Fabric Quality Handbook

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    FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK

    REV 6.02

    24/11/2006

    TEMA GROUP

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    2.USE OF THE HANDBOOK

    Fabric Quality Handbook will be used within Tema Group. Fabric purchasing will be evaluatedunder the framework of laboratory and fabric delivery and control procedures.

    While fabric is ordered to suppliers, the tests that are required for particular a product orfabric depicted in Table 1 and 2 will be identified.

    Even if the tests in Table 1 and Table 2 were not required from suppliers while order wasbeing placed, it is under the suppliers responsibility to deliver products having the tolerance limitsdepicted in Tables 3, 4 and 5.

    The tests that will be required from the laboratory after the ordered fabric has arrived atwarehouse will be defined considering Table 1 and Table 2.

    Laboratory findings will be assessed by Product Responsible considering Table 3, Table 4 and

    Table 5 You can refer to the last chapter of the handbook for ecological test standards.

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    1. FOREWORD .................................................................................. 2

    2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK .................................................................. 3

    3. FASTNESS TESTS .......................................................................... 5

    3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08 ................................................................................................................... 63.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14....................................................................................................... 73.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09.................................................................. 83.4. CROSS STAINING HT12 .....................................................................................................................104. PHYSICAL TESTS ..........................................................................11

    4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20..................................................12

    4.2. ELASTICITY FT07.................................................................................................................................134.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03........................................................................................................................15

    4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11.....................................................................................................17

    4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18 ..................................................................................................................19

    4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19...........................................................................................................................205. TABLES...................................................................................... 22

    5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE ......................235.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE......................255.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)................................................265.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4)...............................................275.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4)...............................................285.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4)...............................................295.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2) ........................30

    5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2).........................31

    5.9. TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4)....................325.10. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)...................33

    5.11. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (3/4) ...................345.12. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)...................35

    5.13. TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE QUANTITIES...366. ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS........................................................... 38

    6.1. SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS .......................................397. ECOLOGICAL TESTS.......................................................................40

    7.1. ECOLOGICAL TESTS .............................................................................................................................417.2. ECOLOGICAL TEST STANDARDS ...................................................................................................42

    7.3. ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES ................................................................................................447.4. TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION ....49

    7.5. CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES.........................................................................................................507.6. TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS ...............................51

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    3.FASTNESS TESTS

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    3.1.PRINT DURABILITY HT08

    NAMEOF TEST

    PRINT DURABILITY

    CODE HT-08

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 9

    3.1.1.PURPOSE

    This test is done for the purpose of determining colour change, wear and stain made by othercolours that might occur after wash and use of the products, for which production printed fabric isused or which are piece-printed.

    3.1.2.MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED

    Front loaded washing machineGrey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weightColourmatic detergentSoftenerTumble Drier

    3.1.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    For this test finished sewn products are usedWeight of the finished product is increased to 2 kg by adding white polyester fabrics each

    50g weigth. Wash temperature is set to 50C. 50 g of colourmatic detergent and 50 g of softener is

    added to the compartments of the front loaded washing machine. The washing machine is run atshort wash-program.The washing cycle is repeated two more times. There is no need for drying between washing

    cycles. Following the last washing cycle sample is hung to dry. It can also be dried by reversing it sothat printing direction faces inward.

    3.1.4.EVALUATION

    Evaluation process will include assessment of change of printing at folding and sews, greasingof the base fabric, greasing of print colours and general appearance of print, using grey scale (ISO105 A02-ISO 105 A03).

    3.1.5.

    REPORTINGThe findings about the print based on the above identified 4 criteria and the pass/fail ratings

    appearing in the quality handbook will be individually noted.

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    3.2.POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14

    NAMEOF TEST

    POST-WASHAPPEARANCE

    CODE FT- 14

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 10

    3.2.1.PURPOSE

    This test is done for the purpose of determining post-wash colour change and staining of theproduct, which is washed in domestic washing machines.

    3.2.2.MATERIALS TO BE USED

    Domestic washing machine

    Tumble DrierGrey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight

    3.2.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    A- If the sample is a sewn product, it will be weighted and completed up to 2 kg with 100%white Polyester fabrics, weights in 50g. The product is washed and dried according to the washinginstructions on its label. Before washing cycle is started, pieces will be cut out from the product inorder to make a later comparison if the product contains contrast colours.

