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DonaghadeeWalking Guide

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Historical Walking Trail of Donaghadee, Co Down

The main route consists of flat concrete footpaths with pedestrian crossing opportunities. There is a steep climb up to the Moat. Please be aware when crossing the road and keep an eye out for traffic

We hope you enjoy learning more about the area. Be sure to look out for the other walking guides in the series. These can be downloaded from www.visitstrangfordlough.co.uk along with ideas on what to see and do in the area. We appreciate your comments and suggestions so please contact us via the website.

at all times. The tour will last approximately one hour. For your convenience, there are also public toilets and a wide range of cafes and restaurants in Donaghadee.

Pages 2 – 3

“On a clear day you can see the west coast of Scotland!”

We can almost sense the excitement of the first pioneers as they look across the sea to that other rugged coastline. Never has it seemed so close! On these grassy shores, the first sods are cut and a community is born.

From the mists of early times a definite history begins to emerge about Donaghadee. Centuries go by and welcome to the time of the Gaelic Lords in Ireland. The British

Just to set the scene, let’s start with a little history about Donaghadee

Empire is expanding. Con O’Neill rebels against the Crown and, fearing for his safety, abandons the land he owns around the young town of Donaghadee. This territory passes to Hugh Montgomery, a Scottish Planter who has brought large numbers of compatriots to occupy County Down. They are farmers and craftsmen, and as they gradually improve the harbour, more and more settlers arrive, whilst others move on to populate towns such as Bangor and Newtownards.

Donaghadee Walking Guide

Trade with the mainland thrives, technology improves, confidence grows and Donaghadee steadily becomes the premier ferry port of Ireland. Ships carry people, livestock and the mail on a daily basis across the stormy North Channel. Back on shore, fine houses and businesses spring up to serve the influx of settlers and visitors. For two centuries, Donaghadee enjoys continuous prosperity and establishes itself as the envy of the other towns. However, in the 1800’s the famed

engineers Sir John Rennie and son, take the controversial step of converting the port into a safe harbour for sailing ships. With this, trade inevitably dies off. Larne with its extended harbour is now the new focal point for seaborne traffic along the eastern coast. By the turn of the 19th century, Donaghadee becomes a quiet seaside resort, much favoured by visitors from Belfast, Scotland and England. For the brief summer periods, the town regains some of its former glory.

Rennie, a Scottish engineer, was appointed to build the harbour and on 31 July 1821 the Marquis of Downshire laid the foundation stone. He was one of the most influential men in Ireland and chaired the board of the Donaghadee Packet Company. The stone covered a silver plate, assorted testimonials and glass bottles among others.

Two months into the project, Rennie died and his son took over the project at the age of 27. Rennie wanted to add a four storied arch along the lines of the Arc de Triomphe at the harbour but this ultimately didn’t happen due to a lack of funds. He was awarded a knighthood in recognition of his work.

The lighthouse is visible at the Harbour, and can be reached via the one way system, along the Pier. The character of Donaghadee is intimately joined to its most well known landmark. Since its construction in 1836, the lighthouse has been a beacon of safety to mariners and a symbol of pride to the town’s inhabitants. It was regularly painted white and one of its painters in the 1950’s was Brendan

The Lighthouse & Harbour1

Behan, Irish poet, storywriter, novelist and playwright. His father was a house painter!

From its lofty parapet, there’s a seagull’s eye view of the harbour and town. However, access to the interior of the monument is strictly prohibited to the public.

The cut limestone blocks of the lighthouse came from Anglesey, North Wales. Although built with sailing ships in mind, the harbour was still being used to import coal from Cumbria long after ferries had gone. Look around and you will notice that the tracks of the railway line carrying the coal wagons are still there.

(Be careful of the uneven surface under foot as the harbour is cobbled and there are no barriers along the harbour).

Watch out for the warping rings, the large hoops on the ground at the harbour to show that it was built for sailing ships. Boats “warped” out of their moorings using rings and winches.

Pages 4 – 5

Let’s begin the walking trail

The Lighthouse & Harbour

Donaghadee Walking Guide

The Copelands

It was once extensively farmed by families who lived year-round on the island, but in the 1930’s most decided to move to the mainland, tired of being cut off by winter storms. These days, the deserted island is home to colonies of sea birds and seals. Recently pheasant and partridges have been introduced, where they flourish because there are few predators. At times sheep are brought over to graze on lush pastures.

