116

Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

  • Upload
    others

  • View
    1

  • Download
    0

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

Page 1: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 2: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 3: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 4: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

DRESS

GENTLEM

8 MA ESTY’

S

AND ON

OC CASIONS OF C EREMONY

COLLECTED FROM OFFIC IAL SOURC ES W ITH THE SANCTION OF THE

LORD CHAMBERLAIN .

NEW EDITION, REVJSED AND ENLAR GE'

D. ILLUSTRATED.

EDITED BY H. GRAHAM BENNET.

LONDON

HARRISON SONS, 59, PALL MALL, S.W.,

BOOKSELLERS TO THE KING.

Page 5: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 6: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

GREAT Care has been taken to make this book co rrect in all

deta ils, bu t in the case of any inaccuracy or omission being ob served,it is

requested that info rmation be addressed to th e Editor, gate of

Messrs. Har rison’s, Pall Mall, andmar , Dress at c ourt. Off

the Envelope.

Page 7: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 8: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

GO N T E N

Attendan ce at Levées, Ru les fo rA ttendan c e at C o u rtsScale o f General o r Soc ialPrecedenc eFr o ck DressWindsor Un iformHis Majesty’s Ho useh o ldOffic ers o f Orders o f Kn igh tho odThe C ivil Servic ePrivy C ou n c illorsHM. Dip lomatic ServiceH.M. C on su lar ServiceThe C orp s Diplom atiqu eVic eroys, Governors-General, High C omm issioners, Governors,tenan t-Governors, C o lonialSecretaries, &c .

The EarlMarshalThe Master of th e HorseN aval andMilitary Equerries andA ides-de-CampKings ofA rms, Heralds

,andPu rsu ivan ts

Pag es o fHonou rGen tlemen rat Arm sThe Y eomen o f the GuardH.M. Royal Body-Gu ardo fSco ttish ArchersBis-h ops andC lergyChap lains to th e KingJudic ial andLegalHou se ‘

o f Lo rdsHo use o f C ommo n s

Serjeants-a t -Arm s

Army andNavyY eom anry, Militia , andVo lu nteersLo rds Lieu tenant of CountiesLieu ten an ts fo r the C ity of Lo ndo nDep u ty Lieu tenants andVice Lieu tenan ts of CountiesThe Lo rdW arden of the C inqu e Por tsVice Adm iral o fUlsterTower of LondonMilitary Kn igh ts of W indsor

PAGE

Page 9: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

vi CON TENTS.

Royal Hosp italsTh e Corporation of the Trinity Ho u se

The LordMayor of LondonLordMayors andMayorsThe Sheriffs of LondonC ity MarshalMetropo litan Po liceCou rt DressRoyal Academic iansHighlandDressPeers’ Rob es.Orders, Decorations, a ndMedalsC ollar DaysCou rt Mou rn ingSalu tes andHonou rsHints on W earing Uni-fo rHints on Care of Un iform

RAGE

Page 10: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

Fk ona rsMEQE.

Dep u ty Lie u tenan ts

Page 11: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 12: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

RE GULATIONS FOR [ESTY’S LE VEES. 9

LORD CHAMBERLAIN’S OFFICE,ST. JAMES’S PALACE,

1 2 th Febr u ary, 1 90 3.

R EGULATIONS FOR HIS MA J ESTY ’S LEVEEs.

In future, at allLevées, which will b e held at twelve o ’clock no on ,instead o f tw o o

’clock as heretofo re, Cards of Admission will b erequired, whether for Presenta tion o r Attendan ce

,as th e numbers at

each o f these Ceremon ies must b e limited.

Th e fo llowing are th e rules to b e observed

ATTENDANCES AND PRESENTATIONS.( I) Allofficers, whether on th e active or retired lists, o f the Royal

Navy and the RoyalMarines, of whatever rank, will communicatewith and obtain their cards from th e Private Secretary to th e FirstLo rd o f the Admiralty. Allcivil officers of th e Admiralty w illfo llow th e same rule.

(2 ) Alloflic ers, whether on the active or retired lists , of the Army,Militia, Yeomanry, o r Vo lun teers, o f whatever rank, except tho se on

th e Indian and Co lon ial establishments, will communicate with andobta in their cards from the Adj utant-General at th elVar Office.

(3) Alloflic ers of th e Indian Civil Service and of the IndianA rmy, o f whatever rank, whether o n th e active o r retired l ists, willcommunicate with andobtain their cards from the Private Secretaryto the Secretary of State, at th e Indian Office, Whitehall .

(4) Allofiic ers of th e Co lonial Service andCo lonial Fo rces, ofwhatever rank, whether on the active o r retired lists, willcommunicatew ith andobtain their cards from th e Co lon ialOffice, Whitehall, withthe exception ofOfiic ers of the lo cal Fo rces of th e Co lon ies po ssessingrespo nsible Governmen t, w ho will apply to the War Oflic e for theircards fo r attendan ce o r fo r presen tatio n by the Adjutant-General.Th e application must in allcases b e suppo rted by a creden tial fromthe Governo r or Ofiicer Commanding the local Fo rces of th e Co lony.

Page 13: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

lo DRESS WORN A T COURT.

(5) Similarly, allGentlemen connectedwith th e Fo reign Office, th eHome Office, Officials connected with th e Houses Of Parliament o rany Government Department, will communicate with andObtain theircards fo r attendance o r presen tation at Levées from th e Departmentunder which they serve .

(6) Judges, Law o fficers, K ing’s Counsel, and allLegal Officials

ho lding appo intments under th e Crown, are requestedto make theirapplications through th e Secretary to th e Lo rdChancello r.

(7) Peers, Bishops, Members o f Parliament, Clergy of allDen om inatiOn s, and allgentlemen o ther than th e above—mentioned, will b e

go od enough to communicate with th e Lo rd Chamberlain at St .

James"s Palace, when they will each b e furnished with a card o f

admission fo r u se at th e Levée.

Th e names, bo th fo r attendance andpresentation, must b e receivedat th e various Offices above indicatedn o t later than eight days prio rto th e date of each Levée, except in th e case of Officers w h o m akeapplication to th e W ar Office, where, owing to th e large number o fapplications to b e dealt with , fourteen days befo re the date of eachLevée will b e required.

Page 14: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

LORD CHAMBERLAIN ’

S OFFICE,"

ST. JAMES’S PALACE,ja n u a ry 1 st

,1 90 3.

R EGULATIONS FOR THEIR MAJESTIES’

COURTS.

A ttendance and Presentatio n at Court will b e by Invita tiononly , co nveyedthrough th e Lo rdChamberlain .

Ladies w h o have already been presented at Court and w h o are

desirous o f being invited to these Courts are requested to send intheir names, together with tho se o f their husbands, if they have beenpresented, to th e Lo rd Chamberlain’s Office

, St . James’s Palace, assoon as p ossible. Should they desire to make a presentation, th ename of the Lady to b e presentedshouldb e sent in at the same time .

Th e Lo rd Chamberlain will b e g lad if Ladies will state, in addition,when it will b e mo st convenient to

'

them to pay their respects toTheir Majesties .

Gentlemen w h o come in attendance o n their families are n o t

expectedto pass the Presence .

A Lady w h o makes a presentation to Their Majesties must b epersonally acqua intedwith andresponsible fo r the Lady sh e presents.Sh e must, herself, attendth e Court, and canno t present m o re thano n e Lady in addition to h er daughter o r daughter-in -law .

The Courts will b e heldin the evening .

Th e Dress Regulations are — Ladies : Full Court Dress withfeathers andtrains . Gentlemen Full Court Dress .

N .B .— The fo llowing no tice w as published by autho rity o n

February r 1 th , 1 90 1

“ The Lo rd Chamberlain is autho rised by the K ing to g ive no ticethat Ladies and Gentlemen w ho have been presented at DrawingR o oms andLevées heldduring th e reign ofHer late Majesty QueenVicto ria, will n o t require to b e again presen ted to Their Majestie stheK ing and

'Queen .

"

Page 15: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

1 3 DRESS IVORN AT COURT.

SCALE OF G EN ERAL OR SOC IAL PRECEDEN CE .

Th e preceden ce here indicatedis that which is kn own as generalo r social preceden ce, and is admitted o n alloccasions and in allsociety. Th e Clergy, the Bar, th e Military, and o ther classes haveamong st themselves a certain relative rank but such relative rank ispeculiar to each of these classes, and g ives them n o po sition on the

general or social st ale.

The K ing.

The Prin ce ofWales.The K ing

’s younger Son s.Grandson s.Bro thers.Uncles.Nephew s (Bro thers

’andSisters’ Son s).

Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of allEngland.

Lo rdHigh Chancello r, o r Lo rd Keeper, if a Peer.Archbishop ofYo rk, Primate of Eng land.

Lo rdChan cello r of Ireland.

Lo rdHigh Treasurer.Lo rdPresident of the Privy Coun cil. If Peers.Lo rd Privy Seal.Lo rdGreat Chamberlain*

Lo rdHigh Constable.Earl Marshal.Lo rdHigh Admiral .Lo rdSteward ofHisMajesty’s Househo ld.

Lo rd Chamberlain of His Majesty’s Househo ld.

Dukes of England.

Dukes of Sco tland.

LordGreat Chamberlain , w h en in actu alperformance of official du ty.

Page 16: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

SCALE OF P'RECEDEN CE . 1 3

Dukes ofGrea t Brit ain .

Dukes of“ Ireland.

Dukes of th e United K in g dom and Dukes o f Ireland, createdsince th e Un ion .

Eldest So ns of Dukes of th e BloodR oyal,Marquesses o f Eng land.

Marquesses of Sc o tland.

Ma rquesses of Great Brita in .

Marqu esses of Ireland.

Marquesses of th e United K ingdom Marquesses Irelandt reatedsince t he Union .

Dukes‘eldest son s .Earls of Eng land.

Earls of Sco tland.

Earls o f Great Br ita-ih .

Earls of the United K ingdom and Earls of Ireland,t he Un ion .

Youn ger Sons o f Dukes of the B loodRoyal.

Marquesses’ eldest Sons.

Duke s’ younger Son s .

Visco unts of England.

V iscounts ofSco tland.

Viscounts of Great Brita in

Visco u nts of Ireland.

Viscoun ts of th e Un ited K ingdom Viscounts Ireland,since the Union .

Earls’ elde st Sons .

Marquesses’ younger Son s .

Bishop of London .

of Durham .

ofWinchester .

Other English Bishops“

according to sen iority of Consecrat ion .

Page 17: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

1 4 p r ess WORN AT c owar .

Irish Bishops (consecrated befo re th e passing of th e Dises tablishment Ac t) acco rding to their senio rity of Co nsecration .

*

Secretary of State and Chief Secretary to th e Lo rd-Lieutenant o f

Ireland, if a Baron .

Barons of England.

Barons of Sco tland.

Barons o f Great Brita in .

Barons of Ireland.

Barons of th e United K ingdom, Baron s of Ireland, created sincethe Union , andLo rds o f Appeal in Ordinary.

Speaker of th e House of Commons .Commissioners of th e Great Seal .Treasurer of th e Househo ld.

Comptro ller of th e Househo ld.

Master of th e Ho rse.

Vice—Chamberlain o f the Househo ld.

Secretaries of State and Chief Secretary to the Lo rd-Lieutenant o fIreland, being under th e deg ree of a Baron .

Viscoun ts’ eldest So ns.Earls’ younger Sons.Barons’ eldest So ns .Knights of the Garter.Privy Coun cillo rs.

Her Majesty Qu een Victoria w as p leasedto approve of a. Ru le of Pre

ceden ce app licab le to Irelandbywhich , for th e fu tu re, allPrelates of the Pro testan tEpisc opalian Chu rch in Ireland, andallPrelates of the Rom an Catho lic Ch u rchin Ireland, are to have precedence as h ereafter set forth, viz . , allArchb ishop s ofthe Pro testan t Ep iscopalian Chu rch in Ireland, and allRom an C atho lic Archb ish ops in Ireland, are to h ave in Ireland th e precedence wh ich b elong edt oArch b ishops of th e Estab lish edChu rch of Ireland b efore th e passing of th e Ir ishCh u rch Ac t , 1 869, andare to take rank in fer so ac cordin g to the dates of c onsec ration as Archb ish op o r translation , as th e case may b e, th e Primates of bo thC h u rches having prio r precedence am ong st su ch Archb ish ops, andthat allBishopsof th e Pro testant Ep iscopa lian Chu rch in Ireland, andallRoman Catho lic Bish o psin Ireland, are to have in Irelandthe preceden c e wh ich b elo ngedto Bishops of th eEstab lish edChu rch of Irelandb efore th e passing of th e Irish Ch u rch Act, 1 869,

andto take rank in ter se according to th e dates o f C on secratio n . The forego ingru les are no t in any w ay to in terfere with th e rights o f preceden ce secu redto th eArchb ishop andBisho ps of the late Estab lished Church of Irelandby th e I3th

sec tion of the saidAc t .

Page 19: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

I6 DRESS IVORIV A T COURT

Judges of Co unty CourtsSerjean ts-at-law .

Masters in Lunacy (pursuan t to th e 8 and9 Vic .,c .

Compan ions of th e Bath .

Compan ions of th e Star of India .

Companion s of St . Michael andSt . Geo rge.

Compan ions o f th e Order of th e Indian Empire.

Members of th e Fourth Class of th e Royal Victo rian Order.Compan ion s of th e D istinguishedService Order.Eldest Son s of th e younger Sons o f Peers.Baron ets’ eldest Son s.E ldest Sons of Knights of the Garter.Bannerets’ eldest Sons.Eldest Son s of Knights, according to their fathers

’ precedence.

Members of th e Fifth Class of th e Royal Victorian Order.Baron ets’ younger Sons.Knights

’ younger Sons.Esquires.Gen tlemen .

(a ) Her Majesty Qu een Victoria w as p leased, bywarran t dated 1 2 Oc t. , 1 885,

to declare that th e Judges of th e Cou n ty C ou rts in Ireland shall b e each c alled,kn own, andaddressedb y the style and title of His Ho n o u r, prefixedto th ewo rd Judge b efo re h is nam e, andth at th e saidJudges of th e C ou n ty Cou rts o fIrelandshall h ave th e same prec eden c e as th at ac corded to th e C ounty Cou rtJudg es of England andW ales. b u t as c ertain legal fun ction aries h old rank inIrelandby an c ien t u sage the Irish C ou nty Cou rt Judges are p lac edafter them .

These legal fu n c tio n aries are th e Judge of the High C ou rt o f Admiralty, th eAttorney-Gen era l, th e So lic itor-General, the Serjeants-at-Law , and the Judges o fthe Court of Bankrup tcy .