    B - If the sample is a fabric, a piece of 30x30 cm is taken on which contract colours appearand four edges are over locked. Another piece is taken having the same contrast colours for control

    purposes. The sample is weighted and completed to 2 kg with 100% polyester fabric. At TGKKEK anddepending on fabric type, it is washed and dried at a short program with no pre-wash cycle at thetemperature specified at FT01.

    50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used for washing,If the fabric weight is over 2 kg, test is done without uploading adding fabrics.

    3.2.4.EVALUATION

    Evaluation is done at a dark room under D65 daylight on grey scales Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03 ) . Findings are compared with the values at TGKKEK. If a sewn product has beentested, the sample is delivered to the unit concerned inch order to assess the other appearances onthe product as a result of colour change and staining tests, if required.

    3.2.5.REPORTING

    Findings obtained from the tested samples are put down in the test results report. The reportcontains the data that relate to colour change and staining only. Other evaluations (sew appearance,shrinkage and sagging) must be done by relevant units.

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    3.3.COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09

    NAMEOF TEST

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOWET ALKALI LIGHT

    CODE HT-09

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 5

    3.3.1.PURPOSE

    This test is done in order to assess the change that will likely occur on fabric within it isexposed to light after detergent washing.

    3.3.2.MATERIALS USED

    ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate

    Polyethylene foil not containing BHTAir cooled Xenon Arc Lamp (complying to ISO 105 B02)Colour change grey scale ( ISO 105 A02)Blue wool (Blue wool scales of number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5)

    3.3.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    The sample fabric to be tested will have the minimum size 45 mm x 10 mm.Preparation of solution: 4g/lt ECE (B) + 1 g/lt Sodium Perborate will be dissolved in 1 lt water

    at 50C (+ - 2C).The sample is soaked into the prepared solution as it was explained in related sample soak

    section in ISO 105 B07 and the sample is wrapped with special polyethylene not containing BHT in

    single layer. The polyethylene layer at the back of the sample will overlap like a cover. This part willbe taped airtight.

    Polyethylene

    SampleFabric

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    The sample is inserted in a carton containing no optics and the protruding ends ofpolyethylene are taped on the back of the box.

    It is tested for 5 hours for woven fabrics and 3 hours for knitted fabrics at light fastnesstester as per ISO 105 B02.

    Samples are removed from polyethylene. When removed the samples must be wet. If samplesget dry during test, the test should be repeated.

    Samples are left for drying in a dark room.

    3.3.4.EVALUATION

    Dried samples are evaluated on grey scale ( ISO 105 A02) under D65 light in light cabin.

    3.3.5.REPORTING

    Test findings will be put down on the test results form.

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    3.4.CROSS STAINING HT12

    NAME OFTEST

    CROSS STAINING

    CODE HT-12

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 13

    3.4.1 PURPOSE

    This test is done for the purpose of determining colour staining of contrast colours within thesame product, after washing and keeping wet.

    3.4.2 MATERIALS TO BE USED

    Apparatus of CF to Washing; Gyrowash

    Perspirometer, Acrylic Plates,Stove,Light Cabinet,Magnetic Mixer,Balance,ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate,Gray Scale of Staining (ISO 105 A03).

    3.4.3 CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    Two sets of fabric samples are cut from light coloured fabric as in the measure of 40x110 mm

    and dark coloured fabric as 40x100 mm (Due to the net visibility of staining of dark colours on thelight coloured fabric, the dark coloured fabrics are cut smaller than the light coloured fabrics).Light and dark coloured fabric samples are sewn from the short edges with overlock stitching whilstthe front faces of samples are being contacted. CF to washing test (ISO 105 C06) is performed atone of the prepared sample according to composition of the dark coloured fabrics washingtemperature as stated at TGKKEK. ISO 105 E01 washing test is performed to the other testsample.

    In this method; main differences from the standards is that using contrast coloured fabricinstead of using adjacent multifibre fabric. Conducts of the tests, conditions and all otherprocesses are exactly similar to the related standards. (See ISO 105 C06:1994, ISO 105 E01:1994)

    3.4.4 EVALUATION

    Dried samples (at the appropriate conditions) are evaluated under the D65 daylight in thelight box with using gray scale of staining (ISO 105 A03). At the evaluation, it is essential of thatthe staining of the light coloured fabric.

    3.4.5 REPORTING

    Findings obtained from the tested samples are put down in the test results report.

