dressforsuccess.pdf

Dress for Success: Mens Fashion Coordination:

Suits, Shirts & Ties

An ebook by mens-fashion-tips.com

Copyright 2006 mens-fashion-tips.com 1

Dress for Success: Mens Fashion Coordination: Suits, Shirts & Ties

LEGAL NOTICES This book may not be freely distributed or its content altered without the permission

of the author. You are not allowed to change the look, feel or content of this book in any shape,

form or fashion. You do not have resell rights to this book nor the right to charge for this book or

derive profit from it. If you think you may be in possession of an illegally distributed copy of this book, please contact us:

Please email the author at [email protected]

COPYRIGHT NOTICE All content contained within Dress for Success: Coordinating Suits, Shirts, Ties and

Shoes is Copyright mens-fashion-tips.com. All rights reserved. Unauthorized distribution, resale, or copying of this material is

unlawful. No portion of this book may be reproduced, copied or resold without the written permission of the author. The author reserves the right to use the full force of the law in the protection of his intellectual property, including: the contents, ideas and expressions contained herein.

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Foreword

Ive always had an interest in putting things together beautifully since young so its no surprise that I receive complements for my dress sense. I realized this is due to strong spatial thinking as well as a developed sensitivity to color, cut and pattern. Before long, Im helping friends and family with their wardrobe queries and even designed clothes for a 2-generation family in preparation for a wedding!

Over the years, Ive observed men who recognize the value of proper attire and thepositive image projected by a well-dressed male. However, many struggle to find a way to dress well to enhance their masculinity. This led to the creation of www.mens-fashion-tips.com which I hope will help men, and women who cares about them, peek into the world of handsomely attired men and understand what makes them so.

My fashion education continues to this day. My sensitivity to color and pattern mixing has improved and is enriched by diverse sources like travel, art and people around me. I admit I have my share of coordination mistakes, especially when I was just starting out. This has sharpened my appreciation of how I, as a male, would like add my personal stamp sartorially without looking faddish in this age of cookie-cutter fashion. As I continue to receive queries on coordinating suits, shirts, ties and shoes, I thought itd be great to share my experience and opinion on this aspect of mens fashion coordination. Hence, this ebook was born.

Its also meant to be:1. A complement to www.mens-fashion-tips.com, illustrating examples where possible, of

the different color and pattern coordination with respect to suits, shirts, ties, shoes and socks.

2. A guide with the eventual aim of helping you create a personal look, with examples to help guide you through the initial stages of mix-and-match.

If there are any questions or comments upon reading this, please email me at: [email protected] . Lets go to the first chapter..


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/mailto:[email protected]


ContentLegal/Copyright Notice P2Foreword P31.0 Mens fashion coordination p52.0 Color coordination shirt, tie and suit p5

2.1 Color coordination vs complexion p52.2 Color coordination of outfit p5

3.0 Pattern coordination p213.1 Mixing two similar pattern p213.2 Mixing 2 different pattern p223.3 Mixing 3 different pattern p263.4 Mixing 3 different pattern where 2 are similar p283.5 Mixing 3 similar pattern p303.6 Mixing 4 different pattern p32

4.0 Dress shoe coordination p335.0 Hot accessories for that finishing touch p356.0 Suits details to note p38


Dress for Success:Mens Fashion Coordination: Suits, Shirts and Ties

1. Mens Fashion Coordination

Fashion coordination involves putting color, patterns, textures together. At www.mens-fashion-tips.com, these are explained in detail. This e-book is meant to illustrate the coordination concepts in the website by showing how disparate elements work together sartorially and providing details to achieve the best coordination. As such, thered be links back to the website to put the ideas forward.

2. Color CoordinationColor coordination involves two aspects: Coordinating clothing against our complexion and creating color harmony between different hues and shades. Lets take at look at each.

2.1 Color Coordination and Our ComplexionThe key objective is to divert the focus onto our face and not our clothes. Factors to consider are the skin tone, hair color and lastly the eye color.

This is explained here so I will move on to..

2.2 Color Coordination of OutfitBefore proceeding further, take a look at the characteristics of the color wheel. This will provide the basic knowledge of color description and explains differences between color which will beused subsequently.

Note that to illustrate the coordination clearly, it is inevitable that the discussion overlaps with the information from my website.


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/color-coordination-and-mens-complexion.htmlhttp://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/color-coordination.html


2.2 Color Coordination of Outfit

Color Coordination Base on Same Hue:

Same hue color coordination involves variations of one hue. So the harmony between them are beautiful and soothing.

