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Great Lakes: Great Gardening.New York Sea Grant Inst., Albany, N.Y.Cornell Univ., Ithaca, N.Y. Cooperative ExtensionService.; Environmental Protection Agency,Washington, D. C.; National Oceanic and AtmosphericAdministration (DOC), Rockville, Md. National SeaGrant Program.; State Univ. of New York, Albany.Research Foundation.Feb 93NA90AA-D-SG078-A/EEP-333p.

New York Sea Grant Program, 21 South Grove Street,East Aurora, NY 14052-2398 ($2; $1.25 for over 100copies).Guides General (050)

MF01/PCO2 Plus Postage.*Grounds Keepers; *Horticulture; Plant Propagation;*Soil Conservation; *Water PollutionGardening; *Gardens; *Great Lakes

This folder contains 12 fact sheets designed toimprove the quality of gardens near the Great Lakes. The titles are:(1) "Your Garden and the Great Lakes"; (2) "Organic Gardening"; (3)

"Fruit and Vegetable Gardening"; (4) "Composting Yard Wastes"; (5)

"Herbicides and Water Quality"; (6) "Watering"; (7) "Soil Erosion byWater"; (8) "Soil Fertility"; (9) "Pest Management"; (10)"Landscaping"; (11) "Attracting Birds. Naturally"; and (12) "Lawns."(MKR)

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U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATIONOffice of Educational Research and Improvement

EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES INFORMATIONCENTER (ERIC)

I This document has been reproduced asreceived I rom the person or organizationoriginating it.

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Points of view or opinions stated in this docu-ment do not necessarily represent officialOERI position or policy.

A publication of The ResearchFoundation of State Universityof New York pursuant to NationalOceanic and Atmospheric AdministrationAward No. NA90AA-D-SG078 AIEEP -3

New York Sea Grant

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Cornell ri United States EnvironmentalCooperative o Protection Agency Region II

4tExtension

Your Garden and the Great Lakes

Fact Sheet # 1

Coastal Waters Are the Heart of Our RegionWater quality in any area affects the quality of your

life. Industry, recreation, and even the wholesomenessof the fish you eat all depend on it. Streams, rivers, andstorm drains are direct connections from your yard toLake Ontario and Lake Erie. What you do in your yardcontributes to clean or polluted coastal andgroundwaters. Great Lakes: Great Gardening practicescan improve water quality while helping you maintain abetter garden.

Our Great Lakes Are in TroubleMany areas of the Great Lakes suffer from past and

present pollution. Efforts such as the federallysponsored Fish and Wildlife project are underway toclean up and protect Lakes Erie and Ontario.

We have long been aware of pollution from pointsources, such as factories and sewage treatment plants.We have recently become more aware of the threat ofnonpoint source pollution, such as storm water runoff.This is pollution created by many relatively small andwidespread sources. By themselves, each of thesesources may seem insignificant; but, added togetherthey pose a serious threat.

Garden Practices Affect Water QualityThere are hundreds of thousands of homes with

gardens in New York and Canada that potentiallycontribute runoff to Lakes Erie and Ontario. Each maycontribute a relatively small amount of runoffcontaining soil, chemicals, and fertilizers. They add upto a sizable problem. Nonpoint source pollution will be

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controlled only when individuals take responsibilityand make wise choices.

Everyone Lives in a WatershedWith each rain or snow, almost every square inch of

the region contributes to the water flow into Lakes Erieand Ontario. Rivers, streams, groundwater, gutters,storm and sanitary sewer systems, hills and bottomlandsare all part of the system.

Everyone Lives on a StreamWhether our stream is a natural channel or a

constructed one, such as a storm sewer, the effect is stillthe same. Eroding soil and the runoff or leaching offertilizers and chemicals have an impact on our lakes,streams, bays, and the Great Lakes. Most storm sewerwater drains into the Lakes or groundwater untreated.Even sewage treatment does not remove all pollutants.

Whatever is poured, spread, or sprayed on plants orthe ground can find its way into the Lakes orgroundwater. Just because a problem flows away fromthe property does not mean it is eliminated.

Great Lakes: Great GardeningThis is a program to integrate good gardening

practices with good water quality practices. The samesimple, practical techniques that improve the soil,beautify the landscape, and reduce maintenance timeand cost can also protect the quality of our water andthe Great Lakes. Great Lakes: Great Gardening notonly can add to the value of your property and thepleasure derived from it, but also contribute to a cleanerLake Erie and Lake Ontario.

REMEMBERThe key to Great Lakes: Great Gardening is to

reduce the amount of potential contaminants,fertilizers, and pesticides introduced into theenvironment and to minimize the amount of waterthat runs off your property.

For more information about Great Lakes: GreatGardening for both a better garden and a cleaner Lake,call or visit your local Cooperative Extension office.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

Great Lakes:Great Garden in

Organic Gardening

Fact Sheet # 2

In a time of increasing awareness of ecologicalproblems, organic gardening has engaged the attentionof home gardeners -- as a way of addressing both healthand environmental concerns. Organic gardeningpractices are quite simply good gardening practices.Our efforts to rebuild soil and handle insect and diseaseproblems in the least toxic way are not only the "rightthing to do" but also produce successful flower andvegetable gardens, and lawns. The homeowner'schoices about lawn care and gardening techniques dohave significant impact on soil, water, and wildlife.The average homeowner uses up to 10 times morechemicals per acre than farmers, so the organic route isappropriate to consider in our own backyards.

Protect Soil StructureSoil provides the basis for healthy plants and

gardeners spend much time building soil. Soil iscomposed of about 25% air, 25% water, and 50%organic matter, minerals, and living organisms. Protectthe soil. First, STOP--DON'T STEP ON THE SOIL.Soil compaction ruins the structure and the livingelements in soil, and takes years to correct. To avoidthis problem, improve garden layout and tillingpractices. Raised beds are a fine technique, whetherenclosed in boards or stone or simply formed by hoe orrake. Maintain permanent paths and practice shallowtilling to help soil structure and reduce the likelihood ofstirring up dormant weed seeds. Ideal organic gardensconsists of soil that is fluffy with organic matter, iskept permanently mulched, has permanent paths so thatsoil is never compacted, and needs no tilling.

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Organic gardening principles for GreatLakes Gardening include three elements:

Rebuild the Soil: Using soil withoutrebuilding it leads to poor soil structure,erosion, poor fertility, and added expenses fortopsoil and fertilizers. Organic gardenerssolve most soil problems by constantly addingorganic matter, including compost, grass orleaves, garden or kitchen waste, manure,newspaper, or green manures.

Use No Pesticides: Organic gardeners donot use herbicides or insecticides (with thepossible exceptions of some botanicalpoisons or sulfur- or copper-basedfungicides.) Reasons for pesticide avoidanceinclude concerns for groundwater, the healthof birds and other animals, foodcontamination, and protection of beneficialinsects which are an integral part of organicpest control.

Use No Synthetic Fertilizers: Most organicgardeners avoid synthetic fertilizers becauseof the concern for residual chemicals (salts),their effect on plant growth, and their negativeeffect on earthworms and other microbial life.

Add Organic MatterOrganic matter added to the soil helps improve soil

structure, increases the soil's ability to hold air andwater, and helps drainage. Organic matter also providesa home for helpful microorganisms and earthworms.Ideal soil consists of 20-25% humus (decomposedorganic matter), achieved by adding 6 in. of organicmatter per year. You may use any of the following:

Compost is the best single additive, as it offersall the benefits of organic matter in adecomposed form that plants can use --plus it hasthe additional ability to help fight some soil-borne diseases. Composting helps theenvironment too, by using up kitchen and yardwaste that might have been landfilled.

Kitchen scraps including eggshells, coffeegrounds, tea leaves, and chopped fruit andvegetable scraps can be added through compostor directly into the soil. (Exceptions are meat orfatty products): One method of adding these iscalled trench composting--putting the collectedscraps directly into the vegetable or flowergarden, into holes or trenches, and covering with6 inches of soil.

o Leaves, twigs and grass can be added directlyto garden soil , either by digging in or by sheet

composting--spreadingleaves or grass clippings onexposed soil as mulch, toblock weeds and retain soilmoisture during the growingseason and to decomposeduring the winter.

Newspaper, as well as computer paper, can beshredded into the compost or directly into thesoil to improve texture, aeration, or tilth, and toattract earthworms. Newspaper sheets are also aneffective mulch for blocking weeds early in theseason, and will later decompose. Avoid shinymagazine--style papers.