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    4.PHYSICAL TESTS

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    4.1.DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20

    NAMEOF TEST

    DIMENSIONAL CHANGETEST/ (FABRIC SAGGING)

    CODE FT-20

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 11

    4.1.1.PURPOSE

    This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of knitted fabrics which influenced byvarious physical effects.

    4.1.2.EQUIPMENT USED

    Metal rulerPen, suitable for writing on fabricsMechanism for hanging fabricsMarker penScissors

    4.1.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    Test sample is taken at least 2.5 meters from the beginning of fabric rolls.By using template, fabric sample is marked with a marker pen at the size of 50 x 50 cm.Fabric is cut on the marked line with a tolerance of + 5 cm.Test sample is hung equally folded onto a stretched rope in the longitudinal direction of knit.

    Test sample is kept hung for 24 hours (in emergency it must be kept at least for 4 hours).Test sample is smoothly laid on the table, after waiting time.It is measured in length and width from line to line.% of the fabric sagging is calculated with the below formula.

    % Sagging = (Original measure Post-washing Measure) x 100 / Original measure

    The value thus found will be put down on the test results form as % of sagging in width andlength.

    4.1.4.EVALUATION

    The findings will be compared with the target value by using the table depending whether thetested fabric is knitted or woven.

    4.1.5.REPORTING

    Findings will be put down on test results form.

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    4.2.ELASTICITY FT07

    NAMEOF TEST

    ELASTICITY

    CODE FT-07

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 2

    4.2.1.PURPOSE

    This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of woven fabric containing elasticmaterial towards the direction of the elastic material.

    4.2.2.EQUIPMENT USED

    Tensile Strength Tester (with the below components)

    Load cell with 0-600 N measuring range.Sample holding jaws, suitable for elastic fabric at the width 5 cm.Software capable to display test period and speed.Marking penScissors

    4.2.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    Sample Preparation:If the sample fabric Warp Elastic or Weft Elastic fabric, 3 samples are prepared in

    elastic direction. If the fabric is elastic in both directions, totally 6 samples are prepared, 3 inwarp and 3 in weft.

    If possible samples must be taken diagonally so as to avoid containing the same weft and/orwarp yarns.

    Samples must be taken at least 10% of the fabric width inward.Conditioning: The fabric to be tested must be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a

    temperature of 20 2C and at a humidity of 65% 4.Procedure: 3 samples are taken from each fabric for test (if both weft and warp of the fabric

    are elastic, 6 samples will taken e.g. 3 in weft direction and 3 in ward direction). Samples must havea size of 33 cm x 6 cm each. The long edge must be parallel to the elastic yarn.

    Sample must be reduced to a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns either by hand or atweezers. During this operation care must be exercised to draw out equal number of yarns fromboth sides.

    Then jaws will be mounted and the program will be run. Jaw surface is 100 mm x 25 mm.Sample is placed on jaws wit hour pre-stretching it. Sample will be stretched for 3 times from

    0 to 30 N at a speed of 300 mm/min. At the 3rdstretching fabrics elongation under a load of 30Nwill be calculated. Other two samples will be placed on jaws and tested in similar way.

    4.2.4.EVALUATION

    For fabrics having elastic material in a single direction, elongation after the 3rdstretchingmust be higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%).

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    4.3.SPIRALITY TEST FT03

    NAME OFTEST

    SPIRALITY TEST

    CODE FT-03

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 6

    4.3.1.PURPOSE

    Determination of deformation in the fabric that occurs after washing in particular.

    4.3.2.EQUIPMENT USED

    Front loaded washing machine.Metal ruler.

    Marking template and ruler.

    4.3.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    The sample fabric to be tested will be conditioned for 4 hours before the test. Test samplewill not be taken from either end of roll. Sample must be taken at 2.5 meters inward at least.

    Fabric is folded in the middle with folded edges aligned. Anti-Shrinkage template is placed onthe fabric at a distance from the edge of the fabric of at least 10% of its width. Figures on thetemplate are marked. Weft and warp directions are identified. A line will be drawn at the outeredge of the template using a permanent ink pen. Edges will be cut without any round corner to obtaina square at size 50x50 cm.

