fresh feeling, for up to 24 hours. It adds thatthe use of beta-cyclodextrin in the formula meansthe amount of aluminium salts and perfume can bereduced, minimising the risk of skin allergy.

On-the-go innovationsFor those who want to keep fresh on the go, Lyciahas brought out Salviettine Antiodoranti Deo&Go,antiodorant wipes in a sachet suitable for use on thearmpits or feet when travelling, in the office, duringleisure time or while shopping. Thanks to Lycia’santiodorant system, they are guaranteed to provide48-hour protection. They also feature the brand’sOriginal fragrance with Deoactive technology,

Around 45% of the category’srevenue comes from hypermarketsand supermarkets,yet sales in thischannel fell by1.7% to o182.4m

“

“

18 CBM July 2015


Brand watch: DoveAntonio Giglio, Brand Manager for Dove (Unilever Italia), the leading deodorantbrand in Italy, talks to Cosmetics Business Markets about deodorant trends inthe country.

What were the principal trends in deodorants in Italy over the past year?We saw an increasing interest in specific products for womenand men.

What are Italian men and women looking for in a deodorantproduct?Both men and women are looking for products than can offerfreshness and aren’t aggressive on skin. Recently we haveseen the rise of stain-resistant market products.

What formats are most popular?Spray is the best solution for women and men, especiallybecause of its practical and hygienic format.

What were Dove’s most popular deodorant products in Italyduring the past year?Original, Invisible and GoFresh.

What are the most popular sales channels for deodorantsin Italy?Large-scale retailers, above all, with their store formats suchas hypermarkets, supermarkets, etc.



Launch highlight: Lycia GelInvisible Fast DryLycia (Artsana Group) expanded its Invisible FastDry range with Lycia Gel Invisible Fast Dry. It isdescribed by the brand as a product that“revolutionises the world ofdeodorants in a tube”. Its‘invisible’ formula helps toreduce the formation of stainson both white and blackclothes. It is also, as the namesuggests, fast drying, and itstransparent gel is said toeliminate unpleasant odoursand sweating and provide asensation of freshness for up to72 hours. The Invisible Fast Dryrange also comes in spray, vapono gas and roll-on formats.

July 2015 CBM 19


which helps to eliminate odour and regulateperspiration. It comes in packages of ten sachets.

For freshness on-the-go in more intimate areas,Neutromed launched Salviettine Intime, intimatewipes in two versions: Delicatezza Suprema(supreme delicacy) and Freschezza (freshness).Delicatezza Suprema has a pH of 4.5 and is said tohave a protective action that is up to two times moredelicate. Freschezza has a pH of 3.5 and offerseffective antibacterial action and long lastingfreshness. Neutromed Salviettine Intime comes inpurse-size packets of 15 biodegradable wipes.

Mirato has developed a range of body mists foron-the-go freshness: Gocce di Malizia. The linecomes in four fragrances: exotic and pamperingArgan; fresh and clear Green Tea; stylish and refinedOrchid; and romantic and delicate Lotus Flowers.They are all available in a 75ml spray format.

Fragrant energyBringing fragrance into the deodorant market,Migros launched I am Deo Black Diamond, aspray deodorant that tells consumers to wrapthemselves in the heady scents of vanilla, muskand precious fruits.

But the most prominent fragranced deodorantswere from men’s perfume brands which continuedto release deodorants as part of their new fragranceranges. Bringing the energy, sun and smells ofSardinia to its deodorant range was Acqua diParma (LVMH).

Ginepro di Sardegna, part of its BluMediterraneo line of fragrances for men, openswith aromatic notes of juniper blended with brightbergamot and spicy pepper, pimento and nutmeg.Juniper is also at its heart, enhanced by resinousnotes of common sage and balsamic accents ofcypress. Resting on the base are the warm andwoody accents of Virgina cedarwood. Theperfumed deodorant is said to have an ultra-softtexture that provides an energising fresh sensationthroughout the day. Also in the line are eau detoilette, Energizing Body Milk and EnergizingShower Gel.

Bvlgari (LVMH) included a deodorant stick inits new Bvlgari Man in Black range. The warm,neo-oriental eau de parfum features top notes ofrum, cardamom and cinnamon; a leathery floralheart of tuberose; and a base of black amber andleather accord.

Carven Pour Homme deodorant (Groupe J.Bogart) aims to provide a sensation of freshness andcomfort throughout the day. It was designed toextend the scent of the eau de toilette. The topnotes are dominated by violet leaf, underscored bygrapefruit. At its heart are warm and spicy notes ofnutmeg, cedar and sage, sitting on a rich base ofvetiver and sandalwood. The Carven Pour Hommeline also includes aftershave balm, aftershave sprayand bath and shower gel.

The fragrance of Toni Gard SeaSide, launchedthis spring, aims to evoke a cool sea breeze in theHamptons that is both raw and wild andunpredictable. Available exclusively in Douglas, theoceanic scent for men has citrusy top notes ofbergamot, mandarin, lemon, grapefruit and redpeppercorn; a heart of lavender, sage, marine accordand tea; and a base of amber, sandalwood and musk.In addition to the roll-on deodorant, the linefeatures an eau de toilette, aftershave lotion andshower gel.

Fresh and fragrant has been a clear trend fordeodorants in Italy over the past year, combininglong lasting protection with caring for the skin. Itseems like a simple solution but as with othercosmetic categories, Italian consumers are lookingfor more than just deodorising or antiperspirantbenefits in their underarm products.

Men’s perfume brands,such as Acqua di Parmaaccounted for the mostprominent fragranceddeodorant launches

The shift towards retailer own brand goodshas stood out as a major trend in the Spanishcosmetics sector, indeed in many consumer goodsmarkets, since the economic crisis of 2008. Anumber of categories, including deodorants, noteda movement towards marcas del distribuidor ormarcas blancas, seemingly as consumers looked forlower priced products. It is, however, a longerstanding pattern. As highlighted by a report fromNielsen published in March, sales of own brandproducts have increased every year for some 20years up to 2014. So the fact that own brand salesfailed to increase market share for the first time intwo decades perhaps raises the question ofwhether these goods have reached a natural

SpainOwn brandfizzles out

4%Growth of men’s

deodorants in Spain in 2014

Source IRI Spain



Spain: Colour Cosmetics, marketvalue and volume, 2013-2014*

Total %+/-

Value (dm) 377.6 -3%

Volume (units m) 46.4 -2%

*52 weeks to 24 August. Source: IRI Spain

Spain: Deodorants, market value andvolume, 2014-2015*

Total %+/-

Value (um) 250.8 0.1

Volume (units m) 83.1 -1.5

*52 weeks to 29 March 2015. Source: IRI Spain

ceiling. Time will tell whether the stagnation inown brand is not merely a reflection of animproving economy. As Nielsen points out, thesmart shopper trend remains and price is still amajor factor in purchasing decisions, as arepromotions. Indeed, strong brand owner activitylast year is one of the main reasons that furtherown brand growth was held back.

It’s a pattern that is to some extent reflected inIRI Spain figures for the deodorant market.Overall sales remained flat (0.1%) at t250.8m inthe 52 weeks to 29 March 2015. That result isdespite a drop in the amount of product purchasedto 83.1m units. In terms of retail outlet, some fourfifths of sales are made in hypermarkets andsupermarkets, where there was a 0.5% increase insales to t203.0m as volumes fell by 2% to 71munits. The specialist perfumeries and moderndrugstores recorded a fall in sales of 1% tot47.8m, although there was a 1% increase involumes. In line with the Nielsen analysis, ownbrand deodorant sales fell by 10% to t44.2m asquantities plummeted 18% to 21.5m units.

A burst of growthIRI divides the deodorant category into three:men, women and mixed, the latter being thesource of the flat growth. Indeed, products aimeddirectly at Spanish men and women reported a 4%increase to t96.6m and 3% to t48.7m,respectively. The mixed segment is the largest andsaw sales fall by 4% to t105.5m as volumesdropped by 8% to just under 44m units.

While brand owners certainly lead the way, it’snot simply a question of large FMCG andcosmetics groups. Among the smaller brands tointroduce new deodorants in the last year,Perspirex (Riemann) released a product that isdesigned to be longer lasting than some existinglines. Perspirex Plus used the CPX skin caresystem to create a roll-on deodorant for peoplewith sensitive skin that is said to protect againstsweating for at least five days. Cosmetics brandNuxe, meanwhile, has added a new deodorant formen made without aluminium salts or alcohol. Asthe name suggests, Nuxe Men 24H providesprotection against sweating all day long thanks tothe deodorant properties of salvia. Furthermore, ithas been formulated to avoid leaving white markson the skin and stains on clothing.