Animal manures: Horse, cow, pig, poultry, orother animal manures are excellent organicmaterial to add to any garden,

but should be aged beforedirect contact with plants.Horse manure especiallycontains many weed seeds,so mulch thoroughly or

compost it before adding to soil. Animalmanures mixed with bedding (straw, sawdust,etc.) are ideal for composting or spreading in thefall. Cat and dog wastes are not recommended.

Wood ashes may be used in small amounts,with the warning that wood ashes -- also knownas potash -- raise pH, causing the garden or lawnto become too alkaline.

Wood chips and sawdust are best used as mulchor in an overly nitrogenous compost. Whileorganic, these high carbon substancesdecompose too slowly to use directly in the soil(tying up nitrogen for too long duringdecomposition).

Green manures or cover crops are oftenunderutilized by home gardeners. A veryefficient way to blockweeds, enrich the soil,prevent erosion, attractbeneficial insects, andprevent compaction isto plant a cover cropin fall or whenever soilis bare. Choices includethe nitrogen fixing legumes such as alfalfa, peas,and beans particularly effective during thewarmer months and the grains or grasses such asbuckwheat, annual rye, winter rye, and red oryellow clover. A variation on the practice isintercropping, in which a cover crop is used

among other plants to block weeds, enrich soil.

Black plastic, while neither organic nor soilenhancing is often useful as a heat-attractingmulch which also retains moisture and killsweeds (especially when starting a new bed).

Improve Soil FertilityA healthy soil contains all the minerals, organic

matter, and microorganisms required to providenutrients in a form that plants can use. Plants neednitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium,magnesium, sulfur, and some minor nutrients, all ofwhich are provided naturally as minerals in the soil or

through the decomposition of organic matter.This decomposition is carried out by

microorganisms, insects, and earthworms.Our work as organic gardeners is to provide a

healthful environment for these creatures in the soil.

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This means that corrective measures or additionalfertilization are rarely needed.

In case of a nutrient deficiency, organic gardenersdo not choose synthetic fertilizers as the solution.Studies have found fewer earthworms present in soilfertilized with standard N-P-K synthetic fertilizers.Another reason is the concern for residual salts orchemicals reaching streams or groundwater. Organicgardeners also avoid the quick-release, nitrogen-richfertilizers especially because they tend to allow for"lazy" plants with poor root systems and weak topgrowth. This holds true for lawns as well, since overfedgrasses have no need for roots to penetrate the soil insearch of nutrients. The result is a lawn full of weakplants and frequently thatch build-up.

Organic fertilizers include manure, cottonseed meal,milorganite, and blood meal, all higher in slow-releasenitrogen, and the high-phosphorus fertilizers such asrock phosphate (slow-release) and fish emulsion(quick-release). Other fertilizers are available to meetparticular deficiencies, but a garden continuallyenriched with organic matter is likely to bewell-balanced and fertile.

Earthworms are the best source of soil fertility,adding typically 1/3 lb. of balanced N-P-K fertilizer perworm per year. In addition, earthworms aerate the soil,provide drainage, and decompose organic matter,including thatch. Gardeners can increase the wormpopulation by increasing organic soil content, usingfewer chemicals, tilling less or not at all, tillingshallower or when earthworms are less active (later infall, earlier in spring.)

Prevent Insect Pest ProblemsInsects are easily handled through prevention rather

than waiting for a large infestation. More than othergardeners, organic gardeners need to know the potentialpests, their life cycles, and natural predators in order towork with nature for a healthy garden. The optimumcondition is a yard or garden teeming with life: animals,birds, snakes, toads, insects, flowers, and crops alldependent on and complementary of one another. Infact, a minimum number of garden "pests" -- potatobugs, aphids, caterpillars, etc. -- are actually desired insuch a scheme, as they provide enough food to lure andmaintain a population of their natural predators. Whena pesticide is used, insect predators are usually killedalong with the target insect, so that future infestationshave no natural predator and the cycle of spraying mustbe perpetuated.

Organic gardeners preventive measures includethe following:

Row covers are cloths that cover such crops asbrassicas or cole crops to prevent egglaying orinsect attack (i.e., cabbage moths leading toworms on broccoli.) Note: covers are removedfor those plants that need pollination.

Cutworm collars--made of paper, tin foil,plastic, cans, or cups -- protect young transplantsfrom cutworm destruction.

Sticky traps and chemical lures, sometimesused in combination, contain pheromones (sexhormones). Food lures can also be used toattract and trap pests, such as the apple maggotor Japanese beetle. Note: placement is critical, asJapanese beetle traps can in fact lure a largepopulation to your garden if placed too close!

Timing of plantings can be planned to minimizethe damage of certain pests. For example, carrotmaggots may be prevented by planting carrots inJune rather than earlier, to avoid the insect's egglaying and emergence cycle. Knowledge is thekey to success in this area.

Sanitation is just good garden practice. Fallclean-up prevents the overwintering of insects,diseases, and weed seeds. Destroy, rather thancompost, plants that were diseased or infested. Inspring and summer, practice regular inspection,and hand-pick pests or destroy infected plantsearly.

Rotate Crops to Prevent DiseaseIn the home vegetable garden, crop rotation is

important for replenishing soil nutrients and preventingdisease. One approach is to rotate heavy and light"feeders" with cover crops (i.e.,corn, leafy vegetables,clover). Another choice, particularly when there hasbeen a problem, is to rotate plant groups according tosusceptibility to various insects or diseases (i.e., do notplant nightshade family members in the same spot yearafter year). Other rotational plans involve soil pH andvarious plant needs, so that potatoes, which like acidsoil, are grown before the soil is limed (which raisespH) in preparation for another crop.

Use Companion Planting and Beneficial InsectsSome plants - herbs, flowers, vegetables - work well

together for a variety of reasons, and organic gardeners

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take advantage of this compatibility,particularly when it helps with pestcontrol. Some plants repel pests andothers attract, house, or feed thebeneficial insects. There are somestructural and physical reasons for

companion plantings as well. For example, it's a goodidea to plant tall plants next to shade-lovers(broccoli/lettuce), deep-rooted plants next to shallowroots (carrots/lettuce), bulbs at different depths forsequential bloom (tulips/scilla), or climbing plantsleaning on tall supporting ones (pole beans/corn).

To repel insects, the onion/garlic/chives group isoften used, and is especially good in deterring aphids ordestructive beetles. Herbs planted among vegetables areeffective as repellents and confuse pests by scent. Testshave shown that some specific vegetable interplantings(such as beans with potatoes) help prevent attacks byinsects such as the Mexican bean beetles and Coloradopotato beetles. Avoid monocropping, and vary yourplantings to help prevent a large pest onslaught.

Beneficial insects need certainflowers and herbs for shelter or food,and water if they are to remain in ourgardens to prey upon pests.Some helpful plants include tansy,Queen Anne's lace, parsley, dill,yarrow, buckwheat, nasturtiums, andmembers of the daisy family. These

provide nectar, breeding and hiding placesfor insects such as spiders, ground beetles, ladybugs,lacewings, syrphid or hover flies, braconid or parasiticwasps, and many others. Generally, maintaining acontinuous flowering throughout the garden -- of bothdaisy - shaped and lacy flowers -- plus a ground-levelwater dish greatly encourages beneficial insects.

Help Wildlife to Help the GardenIn addition to our earthworm and insect

helpers, many animals provide pest control as well,especially toads, bats, birds, snakes, and lizards. Evenskunks and moles eat huge numbers of grubs and larvae(but may cause other problems). A bat can eat 1,000mosquitoes in one night, so a bat house is a greatinvestment. Providing water and food for birds insummer as well as winter is a smart way to reduce insectpest populations.Toads will remainnear the garden if youoffer water (in low dishes)and "houses" (inverted claypots with chipped edgesfor entry). Snakes will beencouraged by piles ofstones or wood. Generally, attracting a natural balanceof insect, bird, and animal life to your yard will result infewer insect pests and a rich and interestingenvironment.

For additional information on organic gardeningcontact your local Cooperative Extension office, yourlibrary, or Rodale Press.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper.

Written by: Sally Cunningham

Great Lakes:Gre t G rd in

Fruit and Vegetable Gardening

Fact Sheet # 3

Gardens Are a Wonderful Source of FoodWe all enjoy fresh garden-grown fruits and

vegetables. By using Great Lakes Gardeningtechniques, it is possible to produce top-quality crops,while maintaining soil fertility and protecting ournatural waters.I-

The Great Lakes Gardening approach to fruit andvegetable gardening is to select disease resistantspecies and properly plant them in well - preparedsites, and minimize the use of chemicals.

