Discover Taos - Summer Visitors Guide 2015

2 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

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Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 3

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26 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com26 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

156130 DEPARTMENTS28FROM THE EDITORTaos: Discover, explore and experience

32GETTING HEREDriving directions, airport, rental care and shuttle information

34AREA MAPSPoints of interest, a downtown walking tour and the Enchanted Circle

36ARTS AND CULTUREStories about visual, literary and musical arts, including a list of museums and a piece on the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists.

CONTENTS2015

98

SUMMER/FALL

Clockwise from top: The Matriarch Suite-Mabel Dodge Luhan, at Palacio de Marquesa, Courtesy Heritage Hotels & Resorts/Jeff Caven Resort Hotel Photography; Arroyo Seco-based Taos Cows blueberry and strawberry ice cream made with the purest ingredients, photo by Tina Larkin; and mountain biking in the Enchanted Circle.

Continues on page 30

COVER DESIGN: Michelle M. Gutierrez


DISCOVER, EXPLORE AND

EXPERIENCEO

nce the snow melts and the winds of spring die down, and the air starts to warm up, a new energy takes over Taos. While winter is about hitting the slopes and otherwise laying low, summer in Northern New Mexico is an active and exciting time.

Discover Taos, Visitor & Newcomer Guide for summer and fall 2015 should be your guide to capturing that excitement. We have stories that will help you explore, discover and experience Taos in ways you may not have expected before.

We have stories dedicated to our areas signicant arts and culture, whether that means the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists, the new generation of Taos artists or local music and lm events. These are experiences you wont want to miss. Check out page 36 for more information.

And whether you are from here, or just visiting, youre gonna need to eat something. And while youre eating something, you might as well have a drink, right? Its all part of the experience. Weve got all your foodie desires covered in our food and beverage section, beginning on page 76.

Of course we can also help you nd a place to stay (page 98) but if youre an adventurous type (and were guessing you are, else you wouldnt be here), then youll want to skip right ahead to page 106 to explore all the options and choose your own Taos adventure. From sight-seeing to rock climbing, its all here.

And lastly, the Enchanted Circle wouldnt be the place it is without the communities that dot this rugged and beautiful landscape. From sacred Taos Pueblo to the charming Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, youll want to discover the people and places that make these communities special.

This years Guide comes with an added bonus: The new Discover Taos website, an online repository of wonderful images, great information and extra summer content. Check it out at DiscoverTaos.com. Readers are also encouraged to check out our Facebook and Twitter accounts, as well as our Pinterest, Instagram and YouTube feeds.

Catch the excitement of a Taos summer and dont forget to bring along your ofcial Discover Taos guide.

Andy Jones, special sections editor

EDITORSNOTESUMMER/FALL

Jim ODonnell

Paid Political AdvertisementPaid for by the Committee to Re-Elect Roberto

Bobby J. Gonzales, Marcos Gonzales Treasurer

State Representative Roberto Bobby J. Gonzales

District 42, Democrat

Im proud to represent the people, cultures and history that make northern New Mexico so unique. As New Mexico State Representative for District 42 from Taos County, I work hard to ensure the protection of our valuable cultural and natural resources.

Whether you are returning or this is your rst visit to our High-Desert Paradise, were glad youre here.

Stop and take in the views, savor that last drop of green chile, and enjoy the shopping!

Welcome Were glad to have you.

WelcomeBienvenidos!to Taos County

and Northern New Mexico!


DISCOVER TAOS

SUMMER VISITOR GUIDE

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cindy BrownAndy Dennison

Teresa DovalpageMel A. JamesJim ODonnell

Yvonne PesqueraSteve Tapia

Wayne Thurber

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTDylan Atencio

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Steven BundyRobert Groos

Chris McLennanJim ODonnellGeraint Smith

Gak Stonn

TAOS NEWS STAFFRobin Martin,

owner

Chris Baker, publisher

Joan Livingston, editor

Chris Wood, advertising manager


Michelle M. Gutierrez, lead editorial designer

Jennifer Taphorn, production manager

Katharine Egli, staff photographer

Cody Hooks, reporter

J.R. Logan, reporter

Andrew Oxford, reporter

Gabriel Weinstein, reporter

Luckie Daniels, discovertaos.com

digital design manager

76FOOD AND BEVERAGEFeatures on the best dining options in Taos, including our favorite breakfast burritos, the best bar food and the burgeoning food cart culture.

98LODGINGTeresa Dovalpage looks at two of our areas most unique accommodations.

106CHOOSE YOUR TAOS ADVENTUREFrom sight-seeing to roaring down the Ro Grande, weve got all your adventure needs covered.

199CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Continued from page 26

CONTENTS2015SUMMER/FALL

76 STAFF &CONTRIBUTORS

TAOS, IN PICTURESA collection of great images with pertinent information, guaranteed to whet your whistle for all things Taos:

44 ACEQUIAS

48 VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL STATE PARK

6650 YEARS OF THE RO GRANDE GORGE BRIDGE

104SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS CATHOLIC CHURCH

116BALLOONING OVER (AND IN) THE GORGE

144OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS AND RESORT

145ORILLA VERDE RECREATION AREA

186VALLE VIDAL UNIT OF THE CARSON NATIONAL FOREST

AROUND THE ENCHANTED CIRCLEStories and information about the communities that comprise our region:

154TAOS PUEBLO

156ARROYO SECO

160TAOS SKI VALLEY

164ANGEL FIRE

170EAGLE NEST

172RED RIVER

176QUESTA

180SIPAPU

DEPARTMENTS

Visit discovertaos.comto explore what

else Taos has to offer

128

118

Clockwise: Old Martinas bar, photo by Tina Larkin. A crescent moon and Venus hang in the sky looking southwest toward the Pedernal, photo by Gak Stonn; and a kayaker on the Ro Grande, photo by Steven Bundy.

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com


M I L E S

0 5 10 15 20

High Roadto Taos

Main Routeto Taos

Pilar

Velarde

TAOS

ArroyoSeco

ArroyoHondo

Taos SkiValley

AngelFire

Taos Pueblo

Questa Red River

EagleNest

Ranchos de Taos

Peasco

PicurisPueblo

Espaola

Las Vegas

Chimay

Mora

SANTA FE

Tres Piedras

Ojo Caliente

Pojoaque

LosAlamos

36 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com36 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com36 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Its no secret that Taos has a rich and diverse history as a place where culture and artistic endeavors ourish. Whether it be visual art, music, literary arts, lm or something

a bit different, Taos has a lot to offer those who enjoy the creative process or seeing it in action.

And with a rich heritage that begins with Taos Pueblo, Taos is absolutely ush with culture. With as many high-quality museums as most cities, and quirky characters all around, Taos is as interesting as a small town can be.

Thats why we tried to capture

the artistic and cultural spirit with a series of articles that touch on our various artistic traditions. We take you to Lama to visit the D.H. Lawrence Ranch (page 38) and we celebrate the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists (page 46). We step more directly into the modern age with the lm locations of Taos (page 42) and a story about the next generation of Taos artists (page 58).

Of course, Taos is also a great music town, and weve got a full summer schedule of events for you on page 74. While youre at these events, you might notice some

policemen on bicycles: we even tell you what thats all about on page 70.

And of course, youre gonna need to get around from gallery to museum and venue to event, so weve collected some of the most useful shortcuts for bypassing trouble spots (page 64).

If you dont fully buy into Taos reputation as a world-class arts destination, just stick around a few more days. Let the experience sink in and let the light remind you why youre here.


ARTS & CULTUREExperience Taos

Rodrigo y Gabriela will be playing at this years Taos Solar Music Festival, photo by Jim Mimna/ Courtesy Big.Hassle Media

38D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH By Joan Livingston

42A CINEMATIC LANDSCAPEBy Andrew Oxford

46ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF LIGHTBy Yvonne Pesquera

52THE MANY AND VARIED MUSEUMS OF TAOS

58TAOS ARTISTS: THE NEXT GENERATIONBy Yvonne Pesquera

64TAKING THE BACKROADSBy Mel A. James

70COPS ON BIKESBy Yvonne Pesquera

742015 MUSIC FESTIVALS& CONCERTS


ARTS & CULTURE

D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH

For fans of the author D.H. Lawrence, a visit to his ranch in San Cristbal is a must-do activity.

D.H. and Frieda Lawrence rst came to New Mexico in 1922 at the invitation of Mabel Dodge Luhan, a

noted patron of the arts who settled in Taos. The Lawrences stayed three times for a total of 11 months. On the second trip, Luhan gifted them the ranch. In return they gave her the manuscript of Sons and Lovers.