Page 20: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

FROCA’

DRESS. 1 7

FR OC K DR ESS.

FRo c K DRESS is wo rn at D inners andEvening Parties (Balls o rReceptions) where un ifo rm is n o t wo rn, andcon sists of

EVEN ING DRESS COAT.

EVEN ING DRESS VEST.

BREECHESAND BLACK SILK STOCKINGS OR BLACK PANTALOONS.

WH ITE NECKTIE.

The Star and Broad R ibando f an Order and the badge Of an

O rder wo rn on a riband ro und th e neck, will b e wo rn by tho seentitled. Other Deco rations and Medals are wo rn in miniature.

(See pages 83Th e DRESS COAT islappelledandm ay b e faced with s ilk.

The BREECHES are made Of plain Black Even ing Dress Material, andhave three small black clo th o r silk buttons at the kn ees, andsmal l jet buckles o r a black buckle covered by tie ends of

black ribbon .

PANTALOONS aremade of plain Black Even ing Dress Material, andreach to th e ankles.

PLA IN COURT SHOES with bows are wo rn , n o buckles.An OPERA HAT or HIGH SILK HAT should b e used with this o rder

of dress.

A Black INVERNESS CAPE o r OPERA CLOAK, o r a long full darkOVERCOAT should b e wo rn .

A White EVEN ING DRESS Bow N ECKTIE is alw ays wo rn with thiso rder of dress, andWhite Gloves.

Th e B ish o p s and Cler gy wear Frock Dress as described inClergy,

"

Pages 44—45

Th e Am b assado r and D iplom at ic Staff from th e UnitedStates and Switz erlan d are permitted to wear Fro ck Dressat Courts, State Bal ls, Sta te Con certs, &c . (See Co rpsDiplomatique," page

Page 21: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

IS DRESS WORA’ A T COURT.

W IN DSOR UN IFORM.

WORN ONLY AT W INDSOR‘

Th e WINDSOR UN IFORM is worn by th e R oyal Family andcertainOfficers o f th e Househo ld"& c .

,andconsists o f

EVEN IN G DRESS COAT of Blue Clo th, lappelled, andw ith co llar andcuffs (th e latter n o t to o broad) of Scarlet Clo th . Th e co llar hasno tched ends . There are three buttons a t th e cuff. Black Silklining s.

BUTTONS— Gilt mountedOf Garter Star within Garter, surmountedwith th e ImperialCrown .

Mo rnin g o r Evening Trousers andWa istcoat.

Th e Star andBroad R iband o f an Order, and the badge of an

Order worn o n a riband round the neck, will b e wo rn by tho seentitled. Other Deco ratio ns and Medals are wo rn in miniature.

Plain PATENT LEATHER BOOTS are “ mm with Trousers .

N .B .— Th e Evening Dress Of th e Governo rs of C o lonies andt he ir

Staff (see page 33) is sometim es erroneously described as Windso rUnifo rm .

Excep t th at W indsor Un iform is th e Offic ia l Dress of th e LordW arden o tth e Cit e Ports.

1" A list of Gen tlem en en titled to w ear th is u n ifo rm is k ep t a t th e Lord

Chamb erlain 's Of fic e.

Page 22: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

HIS [llAjESTY ’S HOUSEHOLD . 19

HIS MA J ESTY ’S HOUSEHOLD .

Th e schedules Of th e o fficers Of each departmen t Of th e R ‘

a l'

Ho useho ld entitled to wear th e unifo rm , have been arranged fromtime to time by Roya l Command, and canno t b e added to withoutth e K ing

’s express sanction .

There are five classes, of which th e Ist , 2 nd, and3rd have a ful ldress coat.

Th e 4th andsth Class have th e . same coat fo r Full Dress and

Levée Dress .

FULL DRESS is wo rn at Drawing R ooms,_Courts, State Balls,Sta te Con certs, & c .

LEVEE DRESS is wo rn at Levées ando ther ceremonies when FullDress is n o t wo rn .

Th e K ing has commanded that o fficers Of superio r Naval andMilitary rank in his Majesty

’s Househo ld, should have th e Option of

wearing Nava l o r Mil itary unifo rm .

FULL DRESS.

COAT fo r Ist,end, and 3rd Class. Blue Clo th, sing le breasted,

standco llar, th e c ollar andcuffs of scarlet clo th. po cket flaps ofblue cl'ozth , fronts to ho ok and eye, nine buttons on th e left side

andtw o at th e waist behind, andtw o at th e bo ttom of the backSkirts . W hite Silk lining s.

Go ldOakleaf Embro idery on th e fronts as fo llows

Ist Class, 5 inches wide.

and 4 andwith “saw edges .

3rd 3

The co llar, cuffs, pocke t flaps, back, skirts, and back- skirts are

embro ideredacco rding to Class.

BUTTONS— Gilt mounted, the Royal Arms with suppo rters.

Page 23: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

2 0 DRESS WORN AT COURT.

COAT fo r 4th Class and5th Class. (See Levée Dress, below. )White co llar o r white sto ck to b e wo rn inside th e co llar of th e Full

Dress Coat.BREECHES.

—White kerseymere with three covered buttons at the

knee andg ilt buckles.

STOCKINGS — White Silk.

SHOES — Black Patent Leather with g ilt buckles.HAT.

— Ist Class . Black Beaver Co cked Hat,black Silk cockade.

Treble go ldbullion lo op with tassel andhangers. White o strichfeather bo rder.

2 ndClass, as above, with double go ldbullion Io op, plain go ldtassels without hangers .

3rd, 4th , andsth Class, same as above, but with plait-cdgo ldbullionlo op andBlack o strich feather bo rder. NO tassels.

SWORD — OfRegulation pattern with black scabbardandg ilt mountings .‘

SWORD KNOT.—Go ldlace strap with bullion tassel.

SWORD BELT.— White w eb , wo rn over th e shoulder and under th e

coat — White clo th frog fo r swo rd.

G LOVES— White.

LEVEE DRESS.

C OAT— Blue Clo th, sing le b reasted, stand co llar. Th e co llar and

cuffs of scarlet clo th, pocket flaps of Blue Clo th. N inebuttons up the front (to button), and tw o at th e Waist behind.

Th e Ist , and, and 3rd Class have embro idery on th e Co llar,cuffs, flaps, and back th e same as th e full dress coat. Th e

4th and 5th Class have embro idery o n th e co llar,cuffs

,flaps

,

and back acco rding to rank. Gilt mounted buttons of RoyalArms (without Suppo rters) surmoun ted by th e Imperial Crown .

Black Silk lining s.

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th with stripes of Go ld Oakleaf lace on the

Side seams . Th elace of width as fo llows

Ist andandClass, 2—5 inches wide.

3rdand4th 2

sth

Page 24: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

HIS MAjESTY’S HOUSEHOLD . 2 1

BOOTS— Plain Military Patent Leather are wo rn with Trousers .HAT.

— Same as Full Dress .SWORD — D itto .

SW ORD BELT.— Blue Clo th frog is wo rn with Levée Dress.

GLOVES— White.

GREAT COAT OR CLOAK.— Blue Clo th Of any substance. Double

breasted,tw o rows Of buttons with six buttons in each row

,and

six inches apart acro ss. Stand and fall co llar of Black SilkVelvet. Th e Coat to reach within a fo o t of th e g round. BlueClo th back strap with a

'

large button at each end. Tw o cro sspockets at th e sides andon e inside the breast. The Coat linedwith Scarlet I ta lian o r Ratin ette. There are n o shoulder strapso r swo rdflaps o n the Coat. Lo o se roundcuffs, six inches deep.

Gilt butto ns of th e pattern wo rn with the Levée Dress. Capeof blue clo th, to reach t o th e knuckles. Lined Black. Foursmall g ilt buttons down front anda Gilt Ho ok and chain at th eneck. Th e Cape sho uldbutton on to th e co llar of th e Coat,but th e Coat andCape m ay b e wo rn together o r separately.

C AR — Blue Clo th ; with a peak o f Blue Clo th . Black oakleafmoha ir band, 1

4-1 inches wide, with a row Of narrow go ld braid

within a narrow bandOf scarlet clo th at the top and bo ttom .

A scarlet welt in th e top seam . Small go ld bra ided figure o n

the top . A smal l button on each side.

FOR MOURN IN G.

— Black Crepe band, 35 inches wide, wo rn on

th e left arm above th e elbow.

Th e Civil Unifo rm is wo rn only during tenure o f Office, or on

retirement, by specialpermission o f th e Sovereign .

EVEN ING DRESS H.M. HOUSEHOLD.

EVEN IN G DRESS COAT.— Of Blue Clo th, with Black Velvet

co llar (th e co llar cut with no tched ends) . Black Silk lining s.Fo ur buttons o n each front, tw o at th e waist behind, and tw o

at th e bo ttom o f the skirts . Tw o small g ilt buttons on each. cuff.

BUTTONS — Flat Gilt, eng r avedwith th e Royal Cypher and ImperialCrown .

Page 25: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

2 2 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

VEST.— OfWhite Marcella , with fo ur smal l g ilt bu tton s .

TROUSERS— Plain Black Evening Dress material .BREEcHEs

,

SHOEs, &c . ,

See Frock Dress .

There are special buttons fo r th e Gentlem en of th e Househo ldo fH.M. Queen A lexandra .

THE OFFICERS OF THE ORDERS OF KN IGHTHOOD.

Th e Oflic ers Of the Orders Of th e Thistle, St . Patrick, andBath,wear th e Househo ld Unifo rm as be low stated, if they have n o

Un ifo rm as Officers o f Arms.

If with th e rank of Gentleman U sher,the Unifo rm Of t h e Third

Class .

If below that rank,the Unifo rm Of th e Fo urth Class .

Th e Officers of th e Order of St . Michael andSt . Geo rge wear aUn ifo rm similar to the Househo ldUnifo rm,

but with Scarlet Velvetco llar andcuffs

,andembro idery of special pa ttern .

Th e fo llowing Officers of th e Royal Househo ld have SpecialUnifo rms assigned to them

Earl Ma rshal .Master of th e Ho rse.

Governo r ofWindso r Castle.

Deput y Go verno r Of Windso r Castle.

Th e Gentlemen o f t h e Lo rd Steward’s andLo rd Chamberlain’sDepartments also wear a Special Unifo rm .

Page 27: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

24 DRESS W ORN A T COURT.

HAT.— Ist Class . Same as Ist Class Of Househo ld.

and Same as andClass Of Househo ld.

3rd, 4th , and5th Class. Same as fo r relative rank ofHouseho ld.

GLOVES— White.

LEVEE DRESS.

COAT.— Blue Clo th, sing le breasted, stand co llar. Black Velvetco llar and cuffs . N ine buttons up fronts, to butto n . Tw o

buttons at waist behind. Th e Ist and end Class have Go ldEmbro idery on th e co llar, cuffs, po cket flaps, and back, as on

th e full dress coa t. Th e 3rdand4th Class have Embro ideryon th e co llar, cuffs , back and po cket flaps . Th e 5th Class,Embro idery on th e co llar, cuffs, andpocket flaps o nly, ando f

pattern acco rding to rank. Gilt mountedbuttons of Ro yal A rms

(without suppo rters) surmountedby th e Imperial Crown . Blacksilk lining s anda black silk stock at th e fro nt o f th e neck.

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th, with stripes of Go ld oakleaf lace o n th e

side seams . Th e lace of width as fo llowsIst and 2 ndClass, e é inches .

grdand4th

sth I inch .

BOOTS.— Plain, Military, Patent Leath er are wo rn with Trousers.

HAT,

SWORD, The same as Full Dress .SW ORD KNOT,

SWORD BELT.— A blue clo th frog is wo rn with Levée Dress.

GLOVES— White.

GREAT COAT o r CLOAK .— AS describedfo r H.M. Househo ld. (See

page Gilt buttons, Of th e pattern wo rn with Levée Dress .

CAR — Blue Clo th,made up soft, with peak of blue clo th . Black oak

leaf band, 1 } inches wide, with a row o f go ld bra id top and

bo ttom,and a row of go ld braid round th e crown seam. A

small go ldbra id figure o n th e top . A small button on eachside.

Page 28: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 29: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 30: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE CIVIL SER VICE . 25

FOR MOURN ING .— A black crepe band3141 inches wide, wo rn above

th e elbow on th e left arm .

Th e Civil unifo rm is wo rn only during tenure of Oflic e, o r o n

retirement, by special permission o f th e So vereign .

Gentlemen in the India Office w h o have heldth e appo intments ofMem b e r o f C o u n c il, Lieu ten an t—G o v e r n o r , Ch ief C omm issio n er

,o r Sec r e ta r y t o t h e G o ver nm en t o f In dia , are

allowed to wear at this Court (on permission being obtained throughth e Secretary o f State) th e Class of Unifo rm ,

so far as it c o rrespondswith th e Civil Unifo rm recognisedat th e Court o f St . James, to whichtheir Offices in India have respectively entitledthem .

D ip lom a t ic A g e n t s Of th e Government o f India when ac c om

pan ying Native Princes o r Chiefs in this country, o r when on leave,are permittedto wear at this Court their Indian Unifo rms as assignedto them by th e Government of India (

“ Memo randum of Po liticalUnifo rms , 3o th March, 1 893

M em b er s o f t h e I ndian C iv ilSer v ic e , n o t being D iplomatic Agents, to whom th e Po litica l Unifo rm has been extended, are.acco rdeda similar privilege.

Page 31: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

26 DRESS WORN AT C OURT.

H .M . MOST HON OURABLE PR IVY C OUN C IL.

Lo rds (zie. Mem b er s) o f H .M . Pr ivy Co u n c iln o t h o lding Navalor Military Rank, o r entitled to wear unifo rm , will wearth e o rders of dress prescribed fo r the Ist Class Of th e Civil Service

(Page 2 3)

Ca b in e t M in ister s being a lso Pr ivy C o u n c illo r s, wear theC ivilUniform,

Ist Class, andcontin ue to do so after g iving up Sealsof Office, the rule as to wearing Civil Un ifo rm on ly during tenure ofo ffice, n ot applyin g to Members o f the Privy Coun cil.

H .M . M OST HONOURABLE PR IVY COUN CIL IN

IRELAND .

The same rules apply as above stated.

Page 32: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

H M DIPLOIIIATIC SER VICE . 27

H .M . D IPLOMATI C SERVIC E .

Am b assado r s wear th e Ist Class Civil Un iform ,with th e

addition of go ldembro idery on th e back seams and sleeve seams ofthe FULL DRESS COAT.