Where to PlantTo get the most out of a garden, it is important to

choose the right site. It should have a minimum of sixhours of direct sunlight, have well drained soil and beaway from shade-casting trees. Plant the garden on levelground, avoiding sloping areas which are likely toerode.

If the garden has to be on an incline, plant across theslope so that each row acts as a ridge to trap rainfall,reducing soil erosion.

What to PlantFruit and vegetable plants need adequate sunlight,

moisture, space, air, soil temperature, pH, and fertility.A plant living in less than optimum conditions will notbe as healthy as a plant growing under ideal conditions.Selecting varieties suited to your area and caring forthem properly means better plant health and reducedmaintenance. Check with a Cooperative Extensionoffice for a list of recommended varieties. Healthierplants mean:

more food from the gardenless garden workless reliance on pesticides to deal with insectsand diseases that take advantage of weak plantsless potential for pollution and erosion

1 0

Garden CareWatering

Water only when needed. Vegetable garden soilshould be kept evenly moist. If nature does notprovide 1 in. of rainfall per week, supplementwith a single application during a seven - dayperiod.

Some vegetable crops are naturally moredeep-rooted and drought-tolerant than others.Generally, leafy crops, the nightshade family, andonion family crops will need the most frequentwatering. Root vegetables should also be kept evenlymoist (no wet-dry fluctuation) to prevent woody roots.The application of mulching materials will reduce theneed for additional water. Seeds and seedlings in thegermination/establishment phase require more frequentwatering, as they need moisture closer to the surface.

Small fruits, such as blueberries, strawberries, andraspberries, need adequate moisture (1 in. per week) atall times during the growing season. Full size fruit treesrequite less watering than dwarf fruit trees.

PestsSerious pest problems can usually be avoided by

properly siting, planting, and maintaining the garden.The following preventative measures will reduce thechance of pest invasion:

Choose healthy vegetable transplants anddisease- resistant fruit and vegetable varieties.Rotate crops when practical so that the same or arelated crop is not in the same place year afteryear. Repeated plantings of the same plants inthe same spot can encourage insect infestationand the build-up of soil diseases.Practice good garden

4:1 Zze %tisanitation. Weeds, gardenerdebris, and other rubbishmay harbor insects, slugsand diseases.Weed out volunteer vegetable seedlings such astomatoes and squash as they compete withdesired crops for water, space, and nutrients.Time vegetable plantings to avoid peak insectinfestations. Record when insect problemsappear so you can plan future plantings.Inspect plants for insects and eggs frequently.

Pick off and destroy any you find.Dislodge insects with frequent sprays of water.This may be all the control you need for aphids,whiteflies, two-spotted mites and spittle bugs.Construct insect barriers over vegetable plants.Use screening or floating row covers (remove

covers for insect - pollinated plants when flowersappear).Protect fruit crops from birds with netting.

o Properly train and prune fruit trees to helpreduce disease and insect problems.Monitor for slugs by trapping in containers ofbeer. They can also be lured beneath boards forcapture.Keep the garden free of debris to limit hidingand breeding places for pests.Mulch around fruit and vegetable plants to keepweeds down, add organic matter to the soil andreduce evaporation. Pull all weeds by handbefore they get large. Herbicides are unnecessaryin a vegetable garden.

* Use the least toxic control method. Some ofthese might include Bacillusthuringiensis, insecticidal soaps,

and horticultural oil.

FertilizerFertilizers supplement the nutrients

already in the soil. Many gardenersapply too much, which may damageplants, endanger water quality, andwaste money. When preparing the ground forvegetables in the spring, incorporate limestone(according to a soil test) and 1 to 2 lbs. of granularfertilizer per 100 sq. ft. When using chemical fertilizerson established plants, apply in bands along rows ofseeded vegetables or in a circle around each plant. Thisimproves yield and reduces the use of fertilizer.

Complete chemical fertilizers containing nitrogen,phosphorus, and potassium in the ratios of 10-10-10 or5-10-10 are the easiest and least expensive to use. Theyare readily available for plant uptake during the periodof cool soil temperatures in the spring. However,organic sources of nutrients, such as cottonseed, boneand blood meal, manures, compost, fish extract, andother organic materials, are available and may be used.As the percentage of nutrients in organic material isrelatively low compared to chemical fertilizers, fairlylarge amounts may be required to supply plant needs.

REMEMBERLocate the garden where it is sunny and level.Plant disease-resistant, locally adapted varieties.Water only when needed.Use the least toxic pest control methods.

NFor more information about Great Lakes: GreatGardening, call your local Cooperative Extension.Artwork by Susan Stone Printed on recycled paper

Great Lakes:Great Gardening

Composting Yard Wastes

Fact Sheet # 4

A Valuable ResourceGardening creates wastes (vegetable garden debris,

leaves, twigs and branches, etc.) that can be convertedby composting into a valuable resource.

N

The Great Lakes Gardening approach to gardenand yard wastes is to compost them and reuse theend product as a soil amender. Compost providesorganic matter and valuable nutrients for many ofyour fertilizer needs.

Keep Yard Wastes Out of the Great LakesDumping of these valuable and recyclable materials

in Lakes Erie and Ontario or a river, lake, stream, stormdrain, or recharge basin endangers the health of thewater, the plants and animals associated with the watersystems, as well as our own fresh water supply.

Using Yard WastesMulchingYard wastes such as leaves and wood chips can be

used as a mulch. Adding mulch to your garden will

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conserve water, moderate soil temperature, and reduceweed growth. Eventually, nutrientswithin the mulch will be released,and the decomposed organic matterwill improve soil structure. Grassclippings are best left on the lawnto recycle their plant nutrientsdirectly back into the growing grass. Improvedrecycling lawnmowers are available to assist thisprocess. Clippings do not contribute to thatchproblems.

CompostingCompost, the end product of organic decomposition,

can be used to improve the soil. Compost can loosenheavy clay soils by improving soil structure. This

improves aeration and waterinfiltration. In sandy soils, water and

nutrient--holding ability will beincreased (1 lb. of organic

matter can hold up to 7 lbs.of water). The organic matter and

its microbial populations will increase the soil's abilityto hold and break down certain groups of pesticides.Soilsrich in organicmatter alsoprovide afavorableenvironmentfor manybeneficialorganisms, suchas insects, worms,and microorganisms.

Partially decomposed compost can be used as asurface mulch to control weeds. However, when it istilled into the soil prior to planting, it should becompletely decomposed.

What can be composted? All organic materials arecompostable. Large pieces (twigs, branches, stalks, etc.)should be chipped or shredded to smaller pieces tospeed up the breakdown process. Shredding leaves isalso a good idea; a rotary mower could be used for this.

Herbicide --treated grass clippings, if collected, mustbe composted until completely decomposed (possiblyup to a year) to eliminate potential secondary herbicideproblems.

Diseased plant parts, as well as perennial weeds andweeds with seeds, should not be placed in a compostpile unless a large amount of organic matter is to beadded at the same time. A large pile of properlymanaged decomposing biomass can provide highenough temperatures to kill many types of organisms.

A properly maintained compost pile will be odorlessand free of pests and rodents.

REMEMBERYard wastes are a valuable recyclable resourcethat can improve the immediate surroundingswithout damaging any part of the environment.

Using composted wastes to help improve soilwill help with plant establishment and decreasesoil erosion.

For more information about Great Lakes: GreatGardening for both a better garden and a cleaner Lake,call or visit your local Cooperative Extension office.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

Great Gardening)Great Lakes:

Herbicides and Water Quality

Fact Sheet # 5

Caution Is Required With all Herbicides

Almost all pesticides (including herbicides) can bedamaging if they are not used exactly as their labelsstate. Improper application or spills may not onlydamage desirable plants but can be harmful to birds,bees, fish, beneficial insects, and ultimately animals,including humans.

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The Great Lakes Gardening approach toherbicides is to use alternative weed controlmeasures whenever possible and to minimizeapplications of pesticides by accuratelyidentifying the target, using only what is neededat the proper time and in correct amounts.

Everyone gardens over groundwater and lives on astream, whether there is one flowing through thebackyard or not. Water which flows off your property iscarried into drainage ditches or storm sewers. The watereventually flows into Lakes Erie and Ontario. It is theduty of all gardeners to make choices that are the leastharmful to our waters.

