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Location: West City Campus

3249 Fordham Street

San Diego, CA 92110

Room 209

ALL My Syllabi are ALWAYS subject to change.

First Day of Class: Print out this syllabus, the Patternmaking Glossary,

French Curve Set and Classroom Etiquette and take them to class. Bring your

USB to every class.

Mission Statement for Hospitality and Consumer Science: Students completing courses or programs in Continuing Education’s Hospitality and Consumer Sciences

department will gain knowledge and skills in any of the possible subject matter offerings (foods / nutrition /

culinary arts / hospitality / fashion production / fashion merchandising / textiles / interior design / life

management / consumer issues and personal development) in order to positively affect one’s quality of life.

SDCE Student Learning Outcomes: Fashion Department Student Learning Outcome:

Students completing a fashion or fashion production course or program will be able to understand and apply

concepts, technologies, related skills and techniques by successfully completing class projects in order to

prepare for fashion careers.

Course Student Learning Outcome:

Students will demonstrate their Fundamentals of Patternmaking course learning and competencies by drafting

and using their five piece Master Dress Sloper to pattern and construct a garment from their text book.

Fundamentals of Patternmaking

Spring 2016 – Full Semester Course Feb 8, 2016 – June 6, 2016

Mondays 1 - 5 PM

Instructor: Joan McKenna mckenna@gothere.com

619-588-2244 www.sewalongwithjoanie.com

Drafting for Flat Pattern Manipulation

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Course Goals: Upon successful completion of the course the student will be able to:

1. Embrace industry specific nomenclature, reading, writing, math, communication and teamwork skills used to

interact successfully with employers, customers, family and friends

2. Evaluate and problem solve using drafting and flat pattern manipulation methods and techniques.

3. Combine drafting and flat pattern manipulation skills with other forms of patternmaking to attain the most

efficient way of designing a garment.

4. Assess information on entry level employment opportunities in the apparel and costume industry

5. Synthesize drafting and flat pattern manipulation skills for an entrepreneurial sewn product business

venture, family, friends and personal use.

Course Objectives: Students will demonstrate their class acquired learning and competencies through practical applications, plus

written and oral communications. At the end of the course, with reasonable attendance, the student should be

able to demonstrate the ability to:

1. Define, describe, and demonstrate drafting and flat pattern manipulation nomenclature, basic patternmaking

tools and techniques.

2. Measure a dress form or doll and convert the measurements into a well-fitting sloper using one or more

patternmaking techniques.

3. Create 2 sloper sets illustrating the new drafting and flat pattern manipulation skills acquired in class.

4. Use the principles of drafting to understand how to flat pattern manipulate patterns from our text book.

5. Perceive and review their newly acquired skill, throughout the course, by completion of assigned project(s).

6. Demonstrate time saving equipment and techniques used in pattern production, such as but not limited to:

planning, organizing, and sequencing.

7. Identify skills that are transferable to the career market including but not limited to: research,

communication, diplomatic teamwork, and patternmaking competencies.

8. Ascertain career possibilities in the sewn product industry for a novice patternmaker.

Method of Instruction: Methods of Instruction may include, but are not limited to: classroom lectures, classroom discussions,

collaborative learning, peer training, demonstrations, internet resource websites and links for research, software

programs, books on disk, text books, library building books, written information handouts, audio-visual

presentations, fandango field trips, guest speakers, completion of portfolios, personalized attention, and student

projects. To get Individualized Help: Write your name on the white board in descending order under the word

"Help."

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Patternmaking Student Syllabus and Needs List ….15 classes…..

Class 1 – First Day of Class. Check out the wall: 101 Steps to Produce a (1) Style for Retail Sale.

Introductions. Computer online registration. Use your CSIDS number. Student Learning Outcome

Sheets. Tools and Equipment supplied by the School. Things you need to supply. The Syllabus. Classroom

Etiquette. Fandango Field Trips. The Glossary. The French Curves. This is an advanced course. Handouts

and resources on your USB. Cutting in room 209. Keep up with assignments. Homework. TLC for the

school’s machines. Signing out Sewing Machines to use. Measuring for ½ size Master Sloper patterns.

Required text. Receiving help and learning from each other. Email your absences to me. Cleaning up at end

of EACH class. Today’s Lesson: What are you getting into and why????? (Always Remember: There are

many ways to do things. NEVER expect any two sewers, or patternmakers to agree on technique.)