The 160-acre property, also known as the Kiowa Ranch, has two modest cabins made of Ponderosa pine logs cut in the 1880s and adobe plaster. The Lawrences lived in one, and their friend, Lady Dorothy Brett, in the other.

A chapel-like building serves as D.H. Lawrences memorial. The story goes Frieda mixed his ashes with concrete to create the altar inside. Friedas grave is located outside.

Then, there is the tall pine tree beneath which Lawrence wrote in long hand. Artist Georgia O'Keeffe immortalized the pine in her painting, The Lawrence Tree.

Lawrence wrote a short novel, St. Mawr, at the ranch, plus a biblical drama, David and parts of The Plumed Serpent.

Frieda, who died in 1955, gave the ranch to the University of New Mexico to be used "for educational, cultural and recreational purposes" and to serve as a memorial for her husband,

who died in 1930.

The ranch was closed for several years. But thanks to the efforts of the Taos Community Foundation and the D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance, the ranch was reopened in 2014 after repairs were made to its historic buildings.

Recent visitors to the ranch include Joanna Terry, a descendant of Frieda who lives in England. She was welcomed at a reception, ttingly at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House in Taos.

Sharon Oard Warner, a University of New Mexico professor who is the university liaison for the ranch, said Terrys visit was a mark of the enthusiasm and love we all have for the ranch.

BY JOAN LIVINGSTON

Courtesy D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance

A buffalo mural, originally by Taos Pueblo artist Trinidad Archuleta adorns the west side of the Lawrence cabin at the D.H. Lawrence Ranch. Archuleta was the nephew of Tony Luhan, and as such, Luhans grand-nephew, Mark Luhan spearheaded efforts to restore the mural.


A literary landmark


The ranch was expected to open full-time in May. Visit dhlawrencetaos.org for a schedule and events.GETTING THERE:

To reach the ranch from Taos, take State Road 522 North toward San Cristbal. Look for signs for San Cristbal Road and the D.H. Lawrence Ranch. The last leg is 7 miles on a good dirt forest service road. Bear right at each branch until the end. Watch out for cows.

PADRE ANTONIO JOS MARTNEZ, was a priest, educator, publisher, rancher, farmer, community leader, and politician. He appears as a character in author Willa Cather's Death Comes for the Archbishop.

SPUD JOHNSON was a poet and the editor of the Laughing Horse magazine and The Horse Fly, a one-page newspaper.

MABEL DODGE LUHAN was a grand dame of the arts, drawing many on this list to Los Gallos, her Taos home. She wrote several books including Edge of Taos Desert: An Escape to Reality.

ELIZABETH SHEPLEY SERGEANT was a World War I correspondent, author and biographer; she wrote about Taos Pueblo and New Mexico.

ROBINSON JEFFERS, a poet, visited in summers during the 1930s at Luhans invitation.

THOMAS WOLFE, a novelist whose works include Look Homeward Angel, arrived in 1935 at Luhans invitation but as the story goes, she refused to see him because he was too drunk.

THORNTON WILDER, who won the Pulitzer for drama and literature, also visited Luhan.

WILLA CATHA, an author who won the Pulitzer Prize, was a frequent visitor to Los Gallos.

ALDOUS HUXLEY, another Luhan guest, wrote Ends and Means while in Taos.

MYRON BRINIG, a Taos resident, was a prolic novelist who wrote about the hardships of miners and labor activists in his native Montana.

VLADIMIR NABOKOV, the Russian author of Lolita, spent a disappointing summer in 1954 with his family in Taos.

FRANK WATERS, who lived in Arroyo Seco, wrote novels and historical works about the Southwest such as Book of the Hopi and The Man Who Killed the Deer.

EDWARD ABBEY, author, environmentalist and political anarchist, wrote Desert Solitaire and The Monkey Wrench Gang. While in Taos, he worked as a newspaper reporter and bartender.

JUDSON CREWS was a poet, bookseller, editor and small-press publisher who published the works of fellow poets.

JAMES DOSS, a mystery writer, was known for his many novels about the ctional Ute detective/rancher Charlie Moon.

TONY HILLERMAN was an author of detective novels and non-ction. A former editor of The Santa Fe New Mexican, he captured Taos with his short story The Great Taos Bank Robbery.


A CHAPEL-LIKE BUILDING SERVES AS D.H. LAWRENCES MEMORIAL. THE STORY GOES FRIEDA MIXED HIS ASHES WITH CONCRETE TO CREATE THE ALTAR INSIDE. FRIEDAS GRAVE IS LOCATED OUTSIDE.

Courtesy D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance

The interior of the Lawrence Memorial Chapel.

OTHER LATE, GREAT AUTHORS WITH A TAOS CONNECTION


The landscape of Taos can seem holy at times.

Woody Harrelson acknowledges as much in the 1994 lm Natural Born Killers when his character, Mickey, proposes marriage to Mallory (Juliette

Lewis), his partner in a killing spree that turns the duo into a media sensation.

Where are we going to get married? Mallory asks after they toss remnants of their traumatic childhoods off the Ro Grande Gorge Bridge.

Here, Harrelson says. This is our church.

What was a church to Mickey and Mallory has also been the scene of a car chase in the post-apocalyptic future depicted in Terminator Salvation (2009) and is not far from the desert landscapes of All the Pretty Horses (2000).

While Taos is certainly different things to different people, the same is true for lmmakers.

The diverse landscapes are what have made this an attractive place for producers, according to Don Gray, contract locations coordinator for the New Mexico Film Ofce.

Most of the scripts that get made here are not set in New Mexico, he says.

But when talking to lmmakers about where to shoot scenes set in Afghanistan without actually traveling to Central Asia, Gray pitches New Mexicos high desert as an option. And the Ro Grande Gorge outside Taos can easily substitute for Arizonas Grand Canyon, he says.

When the producers of Seraphim Falls (2006) asked where they could nd snow in New Mexico, Gray offered up Taos Ski Valley.

This is a great example of something Taos has going for it, Gray says.

Starring Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan, the lm centers on a manhunt sprawling across 19th century Nevada.

Its this journey from the highest point to the lowest point, he says.

While the movie covers a lot of ground, lmmakers did not have to go too far in shooting it.

Taos, of course, has played a role in more than one classic Western.

Scenes from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance

Kid (1979) starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford, Valley of the Sun (1942) starring Lucille Ball and James Craig as well as The Man from Laramie (1955) starring James Stewart were shot in Taos.

And Easy Rider (1969) has become synonymous with Taos. Starring Dennis Hopper, Jack Nicholson and Peter Fonda, the lm made use of a pointedly unglamorous setting the old county jail.

Recent sci- icks have made use of the local landscape, too.

Portions of Paul (2011) and The Signal (2014) were shot at the Ro Grande Gorge Bridge.

And at least one scene from Batman vs. Superman was shot atop Kachina Peak in Dec. 2014.

So what keeps the lm crews coming back?

Gray says Taos has a few things to its

advantage.

The states lm industry hub is in Albuquerque and while producers see each mile their crews must travel from the city in terms of dollars and cents, Taos at least has the infrastructure to host productions.

There are hotel rooms for crews to sleep in and restaurants where they can dine.

But theres more than those basics, Gray says.

Film companies want to source things locally, he notes, explaining antique stores and art galleries are often sought to provide set dressing. Meanwhile, crews might also require heavy machinery like backhoes and amenities like portable bathrooms.

No, these concerns are not glamorous but as long as Taos can deliver, it will continue to nd itself in the proverbial limelight. Of course, a beautiful landscape and great light doesnt hurt either.

BY ANDREW OXFORD

Rick Romancito

Terminator Salvation lming on the Ro Grande Gorge Bridge.

ARTS & CULTURE

A CINEMATIC LANDSCAPE

Memorable lm scene locations dot Northern New Mexico


DISCOVER

TAOS IN P ICTURES

When Spanish colonists settled in what is present-day New Mexico, they brought with them a system of irrigation known as the acequia. These engineered canals employ gravity to move water through these earthen aqueducts in order to water crops and livestock. While acequias were common in Texas, Colorado, Arizona and California as well, only the acequias of New Mexico still function pretty much as they have for centuries, with mayordomos and parciantes in control of the governance of the ditches. Without the acequia, Spanish colonization would have been a much more difcult task and modern-day agriculture would be very different as well.

D I SCOVER NORTHERN NEW MEX ICO CU LTURE ACEQU IAS

Photographer Geraint Smith says, Just a few steps off the highway in El Prado, and practically running under ones feet, this irrigation ditch always makes me smile. When I stop and take in this scene, I feel the breeze on my face, hear the running water and my senses begin to glow. The acequia feels akin to the blood in my veins as it carries the life-giving water to the lands in the Taos Valley.