Instituto Español introduced a deodorant in itsPiel Sana (healthy skin) collection that hit shelveslast summer. The natural deo-creamantiperspirant offers 48-hour protection whilemoisturising the sensitive skin. The Andalusia-based firm has also redesigned the pack to make iteasier to apply. A roll-on format has also beenadded in recent months and both are madewithout parabens and allergens.

Continuing the natural ingredient theme,Rituals has included two deodorants in its newmen’s range that was launched earlier this year.Ancient Samurai uses a range of botanic, naturalingredients such as bamboo, organic basil, aloevera and volcanic minerals to create a body carecollection that is said to be inspired by theJapanese warriors’ cleansing routine before

heading into battle. As well as a shave gel, scruband shampoo, it includes Cool Deo Stick andCool Deo Spray. Both antiperspirants use cedarwood and bamboo for the fragrance and offer 24-hour protection.

The big name in deodorants in Spain, as inother countries, is Unilever. In recent months ithas added to its continually expanding Axe (Lynxin the UK) and Rexona (Sure) collections. Axe

Spanish firm Disna (Distribuidora de ProductosNaturales) puts the environment at the heart ofall its activities. It recently revealed that, in 2014,it reduced its carbon impact, or greenhouse gasemissions, by more than 35 tonnes and usesenergy from renewable resources such as sunand biomass. This translates into products that,as the company’s namesuggests rely heavily on naturalingredients. Two recentexamples are in the deodorantcategory that have been addedto the firm’s Corpore Sanocollection. Desodorante deTomillo contains 97% naturalingredients and biologicallycertified extracts to helpcontrol sweating andreduce bad body odour.The key component isthyme (tomillo inSpanish) that has anantimicrobial actionmaking while triethylcitrate and glycerine helpprevent the build ofbacteria that cause badodour. The secondproduct is Desodorantede Tilo with biologicallycertified lime extract thatworks on the sweatglands. Both productscontain salvia to offer apleasant aroma.

Disna Corpore Sano Desodorantede Tomillo

Spain: Deodorants market value bysegment 2015*

Value Volume(wm) (1000 units)

Men 96.6 24.2

Women 48.7 15.1

Mixed 105.5 43.7

*52 weeks to 29 March 2015. Source: IRI Spain

20 CBM July 2015




Spain: Colour Cosmetics, marketvalue and volume, 2013-2014*

Total %+/-

Value (dm) 377.6 -3%

Volume (units m) 46.4 -2%

*52 weeks to 24 August. Source: IRI Spain

Black is billed as the brand’s most “subtle andrefined” fragrance for men and has been packagedin a “minimalist, masculine” format. Developed byAnn Gottlieb, the fragrance expert behind theiconic CK One perfume, Axe Black opens withfresh notes of watermelon, bergamot and frozenpear. This is followed by a blend of cedar woodand patchouli to create a masculine scent that isnot overbearing. As well as the deodorant andantiperspirant, there is also a shower gel and eaude toilette. To launch the new line, the firm optedfor a video in collaboration with artist Novo Amorthat features a version of Guns ‘n’ Roses’ Welcometo the Jungle hit.

Rexona, meanwhile, introduced Invisible Black& White for men in both spray and roll-onformat. The antiperspirant uses Unilever’sMotionSense technology that releases fragrance asthe person moves and has been designed to reducethe appearance of white marks on black clothes, oryellow stains on white garments that can resultfrom deodorant use.

Another major international brand launch camefrom Garnier (L’Oréal). Mineral UltraDry is thefirm’s first 48-hour antiperspirant that has beenenriched with Mineralite. This is a highlyabsorbent ingredient of volcanic origin that is saidto help protect against sweating in extremeconditions. The deodorant works as a protectivelayer to control perspiration and bad body odour.

L’Oréal stablemate brand Biotherm, meanwhile,

Strong brandowner activitylast year is one of the mainreasons that ownbrand growthwas held back

“

“

has introduced Deo Pure Antiperspirant Creamthat contains a tri-active mineral complex. DeoPure is claimed to be more than just a deodorantas it contains soothing properties that are rapidlyabsorbed to minimise the risk of allergy orirritation of the skin. The non-greasy, non-stickformula avoids stains, while the specially createdpack makes it easy to apply the right amount.

Another French brand, Yves Rocher, haslaunched an antiperspirant deodorant based on thearoma of Mexican lime. The alcohol-free productoffers a fresh scent as well as protection againstperspiration for 24 hours. However not allconsumers like their deodorant fragrance tocompete with their eau de cologne, and inrecognition of this, Sanex (Colgate Palmolive)released Dermo No Perfume, a product that hasno aroma but that is said to be just as efficient asthe perfumed variety when it comes to protectingagainst sweating and body odour. Thehypoallergenic formula means it is also suited tosensitive skin types.

It has clearly been another solid year ofpromotional activity from brand ownersoperating in the deodorant space. If, as Nielsensuggests, this has been the key factor inpreventing further market growth for own brandproducts in Spain, it will be interesting to witnesswhether the continued activity over the comingmonths further limits the own brand presence inthe deodorant category.

July 2015 CBM 21


UKStarting to sweat

The UK may be one of the largest and mostinnovative deodorant and antiperspirant marketsin the world, but unlike its French neighbours it isalso mature, making any spurts of growth in eithervalue or volume unlikely. Another factor at play inthis category is shopping behaviour, withconsumers using offers to stock up on theirfavourite deodorants. So how has the past yearbeen for the brands? Donna Rankin, Senior BrandManager for Soft & Gentle (Godrej) tellsCosmetics Business Markets: “It’s been a toughone, to be honest. The number and depth ofpromotions in the last year has increasedsignificantly, making it difficult for all brands to compete.”

Figures from Kantar Worldpanel reflect thedifficulties the market has faced over the past year.Value sales of deodorants and body sprays didmanage to remain stable, up 1.3% to £582.879 for

the year to 29 March 2015, but the marketrecorded a volume decline of 1.1% to367.449m packs.

While it remains difficult to build value in thiscategory, deodorants enjoy continued popularitywith UK consumers. And data from Euromonitor

1.3%Value growth of the UKdeodorant market, yearto 29 March 2015

Source: KantarWorldpanel

UK: Deodorant and body spraymarket, 2014-2015

52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-30 Mar 14 29 Mar 15

Value (£m) 575.546 582.879 1.3

Volume (packs m) 371.592 367.449 -1.1

Source: Kantar Worldpanel

UK: Deodorant and body spray valueshare, by sector %

Sectors 52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-30 Mar 14 29 Mar 15

Deodorants 90.2 90.7 -5.2

Body sprays 9.8 9.3 -3.0


UK: Deodorant market, value share,own label versus brands

Sectors 52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-30 Mar 14 29 Mar 15

Branded 95.8 95.9 1.3

Own label 4.2 4.1 0.0




reveals the extent to which sprays rule the roostover roll-ons as Britain’s favourite deodorantformat. Sales of deodorant sprays were valued atan impressive £503m by the market researchcompany, while roll-ons totalled £119m in 2014.According to Unilever, 80% of the UK populationfavour aerosols above sticks and roll-ons; in fact,the company sells 187 million deodorant aerosolsevery year in the UK alone. The company alsonotes that the total antiperspirant aerosol (APA)market is now worth £151m in the UK.

Unilever has long dominated the UK market asthe leading deodorant manufacturer and in 2014 ithad a value share of more than 61% and sales of£399m across its brand portfolio, which includesLynx, Sure, Dove, Vaseline Intensive Care andImpulse. The introduction of the company’s eco-friendly compressed deodorant format hasattracted consumers due to both the sustainabilityof the packaging and the convenience of thesmaller can size. Introduced by Unilever in 2013in the UK to its women’s Lynx, Sure, Dove andVaseline Intensive Care brands, and across its maleportfolio last year, more than 40% of UnileverUK & Ireland’s entire aerosol deodorant portfoliowas compressed by the end of 2014. However,Euromonitor notes, “the launch of this newpackaging format was expensive and Unilever willhave to wait and see if it pays off, with itsdeodorant value sales increasing by 1% in 2014.”

However, this year Unilever announced theparticular success of Dove in the women’s APAcategory, stating year-on-year growth in marketshare from 0.4% to 22.9% (source: Nielsen, weekending 3 January 2015), while Sure Womenremains the UK’s number one female deodorantbrand in the UK (source: Nielsen week ending 8November 2014). Sales of Unilever’s Impulsebody sprays also continued to rise in 2014.