Potential to PolluteWhether an herbicide has the potential to find its way

into ground or surface water is dependent on a numberof factors: the chemical's solubility (whether it readilydissolves in water); its adsorptive qualities (how tightlyit can bind to clay and humus particles in the soil); andits degradation (how fast soil microbes or other factorsbreak it down into harmless components). Other factorsthat influence an herbicide's effectiveness are:

soil texture (sand, silt, clay, and organic mattercontent)slope or grade of the land where it is usedthe proximity of the groundwater to the soilsurfacethe presence and depth of hardpans and otherimpermeable layersamount and timing of rainfall or irrigationfollowing application

Finally, human behavior greatly affects whether anychemical has the potential to pollute. As everyherbicide is developed to solve specific weed problems,the homeowner must take care to use the right chemical(if any) for the target and to strictly follow all labelinstructions. Check with your local CooperativeExtension office for advice on organic alternatives toherbicide use, lawn care without pesticides, andherbicides recommended for specific problems.

Alternative Weed ControlBefore choosing an herbicide, the homeowner or

gardener has several less toxic alternatives to consider.In the case of lawns, a well-chosen turfgrass in fertile,highly organic soil, kept tall by mowing 3-3 1/2 in., willeffectively block most weeds. Hand pulling or spottreating the encroachers is often sufficient. Further, ahealthy, thick lawn prevents water runoff and erosion.

Flower and vegetable gardeners can control weedsusing mulch -- from newspaper or black plastic to woodchips, straw, pine needles, leaves, or grass clippings. Inlarger plots, intercropping with such cover crops asclover may be suitable, and proper tilling (shallowtilling, twice in both spring and fall) decreases weedemergence. Solarizing (using clear plastic to encouragegrowth of weeds until they die) the soil is also effective.

Finally, new developments in weed control includeusing safe, soap-based herbicides, companion planting,and allelopathy (the study of plants that have adverseeffects on the growth of other plants), and recentlydeveloped seedicides. The Erie County CooperativeExtension Office can offer additional information onorganic choices, including mulches and weedmanagement.

REMEMBERApply herbicides only when absolutely necessary.Herbicide choices can impact water quality.Good garden and lawn maintenance minimizes theneed for herbicides.A dense lawn will prevent runoff.Proper application rates and timing will improvethe herbicides effectiveness and protect waterquality.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

15

NOV

Great Gardening)Great Lakes:

Watering

Fact Sheet # 6

Plants Need WaterProper watering is essential to a healthy garden. A

plant is 75 - 90% water. Water is necessary for allinternal plant functions such as photosynthesis and ttransportation of nutrients. If water is applied at theproper times in correct amounts, it is possible toconserve it, therby protecting water quality in the GreatLakes.

Overwatering can wash away soil, chemicals, andplant nutrients. They can find their way into rivers,bays, and Lakes Erie and Ontario -- a loss to the gardenand a hazard to aquatic life.

he Method Can Make a Difference.

The Great Lakes Gardening approach to wateringis to plant drought-resistant species, landscape usingxeriscape principles (planned, drought-resistantlandscapes) and water when needed.

Water Can or Garden HoseThis method is only appropriate forcontainers, small flower beds, newly

planted trees, shrubs, or recently - sown floweror vegetable seeds. A small garden will require a greatdeal of time and patience to hand water properly.Sinking perforated plastic jugs into the ground next toplants will encourage infiltration. Using mulch willkeep the soil moist and cool in the heat of summer.

SprinklersKeep the water pattern even by

moving the sprinkler frequently and overlappingabout one - half of each pattern. Place oscillatingsprinklers higher than the plants to prevent water from

16

being diverted by plant leaves. Do not apply waterfaster than the soil can absorb it. Be sure the sprinkler isnot watering the sidewalk, street, or other pavedsurface.

Soaker Hoses

There are a variety of special soaker hoses available.These can reduce runoff and evaporative losses andgenerally do not cost more than normal garden hoses.Perforated plastic hoses or soaker hoses should beplaced with holes facing downward along oneside of the crop row or underneath mulch.1Water will slowly soak into the soil without wettingfoliage, thus decreasing evaporation and the risk offoliage diseases.

Trickle and Drip SystemsTrickle or drip irrigation is very

efficient, since it applies water toeach plant's root zone at a rateconsistent with its moisturerequirements. It can reduce wateruse by as much as 50-80%compared to overhead

irrigation. Anotheradvantage of these

systems is that foliage stays dry, reducing the potentialfor foliage disease problems.

When to WaterIt is best to water early in the morning, and then,

water only when needed. A good rule of thumb inwatering plants is to fill the entire root zone and thenallow the soil to partially dry out before the nextirrigation. The speed of drying depends on the plant sizeand species, the ability of the soil to hold water, and theweather.

A small or newly - established plant will needwatering before very much soil drying takes placegenerally within a few days to one week. Since seedsand seedlings should never be allowed to dry, they needmore frequent watering. A vegetable garden should bewatered when the soil within 1 in. of the surface feelsdry to the touch. When a lawn gets too dry, it shows aloss of resilience; footprints will remain visible in thegrass, and its color will change to a grayish hue.

Once plants are established, less frequent, deepwatering with dry periods between will encourage deeproots. Gradually extend the length of time betweenwaterings.

Do not rely on automatic timers. If using anautomatic system, install a moisture sensor to turn it onand off. Also, do not water on windy days or during theheat of the day, especially with sprinklers, whenconsiderable water may be lost to evaporation. Earlymorning watering is best for lawns and most otherplants.

How Much Water to UseA running hose can deliver about 375 gals. in

one hour. Too much water, especially in poorlydrained soils, can be damaging. Apply wateronly as fast as the soil can absorb it. Turn offwater at the first sign of puddling; turn it back on later ifwater did not penetrate the whole root zone. Do notapply water at rates greater than 1/4 in. to 1/2 in. perhour; faster watering can cause runoff and/or erosion.Use small containers to measure the amount of waterbeing applied. A lawn can use 1 in. to 1 1/2 in. of waterper week during hot dry weather.

How to Reduce the Need for WaterSelect low -water use plants.Add organic matter to the soil to increase thewater - holding capacity of sandy soils and allowfor better air and water movement in compactedsoils.Design the landscape around sound xeriscapeprinciples -- consolidating plants requiringsimilar amounts of irrigation. Azaleas andrhododendrons could be grouped in one area;junipers and potentilla in another.Select a turfgrass that excels in low -waterconditions.Mulch the tilled areas to help reduce evaporationof water.

REMEMBERWater deeply and slowly.Water when needed, not according to apre-determined schedule.Water only as fast as it can be absorbed bythe soil.

Follow watering restrictions when andwhere they exist.

For more information on Great Lakes: Great Gardeningcontact your local Cooperative Extension office.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

Great Lakes:Great Gardening was made possible through the combined efforts' of the SeaGrant Programs of New York and Connecticut, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Erie, Nassau,Suffolk, and Westchester counties.

18

Great Lakes:Great Gardening

Soil Erosion by Water

Fact Sheet # 7

Erosion Hurts Your Garden and the Great Lakes

Driving rain and rushing water can carry away soilparticles, organic matter, plant nutrients, and pesticides.This water-soil-chemical mix finds its way to ponds,recharge basins, streams, storm sewers, and ultimatelyLakes Erie and Ontario. Fine soil particles causecloudiness in natural waters, and excess nutrients maycause unnatural and ecologically disastrous blooms ofalgae. Pesticides, even in small quantities, may affectthe health of fish and those who eat them.

Great Lakes: Great Gardening practices can help youcontrol soil erosion and improve water quality.

The Great Lakes Gardening approach is toprevent soil erosion, thereby reducing runoff andcontamination of Lakes Erie and Ontario by:

planting ground covers, shrubs and trees topromote infiltration of watercovering bare areas as soon as possibledirecting water across vegetated areas topromote infiltration

9

The Susceptibility to Soil Erosion

Soil Erosion Depends On:Soil cover-- type and percent of coverage;Soil type -- t he most erosion prone soils are silty

or sandy;Grade -- Sloping areas are more likely to erode.