E n v o y s and M in ister s accredited to Sovereign Princes andStates. Th e z udClass Civil Unifo rm .

Sec r et a r ies of Em b assy and C h ar g é d’Afi

a ir eS. Th e

3rdClass Civil Un ifo rm.

Se c r e ta r ies of Leg at io n andz u d Sec retar ies. The 4th

Class Civil Un ifo rm .

3 rd Sec r e tar ies and A t t ac h es. Th e sth Class Civi lUnifo rm .

N .B .—Th e WH ITE BREECHES andSTOCKINGS are n o t wo rn in

Turkey,Persia and certain o ther places

,info rmation to b e obtained

from th e Fo reign Office, Downing Street, SW .

N av alA t tac h é s at Fo reign Courts wear the Unifo rm Of th e

Ro yal Navy.

M i l ita r y At tac h é s wea r Military Un ifo rm as prescribed byDress Regulation s fo r the Army.

"Particulars obtainable at the

W ar Office, R oom A .G. , Dress.

N .B .— The Civil Un ifo rm is wo rn only during tenure of Office, or

on retirement, by special permission o f the Sovereign .

Page 33: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

28 DRESS WORN AT COURT.

K .M . C ONSULAR SERV IC E.

FULL DRESS.

Wo rn at Courts, Drawing Rooms, StateBalls andState Co ncerts ,andon important State o ccasions abroad.

COAT : blue clo th, sing le breasted. stan d co llar, th e co llar and cuffso f Black velvet

,pocket flaps Of blue clo th, n in e button s up fron t

at equal distances, tw o buttons at th e waist behind.

The COAT of a Co nsulG en er alwill b e embro idered on

th e co llar, c uffs, po cket flaps andback, 2 12» in ch es wide.

The COAT Of a C o n sulwill b e embro idered on th e co llar,cuffs, pocket flaps andback, 2 in ches wide.

The COAT of a Vic e Co n suland Co n su la r Ag en t willb e embro idered on ly on the co llar andcuffs, 15 in ches wide.

The COAT fo r Can c ellier i attached to British Con sulate inth e Levant will b e as for a Vic e Co n sul, but without embro idery on the cuffs.

The embro idery o n th e back is in Silver ando n th e co llar, cuffs andflaps silver oakleaf with a go ld saw edge.

BUTTONS, g ilt fro sted, having th e R oyal Arms (without suppo rters),surmoun tedby th e Imperial Crown . Th e same pattern buttonused fo r each rank.

Black silk linings and a small black silk stock at fron t o f then eck .

BREECHEs.— White kerseymere with three smal l covered buttons and

a g ilt buckle at the knee.

STOCKIN GS— White silk.

SHOES.-Black Paten t Leather with g ilt buckles.

GLOVEs.-White.

HAT.—Black silk co cked hat w ithout binding . Th e fan o r backpart I I inches, th e fron t 9% in ches, each co rner 5s in ches,black ribbons on the tw o fro n t sides

,black cockade, plain go ld

bullion tassels.

Page 35: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

30 DRESS WORN A T COUR T.

UNDRESS.

WORN ON ORD INARY OCCASIONS.

COAT— Blue clo th, do uble breasted Fro ck Coat, with four buttonson each side andtw o buttons at th e waist behind. Black VelvetCo llar. Black Silk lining s, o r

Fo r EVEN ING WEAR — DRESS COAT o f Blue clo th, w ith Black VelvetCo llar andBlack Silk lining s .

Th e Buttons fo r bo th Coats are as fo llowsG ilt, convex, with sma ll rim on th e edge mounted o n th e

button is th e R oyal Cypher surmo untedby th e Imperial Crown .

VEST.— White Marcella o r pique, with four small g ilt

buttons of pattern describedabove.

Mor n ing— A buff vest w ith g ilt buttons as fo r white vest.

TROUSERS— Plain blue clo th o r B lack Evening Dress Twill.BOOTS — Plain Military Patent Leather.N ECKTIE .

—White Bow necktie fo r Evening Dress .GLOVES — White.

CAP as described for th e Civil Service o n page 2 4, but with Silverwelts andbraidin place of th e Go ld.

GREAT COAT and CAPE as fo r th e Civil Service (see page with

g ilt buttons as wo rn o n th e Undress Coat.In co ldclimates a Fu r - linedandtrimmedCoat m ay b e wo rn .

Fo r Mo urning. See Civil Service.

N O Unifo rm is wo rn by Pr o —C o n suls.

Co n su lar A ss ist an ts in Turkey,Persia, and th e Levant

, and

in China,Japan, andSiam are permittedt o wear th e Half Dress and

Undress prescribed fo r Vice Consuls . Th e In t er p r e t er and

D r ag om an at Tang ier, andth e C h ie f C le r k o f th e Su p r em e

Co u r t at Shanghai have th e same privilege.

St u de n t In ter p r e ter s are a llowed to wear th e UndressUnifo rm.

A Co n sula r Offi c e r w h o does n o t ho lda D iplomatic appo intment

,must n o t, without permission, wear any o ther than th e

Consular Unifo rm . Shouldh e ho ldan appo intment entitling him to

wear ano ther unifo rm, h e is n o t allowed, during his employment inth e Co nsular Service, to wear such o ther unifo rm without specialpermission from th e Secretary of State fo r For eign Affairs .

Page 36: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE CORPS DIPLOIIIATIQUE . 3 I

THE C OR PS D IPLOMATIQUE .

Fo r eig n Am b assado r s, M in ist er s and A t tac h es

expectedto appear at Court andon Sta te o ccasion s in the Unifo rmsor Dress acco rdin g to th e regulations of their ow n Court fo rfun ctions Of co rresponding charac ter.

Th e Am b assado r and D iplom at ic St aff from th e Un itedStates and from Switz erland wear FROCK DRESS (as described on

page 1 7) at Co urts, Drawin g Rooms, State Balls, andState C oncerts,but they wear EVEN IN G DRESS w ith TROUSERS at Levées, and on

o ther o ccasion s when presen t Officially.

W H ITE BOW N ECKTIE andWH ITE GLOVES are always wo rn.

Page 37: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

32 DRESS WORN AT COUR T.

VI CER OYS, GOVERNORS-GEN ERAL, H IGH COM

M ISSION ERS, GOVERN ORS, L IEUTEN AN T

GOVERN ORS, COLON IA L SEC RETAR IES, & C .

If an Adm ir alo r G en er alOffi c er , th e un iform Of his rank.

Swo rn Members of H.M. Mo st Hon ourable Privy Co uncil(n o thaving Naval or Military Un ifo rm) are entitled to wear th e Ist ClassCivil Unifo rm.

A schedule o f th e Co lonies and Dependen cies to whichGoverno rs-Gen eral, Go verno rs, High Commissioners, LieutenantGoverno rs, Residents—General, and Admin istrato rs are appo in ted iskept at th e Co lon ial Ofiic e, and info rmation can b e Obta in ed there,or at th e Lo rd Chamberlain’s Office, as to th e Class of Civil Un ifo rmto b e wo rn by th e respective ho lders of these appo in tmen ts .Th e Full Dress Coat is worn with Trousers as a gen eral rule, but

n o t in this Coun try, except under special directio ns.On mo st occasions th e Civil Uniform will b e worn

,but in th e

c ase of a G ov er n o r -Gen er alo r G o ver n o r w h o also ho lds aCommissio n Of Lieutenan cy in th e United Kingdom, the Unifo rm of

th e last named rank m ay b e wo rn at purely Milita ry fun ctions, zie.

Reviews o r Distribution of Medals, S1 C .

Vic er o ys and G o ver n o r s-G en er alare also allowed to u se

the fo llowing dress fo r Mil itary Unifo rm.

BLUE FROCK COAT as fo r a General Officer. Stand co lla r andpla in roun d cuffs of Dark Blue Velvet. Shoulder co rds Of

Silver plaited co rd. BUTTONS, Silver pla ted, the ImperialCrown within a Wreath .

TROUSERS— Blue, with Silver Oakleaf stripes 2 § in ches wide.

‘COCKED HAT AND PLUMEs,

SWORD, As for a Lo rd Lieutenan t of

SWORD BELT AND SLIN GS, Eng lish County.

SWORD KNOT,

SPURS— G ilt.GLOVES — White.

Page 38: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

VICEROYS, GOVE RA’ORS, SE CRE TARIES,

fif e. 33

Fo r MountedDuties — BLUE PANTALOONS, with stripes of Silverlace as on th e Trousers .

KN EE BOOTS — Army pattern,Black Patent Leather.

SPURS andCHA INS — Gilt.Th e R ibands and Stars of Orders may b e W om with this

dress .

A WH ITE HELMET wit h PLUMES may b e wo rn in h o t climates .SADDLERY andSADDLE CLOTH as fo r a General Officer, but with

platedbuckles andsilver lace, &c .

EVEN ING DRESS.

*

The fo llowing may b e worn . Th e co lour Of th e collar andcuffst o b e cho sen by th e Vi ceroy o r Governo r.

EVEN IN G DRESS COAT, blue clo th , with co llar andcuffs of co louredclo th. G ilt butto ns, mounted, th e R oyal Cypher surmountedby the Imperial Crown, o r

E VEN ING DRESS COAT Of blue clo th, with dark blue velvet co llar andsilk facings (of co lour cho sen by the Governo r) and g ilt buttonsas above.

DRESSWA ISTCOAT.

— White Marcella o r Pique, n o co llar, and foursmall buttons .

BLACK DRESS TROUSERS.

WH ITE TIE.

BOOTS — Plain Military, patent leather.

This is Often erro neou sly called “ W indsor Un ifo rm , b u t is n o t an offic ialo rder o f dress in Eng land.

Page 39: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

DR ESS WORN A T COUR T.

THE EAR L MARSHA L

FULL DRESS.

COATEE. .— Scarlet Clo th ; stan d co llar ; sing le breasted. Th e co llar

and cuffs Of Blue Velvet. Th e Coat fas ten s with b ooks and

eyes up the fronts,but there are n ine button s on the Left

side and tw o butto n s at th e waist behind, and tw o at the

bo ttom Of the skirt. Go ld embro idery on the Fronts, Co llar,cuffs, flaps, back, skirts, andback-sk irts similar to th e Ist ClassOf th e Househo ld. Scarlet Silk lin ing s.

BUTTONS — Gilt Mounted, Royal A rms with Supporters .

BREECHEs.— White Kerseymere,

STOCK INGS — White Silk,SHOES, with Gilt buckles, )As fo r the H

ouseho ld Unifo rm .

SW ORD,

SWORD KN OT, &C ., J

COCKED HAT.—Black Silk, Go ldloop and bullion s. White feather

bo rder.WH ITE GLOVES.

LEVEE DRESS.

COATEE.— Scarlet Clo th, Blue Velvet co llar andcuffs. Th e co llar,

cuffs,flaps, and back embro idered in Go ld. Aigulettes and

co rds w o rn on th e R ight side. Scarlet Silk lining s.BuTTONs.

—G ilt, Roya l Arm s (without Suppo rters) surmoun ted byImperial Crown .

TROUSERS— Blue Clo th with stripes of Go ld Oakleaf lace, 25 in chesW ide.

COCKED HAT— Black Silk, Go ld loop and bullion s, as for FullDress.

SWORD,

SWORD KNOT,

SWORD BELT— With Blue Clo th Frog .

BOOTS— Plain Patent Leather.WH ITE GLOVES.

GREAT COAT,

CAP,

}As fo r Full Dress .

}As fo r Ist Class o f th e Househo ld.

Page 40: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE MASTER OF THE HORSE . 35

THE MASTER OF THE HORSE .

FULL DRESS.

TUN IC .— Scarlet Clo th, single breasted, stand co llar. Th e co llar andcuffs Of Blue Velvet. Ho ok and eye down fronts . There are

seven teen Double bars of Go ldplait embro idery on th e fron ts, tenabove th e wa ist andseven be low. The top bar s exten d to th e

Shoulders, th e remain ing bars ar e sho rter in ro ta tio n to the

waist, and then spread W ider o n th e Skirts. The front edgesandthe outer ends Of the bars ar e laced with Go ld. There arenine buttons on th e left forepart (n o t to button), th e button sbeing placedin the cen tre Of th e bars and n ear th e edge. On

the cuffs ar e four double chevrons of g old plait with a button inthe po int Of each. Th e co llar and back-skirts are also laced.

Go ld Sho ulder co rds, with Aigulettes wo rn on th e Right side.

Lin ing s, White Silk.

BUTTONS— Gilt Moun ted, Royal A rms with suppo rters .HAT— Co okedHat , Army pattern , Go ld Lace loop andbullions.PLUME.

— White Sw an ’s feathers, 1 0 inches long , on a featheredstem

3 in ches high . Redfeathers under.TROUSERS o r PANTALOONS.

—Blue Clo th with Go ld Oakleaf lacestripes

,2 % inches wide.

SWORD BELT.— Go ld Laced andcrimson , with Waist Clasp of Royal

Cypher with Crown within a wreath, mounted in Fro stedSilver o n a burn ished plate. Wo rn partly under the Coat.

SWORD — Scimitar Blade, Mam eluke Hilt, Ivo ry Grip (Lion’s Head,

Gilt, Scabbard, steel w ith Gilt moun ting s .

SWORD KNOT.—Goldandcrimson lace strap andaco rn .

SHOULDER SASH.— Wo rn over the Left Shoulder. Go ldand crimson

lace, with runner ends andtassels .GLOVES— White.

BOOTS— Mounted,Knee Boo ts, A rmy pattern , Black Pa ten t Leather.

Gilt Jack spurs andchains.BOOTS (with Trousers), plain Military Paten t Leather, with spu r

boxes. Gilt swan n ecked spurs .

Page 41: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

36 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

NAVA L A IDES—DE-CAMP TO THE K ING , AND

E QUER R IES TO THE K ING AN D R OYAL FAM ILY.

Th e Un ifo rm of their rank in the Royal Navy with the

distinction s prescribedby the Admiralty Regulation s.

M IL ITA RY A IDES-DE- CAMP TO THE K ING .

Army, Militia, Yeoman ry andVo lun teers. Unifo rm as prescribedin Dress Regulations for th e Army.

"

The special Unifo rm is Blue with Scarlet facings for Oflic ers onthe Active List of th e RoyalArt illery. Fo r allo ther bran ches thespecialUn ifo rm is Scarlet with Blue facin gs.

A ides-de-Camp from the Army andMilitia wear go ld lace. Fromthe Yeoman ry andVo lun teers, Silver lace.

EQUERR IES TO THE K ING AND R OYALFAM ILY.