    3 edges of the fabric are over locked. The bottom edge is left open and then over locked. Lot

    number, drying method and wash temperature are written on the right bottom corner of the fabric.Sample is weighted. Its weight is increased to 2 kg by 50 g standard Polyester fabrics.For washing temperature and drying process, dimensional change test values that are

    appropriate for this fabric will be used. For washing 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener are used.When washing cycle is complete, the sample is dried for 70 minutes (10 minutes cooling

    included) for cellulose fabric (cotton, viscose and their blends) and for 45 minutes (10 minutescooling included) for synthetic fabric (polyester, nylon and their blends), by completing to 2 kg withPolyester fabric in Tumbler drier. After dry at Tumbler drier, test sample is conditioned for atleast 4 hours and measured using the following formula.

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    4.3.4.EVALUATION

    The value obtained by using the table depending whether the fabric is woven or knitted iscompared with target value.

    4.3.5.REPORTING

    The values obtained are put down in the test results report.

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    4.4.PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11

    NAMEOF TEST

    PERMANENT ELONGATION

    CODE FT-11

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 3

    4.4.1.PURPOSE

    This test is done in order to measure permanent elongations of elastic woven fabric underconstant loads.

    Before this test, fabric must have undergone elasticity test because the elasticity valuefound at that must be used.

    Note: If 80% of elasticity of fabric is more than 35%, elongation value to be used at

    permanent elongation test will be limited to 35%. A fabric which found with 45% elasticity will beused with the value of 35 %elasticity for this test (%45*%80=%36 > %35).

    Permanent elongation is the elongation in percentage of woven fabric containing elasticmaterial, which are held at a certain elongation for a certain time and then released.

    4.4.2.EQUIPMENT USED

    Static elongation testerScissorsRulerTimer

    4.4.3.

    CONDUCT OF TESTImportant Note:In order to do permanent elongation test elasticity test must have been done and elasticity

    value is already known.3 samples will be prepared for each fabric containing elastic material to be tested. If the

    fabric to be tested contains elastic material both at warp and weft, 1 sample will be prepared onboth directions.

    New samples must be prepared for this test. Samples prepared for elasticity test must not beused.

    Conditioning:Fabrics will be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a temperature of 200 C 20 C and a

    humidity of %65 %4.Three samples will be taken from the fabric, which do not contain the same weft and warp

    yarns at the size 55 cm x 6 cm with long edge parallel to the elastic yarn. Sample must be reducedto a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns from both sides at equal quantity.

    80% of the elasticity is calculated by the following formula:80% elongation = E% x 0.80 x L / 100L = Distance between marks at permanent elongation (50 cm).The bottom jaw of static tester is switched to 0 and locked.Sample is attached to the tester and both jaws are closed.

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    As previously calculated, fabric is elongated by pulling downwards until it reaches at theelongation value of 80%. After 30 minutes fabric is released and left in a flat place.After 60 minutes, distance between marked points is measured and permanent elongation is

    calculated by the following formula:

    % permanent elongation = (L2-L) x 100 / LL2 = The ultimate value measured between marked pointsL = Initial value measured between marked points

    4.4.4.EVALUATION

    Findings are evaluated using relevant tables.

    4.4.5.REPORTING

    Findings will be put down in the test results form together with the pass/fail remark includingdirection of test (weft-warp).

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    4.5.TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18

    NAMEOF TEST

    TRIPLE WASH TEST

    CODE FT-18

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 7

    4.5.1.PURPOSE

    This test is done for the purpose of determining the post-wash deterioration at quality andappearance of coated and adhesive products that are washed at domestic type washing machines.

    4.5.2.MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT TO BE USED

    Domestic type washing machine

    Thumble drier (unless otherwise mentioned in washing instructions)White cotton fabric of 110-130 g/m2.White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight

    4.5.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    Sample is weighted if it is a sewn finished product. Its weight is increased up to 2 kg with100% white polyester fabrics weight in 50g5g. If the test is done on fabric, a sample of 30x30 willbe prepared. Its weight is increased up to 2 kg with 100% white polyester fabrics weight in 50g5g.If the sample is more than 2 kg there is no need to increase the weight.

    If a coated fabric is tested, it will be sewn on a white cotton fabric and tested with the

    coated piece of 30x30 cm faces inward. Weight of the white cotton fabric to be used will be 110 to130 g/m2.

    If an adhesive fabric is to be tested, test will be done before folding.Product will be washed at a temperature 20C higher than appearing in the instructions.

    Washing and drying cycle is repeated for 3 times. If, before the second or the third washing cycleyou observe any problem like stripping of coats on fabric or detached adhesives, test will beinterrupted and it will be reported after how many tests deformation has occurred.