How to Spot ErosionA gully is obvious evidence of soil erosion. Not all

erosion is this easily recognized. Look around for theseother signs:

muddy or cloudy water in the driveway,roadway, or gutter following rain or wateringbare spots in lawnsnewly exposed tree roots (however, somespecies, such as maple, grow this way naturally)small stones or rocks appearing where none werebeforesmall rills or gullies beginning to showdeposits of fine soils, usually in low - lying areassoil splashed on windows and outside wallswidening or deepening of stream channelsfallen trees in stream channelscloudy or muddy appearance of surface waterbodies (ponds, lakes, Lakes Erie and Ontario,

Prevention and Remedies

Redirect WaterObserve the flow of stormwater before considering

vegetative control of erosion. Large amounts of soil canbe carried by water as it gains speed on a slope.Structural means of redirecting water may be necessarywhen slopes are steep and erosion is severe. Diversionsplaced atop a slope or terracing throughout will slow thewater, reduce erosion, and allow for plantestablishment. Professional advice may be necessarywhere land value is high or damage to property or life ispossible.

Cover the SoilBare soil is the primary source of erosion. Reestablish

vegetation as soon as possible wherever soil is exposed.Grass clippings, straw, or any other temporary coverwill reduce erosion until permanent vegetation can beestablished. In heavy traffic areas, where plants cannotbe used, a permanent mulch of stone, bark, orwoodchips may be the only answer.

Protect VegetationProtect vegetation where high-water velocities are expected.For example, use a concrete splashblockat the rain gutter outlet and place large rough-edged

stones at the outlet of any pipe.

Plant the Right VegetationGet the right kinds of plant varieties growing in the

yard. When reestablishing vegetation, be certain that thesoil, sunlight, drainage, and moisture are adequate.

Observe what plants are growing in similar situationsand use them. There are many species that lendthemselves to erosion control:

pachysandraground junipershore junipercrown vetchtall fescue

staghorn sumacautumn olivered--osier dogwoodbird's--foot trefoil

Correct planting and good care will encourage quickestablishment and cover.

REMEMBERKeep soil covered.Redirect water flow on slopes.Plant the right vegetation.Preventing erosion protects your soil and theLakes.

\-1Estassassmottamommermuummommastimma,

For more information about Great Lakes: GreatGardening for both a better garden and a cleaner Lake,call or visit your local Cooperative Extension office.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

20

Great Lakes:Great Gardening

Soil Fertility

Fact Sheet # 8

Protect the Soil

Soil is the essential foundation for all higher plants.Its fertility, pH (measure of acidity), moisture content,and physical qualities determine how well it willsupport plant life. Understanding and caring for the soilwill produce a healthier, more productive garden.

The Great Lakes Gardening approach to soilfertility is to have your soil tested and applyfertilizers and limestone in the recommendedamounts. By minimizing excess applications, yoursoil will sustain healthier plants, and any impacton water quality will be minimized.

Know Your Soil

DrainageDrainage is the ability of water to flow through the

soil. Water and dissolved chemicals move quicklythrough coarse - textured, sandy, or gravelly soil. Finetextured silt and clay soils and soils high in organicmatter slow down the flow of water. These soil typesprovide sites to plant nutrients and other chemicals toadhere to.

Well - drained soils that are at least 2 ft. deep are themost suitable for all types of gardening. S with ahigh water table or those with a shallow hardpan layerwill have more problems and may require sitemanagement and/or modification.

21

FertilityMinerals necessary to support plant life are supplied

from organic and inorganic sources. The complexchemical processes that supply plant nutrients areaffected by the soil environment -- moisture,temperature, pH, and types of microorganisms present.

Improper application of fertilizer, including organicfertilizers, can result in loss of nutrients by surfacerunoff to nearby streams, lakes, rivers, or Lakes Erie andOntario or by percolation into the groundwater.

Applying too much fertilizer can:- waste money and time- damage plant roots- increase susceptibility to diseases- encourage weed growth- pollute surface and groundwater- stimulate unwanted growth

To avoid overfertilization, have the soil testedthrough Cooperative Extension. Testing will give thelevel of primary plant nutrients and pH, recommendedfertilizer rates to correct any deficiencies, and warn ofexcessive nutrient levels. It is important not to exceedthe suggested rates.

Complete chemical fertilizers, containing nitrogen,phosphorus, and potassium or organic sources of plantnutrients (cottonseed and bone meal, manures, compost,etc.) are available and may be used to supply needednutrients. Because the percentage of plant nutrients inmost organic material is relatively low compared tochemical fertilizers, large amounts may be required tosupply the needs of plants.

Properly timed annual or semi-annual applications offertilizer are more beneficial to the plant's health andare less likely to cause environmental damage thaninfrequent heavy, ill-timed applications.

Woody plants, as a general rule, produce anabundance of roots in the spring as the soil warms.Depending on how stressful summer weather conditionsare, additional root growth will occur in the fall as thesoil cools. Contolled release -fertilizers can be appliedin the spring or late fall if the soil has sufficientmoisture. A fertilizer containing nitrogen in aslow - release form is usually recommended for fallfertilization. Avoid fertilizer application to dry soil andwhen soil temperatures are below 40 °F.

Trees and shrubs growing in or bordering a regularlyfertilized lawn will usually not need separateapplications of fertilizer. Plants not putting on adequategrowth or having poor foliage color may be sufferingfrom a disorder other than lack of nutrients. Alwayslocate and remedy the primary cause before applying

fertilizer to possibly aid in the plant's "road torecovery." Recently installed woody plants may respondto a fertilizer application if nutrient levels are low.Usually, phosphorus is lacking. In sandy soils, nitrogenmay also be in short supply.

Avoid fertilizing woody plants from mid-Junethrough September to avoid late flushes of tendergrowth that will not harden off properly before wintersets in. This tender growth could be injured or killed atlow temperatures, providing entry for disease during thenext growing season.

Nutrients that run off in the surface water willeventually reach Lakes Erie and Ontario. High nutrientlevels may cause unnatural and sometimes disastrousalgae blooms. Plant nutrients or chemicals leaching intothe groundwater can contaminate drinking water for thisand future generations.

ConditioningProductivity and workability of the soil can be greatly

improved by mixing in suitable decomposed organicmatter. This will improve the water and thenutrient-holding ability of the soil, buffer temperaturechanges, and prevent rapid fluctuations in the pH. Withincreased microbial activity, the breakdown ofmanypesticides will be aided. Because of the chemicalactivity associated with organic matter, bonding sites inthe soil matrix will be provided for some pesticides,thus preventing their movement into the groundwater.

REMEMBERFertilize according to what the plant needs.Do not overfertilize.Time applications correctly.Add organic matter to improve soil structure.Healthy soil contributes to a healthyenvironment.

For more information about Great Lakes: GreatGardening for both a better garden and a cleaner Lake,call or visit your local Cooperative Extension office.

Arwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper.

22

Great Gardening)Great Lakes:

Pest Management

Fact Sheet # 9

Pests are organisms that harm our gardens andlandscapes. Many people think of insects when theythink of pests, but fungi, bacteria, viruses, weeds,rodents and other animals can be as troublesome. Theycompete with us for food, injure plants and are a generalannoyance. Pests can be controlled without damagingthe environment, but gardeners needs to becomeobservant, knowledgeable, and patient.

A totally pest-free garden, though seeminglydesirable, is expensive and unattainable. In fact, a smallpest population is helpful in attracting and maintaininga population of natural predators.

When pests must be controlled, the integrated pestmanagement (IPM) approach is the ecologically soundchoice. Seek the solution with the least harmful impact.

IPM Stepsdetermination of tolerable weed or pest levelpreventionaccurate identification of the pestselection of the most accurate treatment (timing,quantity, frequency, targets), that offers the leasttoxicity.

Know the GardenDo you know what is going on in your garden?

Inspect the plants for insect and disease damage --including the underside of leaves -- at night as well asdaytime. Observe the behavior of insects and usereference books or Cooperative Extension literature toidentify the insects present, remembering that most arebeneficial and many are your helpful predators.Beneficial insects include ladybugs, spiders, bees,wasps, praying mantises, and many beetles and flies.

23

When you use pesticides, you areprobably killing beneficial insectsalong with your target pests, sosuch choices should be made onlywhen the insects have been identified.

When you do identify a pest problem, the firstquestion is not what to spray. Rather, ask whether thepest is really a problem. If needed, use the least toxicmethod of control, that is, pull the weed, remove thediseased leaf, or squash the harmful insect. Sometimesnatural predators will discover the pest. The more oftengarden chemicals are used, the greater the risk ofendangering human health and the environment.