If a General Officer, the Un ifo rm of his rank with Aigulette on

the R ightShoulder. Fo r the specialUn ifo rms, see “ Dress Regulation sfor th e Army."

A IDES—DE- CAMP TO THE VIC EROYOF IR ELAND.

See “ Dress Regulation s for the A rmy.

Page 43: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

38 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

SWORD,

SW ORD KNOT

TROUSERs.—B1u e Clot h with stripes g o ld oakleaf lace

Side seams . (Th e lace 25 in ches W ide fo r K in g s o f

and 2 inches wide fo r Her alds and

BOOTS — Plain military,patent lea ther.

GLOVES— White.

GREAT COAT — As fo r H.M. Ho usehold, with g ilt. mo unted buttonsth e R oyal Cypher surmountedby the Imperial Crown

Page 44: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

PAGES OF HON OUR . 39

PAG ES OF HON OUR .

SCARLET FROCK, sing le breasted, edgedall‘round (except th e ,b o t tom

edge), with go ld lace. Twelve short double bars of lace fo rming apo int at th e endo n each front , with a button o n each b ar o n th e

right s ide. Po cket flaps with three po ints, edgedwith go ldlaceand “three double bar s o f lace o n th e flaps , three g ilt buttonsunder th e flap po ints . Lo o se g auntlet cuffs Of blue velvet with

go ldlace round th e top edge and three doub le bars of go ldlac e.

White ribbons and co rds o n R ight Shoulder . White silklinings .

LON G WA IS-TCOAT Of White Satin with go ldLAC E allroundth e edges,

andfo rming bars acro ss, g ilt buttons .

BREECHEs.— White kerseymere as fo r Househo ld.

STOCKINGS — White silk.

SHOES — B lack pa tent leather with sca rlet heels. Gilt buckles.

SWORD — Sho rt, with cro ss guardandho rsehead pommel, ivo ry grip,White leather scabbardwith g ilt mo unts .

SW ORD KNOT— Go ld lace St rap andtassel.

HAT.— Three-co rnered hat .

LACE CRAVAT and RU FFLES.

Page 45: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

40 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

THE HON OUR A BLE C OR PS OF G EN TLEMEN -AT

A RMS.

COATEE.— Scarlet Clo th, sing le breasted, stand co llar. Th e c o llar

andcuffs o f Blue Velvet, and th e skirts turnedbac k with BlueVelvet. A go ldembro ideredbadge at th e bo ttom Of th e skirts .Special embro idery on th e co lla r-ends .

BUTTONS — Gilt indented. Th e Garter Star, and Garter, w ith th e

Tudo r Po rtcullis in th e centre.

Ep AULETTEs.— Go ldBullion .

GOLD AIGULETTES and Co rds wo rn on th e R ight side by th e

Officers .TROUSERS — Blue Clo th , with Go ld oakleaf lace stripes

,2% inches

wide o n th e side seams .HELMET.

— Gilt Chased, of Special pattern,with g ilt chain chin—strap .

PLUME.— White swan’s feathers on a high stem, and to fal l to

bo ttom of th e helmet at th e sides.SWORD .

'

—Special “Sabre pattern, w ith brass scabbard.

SWORD KNOT.— Goldandcrimson co rdwith bullion tassel .

WA IST SASH .— '

Go ldand crimson lace with tassels hang ing on th e

Left side. Go ldlace Sling s with g ilt b‘uckles, &c .

SHOULDER BELT and POUCH — Go ldlaced.

BOOTS— Plain, Military, patent leather, with spur boxes .SPURS — G ilt

,straight (long) .

GLOVES — White Gauntlets are wo rn .

MESS DRESS.

EVEN ING DRESS COAT o f Blue Clo th with Co llar Of Black Velvet,as describedfo r H .M. Househo ldon page 2 1 .

BUTTONS— Gilt, convex, with mounteddevice Of Royal Cypher withImperial Crown .

VEST— OfWhite Marcella with four small g ilt buttons .TROUSERS— Black Evening Dress material .BOOTS— Plain Military, patent leather.

Page 46: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE YE OIWEN OF THE GUARD . 4I

THE YEOM EN OF THE GUARD .

The Cap t a in andOffi c er s wear th e fo llowingCOATEE.

— Scarlet Clo th, double breasted, stand co llar. Th e co llarandcuffs Of Dark Blue Velvet. The skirts turned back withWhit e Clo th . There are nine buttons in each row andtw o at

th e Waist behind. Scarlet Clo th, three po inted slashes o n the

Cuffs with a button at each po int,and Scarlet Clo th three

po inted swo rd flaps o n th e Skirts w ith a button at each po int.White Silk lining s .

EMBROIDERY.— Go ld, R o se , Shamrock, and Thistle device. o n th e

co llar, cuff slashes and swo rdflaps .BUTTONS — G ilt

,mounted, the Ro se, Shamrock, and Thistle with

the Imperial Crown above.

EPAULETTES.— Go ld Bullio n

,with device in embro idery .

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th,with stripes o f Go ld oakleaf lace o n the

side seams .HAT.

— Black Silk Co ckedHat, with bullion lo op and tassels .PLUME.

— White Swan feathers with redfeathers under.SW ORD .

— Gllt Hilt. Black Scabbardwith g ilt mounting s .SW ORD BELT.

— White Silk W eb shoulder belt wo rn under th e Coat,with Blue Velvet frog , embro ideredgo ld Ro se, Shamro ck, andThistle .

SWORD KNOT.~ —Gold lace, strap with bullio n tassel.

WA IST SASH .— Go ldand Crimson , with lon g bullion tassels to hang

at the left side in front of the swo rd.

BOOTS— Plain,Military

,pa tent leather.

SPURS — G ilt, stra ight, embo ssed Ro se, Shamrock, andThistle .

GLOVES — White.

AIGULETTEs.— Go ld. Wo rn on R ight side by th e Captain ,

Lieutenant, Ensig n, andAdjutant. (N o t wo rn by th e Exons .)GOLD STICK carriedby the Captain . Ebony with g ilt mounting s.

SILVER STICKS c arried by allo ther Offic ers on duty. Ebo ny withsilver mountings .

GR EAT COAT — Blue Clo th Inverness Cape of the pattern w orn byth e Yeom en but without the hood. Scarlet l ining s.

Page 47: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

42 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

H .M . ROYA L B ODY-GUARD O F SCOTTISH

AR C HERS.

FULL DRESS.

C OATEE . Green Clo th, double breasted, standco llar, with ho ok and

eye top andbo ttom andblack silk tab . Lappel seam in centreandten buttons on each side. Tw o buttons at th e waist behind.

Th e co llar and cuffs are of Green Velvet, andth e skirts are

turnedback with Green Velvet. A three-po inted Slash Of GreenClo th on th e cuffs, anda three-po inted clo th swo rd-flap o n th e

skirts . A small button at each po int of th e cuff slashes, anda

large button at each po int Of th e skirt flaps.

The c o llar, cuffs , slashes, and flaps are allembro ideredinGo ld, Thistle pattern, and there is a Go ld embro idered badgeof Thistles andArrows at th e bo ttom o f th e skirt.

Gilt buttons,mounted. Th e St . Andrew’s Cro ss and Star

o f th e Thistle W ith th e Crown in th e centre, within a circleinscribedK ing 5 Body-GuardR .C .A .

Linedwith Green Silk.

EPAULETTES..— Go ldbullion .

TROUSERs.—Green Clo th with Go ld lac e, Thistle pattern, 2 -5 inches

wide on the side seams . Straps Of Green Clo th to g o under th ebo o ts .

HAT— Black CockedHat with Go ld lo op and button, and bulliontassels.

PLUME.— Black C ook ’s plumes o n a feathered stem .

WA IST SASH Of Crimson , with a Go ld lacedfrog fo r th e swo rd.

SWORD._Gilt hilt andBlack scabbardwith g ilt mounting s .

SW ORD KNOT— Go ldandCrimson strapJ with bullion tassel .

BOOTS— Pla in, Military, patent leather.

GLOVES — White.

Page 48: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

ROYAL BODYGUARD OF SCOTTISH ARCHERS. 43

FIELD DRESS.

Wo rn when o n duty as a Royal Body-Guard.

TON IC — Green Serge, Of special pattern , with trimming s Of MaroonVelvet andBlack Mohair braid.

TROUSERS with dou ble stripes o f Black braid with a light of MaroonVelvet between th e braids.

PR INCE CHARLES BONNET with Eag le feathers is wo rn with FieldDress.

BLACK PATENT LEATHER SWORD BELT and frog and a sho rtHUNTIN G SWORD (Gilt and Ivo ry hilt, Black scabbard), and a

QU IVER with wo rsted tassels , &c .

MESS DRESS.

Dark Green Superfine EVEN ING DRESS COAT, with a Green VelvetCo llar. Th e co llar has “ no tched"

ends. Gilt button s of thepattern o n th e Full Dress Coat, four button s o n each fron t andtw o at the waist behind, andtw o small g ilt buttons o n each cuff.

Lined with Green Silk.

VEST— White Marcella, with a ro ll co llar andfour small g ilt button s.

TROUSERS— Plain black Evening Dress.

WH ITE NECKTIE.

BOOTS— Plain, Military, patent leather.

Headquarters.— A rcher’s Hall, Edinburgh.

Page 49: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

44 DRESS kVORN A T COUR T

CLERGY.

The A r c h b ish o p s and B ish o p s wear at Levées and CourtFunctions in th e day time. Convocation Robes as fo llows

LAW N ROCHET with sleeves .SCARLET CLOTH ROBE (without Ho od).BANDSBLACK SILK SCAR F.

DOUBLE-BREASTED CASSOCK and SASH .

BLACK BREECHES.

BLACK SILK STOCKINGS.

SHOES with plain Silver Buckles .HAT— Velvet o r Clo th Square Soft C ap to b e carried.

Th e A r c h b ish o p s andB ish o p s at State o r Full Dress D innersandat Evening State Parties wear a PURPLE CLOTH COURT COA-T,*

with eight bars Ofco rdor twist o n each front, with a button at th e end

Of each bar,over a sho rt Casso c k (o r Apron) of Purple o r Black

Silk, BLACK BREECHES, BLACK SILK STOCKINGS, and SHOES withplain Silver Buckles . Black Silk THREE CORNERED HAT to b e

carried.

Th e Archbishops andBishops in Frock Dress wear a BLACK CLOTHCOAT* (c o rded as above), over a BLACK SILK SHORT CASSOC K (o rApron), BLACK BREECHES andSILK STOCKINGS. THREE CORN EREDSILK HAT to b e carried.

De an s,A r c h deac o n s and Cler gy i at Levées and Court

Functions in th e day- time appear in FULL CANON ICALS that is

,

BLACK SILK FULL o r PUDDIN G SLEEVE GOW N ,DOUBLE-BREASTED

CASSOCK and SASH, SCAR F, and BANDS. BLACK BREECHES, BLACKSILK STOCKIN GS, SHOES with plain Silver Buckles . THREE CORN EREDSILK CLER ICAL HAT to b e carried.

Dean s andA r c h dea c o n si at State o r Full Dress D inners andEvening Stat e Parties wear th e sam e as B ish o p s , except that th eCOAT and CASSOCK are Black. In Frock Dress the same o rder ofdress is wo rn.

N o W ig-b ag is attach edto C o u rt C oats fo r th e C lergy.

‘f‘

See spec ial n o te on page 45 as to C h a pla in s t o t h e K in g .

Page 51: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

46 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

JUD I C IAL A N D LEGA L.

TABLE OF LE GAL PRE CEDEN CE .

Tbe Lord C[lau rel/or .

Tlz e Lords of App eal.T/z e Lord C/z iqfju stice of E ngland.

T/ze Master of Me R olls.

Tile Lordju stices of tire Cou r t of Appeal.

T/z ejudge of Me A r e/z es Cou r t .

T/z e A ttor n ey Gen er al.T/ze Solz'a '

tor Gener al.I7ze judges of flu: Cou n ty Cou r ts.

fi'

ng’s Cou nsel.

Recorder of London .

Common Serj'

ean t of London .

Doctor s of CivilLaw .

B a r r ister s-allow .

P r octor s.

Th e VELVET COURT SU IT fo r th e Lo rd C h an c ello r , the

Sp eak er o f t h e Ho u se o f Comm o n s, K .M . Ju dg es and

tho se entitled to wear SILK ROBES, is Of th e fo llowing descriptionCOAT.

— Black Silk Velvet, stand co llar, single breasted, th e fron tsmeet edge to edge at a po int on th e breast where a smallblack hook and eye are placed to secure them . R ound

gauntlet cuffs, pocket flaps with three po in ts on th e waistseam . There are seven buttons o n the R ight Front andsevenbars of Black silk co rd o n th e Left Fron t, th e bars being35 inches in leng th at th e top and z i in ches at bo ttom . Threebuttons on the cuffs and a butto n is placed under each po in to f th e pocket flaps, and six buttons behind, that is, tw o at the

waist, tw o at cen tre, andtw o at bo ttom of skirts. Po ckets in thebreast andin th e tails. Black Silk lin ings .

Page 52: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

C O U RT DR ESS O F C OU RT DR ESS O F

B LAC K VELVET. B LA C K C LOTH.

(Pag e: 46a nd (Pag es 47 a nd

Page 53: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 54: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

jUD JC 1A1 . AND LE GAL. 47

BUTTONSFo r the Lo rd C h an c ello r ,

Sp eak er ,

J udg es o f th e Hig h Co u r t o f J u st ic eFo r Others in the Law

,Cut Steel .

A WIG—BAG o r“Flash " is attachedto the coat at th e back Of the

n eck on the co llar seam .

WA ISTCOAT.— Black Silk Velvet

,with small stand co llar, skirted

fro nts and po in ted po cket-flaps. Button s to match tho se on

c oat

BREECHES.— Black Silk Velvet.

Fo r th e Lo rd Ch an c ello r,

Three small velvet button s atH .M . Judg es , th e knees, andg ilt buckles .

If Three small velvet buttons at th e kn ees.

Gilt buckles are wo rn when theth e Sp eak er , 4

State Robe is used, and steel o r

L silver buckles on o ther occasion s.

Fo r o thers in th e Law,

Three small steel button s, andsteelbuckles .

HOSE — Black Silk.

SHOES — Black Paten t Leather, with g ilt, silver, o r steel buckles tomatch tho se on th e breeches .

HAT— When the suit is wo rn without robes, a BLACK SILK COCKEDHAT i s wo rn . The loop is of go ld or steel, acco rding to th e

buckles,&c .

, of th e suit.