The new compressed format has sparked amove among its competitors to follow suit – yet

this is something that Unilever, in a statement inMay 2015, appears to be welcoming, “in a bid tohelp the whole deodorant industry cut its aerosolcarbon footprint by 25%”. Alan Palmer, UnileverVice President of Research and Development forDeodorants comments: “There are three billionaerosol deodorants sold every year worldwide. If

The deodorantmarket is actuallyin decline at themoment. However,key brands thatare in growth areNivea, RightGuard and highefficacy brandMitchumProduct DevelopmentManager and BuyingManager at Tesco

“

“

22 CBM July 2015


Retail watch: TescoWith 3500 stores and over 310,000 employees,Tesco is the UK’s largest grocer, controlling 28.7%of the market. Tesco recently announced that it isthe first retailer to offer a compressed range ofdeodorant products for men and women. The ProFormula compressed range is available in 125mlsizes, which offer the same number of uses as aregular 250ml can. Tesco’s Product DevelopmentManager and Buying Manager speaks toCosmetics Business Markets about the launch,and its bestselling branded deodorants

Why did Tesco decide to go compressed for itsnew Pro Formula Crystal range?The market is moving towards compressed andcustomers are more aware than ever thatcompressed cans are more sustainable and useless packaging materials for the environment’sbenefit, while still performing the same as non-compressed versions. Being the largest retailer inthe UK, we felt we also have a responsibility todrive it with the leading brands.

Other than own brand, whichbranded deodorants areselling well at the moment?The deodorant market is actually indecline at the moment. However, key brands thatare in growth are Nivea, Right Guard and highefficacy brand Mitchum. Unlike European andAmerican markets, there is a greater growth in the anti-perspirant spray market than in roll-ons and creams.

What do you think customers are looking for fromthe latest anti-perspirant deodorants?Confidence that the product will fulfil the lastingantiperspirant function but be kind to skin andpleasant to smell. Value for money is holding greatimportance to customers in the current climate asdisposable income is being squeezed and thegrowth of the discount stores offer customersgreater value for money. Tesco and Pro Formularanges tick those quality boxes and it is also aneasier price point for the customer to pick up.

Launch highlight: Soft & GentleVisibly SmoothAny product which can genuinely fulfil two ormore needs in one is big news in today’s multi-benefit-led C&T market, and Soft & Gentleexpects its new Visibly Smooth variant in the SkinScience line to become “the most successfulproduct in the range”. The deodorant is claimedto offer hair minimising protection to leaveunderarms staying smoother for longer andresulting in visibly thinner underarm hair as wellas a reduced ‘shadow’appearance where regrowthappears. Donna Rankin, SeniorBrand Manager for Soft &Gentle, says: “The growingpopularity of hair minimisingproducts, combined with acontinuing demand for multi-tasking products, creates anopportunity for products such asVisibly Smooth to become a bigtrend. Using patented Kelisofttechnology, the antiperspirantformula inhibits the VEGFprotein which stimulates hairgrowth – resulting insignificantly less hair growth injust eight weeks. This newtechnology not only providescustomers with an enhancedexperience, but streamlines theirbeauty regime.”



July 2015 CBM 23


they were all compressed, we could save 21,000tonnes of aluminium – enough to build 10million bicycles! For that to happen, our entireindustry needs to move shoppers away fromtraditional aerosols and help them choose a moresustainable option. Unilever cannot do that alone– which is why we’re sharing our technology withthe industry.”

One of the first brands to go on to utilise a newrange in compressed cans was Soft & Gentle(Godrej) with its new Skin Science range(discussed in detail later), offering 75ml productsthat last as long as 150ml versions. Also quick onthe uptake was Tesco, which this year became thefirst retailer to offer a collection of compresseddeodorants in its own label line. Other thanfeaturing the compressed technology, the designand packaging of the deodorants has also beenredeveloped to become a standalone range withinthe Pro Formula brand, to emphasise theuniqueness of the compressed range. There aretwo deodorants for women: Pro Formula CrystalAqua Cotton, a fragrance driven APD thatfeatures 48-hour protection against odour,wetness and helps protect against white marks;and Pro Formula Crystal Floral Soft, whichprovides even longer 72-hour protection. Themen’s variants include Pro Formula for MenClear Ice, a fragrance-driven product, and ProFormula for Men Stress Protect, which offers 72-hours’ protection and is designed for men whosweat more when they are stressed.

Fresher for longerInnovations that offer longer lasting or moreefficient protection against sweat, wetness andodour are a key proposition in the deodorant andantiperspirant market. Claudio Bellen, BrandManager for Sure at Unilever UK, says: “Thehigh efficacy segment of the deodorants categoryis growing year-on-year and represents the singlebiggest sales opportunity for value growth indeodorants (source: Nielsen, value sales weekending 16 October 2014). This is due toconsumers being willing to trade up to a productthat will meet their needs.” Commenting on therecently relaunched Sure Maximum Protectionrange for women, and the introduction of twonew variants, Maximum Protection StressControl and Maximum Protection SportStrength, Bellen says that the range “taps intothis sales potential as it offers double theprotection of the leading antiperspirant in aunique cream format.”

The new variants contain the brand’s TRIsolidbody responsive technology that is said to keepthe user fresher for longer, and the revisedpackaging for the collection also contains specificlabels to highlight the usage occasion to help theshopper to select an appropriate product.Unilever says that Sure Women continues togrow its “substantial market share of the highefficacy segment”, which highlights the strengthof Sure Maximum Protection within this space.

Adidas (Coty) is also a well positioned brand tobring greater performance to antiperspirants. Forits latest range for men and women the brand has

High efficacy APDs aredriving value growth inthe deodorant market,as consumers arewilling to trade up toproducts that meet their needs

Sector watch: Aerosol fillingindustry reports 7% growth in deodorants Deodorants, antiperspirants and body sprays isthe largest and one of the strongest categoriesfor the aerosol sector, with UK producers filling754.8 million cans last year, an increase of 7%according to the British Aerosol Manufacturers’Association (BAMA). Around 60% ofdeodorants filled in the UK are exported. Otherpersonal care categories also experiencedgrowth, in particular suntan and bronzingproducts with a year-on-year increase of 16% to2.5 million, while hairspray also remainsbuoyant, up 10% to 97.8 million cans filled.There was, however, a notable decline for twopersonal care categories: colognes andperfumes in aerosol format, which decreasedby 16%, and shaving products, which fell by5%. This decline possibly reflects the difficultiesthat this category has experienced within malegrooming, generally sparked by the trend forfacial hair. Cosmetics Business Marketsspeaks to Dr John Morris, CE of BAMA, aboutinnovation in the aerosol segment for APDproducts and why exports are so important forthe business

How innovative do you think the aerosolsegment for APD products is in the UK?Innovation in product formulation, pack graphicsand shape continue, combined with the uniqueproperties of the aerosol delivery system. Thiscombination keeps consumers engaged with theproduct format and gives shelf presence. One ofthe most important innovations over the last fewyears has been the smaller ‘compressed’ formatwhich uses less propellant and packagingmaterials, making the products more sustainablewhile still giving excellent performance. Inaddition, formulation innovation has led to 72-hour protection products.

What are the biggest challenges that UK APDaerosol manufacturers are facing at themoment?A key challenge is ensuring that sustainability isshown to be built into the product asconsumers become more aware of the issueseffecting lifestyle choices. Most aerosolscurrently are in metal, which is infinitelyrecyclable, and more than 90% of localauthorities in the UK are accepting emptyaerosols as a result of a campaign led by BAMAand others to improve kerbside recycling ofempty aerosols along with other householdrecycling. Many consumers like the fact thatthey can recycle the packaging.

How do you expect the market to continue todevelop over the coming year?We expect UK aerosol fillings to continue togrow against a backdrop of a mature domesticmarket, underlining the importance of exporting.There is no reason to suppose that the growth infillings in this aerosol category will falter. Peoplelike to use aerosols for deodorant protection, soas long as the product format continues toprovide consumer satisfaction there are stillmany markets with growth potential.



utilised its ClimaCool technology, which it uses insports apparel and shoes to help ventilate andkeep the wearer cool and dry. The ClimaCooltechnology contains fresh capsules which areactivated by movement, bursting throughout theday for an instant, refreshing citrus fragrance.Adidas also took a new step with its packaging,moving away from black and using a silver colourcode for its male variant and white for the femaleantiperspirant, with bright blue wave graphicsacross both packs to represent the capsuletechnology in action all day.

A major development on the UK market thisyear has been the new Skin Science range fromSoft & Gentle, a collection of three deodorantsthat demonstrates how today’s consumers arelooking for added benefits from theirantiperspirant deodorants. Within this line is highefficacy deodorant Ultra Protect, which offers 72-hour protection and a light fresh fragrance as wellas a ‘unique skin synergy complex’ that is said tohelp prevent irritation and promisereliable sweat protection. Soft & Gentleexpects the Ultra Protect product to beone of the key performers of the newline, says Rankin: “We expect to see theUltra Protect variant perform well,given the need for products that deliverlong lasting results. The advanced 72-hour protection is perfect for people onthe go, looking for that extra level ofprotection. With no need to reapply itgives them the confidence to go all day.