Big Isle is privately owned, but there are no restrictions on visitors and it’s a favourite spot for yachtsmen. During the summer months, there is a regular boat service from Donaghadee harbour for tourists. For more details on times, contact Ards Tourist Information Centre on 028 9182 6846.

The Copeland Islands2

Further out is Mew Island, a flat area on which there is a powerful lighthouse guiding ships using the North Channel. There have been between 50 and 100 shipwrecks off the coast and many more close shaves. Mew Island lighthouse has saved countless lives over the years. It started as a brazier in 1715 before moving to an actual light in 1884. The light is now fully automated and is one of the most powerful in the world.

In addition to the lighthouse, there are several lighthouse keepers’ cottages and other buildings. The third island is known by several names including Cross Island, John’s Island and Lighthouse Island!

From the Harbour, you will see the Copeland Islands, approximately 20 minutes away by boat. There are three islands in the Copeland group. The largest, and the one which can be seen from Donaghadee, is known as Big Isle or Great Copeland, and covers more than 300 acres.

Pages 6 – 7

The Lifeboat

Turning back towards the town, the lifeboatstation is visible on the left hand sidebefore Pier 36. It has been based heresince 1910. One of the most famouslifeboats stationed in Donaghadee was theSir Samuel Kelly, which hit the headlineswhen it rescued survivors from the carferry MV Princess Victoria when it sank inthe North Channel on 31 January 1953during fierce storms. The ferry was makingits crossing from Stranraer in Scotlandto Larne, a journey of some twenty miles.Heavy seas forced open the ship’s cardoors and the vehicles inside broke loose

The Lifeboat3

which resulted in the boat tipping on itsside. The RAF and RNLI were involved inthe search which proved very challengingdue to the exceptionally bad weather.

The 43 survivors were brought back tothe Imperial Hotel, located on the Pier inDonaghadee, and the lifeboat crew werehighly commended and awarded for their efforts.

To explore more about the history and workof the Royal National Lifeboat Institution(RNLI) please visit www.rnli.org.uk

Donaghadee Walking Guide

Moving along the pier towards the town centre, we pass the lifeboat house and also the social club which was previously home to the town’s railway station. Hotels such as the Railway, Eagle, Commercial and Arthur’s lined this street in close proximity to the harbour and railway. In spring 1861 a new rail track was built for the Belfast and Co.Down Railway Company by Edwards of Dublin for £50000. Before the

Pier 36 and the Old Railway4

railway line the journey to Belfast took 5 or 6 hours but after June 1861 this was reduced to 40 minutes. Next stop is Pier 36 which was once a coaching hotel and is now a guesthouse, restaurant, bar and local information point, providing a wide range of visitor guides and information which can be accessed in the entrance hall.

To enter the old quarter of Donaghadee, take a left turn into Manor Street. The street names are a nostalgic reminder of the industries which once thrived here; Saltworks Street, Gas Works Street and

The Old Quarter5

Railway Street. Here too is Meetinghouse Street where the first Presbyterian congregation gathered during the 17th century Ulster-Scots plantation.

Pages 8 – 9

Once at the top of Manor Street, turn left briefly to admire the Admiral Leslie Hall, built by Mrs Martin Leslie in 1872, in memory of her husband, Rear Admiral Leslie. It was used as a girls’ school until the 1950’s and a portion of her bequest was invested so that 30 of the most deserving girls could receive a free education. All other pupils had to pay to learn and on Monday mornings the children brought their penny contribution towards the schoolteacher’s wages.

The Admiral Leslie Hall6

Beside the Admiral Leslie hall stands the Prospect House, a large two storey gabled town house, probably dating from around the 1760’s. It was depicted on the Daniel Delacherois map of Donaghadee in the 1780’s. Local stories tell that one of the owners decided that instead of selling the house, it would be better if it became the grand prize in a raffle. Tickets were sold at a shilling each and the lucky winner was handed the title deeds, hence giving it the name Shilling House.

Pier 36 and the Old Railway

Donaghadee Walking Guide

Just a little further on is Rosebank, one of the oldest houses in Donaghadee. It is a fine five bay, two storey house, with wing bays at each end. Admiral Samuel Leslie of the Royal Navy resided here from 1843 – 1846 and a Martha Leslie leased it from Daniel Delacherois in 1863.