SWORD (n o t wo rn with robes) .— A sling pattern Steel hilted swo rdis used with Steel Knee andShoe buckles.

LACE FR ILLS andRUFFLES.

The COURT SU IT of Black Clo th fo r tho se en titled to Silk Robesi s as fo llows

COAT.—Of th e same shape anddeta ilas th e Velvet Coat, with Black

Silk lin ing s andplain Black Silk covered button s.

Page 55: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

48 DRESS WORN AT COUR T.

WA ISTC '

OAT.— Of Black Superfin e Clo th, to match th e Coat, andof

th e same shape andparticulars as th e Velvet Vest . Buttons tomatch tho se o n Coat.

BREECHES.— Black Clo th, with three small black buttons a t th e knees,

andsteel buckles.HOSE — Black Silk.

SHOES.~— Black Patent Leather, with steel buckles .

LACE FRILLs andRUFFLES.

The COURT SUIT o f Black Clo th fo r tho se ho lding officialappo intments fo r which it is prescribed.

‘COAT.

— Qf same shape a s above described, w ith seven buttons on th eR ight Front andseven bars of co rdo n th e Left . Three buttonso n th e cuff. A button under each po int of th e po cket flaps .Tw o buttons at th e Wa ist behind. Black Silk linings . PlainB lack Silk coveredbuttons .

BLACK SILK “ W IG-BAG o r Flash at back of neck .

WA ISTCOAT.— Black Superfine Clo th

,to match th e Coat . N o co llar,

four buttons .BREECHES.

— Black Clo th,with three small black buttons at the

Knees,andsteel buckles .

HOSE.

— Black Silk.

SHOEs.— B1ack Patent Leather with steel buckles .

LACE BANDS and RU FFLES are always wo rn when th e Suit is usedwithout Robes .

HAT.—Black Silk Co cked Hat

,with Black Silk COCKADE o r ROSETTE,

andSTEEL LOOP.

SWORD (n o t wo rn with robes).— Steel Hilt,black scabbardwith steel

mounting s. Th e sling pattern swo rd may b e wo rn .

TROUSERs.— Plain Black Clo th are wo rn on some o ccasions, but are

never wern at Court function s . Plain Military Paten t LeatherBoo ts are wo rn, with Trousers.

Page 56: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

IUDICIAL AND LEGAL . 49

At Court s tho se w ho pass th e Presence ar e expected to wear theFullDress with Robes andW ig as detailed on the succeeding pagesfo r Drawin g Rooms. Others attending will wear Privy Coun cil Dress

(if so en titled) or the Velvet Court Suit described o n page 46.

The Robes andW ig are n o t wo rn at State Dinn ers, State Balls ,o r State Con certs. The Velvet Co urt Dress is used when the robesare n ot wo rn .

The Lo rd C h an c ello r at Drawin g Rooms,appears in his

STATE ROBE of Black Dama sk trimmed with go ld, Black VelvetCOURT COAT, Black Velvet WA ISTCOAT, Black Velvet BREECHESwith gi lt buckles, Black Silk HOSE, SHOES with g ilt buckles. (AWA ISTCOAT of Clo th of Go ld is wo rn at Birthday Courts or

o ccasion s of g rea t ceremony. )

LACE BANDS, FR ILLS, andRU FFLES.

FULL BOTTOMED W IG.

BEAVER THREE CORNERED HAT.

THE PURSE.

At Levées the Lo rd C h a n c e l lo r wears the BLACK SILK GOWNwith train o ver a COURT SU IT o f Black Clo th ; STEEL BUCKLES onbreec hes andshoes ; CAMBR IC BANDS ; LACE FR ILLS andRUFFLES.

FULL BOTTOMED W IG.

THREE CORNERED SILK HAT.

The Lo rd C h ief Ju stic e o f En gland at Drawing Roomsappears in a BLACK VELVET COURT COAT; BLACK VELVETWA ISTCOAT (a Clo th of Go ld WA ISTCOAT is wo rn at Birthday Courts

o r on occasion s of great ceremony) BREECHES of Black Velvet with

gilt buckles, Black SilkHOSE SHOESwith gil t buckles . LACE BANDS,FR ILLS, andRUFFLES. Over allth e BLACK DAMASK TUFTED GOWNwith train , andthe GOLD COLLAR of OFFICE. FULL BOTTOMED WIG

andBEAVER THREE-C ORNERED HAT.

Page 57: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

50 DRESS WORN AT COURT.

A t Levées — COURT SU IT o f Black Clo th with lace frills and

ru flles steel buckles ; Cambric bands .Plain Black Silk GOW N with train .

FULL BOTTOMED W IG andTHREE CORNERED SILK HAT.

Over all,th e GOLD CHA IN of OFFICE.

Th e M ast er o f th e R olls, the Lo rd Ju st ic es o f A p p eal,andthe Pr esiden t o f t h e P r o b at e , D ivo r c e andAdm ir altyD iv isio n , appear th e same as th e Lo rdChancello r (except Purse) .

Th e Ju dg es o f t h e H ig h Co u r t o f Ju st ic e of allD iviSions, th e same as the Lo rd Chief Justice of Eng land, except Go ldco llar andw it/rou t tra in to robes.

C olo n ialJu dg es when attending Drawing R o oms will appearin a COURT SU IT of Black Velvet ; Lace Bands, Frills, and Ruffles ;Gilt o r Steel Buckles ; Black Damask TuftedGown (Chief Justiceshave a Train to Robe); Full Bo ttomedW ig Three-Co rnered Hat .

A t Levées, C olo n ialJu dg es will wear Court Suit of BlackClo th with Steel Buckles. Lace Bands, Frills, andRuffles. BlackSilk Gown (C h ief Ju st ic es have a Train t o R obe) . Full Bo ttomedW ig , andThree Co rneredSilk Hat .

Th e A t t o r n ey—G en er aland th e Solic it o r —Gen er al.— A t

Drawing R o oms — Court Suit of Black Velvet, with Steel Buttonsand Buckles. Lace Bands, Frills, and Ruffles. Black DamaskTuftedGown andFull Bo ttomedW ig .

A t Levées — C o urt Suit of Black Clo th,with Lace Frills and

Ruffles . Steel Buckles. Black Silk Gown . Full Bo ttomed W ig .

Cambric Bands .

Co u n t y Co u r t J udg es andR ec o rder s — The same as above.

K in g’s Co u n se l .— The same as above.

K in g'

s Co r o n er andA t to r n ey .— Th e same as above.

Page 59: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

52 D RESS WORN A T COUR T.

Th e Pe rm an en t Sec r e tar y to t h e Lo rd Ch an c ello ris entitledto wear th e Civil Service Unifo rm o f th e Second Class ,and the P r iva te Sec r e t ar ies are entitled to wear th e CivilService Unifo rm of th e Fifth Class

,but at Levées a Co urt Suit o f

Black Clo th, with Steel Buckles and Lace Bands, and Ruffles mayb e wo rn . (See page 48

Th e Sec r e tar y t o t h e Lo rd C h ief Ju st ic e o f En g land,th e Sec r e t ar y t o t h e Master o f t h e R olls, and th e

Sec r e tar y t o th e P r esiden t o f t h e P r o b at e , Divo r c e ,

and Adm ir a l ty D iv isio n ,—At Levées, will appear in their

Official Dress, viz .—Court Suit o f Black Clo th with Steel Buckles,

Lace Bands andRuffles, CockedHat andSwo rd. (See page

Page 60: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

HOUSE OF LORDS. 53

HOUSE LORDS.

o f t h e P arliam en t s and o ther Offi c er s o f

t h e Ho u se o f Lo rds are entitled to wear Civil Service

Unifo rm as follows

Cler k o f th e Parliam en ts, 2 ndClass.

Cler k Assist an t o r th e Pa rliam en ts,

R eadin g Cler k and Clerk o f Ou t 3rdClaSS

do o r C omm it tees,

Exam in er o f Pet it io n s and Pr iva te

B ills,C h ief Cler k o f t h e Parliam en t

4th Class’

Ofiic e , J

Lib r ar ian of t h e Ho u se , 5th Class.

Page 61: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

54 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

HOUSE OF COMMON S.

Th e Sp eak er o f t h e Ho u se o f Comm o n s at DrawingR ooms and o n State Occasio ns appears in a Co urt Suit o f BlackVelvet (see page Lace Bands, Frill. andRuffles his State R obeof Black Satin Damask trimm ed with Go ld. Full Bo ttomed W ig

andThree Co rnered Hat .

AT LEVEEs.

— Co urt Suit of Black Velvet, Steel o r Silver buckles.Cocked Hat andSwo rd. (See page

In th e House of CommonsCourt Suit of Black Clo th .

White Cambric N ecktie.

Silk Robe with Train .

Full Bo ttomed W ig .

Three Co rneredHat .

During periods of Court Mourning th e Speaker wears a BlackParamatta Gown, Weepers o n Coat, andMourning Bands.

Th e Cler k o f t h e Ho u se o f Comm o n s, th e Cler kA ssist an t , and the Se c o nd Cler k Assistan t are entitled to

wear th e Civil Service Unifo rm of th e 3rdClas s .

Th e Exam in er o f Pe t i t io n s fo r Private Bills is entitled to th eCivil Service Unifo rm of the 4th Class.

Th e Sp eak er’s Sec r e tar y is entitled to wear th e Civil Service

Unifo rm of th e sth Class, but at Levées h e may wear a Court Suit ofBlack Clo th with Steel Bu ckleS, Cocked Hat andSwo rd. Lace BandsandRuffles . (See page,

Page 62: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

SER/EAN TS-ATJARMS. 54:

SER JEANTS- AT—ARMS.

Unifo rm is set apart fo r Serjeant'

s-ai-A rms, willtherefo re wear Naval, Military, o r CivilUnifo rm if so entitled, o r a

Cou rt.Suit o f Black Velvet or Clo th, acco rding to occasion .

At-Levé-es, th e Su it of,“

Black Clo th (see page 48) m ay b e worn,but at Even ing State Parties, the Velvet Suit must be wo rn .

Th e Silver Co llar of Office andOrders andMedals are wo rn w ithUniform a ndCourt Dress. (See pages 8 1 , 82 ,

Fo r Mourning — Black HiltedSwo rd andBlack Knee andShoeBuckles .

Page 63: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

56 D RESS WORN A T COURT.

A RMY A ND NAVY .

Offic er s appear at Co urt in Full Unifo rm acco rding to theirrank

, as appo intedfo r them by th e Admiralty andHo rse Guards .

Fie ld M a r sh a ls will carry th e Baton, and wear BuckskinPantalo ons and G ilt Spurs at Drawing Ro oms land o n Stateo ccasions . A t Levées and at Semi-Stat e oc casio ns Blu e Clo thTrousers will b e wo rn insteado f Bucksk in Pantalo ons.

Th e Ho u se h old B r ig ade o f Cavalr y at Courts and

Drawing R o oms will wear Leather Breeches, with Pa tent LeatherJack Bo o ts andDress Spurs . A t Levées andCourt Balls : Trousersandplain Military Patent Leather Bo o ts are wo rn .

Offi c er s o f H u ssar s will wear Dress Breeches andHessianBo o ts

,with Silver-plated straight Spurs, plain R owels, at allCourt

functions .

The Kilt will b e wo rn by allOfficers o f kilted R eg iments , and

special articles o f dress autho riz ed by Dress Regulatio ns will b ewo rn by allHighland andSco ttish R eg iments at Courts andLevées.

See Dress Regulations fo r th e A rmy.

K ing’s Regu lations andOrders fo r th e Army .

(Amendment issued with Army Orders, Ist June,

YEOMANRY,MILITIA AND VOLUNTEERS.

Officers appear in th e Unifo rm o f th e Co rps acco rding to

R egulations of their particular Reg iments, in th e same manner asA rmy .

See “ K ing’s R egulations

Dress R egulations .Yeomanry Regulations.Mil itia Regulation s.

"

Vo lunteer Regulations .

Page 64: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 65: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 67: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

58 D RESS WORN A T COURT.

WAISTPLATE.—Fro sted G ilt Rectangular Plate with Burnished Edges .

On the Plate th e R oyal Cypher andCrown in Silver within an

Oakleaf Wreath . On th e lower part of the Wreath a Scro llinscribed Dieu et m on dro it."

SWORD KNOT.— Go ldandCrimson Co rd andAco rn .

SWORD — Mameluke Hilt, Ivo ry Grip, Scimitar Blade, Device o f

Ro se, Prince of Wales’s Plume, Thistle, o r Shamro ck in an

OakleafWreath .

SCABBARD .—Black Leather, with Gilt Mounting s, Oakleaf Lo ckets .

BOOTS — Plain Military Patent Leather.SPURS — Brass Box, Swan Neck.

GLOVES — White.

‘CLOAK AND CAPE — Blue Clo th, Turn-down Co llar,fastened with

on e Ho ok and Eye, five Buttons down the fro nt, n o Sleeves, aSlit at each Side with Po intedFlap, a Button andButto n-ho le at

the Po int ; Back Strap fastenedwith tw o Butto ns andButtonho les ; Slit at back with tw o Silk-covered Buttons inside, th e

depth to suit the Wearer. The Cape fo rms part Of th e Garment,three Silk-covered Buttons in front, Button-ho les in a Fly, longenough to reach to the knuckles. White Lining throughout.Embro ideredCo llar Badges.

NO SASH.

Patterns can b e seen at th e W ar Office (A .G . 7 Dress).FOR MOURN ING .

—Bando f Black Crepe, 37} inches wide, w o rn on

Left A rm above the Elbow.

OLD PATTERN UN IFORM, WAR OFFICE,1 889.

The Old pattern unifo rm m ay b e wo rn until it requires to b er eplaced renewals to b e Of the n ew pattern .

TUN Ic .— Scarlet Clo th ; Sing le Breasted " nine Buttons in fro nt, tw obehind edgedwith White Clo th Body andSkirts lined WhiteCo llar, Cuffs , andSlashes of Blue Clo th Embro idered in SilverSlashes o n Sleeve six inches long Embro idered Scarlet Slash onSkirts Silver Plaited Shoulder Kno t on each Shoulder.

Page 68: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 69: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 70: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

LORDS LIE UTENANT OF COUN TIES. 59

BUTTONS — Plated Sw'

o rdandBaton cro ssed.

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th , with Silver Lace z é inches wide down the

side seams .

C OCKED HAT.

— Black Beaver o r Silk ; Silver Double Bullion Loopflat Go ld Tassel s ; six Go ld Bullions, with Crimson Bullionsunder them .

PLUME .

— White Swan Feather s, drooping outwards IO inches long ,

with redfeathers under.