    For washing cycle 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used.Drying is done according to the washing instructions.

    4.5.4.EVALUATION

    The tested and the non-tested fabric are physically examined. During this examination, it iscontrolled if coating quality is deteriorated, adhesives are detached or other physical defects

    occurred.Tolerance for deterioration on coated fabric is maximum 3 deteriorated points. In case of

    deterioration on more than 3 points or deterioration larger than 1 mm2, test wills bee deemed failed.For the Plush fabrics visual assessment is done by authorized people.

    4.5.5.REPORTING

    Physical examination results of the tested fabrics will be put down in the test results form.

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    4.6.BAGGING TEST FT19

    NAMEOF TEST

    BAGGING

    CODE FT-19

    REFERENCE STANDARDTEMA METHOD 11

    4.6.1.PURPOSE

    This standard pertains determination of the strength of woven fabric again bagging orelongation because of wearing.

    4.6.2.EQUIPMENT TO BE USED

    - Special holders as in Figure 1

    - Ruler with Millimeter scale- Weights of 900 grams, 1800 grams, 2250 grams- A hanger or a hanger board having wedges for keeping samples in vertical position (figure

    attached).

    4.6.3.CONDUCT OF THE TEST

    Amount of fabric elongation (elongation potential) is the amount, which is measured afterdisposing the fabric sample to a tensile strength for a specified time according to the m2 weight offabric.

    Three samples of 6 cm x 38 cm cut out at warp direction and three samples of 6 cm x 38 cmcut out at weft direction are prepared for test purposes. Care must be exercised to take the test

    samples from different parts to avoid using the same warp or weft yarn groups. The cut out fabricsof 6 cm will be reduced to 5 cm by removing yarn at edges. Yarn removal must be done on both sidesof the fabric until at least one full length yarn is removed.

    Test samples must be conditioned for 4 hours.A distance of 25 cm from the edges is marked on the sample of 5 cm x 38 cm (figure 1).

    Special holders are attached on both ends of the test sample. Then sample is hung vertically. Thebottom edge will be attached the weights that will be selected according to fabric weight as seen inChart 1.

    CHART 1- The weights that will be selected according to fabric m2 weight

    m2 weight of fabric Weight applied(Gram)

    Up to 130 grams 900130-170 grams 1800

    More than 170 grams 2250

    After exposing to load for thirty minutes, the amount of elongation under load (sample isunder load) will be calculated by the following formula:

    LY=Elongation under loadL= Initial Length (25 cm)% Elongation under load = (LY - L)*100/L

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    The special holder will then be removed from the bottom edge and permanent elongation afterfive minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours with reference to previously marked 25 cm length will be calculatedby the following formula:

    LK= Permanent Elongation% Permanent Elongation = (LK- L)*100/L

    4.6.4.EVALUATION

    The value found after 2 hours will be considered the basic finding. Values found afterexposing to load for 30 minutes, 5 minutes and 1 hour will be used as reference only.

    4.6.5.REPORTING

    The test finding for the fabric will be compared with the relevant tables and pass/failassessment will be made.

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    5.TABLES

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    5.1.TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    WAS