FACTS: The acequia is such

an important feature in our region that the idea of starting a

Museum of the Acequia was recently proposed. To offer support for this effort,

visit taosacequias.org

The are 75 independent acequias, laterals and carrier ditches that are members of the

Taos Valley Acequia Association.

The Taos Valley is one of three sites for New Mexico State Universitys acequia

multi-disciplinary research project funded the National Science

Foundation.

Geraint Smith



For the longest time, Taos was a remote mountain outpost, home to Taos Pueblo and a hardy bunch of Hispano settlers. The only other adventurous folks who gravitated here included Army scouts like Kit Carson and fur trappers like Frenchman Ceran St. Vrain. Most of the businesses on Taos Plaza sold rearms, pelt blankets, leather ware, and miners tools.

Art was always part of the traditions of the residents of the Taos Valley, but beginning in the early part of the 20th Century, there was a shift

from an economy based on mining, hunting and agriculture to something that also included the art galleries, boutiques, museums, and artist studios that dot the region today.

In the summer of 1915, six artists joined together to form the Taos Society of Artists: Oscar Edmund Berninghaus, Ernest Leonard Blumenschein, Eanger Irving Couse, William Herbert Dunton, Bert Geer Phillips, and Joseph Henry Sharp.

The Society organized its paintings to travel to

the buyers in major cities such as Boston, Chicago, New York, and San Francisco. By deliberately combining their individual efforts for the common good, they were the founding fathers of the Taos arts colony that is a big part of our reputation to the outside world.

But how did these artists even nd Taos in the rst place? At the turn of the last century, it was a harrowing one- to two-day journey through the canyon from Santa Fe and that was in the good weather.

ARTS & CULTURE

ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF LIGHT

2015 marks the centennial founding of the Taos Society of Artists

BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Courtesy Couse Foundation

The newly formed Taos Society of Artists on the porch at the home of Eanger Irving Couse in 1915. From left, Bert G. Phillips, W.H. Buck Dunton, Joseph H. Sharp, O.E. Berninghaus, Couse and Ernest L. Blumenschein.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 47Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 47

Robert R. White edited the authoritative history of the group in the text, The Taos Society of Artists. He writes, In 1898, Blumenschein and Phillips were traveling through the mountains about 20 miles north of Taos. Their wagon slid into a deep rut and the left rear wheel collapsed.

Taking the broken wheel to Taos for repair, Blumenschein and Phillips arrived in Taos together. The delay caused by the broken wheel had given both of them time to look at the country and to decide that Taos was as far as they wanted to go.

The duo talked about gathering artists in Taos like the group of Barbizon painters and writers, referring to the early 19th century French arts colony. But Blumenschein actually returned to New York after a few months.

The Taos Society of Artists and the resulting art colony came into being through the sweat, grit, and perseverance of Phillips.

Phillips absolutely loved the light and colors of the Southwest. He couldve stayed painting all day except he needed to earn a living. He was as wildly resourceful as he was deeply creative.

He was, in fact, the rst U.S. Forest Ranger of the Carson National Forest (in the Taos Ski Valley area). And he worked a mining claim, likely in the Twining copper mining area of Taos Ski Valley.

Rather than distract him from painting, these pursuits enriched Phillips approach to his artwork and strengthened his zeal that other painters should come to Taos and join him.

He, Blumenschein (who had returned), and Sharp (who had visited Taos on an earlier occasion) invited other artists to Taos. These were contemporaries from the Art Student League of New York and Acadmie Julian in Paris.

Phillips had been elected to the Society of Western artists, which at time, only stretched as far

west as St. Louis. When that group disbanded in 1914, it gave Phillips a model for organizing Taos artists. He willingly took on the role of founder of the Taos arts colony, encouraging others to come to Taos and tirelessly promoting the idea.

Some members were self-taught, whereas others were highly educated. Regardless of their backgrounds, they were now painters of the Southwest. They used bold brushstrokes of sumptuous paint, capturing the famous Taos light that warmly glows at this high altitude.

They approached their paintings with thick representations of architectural elements and traditional dress, using rich, warm colors to convey a sense of peacefulness.

The Taos Society of Artists lasted from 1915-1927. White points to the fact that they had chartered, held meetings, and kept secretarial minutes which tells of their dreams and aspirations.

All told, there would eventually be 21 members of the Society in the active, associate, and honorary categories. But the core group of six gentlemen settled in Taos and lived here long after the Society was just a memory. Their work and their inuence is still with us.

Courtesy Taos Historic Museums

Bert Phillips and Ernest Blumenschein talk next to a different wagon wheel years after their early adventure helped establish the reputation of Taos as and art colony.

NEED MORE ART? Visit The Taos News Gallery Guide at discovertoas.com.


EXPLORE

TAOS IN P ICTURES

A beautiful and respectful memorial was established in 1968 by Victor and Jeanne Westphall to honor their son, Lt. David Westphall, who was killed in the Vietnam War that same year. When it was opened in 1971, it was one of the rst memorials of its kind in the United States dedicated to Vietnam veterans. The park provides a memorial to veterans and a Visitors Center that serves as a place for reunion, reection, healing and sharing of experiences, according to vietnamveteransmemorial.org, the website for the David Westphall Veterans Foundation.

A F I T T ING T R I BUTE V I E TNAM VE T E RANS MEMOR IA L S TATE PARK

Photographer Steven Bundy says, Each time I walk through the gardens of the memorial property, I am struck by the tranquil beauty of the setting; as well as the powerful feeling of peaceful serenity that surrounds me. I cant help remembering family members and friends who gave their lives in this controversial war. It is a powerful and beautiful place to visit.

FACTS: 10 adjacent acres to

the park have been selected as a rural veterans cemetary. The land was

donated by two Vietnam veterans.

The park sits on 30 acres in the beautiful Moreno Valley, in between Angel Fire and Eagle Nest.

In addition to the Chapel and the Visitors Center, the State Park grounds also features the Veterans Memorial

Walkway, which includes bricks commemorating veterans, with dates of service and name included. New

bricks are added every September when volunteers from Run for the Wall Reunion devote an entire

Saturday to the project.

For more interesting facts, visit vietnamveteransmemorial.org

Steven Bundy



1504 Millicent Rogers Road www.millicentrogers.org 575-758-2462

MRMMILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM

Explore the Heritage o f

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4 MILES NORTH OF TAOS PLAZA


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Taos NM 87571


THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM1504 Millicent Rogers RoadOpen daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.Twenty separate galleries showcasing the heritage of the Southwest, including jewelry, paintings, and pottery such as the family collection of Maria Martinez.$10 per adult; $8 for seniors; $6 for military (active or veteran); $6 for students (16-21 with ID); $2 per child (6-16); free admission for children under 6; free admission for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.(575) 758-2462 millicentrogers.org

THE E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN HOME AND MUSEUM222 Ledoux StreetOpen Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m.Maintained as when artist Ernest L. Blumenschein an original member of the Taos Society of Artists and his family lived there.$8 for adults; $4 per child (5-15); free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.

(575) 758-0505 taoshistoricmuseums.org

HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ708 Hacienda WayOpen Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m.A fortress-like trading post on the National Register of Historic Places that gives a glimpse of the rugged frontier life; constructed in 1804 by Severino Martinez.$8 for adults; $4 per child (5-15); free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.(575) 758-1000 taoshistoricmuseums.org

THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART238 Ledoux StreetOpen Tue.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m.Showcases a permanent collection of more than 4,700 works of art and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th century onward.$10 per adult; 8$ for seniors; $8 per student; free admission to youth (18 and under); free

admission to UNM students and faculty; free admission to members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance; free admission to Taos County residents on Sundays.(575) 758-9826 harwoodmuseum.org

GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM117 Bent Street Visit for hours and admission feesThe home of the states rst American governor a highly respected trapper, trader and mountain man.

KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM113 Kit Carson RoadOpen daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.Taoss oldest museum, the home of Kit Carson, frontiersman, trapper, soldier, and scout.$7 per adult; $6 for seniors and tour groups of eight or more people; $5 for teens and students; free to children under 12; free to Kit Carson Home and Museum members; free to Taos County residents every Sunday; free to active military personnel; and free to Masonic

members.(575) 758-4945 kitcarsonhomeandmuseum.org

TAOS ART MUSEUM AT FECHIN HOUSE227 Paseo del Pueblo NorteOpen Tue.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.The home studio of artist Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin, showcasing a blend of Russian and Southwestern artworks.$10 per adult; $9 for seniors; $6 per student; $8 per person in groups of 10 or more; free admission to children under 12; free admission on Sundays for Taos County residents(575) 758-2690 taosartmuseum.org

THE COUSE HOUSE146 Kit Carson RoadThe home and studio of 20th century artist Eanger Irving Couse and his family. Appointments may be made for tours of the house.Call (575) 751-0369 to arrange a visit couse-sharp.org

ARTS & CULTURE

THE MANY AND VARIED MUSEUMS OF TAOS

Steven Bundy

The Kit Carson Home and Museum on Kit Carson Road in Taos.