Homework: Finish printing everything. Cut your French Curves and double laminate the French curve

patterns that you feel you will need. See how the instructor did it. Order your text book.

If you download and print the syllabus before the first day of class…..Feel free to join us:

FANDANGO: Saturday February 6, 2016 - Field Trip to Yardage Town, and Central Sewing in

El Cajon with Joan McKenna. Remember to bring your supply money.

9:30 AM - Yardage Town. 1043 Broadway. El Cajon. 92021. Phone: 619-444-3208. Do NOT buy Serger Thread here. Buy woven inexpensive Light Denim, Woven Interfacing, some supplies. it is a good idea to buy your pattern: McCall’s 6972 – Adult Size. 11 AM - Central Sewing East. 1125 North Second Street. El Cajon. 92021. Phone: 619-447-3244. To buy: Corner Template, Simflex, Mechanical Chalk Pencil, Bobbins, Schmetz Needles. ? Lunch ? MJ’s Family Restaurant 576 North 2nd Street. El Cajon, CA 92021 (619) 444-1902 http://mjsfamilyrestaurant.com/

El Cajon Bistro. 109 Jamacha Road, El Cajon, CA 92019 (619) 590-0278. www.elcajonbistro.com

Monday, February 15 - Washington’s Birthday Holiday. No Class.

Class 2 – Measure for your ½ size Master Sloper patterns: ½ size prep. Measure both sides of the form.

(Usually not identical.) Use the bigger measurement. This will be done in groups of 3 or 4. Use a fairly new or

new tape measure.

Class 3 – Draft the bodice front sloper on pattern paper. Tape and try on the fit model. Finish up as homework.

Class 4 – Draft the bodice back sloper on pattern paper. Tape and try on the fit model. Finish up as

homework.

Class 5 – Draft the sleeve sloper on pattern paper. Tape and try on the fit model. “True up” your drafted

sleeve to the front and back bodice. Finish up as homework.

Class 6 – Draft the skirt front and back sloper on pattern paper. Because this is half size, we will be drafting the

one dart sloper skirt, but using the directions for the 2 dart skirt on page 56. Tape and try on the fit model. True

up your skirt patterns. Finish up as homework. Now you have 5 trued up, test fitted drafted pattern slopers to

show your instructor for a grade.

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Spring Break. March 28th

– April 1. No Class.

Class 7 & 8 – There’s got to be an easier way !!!!!! This is the day to learn the OTHER way. Let’s drape the

dress form/fit model to get our slopers.

Saturday, April 16th

, 2016 Fandango Field Trip to the LA Garment District with Sew Pros. $50 to ride their

bus. It’s worth it !!!! Call Rosemary or Deana at the Clairemont Store for details: 858-279-2500. You can buy

the rest of your patternmaking supplies at ACE.

Class 9 & 10 - Conversion of drapes to draped paper slopers. Comparison to drafted paper slopers. Tape and

try on the fit model. “True up” your 4 sloper patterns. Make sure you true up your drafted sleeve sloper to the

draped sloper bodice patterns. Finish up as homework. Now you have 5 trued up, test fitted draped pattern

slopers to show your instructor for a grade.

Class 11 & 12 – Turn your 5 patterns into industry standard MASTER manila paper slopers. Your choice: the

drafted or the draped. Which one fits better??? Use correct pattern nomenclature on your manila paper slopers.

Show them to your instructor on a pattern hook, for comments and grading.

Monday, May 30, 2016. Memorial Day. No Class.

Class 13, 14 & 15 – Learn how to use your manila sloper patterns. Flat Pattern manipulation of a dress. Style

number 0508. Page 122. Keep everything for your portfolio. Yes, I want to see your work, for a grade.

Class 15 is the end of this class. I will teach Half Size Flat Pattern Manipulation during the summer. It is the

second module of this course. I will take pictures of you with your manila master patterns and your flat pattern

dress patterns. Keep everything for your portfolio and build upon the learning.

Basic Patternmaking Needs: (Hopefully this is complete) 4 GIG USB (Bring to EVERY CLASS !!!)

Variety of Pens and Pencils

REQUIRED Text Book

Paper Scissors

*Needlepoint Tracing Wheel

Double Corrugated Cardboard Mat. (At least 18 “ by 16”)/ or quilt mat.