Whether we coordinate with two color or three color, there is hardly any chance for the color coordination to go wrong. The above examples show how we can use varying color of the same hue to attain variety and yet synchrony.



Color Coordination Base on Same Hue:

Similar hue color coordination involves hues that are either adjacent in the color chart or shades that are on adjacent columns in thecolor chart.

Pairing light color with dull color gives a spring feel.

This is illustrated by the ensemble of light pink striped shirt with dull reddish-brown tie and ivory jacket (below).



Dress for Success: Mens Fashion Coordination: Suits, Shirts and Ties


Color Coordination Base on Similar Hue:

Vivid colors combined with light colors are vibrant with a summer touch.

Here, a light beige suit is coordinated with a tie of similar hue. The vivid orange stripes on the tie acts as an accent to thissummer ensemble.

The combination of dull blue tie with dark ink blue suit (below) is the perfect color coordination for a wintery style.





The handsome combination of lavender, mauve, aubergine and deep blue (below) shows how you can creatively put similar and same hue together with lan. This outfit also show how you can work with three similar hues to create an interesting coordination. Here, we see how light color (mauve stripe on shirt), dull color(lavender pocket square), dark color (deep blue tie) and a dash of vivid color (lavender paisley print on tie) are harmoniously put together.





For an autumn feel, put one dark color against two dull colors.

The 2 ensembles below show same hue coordination for a fall and spring look. The dark blue tie on the left is matched with a dull blue shirt while the vivid blue tie on the right is coordinated with a light blue shirt and deep blue suit.

Another possible combination is to mix two light colors against one dull color. The ensemble below illustrates this with blue striped shirt against dark blue jacket and accented by a pale green patterned tie. The light blue pattern on the tie mirrors the blue of the shirt and brings a naturalness to the ensemble.




Color Coordination Base on Contrasting Hue:

As explained here, we can get good coordination by combining two light color. The ensemble below illustrates this on the shirt and tie while the tie and suit coordination shows how you can coordinatelight and dull contrasting color.

Another example of combining two light contrasting color (see below).

Detail: To enhance the naturalness of the coordination, the stripes on the shirt and tie as well as the edge of the pocket square are of the same color


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/contrasting-hues-color-coordination.html




Alternatively, you may also look at a few combinations of widelyacceptable contrasting dark colors in mens fashion (see below).

The contrasting hues on the tie (see below) are matched with a light blue shirt. Note the variation of vivid + dull (tie and shirt) and vivid + dark (bands on tie) on the same ensemble.





Interesting combinations can also be achieved with three contrasting color. This involves combining different shades rather than having all from the same shade or of different hues. You can get more information from this page.

The suit below illustrates the classic combination of light + vivid + dark contrasting hue.

As youd have realized by now, there is no hard and fast rule on creating color harmony. Most important is experiencing it!

Detail (right): The matte suit fabric is the perfect canvas for the lime green tie and navy checked pocket square; both in glossy silk. This is also a lesson in contrasting texture coordination


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/contrasting-hues-color-coordination.html



Color Coordination Base on Complementary Hue:

As the hues are opposite each other, this is not an easy coordination compared to the rest. My web page has given some suggestions of color combination and Ill endeavor to illustrate with shirt, suit and tie coordination here..

The examples below show how light + light complementary hue for the shirt and tie mixes well with a charcoal and medium gray suit.

Detail (above): Notice how similar color combination work to create different looks?


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/complementary-hues-color-coordination.html




The ties below are good examples of color coordination with different shades of complementary hue.

The dark + dull color coordination on the tie complements the dark gray suit:

P???





Some examples of the nicer complementary hues color coordinationbetween dark and vivid colors:

Heres another example of the blue-orange hue coordination but with varying shades to add interest (see below).

A fine combination of vivid patterned tie with a dark blue suit (right) P163

Detail: A tie in contrasting hue (blue + yellow) is added to show how the same shirt works in harmony with a different color coordination





The ensemble below exemplify three color coordination with 2 complementary color. To ensure harmony, the third color is in-between the two.

With respect to color coordination, both the yellow and blue stripes are kept light so orange remains the focus color. This is complemented by the dark suit.

Personally, complementary is a misnomer here as the color coordination is the most difficult of all.

The best way to master coordination is to keep trying ways to have a real feel of the color flow and rhythm.