Naturally moreThe Skin Science range is focused onoffering added benefits as well asoffering choice to fit with differentlifestyles, and the two further productsare Really Pure, which offers naturalprotection, and Visibly Smooth whichoffers hair minimising protection (seeLaunch highlight). The Really Purevariant offers the what consumerswould expect from a natural alternative,being free from alcohol, aluminiumchlorohydrate and allergens, and being

formulated instead with a natural mineral. Itcontains potassium alum to adjust pH and preventodour-causing bacteria from growing. However, aswith other products in the Skin Science range, itoffers further benefits such as 48-hour protection,and it also includes oat oil, which “soothes andnourishes sensitive underarm skin that cansometimes be prone to irritation,” explainsRankin, who can see the multibenefit trendgrowing in deodorants. “We believe we will see arise in formulations bringing in extra benefits togive the customer added value and practicality,”she says. “This year we expect that there will be anincrease in APDs and deodorants that care forunderarm skin as well as protecting against odour– seeing more ingredients that have traditionallybefore only been used in skin care.”

Dove’s latest antiperspirant moves into thisarena. Following the likes of Beiersdorf’s Nivea,which launched Powder Touch last year, DoveSoft Feel marks the brand’s first move into the

powder deodorant market. It includesthe brand’s ¼ moisturising cream andleaves skin feeling dry and soft onapplication. Tom Stone, BrandManager for Dove Deodorants atUnilever UK, says: “Consumers areincreasingly looking for productswhich care for their underarm skin.Dove Soft Feel taps into the growingtrend for powder products and allowsconsumers to experience a new kind ofunderarm softness with a crackingfragrance. We’re confident the launchwill drive category growth byencouraging consumers to trade up tothis premium product.”

Scent continues to be an importantpurchase driver, and recognising this,natural brand Salt of the Earth(Crystal Spring) introduced its firstfragranced product last August. PureAura spray is made from 100% naturalingredients, infused with a lavenderand vanilla scent and features acombination of over 15 naturalbotanical extracts and oils. Free from

24 CBM July 2015


Retail watch: AsdaAsda has over 525 stores across the UK with over175,000 employees, and has been part of the Wal-Mart group since 1999. It is the UK’ssecond-largest grocer with 17% market share.Earlier this year the retailer announced plans toinvest £600m in opening 17 new supermarkets andrevamping 62 stores in 2015. Cosmetics BusinessMarkets speaks to Asda’s Category PlanningManager for Beauty & Toiletries, Gemma Crowe,about its most successful brands in the deodorantand body spray category

Which deodorant/body spray brands have beenbestsellers at Asda over the past year?Lynx has been a consistent bestseller across themen’s category and gifting – we’re always amazed

at the volume Lynx Africa continues to sell.

What do you offer in terms of own label orexclusive brands of deodorants or body sprays?We have our own label essentials and the mid-tierrange. We don’t have any exclusive brands but dohave exclusive skus within some of the brands wehave on offer to shoppers, for example Palmolive,Garnier and L’Oréal.

What promotions work well in the bodyspray/deodorant category at Asda?Our shoppers are always passionate about greatvalue and this year we have seen some great resultsthrough linksave mechanics on deodorants and body sprays.

Gemma Crowe,Category PlanningManager, Beauty &Toiletries at Asda

Scent remains animportant purchasedriver in this market.Natural brand Salt of theEarth recognised this bylaunching its firstfragranced dedodorant



July 2015 CBM 25


aluminium chlorohydrate, triclosan and parabens,it also includes aloe vera for its skin-soothingbenefits and antibacterial honeysuckle, and beingmade from natural ingredients it leaves no whitemarks on clothes.

The Body Shop (L’Oréal) frequently launchesfragranced limited edition body care rangesfeaturing perfumed sprays, and this summer itintroduced a Virgin Mojito collection featuringan innovative fragrance format, Body Splash.The product is designed to be splashed onto thebody after showering for a long lasting feelingof refreshment.

Meanwhile, in the men’s category this yearLynx introduced Black, a range that offers achange of direction for the brand toward a moresubtle and refined fragrance, as according toMark Aschmann, Brand Manager for Lynx atUnilever UK, the brand “identified that in 2015consumers will be looking for more premium andrefined fragrances.” Available as a body spray,APA and with a wider toiletry range, Lynx Blackis designed to appeal to more understated tasteswith a scent that opens with notes of watermelonester, bergamot and frozen pear, combined withfresh fruits and a moss, cedar wood andpatchouli blend.

The spray aheadAs manufacturers continue to raise the bar in thenumber and level of their innovations,competition between brands has grown stiffer.The past year has even seen Unilever UK havingan advertisement banned by the AdvertisingStandards Authority for implying that SureInvisible Black+White antiperspirant was asuperior product to Nivea’s Invisible Black andWhite for protection against yellow stains, butthat this implied claim was not substantiated.

The deodorant category in the UK ischallenging for all players, yet there is alsooptimism among them. Rankin says: “We believeinnovation and product differentiation willenable us (Soft & Gentle) to build loyalty andcontinue to grow our brand.”

Euromonitor notes that because the categoryis mature, pricing must be competitive andpackaging should provide consumers withconvenience.

Wipes present a convenient packagingsolution, and Halo Wipes, which offers arange of skin care and hygiene wipesincluding deodorant wipes last yearrepackaged the whole line to give ita contemporary look and identityto resonate with existingcustomers while attracting freshinterest. Ian Anderson,Marketing Director of HaloWipes, says “The stylish newlook is cleaner with bolderprints and sharper lines whichgives the packaging a brighter,more vibrant appearance –making our full Halo rangemore visually appealing for ourtarget audience.”

Going forward, the compressedpackaging format will continue to “become

the norm for major companies indeodorants,” believes Euromonitor,

and Rankin agrees: “We believe wewill continue to see innovationcoming through and continuedfocus on compressed.Consumers are slowlybeginning to accept thecompressed format. Anincreased importance onsustainable and responsiblemanufacturing, coupled withthe convenience and portabilityof the smaller size, willcontinue to drive demand forthis format.”

UK: Deodorants,top fiveretailers*

Tesco

Boots

Asda

Sainsbury’s

Morrisons

*based on spend shareSource: KantarWorldpanel

PR watch: L’Oréal Paris MenExpert secures most presscoveragePhoebe Rilot, Client Coordinator atMymarketmonitor.com, tells Cosmetics BusinessMarkets which deodorant products secured themost PR coverage in 2015

Deodorant may not be the most glamorousproduct that the health and beauty industry has tooffer, but it serves an important purpose in ourbathroom cabinets. Along with body sprays – thesofter alternative to full-on edts and parfums –they feature regularly in magazines, particularly inadvice columns. L’Oréal leads again here, as isusual, with Men Expert 48H Dry Ice Anti-Perspirant, followed by two heritage brands:Roger & Gallet and Crabtree & Evelyn. Thecalming and relaxing This WorksDeep Sleep Body TherapySpray closely follows LaSource, with another anti-perspirant (Sure’s MaximumProtection for Women)closing out the top five.

‘

The Body Shoplaunched an innovativeBody Splash format inits limited edition VirginMojito range

UK: Top deodorant launches in the press

Product Value £ 2014

Total 145,531

1 L’Oréal Paris Men Expert 48H Dry 7,124Ice Anti-Perspirant

2 Roger & Gallet Eau des Bienfaits 6,734Fragrant Body Mist

3 Crabtree & Evelyn La Source 5,651Refreshing Body Mist

4 This Works Deep Sleep Body 5,459 Therapy Spray

5 Sure Women Maximum Protection 4,556 Anti-Perspirant

For more details contact Phoebe Rilotemail [email protected] +44 20 8831 7570 www.mymarketmonitor.com



Russia: Top five deodorantcompanies, 2014

Company % share

Unilever Group 22.90

Beiersdorf AG 15.50

Colgate-Palmolive Co 9.60

Procter & Gamble Co 9.30

L’Oréal Group 8.80

Source: Euromonitor International

Russia: Top five deodorant brands,2014

Brand Company % share

Rexona Unilever Group 18.50

Nivea Beiersdorf AG 15.50

Mennen Colgate-Palmolive Co 9.60

Fa Henkel AG 8.00

Garnier L’Oréal Groupe 7.50


Deodorants was one of the best performingC&T categories in Russia last year, recordingvalue growth of 6.9% in 2014 according toEuromonitor. This level of growth makes it oneof the higher growth countries covered in thisissue’s market report, but in fact the figure waslower than the 9% CAGR for the five yearreview period. Nevertheless, it was animprovement on the 2013 results, when Russia'sdeodorant market grew by 6.2%.