By looking at the pest problem realistically, it ispossible to:

Save money by buying fewer pesticidesSave time by addressing only what needs tobe controlledSave the Great Lakes and other water bodiesby introducing fewer chemicals into theenvironment.

Wise Gardening Prevents ProblemsMake the garden a healthy place for preferred plants

and an undesirable place for pests by:Selecting appropriate species or varieties that areinsect - and/or disease - resistant.Providing proper moisture levels to maintainhealthy plants and thus conserve water.Maintaining proper fertility and pH levels byhaving the soil tested and applying only thenutrients needed. Soil amended with (compost or other types oforganic matter will help withfertilizer and water retention,as well as providing a home forbeneficial earthworms.Rotating the various groups of plants ,

where practical, to reduce insect and cvdisease problems.Keeping the garden free of debris, ).particularly dead plants that may be infested,and weeds unless they are part of the plan for

maintaining beneficial insects.Timing plantings to avoid known insects/pests.Encouraging the build-up of beneficial insectsand mites. (Beneficial insects need water, food,and shelter, so provide appropriate flowers andherbs in your garden so that the helpers arearound when pests arrive.)

Properly identifying the problem before controlmeasures are activated.Estimating potential damage and deciding it isnecessary to control insects and mites. If given achance, perhaps natural predators will take over.

* Selecting the least toxic, or least chemicalapproach to control the problem.Recording the results of action taken. Adecision not to spray is an action taken.

Non-Toxic Control MethodsInsects

Prune heavilyinfested parts of theplant. This method is used againstlocalized infestations of the scale insects.

O Cover crops with screening, floating, or framedrow covers, etc., to prevent insects from layingeggs or migrating from nearby areas. The coversmust be removed when insect - pollinated cropscome into flower.Use insect traps where appropriate, such as thered sticky trap for apple maggot, or the stickyyellow cards to measure or catch whitefies orsome gnats and aphids.Remove insects and mites with a spray of water.Handpick insects, slugs, and squash egg masses.Use companion planting combinations thatcontrol insect pests by repelling, confusing, orattracting beneficial insects, and avoidmonocropping.

Diseases* Plant disease-resistant varieties.

Rotate annual and vegetable plants wherepractical, and avoid using plants especiallyprone to disease attacks.Space plants to improve air circulation.Time overhead irrigation early in the day toallow the foliage to dry before nightfall.Prune out diseased plant parts to avoid infectingother plants. Discard badly diseased plants.Be meticulous about fall clean-up, and do notcompost or mulch diseased debris.

Slugs* Use shallow containers of beer or yeast solution

to monitor for slugs.Provide hiding places (overturned pots, citrus ormelon rinds, boards, burlap). Check themfrequently and kill slugs.

WeedsUse mulches to prevent weed germination.

* Hand weed and/or cultivate weekly.Till properly to minimize stirring up weed seeds(unless you maintain a permanently mulched,

24

no-till bed). In fall, till twice, first at 7 in. andtwo weeks later at 2 in. in spring, till twice, at 2in., the last time just at planting.Use cover crops or intercropping to block weeds.

PesticidesPesticides (insecticides, miticides, herbicides, etc.)

are chemicals used to control pests. If used improperly,they can have an impact beyond their intended target.The continual accumulation and combination of smallamounts of toxic substances can create problems. Ifmisused, small quantities of toxic chemicals can disruptthe environment. Even botanical pesticides can killbeneficial insects.

A pest population can become resistant to pesticideswhen only one or two products are used repeatedlyagainst a specific pest. Pesticides should be the lastdefense to control a pest.

The Great Lakes Gardening strategy is to usealternative pest control methods, build up thenatural predator population, reduce the amount ofchemicals introduced into the environment, toapply the product properly only when needed, andto keep pesticides in the target area.

If Pesticides Are Used!Chemical controls should be applied only when the

pest is present or if weather conditions are favorable forthe outbreak of a regularly; occurring disease (scab onan apple). Spraying should not be set by the calendar.Schedule treatments to be most effective and leastdisruptive to naturally existing pest predators (i.e.,before dawn or after dusk to protect bees).

Choose the Right ChemicalSeek good advice when in doubt about a problem.

Choose the least toxic alternative: pyrethrins,insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, rotenone, and thebiologicals, Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.). Buy only whatyou need for one season. Some pest control productslose their effectiveness while sitting on the shelf. Somewill also require specific storage conditions. Reread thelabel each time you use the pesticide. Make sure thepest and plant or site is listed. Labels change and newerrestrictions could have been added.

Mix CorrectlyDo not guess when mixing. Measure and follow the

label recommendations carefully, mixing only theamount that you will use that day. Chemicals candamage plants, harm people and the environment.

Be Prepared for SpillsClean up spills right away. Your chemical storage

area should have a non-porous floor to facilitatecleaning spills. It should not have a drain. Set up abarrier, such as cat litter, to contain the spills. Do notflush spilled material down a drain. Carefully sweep upspilled powders and dusts. Scrub wood, cement or tilesurfaces with a small amount of water and activatedcharcoal. Place all contaminated material in a plasticbag, seal, and dispose of properly at a householdhazardous waste collection facility.

Apply Chemicals ProperlyRead and follow all safety precautions on the label.

Do not apply pesticides when:it is windy or raining

o there is a possibility they will enter a streamlake or drain,

o the temperatures are above 85°F.

Dispose of Leftover Pesticide ConcentrateUse the pesticides as directed on the label. Record

how much was actually needed for future reference. Donot pour unused portions down a drain, for they couldflow into the Lakes. If the pesticide is no longereffective or wanted, call the town for information onhousehold hazardous waste disposal programs in yourarea. Triple - rinse empty containers and use the rinsewater for the spray.

Store Properly and SafelyStore all pesticides in their original, labeled

containers. Keep them on secure, strong shelves in alocked cabinet away from heat and moisture. Alwayskeep them away from children, pets, and irresponsibleadults.

For more information on pest management, IPM,mulches, green manures, beneficial insects, or theOrganic Choices fact sheets (Erie County) contact yourlocal Cooperative Extension office.

REMEMBERPest control choices can impact water quality.Good garden management is the best means ofcontrolling pests.Most insects are not harmful, many are beneficial

predators, so using pesticides may kill your best ally.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper

25

Great Gardening)Great Lakes:

Landscaping

Fact Sheet # 10

Development on open land and in wooded areas hasincreased the area covered by buildings, paved surfacesand turf. This development causes increased runoff thatcarries contaminants. This phenomenon occurs morerapidly after a storm. Storm sewers carry most runoffuntreated into surface or groundwaters, where it poses aserious threat to our water quality. Gardeners can helpalleviate the runoff problems by reducing the volume ofwater leaving their property.

Water FlowStart by watching the pattern of water flow,

on and around the garden and lawn. Doesoverflow run off in a heavy rain, carryingsoil with it, exposing plant roots? Does the walerpenetrate to plant roots when watering, or does itrun uselessly down the sidewalk, driveway oralley and into the storm drains?

Making Landscape ChoicesYour landscape choices can improve the beauty of

the garden and the water quality of streams, rivers, bays,the Great Lakes, and groundwater. Properly selectedplants or landscaping features can reduce runoff andminimize the amount of pesticides and fertilizersapplied to lawns and gardens. Plant selection, turf areas,types of walks and decks, and control of waterinfiltration and flow, affect water quality in the Lakes.

Plant SelectionAll plants have their own special requirements in

terms of sunlight, moisture, temperature range, soiltype, and fertility needs. A plant ,:ving in less

than optimum conditions will not be ashealthy as it could be under idealconditions.

-26

Selecting plants with needs that match what the site canprovide will minimize maintenance, enhance planthealth and reduce the need for fertilizers and pesticides.

Turf ChoicesTurf can remain an integral part of the landscape

without being a heavy user of water, fertilizer, andpesticides. Good quality turf can be maintained withlimited use of chemicals. When a new lawn orrenovation is planned, select turfgrass types andvarieties that are low maintenance and disease-resistant.(Cooperative Extension can provide you with a list).It is not wise to grow grass:

in dense shade with shallow tree rootswhere maintenance is difficult (under lowbranches, on steep hillsides, etc.)where intensive traffic tramples all vegetationand compacts the soil.

The Great Lakes Gardening strategy tolandscaping is to plant low maintenance,disease-resistant species and varieties andfollow xeriscaping principles.