    HING

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    WA

    TER

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    PERSPIRATION

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    RUBBING

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    DRYCLEANING

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    LIG

    HT

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    LIGHTPERSPIRATION

    FAST

    NESS

    PRINTDU

    RABILITY

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    WETALKALILIGHT

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    CHLORINATEDWATER

    COLOURFA

    STNESSTO

    SEAW

    ATER

    CROSSSTAINING

    DIMENSIONAL

    STABILITYT

    OWASHING

    WEI

    GHT

    SPIRALITY

    PILL

    ING

    TENSILESTRENGTH

    ELAST

    ICITY

    SEAMS

    LIPPAGE

    ABRASSION

    PILELOSS

    ONVELVET

    HT01

    HT02

    HT03

    HT04

    HT05

    HT06

    HT07

    HT08

    HT09

    HT10

    HT11

    HT12

    FT01

    FT02

    FT03

    FT04

    FT06

    FT07

    FT08

    FT09

    FT10

    NAMESOFTESTS

    ISO105C06

    ISO105E01

    ISO105E04

    ISO105X12

    ISO105D01

    ISO105B02

    ISO105B07

    TEMAMETHOD9

    TEMAMETHOD5

    ISO105E03

    ISO105E02

    TEMAMETHOD

    13

    ISO3759

    ISO6330

    ISO3801

    TEMAMETHOD6

    ISO12945-1

    ISO13934-2

    TEMAMETHOD2

    ISO13936-1

    ISO12947-2

    AATCC93

    1 SHIRTS AND BLOUSES A A A A D A A C B R A B F A A H

    2 SKIRTS AND DRESSES A A A A D A A C B R A B F A A H

    3TROUSERS SHORTS

    JOGGING SUITS A A A A D A A C B R A B A F A G A A H

    4 PRODUCTS MADE OF DENIM FABRIC A A A A A C R A B A F A G A A

    5OUTER WEAR CATEGORY A

    (SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)A A A A D A C B R A B F A A A H

    6OUTER WEAR CATEGORY B

    (SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)A A A A D A C B R A B F A A A H

    7OUTER WEAR CATEGORY C

    (SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)A A A A D A C B R A B F A A A H

    8OUTER WEAR CATEGORY D

    (SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)A A A A A C B R A B A A

    9 SWIMWEAR A A A A A C B A A R A B A A A

    10 TREKKING WEAR A A A A A A C B R A B A F A A A

    11 LININGS A A A A D R A B F A A

    12POCKET MATERIAL

    (SEE BELOW EXPLANATION)A A A A R A B A A A

    13 BONDED FABRICS AA

    BOTHSides

    ABOTHSides

    ABOTHSides

    DA

    OUTERSide

    C B R A B AA

    BothSides

    A A A H

    14ALL PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES,

    WITH ACCESSORIES(GOLD SEAL SAMPLES)

    PRODUCTTYPE

    15HAND TOWELS, BATH TOWELS AND

    BEACH TOWELSA A A A A A A R A A

    Fastness tests are not required for white and natural colour fabric qualities.

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    5.1.1.EXPLANATIONS OF TABLE 1

    Product Categories of Outer Wear;Category A: Products do not required Water Repelling and Water Proof, Felt Coats, Casual CoatsCategory B: Products do not required Water Proof but required Water Repelling : Coating can be re

    the fabric in this category, even that Water Proof test is not required,Category C: Products required both Water Repelling and Water Proof, Coats,Category D: Raincoats; Fabrics required for both Water Proof at 1500 mm level and Water Repelling a

    test method.

    CODE REMARKSA Each lot is tested,

    B Each colour is tested,

    C Only printed (in meter or in part) products and fabrics are tested,

    D Fabrics to be dry cleaned as per label instructions will be tested,

    E Tested if product has a contrast colour,

    F Blended and brushed fabrics are tested. Velvets are not tested,

    G Tested if it contains elastic yarn,

    H Only velvets are tested. Testing a single colour will be sufficient,

    J Tested if Easy care or Non-iron treatment is made,

    M It is required for Bonded and Coated fabrics,

    N It is required for the fabrics contain Regenerated Fibres,

    P It is required when Oil repelling is applied.

    R It is required for garments containing contrast colours

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    5.2.TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE

    TESTS

    DIMENSIONAL

    STAB

    ILITYTO

    WA

    SHING

    WEIGHT

    SPIRALIT

    Y

    PILLING

    BURSTIN

    GSTRENGTH

    PIL

    ELOSS

    DRYC

    LEANING

    SHR

    INKAGE

    POST-WASH

    APPE

    ARANCE

    FABRIC

    SAGGING

    COLOURF

    ASTNESSTO

    WA

    SHING

    COLOURF

    ASTNESSTO

    W

    ATER

    COLOURF

    ASTNESSTO

    PERSP

    IRATION

    COLOURF

    ASTNESSTO

    RU

    BBING

    COLOURF

    ASTNESSTO

    DRYC

    LEANING

    FT01 FT02 FT03 FT04 FT05 FT10 FT12 FT14 FT20 HT01 HT02 HT03 HT04 HT05

    No FABRIC TYPES

    ISO6330

    ISO3759

    ISO3801

    ISO6330

    ISO12945-1

    ISO13938-2

    AATCC93

    TEMAMETHOD8

    TEMAMETHOD10

    TEMAMETHOD11

    ISO105C06

    ISO105E01

    ISO105E04

    ISO105X12

    ISO105D01

    1 100% COTTON FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X

    2COTTON POLYESTER OR COTTON ACRYLIC

    FABRICS (MELANJ)X X X X X X

    3 COTTON LYCRA BLEND FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X

    4 VISCOSE LYCRA BLEND FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X

    5 POLYESTER BLEND FABRICS (PLAIN DYE) X X X X X X X X X X

    6 ACRYLIC BLEND FABRICS (PLAIN DYE) X X X X X X X X X X

    7 WOOL BLEND FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X

    8 100% POLYESTER POLARS X X X X X X X X X X

    9 VELVET AND TOWEL FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X X

    10 PRINTED FABRICS (REACTIVE, PIGMENT) X X X X X X X X X X

    11WARP KNITTED FABRICS

    (RACHEL MESH FABRICS)X X X X X X X X X X X

    12 SWIM-WEAR FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X

    13 FUR FABRICS X X X X X X X X X X X X

    14 BONDED FABRICS X X XX

    Bothsides

    X X XX

    Done 3times

    XX

    Bothsides

    XBothsides

    XBothsides

    XBothsides

    XDone time

    15ALL PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES, WITHACCESSORIES (GOLD SEAL SAMPLES)

    X

    16 FLAT KNITTING PRODUCTS X X X X

    Colour fastness to dry cleaning and dimensional stability to dry cleaning tests are required for all fabrcleaning available. It is required for garments containing contrast colours.

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    5.3.TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOWASHING

    COLOURFASTNESS TO

    WATER

    COLOURFASTNESS TOPERSPIRATION

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO RUBBING (DRY

    ONLY)

    COLOURFASTNESS TO

    LIGHT

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOLIGHT AND

    PERSPIRATION(SEE BELOW)

    HT01 HT02 HT03 HT04 HT06 HT07

    TEST PERFCODE

    FABRIC BLENDS

    ISO 105 C06 ISO 105 E01 ISO 105 E04 ISO 105 X12 ISO 105 B02 ISO 105 B07

    TRH01 100% COTTON500C B2SS 4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 C 3/4

    TRH02POLYESTER, NYLON AND

    BLENDS400C A2SS 4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 C 3/4

    TRH03LINEN, VISCOSE, ACETATE AND

    BLENDS400C A2SS 4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 C 3/4

    TRH04 WOOL AND BLENDS400C A2SS3/4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 Not Required

    S STAINING C CHANGE Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subj While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be c For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for pas the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line at 40 C disregarding cotton nylon fabrics. Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric ordeindicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be unde For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38 For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness

    level below. Colour fastness to rubbing test must be done outer (front) side of coated and printed woven fabrics, apadone inner (back) side of fabrics (regarding to usage of fabric). Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.

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    5.4.TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4)

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOCHLORINATED WATER

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOSEA WATER

    COLOUR FASTNESS TODRY CLEANING

    PRINT DURABILITY

    HT10 HT11 HT05 HT08

    TESTPERFCODE

    FABRIC BLEND

    ISO 105 E03 ISO 105 E02 ISO 105 - DO1 TEMA METHOD 9

    TRH01 COTTON AND BLENDS50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH02 POLYESTER, NYLON AND BLENDS50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH03 LINEN , VISCOSE , ACETATE AND BLENDS50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH04 WOOL AND BLENDS N/A N/A C 4 C 4

    S STAINING C CHANGE Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subj While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be c For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for pas the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend racotton nylon blend fabrics. For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastnesslevel below.

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    5.5.TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4)

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO WASHING

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO WATER

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOPERSPIRATION

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO RUBBING(DRY ONLY)

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO LIGHT

    COLOUR FASLIGHT AND PE

    (SEE BE

    HT01 HT02 HT03 HT04 HT06 HT

    TESTPERFCODE

    FABRIC BLEND

    ISO 105 C06 ISO 105 E01 ISO 105 E04 ISO 105 X12 ISO 105 B02 ISO 10

    TRH05ACRYLIC AND BLENDS

    SILK AND BLENDS400C A2SS 4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 C 3

    TRH06 PIGMENT PRINTS500C B2SS 4, C 4

    S 4, C 4 S 4, C 4 S 4 C 4 C 3

    TRH07 PIGMENT DYES500C C2SS 4, C 4

    (POST-WASH)

    S 4, C 4(POST-WASH)

    S 4, C 4(POST-WASH)

    S 4(POST-WASH)

    C 4(POST-WASH)

    C 3

    TRH08 INDIGO DENIM500C B2SS 3/4, C 4

    (POST-WASH)

    S 3/4, C 4(POST-WASH)

    S 3/4, C 4(POST-WASH)

    S 3/4(POST-WASH)

    C 4(POST-WASH)

    N/

    S STAINING C CHANGE Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to indus While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.