Georgia OKeeffe, Black Mesa Landscape, New Mexico / Out Back of Maries II, 1930.Oil on canvas, 241/4 x 361/4 in. Georgia OKeeffe Museum. Gift of The Burnett Foundation.

Georgia OKeeffe Museum.

GALLERIES = HOME & STUDIO = STORE = RESEARCH CENTER

217 JOHNSON ST. = 5O5.946.1OOO = OKEEFFEMUSEUM.ORG

Make OKeeffe part of your New Mexico

experience


FAMOUS TAOS POP-UP STOREAFFORDABLE GIFTS BY TAOS HANDS

JULY 3 - JULY 30Join the artisans for a special celebration party

July 3rd 5:00 - 7:00 pm

STABLES GALLERY(BEHIND THE TAOS INN)

OPEN EVERY DAY10 AM - 5 PM

575 779 8568 WWW.TAOSFOLK.COM

ThomWheeler.com

939 Kit Carson u Taos u 758-8870

"Pueblo" 40" x 40" Oil on Canvas



Taos has a deeply rich arts history, which stretches back millennia with the Taos Pueblo Indians and other early Native residents and Spanish settlers, but this year, Taos is celebrating the 100-year anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists.

In 1915, six artists organized to make art in Taos and sell it to far-reaching markets in Boston, Chicago, New York and San Francisco. In a sense, they were trailblazers for undertaking this sort of marketing and commercial outreach beyond the Southwest.

Today, the next generation of Taos artists continues bringing Taos to the world and the world to Taos.

Take, for example, Matt Thomas. He's an artist, architect, urban planner and entrepreneur. As if that werent enough to keep him busy, Thomas is also the driving force behind innovative projects such as Pecha Kucha Taos, a community showcase for local creators and innovators, and The Paseo, an outdoor arts exposition of large-scale art installations that coincides with the Taos Fall Arts Festival.

In some ways, Thomas effort is reminiscent of Bert Phillips, who was the organizing force behind the Taos Society of Artists (1915-1927). When asked about this similarity to an artist-organizer from the last century, Thomas is honored and humbled by the comparison. And with trademark laser-focus, Thomas offers a reply.

Taos was put on the map both from the inspiring community already here and the constant migration of visitors. We need to remember that as we move into the next 100 years, he says.

ARTS & CULTURE

TAOS ARTISTS: THE NEXT GENERATION

Innovative artists building ever higher on 100-year anniversary of Taos Society of Artists

BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Tina Larkin

Artisan welder Christina Sporrong, shown here in 2011 working on a section of her interactive sculpture, Caged Pulse Jets, which was featured in the innaugural The Paseo art vent last fall.


He points out that exciting creative and innovative energy continues to exist in Taos. Across the county, there are other artists creating visions and inviting others to join in outlets of creative expressions.

Over the High Road in beautiful Peasco, the Peasco Theatre Collective has been a constant source of artistic feats in Northern New Mexico.

Rebekah Tarn, a visual artist, educator, and critical thinker working with the Peasco Theatre since 2003, says, Art saves lives. It gives meaning to madness and universalizes the human experience.

Alessandra Ogren is a co-founder and former co-artistic director of Wise Fool New Mexico. She says, We think the Taos Society of Artists would have loved to come to the Peasco Theatre full of acrobats, poets, activists and trapeze artists!

When the Taos Society of Artists was founded in 1915, art meant painting. Today, individual artists have evolved art to mean so much more.

Christina Sporrong is a welder, artist and performer whose large-scale metal sculptures are evidence of boundless imagination.

By the time I was working in the arts and even through art school, I had access to sculpture as a medium, electronics, computers as well as painting and drawing, she says. The tools artists use is a reection of the access they have to the world they live in.

Sporrong is currently collaborating with other artists to create a makerspace, called The Toolbox, in downtown Taos. The Toolbox will be a shared space for creators, innovators, and makers to tinker on ideas and bring them to fruition.

Out on the mesa, 93.5 KNCE True Taos Radio is an independent, locally owned, community-supported radio station.

Were an FM radio station operating out of a 1978 Airstream Excella behind Taos Mesa Brewing, says co-founder John Henderson.

He notes that art certainly has evolved in the last 100 years and a medium such as radio can be another valuable art form in a small, diverse community like Taos.

True Taos Radio is certainly our own artist colony, but our canvas is the airwaves, says Henderson.


Rick Romancito

The big red robot, by artist Christian Ristow, become the focal point of the inaugural The Paseo outdoor art event last fall.

NEED MORE ART? Visit The Taos News Gallery Guide at discovertoas.com.


121 KIT CARSON ROAD TAOS, NEW MEXICO 575-758-9407 BRYANSGALLERY.COM

Since 1982 in TaosFeaturing the works of Taos Pueblo Artists

LEFT TO RIGHT: BERNADETTE TRACK, JOHN SUAZO, DAWNING POLLEN SHORTY, ANGIE YAZZIE,CASSANDRA & MICHAEL DUKEPOO, JOE GOMEZ, POB CALLE MARY ARCHULETA, TSEM ANTONIA LUJAN,

GLENN GOMEZ, RODNEY CONCHA, NED ARCHULETA

See where the Taos art colony began.

100 years ago six artists met and the Taos Society of Artists was born. The groups paintings introduced the country to the American West and its native cultures. The mark they made on the art world transformed Taos forever. Come stand where they stood. Tour the studios of E.I. Couse and J.H. Sharp. Join in the celebration of this vital legacy.

Discover this rich history by attending the events surrounding 100 Year Anniversary of the Taos Society of Artists.

For More Information on Events: couse-sharp.orgVisit: 146 Kit Carson Road, Taos, New MexicoBook a Free Tour: 575-751-0369

Advertising partially paid for by Taos County Lodgers Tax.


AN ENDURING APPEAL:

THE TAOS SOCIETY OF ARTISTS

An exhibition of paintings and works on paper by members of the Taos Society of Artists

MAY 16 - SEPTEMBER 7, 2015

Oscar E. Berninghaus, Little Joe, 1941, oil on canvas, courtesy of private collection

An Enduring Appeal: The Taos Society of Artists is presented with support from Michael and Rebecca Jusbasche, Gary and Barbara DeVane, and other supporters.

238 Ledoux Street in Taos (just off the plaza)575.758.9826 www.harwoodmuseum.org


The roads in Taos are less of a grid than most places and more of a spaghetti bowl. This unique conguration can make getting around difcult, especially if youre new to town or just visiting. The biggest string of trafc is along our main thoroughfare, Paseo del Pueblo Sur (Paseo del Pueblo Norte north of the Plaza). It will take you all the way through town on a pretty direct line, but that means its also the busiest path. If you want to avoid the stop-and-go of bumper-to-bumper trafc and see a lesser-known side of Taos, then read on for some alternate routes to get you where youre going.

The most popular shortcut is one that will take you around the backside of Taos Plaza via Camino de la Placita. But with its multiple stop signs, crosswalks and popularity, its not much

better than the main road. Other relief routes around town involve Gusdorf Road and Salazar Road, both of which run parallel to Paseo much of the way through town. These are good for short trips between businesses. But if you plan on taking any left turns back onto Paseo del Pueblo, make sure your side street return ends in a stoplight or you could wait a long time to make that turn. Another road thats good for getting from one end to the other is Camino del Medio, which reaches from State Road 240 to Lower Ranchitos Road, but its denitely a bumpy ride, with numerous speed bumps along the way.

Other routes include multiple twists and turns worthy of a suspenseful spy novel. But lets walk through them. If you happen to miss a turn, its probably best to go back the way you came and try again. Youd be surprised where a random

turn could take you.

Lets say youre in Ranchos de Taos (south of Taos) and youre heading for points northwest and you want to skip town altogether take State Road 240, by the Ranchos post ofce, and drive 2.35 miles until you reach the stop sign, where youll turn right onto Lower Ranchitos Road. Drive .38 miles and take a left turn onto Blueberry Hill Road; another ve miles will get you to U.S. 64, just west of the Old Blinking Light, which is not a blinking light anymore (its a stoplight, confused yet?). However, the Blinking Light is still the local vernacular referring to the intersection of U.S. 64, State Road 522 and State Road 150. From here you can head west to the Ro Grande Gorge bridge, northwest to Questa, or north to Arroyo Seco and Taos Ski Valley.