Detail: Play with different shades of the same color! The turquoise pocket square harmonizes naturally with the blue stripes on the tie. A vivid pocket square of orange or yellow would also work handsomely




Color Coordination with Achromatic Hue:

Every men would have no problem coordinating color with black, gray or white. The basic principles of coordination with these hue are mentioned here and Ill supplement with some finer points here:

Light colors go better with gray and dark gray though fashion of late favored light color + light gray combination for spring-summer ensemble. This look is most suitable for those with light skin tone but an aberration on high contrast complexion. Thus, approach this combination with caution.

I tend to favor combining dull color with medium or dark gray. The diagrams below illustrate some classic combinations which works every time.





Working with vivid colors provides a fashionable alternative as mens fashion color is predicted to move to brighter color for the next few seasons. To leverage on this, match vivid color with light gray or black. Vivid with dark gray does not bring out the vivid as much as light gray or black does.





Darks colors can also work with achromatic hue with gray or black being the preferred color. Muddled colors like dark brown or olive green have a tendency to have too much gray in them and make blending against gray difficult.

The example above illustrates how dark muddy colors can be cleverly coordinated using different shades of gray and dark brown tie. The white polka-dots on the tie relieve the tension from having too much gray in the tie. The pale pink pocket square is a refreshing break from the gray palette and brings harmony to the ensemble.

Other colors when used in achromatic hues color coordination should always be used as an accent. For example, a gray suit with a dull-colored pocket square to bring out a nice subtle contrast.

The suit on the left illustrates this concept perfectly



3.0 Pattern Coordination of Outfit

Like color coordination, pattern coordination should also strive to give a smooth and natural transition between patterns. This involves working with different scales and space between patterns. Lets take a look at the various ways to work with pattern coordination.

3.1 Mixing 2 Similar Pattern:

As mentioned earlier and in my website, mixing two similar patterns boils down to size of the stripes as well as the spacing between the stripes. So we need to ensure these two factors be as different as possible.

If two small size stripes are put together, the effect can create quite a bit of tension between them. When having two different stripes yet with similar spacing makes it difficult to put the attention on either stripe.

The dark irregular stripes on the tie relieves the tension of the light evenly spaced stripes on the suit (left).

A more straightforward combination of a regimental striped tie with finer striped shirt (right).

Detail: The similar color combination enhances the naturalness of this ensemble.


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/mixing-two-similar-patterns.html



3.1 Mixing 2 Similar Pattern:

Mixing two similar patterns like checks applies the same theory as the stripes. But checks have more intense pattern compared to stripes, so it can be more difficult to coordinate.

A safe rule of the thumb is to avoid using two similar sized checks together but use contrasting scaled checks.

In all, mixing two similar patterns boils down to using two designs with different scales and different spacing.

The similarity in checks makes an awkward combination (2 pictures on top) while the bottom left picture showed a smoother transition in coordination even though with more contrast.




3.2 Mixing 2 Different Pattern:

This coordination continues to involve the scale and size of thepatterns. However, the concept of this matching differs from twosimilar pattern matching as mentioned here.

The key is to identify and differentiate between the first pattern and the second. The first pattern is usually the one that takes up most of your body while the second creates the accent.

Good color coordination is important to ensure harmony and naturalness in coordination. When in doubt, it is safe to have colors of the same hue or similar hue from both patterns.

The next page features some more examples of 2 pattern combinations using similar or same hue.

The striped tie is the focus in this combination accented by the printed pocket handkerchief. The pink/yellow of the latter mirrors the pink stripes on the tie and brings a naturalness to the ensemble.


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/matching-two-different-patterns.html




Other than color, we also need to take note of the scales of thepattern:

1) The scales of the two different patterns need to be as close as possible for those ranging from bigger to medium-sized scaled patterns. This is to ensure one pattern does not overwhelm the other. 2) For smaller scaled or more complicated design, it is better to match with wider spaced pattern. That way, the vibration would not be so intense, as illustrated below.

In the broader scheme, the tie should always remain an accent tothe outfit and we should avoid taking too much attention from the suit. Notice how the ties in the examples above blend with the suits?

A play of scale where the small stripes on the shirt is balanced by the bold stripes on the tie (left). Again, the latter is of focus while the shirt is the accent.

The small-sized and tightly woven pattern on the fashionable slim tie is matched with the larger and wider-spaced polka-dots on the handkerchief (right).





That said, a high contrast tie can still work with a suit but in my opinion, it would take a more flamboyant attitude and character to carry this dressing style well. Note the examples Ive chosen below.