If growth is starting to wane, it is due to thegradual saturation of the deodorant category.According to Euromonitor, there is still acontinuous inflow of new consumers, but thisslowed down towards the end of the reviewperiod. Other factors include price increases beingkept moderate due to the expansion of modernretailing and very high competition among brandswithin the category. As such, this means that thereis a growing number of promotional activities andprice offers.

Despite these factors, category growth remainshighly positive and this is due to the increasedlevel of importance and understanding abouthygiene among Russian people.

Unlike other categories, the performance ofdeodorants is unique due to consumers’ loyalty toformats rather than brands, notes Euromonitor.Consumers tend to buy deodorants on specialoffer and remain loyal only to the format of theproducts, such as roll-ons or sprays. Consumersconsidered roll-ons to be the most effective, andthe most important product driver was protection.so manufacturers focused most of the developmentwithin this category. Deodorant sticks recorded aless dynamic performance, as these products,despite their efficiency, often leave white marks on clothes.

Unilever dominatesWhatever the country, the leading deodorantcompanies remain pretty much identical, andRussia is no different. In 2014, Unilever continuedits leading position with a 22% value share, due toits wide portfolio of brands, Rexona, Dove andAxe, for which it has built a strong presence in thecountry. The next four largest companies are allamong the largest international players in C&Ttoo, with Beiersdorf taking a 15.5% share, ColgatePalmolive in third place with 9.6%, P&G hot onits heels with 9.3% and L’Oréal Groupeaccounting for 8.8% of the market.

26 CBM July 2015


6.9%Growth of Russia'sdeodorant market

in 2014Source: Euromonitor

International

Yet while it was traditionally believed thatRussian producers would not be able to competewith western European brands in the productionof deodorants, today the situation has changeddramatically. Due to the growing demand forthese products, the development of technologyand production capacity, domestic manufacturershave come to the market, and nowadays manyRussian brands – big as well as niche – havedeodorants in their product assortments.

Local leadersOne of the largest manufacturers of aerosolproducts, Arnest introduced to the market a newgeneration of high performance antiperspirantscalled Deonica. The collection includes four lines:Deonica for men, Deonica Nature Protectionwith alunite mineral, Deonica Pro-Zaschita with72-hour efficacy, Deonica Invisible and Deonicahypoallergenic for sensitive skin. All of theproducts in the range leave clothes mark-free andcome in two formats: spray and roll-on.

Viking Deodorants, a range from anotherleading Russian producer, KrasnayaLiniya, is designed especially for men.The products work to preventunpleasant odour and impart a feeling of freshness throughout the day.Deodorant Viking Blue Ice provides

Russia Feelingfresh

Dr. Foot redesigned itsrange of foot careproducts, including aRefreshing SprayDeodorant for feet



July 2015 CBM 27


control over perspiration and protects againstodour with a bright, strong and energeticfragrance that is said to give vigour and vitality.There are two further products in the line, VikingFresh Deodorant for maximum protectionagainst odour and Viking Sensitive, designed forsensitive skin.

Moscow-based SM Michel Laboratory recentlyredesigned its foot care range, Dr. Foot. Allproducts contain active ingredients that havefunctional curative and preventive properties,which brings them closer to pharmaceuticals.The line consists of five highly effective means toaddress cosmetic skin problems for feet, includingRefreshing Spray Deodorant for feet and IntenseLiquid Talc to protect feet from sweat and odour.

Keeping it naturalNatural deodorants continued to show growthlast year due to health concerns, with someconsumers caring about the use of certainingredients such as aluminium in deodorants.However, the share of such naturally-positionedproducts remained very small in 2014 as theseproducts tend to have low awareness amongmany consumers, and considered by some to beless effective than regular deodorants. As such, itremains a very niche area within deodorants.

However, year-on-year natural deodorantlaunches have increased, and local manufacturerDon, which produces cosmetics based on

Siberian plant extacts and active ingredients,introduced Deodorant Etna. The

deodorant claims to offer acompletely new approach and auniversal solution for keepingthe body feeling fresh as well aslong term protection fromsweat. It is based on 100%natural ingredients and features

the mineral potassium alum to

provide maximum protection from theunpleasant smell of sweat.

In addition, the formulae consists of variousextracts that enhance the action of the mineral,such as oak bark extract, which has tanningproperties due to the high concentration oftannin; chamomile extract which offers an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect; and CO2

extract of Siberian fir with its bacterial action andvitamin-rich composition. The product, which issaid to relieve skin irritation and has a wound-healing effect, is fragrance-free and free frompreservatives, solvents and alcohol. It leaves nowhite marks on clothing, and is said to be safeand suitable for sensitive and irritated skin.

Meanwhile, Persei Company has developednatural mineral deodorant stick Laqualefeaturing a pine extract in a solid single crystal within a special plastic container. It has a translucent crystalline structure with alight natural shade. The inclusion of pine issaid to reinforce the protective effect of thedeodorant and offer anti-inflammatoryproperties, while also offering a subtle naturalfragrance of pine needles.

Protect and softenDomestic manufacturer Krasnopolyanskoe Mylo,located in Medoveevka, ten kilometres away fromKrasnaya Polyana, Sochi, specialises in creatingsoaps using the town’s ancient methods ofcombining a mix of vegetable fats and a watersolution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) tocreate a chemical reaction. Various additives,such as oils, milk and honey, are then added tothe soap before it hardens. In addition to thesoaps, which are supplied to spa salons, elitebath-houses, stores and outlets selling naturalcosmetics, the brand also has a deodorantproduct which contains only natural ingredients.It utilises baking soda for a deodorising effect,cornstarch to gently absorb excess moisture,while protecting and drying the skin. Shea butteris included for its nourishing and anti-inflammatory action, as well as cocoa butter tosupport skin hydro-lipid balance. Beeswax is alsoincorporated to help heal delicate underarm skinby creating a weightless protective film thatprotects the skin without clogging the pores.Finally, allantoin is included for its strongdisinfectant properties. The deodorant as a resultis said to soften and protect the skin, leaving itwith a light floral scent.

The deodorant category is forecast to continueto develop positively in Russia over the comingyears, with Euromonitor attributing futuregrowth to an increasing hygiene culture in thecountry and growing health concerns amongconsumers. And while traditional formats willcontinue to win over consumers, it is likely thatas manufacturers continue to roll out some of themore unusual products highlighted in this report,consumers will be increasingly open to tryingnew types of deodorants.

Based on a report courtesy of InterCHARM (ReedExhibitions Russia)

If growth isstarting to wane,it is due to thegradual saturationof the deodorantcategory

“ “

Russia: Deodorant market value, 2014

2013 %+/- 2014 %+/-

Value (RUB bn) 20.20 6.2 21.60 6.9


Arnest, one of thelargest domesticplayers, launchedDeonica, a new range ofhigh performance APDs



High protectionformulations andadditional benefits areboosting sales in Braziland Argentina

28 CBM July 2015

MARKET REPORT ROUND UP

BRAZILWith estimated sales of R$6.29bn in 2014 (US$2bn)Brazil has the largest market for deodorants in theworld. It is a personal care staple used by virtuallythe entire population, often more than once a day. Ithas also been one of the fastest growing markets,particularly during 2012 and 2013 when annualgrowth reached 23% and 22% respectively.“The expansion of the middle class, the growth of

segments with value-added formats, such as aerosols(31% in 2013 and 39% in 2012) and the growinginterest of consumers in innovations, such as non-staining formulations and technology that provideshigher protection against perspiration are factorsthat have influenced this growth,” explains RenataMoura, Research Manager at Mintel in Brazil. “Thegrowing interest in value-added formats andformulations translate into higher spending in thecategory, which is fuelling the market growth.”Aerosols represent the largest proportion of

category sales value, taking 51% of the total market,and also experienced the highest level of growth,rising by a staggering 31% in 2013 as the level ofpenetration of this format has increased. Accordingto Mintel, 41% of the population in Brazil usedaerosol deodorants in June 2012, yet by January2014 this figure had risen to 47%.Roll-ons, however, have greater penetration in