SW ORD — Mameluke, G ilt Hilt, with device of Cro ssed Bato nsenc ircled with Oak Leaves, Ivo ry Grip, Scimitar Blade, BrassScabbardwith R ing s .

SWORD KNOT — Crimso n andGo ld.

SWORD BELT— Russia Leather, 15 inches wide, with Sling s, and inchwide square plate with Wreath encircling V.R . and Crown,Embro idered same pattern as o n Tunic.

"

SASH.— Go ld and Crimson Net, 6 inches wide, w or n diagonally over

lqfl shoulder,ends cro ssed through a runner at th e wa ist ; Go ld

Fringe Tassels, 9 inches long .

BOOTS — Plain Mil itary Patent Leather.

SPURS — G ilt.

EMBROIDERY AND LACE — Fo r Eng lish and Welsh Counties,leaf and Aco rn pattern . Sco tch, Thistle pattern . Irish,Shamro ck pattern .

C LOAK. (See New Regulations.)

G LOVES — White.

Fo r Mo urning — Band of Crepe, 3% inches wide, wo rn on th e

Left A rm above th e Elbow.

Page 71: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

6.o DRESS WORN A T COURT.

L IEUTENANTS FOR THE C ITY OF LONDON .

NEW REGULATIONS, WAR OFFICE,1 90 2 .

COCKED HAT— Black Silk, Silver Double Bullion Lo op, Flat Go ldTassels

,six Go ld Bullions, with Crimson Bullions under t hem .

PLUME.

— White Swan Feathers, dro oping outwards, 1 0 inches lo ng ,with RedFea thers under.

COATEE.

— Scarlet Clo th, Double Breasted; Stand up Co llar ; tw orows o f Buttons down the fro nt, nine in each row , th e ninth to

b e below th e belt, tw o at the wa ist behind the Skirts edgedwithWhite

,th e Edg ing 53 inch W ide at the Waist

,and abo ut 25

inches at the po ints . Co llar and Cuffs of Blue Clo th . ScarletClo th, three Po inted Slashes o n the Cuffs and Flaps at the

Wa ist . Th e Co llar,Flaps

,Cuffs

, and Slashes trimmed withSilver Embro idery. Th e City Badge at th e. Po ints o f th e Skirts

Ep AULETTEs.

— Si1ver with Embro idered City Badge .

EMBROIDERv .

— Silver, Oakleaf, andAco rn Pa ttern .

BUTTONS.~—Silver—plated, Mounted with City Shield, Crown, and’.

Mo tto .

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th, z é- inch Silver Lace down the OutsideSeams .

SWORD BELT.— Silver Lace o n Crimson Mo rocco Leather, 1 5 inches

wide. A Silver Laced Frog attached to the Belt by tw o

o n e- inch Loops o n a Leather Runner.WAISTPLATE.

—~An inch w ide Square Plate,with Wreath, City Badge,

andCrown.

SWORD KNOT— Crimson andGo ld.

SWORD — Gilt Hilt, Si lver Grip, Straight Blade . Device, the CityA rms andMo tto .

SCABBARD .

— Black,with Gilt Moun tin gs .

BOOTS.— Plain Military Patent Leather.

Page 72: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

LIE UTENAN TS FOR THE CITY OF LONDOIV,

C LOAK AND CAPE — Blue Clo th, turn down Co llar, fastenedwith -o‘

n e

Ho ok andEye, five Buttons down th e Fron t, n o Sleeves, a Sl itat each Side with Po in tedFlap, a Button andButton-ho le at the

Po int Back Strap fastenedwith tw o Butto n s and Button—ho lesSl it at Back with tw o Silk Co veredButton s in side

,th e Depth to

suit the Wea rer. The Cape fo rms part of the Garment, threeSilk Co vered Butto ns in Front, Butto n -ho les in a Fly ; longenough to reach to the knuckles. White Lining througho ut.Embro idered Co llar Badges .

N o SASH OR SPURS.

GLOVES— W hite.

Fo r Mo urning — A Band of Crepe, inches wide, wo rn o n the

Left A rm abo ve th e E lbow.

Pa tterns c an b e seen at the War Office (A G. 7 Dress) .

OLD PATTERN UN IFORM, WAR OFFICE,1 876.

Th e old pattern un ifo rm m ay b e wo rn un til it requires to bereplaced: ren ewals to b e Of th e n ew pattern .

TUN IC .— Scarlet Clo th ; Sing le Breasted ; nine butto n s in front, tw o

behind edged with White Clo th Body andSkirts linedWhiteCo llar

,Cuffs, andSlashes o f Blue Clo th Embro ideredin Silver ;

Slashe s on Sleeves, 6in che s lo ng ; Embro idered Scarlet Slasho n Skirts Silver-plaited Shoulder Kn o t on each Shoulder, withEmbro idered City Badge.

BUTTON S— Plated, moun ted with City Shield, Crown , andMo tto .

TROUSERS— Blue Clo th, with Silver Lace 2 4; in ches wide down the

side seam s.

COCKED HAT.— Bla0k Beaver o r Silk, Silver Double Bullion Lo op,

Fla t Go ld Tassels, six Go ld Bullions with Crimso n Bullion sunder them .

PLUME.— White Swan Feathers, drooping outwards 1 0 inches long ,

with RedFeathers under.

Page 73: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

62 DRESS WORN AT COURT.

SWORD — Straight, Gilt Hilt, with device of City A rms andMo tto.White Grip.

SWORD KNOT.— Crimson andGo ld.

SWORD BELT.— Russia Leather, 1% in ches wide, with Sl ing s, th e

edges Embro idered with Go ld an in ch-wide square plate withWreath, City Badge, andCrown .

SASH.— Crimson Silk with round Tassels, w or nslw ula’er

,ends cro ssed through a runn er at th e wai st.

SPURS— Gilt.

BOOTS — Plain Mil ita ry Paten t Lea ther.

EMBRO IDERY AND LACE — Oak leaf andAco rn pa ttern .

CLOAK.— (See New Regulation s.)

GLOVES— White.

Fo r Mourn ing — Band of Crepe 33 inches wide wo rn on arm

above th e elbow.

Page 75: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

DEPUTY -LIEUTENANTS OF COUNTI ES.

(N EW PATTERN UN IFORM. )

Page 76: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

DEP UTY AND VICE-LIE UTENANTS OF COUNTIES. 63

DEPUTY L I EUTENANTS AN D V I CE-L IEUTE NANTS OF C OUN TIES.

NEW REGULATIONS, WAR OFFICE,1 90 2 .

COCKED HAT— Black Silk. On th e right side, a black Silk cockadewith a loop embro idered in silver, silver plated button, go ldtas sels, netted head, Six go ld bullion s with nine crimson bullion sunder them .

PLUME — Red and white up r zjg/z t swan feathers, 8 inches in leng th,white above, redbelow.

COATEE.— Scarlet c lo th . Double breasted stand up co llar ; tw o

rows Of button s down the front, n ine in each row , eight in pairsthe ninth to b e below the belt, tw o at the waist behind ; theskirts edged with white, the edg ing 3 inch wide at the wa ist andabo ut 2 45 inches at the po in ts. Co llar and c u ffs of blue clo thth e fro nt of the cuffs to b e gauntlet-shape. Scarlet C lo th threepo inted flaps at the waist. The co llar andcuffs trimmed withSilver embro idery . Device in embro idery, a Ro se, Prince of

Wales’s Plume, Thistle, o r Shamrock at the po ints of th e skirts.

EpAULETTEs.— Silver. Device in embro idery, the Ro se, Prin ce of

Wales’s Plume, Thistle, or Shamrock.

EMBROIDERY.—Silver. Oakleaf fo r English and. Welsh Coun ties

,

Thistle fo r Sco tch Coun ties, Shamrock fo r Irish Counties.

BUTTONS— Si lver plated Imperial Crown andWreath.

TROUSERS— Blue clo th. 1 } inch Silver Lace down the outsideseam s.

SWORD BELT— Silver Lace on Crimson Mo ro cco Leather 1 5} in cheswide . A Silver Laced FrOg attached to th e Bel t by tw o r -inchloops on a Leather Runner.

WAISTPLATE.— Fro stedSilver rec tangular Plate with burn ished edges.

On the plate fo r Eng l ish Counties— an Oak leaf wreath with a

Ro se in the centre.

Page 77: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

A

64 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

Fo r Welsh Co unties— Oakleaf wreath with Prince Of Wales’sPlume in th e centre.

Fo r Sco tch Counties— a Thistle wreath with a Thistle in th e

icentre.

Fo r Irish Counties— a Shamro ck wreath with a Shamrock Leaf

as a centre, o n each Petal a Spray o f Shamrock leaves .

SW ORD KNOT.— Go ldLace Strap with Bullion Tassel .

SW ORD — Gilt Hilt, Silver Grip, Straight Blade. On a G ilt Shell, inSilver, th e Royal Cypher and Crown between Sprays of LaurelandBay Leaves.

SCABBARD .

— Black,with g ilt mounting s .

CLOAK AND CAPE — Blue clo th . Turn down co llar, fastened witho n e ho ok and eye, five buttons down th e front, n o sleeves ; aslit at each side with po inted flap , a button andbutton ho le at

th e po int ; back strap fastened with tw o buttons and buttonho les ; slit at back with tw o silk covered buttons inside, thedepth to suit th e wearer. The cape fo rms part of th e garment,thr ee silk covered buttons in front, button ho les in a fly

,long

enough to reach to the knuckles. White lining throughout.Embro idered Co llar Badges.

BOOTS — Plain Mil itary Patent Leather.NO SASH o r SPURS.

GLOVES — White .

Patterns m ay b e seen at the W ar Office . (A G . 7 Dress. )Fo r Mourn ing — A bandof Black Crepe 3} inches wide wo rn on

t he Left arm above th e Elbow.

OLD PATTERN UN IFORM, WAR OFFICE,1 875.

Th e old pattern un ifo rm may b e wo rn un til it requires to b ereplaced: renewals to b e o f th e n ew pattern .

TUN IC .— Scarlet C lo th . Sing le breasted, nine buttons in fron t, tw o

behind, edged white clo th ; Body and skirts lined with white.

Co llar and cuffs embro idered in silver, embro idered scarletslash o n back skirt and g o ld embro idered b adge

'

o n front edgeo f co llar. R o se fo r Eng land, Thistle fo r Sco tland, andShamrockfo r Ireland.

Page 78: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

DEPUTY AND VICE -LIE UTENANTS OF COUNTIES. 65

EMBROIDERY .

— Eng lish and Welsh C oun ties Oakleaf and Aco rnpattern . Sco tch

,Thistle pattern . Irish

, Shamrock pattern .

BUTTONS— Plated, Crown andWreath pattern.

TROUSERS.—B1u e clo th with Silver Lace stripes, t i} inches wide, of

Oakleaf, Thistle o r Shamro ck pattern .

COCKED HAT — Black Beaver o r Silk with silver lo op and go ldbullio n tassels.

PLUME.— White swan feathers, 7 inches long , drooping o utwards.

SWORD — Stra ight silver g rip, Black scabbard and g ilt m o un ting s andring s.

SWORD KNOT.— GOldLace with bullio n tassel.

SWORD BELT — Silver Lace inches wide, of Oakleaf, Thistle o r

Shamrock pattern . Lined Scarlet Leather, with slings an in chwide. W aistplate s ilver square w ith fro sted g round. Eng lishCounties, Wreath and R o se. Welsh Counties, Wreath and

Prin ce o f W ales Plume. Sco tch Coun ties, Wrea th andThistle.

Irish Co unties,Wreath andShamro ck.

BO0TS.- Plain Mil itary Patent Leather. NO SPURS.

WH ITE GLOVES.

CLOAK.— (See N ew Regulations. )

Fo r MOURN ING.— Band of Crepe 33} in ches W ide, wo rn on Left

arm above th e Elbow.

Page 79: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

66 DRESS WORN A T'

L'

GOURT:

THE LORD WARDEN OF THE CIN QUE PORTS.

Th e Official Dress o f th e Lo rdWarden is as fo llowsDRESS COAT o f Blue Clo th , with Co llar and Cuffs of Scarlet

Clo th . The Co l lar has no tchedends. Black Silk lining s .

BUTTONS. Gilt mounted. Th e Garter Star within th e, Gartersurmountedby th e Imperia l Crown .

VVAISTCOAT.— Th e o rdinary Evening Dress (Black) Vest, or a

n o -co llar White Vest with four small g ilt buttons.

TROUSERS.—Plain Black o r Blue Dress material.

Orders andDeco ratio ns are wo rn .

If th e LordWarden is also entitled to wear th e Lieu t en an c yor Tr in it y H o u se U n ifo rm

,on e o f these o rders of dress should

b e wor n at outdo o r functions.

N o Offic ial dress is prescribed for th e Cap t ain s o f th e Po r t

Castles o r o th er Officers o f t h e Cinque Ports.

THE V IC E—ADM IRA L OF THE PROVIN CEU LSTER .

Th e Vic e—Adm ir alo f Ulst er is permitted to wear th e

Unifo rm of a Vice-Admiral Of ‘

t h e R oyal Navy.

Th e R egulations o f th e Admiralty as to Orders of Dress mu st b e

Th is dress is n o t w o rn at C Ou r t fu nc tion s, b u t is the official dress a t

W alm er Castle andwith in the C inque. Ports.

Page 80: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

The C o n stable Lieu tenan t , andMajo r" of the“

ToWen.

Offic ers, th e

Th e‘

bu-t‘

t-ons are gilt. c onvex: with the Star of the Garter, and the

Page 81: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

68 D RESS WORN A T“

(10 0 187 .

THE COR PORATI ON OF THE TR IN ITY HOUSE.

Th e M aste r,Dep u ty Master and Elder B r eth r en and

Sec r e tar y wear un ifo rm as fo l lows

FULL DRESS.

COATED — Blue Clo th , stand co lla r, double—breasted, with eightbuttons in each r ow . Th e co llar, th e cuffs, andth e Slashes on

th e cuffs are of Scarlet Clo th . The co llar has go ldlace on top ,

bo ttom ,and ends . The slashes on th e cuffs are laced with

g o ldon th e top , round th e po ints, andon th e bo ttom ,a ndthere

are three small g ilt buttons on each Slash . A band of go ldlace (on e inch wide) round th e top o f th e cuffs . Poc’ket flapso n th e waist seam, laced roundwith go ldanda large g ilt buttonunder each po int, tw o button s behind at waist, andtw o at th e

bo ttom of th e skirts.

LACE — Go ld, R oyal Navy pattern .