ARTS & CULTURE

TAKING THE BACKROADS

BY MEL A. JAMES

The shortcuts of Taos



EXPERIENCETAOS IN P ICTURES

Its not the worlds tallest or longest bridge. But the view is incomparable. And if you visit, its purpose has at least partly been served. The Ro Grande Gorge Bridge, its construction completed 50 years ago, was pushed largely as a means of boosting tourism throughout Northern New Mexico. Gov. Jack Campbell, it has been suggested, was elected largely on a campaign pledge to build the bridge and complete U.S. 64. The dream was to open up El Norte as an outdoorsmans paradise and vacation destination for a motoring public eager to explore the American West. U.S. 64 may not be synonymous with road trip in the same way as Route 66 or the Pacic Coast Highway but the bridge and gorge below have become a must-see for visitors to New Mexico, even if they dont drive any further west than the rest stop.

NORTHERN NEW MEX ICO H I S TORY THE TAOS GORGE BR IDGE S 50TH ANN IVERSARY

Photographer Steven Bundy says, The east view from the Gorge Bridge overlook presents visitors and photographers alike with a scene of the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains that rise over 6,000 feet above the top rim of a 600-foot deep river created gash in the earth. A similar scene anywhere else in the world would be hard to nd. First-time visitors are always awestruck with the grandeur.

FACTS: Days before the

bridge opened, The Taos News published a story on

Bridge Figures: Things Not Seen. It noted the following about the bridge:

600 feet elevation above the Ro Grande

1,280 feet in length, approximately a quarter mile

The bridge is technically a three-span steel continous-deck truss structure with a concrete-lled

steel-grid deck

Steven Bundy



If youre in Ranchos, but your destination is in El Prado (north end of Taos), then follow the above directions until Blueberry Hill, but instead of turning, stay on Lower Ranchitos for two miles, where you will turn left onto Upper Ranchitos. Use caution on this turn; the oncoming trafc is coming toward you on a sharp curve. Drive another 1.6 miles and take a right at the stop sign. From here its only .4 miles until you reach Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of Cids Food Market.

Want to end your route downtown? Then stay on Lower Ranchitos, which will lead you directly to Camino de la Placita which, the reader may recall, runs right behind the Plaza.

Another way to get to the heart of town without as much trafc would be to take State Road 585, also called the bypass (also Paseo del Caon East), which is meant to transport folks heading northeast out of town. From State Road 68/Paseo del Pueblo Sur, drive 2.2 miles, where this road ends in a T at U.S. 64. Take a right to head to Angel Fire or go left and nd yourself on historic Kit Carson Road. Another 2.4 miles and youre at Taos Plaza. This route isnt really a shortcut; as a matter of fact, its rather a wide berth, but it does take you around the occasional trafc melee.

Some say there really are no shortcuts in

Taos. More accurately, one could refer to them as avoidance routes, or evasion courses. When taking backroads, you could encounter more potholes, loose cows or horses, or even perhaps some folks stopped in the middle of the road just to chat. And especially for these reasons, you should follow the posted speed limits.

These detours allow you to see other views of Taos and affords more photo opportunities for the shutterbug. It might even slow you down, but thats the Taos way of life. And if you get lost, put down the GPS (notoriously unreliable in these parts) and ask a local.


Katharine Egli

Camino de La Placita, which wraps around the back side of Taos Plaza, provides an alternative route for travelers hoping to avoid the sometimes congested main thoroughfare of Paseo del Pueblo Sur and Paseo del Pueblo Norte.


ARTS & CULTURE

COPS ON BIKES Pedaling on patrol, Taos police ofcers connect with summer crowds in Historic District

During the school year, Henry Snchez is the resource ofcer for the Taos Municipal District. But once school lets out, Snchez dons a different kind of police uniform bike shorts.

Snchez is the designated bike patrol ofcer for the Taos Police Department. However, he is not the only bike patroller. Others hop on their police bikes on an as-needed basis for special events of which there are a lot during the summer.

But Snchez is the daily ofcer. He patrols the Taos Historic District, which is a one-mile radius,

and gives a lot of focus to Historic Taos Plaza.

I have been doing this for six years. Once school lets out, I do it everyday until the second week in August when school starts, Snchez says.

In addition to his daily patrol, Snchez is assigned for all special events, whether that means late nights or early mornings. For example, he patrols until 8 p.m. on Thursday nights for the Taos Plaza Live free outdoor concerts. And for the Taos Farmers Market, Snchez starts his patrol at 6 a.m. on Saturday mornings.

The Taos Police Department provides Snchez with a highly visible ofcial police uniform that includes bike shorts, as well as bike shoes, bike helmet, and bike gloves.

His bike is a Specialized Hard Rock that has been specially outtted with lights and a siren on the handlebar. In his saddlebag, he keeps stickers (for kids), tickets, and a note pad and pen.

Ive had to use the lights and siren. For the Fiestas parade, there was a ght. The lights and siren were pretty effective in getting through the crowd, he says.

BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Tina Larkin

Ofcer Henry Snchez on his trusty bike and ofcer Jim Black in the background.



Angel Fire Living.

Ballou Dawg F U R N I T U R E

57 Flamingo RoadAngel Fire 505.504.1873

balloudawg.com

Quality American Furniture

Ray Renfroe


What Snchez loves most about the job is the interaction with people. He says residents and visitors just love seeing cops on bikes.

Police ofcers are more approachable on bikes than they are sitting in their car with the window rolled up, he says. I have met so many awesome people.

For example, last year he met a couple from Australia. They invited Snchez to go mountain biking on his day off. They headed up to Taos Ski Valleys 2 -mile advanced mountain bike ow trail, The Berminator.

A side benet to the job is that Snchez gets lots of fresh air and exercise.

But dont get me wrong, the days are really hot. It can be like 93 degrees out and I am wearing a full uniform with bulletproof vest, says Snchez.

While cycling around town, his belt alone weighs 15 to 20 pounds with weapon, ashlight, and handcuffs.

The bike patrol ofcers are on the same radio frequency as the vehicle patrols. One time during a Taos Plaza Live concert, a call came in that a little girl was missing. Taos Plaza

Live typically draws a large crowd of families, residents, and visitors.

I am so mobile and quick on the bike. I spotted her in no time. She had just gotten separated from her family, Snchez says.

Snchez, who grew up in Taos, credits local businesses with keeping him in good shape to do his job. Gearing Up and Taos Cyclery are the two local bike shops that help out with service and repairs. And he takes a spin class at the Northside Fitness Center.

That class keeps me in shape during the winter, he says.

Being a bike patrol ofcer requires a lot more than just having a bike. Snchez took the Law Enforcement Bicycle Association certication course in Farmington. The one-week course included a written exam and plenty of physically demanding tests.

The course teaches ofcers how to efciently dismount their bike in case they need to tackle someone; different techniques on how to ride through big crowds; and how to use the bike as a tool.

Joining ofcers from other New Mexico counties, the course instructor led Snchez on rides through the streets and parks, and on

mountain trails. The ofcers had to demonstrate their prociency in climbing and descending stairs, rocks, and hills. All told, they rode 25 to 35 miles a day during the certication course.

Even obstacle courses were set up in the parking lot. The participants were challenged to come to a stop sign without having to put their feet down.

There was a lot of balancing and technique. Im glad I took it. Now I show the other guys, says Snchez.


Tina Larkin

Ofcer Henry Snchez and ofcer Jim Black on patrol in Taos Historic District.

POLICE OFFICERS ARE MORE APPROACHABLE ON BIKES THAN THEY ARE SITTING IN THEIR CAR WITH THE WINDOW ROLLED UP, HE SAYS. I HAVE MET SO MANY AWESOME PEOPLE. OFFICER HENRY SANCHEZ

THE TAOS NEWS



May 28 Sept. 3Taos Plaza LiveEvery Thursday night (6-8pm), all summer long. The Taos County Chamber of Commerce brings the best of Taos' musicians to the Taos Plaza stage. Free and kid- friendly, for full concert schedule, visit taoschamber.com or call (575) 751-8800

May 29 31Music on the MesaCome to Taos Mesa Brewing the last weekend in May for Music on the Mesa, a three-day music festival featuring some of the biggest names in Americana music, including Justin Townes Earle, Turnpike Troubadours and Jamestown Revival, to name a few. For tickets and more information, visit taosmusiconthemesa.com.