Brazil, with 53% of consumers using this format.However, this segment is not as valuable in terms ofsales, representing a quarter of the market in 2013.Mintel notes that creams and gels have shownsignificant growth (24% in 2013) even though the

segment is still very small. Moura explains:“Products like Rexona Clinical have contributed tothe sales growth of this segment.”Unilever Brasil leads the market as the largest

deodorant manufacturer with a share of 38.5% in2013, thanks to the might of its flagship brandsRexona, Axe and Dove, marketing investments andnew product innovations. Natura follows with9.7%, having lost market share over the previousthree years, but the launch of its Ecocompactocheck line of spray deodorants last September isexpected to bolster its market position. The lineoffers a compressed format aerosol, containing thesame number of uses as a 150ml spray but in 75mlpackaging, reducing environmental impact by 48%. Compressed aerosols appeal due to their

environmentally friendly positioning and becauseon-the-go formats may be popular in this market,due to the high frequency of deodorant use.Furthermore, notes Moura, “non-staining, longlasting and high levels of protection against wetnessare the leading innovations consumers are interestedin trying. About one third of Brazilians are alsowilling to pay more for these innovations, indicatinga potential for premium products.” Other opportunities for further growth in Brazil’s

market include “targeting the emotional cause ofsweat or adding micro-encapsulated ingredients fora long lasting protection,” says Moura, as well asdeveloping penetration, claims and formats inspecific demographic groups. For example, aimingdeodorant products with moisturising benefits atmiddle-aged women, who value these features.By 2019, Brazil’s deodorant market could be

worth as much as R$14bn if average annual growthof 18% is achieved. However, with the current stateof the economy and a deceleration in growthgenerally in Brazil’s C&T market, it looks unlikelythat it will reach the dizzying double digit growth of2012 and 2013 in the years to come. Nevertheless,

Global round up

Brazil is the world’s largest deodorant market,with products enjoying near universal usage.However, Argentina is hot on its heels asanother rapidly emerging market. This issuealso looks at Iran’s deodorant category, which,still at a nascent stage, presents a strongopportunity for growth

Brazil: Deodorant market value, 2012-2019

Year R$m %+/-

2012 4,373 23.2

2013 5,330 21.9

2014 (est.) 6,294 18.1

2015 (fore.) 7,528 19.6

2016 (fore.) 8,973 19.2

2017 (fore.) 10,594 18.1

2018 (fore.) 12,374 16.8

2019 (fore.) 14,251 15.2

Source: Mintel

Brazil: Deodorant value sales by format, 2012-2013

Year Aerosols Creams/gels Pumps Roll-ons Sticks

R$m %+/- R$m %+/- R$m %+/- R$m %+/- R$m %+/-

2012 2,091 39.3 221 21.0 844 7.3 1,206 12.8 11 29.0

2013 2,739 31.0 274 24.0 979 16.0 1,327 10.0 11 3.8

Source: Mintel

18.1%Estimated value growthof Brazil’s deodorant

market in 2014Source: Mintel

BRAZIL

027_CBM 0715_global Roundup_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 11:57 Page 28


Unilever’s Axe brandtakes a 15% share ofIran’s deodorant market

July 2015 CBM 29

ROUND UP MARKET REPORT

deodorants enjoy near universal usage in Brazil,thanks to the country’s high temperatures. And withthe growth of high performance, value-addedformulations on the market, Brazil’s deodorantcategory is likely to stay fresher for longer thanother C&T segments.Data and analyst comments courtesy of Mintelwww.mintel.com

ARGENTINABrazil is not the only Latin American country with ahigh value and high growth deodorant market.Argentina is hot on its heels with total value sales ofUS$1.9bn in 2014, and registering staggeringmarket growth in both 2013 and 2014, of 32% and39% respectively. Volume growth, however, hasremained much more sober, in the region of 2% or3%. The strong difference between value andvolume growth is due to high inflation in Argentina.Despite this, the market continues to register

strong development, boosted by new products inthat offer additional benefits, such as protectionagainst stains on clothes,the release of fragranceduring physical activity and even water resistance.For example, Unilever de Argentina SA, thecountry’s leading player with 61% value share in2013, introduced Rexona Men Aquashield thatremains on the skin even after contact with water.Meanwhile, Beiersdorf released Nivea StressProtect and Nivea Men Stress Protect, which claimto reduce perspiration by up to 50% in stressfulsituations and offer 48-hour protection.New products tend to focus innovation on

deodorant sprays rather than roll-ons or creams,since aerosols represent an overwhelming 80%volume share. In 2014 this segment accounted for$1.1bn and registered value growth of 41%,exceeding the total market. Sprays enjoy suchstrong usage among Argentinians due to theirpracticality and low cost compared to other formats. Roll-ons follow as the second most important

format, and while it does benefit from new productlaunches from manufacturers, it suffers from lowpublic awareness. The other categories – pumps,creams and sticks – are all tiny in terms of volumesales, yet despite this, they are all developing, withpumps even registering growth of 80% in 2014.Unilever, with both the number one and number

two deodorant spray brands, Rexona and Axe, willcontinue to dominate the category in Argentinawith its strong investment in both innovation andadvertising campaigns. The market in general isexpected to enjoy a good level of performance to

2019, with a predicted volume CAGR of 2%.Data and analysis courtesy of Euromonitor Internationalwww.euromonitor.com

IRANThe deodorant market in Iran is only just emerging.Awareness of the benefits of deodorant product useis very limited, with many consumers consideringthem unnecessary for daily use. However, this isstarting to change, particularly among the youngergeneration, which accounts for the majority of salesof deodorants, particularly sprays. In 2014 Iran’s deodorant market grew by an

impressive 28% to IRR3,905bn (US$150.6m).However, this actually represents a slight slowdowncompared to 2012 and 2013. This was mainly due toa more than 50% price increase during those years,whereas the performance in 2014 was based on percapita consumption.A unique characteristic of this market is the

current development of deodorant sticks, a categorythat is experiencing exponential growth, up 31% in2014, albeit starting from a lower sales base.However, it is also due to the wider availability ofGillette (P&G) products and consumers discoveringsticks as an alternative to deodorant sprays. Sprayscontinue to reign as the largest category, however,accounting for more than 56% of value sales.As in other countries, such as India (see page 30),

deodorant sprays are often used as a cheaperalternative to fragrances, especially among women,and given as gifts for special occasions. Deodorantrange extensions from premium fragrance brandssuch as Kenzo and Amore are available. However,traditional deodorants account for the majority ofthe market, with imported mass products from bigmultinational brands leading the way.Shekofa Kish’s Nivea brand accounted for the

largest value share of the market in 2014 with 31%,while Unilever Iran’s Rexona and Axe took 15% and8% respectively, benefiting from widespreadavailability and generally being considered byconsumers as offering good quality products. Otherimported brands such as 8x4 (Beiersdorf), Gilletteand Fa (Henkel) have also been competing to targetpotential new consumers. Currently the market hasno significant competition from domestic players,although this may change in the future. Iran’s deodorant category is expected to register

continued positive growth with a CAGR of 4% atconstant 2014 prices to 2019. With the country’smarket still at a nascent stage, it represents a majoropportunity for growth.Data and analysis courtesy of Euromonitor Internationalwww.euromonitor.com

Deodorantsenjoy nearuniversal usagein Brazil thanks to thecountry’s hightemperatures

“

“Argentina: Deodorant market value,by format, 2014

US$m %+/-

Total deodorants 1,943.10 39.0

Creams 26.70 31.40

Pumps 3.30 80.30

Roll-ons 751.00 36.30

Sprays 1,134.20 41.00

Sticks 27.90 36.00


Iran: Deodorant market value, by format, 2014*

US$m %+/-

Total deodorants 150.60 27.8

Roll-ons 48.30 29.0

Sprays 26.50 84.90

Sticks 13.00 17.40


39%Value growth of

Argentina’s deodorantmarket in 2014

Source: Euromonitor

ARGENTINA

027_CBM 0715_global Roundup_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 11:57 Page 29


SPECIAL FOCUS INDIA

Furthermore, India’s tropical weather makesdeodorants more popular, Raghunandan tellsCosmetics Business Markets: “It is dusty, it issmelly, and the weather is very hot and humid,” heexplains. “No one wants to smell and stink.”According to Raghunandan, 85% of all deodorantsales take place in the big cities.

To deal with the resulting sweat problems, thereis already a big market for talcum powder in Indiawith annual sales of £159m (US$250m), saysRaghunandan. “The market is now upgrading to dedorants because talcum powders do notdestroy bacteria and therefore the smell remains,”he explains.

Spray and shareAerosol sprays are the most popular deodorantformat, due to their ease of application, immediatedryness and durability. Other sub-categories ofdeodorants, such as roll-ons and gels, constituteonly 5% of the market.

Euromonitor notes that one reason why spraysare so popular in India is because they can beshared by a family, while roll-ons are for a singleuser. As a result, sales of larger-sized aerosol cans

India’s deodorant market is still developingand spreading into the vast consumer base of theworld’s second largest population – 1.28 billion.