For men who are unsure, choosing a bigger scale pattern against a smaller would always be a safer choice.

(Above left) The bright orange polka-dot tie stands out against the shell pink striped shirt with similar hue coordination. The fuchsia pocket square adds an interesting accent to the outfit.

(Above right) The citrine striped tie is matched with a printed pocket square in the same shade of yellow. This dull blue stripes on the tie matches the shirt and suit which brings a naturalness to the whole ensemble.





Moving up the scale, three different patterns is challenging to most men but it is also the most stylish sartorially if successfully done.

I cannot stress enough the importance of scaling between the patterns; especially when mixing three different patterns.

Whenever there is involvement of patterns starting out from the suit, the choice of the other patterns should naturally be preferred to be of the same scale.

Keeping the scaling consistent between the patterns gives any man a safe choice when mixing three different patterns

The patterns on the pencil striped suit, printed silk tie and pocket squares are all medium with consistent spacing against one another (right). The rose pink tie matches the pocket square and keeps the coordination natural. Focus remains on the suit.

The scaling and spacing of the patterns here are tighter (right). The coordination involves balancing between spacing and the scales of the patterns. None of the patterns overwhelm the other and looks very natural in coordination.





From examples on the previous page, using similar color hue whencoordinating three patterns makes the blend well-balanced and enhances the classiness. Its important that the overall combination does not look too trying.

For simplicity in mixing three patterns where all are different, it is always good to play around with different scales between the patterns when one of them is smaller scaled or spaced.

A play of pattern scales between the suit, shirt and tie where the large blue check pattern breaks the visual discord of the small stripes and medium woven patterns. This is also a good illustration of dull + vivid + achromatic color.




3.4 Mixing 3 Different Pattern where 2 Are Similar:

The concept of balancing between the patterns continues to hold true for this combination. We should segregate the two similar patterns in terms of their scale and space while having the third pattern match with the two similar patterns.

For an easy start, it is advisable to focus the third pattern on the tie. This makes coordination a lot easier and avoids any possible clashes between the patterns on other different apparel.

The use of complementary and achromatic hues between the suit, dress shirt, and tie enhances the sartorial effect for this coordination. Remember that the proper use of color coordination is important here as well because of the many patterns used.

Without blending colors, pattern combination will become confusing especially when it involves similar patterns of different sizes.

(Left) The medium check on the shirt harmonizes with the larger window pane check on the suit. The polka-dot tie accents the whole combination as the small dots blend easily to both check patterns.




3.4 Mixing 3 Different Pattern where 2 Are Similar:

For the uninitiated, a safe way to mix and match different patterns is to use similar hue coordination, same hue coordination, or achromatic hue coordination between apparels.

Only when the experience picks up further in matching mens fashion clothing, would we recommend trying out the other types of color coordination with contrasting and/or complementary hues.

Overall, the concept for three patterns coordination is always use one large scale pattern to balance out the other two similar patterns.

This is the reason why we can easily use ties with large scales or patterns or motifs to off-set the similar but different scaled patterns on the suit and dress shirt.

(Above left) The medium stripe on the suit harmonizes with the medium checks on the cleric shirt and accented by the broad striped tie. The deep blue of the suit, graph checks and stripes on the tie pulls the look together

(Above right) Same hues on the suit, shirt and foulard pattern on the tie makes this an elegant 3-pattern mix




3.5 Mixing 3 Similar Patterns:

When we coordinate three similar patterns, we need to identify and start with the first pattern. This is usually an inner outfit, like a shirt. The second and third patterns would be the outer clothing and apparel accent, for example the suit is the second pattern and the tie/pocket square is the third pattern.

The general rule is that the first pattern is small in scale which will increase as we graduate to the second and third similar pattern.

(Left) The classic play of scale starting with the smallest stripes on the shirt to the broad stripes on the vivid blue tie. The pocket square is made from the shirt fabric and adds a whimsical touch to the ensemble.

(Right) Interesting variation of pattern graduation; the subtle stripes on the suit is the first pattern before graduating to the shirt and tie respectively.




3.5 Mixing 3 Similar Patterns:

The examples on the previous page illustrated how 3 similar stripes can be put together with a play in scales.

Comparatively, putting three checks together is of a much greater task than stripes even though the theory applies. Examples like tattersall checks and plaids are patterns that are closely knitted compared to stripes. The tension effect toward the eye is a lot stronger than stripes.