BUTTON St G ilt m ounted. Trinity Coat o f A rms .Body lining s, black Silk. Skirt lining s, white K ersey.

Ep AULETTEs.— Go ldBullion, with th e Trinity Ho use Coat of A rms

andCrest in Silver.

TROUSERS.— Blue Clo th with go ld stripe as fo r Captain , R .N .

SW ORD — As fo r Captain, R .N ., but with Trinity A rms on the hilt.

SW ORD BELT.— BlaCl( , with three bar s of Go ld lace as fo r Captain

R .N . Special Waist Clasp.

SW ORD KNOT.—Blue andGo ldwith bu llion tassel .

COCKED HAT.— AS fo r Captain , R .N .

,Trinity House button On the

lo op .

BOOTS — Plain Patent Leather.

W H ITE GLOVES.

Page 83: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

70 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

GREAT COAT, Boat Cloak, o r Mackinto sh, R oyal Navy pattern , withth e Trinity House buttons. There are special pattern shoulderstraps fo r the Great Coat.

The Orders of Dress and Regulation s issued by th e Admiraltywill b e observed.

N o Official Dress is prescribed fo r Ju n io r Br eth r en of the

Trin itv House.

A t Courts held for the purpo se o f swearing in the M aster o r

H o n o r ar y Elder B r eth r en , o r at such o ther t imes as may b e

specially o rdered, andon occasions o f State or Ceremony th e E lderB r e t h r en Wear the full dress.

On o ther occasion s th e undress u nifo rm is wo rn with o r withoutth e Swo rdandBelt andEpaulettes, as th e occasion may require.

Page 84: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE LORD MA YOR OF LOA’DOIV. 7 1

THE LORD MAYOR OF LONDON .

*

When in the presen ce of the Sovereign within the City.

Th e CR IMSON VELVETROBE of STATEi‘ as fo r an Earl (see pageover a Court Suit of Black Velvet (see page with steelbutto ns and buckles, Black Silk W ig-b ag o r “ Flash, " and lacebands and ruffles, o r over the uniform for 9. Lieutenant of th eCity. (See page

Th e CHA IN andJEWEL over all.

HAT.— Three-co rnered Black, with bo rder of black ostrich feathers.

ON OTHER STATE OCCASIONS.

Th e BLACK ROBE of STATE, trimmed with go ld, over a Co urt Suitof Black Velvet, as detailedabove.

Th e CHA IN andJEWEL.

HAT.—Three-co rnered

,as described above.

ON ORDINARY OCCASIONS.

Th e ALDERMAN ’S ROBE of SCARLET C LOTH,Iwith fu r trimming s, o r

th e Vio let Robe, over a Court Suit of Black Clo th (see pagew ith steel buck les, lace bands andruffles. Th e CHAIN andHAT

as above.

Th e London Ceremonia l Bo ok issu edto the Officers, &c . , of the CityCo rp o ration details the o rders ofdress wo rn o n official occasion s.

‘I' At th e Corona tion of the Sovereign andat c eremonies in connection therew ith a State Rob e of spec ial desig n is worn.

Th e RedRob e is worn wh en th e Lo rdMayor meets the Judges at the

opening of th e Sessions, andit is worn also on Co llar Days. (See page

Page 85: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

72 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

At Drawing -Ro oms, Courts, Levées, &c z— Th e COURT SU IT o f

Black Velvet, as above, with W ig-b ag , lace bands andruffles, Sword,&c .

, andChain . CockedHat .

A t Levées, when presenting newly-appo inted Lieutenants, th e

Lieutenancy Unifo rm (as describedon page may b e w-Orn .

Th e TOW n Cler k and Serjean t—a t—A rm s wear a BLACKTUFTED ROBE over a COURT SU IT o f Black Clo th (see page withsteel buckles

,LACE BANDS and RU FFLES, o r CAMBR IC BANDS.

B-\R RISTER’S W IG.

Th e Sw o rd B ear e r wears a BLACK TU FTED ROBE over a

COURT SU IT of Black Clo th . FUR HAT of special pattern.

LOR DS MAYOR AND MAY ORS

When attending Court in their Officia l capacity w ill wear theCourt Suit of Black Velvet de scribed on page 77, with Black SilkW ig

-b ag o r Flash,

"Lace Bands andRuffles, Swo rd, C ockedHat, &c . ,

andChain andBadge of Office .

THE SH ER IFFS OF LON DON .

FOR DRAWING-ROOMS OR LEVEES.

COURT SU IT o f Black Velvet as described o n page 77, with BlackSilk “ FLASH," LACE BANDS and RU FFLES CHA IN OF OFFICECOCKED’

HAT.

ON OTHER OCCASIONS.

COURT SU IT of Black Velvet o r Clo th . C OCRED HAT.

ROBE — RedClo th, with fu r trimming s, as fo r A ldermen .

CHA IN OF ORFICE .

Page 86: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

THE SHERIFF'

S OF LOND ON . 73

THE C ITY MAR SHA L.

FULL DRESS.

COATEE — Scarlet clo th, sing le breasted standco llar hook andeye

up fro nts the co llar andcuffs of Blue Clo th. Six double barso f g o ld lace acro ss th e fronts, th e top bars extending to 7 inchesat th e po int o n each side, and the bo ttom bars to 3% inches.The lace is 3 inch wide, and a light of th e scarlet clo th showsbetween th e tw o stripes of the bars . A large g ilt button at th e

po ints on bo th sides . Three double chevrons of g- inc h lace. on

each cuff, th e lower chevron being partly on the blue cuff. A

l ight of th e clo th shows between th e stripes of th e chevrons, andthere is a button in th e centre of each . Three larger ch evronson th e skirts, with scarlet light and buttons as o n th e cuffs .Tw o buttons at th e waist behind, and there is a special figure o f

g- inch lace on th e back,and small squares of th e same o n th e

back Skirts in line with th e skirt chevrons . Th e co lla r is lacedwith g- inch lace. t ite Silk lining s .

LACE — Go ld, tw o vellum pattern .

BUTTONS — G ilt,deadandbright, City arms andsuppo rters .

EpAULETTEs.—Go ldBullion o n Scarlet Clo th.

TROUSERS — Blue Clo th, Go ldOakleaf Lace Stripes 2 inches wide.

SWORD — Gilt hilt andbrass scabbard.

SW ORD BELT AND SLINGS.— Go ldLace (oakleaf) with waist clasp of

City arms.

SWORD KNOT.— Go ldandCrim son Strap andAco rn .

COCKED HAT.— AS fo r Staff of Army, City button on th e lo op .

PLUM E — White swan’s fea thers,with redfeathers under, on feathered

stern 3 inches high .

GLOVES— White.

BOOTS — Pla in Military Patent Leather.

SPURS — Gil t, swan-n ecked.

Page 87: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

74 DRESS IVORN A T COURT.

FOR MOUNTED DUTIES.

BLUE PA NTALOONs, with stripes as on th e trouser s .Patent Leather KN EE BOOTS, army pattern .

GrLT SPURS and CHA INS.

UNDRESS.

COATEE — Blue Clo th, cut as fo r Full Dress , scarlet c o llar andcuffs . Th e lac e bars on th e front s, lace chevro ns o n th e cuffsandsk ir ts, andsmall squares Oni the back skirts as o n th e FullDress Coat. Nolace o n back . Smal l squares of lace on th e

co llar ends.

Body lined White Italian skirts linedblack.

SCALES — Go ld Shoulder scales on blue clo th .

TROUSERS— Blu e Clo th,with stripes o f scarlet. clo th 2

Allo ther“ articles as In FullDre ss.Th e B-LUE ARMY MACKINTOS-H.

‘ is worn when required.

SADDLERY of special pattern .

Page 88: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

AIETR OI’OLITAIV POLICE. 75

METROPOL ITAN POLI CE .

The C omm issio n er andA ssistan t C om m issio n er s.

FULL DRESS.

TUN IC — Blue clo th . Sing le breasted, s tand co llar. Co llar and

cuffs of Black Velvet, wide Silver Oakleaf Embro idery on the

fron ts. Th e co llar, cuffs and backskirts also emb ro idered.

Plaited G imp Silver shoulder co rds. Black Silk linings.TROUSERS o r PANTALOON s.

—Blue Clo th with wide silver lace stripes.HAT.

— Black Silk CockedHat with black feather bo rder.SWORD — Infantry pattern, with Royal Cypher o n th e Guard. Steel

Hilt andScabbard.

SW ORD BELT andSLINGS o f Silver Lace.

SWORD KNOT— Silver lace strap andacorn.

BOOTS.— Plain Military Paten t Leather.

SPURS— Pla ted.

KN EE BOOTS fo r mountedduties .GLOVES— White.

C h ief Co n sta b les o f Dist r ic ts. (Metropo l itan Po lice.)

BLUE TUN IC trimmed with black co rd as fo r R ifle reg imen ts. Silveroakleaf embro idery on the co llar.

COCKED HAT— Black co ckade andBlack co rd loop.

TROUSERS o r PANTALOONs.— Blue Clo th with black bra id St ripes.

SWORD — Steel Hilt andScabbard.

SWORD BELT (worn under the tunic).— B1u e w eb with silver lacedsling s .

SWORD KNOT.— Black.

BOOTS— Plain Military.

KN EE BOOTS fo r Mounted Duties .

SPURS — Pla ted or Steel.

GLOVES— White or Brown .

Page 89: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

76 DRESS IVURN —7T C 0 UR T.

COURT DR ESS.

Gentlemen w h o have n o SpecialUn ifo rm o r o rder o f dress,will wear one o r o ther of the fo llowing

Velve t Co u r t Dr ess.

COAT— Black Silk Velvet, standco llar, sing le breasted. Th e frontsare cut small andcann o t b e buttoned : to b e wo rn Open . Plainround gaun tlet cuffs . Po cket flaps

,with three po ints on th e

waist seam . Six buttons ar e placed on th e R ight fo repart, anda

similar n u mb er'

of blind o r dummy ho les on the Left. Tw o

buttons at th e waist behind, andtw o at th e bo ttom of th e skirts.White Silk lining s thro ugho ut.

BUTTONS— Cut Steel.*

lVAISTCOAT.— White Satin or Black Silk Velvet. N o co llar. Four

buttons of small siz e, to match the coat.

BREECHES.— Black Silk Velvet, with three small steel buttons, a nd

s tee l* buckles at the knees.

HOSE — Black Silk.

SHOES— Black Patent Leather,with steel* buckles.

HAT.

— B lack Beaver o r Silk Co ckedHat, with a steel loop* o n a

black silk cockade o r ro sette.

SWORD — Steel hilt, with black scabbardandsteel moun tings.*

SWORD BELT.— Black Silk W eb Wa istbelt Worn under th e w aistcoat

,

with Black Velvet frog fo r th e Swo rd.

WH ITE BOW NECKTIE andWH ITE GLOVES.

See Special paragraph as to RoyalA cadem ic ians on page 78.

Page 91: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 92: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

COUR T DRESS. 77

Velvet C o u r t Dr ess (Old Sty le) .

COAT— Black Silk Velvet, stand co llar, sing le breasted. Sevenbuttons on R ight front and seven “ blind co rd ho les o n the

Left . Th e fro n ts meet edge to edge at a po in t on th e breast,where they are secured with a ho ok and eye. Plain ro und

gauntlet c u fl'

, with three butto ns o n the top . Po intedflaps onwaist seam

,with three butto ns, on e under each po int. Six

buttons behind, that is, tw o at th e waist, tw o at centre o f skirt,andtw o at the bo ttom o f th e skirt. White silk lining s througho u t . A W ig

-b ag o r Flash " is placed at th e back o f th e necko n th e co llar seam .

BUTTONS— Cut Steel .WA ISTCOAT.

— Black Silk Velvet o r White Satin . Skirted fronts,po inted flaps to the pockets, with three buttons under each flap .

BREECHES.

— Black Silk Velvet, w ith three small steel buttons, andsteel buck les at th e knees.

HOSE — Black Silk.

SHOES— Black Paten t Leather, with steel buckles .

SW ORD— Sl ing Swo rd, with steel hilt and black scabbard with steelmounting s .

SWORD BELT.— Black Silk Web Waistb elt with Sling s .

FR ILLS AND RUFFLES.

WH ITE GLOVES.

The N ew o r Old Style Court D ress as detailed above m ay b e

wo rn at Co urts, Levées, andEvening State Parties.

AT LEVEEs.— Trousers of Black Silk Velvet may b e wo rn w ith

th e N ew Style Court Dress . Plain Military Paten t Leather Boo ts

are wo rn with Trousers .Frills andRuffles are n o t wo rn with the New Style Court Dress

except by tho se ho lding ofiic ialpo sition s : M ayo r s, Sh er iffs ,

Alderm e n,&c .

Fo r th e rules as to w earing Orders andDeco rations, see pages 8 1—4 .

Fo r Mo u r n in g .— Band o f Black Crepe 33; inches wide wo rn

o n th e left arm above th e elbow.

OVERCOAT.

—A Black Invern ess Cape, or a long full black o r very

dark Overcoat, should b e wo rn with Court Dress.

Page 93: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

78 DRESS IVORN AT COUR T.

R oya l A c adem ic ian s.

R oyal Academicians will wear th e Velvet Court Dressdescribed, with details as fo llowsBUTTONS.

— Gilt Mounted . Crown andR A .

SHOE AND KN EE BUCKLES.— Gilt.

SWORD AND SCABBARD .— Gilt hilt andmounting s .

HAT— Th e Cocked Hat h as a go ldlo op .

Clo t h Co u r t D r eSS.

*

Fo r Courts andEvening State Parties .

COAT.—Dark Co loured Clo th ; Mu lberry

,Claret, o r Green . Stand

c o l lar,Sing le brea sted. The fronts are ou t smal l and canno t b e

buttoned; to b e worn open . R ound gauntlet cuffs. Pocketflaps

,with three po ints in th e waist seam . Six buttons o n

th e right fo repart, and a co rresponding number o f“ blind

o r dummy ho les o n th e left. Tw o buttons at the waist behind,

and tw o at th e bo ttom o f the skirts . Black Silk lining s .Go ld embr o idery on the co llar, cuffs, andpo cket flaps similar toth e sth Class Civil Unifo rm .

BUTTONS — G ilt,convex

,with mountedImperial Crown .

W A ISTCOAT — White Co rded Silk o r White Marcella. N o co llar .Four small g il t butto ns of same design as o n Coat.

BREECHES.— Same c lo th as th e Coat. Three small covered buttons

at the knee andg ilt buckles .HOSE — Black o r White Silk.

SHOES— Black Patent Leather, with g ilt buckles.HAT.