If you decide to reduce the area devoted to lawns, useground covers such as ivy or pachysandra, shrubberyborders and trees. These types of plants help to:

give an increased sense of spacereduce home heating and cooling costs byblocking the cold winds of winter and providingshade in the summerencourage birds, many of which are naturalpredators of bothersome insects, by providingnesting sites and creating wildlife habitatreduce the use of chemicals; properly selectedand planted woody plants generally require lesschemical applicationsreduce the amount of water neededallow for more time to enjoy the garden, as lesstime must be spent maintaining it.

Selecting WalkwaysConcrete and asphalt seal the land, eliminating

infiltration, causing runoff in areas that could otherwisesoak up the water. Following are some paving surfacesthat can offer permeability as well as durability.

Modular PaversIn moderate traffic areas where

turfgrass is desired, modular paverscan be used. This category includes

stone, brick, and lattice paving blocks.They can be used on any well-drained soils

and must be placed on a base of crushed

stone or sand. To further camouflage these blocks, soilcan be placed in open spaces between bricks and grassweeds sown. Maintenance is similar to rest of the lawn.

Wood DeckingA low deck, with a 2 in. x 6 in. board surface, serves

as an attractive and functional ground surface. Heightscan vary to make a yard more interesting and to suit theterrain. Properly designed decking constructed withappropriate material (either cedar, redwood, or treatedwood) will last a long time. Spaces between the boardsallow for the easy infiltration of rainwater. Decksgenerally shade out most weed growth. One-half in. to3/4 in. pea gravel, 2 in. to 3 in. deep will allow forinfiltration of water reduce erosion under the deck.

Stone or GravelThese can make an attractive surface. Be sure to use

porous sheeting underneath to help stabilize gravel andto control weeds while permitting water infiltration.

Controlling RunoffThink about the ultimate destination of rainwater.

Runoff from roofs and paved surfaces can be deflectedonto and spread over well drained soil where infiltrationoccurs. Encourage retention and infiltration by:

using gravel or modular pavers installed in lowlying areas where runoff may be detained,allowing it to infiltrate the soil more efficientlyusing gravel seepage pits, a Dutch Drain or aseries of infiltration beds underlain by either agravel or tile drainage systemusing gravel trenches or french or curtain drainsalong driveways and pathwaysterracingdirecting runoff across vegetated surfaces --resodding bare patches in the lawn.

For more information on Great Lakes Gardening,contact your local Cooperative Extension office.

REMEMBERDesign the yard to suit your needs and protectwater quality.

High quality turfgrass can be maintained usinglimited chemical inputs.

Keep rainfall and irrigation water on your yard.Use permeable paving materialsChoose low water use plants.

Artwork by Susan StonePrinted on recycled paper

2

Great Lakes:Great Gardening

Attracting Birds Naturally

Fact Sheet # 11

Good for the Birds: Good for YouAttracting birds to your backyard is usually

considered just an enjoyable pastime. But did youknow that there are other benefits? They reducepopulations of insects that attack flowers, lawns,gardens, and people. The idea of attracting birdsusually brings to mind images of bird feeders,birdhouses, and birdbaths. But there is another morenatural way of attracting birds: landscaping with plantsthat are desirable to birds. Birds are attracted to plantsthat provide food and cover, a nesting place, or a refugefrom predators. As natural habitats are destroyed andbird populations decline, it becomes increasinglyimperative for individual citizens to create miniaturebird sanctuaries in their backyards.

Variety is the Spice of Life

Birds normally feed on brightly colored berries,seeds of all sorts (including the seeds of pine cones andother conifers), insects, and in some cases, nectar.Birds enjoy variety, so keep this in mind whenlandscaping. Use a full range of plant materialincluding flowers, grasses, vines, trees and shrubs, bothdeciduous and evergreen. Vary the sizes, shapes, andspecies of your selections. You will likely find yourselfenjoying the variety as much as the birds do.

28

Choosing the Right VegetationAlmost any plant will provide some benefit to birds,

whether it be seedsor berries, thickunderbrush forprotection, softmaterial for nesting

(orioles often weavemilkweed fluff into their nests), orbright flowers which attract insects.To provide the most beneficial plants,refer to the table below.

Besides choosing appropriate plants, there are somegeneral guidelines to follow:

Plant shrubs and hedges densly in order toprovide adequate cover (a tangled thicketis heaven to a bird family).Avoid overpruning, as this will decreasethe number of buds, seeds, and berriesavailable to birds.If you have a dead tree, consider keepingit if it is not endangering property orhealth, since it provides excellent nestingsites.Avoid using insecticides, as they can befatal to birds.

Another aspect of gardening for birds which cannotbe ignored is to provide a source of water. Since mostgardens do not come equipped with a pond or runningstream, reasonable substitutions canbe easily made. The simple pedestal birdbathwith which we are all familiar actually does anadmirable job. But be sure it is not filled toodeeply (one or two inches will do), since birdsprefer not to venture much beyond ankle depth.It is also important also to realize that song birds areparticularly attracted to the sound of water; a meretrickling or even dripping is quite adequate.

0

00 o

d',4ib-7'Sji.;"-

One other factor to consider is.that many birds areuncomfortable in large open lawn spaces. So if you'vebeen considering shrinking your lawn in order todecrease your mowing time and effort, you could easilyrationalize that you're doing it for the birds!

Artwork by Susan Stone

PLANTS FOR ATTRACTING BIRDS

TreesAcer rubrum

Carya spp.Celtis spp.Corn us Florida

Diospyros virginianaElaeagn US angustifoliaFagus grandifoliaFraxinus americanaIlex opacaJuniperus scopulorumJuniperus virginianaMalus spp.Mortis albaNyssa sylvaticaOlneya tesotaPinus strobusPlatanus wrightiiPopulus tremuloidesPrunus serotinaPrunes virginianaPseudotsuga menzesiiQuercus albaQuercus palustrisQuercus rubraTsuga canadensis

ShrubsAmelanchier spp.Buddleia davidiiCorn us sericeaIlex verticillataMyrica spp.Prunus maritimaRhodendron

catawbienseRibes spp./titbits spp.Sambusus canadensis

Vaccinium spp.Viburnum dentatumViburnum trilobion

FlowersAntirrhinum majusCampsis radicansFuchsia x hybridaHeuchera sanguineaLilium spp.Monarda didymaPhlox paniculataTropaeolum mujus

29

red maple

hickorieshackberriesflowering dogwoodcommon persimmonRussian oliveAmerican beechwhite ashAmerican hollyRocky Mountain junipereastern red cedarcrab apples, appleswhite mulberryblack tupeloironwoodeastern white pinesycamorequaking aspenwild black cherrychokecherryDouglas firwhite oakpin oakred oakCanada hemlock

serviceberriesorange-eye bushred osier dogwoodwinterberrybayberriesbeach plum

catawba rhododendroncurrantsblackberries, raspberriesAmerican elderblueberriesarrowwood viburnumAmerican cranberry bushviburnum

common snapdragontrumpet vinefuchsiadaylilyliliesbee balmgarden phloxnasturtium

Printed on recycled paper

Lawns

Fact Sheet # 12

If You Have a Yard, You Probably Have a LawnMost lawns do not have to be meticulously managed

to be healthy and look good. Selecting the right speciesand varieties, fertilizing one to three times per year,proper mowing and thatch management, and timelysummer watering contribute to keeping the lawnhealthy.

Some gardeners, in an attempt to achieve a perfectlawn, may use unnecessary or excessive amounts offertilizers, water, and pesticides. Overfertilization is awaste of money and may pose a hazard to theenvironment. Many of the newer grass varieties retaingood green color with reduced amounts of fertilizer and,in many cases, less water.

A healthy, dense lawn will help reduce weedinvasion and is the best defense against pesticide andfertilizer runoff into the Lakes.

The Great Lakes Gardening approach to lawnsis to use insect - disease - and drought - tolerantgrasses that require fewer chemicals, therebyreducing the risk of environmental damage.

30

The basic lawn-care principles include:Managing lawns properly to minimize the needfor pesticides.Avoiding the use of fertilizer.Using slow-release fertilizers.Following the pesticide label instructions andprecautions.Considering low-care alternatives to turfgrass,such as ground covers, herbs, meadows, or paths.Evaluating lawn priorities: "How important is atotally weed-free lawn and what price am Iwilling to pay for it?"Using grasses with known tolerance to insects,disease, low fertility, and drought. Examples ofdrought-tolerant grasses include:

Kentucky bluegrasses (Bristol and Challenger), andperennial ryegrasses (All Star, Pennfine, and Premier).Some Kentucky Blues that tolerate poor fertility includeFylking, Merit, and Ram I. Fine fescues also performwell under low-maintenance conditions.