*3 – 4 Pattern Hooks

Any religious object

*An awl

Adding machine tape

*1 yard of Manila 150 lb. Pattern Paper (Central Sewing)

Sharpie Ultra Fine Markers: Red, Blue, Black, and Green or Purple

¾ inch wide “Green” Magic Tape

Optional: Notcher: 1/16 inch wide by ¼ inch bite

*1 half size Fairgate ruler: 50-148 (Center Finding) OR 50-147 (True Half Size Ruler)

Double Laminated French Curves

6 inch C-Thru ruler

12 x 1 inch C-Thru ruler

18 x 2 inch C-Thru ruler that is broken (Only if you are lucky enough to have done this)

Weighted cord

Sewing Needs for Flat Pattern Manipulation Patternmaking Course: (Hopefully this is complete)

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I will be teaching the second part of the course this summer. In this course, you will be sewing up your

patterns to check the fit. I hope you all can join me.

One bobbin for a Pfaff 2036, or Bernina 130.

New or fairly new Tape Measure

Muslin or other inexpensive broadcloth

Fashion Fabric, Notions and supplies for final project

Access to a sewing machine

Matching Thread for Fashion Fabric

Straight pins

Basic Sewing Kit

Fabric Shears

Variety of Pens and Pencils

Thread Nippers or Scissors

Scrape Fabric

Nice to Own: ½ size dress form:

http://www.dressriteforms.com/ Not perfect…but a good deal.

http://www.pgmdressform.com/ http://www.wolfform.com/ Very Expensive Personal Roll of Pattern Paper: 15 to 18 inches wide.

Smart & Final Butcher paper.

White Wrapping Paper from Staples, Office Depot.

Required Text - Patternmaking

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers:

Juniors, Misses, and Women by Lori Knowles. Copyright: 2005.

ISBN # 1-56367-328-2. New York, NY: Fairchild Publications.

Highly Recommended (These are the other texts I will use in the Patternmaking Program)

Amaden-Crawford, C. (Current Edition). The Art of Fashion Draping. New York, NY: Fairchild Publications.

Copyright: 2012

Check www.Amazon.com or the blog’s links page for more sites to buy texts.

Course Assessment A student’s completion/competency from this course will be based on multiple measures of performance.

Assessment will measure the development of independent critical thinking and demonstrable basic

patternmaking skills. Final course evaluation of the student’s ability will be based on, but not limited to, the

following criteria:

1. Completion of a Student Learning Outcome self-evaluation form which evaluates the achievement of said

outcomes upon completion of the course.

2. Define, describe, and demonstrate drafting and flat pattern manipulation nomenclature, basic patternmaking

tools and techniques.

3. Measurement of a dress form or doll and convert the measurements into a well-fitting sloper using one or

more patternmaking techniques.

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4. Creation of 2 sloper sets illustrating the new drafting and flat pattern manipulation skills acquired in class.

5. Use of the principles of drafting to understand how to flat pattern manipulate patterns from our text book.

6. Perceive and review their newly acquired skill, throughout the course, by completion of assigned project(s).

7. Demonstrate time saving equipment and techniques used in pattern production, such as but not limited to:

planning, organizing, and sequencing.

8. Working on collaborative/group projects validating diplomatic teamwork.

9. Identifying employment, career and venture possibilities.

10. Student must attend 80% of all class hours per course. Missing more than 20% of the class hours of the

course will affect their learning and grade.

Future Classes and Events: April 16, 2016 - Sew Pro’s LA trip

May 2016 - Mesa Fashion Show

Summer 2016 - Half-Size Flat Pattern Manipulation Course

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Needs List & Notes for Measurement Taking for Full-Size Women

Text Used: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion

Needs List:

Fairly new Measuring Tape (One that has not stretched, yet.)

Crotch/Underarm Measuring Tape (If you can find one.)

2 yards Weighted Cord (Ends knotted so that lead shot will NEVER come out)

¼ inch elastic - cut into 4 pieces (Each piece must be the equivalent to hip measurement +

2 inches OR bust measurement + 2 inches…..WHICH EVER IS BIGGER !)

Quilt Quality Safety Pins – Size 2. Quantity: Around 30

Washable Magic Markers

Dressmaker’s Chalk

Yard Stick

Great Fitting Bra

Tight “T” shirt and Exercise Shorts or a Body Suit. (Will get MARKED UP.)

Pencils and Erasers

Calculator

Notes:

Lori Knowles did NOT write this book for zaftig women.

For each measuring team, you need: a Victim, a Measurement Taker, & a Scribe.

Try not to wear black.

No Shoes. Socks OK.

Garment seams ARE distracting.

Measure to the nearest 1/8 of an inch.