According to global information and marketresearch firm Nielsen, in the 12 months to May2014, Indian deodorant sales revenues were£214.994m (US$338m). And according to Mintel,this figure is expected to increase by a staggering26.8% to total £273.604 in 2015.

“It’s just a six to seven year-old story fordeodorants in India,” says Darshan Patel,Chairman and Managing Director of ViniCosmetics Ltd, based in the state of Gujarat’slargest urban centre Ahmedabad. “The annualgrowth rate of the industry is around 18% and thisrate is expected to continue for another four tofive years.”

India is expected to be one of the fastestgrowing markets globally for deodorant spraysover 2012-2016, with the category set to add 77million units to global consumption. Indian percapita consumption of deodorant sprays ispredicted to increase from 12.5ml in 2012 to20.3ml in 2016. This will still only be just over athird of the global average consumption rate,which suggests plenty of scope for furtherpenetration and product development, accordingto market research company Euromonitor.

The high growth rate is due to the low marketpenetration of deodorant products, which arecurrently used by only 10% of the population, saysS Raghunandan, CEO and Director of Mumbai-based Jyothy Laboratories Ltd, the manufacturerof Henkel’s Fa deodorants in India.

30 CBM July 2015

IndiaYoungandvibrant

India’s deodorant category only burst intolife about six years ago, and today it is oneof the world’s fastest growing markets.Reporting from New Delhi, RaghavendraVerma finds out why it is developing sorapidly and the opportunities it presents formanufacturers

India: Deodorant market value, 2014 – 2015

Year Value (£m) %+/-

2014 214.994 9.4

2015 272.604 26.8

Source: Mintel

Above: Deodorants forsale at Big Bazaar retailoutlet in Noida, Delhi.Below: Wild Stone is apopular men’s bodyspray brand in India

030 CBM 0715 country report_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 11:54 Page 30


July 2015 CBM 31

INDIA SPECIAL FOCUS

example, with prices ranging from US$10-$70.The cheapest deodorant offered is fromGermany-based ZeVa GmbH and the mostexpensive is from US brand Estée Lauder.However, in most neighbourhood stores, there areonly ten to 15 deodorant brands available at anypoint of time with prices ranging from $2-$4.50for a 120ml can.

Online on the upThe increasing popularity of online shoppingamong the target group of consumers could well

for deodorant sprays in India, such as 101ml-300ml, are popular. Hindustan Unilever launchedDove deodorant spray in a practical family sharingaerosol can, for instance.

Rising income levels and increasing awarenessabout hygiene and personal grooming, especiallyamong the younger population, have providedperfect conditions for the rapid expansion ofIndia’s deodorant market.

“Previously people started using deodorants asthey entered college, but now lot of youngsters areusing them while in school,” says NarendraKumar Daga, Director of McNroe ConsumerProducts, manufacturer of Wild Stone deodorant,a leading brand which targets young men aged 18to 30.

A recent product launch from the brand wasWild Stone’s Grey variant, introduced in 2014.The fragranced deodorant specifically targetsyoung corporate executives with its scent andcampaign. “It is a fresh and sophisticatedfragrance built on citrus and musk accord. Theentire campaign was designed around thisfragrance proposition and the campaign line was‘Strictly office wear’”, explains Daga.

In fact, as much as two-thirds of the Indiandeodorant market caters to male consumers,explains Raghunandan. This is because “thenumber of women who are out in the sun is muchless and if you are at home, you do not need somuch deodorant.”

Brand leadersThe major deodorant brands in India include Axe(Hindustan Unilever); Fogg (Vini Cosmetics);Engage (ITC Ltd); Spinz (CavinKare Ltd), Nivea(Beiersdorf); Old Spice (Procter & Gamble); ParkAvenue (Raymond Group); Yardley London(Wipro Ltd); Brut (Idelle Labs Ltd); KamaSutra (J K Ansell Ltd); Adidas (Coty); Reebok (ReebokInternational Ltd); and Garnier (L’Oréal)

In January this year, Indian personal carecompany Vanesa Care Ltd launched its ENVYAfter Dark series, targeting the upper segment ofthe market and advertising heavily on television channels.

According to Saket Govind, Senior BrandManager of Vanesa Care’s ENVY brand, whichincludes After Dark, aims to challenge thestereotypes of the category, like the use ofdeodorants to attract girls. “Our commercial saysthat girls don’t get attracted by deodorants butthrough your attitude,” he says.

Brands have also been using increasingly highprofile stars to promote their products. Forexample, in June 2014, Emami Ltd launched itsHe deodorant brand in 23 cities with the topBollywood action star Hrithik Roshan as itsofficial brand ambassador.

Axe, Wild Stone, Garnier, Adiction (MankindPharma) and several other brands also useBollywood stars to promote their brands, which isbecoming increasingly necessary in a market witha large variety of choice, both from domesticbrands and lesser known imported ones.

India’s top online retailer Flipkart lists morethan 175 deodorants brands on its website, for

26.8%Estimated growth of

India’s deodorant marketbetween 2014 and 2015

Source: Mintel

Launch highlight: ENVY After DarkENVY After Dark was launched in December2014 as a premium product range by Delhi-based Vanesa Care. Available in four variants –Techno, Trance, Rock and Hip Hop– it is soldmainly through high end stores in big towns andcities. Vanesa’s Marketing and Sales Director,Saurabh Gupta, says: “Indian consumers arenow fast maturing into quality seekers who need[the] best in whatever they consume.”As the name suggests, the product is meant

for evening use and is marketed to modern maleconsumers, with the tagline ‘Unleash your darkside’. The company claims that the rangecontains pure fragrance without any aerosol gasand that a 120ml can will last for eight monthswith 1,000 sprays.Each variant contains different fragrance

notes: Techno contains woody and sweet noteswith amber sandal and musk; Trance is anaromatic spicy fragrance with bergamot,mandarin, amber and sandal; Rock containsfragrances of vetiver, rose, lily, musk,sandalwood, patchouli, cedar and oakmoss;and Hip Hop has citrus, jasmine, spices, richsandal, vetiver and vanilla.

ENVY’s premium deodorant range, After Dark, was launched last December



SPECIAL FOCUS INDIA

lead to changes in the way companies handle theirdistribution in the country. According to a July2014 McNroe company release, Wild Stone iscurrently sold in 260,000-270,000 outlets through980 distributors around the country. Such a widenetwork may not be needed by new companies asthe online business grows, and it could also helpthem overcome constraints relating to displays atretail stores and availability in remote regions.

Within the deodorant category there is only alimited range of more expensive products tochoose from. However, Daga notes that:“Consumers are moving to more premium andexpensive formats like those priced in the range of $3.50 and $4.50, and this is helping to drivevalue growth.”

Furthermore, according to Daga, Indiandeodorant consumers have been shifting toproducts that come with a secondary carton intheir packaging. “This is a fast growing space,with Wild Stone perfume body spray, AxeSignature and Fogg Black already contributing 7to 8% of the overall deodorant category,” he says.

The spray aheadOne new trend within the spray formats is a shiftfrom aerosols to non-aerosol based deodorants.“Almost all brands in the category have launched

32 CBM July 2015

new product ranges and extensions in this formatin the last two years,” says Daga.

The pioneer in this segment has been Patel’sFogg brand, which ran a very successful televisionadvertising campaign highlighting the non-use ofgas in its cans. “Our bottle will last longer than abottle that uses gas,” says Patel. Launched in2011, Fogg is available in several dozen variantsand according to Patel, sells two million cansevery month. “We use a different form of spray that is meant for non-gaseous products,” he explains.

Describing the idea behind the new format andadvertisement campaign, Patel says ViniCosmetics was entering a very crowded deodorantmarket and had to innovate. “We needed todifferentiate ourselves and the only way to do thatwas with this format,” he explains.

Non-aerosol products already account for about20% of the deodorant market share and accordingto Patel, in another five to seven years, they willgain half of the market share.

Perfume replacementsWhile Indian deodorant companies are claimingthe body spray market is expanding quickly, theyare well aware their products are largely used ascheap perfumes, and are happy to exploit thesituation. “Ideally, the deodorants and theantiperspirants should be used on the body buthere [in India] even the television advertisementsshow people spraying it all over themselves whilefully dressed,” Monisha Mullick, Creative Head ofFine Fragrances at Goldfield Fragrances, inMumbai, tells Cosmetics Business Markets.

Retail watch: Hallmark CreativeCreationsCosmetics Business Markets speaks toNavdeep Thareja, Owner of Hallmark CreativeCreations, a retailer in Great India Place Mallthat sells personal care products.

What are the sales trends in the deodorantmarket?I have been selling deodorants for the last sixyears and sales have been constantlyincreasing. It is a fast market, which is alwayschanging. Some companies say their product isbetter for their skin while some claim it has abetter fragrance, and consumers are ready to try them.