June 4 27Taos Opera Institute FestivalTaos Opera Institute takes some of the most distinguished faculty and up-and-coming young professionals from around the country to teach and learn at Taos Ski Valley. A series of operatic and classical music concerts will take place in a variety of venues throughout Northern New Mexico. For a full schedule of events, visit taosoi.org or call (575) 740-6431

June 13River & Brews Blues FestivalRed River hosts its sixth annual River & Brews Blues Fest, courtesy of the Red River Chamber of Commerce. Bring your blankets and lawn chairs and enjoy the tunes at the bottom of the slopes of Red River Ski Area. Visit redriver.org or call (575) 754-2366

June 21 Aug. 9Taos School of MusicThe 53rd season of Taos School of Music will include a full slate of concerts and seminars, featuring Borromeo String Quartet, Robert McDonald and Michael Tree, the Brentano String Quartet and Thomas Sauer. Young Artist concerts will be held throughout the summer at the Taos Community Auditorium and the Hotel St. Bernard. For season details and ticket information, visit taosschoolofmusic.com

June 27 28Taos Solar Music Festival

The Taos Solar Music Festival is back in Kit Carson Park this year for a full weekend of music, including John Butler Trio, Kongos, Rixton, The Wallowers and Rodrigo y Gabriela. For tickets and information, visit solarmusicfest.com.

Aug. 21 Sept. 6Music from Angel FireMusic from Angel Fire returns for its 32nd summer festival, with the theme of Made in America. The festival celebrates American composers and music, as well as international composers that were inspired by the United States or wrote special works while living here. David Ludwig is the 2015 composer-in-residence and Alyssa Weinberg is the Young Artist composer-in-residence. Visit musicfromangelre.org or call (575) 377-3233

Sept. 10 12Michael Hearne's Big Barn DanceHearne's 13th event moves into town! With construction at Taos Ski Valley, the Big Barn Dance will call Kit Carson Park in the town of Taos home this year. A full lineup has yet to be announced, but should be available later in the summer at michaelhearne.com/bigbarndance. Past years have included some of the most respected names in traditional country, Americana, and folk music.

Sept. 25 27Music on the RocksVisit Sipapu for an all-day event featuring the 40th annual Arts and Crafts Fair, and music from local and regional acts. Enjoy the beer garden, artists booths and food and beverage vendors. For more information, visit sipapunm.com.

ARTS & CULTURE

2015 MUSIC FESTIVALS & CONCERTS

Tina Larkin

Fans enjoy a previous years Taos Solar Music Festival.

A Night on the Town

The Taos area has a number of restaurants, bars and dance venues that feature live music. Check Tempo

magazine in The Taos News for a weekly calendar of events, available in print or

online at taosnews.com/calendar.

For a list of popular venues check out discovertaos.com.


tastebreakfast burritosTHE STAR OF EVERY NEW MEXICO MORNING

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 79Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 79Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 79

TAOS DINER The Charles $9.95 (shown)is big boy weighed in at almost two pounds (seriously, I took a scale) and is not for the faint of stomach. A massive our tortilla embraces eggs, home fries, pinto beans, bacon and cheddar-jack cheese, then its smothered in red or green chile and topped with cheddar-jack and feta cheeses, and diced tomatoes. Believe it or not, the feta cheese is what sends this baby into orbit. e tangy bite of the cheese combined with the chile (I highly recommend going Christmas red and green on this one) is heavenly. taosdiner.com

MARY JANES HOME COOKING Chorizo breakfast burrito with red chile $5is stand-alone trailer at 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (across from the Whitten Inn) is a locals favorite and consistently picked as Taos best roadside food stand. For good reason. Mary Janes whips up fast, quality fare at a reasonable price. While its impossible to go wrong on the Mary Janes menu, the chorizo breakfast burrito oers a heaping helping of chorizo (minced, seasoned sausage) swimming with plenty of gooey cheese. Red chile is a must. (575) 770-1171

MICHAELS KITCHENBreakfast Enchiladas $9.55Ok, so technically this isnt a burrito. But the breakfast enchiladas are novel enough that theyre worth a mention on this list. Michaels enjoys a loyal following of visitors and Taoseos alike just check out the line spilling on to the sidewalk at 304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte on any given summer Sunday. Michaels corn tortilla enchiladas are lled with eggs, smothered in chile and served with pinto beans. By going the enchilada route, Michaels managed to pair corn tortillas with eggs and chile. e result is heavenly. michaelskitchen.com

MANTES CHOW CARTBacon breakfast burrito with green chile $5.79At one time an actual chow cart, Mantes is now housed in a real building at 402 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. Its a locally owned joint dishing up fast food standards with plenty of New Mexican specialties. One thing sets the Mantes breakfast burrito apart from the rest the crunch. Mantes folds in a crispy layer of hash brown-like potatoes that adds a special oomph to this one. Mantes is always fast, and the drive-though is especially handy if youre in a hurry. (575) 758-3632

BLAKES LOTABURGER Lota Breakfast Burrito $3.75It might be the cheapest option on our list, but New Mexico fast food joint Blakes Lotaburger whips up a respectable breakfast burrito. With one location on the north side and another on the south, Lotaburger is a good choice if youre digging for quarters under your front seat but cant get the thought of a hot, spicy burrito out of your head. Lotaburger oers all the standard meat and chile options. At this price, why not experiment and get a couple for the road? northside (575) 758-4987; southside (575) 758-4771

Taos Diners two pound burrito, The Charles, smothered in both red and green chile, photo by Katharine Egli.

In Taos, the breakfast burrito is without a doubt the universal breakfast of champions. Burritos start with a base of eggs and a tortilla, but the sky is the limit when it comes to combinations of meat, cheese, chile and other

xins. Heres a quick list of must-try breakfast burritos, from the fast-and-no-frills, to a heavy weight behemoth that might knock you out before your day even begins.

By J.R. Logan

TREAT YOURSELF TO THE FINEST

EXQUISITE STEAKS, FRESH SEAFOOD, HAND-CRAFTED COCKTAILS

OPEN DAILY 11:30 AM - 9:00 PM . 575.751.3020146 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE . MARTYRS-STEAKHOUSE.COM

LUNCH . DINNER . SUNDAY BRUNCH . PRIVATE PARTIESSummer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com 81


ESKES BREW PUB AND EATERY106 DesGeorges Lane In the heart of downtown Taos but away from the hustle and bustle, the picnic tables on Eskes patio are a great place to spend an evening. Eskes brews its own beer (including one made with green chile) and serves lunch and dinner with a menu that includes plenty of pub favorites as well as a couple surprises. e beer-battered club sandwich is a solid choice, but if youre looking for something truly down home, head over on a Sunday night for the Blue Plate Special, when Eske's sta oers traditional meals like Southwestern meatloaf or southern fried chicken. eskesbrewpub.com

THE BURGER STAND AT TAOS ALE HOUSE401 Paseo del Pueblo NorteWhen the Kansas-based Burger Stand teamed up with Taos Ale House, it brought bar food options in the center of town to a new level. e Ale House has several small batch brews on tap, and the kitchen oers a variety of specialty burgers, dogs, salads and more. e menus got a little something for everyone, but if you want to share a few brews and have a quick snack, order a basket of bourbon bacon cheddar fries a heaping serving of fresh fries smothered in bourbon cheese sauce and sprinkled with applewood smoked bacon. taosburgersandbeer.com

THE ANACONDA BAR 317 Kit Carson Road Looking for something a little more sophisticated? e Anaconda Bar at El Monte Sagrado oers fancy cocktails and an impressive bar menu that aims to satisfy a more discerning palate. If youre going for appetizers, get the Spanish charcuterie and cheese plate a blend of ne Spanish cheeses and exquisite hams that might be the closest thing youll nd to authentic tapas in Taos. If youre going for a meal, its hard to beat the grilled trout tacos served with a cilantro sauce, avocado creme fraiche, black beans and poblano slaw. elmontesagrado.com/dining/lounge


OTHER GREAT HAUNTS FOR DRINKS & EATS:ABES CANTINA Get a shot of tequila and have a homemade burrito with the locals. Downtown Arroyo Seco. (575) 776-8643

ADOBE BAR AT THE HISTORIC TAOS INNThe living room of Taos, with famous Cowboy Buddha margaritas and giant plates of nachos. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte taosinn.com

KTAOS SOLAR BAREnjoy the kid-friendly back yard with great views and good brews (and a full bar), and a full menu of tasty treats and entrees. 9 State Road 150 ktaos.com

KYOTE CLUBJoin chef Ky Quintanilla and company for adventurous drinks and classy small-bite options like parmesan polenta fries and semolina crusted calamari. 330A Paseo del Pueblo Sur kyoteclub.com

THE GORGE BAR & GRILLEnjoy tasty cocktails and a nice beer selection with causal dining on the patio overlooking Taos Plaza. 103 East Plaza thegorgebarandgrill.com

THE TREEHOUSE BAR & LOUNGE AT LAMBERTSCome to the Treehouse for 2:30-5:30 p.m. happy hour and a full bar menu.123 Bent Street lambertsoftaos.com

5 STAR BURGERSA great happy hour for food and beer and quality burgers all the time. 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur 5starburgers.com

A buger and fries pairs well with a beer at The Alley Cantina, photo by Tina Larkin.

mmm...