Some perennial ryegrasses contain beneficial fungi(endophytic fungi) which render these varieties resistantto certain turf insects such as chinch bugs and sodworms.

(For a complete list of grasses and their tolerances toinsects, diseases, drought, and various other conditions,you may request Cornell Turfgrass CultivarRecommendations for 1993, by Norm Hummel.)

Factors to Consider for a Healthy LanusEstablishment

Planting recommended species and varieties for yourarea will go a long way toward preventing problems. Agood blend for low maintenance lawns includes: (a)Sunny location: 65% fine fescue, 20% perennial rye,and 15% Kentucky Bluegrass, or (b) Shady location:33% perennial rye, 33% fine fescue, and 33%Kentucky Bluegrass.

FertilityMaintain the proper level of soil fertility and avoid

overfertilization by following soil testrecommendations. It is best to use slow-release types ofnitrogen. Do not apply more than one pound of actualnitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. at one time. To determinewhat one pound of actual nitrogen is, divide the firstnumber on the fertilizer bag into 100. Theresult is the amount (in pounds) you shouldtake out of the bag and apply over 1,000 sq. ft.of lawn. The number of applications offertilizer per year is best determined byturf type. Where fine or tall fescue-type

grasses predominate,one or two applications aresuggested. The bluegrasses generally require threeapplications. Recommended application times coincidewith three different holiday periods: Memorial Day,Labor Day and Thanksgiving (quick-release only atThanksgiving).

Amount of Fertilizer to Use(each application on established lawns

% Total NitrogenFertilizer/1000 sq. ft.

45

67

910

20

Lbs.(as on label)

252017

14

12 1/211

10

5

WaterMost lawns require

one inch of water perweek, either in theform of irrigation ornatural rainfall. Somefactors influencing the amount of water needed are:grass and soil type, amount of rainfall, relativehumidity, and wind speed. Deep, infrequent watering ismuch better than daily, shallow watering, except in thecase of a newly established planting.

Soil pHHave a soil pH test done to determine if pH should

be corrected. Proper pH, 6.2 to 6.5, can enhance thegrass's ability to take up valuable fertilizer, toleratedrought conditions, and resist diseases. Limestone orsulfur (to raise or lower pH as needed) can be applied atany time of the year when the ground is not frozen,preferably in fall. Changing the pH takes time--perhapsmore than one season -- but can easily be done, andadvice or testing is readily available at mostCooperative Extension offices.

MowingMow the lawn throughout the growing season at the

recommended height for the species of turfgrassgrowing, selecting the tallest acceptable mowing heightto shade weeds and retain soil moisture. Mowingfrequency is determined by the temperature and the

31

amounts of water and fertilizer applied to the lawn. Themore fertilizer applied, the more frequently the lawn

will have to be mowed.

11111111111111

3

- 21

It is best not to remove more than on- e-third of the grassplant at any one time. Clippings can be left where theyfall if they are less than one inch in length. This willreduce the amount of fertilizer needed by 25%, sinceturfgrass clippings contain nutrients that are releasedback to the soil. If clippings are too long, add them tothe compost pile. Mower blades should be sharp asdull blades fray grass tips, giving the lawn awhitish-brown appearance.

INCHES

Soil CompactionSome areas in our region have clay soil or soil that

has been poorly managed or compacted, thus creating ahardened, poorly aerated and drained soil. Somehomeowners aerate this type of soil (in spring or fall),to allow oxygen and water to get to the grass roots.Wearing golf shoes or other shoes with aerating spikescan help. If the compacted soil layer is more than threeto four inches thick, aeration is of little value becausemost aerifiers do not penetrate below four inches. Evenbetter than aeration techniques is changing the soilstructure by adding organic matter, whether compost,manure, or other shredded material. This improves theoxygen-holding and water-retention ability of the soiland attracts earthworms, which aerate and fertilize.

ThatchThatch is the dense mat of tangled roots and stems,

just above soil level, that form when grass roots cannotpenetrate the soil. This happens when the lawn isoverfertilized and grass roots do not penetrate deep intothe soil in search of nutrients. Heavy thatch restrictswater movement into soil. Some species, such as thefine fescues and Kentucky bluegrasses produce thatch;while others such as tall fescues and perennialryegrasses do not. Thatch can be prevented by healthylawn practices, including fertilizing properly, usingslow nitrogen-releasing or organic fertilizers, andimproving soil with organic material (to attractearthworms, which chew up thatch). De-thatching isrecommended for lawns with 1/2 in. or more of thatchand should be done in the fall. It is wise to use ade-thatching machine with fixed blades rather than amachine with blades that flip back and forth because thelatter will not reduce the underlying thatch layer andwill damage the lawn. To deal with thatch, soil corescan be broken and spread on the lawn. If thatch is overI 1/2 in. thick, total renovation is recommended.

Insect, Disease and Weed ControlThe best tool for pest management is to plant grass

varieties that tolerate the region's growing conditionsand have the greatest resistance to insects and diseases.If you have a problem, take time to accurately identifythe problem, potential damage, and best solution.Avoid applying pesticides according to predeterminedcalendar schedules--unless you have the problem eachyear and a pesticide application is the only means ofcontrol (such as for turf grubs). Begin checking forthese insects in April. Insecticides should be used onlywhen the number of pests is high (i.e., 5 grubs per sq. ft.of healthy lawn). When treatments are necessary, theyshould be chosen and timed to be the most effective indealing with the specific pest and the least disruptive tonatural controls.

REMEMBERA dense, healthy lawn is the best defenseagainst weed invasion.There are turfgrass varieties available todecrease your lawn care requirements.Look for alternatives to lawn in some areas ofthe yard. It will mean less work, a moreinteresting yard and a cleaner Great Lakes.

For more information about lawn care withoutpesticides for both a better yard and a cleaner Lake,call or visit your local Cooperative Extension office.

Artwork by Susan Stone

Printed on recycled paper.

32

Cornell Cooperative Extensions in theLake Ontario/Lal:e Erie Drainage Basin

AlleganyCounty Rd. 48, RD 1, Box 226Belmont, NY 14813

CattaraugusRR 2 Box 16AEllicottville, NY 14731-0870

CayugaP.O. Box 617, 248 Grant Ave.Auburn, NY 13021-0617

Chautauqua3542 Turner Rd.Jamestown, NY 14701-9608

Erie21 South Grove St.East Aurora, NY 14052-2398

Franklin63 West Main St.Malone, NY 12953

Genesee420 Main St.Batavia, NY 14020-2599

HamiltonP.O. Box 207, NYS Rte. 8The White HouseLake Pleasant, NY 12108

OrleansNYS Rte. 5RR 1 Box 234 CHerkimer, NY 13350-9721

JeffersonEmpsall Plaza, 223 J.B. Wise PlaceWatertown, NY 13601-2597

LewisP.O. Box 72, Outer Stowe St.Lowville, NY 13367

Livingston158 South Main St.Mount Morris, NY 14510-1595

MadisonP.O. Box T, Eaton St.Morrisville, NY 13408 -0640

Monroe249 Highland Ave.Rochester, NY 14620

Niagara4487 Lake Ave., Rural-Urban Ctr.Lockport, NY 14094

Oneida126 Second St.Oriskany, NY 13424-0748

Onondaga1050 West Genesee St.Syracuse, NY 13204

Ontario480 North Main St.Canandaigua, NY 14424-1099

Herkimer

P.O. Box 150, 20 South Main St.Albion, NY 14411-0150

Oswego5869 Main St.Mexico, NY 13114

33

St. LawrenceUniversity Shopping Ctr.125 Main St. East,Canton, NY 13617

Schuyler208 BroadwayMontour Falls, NY 14865

Seneca321 East Williams St.Waterloo, NY 13165

Tompkins615 Willow Ave.Ithaca, NY 14850-3555

Wayne1581 Rte. 88NNewark, NY 14513

Wyoming401 North Main St.Warsaw, NY 14569

YatesCounty Office Building110 Court St.

Penn Yan, NY 14527

Hartwell HallSUNY College at BrockportBrockport, NY 14420-2928

21 South Grove St.

East Aurora, NY 14052-2398

Swetman HallSUNY College at OswegoOswego, NY 13126-3599

Fernow HallCornell UniversityIthaca, NY 14853-3001

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