— BlaCl( Beaver o r Silk Co cked Hat,with black silk cockade

o r ro sette, andgo ldlo op with g ilt button .

SWORD — Court Dress Swo rd, with g ilt hilt. Black scabbard, With

g ilt mounting s .SWORD KNOT.

—Go ld.

SWORD BELT.— W 0 rn under the Ves t. Black Silk W eb , with frog of

-clo th to match th e Coat .WH ITE BOW NECKTIE.

WH ITE GLOVES.

Common ly known as Levee Dress.

Page 94: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

COUR T DRESS. 79

COAT,

WA ISTCOAT,SW ORD ,

SWORD KNOT, &c .,

N ECKTIE,

GLOVES, jTROUSERS— Same Clo th as Coat, with row of go ld lace

the Side seams.BOOTS — Plain Militar y Patent Leather.

As described above.

Fo r M o u r n in g — Band of Black Crepe, 3} in ches w ide, wo rno n th e left mm above the e lbow.

A Black o r very dark Inverness Cape, o r a long full dark Overcoat

,sho uld b e wo rn with this dress.

THE H IGH LAND K ILT.

Th e HIGHLAND K ILT, with Do u blet of Cloth or Velvet,and

C laymo re and Dirk, may b e wo rn at Court as a Military Unifo rm,

but o nly by HighlandGen tlemen .

IN IRELAND .

Special Un ifo rms are prescribed fo r

ULSTER K ING OF ARMS.

ATHLONE PURSUIVANT o r ARMS.

LORD LIEUTENANT’S HOUSEHOLD.

COMMISSIONERS OF (Du blin) METROPOLITAN POLICE.

ROYAL HIBERN IAN ACADEMIC IANS.

CROWN SOLIC ITORS.

INSPECTOR-GENERAL}Royal Irish Con stabulary.

DEPUTv INSPECTOR-GEN ERAL

Page 95: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

80 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

PEERS’ R OBES.

The STATE ROBE or MANTLE is made of Crimson Velvet andl inedwith plain White Silk. Th e front edges are furred w ith Miniverand there is a co llar o f Min iver and a deep Cape ofMin iverpure, and powdered with bars o r rows of Ermine n arrowpieces of black fu r) acco rding to degree.

For a Du k e, four R ows .Mar q u is, three rows anda half.

an Ear l , three rows .a Visc o u n t , tw o rows anda half.Bar o n , tw o rows.

Th e Robe is wo rn over th e Full Dress Reg imen tals, o r Unifo rm o f

any rank or appo in tment held, o r o ver a Court Suit of BlackVelvet with g ilt buttons andbuckles, and lace bands andruffles .

CORON ETS are made of Silver G ilt, with Crimso n Velvet Cap with a

go ld tassel in th e centre, and a border of powdered Miniverbelow th e circlet. The circlet is chased and above it there are

For a Du k e, eight Go ldStrawberry Leaves .Mar qu is, four Go ldStrawberry Leaves andfour Silver

Balls.For an Earl. Above th e R im

,o n Po in ts are eight Silver

Ba lls. Go ld Strawberry Leaves between the Po in ts.For a Visc o u n t . Immedia tely above andadjo in ing th e Rim

ar e sixteen Silver Balls.Fo r a B a r o n . Th e Circlet is pla in and above the rim are

six Silver Balls at equal distances.N o jewels o r precious sto nes are used in th e Co ron ets, o r

coun terfeit pearls in stead o f silver balls. The Co ro nets of

Peeresses are reduced facsimiles o f tho se of th e Peers .The PEERS’ ROBE of SCARLET CLOTH (kn own as the

“ PARLIAMENTARY ROBE " ) is of Scarlet Superfine Clo th, with Ermin e andGo ldLace, and is trimmed acco rding to rank. It is worn only inthe House of Lo rds or when th e Peers pro ceed as a body to a ChurchService or o ther Ceremony.It is wo rn over un ifo rm by th e Members of th e Governmen t o r of

the K ing’s Househo ld, andover mo rn ing dress on o rdinary occasio ns.

Page 96: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 97: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 99: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

82 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

At Reviews andCeremonies when th e o rders are ReviewOrder,Staff in Blue," one Star may b e wo rn with th e Frock Coat.

Th e STARS of BR ITISH ORDERS are wo rn on the Left Breas t.

Th e STARS of FOREIGN ORDERS on the R ight o r Left Breast,acco rding to the Regulations laid down by the Sovere ign by whomthey are conferred.

The Order ofMerit is wo rn suspended round th e n eck. Thereis n o Min iature of this Order.

K n ig h ts C om m ander s and Comm ander s of the severalOrders, when in Unifo rm,

wear the R iband under the Co llar of th eCoat, so that th e Badge may hang outside about tw o inch es below thebo ttom edge o f the Co llar.

Other Orders, Deco rations, and Medals are wo rn on the LeftBreast of the Coat. They are wo rn in a horiz o ntal line, suspendedfrom a single b ar (of which the buckle must n o t b e seen), o r stitchedon to the garment and placed in l ine between the first andsecondbuttons from th e top . Th e Buckles attached to the R ibbon s of the

3rdClass of the Orders of the Bath andSt. Michael andSt. Geo rgeslzoula' be seen . (See page

When DECORATIONS and MEDALS cann o t, on accoun t of theirn umber, b e suspended from th e b ar so as to b e fully seen , they are tooverlap.

MILITARY MEDALS are to b e wo rn in the o rder of the Campaigns,the first being placed farthest from the Left Shoulder. (See page

MEDALS awardedby the Royal Human e Society are wo rn on the

R ight Breast.

Mem b e r s andHo n o r ary Mem b er s o f the Order o f th e

Ho sp italo f S. J o h n o f J er u salem will wear the Badge of the

Order.

In Fo reign Coun tries Orders, Deco ration s, andMedals will b ewo rn when Fo reign Officers andOfficials wear theirs.

Page 100: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

ORDERS, DE CORATIONS, AND MEDALS. 83

Orders, Deco rations, andMedals are not wo rn upon UndressUnifo rm, Gr eat Coats,

o r White Clo thing , except when th e latter isused as Review Order.

Miniature Orders, Decorations,

and Medals are worn withMilitary Mess Dress Spé CialR egulation s fo r which will b e publishedin “

Dress Regulations fo r th e Army.

"

WITH UNDRESS MILITARY UNIFORM.

R ibbons only of Deco rations and Medal s will b e wo rn withUndress Unifo rm . These ribbons will b e half an inch in depth andsewn on the Uniform o r wo rn o n a b ar

,but the b ar must n o t b e

seen . There should b e n o interval between th e ribbons,and they

must n o t overlap, but m ay b e wo rn in tw o o r mo re rows if necessary.

K n ig h t s G r and Cr o ss, K n ig h ts G r and Comm an der s and

K n ig h t s Com m ander s wear the Companion’s ribbons upon t he

Undress garments .

ORDERS AND DECORATIONS WITH PLAIN CLOTHES.

Th e Stars and Broad R ibands o f Orders, and the Badges o f

Orders wo rn suspendedround th e neck, andmin ia tu r e reproductionsof o ther Deco rations andMedal s are wo rn with Pla in Clo thes (EveningDress), on ly on o ccasions where the Sovereign o r th e Royal Family o rFo reign Ro yal Personages are present or at Official Dinners and

Receptions . They are wo rn only with Evening Dress unless SpecialDirection s are issued to the contrary.

They are wo rn in the presence of Viceroys andGoverno rs-General .

Th e above rules do n o t apply to th e existing custom o f KnightsGrand Cro ss o f the various o rders wearing their Deco rations whenattending Entertainments g iven by Knights o f the same rank .

Page 101: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

84 DRESS WORN A T COURT.

The Broad R ibands are wo rn under th e coat and over th e

waistcoat.

C o lou r of the R ibandOrder of the

(4 in ch es wide)GARTER* Garter Blue

TH ISTLE* Green

ST. PATR ICK Sky Blue

BATH'l' Crimson

Light Blue with narrowWhiteSTAR OF INDIATStripe near to either edge

ST. MICHAEL AND

ST. GEORGE,Blue W ith Scarlet Stripe n h t Shoulder.

IND IAN Purple (Imperial Blue) R ight Shoulder.

Blue with a red stripe nearROYAL VICTOR IAN to either edge ; a whiteORDERT l ine in centre of th e red n h t Shoulder.

stripes

K n ig h t s C om m ander s and Comm ander s will wear the

badge upon a riband tw o inches wide, roundth e neck, over the shirtco llar andunder th e b ow necktie, th e badge to hang suspended abouttw o inches below th e bo ttom of the shirt co llar. (There are n o

miniatures of badges wo rn round th e neck.) Th e miniatureDeco rations andMedals are wo rn upon a b ar and in the o rderdescribed fo r Full Dress . Th e b ar may extend acro ss the lappel ofthe coat .

There are no m in iatu res o r n arrow rib b o n s fo r th ese Orders.

'i' Th e GrandStars are no t wo rn in m in iatu re excep t as providedfo r byArmyRegu lations for Mess Dress.

Over w h ichSh o ulder.

Left Shoulder.

Left Shoulder.

R ight Shoulder.

R ight Shoulder.

R ight Shoulder.

Page 103: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

86 DRESS WoRJv AT came-r .

Monday.

Tri‘

n iity‘

Sundays.

January Ist“

, New Year’s

March Ist

Mdy Day .

April2 3rd

St . John th e Bap t t .

St Peter.

Ju ly asth

August 9th The King’s C

'

oro nation .

Oc tob e r L8-th St . Luke.

Page 104: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

COLLAR DA YSL 87

AllSain ts .

The“

K ing’

s Birthday.

3o th St . Andrew .

December Ist Queen Alexandra’s Birthday.

z rst St . Thomas.2sth

and Prorogation of Parliamen t

And when o rderedby the Sovereign.

M E .— On Co llar Days HUM Judges wear their Scarlet Robes in

th e Courts of Law .

Page 105: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

88 DRESS WORN AT COUR T;

C OURT MOURNING.

When a period of Cou rt Mo urning is announced, every wearerof Uniform or Court Dress must. observe the rules indicated in thisbook .

White Bow Neckt ie is always used.

Black GloVes are only wo rn when orders are issuedbyEarl Mar shal Or LordChamberlain .

SALUTES AND HO N OURS.

It i s cus tomary for tho se w earing Unifo rm to salu teR ight hand, the Standards o r Colours of Reg iment s.

When Saluted by a So ldier, Constable o r Othe r Offic ial,Salute shou ldb e. return edwith th e R ight hand.

The R igh t hand is kept at th e “Salute during the playing of

the NationalAnth em, o r the head bared by those holding c ivilappo intments.

Page 107: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

96 DRESS WORN AT COUR T:

HINTS [IN THE CARE AN D PR ESERVATI ON OF

UN IFORM .

Allgoldandsilverlacedgarments Or artic les shoruldb e foldedo r

Should.be taken tha t n o artic le is pu t away damp. Allarticles liable

andbrushedin th e open air .

paper, or tur pentine sprinkled On brown paper should b e placedamong th e article s of unifo rm w hich ar e to b e packedaway for any

a mixture of cream of tartar and dry br ead rubbed up veryappliedin a dry“ s tate andbrushedlight ly with

a cIean soft brush .

HARRISON SONS, PRINTS-Rs IN ORDINARY 3r d HIS MAJESTY ,ST, MARTIN

'

S LANE .

Page 108: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 109: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

TELEPHON E 60 2 HOLBORN .

FOUNDED IN THE REIGN W ILLIAM AND MARY. 1689 .

R o b e Mak e r s C o u r t Ta ilo r s(Boga"w ar ran t iso fb crs

t o ibis w ajesfg é fie Qfiing .

JEQIL Queen Qf’exanb ra anb G QI) . mic Quince anb Qt incess of w alks .

H.M. COURT LEVEE SUITS.

DIPLOMATIC and CIVIL UNIFORMS.

PEERS’ROBES MANTLES fo r ORDERS of KNIGHTHOOD.

ORDER RIBBONS.

CHURCH, STATE, LEGAL, UNIVERSITY , MUNICIPAL ROBES.

93 8: 94, Chancery Lane , London , W .C.

Page 111: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

iv . D r ess Wor n a t ( b u rl

NAVAL MILITARY .

C LUB . and LIVERY

Bu tto n Man u fac tu r e r s

BYAPPOINTMENTTU

A rm y

Go n t r a c to r s .

108 6: 109, ST. MARTIN’

S LANE, LONDON, W .C.

West EndBranch— 47, WARWICK ST., W. Works— LONDON BIRMINGHAM.

AT

THE HAMMAM

( OR TURKISH BATH ) .

ALLEN EARY, E

D

Glnu rt,“

filt h“ i"militat g fiailm'

g ,

Ltd. ,

ESTABLISHED

OVER

200 YEARS.

HISMAJESTYKINGEDWARDVII.

N aval , Military , and Civil, Go ld and

Silver Lac e Man u fac tu rers and

Em b ro iderer s .

Co u r t Sw o rds, Hats, Bu ckles, & c .

Helm ets, C aps, Belts, & c & c .

Page 112: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 113: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

v i . D r ess "for " a t Cou r t

Sp ecial.featu r es

Olll‘ I‘

CSS

orms

Mikers of the W AR OFFICE SEALED

PATTERN CLOAK o r GREAT COAT

fo r u se w ith the Lieu ten an cy Un ifo rm .

Go um‘

JWi/ifa ry

Page 115: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books
Page 116: Dress Gentlem - Forgotten Books

BY‘

SPEC IAL APPOINTMENT

C OA’

CT TO

E‘

STY THE KING

A lso by Specia l A p po in tm ent to

ROYALHIGHNESSTHE PRINCE OFWALES.

A nd COACHBUILDERS to

PRINC ESS LOUISE,DUC HESS OF FIFE.

THE DUKE OF C ONNAUGHT .

PRINC ESS CHRISTIAN .

PRINC ESS LOUISE,DUC HESS OF ARGYLL.

THE DUC HESS OF ALBANY .

THE DUKE OF C AMBRIDGE.

Fo r Sixty Year s ( 1 84 1 to 1 90 1 ) COA CHBUILDERS to

HER LATE MAJESTY QUEEN VTCTORTA {

E

E

E

E

E

E

E

P

E

E

P

E

C a r r ia g e s o f B e s t Qu ality o nly — H ig h e s t W o r k m a n s h ip

Fin e s t Ma t e r ials— Ex clu s iv e De s ig n s .

ELECTRIC C ARRIAGES— SMARTEST AND MOST RELIABLE TYPES

54, ST.‘

JAMES’SSTREET, lIlNDIIN, s.w.