818 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE #C, TAOS 7AM-3PM CLOSED SUNDAYS

330A PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR | TAOS, NEW MEXICO | (575) 751-3302kyoteclub.com

TAOS' HOTNEW SPOT

MIXOLOGYFOODTAPASENTERTA INMENTL IVE MUS IC


Food trucks are enjoying a surge of popularity in big cities, with events that draw thousands of people and world-class chefs getting fancy with gourmet

oerings. Youll see trucks that serve a downtown oce building at lunch and then that same truck serving bar patrons at night.

e food truck style in Taos is a bit dierent, but this town isnt the kind to follow trends anyway. What you nd here tends to be more traditional, with families passing down recipes. eres also a Do-It-Yourself aesthetic that provides a way for an up-and-coming business to test the waters. Trucks here tend to also be more stationary. You wont nd them zipping around town what youll nd instead are

mini restaurants in sheds or in carts on wheels. e only dierence is that you order at a counter and you eat outside (or take it to go). Frequently these outdoor seating areas will have a charming atmosphere, with fencing, picnic tables and shady umbrellas.

e key to eating good food when traveling is to eat where the locals eat. And a lot of locals in the Taos area eat at food trucks. Youll nd Taoseos grabbing a breakfast burrito at one end of town and a Frito pie for lunch at the other. One of the appeals is that the price is right and so are the portions.

Want to get an idea of how popular a particular truck can be? en ask nearly anyone whos lived here longer than 10 years about the Burrito Wagon and they are likely to reply in a wistful

tone about how much they loved the #7 or maybe the #3, whatever happened to be their favorite. e Burrito Wagon may be gone, but other favorite trucks have gone on to become popular stand-alone restaurants Mantes Chow Cart, El Gamal and Leonels all started as humble food trucks.

e majority of the food trucks in Taos feature Northern New Mexico cooking. Yes, there is a dierence between Mexican and New Mexican food, with the main distinction being the use of the ever-revered chile pepper and cheese, on everything. Denitely try our local vittles, but dont limit your choices to just New Mexican, as there are other enticing avors to be had, so be adventurous.

taste

By Mel A. James

food trucks OF TAOS

A La Carts Kraut Dog and Chicago Dog, photo by Tina Larkin.

FOOD TRUCK/ CART RUNDOWN A few tips as you explore what our food stands have to offer: Not all of them offer credit card services, so bring cash and make it a breakfast or lunch stop, since most of them close in the evening.

TAOS CHICHARRON BURRITONew MexicanSpecialty: Chicharron burrito, what else?1300 block of Paseo Sur, west side of road

TAQUERIA EL TORITOMexicanSuggestion: Carnitas tortaValerio Plaza, 1800 block of Paseo Sur, east side of road

MARY JANES HOME COOKINGNew MexicanBragging rights: Best of Taos winner, 9 years running600 block of Paseo Sur, west side of road

LIZZYSNew MexicanTradition: This family has been feeding Taos for generationsSuper Save parking lot, 500 block of Paseo, east side of road

A LA CARTWorld Street FoodUnique: A variety of avors from around the world600 block of Paseo Norte, north side of the road

ELMASMexican & AmericanSurprising: The humble exterior belies terric cooking1200 block of Paseo Norte, in El Prado

FRESHIES JUICESFresh juice blendsTaos Plaza

GREAT NOODLESAsian/ThaiJohn Dunn House Shops

HOT DOG LADYAmericanTaos Plaza or John Dunn House shops

Photos on opposite page, clockwise from top left: Great Noodles! owner Marshall Thompson at the grill, photo by Tina Larkin; Customers wait for orders at Taqueria El Torito, photo by Tina Larkin; Mary Janes Home Cooking, photo by Katharine Egli; Street food from A La Cart, photo by Tina Larkin; Freshies Juices prepares for the Taos Farmers Market crowd, photo by Tina Larkin; Made to order tacos from Taqueria El Torito, photo by Tina Larkin.


taste

By Cody Hooks

land of enchanted food THE FARMERS MARKETS OF TAOS

Before 2010, Johanna and Chris Lee operated a little store-front post oce in Clovis, New Mexico, not but 10 miles west of the Texas state line. Chris also ran a screen printing shop

making T-shirts and cards, but he nally got fed up with the harsh chemicals of that trade. And the harsh chemicals of commercial food.

Now, the couple and their two kids work the land at Llanobilly Ranch, their four-year-old vegetable and animal farm in the Peasco Valley.

I was feeling kind of disconcerted from our food and these skills it takes to survive o the land. Farming just seems like the most honest

thing Ive ever done, says Chris Lee.

With Jicarita Mountain and the Truchas Peaks just right outside the door, their growing ock of laying hens move about over eight acres worth of pasture in a chicken-tractor. And one and a half acres is devoted solely to growing vegetables that, come May, the Lees will sell at the Taos Farmers Market.

For a community as small as Taos, the farmers market is one of the most vibrant in the state.

eres something about the variety and the quality of food vendors are bringing, Lee said. Every Saturday morning, Taos historic Plaza

lls up with over 70 farmers and hundreds of customers, locals and visitors alike.

Aside from being one of the biggest markets in New Mexico in revenue going directly to farmers, Lee said it has an energy all its own because everyone has something dierent to oer. Growing at 8,300 feet on Llanobilly Ranch, the Lees can bring snap peas and spinach in the heat of summer, while growers from south of the Ro Grande Gorge drive up to Taos with bushels of fruit and chiles.

But the farmers market isnt just a place to get your food. Its a place to nd community and a shared passion of growing humbly o the land.

Llanobilly Ranch foremen Johanna and Chris Lee with their daughter Cora on his shoulders, right, walk with ranch hands Almo and Navssikaa Who holding their son Owdin, left, on a "harvest day" last summer, photo by Tina Larkin.



Its fun to be able to talk about gardening, to talk about dierent varieties of food and what does well, he said. When the

carrots are crisp and beautiful, people want to know how to get their own garden to do as well. And when bugs descend on crops around the county, they ask the Lees how to handle it. eres so much generosity, he said.

As for Llanobilly Farm, now in its fth season, the Lees are still learning as they go. A few pigs were farm residents for a while, until they stopped listening to the fencing. And Chris Lee is still working microbial life back into the soil from the rst overzealous tilling they did several years ago.

TAOS FARMERS MARKETWhile the Saturday morning

Taos Farmers Market is surely the biggest in the area, its denitely not unique. Taos has farmers markets up and down the county, almost every day of the week so

your farm-to-table experience.

BACK PORCH FARMERS MARKET

e Back Porch Farmers Market happens on the back portal of the Taos Food Co-op, just o Paseo del Pueblo Norte, north of the Plaza. And its about as casual as its name. Locals who grow more food than their family can eat and put up come to this market to share their bounty at an aordable price.

TAOS FARM STAND MARKETFarmers from around the county

cant sell everything they grow all at one market sometimes those carrots, beets, cabbages and peas are ready to harvest in the middle of the week. ats Mother Nature for you. Food at the Farm Stand Market is sold on consignment to make healthy, organic food available for the masses.

THE HONDO MARKET e Hondo Market is a gem in

the small community of Arroyo Hondo (about 10 miles north of

town) where many families still have small gardens and pastures fed with acequia water. e standard fare of vegetables and goat cheese are almost always available, as well as the occasional treat like smoked trout.

RED WILLOW FARMERS MARKET

Youth are the focus at the Red Willow Farmers Market located at Taos Pueblo. rough internship and entrepreneurial programs, young people grow, care for and harvest all the food raised on the tribes ancestral land. Plus, a farm store boasts bison meats, locally made soaps and all sorts of pickles and put-up veggies, as well as blue corn meal for tortillas.

You can nd Chris and Johanna Lee at the Taos Farmers Market starting the second week of May. Stop by, say hi and see what bounty theyre growing in the northern llanos of the Land of Enchantment.