In the 20th century, the tradition remained as it continued to be rented out and was then commandeered as army quarters during World War II. When the building was acquired by the present owners in 1969, it was largely derelict and in a state of disrepair. Since then much of its original fabric has been restored.

On the right of the main door a blue plaque of the Ulster Historical Circle is mounted to commemorate Sarah Grande. Sarah Grande was born Frances Elizabeth Bellenden Clarke in Rosebank House. Her father was Edward John Bellenden Clarke (1813-1862) and her mother was Margaret Bell Sherwood (1813-1874). When her father died, her mother took her and her siblings back to Brighton, England to be near her family where she was originally from. Sarah was sent to English boarding school at fourteen and at sixteen eloped with thirty-nine year-old naval surgeon, David Chambers McFall. They had one son, David Archibald Edward and lived in the Far East, Norwich and Warrington before separating after which Sarah moved to London to pursue her own career.

Rosebank House7

Her first book, “Two Dear Little Feet” was published in 1873. Her novel “The Heavenly Twins” (the first of what came to be known as ‘new woman’ novels), published under the pseudonym Sarah Grand was rejected by numerous publishers because of the frank way it dealt with the effects of the spread of syphilis from men to their wives and children. When eventually published in 1893 it created a sensation and was reprinted six times in its first year. It was condemned on moral grounds but defended by Mark Twain and George Bernard Shaw. The novel changed Frances’ life and created the new persona, Sarah Grand (often called Madame Grand), the matriarch, the beautiful female prophet.

Her later works include Our Manifold Nature (1894), short stories; Adnam’s Orchard (1912) and The Winged Victory (1916). Her autobiographical novel, Beth Book: A Woman of Genius (1897) sold 20,000 copies in its first week.

She was an active member of the Suffragette movement, lecturing in America. Mark Twain and George Bernard Shaw both held her in high regard. She moved to Bath in 1920 and was Lady Mayoress on six occasions between 1922 and 1929.

In 1942, when a bomb damaged her home, she moved to Caine, Wiltshire where she died on 12 May 1943. She is buried in Lansdown Cemetery, Bath.

Pages 10 – 11

At this point, you have the option of extending your tour along Millisle Road to Donaghadee Commons. The Commons is a public park and recreation grounds on the southern side of the town. Facilities available at this site during the summer include an aire de service stop for motor homes, tennis courts, bowling green and pitch and putt. You can walk from the Commons car park back into the

town along the seafront, passing by the Donaghadee Community Centre. This walk will take approximately 15 minutes. At Coalpit Bay beside the Commons, you may be lucky to find a fossil of one of the oldest organisms known in Ireland, a graptolite. This fossil which can resemble fine pencil markings dates from the Silurian period some 410-420 million years ago.

Retracing your steps back from Rosebank towards High Street, you will note Donaghadee Masonic Hall on your left hand side just at the junction with Killaughey Road. It is a relatively small, typical late Victorian redbrick and sandstone building with gothic revival features and built by the firm JJ Philips and Son 1898-1899.

Looking across from the Masonic Hall into Killaughey Road, you will see on the right hand side of the road, Café Manor, which is home to an ancient walled garden. Continue down High Street and you will

Manor House8

see The Manor House on your right. This important building was the first stone house built in the town around 1605 by the Montgomery family, whose leading light became Viscount Montgomery. His successors, the Earls of Mount Alexander, were the towns landlords until 1771 when Marie Angelique, wife of the 5th and final Earl, died leaving her lands and property to her descendants, the Delacherois family (a French Hugenot family who moved to Northern Ireland after persecution in France).

If you feel like stretching your legs some more, you can continue along the Killaughey Road, taking the turn on your left after Cypress Park into Hunts Park. In Hunts Park you will note the water tower. The tower was constructed

by the Donaghadee Urban District Council around 1912 and provided the town with its first mains water supply. This tall prominent cylindrical tower (topped with a large tank) is set on a slight rise.

Rosebank House

Donaghadee Walking Guide

If you continue back towards High Street and the town centre from Café Manor, you will note Grace Neill’s bar and restaurant on the left hand side of High Street. It claims to be the oldest pub in Ireland and dates back to 1611. Grace was born Grace Jamieson and married John Neill in 1817. One of their wedding presents was the inn, named the Kings Arms. John died in 1866 and the venue then became known as Grace Neill’s.