Notice that the transition between the patterns can become intense with three check patterns (see below)?

The possible discord of the small graph check (tie) against the Windsor check suit is broken by the large plaid pattern on the shirt. The difference in scale helps break up the intensity.

If it was a small check pattern shirt, the vibration between the three similar patterns would definitely disrupt and overwork the viewer's eyes.




3.6 Mixing 4 Patterns:

Other than scale and color, the important thing to note when moving up the number of patterns (and the sartorial scale) is the art of subtlety.

Below, the pencil stripes on the suit are balanced by the fine stripes on the shirt as well as the dotted tie and pocket square.

The intensity of widely spaced stripes on the aggressive suit below is broken by the fine stripes on the shirt. The medium print on the tie and pocket square puts the finishing touch.

Youll notice that each item is understated by itself. Only with clever coordination do we have an ensemble that sparkle visually and brings instant appeal to the wearer. With practice, youll master the basic rules of pattern and color coordination. That means you can graduate to 5 or even 6 pattern coordination with sartorial ease.

Detail: Similar vivid hues and dotted patterns on the tie and pocket square adds a quirky accent to the outfit

Detail: The choice of same hues for the tie and pocket square matches the stripes on the suit this brings a soothing appeal visually.



4.0 Dress Shoe Coordination

Black and brown shoes are perennial colors in mens shoe So how do we coordinate them with our outfit? Before moving on, take a look at the various styles of mens shoes available here.

Below is a quick summary of mens shoe coordination:1)The darker the color, the more formal the look. So black shoe ismore formal than brown shoes2)The shine of a shoe denotes the degree of dressiness. So the shinier it is, the more appropriate it is for dressy occasion

3)The more fanciful the detail the less dressy the shoe.

(left) With similar design, the more casual monks-strap is on the left

Increasing dressiness (left to right), from the heavy broguingon the wing-tip to the simpler cap-toe oxford and finally to the plain oxford


http://www.mens-fashion-tips.com/mens-dress-shoes-styles.html


4.0 Dress Shoe Coordination

4) Dark brown shoes go with a wide range of color for pants/suits and this includes navy. Compared to black, dark antique brown tend to bring out the color of the suit better.

Above: ..top-quality brown leather shoes invest all fabrics with an intangible richness Alan Flusser



5.0 Hot Accessories for that Finishing TouchWith the right accessories, youll look more polished. Herere some suggestions:

Right timepieceInvest in a high-quality watch. It looks as right dressed down with jeans as it does with your best suit for work.

Slim tie ruleWhile skinny ties are in, buy one that measures about three inches at its widest point. Itll be narrower than traditional ties, but broad enough for you to be taken seriously at work. Tie one on for that fashionable and sophisticated look.



5.0 Hot Accessories for that Finishing Touch

Pocket squareIt creates instant dash to an otherwise bland-looking suit and adds polish. Experiment with different ways to fold the pocket square and create your own distinctive flair.

Cuff linksCuff links dresses the hand and brings a business-like formality to your dressing. Like the right watch, it gives an understated distinction to the well-dressed man.

TV Fold Puff Fold 4 Point Fold



5.0 Hot Accessories for that Finishing Touch

Matching socksWhen choosing socks, the basic rule of color and pattern coordination applies. Im with most color except white, unless youre impersonating Michael Jackson.

On the safe side, match the sock to the suit. So navy socks with a navy suit and black shoes. With light colored suit, Id go for socks darker than the suit.

Brown shoesWhile the ubiquitous black shoe goes with everything, brown dress shoes move the style factor up a notch. From experience, they gobest with gray, khaki, or navy. It is easier to coordinate a dark brown shoe than light brown ones.

Detail: the degree of dressiness decreases from left to right as the pattern becomes bolder and the color becomes brighter and lighter



6.0 Suits Details to Note

I received many questions asking about suits details such as color, fabric, single- or double-breasted etc. Heres a simple table showing what you should take note of when selecting a work suit.

Lapel Peaked or notched

Buttons Single- or double-breasted with horn buttons

Pocket Flap or welt pockets

Vents Side, center or no vents

Sleeve Preferably with working buttons in horn

Trouser Cuffs and pleats as desired

Color Gray, black, blue, brown

Pattern Glen check, stripe, hounds tooth, fil-a-fil, plaid, herringbone

Material Wool-mix, wool, lambs wool, flannel, tropical, gabardine, cashmere, mohair, vicuna


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