Which are the most popular deodorants?Wild Stone is selling, Fogg is selling, in fact all ofthem are selling. There are ten to 15 popularbrands available at my shop, where I mostly sellgift items. The big store in this mall only offersimported deodorant brands as they managebetter sales margins.

Who are your main customers for deodorants?I get both rich and not-so-rich consumers. Mostof them are women who buy it for themselves or give as a gift to their loved ones. Often thesegift packs contain more than one variant of thesame brand.

What are their preferences and reasons forchoosing a product?Most consumers are brand cautious and onlypurchase well-known brands. Some of themalso look for particular fragrances and test thembefore purchasing.

Two million cans ofFogg deodorant aresold every month



July 2015 CBM 33

INDIA SPECIAL FOCUS

That being said, women have beguninterchanging their fragrances, says Mullick.“Young people don’t have very strong preferencesand are more experimental, but as one growsolder, one tries to stick to more tried and testedfragrances,” she says. However, when it comes tofine fragrances, consumers tend to be more loyal.

Yet specialised fragrances in deodorants may bea passing phase, says Raghunandan. As incomelevels rise even further, the Indian market maymove away from deodorants towards realfragrances. Already, he says, there is a luxury sub-segment where people are ready to pay more forhigh end deodorants. “Layer’r Shot from AdjavisVenture Ltd is a new body splash brand sold as apremium fragrance but priced at $3.50,” he says.ENVY After Dark and ENVY 1,000 are alsopremium brands, and Patel predicts it will onlytake five years for consumers to start shifting to“real perfume products”.

However, according to Daga, the number ofdiscerning consumers in India is very few.“Although segregation has been felt in consumers’needs, they are still uneducated to a large extent inregards to what is suitable for a day fragrance orwhat might work well for night,” he says.

Daga believes that brands will play a big role ineducating consumers and offering them fragrancesmeant for different occasions. The products forthe future, according to Daga, will revolve aroundfiner fragrances and will include those thatcombine skin care benefits with fragrance.

For now, deodorant companies are focusing onwidening their consumer base and buildingstronger brands. As companies expand, productinnovation and diverse marketing strategies willensure that consumers are never short of choices.

Retail watch: Future GroupDevendra Chawla is Group President of FMCGbrands at Future Group, which runs popular retailchains such as Big Bazaar and Food Bazaar. Hespeaks to Cosmetics Business Markets about therising popularity of deodorants in India

What deodorants/body sprays are becoming morepopular in India?Nivea, Park Avenue, Axe and Yardley are consistentplayers over the past few years. Engage hasrecently become a strong brand within this category.The market is clearly moving towards functionalbenefits and premium deodorants.

Who are the consumers of these products?Although it is a recent personal care categoryaddition, deodorants have a wide appeal and havebecome more mainstream in the last few years.

Is there a luxury sub-segment in this market?Premiumisation is happening as more addedvalue products are coming in the category.Consumers are willing to pay more, as in the lasttwo years the market has shifted from a $2.50price point to $4.50. Non-gas brands have seengood traction and we expect this trend to grow.

What do manufacturers have to do tosuccessfully compete against other brands?Spending on brand building, keeping theconsumer engaged through news around newvariants and the functional benefits of theirproducts. Sampling is a powerful tool to letconsumers experience the product/brand.

How do you differentiate the various deodorantbrands in your stores?We have classifications for men and women ascategories, and antiperspirants are treatedseparately. Otherwise, we brand block in stores asthe same brand variants need to be together.

According to Mullick, one of the reasons for theincrease in deodorants usage is that perfumes areexpensive, often costing more than $32. However,Indian consumers certainly look for strong, longlasting fragrances in a deodorant, which Daga saysis partly driven by India’s tropical climate. Mullickadds that the durability of a fragrance is a veryimportant criterion for deodorant manufacturers.“In their briefs for perfumers, companies alwayswant something that lasts six to eight hours,” shesays. They also usually mention some specificperfume notes for further development, butsometimes also go for fragrances that are alreadypopular, Mullick explains.

Deodorant companies also usually have a strictbudget for the purchase of fragrances, saysMullick. “At any given time we have severalfragrances in our library,” she said. “Sometimeswe may tweak them according to the requirementor they might accept what we have.”

The perfume making company only charges forthe price of fragrance and there is usually noseparate developmental cost. “Depending on theclient, the cost of the fragrance is $20-$40 perkilogram,” says Mullick. “We cannot use veryhigh end materials like pure essential oils whenworking on deodorants.” However, she notes thelargest cost component when developing adeodorant is the expense of producing metal cans.

Scents of attractionWith increased focus on male customers,deodorant companies are looking for attractivemale fragrances, which Mullick says tend to bemore citrusy, woody, amber-orientated, ozonic,watery and fresh, while female fragrances aremore floral and sweet.

Consumersare moving tomore premiumand expensiveformats likethose priced inthe range of$3.50 and $4.50,and this ishelping to drivevalue growthNarendra Kumar Daga,Director, McNroeConsumer Products

“

“

Popular retail chainBig Bazaar has foundthat consumers arefavouring premiumdeodorants andproducts withfunctional benefits



PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT CLICKSTICK

ELECTRICREVOLUTIONNews hit last year about the world’sfirst smart electric deodorantapplicator, ClickStick. On the brinkof its release, Cosmetics BusinessMarkets talks to Co-FounderGilad Arwatz about the uniqueinnovation which could justrevolutionise the deodorant market

What is ClickStick? ClickStick is a battery operated smartelectric deodorant applicator. With a oneclick push-button application, it enablesusers to apply exact amounts of deodorant,while avoiding stains, elminiating irritationand stickiness. It comes with a mess-freerefill kit and a free mobile app that gives theuser advice on the amount of deodorant theyneed, based on their activity level. It thensets the required amount and ClickStick’sinternal microprocessor, which controls asmall electric motor, delivers the sameamount of deodorant every time. TheClickStick also has a digital display thatgives the user their refill status so they knowwhen it’s time to re-order, and it comes withtwo AAA replaceable batteries. As usagetime is low, batteries last up to a year.

What deodorant does ClickStickuse? The ClickStick comes with an eco-friendlycontainer filled with a deodorant of the user’schoice. We offer everything from natural toclinical strength deodorant and a wide rangeof scents.

How does it eliminate the cause of stains? Currently, all stick deodorants on the marketrequire the formulation to be exposed beforethe user is ready to apply it. This is thenumber one source of deodorant stains.ClickStick’s push-button technology enablesthe user to get the deodorant in the rightplace every time.

How environmentally friendly isClickStick? Almost everyone uses deodorant. It is ahuge market. But it also generates atremendous amount of waste. Six billiondispensers are sold and dumped everyyear, which is equivalent to the weight ofseven Titanics. The ClickStick, with itsrefillable container and refill pouches,reduces plastic waste by as much as 90%.

Why do you think ClickStick couldrevolutionise the deodorantcategory? Other than being a completely new device,it is also a new model on the market.There have been updates and technologyadvancements in several areas ofpersonal care, but the deodorantapplicator has been the one area whereinnovation has been lacking. ClickStick is the only product thatdispenses an accurate dosage and helpsto avoid staining, one of the mainproblems that other brands have. It is also a nice, luxury device to use. It’s fun.We wanted to make one of the few thingsyou do every day enjoyable and easy, but also smart and advanced. The features of ClickStick make putting ondeodorant a better experience, but theapplication technology can be used withvirtually anything.

How much will it retail for? The deodorant retails at $20 and once theconsumer has bought the device theykeep it and buy refills once it runs out. Arefill costs $3. This makes it actuallycheaper than current deodorants on themarket by about $2 to $3, so after four tofive months, the user breaks even.

When is the product due to launch? The device is in production and we willsee the first products soon. We hope it willbe on the market within the next two tothree months. Initially we are targetinghigh end cosmetics retailers but I wouldlike to see it in the mass market. A similarevolution happened with the electrictoothbrush.

Where will ClickStick be available? Intially in the US, because that’s wherewe’re based, but then internationally. We will also sell online through theClickStick website.

ClickStick claims to be the only deodorantproduct to dispense an accuratedosage, eliminating irritationand staining

34 CBM July 2015

034_CBM 0715 product spotlight_Passed_Layout 1 06/07/2015 12:16 Page 34


nt

is p

ublis

hed

byTh

is do

cum

e

A4_ad_template.qxp_Layout 1 09/06/2015 14:04 Page 1


CPL Aromas

A wor ld of insp i ra t ion

A4 pages_Layout 1 25/02/2015 12:29 Page 1


Documents

DEODORAN TS - HPCi