In more recent years, unexplained events have taken place, leading staff of the premises to claim that Grace Neill herself haunts the venue. Many members of staff have witnessed unexplained events

Grace Neill’s9

including scattering of books and glasses throughout the bar. The inexplicableoccurrences and curious creaking of floorboards above the old tavern have culminated in an actual sighting of a Victorian lady, contained within a ‘puff’ of smoke. (Take care with the steps into the entrance and the low doorways).

Proceeding up the hill after High Street becomes Moat Street and you reach Donaghadee Parish Church. This site has been a centre of worship since ancient times. St Patrick first marked it as a place for Christian worship and erected a stone building. A more substantial building was erected by John de Courcy, and this was rebuilt in 1626.

The four sided clock on the tower was installed in memory of Mrs Daniel

Donaghadee Parish Church11

Delacherois and was said to keep time so accurately that the ships captains relied on it rather than on their own chronometers.

In the graveyard lie the remains of the Delacherois and other local families. The earliest gravestones date from 1660 with one to the memory of William Scott, a mariner. This was the main town graveyard until 1947 when a new one was built at Ballyvester.

Further down the hill is the Methodist Church with a prominent octagonal dome, marking the spot where John Wesley (founder of the Methodist

Methodist Church10

Church) once preached. The present building dates from 1909, but there has been a Methodist Society in Donaghadee since 1790, and a chapel since 1813.

Donaghadee Parish Church Pages 12 – 13

Donaghadee Walking Guide

Continuing up Moat Street, we come to the actual Moat (Motte) which overlooks the town from atop a commanding hill. Archaeologists believe the moat occupies the site of an even older rath/ ringfort. A visit to the fort is well worth the detour with a stepped walk up to the summit.

It may look like an ancient castle, but it was built in 1819. Stories claim that it was used to store the gunpowder used in the building of the harbour, but Rennie claimed that this was brought regularly from Belfast for safety reasons. Its lofty position offers magnificent views over Donaghadee Harbour, the Copeland Islands and as far as Portpatrick in Scotland.

Moat Street and the Motte12

Returning to Moat Street, we continue past the Moat Inn, once a Presbyterian manse, and catch a glimpse of the Manor Farm, another ancient and listed building, constructed in the French Huguenot style with a large courtyard. If you take the laneway almost opposite the Manor Farm housing development you come to New Road, once known as Villa Road, with imposing houses dating back to Georgian Times. Going down New Road will return you to the shore.

Turning right, you pass Shore Street Presbyterian Church, where the congregation settled after a disagreement in 1812 with the minister, Rev. Skelly, over improper behaviour. Before the split, services were conducted in Meeting House Street.

Donaghadee Motte

Pages 14 – 15

Continue along the shore to New Street, another important shopping area where most of the old houses have been turned into shops and offices. Halfway up is the old Market House, later used as the town’s courthouse. A few steps further and you reach High Street and the end of the trail.

Old Market House14

Opposite the church is a row of red brick coastguard cottages built in the 1860’s when Donaghadee was a main coastguard base. Beside the cottages is East Street, once known as Bullock Road because it was here that cattle were herded down to the shore for shipment to Scotland.

The walk back to the harbour skirts the sandy bay and at low tide, it’s an easy

Coastguard Cottages13

walk out to the breakwater or North Pier. There is a flight of steps leading to the top of the pier. At Donaghadee Sailing Club, dinghies are parked on the site of a former hotel. To your right is Union Street, once known as Tanners’ Row and later as Sailors’ Row.

Donaghadee Walking Guide

For more information contact any of the following Visitor Information Centres:

Ards Visitor Information Centre31 Regent StreetNEWTOWNARDSBT23 4ADS 028 9182 6846k tourism@ards-council.gov.uk

(Seasonal office Easter – end August)Portaferry Visitor Information Centre The Stables, Castle StreetPORTAFERRYBT22 1NZS 028 4272 9882k tourism.portaferry@ards-council.gov.uk

Please NoteThis document may be available in alternative formats on request.

Ards Borough Council presents the information as a public service, and while every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, the Council cannot accept responsibility and assumes no liability for any action undertaken by any person using the information contained herein. The content of this guide is copyright of Ards Borough Council and should not be reused without permission.

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