Give the VICTIM breaks or she will lose her posture.

Don’t baste any lines…..This is TOO detailed and a waste of time.

Choose your “biggest” side to measure: Right or Left. Front or Back.

Use Weighted Cord for plumb lines and curved lines.

Plan on spending ONLY 1 hour on each VICTIM.

You MUST finish each member of your “team” before YOU go home.

Prepping Live Models: Figure #

2.6 Use Weighted Cord

2.7 Measure Around the Bust – first

2.9 There are 2 hips: Stomach-HIGH HIP & Derriere-LOW HIP

2.10 Use Weighted Cord

2.11 This line is also called the Horizontal Balance Line. (HBL)

2.12 Use Weighted Cord

2.13 Use Weighted Cord. Mark entire underarm bodice side seam.

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Student Name: Date:

Women’s Measurements for Lori Knowles Text with Additions

Measurements were taken on the RIGHT / LEFT side of my body. (Circle One)

1. Shoulder Girth Level (Fig 2.15): ______

2. Total Upper Chest Level: ______

3. Total Bust Level: ______

Cup Size (page 42): ______

Bra Size (page 42): ______

4. Total Rib Cage Level: ______

5. Total Waist Level: ______

NOTE: Waists are not straight.

Total Front Waist: ______

Total Back Waist: ______

6. Shoulder Seam: ______

7. Half the Front Neckline: ______

Neckline Circumference: ______

8. CFront Neckline to Shoulder Tip: ______

9. Half the Front to Mid-Armhole: ______

10: Half the Front Upper Chest: ______

11. Half the Front Bust Level: ______

12. Half the Front Rib Cage Level: ______

13. Bust Span: ______

14. Half the Bust Span: ______

15. Half the Front Waist: ______

16. Half the Back Neckline: ______

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17: Center Back Neck to Shoulder Tip: ______

18. Halfway Across Shoulder Blades: ______

HBL from crease to crease: ______

19. Half the Back Upper Chest: ______

20. Half the Back Bust Level: ______

21: Half the Back Rib Cage Level: ______

22. Half the Back Waist: ______

23: Dart Placement (Measure This): ______

24: Side Seam Length: ______

25: High Neck to Front Side Seam: ______

26. High Neck to back Side Seam: ______

27. Center Front Length: ______

28: Front Total Length: ______

29. Shoulder Tip to Center Front Waist: ______

30: Shoulder Tip to Apex: ______

31. Bust Radius: ______

Areola Diameter: ______

32. Center Back Length: ______

33. Back Total Length: ______

→

34. Shoulder Tip to Center Back Waist: ______

Don’t Check Your Measurements –

KEEP MEASURING !

35. Total Arm Length: ______

(Hold Tape at Shoulder)

CB to Shoulder Tip, Down Arm,

Around Bent Elbow to Wrist: ______

(Men’s Arm Measurement)

36. Underarm Length: ______

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37. Forearm Length: ______

38: Biceps Circumference: ______

39: Elbow Circumference: ______

40: Wrist Circumference: ______

41: Hand Circumference: ______

Stomach & Derriere Circumference: ______

42: Total Low Hip Measurement: ______

Total High Hip Measurement: ______

Panty Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________

43: Low Hip Depth at Center Front: ______

High Hip Depth at Center Front: ______

44. Low Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______

High Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______

45. Low Hip Depth at Center Back: ______

High Hip Depth at Center Back: ______

46: Half the Front Low Hip: ______

Half the Front High Hip: ______

47. Half the Back Low Hip: ______

Half the Back High Hip: ______

56. Knee Level from Waist: ______

Stop here. We will NOT be doing pants. Not enough time.

48. Outseam/Side Seam to Floor: ______

49: Inseam to the Floor: ______

50: Crotch Depth: ______

(Sit straight on a flat surface

& measure depth at side seam)

51. Outseam to Ankle: ______

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52. Inseam to Ankle: ______

53. Crotch Length: ______

Front Crotch Length: ______

Subtract FCL from #53 to get the following:

Back Crotch Length: ______

54. Total Thigh Circumference: ______

Mid-Knee Circumference: ______

(With straight leg)

55. Total Calf Circumference: ______

56. Knee Level from Waist: ______

57: Knee Level to Ankle Level: ______

58: Total Ankle Circumference: ______

59: Foot Circumference: ______

Head Circumference: ______

(Where hat sits)

Hat Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________

Don’t Check Your Measurements –

Change Jobs & Keep Measuring !

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