MARKET REPORTS FARMERS MARKETSaturdays, 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.Historic Taos Plaza, TaosMay 9 to Octobertaosfarmersmarket.org

BACK PORCH FARMERS MARKETTuesdays and Thursdays, 2 - 6 p.m., June to October314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Suite E, Taos

TAOS FARM STAND MARKETTuesdays and Thursdays, 2 - 7 p.m., (summer)Call (575) 758-8731 to conrm1021 Salazar Road, Taos

THE HONDO MARKETWednesdays, Parking lot at Midtown Lounge, 680 State Road 522, Arroyo HondoLate May to October

RED WILLOW FARMERS MARKETWednesday, 10 am. - 5 p.m.885 Star Road, Taos PuebloYear-round

Want more? Check out The Taos News Green Taos publication at discovertoas.com


facebook.com/vapetaos575.751.7074

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featuring


CASA GALLINA: RUSTIC CHARM MEETS COMFORT

When guests arrive at Casa Gallina for a stay in one of its ve cozy casitas, they can expect to be welcomed by a bottle of wine and a tray of ham, cheese, olives and other hors-d'oeuvres prepared by proprietor Richard Spera, who has created a charming nest for the visitors.

Casa Gallina is an artisan inn, which offers Fair Trade-certied products like coffee, soaps and chocolates. The kitchen is stocked with USDA certied organic ingredients and local products, and the grounds are often watered by

a nearby acequia.

The property is only a ve-minute drive to Taos Plaza.

All the casitas boast splendid views of Taos Mountain. They are decorated with art, antiques, and furnishings by local artists a few pieces are also available for sale. They all have a fully equipped kitchen and a Kiva replace or wood burning stove.

Each casita has a wireless laptop computer, high-speed WiFi, satellite TV, DVD player, and a music and speaker system, said Spera. This is indeed a pastoral setting but youll still be connected to the world.

Guests are encouraged to pick from the herb and vegetable gardens carrot, celery, spinach and many other fresh veggies will be available this summer. There are strawberry and raspberry patches and two apple orchards.

LAS GALLINAS DE LA CASA THE HENS OF THE HOUSE

The girls (the hens that lend its name to the property) inhabit an ample chicken coop in the yard. They provide eggs every morning in exchange, they are happy to feast on scraps offered by the guests.

Leftovers from the restaurants are their favorites, Spera said.

LODGING

TWO SMALL INNS CHANNEL THE TRUE SPIRIT OF TAOS

BY TERESA DOVALPAGE

Courtesy of Richard Spera

A cozy deck at Casa Gallina.



Because we know you want to live here.

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An idyllic Getaway full of Romance & Charm

Situated in the heart of the Historic District and nestled in a quiet Avenue with peace and privacy,

this charming Bed and Breakfast is the perfect place to escape to and relax after exploring Taos

Plaza, countless galleries and local Museums peppered throughout the downtown area.

309 Juanita Lane Taos 800.645.4803 or 575.758.8164 laposadadetaos.com


DREAMCATCHER BED & BREAKFASTOur Taos Bed and Breakfast Inn sits nestled in a serene,

wooded area just a 10 minute walk from Historic Taos Plaza which is the center of our lovely town. Feast on our European breakfasts.

Adventures await you in every season. 416 La Lomita Rd. 575-758-0613 dreambb.com.

HACIENDA DEL SOL Taos Mountain is our backyard.Eleven beautifully

appointed rooms and suites with spacious gardens backing onto Taos Pueblo. Outdoor hot tub.

www.taoshaciendadelsol.com575-758-0287 866-333-4459

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LA POSADA DE TAOS BED & BREAKFAST... A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER!

La Posada de Taos is a historic adobe inn just two blocks from the Taos Plaza. As the first B&B in Taos, La Posada is unique among the towns small Inns.

The home has stayed true to its roots as a Pueblo-style Hacienda. The six guest rooms are each decorated in a style true to Taos

& original artwork adorns the walls throughout the home.309 Juanita Lane, Taos 800-645-4803 www.laposadadetaos.com

ADOBE & PINES INN HISTORIC BED & BREAKFAST

Fireplaces Whirlpools Three Course Breakfast Spa ServicesPrivate Hot Tubs Entrances Baths

12 Award of Excellence TripAdvisor Best of SouthwestBedandBreakfast.com575-751-0947 855-828-7872 www.adobepines.com


A B&B STAY IS THE BEST WAY TO EXPERIENCE TAOS

Choose from 16 outstanding Bed & Breakfast inns, each providing an authentic New Mexican charm ranging from rustic to artistically inspired. Find the perfect place from which to

discover Taos. www.taosbandbinns.comTAOS ASSOCIATION OFBED AND BREAKFAST INNS

CASA BENAVIDESLuxury downtown Historic Inn 3/4 block from Plaza. Fireplaces, AC, wireless internet in lobby, extensive art collection, patios, balconies, hot tubs,

heated jet tubs, KILLER BREAKFAST and lovely afternoon tea & desserts. Voted Best B&B in Taos 2014 137 Kit Carson Rd. 800-552-1772 www.taos-casabenavides.com


The ock started with just six chickens and keeps getting larger each spring. There are now more than 30 happy and healthy hens in addition to Big Daddy, an Araucana / Rhode Island red rooster.

THE STUDIO A COMMUNAL SPACESpera recently opened a studio at Casa

Gallina, a stunningly beautiful space with a hardwood oor. It can hold between 10 and 20 people.

We had been having more gatherings and retreats here so I realized that I needed a communal space to do group work in, Spera said. Every week we use it for tango classes and yoga sessions. It also makes Casa Gallina a great destination to host small workshops or retreats.

He will be hosting yoga, meditation and women retreats, as well as tango workshops. In the meantime, complimentary yoga classes are offered to all the Casa Gallina guests, courtesy of the house and Shree Yoga Studio.

Casa Gallina is located at 609/613 Callejon(575) 758-2306; casagallina.net

PALACIO DE MARQUESA A HOMAGE TO REMARKABLE WOMEN OF TAOS

Palacio de Marquesa, formerly Casa de

las Chimeneas, is just an easy walk from Taos Plaza.

Each one of its eight rooms has a unique identity. They were named after famous women artists who once lived in Northern New Mexico Martha Reed, Georgia OKeeffe, Gene Kloss, Mabel Dodge Lujan, Agnes Martin, Dorothy Brett, and Millicent Rogers, who has two rooms dedicated in her honor the Socialite Suites I and II.

The iconic ladies became the inspiration for interior designer Adriana Long, who, while keeping the inns Southwestern charm and original New Mexico art, also added contemporary touches like walk-in marble showers, heated oors, and at screen TVs to every room.

We offer our guests the best of two worlds, said Palacio de Marquesa resident general manager Chad Ozment. We also have a beautifully landscaped high-desert garden, with trees, fountains and plenty of places to sit and relax.

Palacio de Marquesa is a romantic getaway. It was chosen among the 25 best honeymoon resorts under $200 a night by Destination Wedding Magazine.

Guests get to enjoy a gourmet, made-to-order breakfast in the community room or delivered to

their room in a basket.

Spa services like Reiki, Swedish and therapeutic massages are available too.

In case you are traveling with four-legged companions, Palacio de Marquesa is also a pet-friendly place.

LOCAL TREASURESPalacio de Marquesa is in partnership with

several local businesses. Through the Local Treasures program, guests get a discount coupon card good for 15 percent off many restaurants, like The Gorge restaurant and Martyrs Steakhouse, as well as shops, galleries and other attractions.

They also offer a New Mexico resident discount and a number of packages.

Our Museum of Taos Package includes tickets to ve museums and allows visitors to explore the towns rich cultural past, Ozment said. For those who love the great outdoors, Lunch with a Llama Wilderness Experience is a must have. The llama carries all the gear and a gourmet lunch is prepared right on the trek. Whatever you decide to do, here at Palacio de Marquesa we will help you create lasting memories of your stay in Taos.

Palacio de Marquesa is located at 405 Cordoba Road. (575) 758-4777 and (855) 846-8267; marquesataos.com


Courtesy Heritage Hotels & Resorts/Jeff Caven Resort Hotel Photography

The Socialite Suite I, named for Millicent Rogers, at Palacio de Marquesa.


The HistoricJOHN DUNN HOUSE SHOPS

20 friendly shops line a beautiful pedestrian walkway linking Bent Street and the historic Taos Plaza.

www.johndunnshops.com

Locally Owned... Globally Unique

EXPLORE

CREATE

PLAY

NW Corner of Taos Plaza. Look for the yellow duck.

(575) 751 1402 twirltaos.org Open daily 10am - 6pm

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TOP 1

5 SPO

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FOR K

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EXPERIENCEA LANDMARK OF FA I TH SAN F RANC ISCO DE AS S M I SS ION CHURCH

FACTS: The churchs

construction was overseen by the Franciscans and features

massive adobe buttresses and two front-facing bell towers

The original doors of the church were replaced in 1967 with accurate replicas, as well as 60

Documents

Discover Taos - Summer Visitors Guide 2015