    For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester ble

    contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester an

    Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric ordeindicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be unde For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38

    For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water wi For all weaving fabrics, colour fastness to rubbing test must be done reverse side of fabric.

    Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.

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    5.6.TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4)

    COLOUR FASTNESS TOCHLORINATED WATER

    COLOUR FASTNESSTO SEA WATER

    COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRYCLEANING

    PRINT DURABILITY POST-

    HT10 HT11 HT05 HT08 TEST PERF

    CODEFABRIC BLEND

    ISO 105 E03 ISO 105 E02 ISO 105 - DO1 TEMA METHOD 9 TE

    TRH05ACRYLIC AND BLENDS

    SILK AND BLENDS50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH06 PIGMENT PRINTS50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH07 PIGMENT DYES50 mg/lt

    C 4S 4, C 4 C 4 C 4

    TRH08 INDIGO DENIM N/A N/A C 4 C 4

    S STAINING C CHANGE Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subj While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be c For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for pas the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend racotton nylon blend fabrics. For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastnesslevel below.

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    5.7.TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2)

    DIMENSIONALSTABILITY TO

    WASHINGTENSILE STRENGTH TEAR STRENGTH SEAM SLIPPAGE ABRASION

    FT01 FT06 FT15 FT08 FT09

    TEST PERFCODE

    FABRIC TYPE

    ISO 6330ISO 3759

    ISO 13934-1 ISO 13937-1 ISO 13936-1 ISO 12947-2

    Below 160 g/m2 12 Kg 700 g 6 mm 8 Kg 10.000 RPM

    161-250 g/ m2 15 Kg 900 g 6 mm 10 Kg 15.000 RPMTDFT01 100% COTTON

    Over 251 g/ m2

    600C 2A TDMAX WIDTH LENGTH

    3%20 Kg 1000 g 6 mm 12 Kg 20.000 RPM

    Width elastic 12 Kg 700 g 6 mm 8 Kg 10.000 RPM

    Length elastic 15 Kg 900 g 6 mm 10 Kg 15.000 RPMTDFT02

    COTTON AND COTTONBLEND ELASTIC

    FABRICSWidth-Length elastic

    500C 4A TDat elastic yarn

    directionMAX +3%, -5%

    at non-elastic yarndirectionMAX 3%

    20 Kg 1000 g 6 mm 12 Kg 20.000 RPM

    Below 160 g/ m2 12 Kg 700 g 6 mm 8 Kg 10.000 RPM

    161-250 g/ m2 15 Kg 900 g 6 mm 10 Kg 15.000 RPMTDFT03

    LINEN AND BLENDSREGENERATED

    CELLULOSE AND

    BLENDS Over 251 g/ m2

    500C 4A TDMAX WIDTH LENGTH

    5% 20 Kg 1000 g 6 mm 12 Kg 20.000 RPM

    Below 160 g/ m2 12 Kg 700 g 6 mm 8 Kg 10.000 RPM

    161-250 g/ m2 15 Kg 900 g 6 mm 10 Kg 15.000 RPMTDFT04100% SYNTHETIC AND

    BLENDS

    Over 251 g/ m2

    400C 5A TDMAX WIDTH LENGTH

    3%20 Kg 1000 g 6 mm 12 Kg 20.000 RPM

    Below 160 g/ m2 12 Kg 700 g 6 mm 8 Kg 10.000 RPM

    161-250 g/ m2 15 Kg 900 g 6 mm 10 Kg 15.000 RPMTDFT05ALL BLENDS

    CONTAINING WOOL

    Over 251 g/ m2

    400C 5A FDMAX WIDTH LENGTH

    3%20 Kg 1000 g 6 mm 12 Kg 20.000 RPM

    Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be Seam slippage value will be taken 5.5 kg for 6 mm for linen and linen blended fabrics below 160 g/m2in th Dimensional stability to washing values of linings must be examined considering the base fabric.

    Abrasion test is not required for velour and corduroy fabrics. In linen and linen blends fabrics, abrasion test level is required 10 000 RPM without considering the fabr Abrasion and Pilling tests are not required for the fabrics, which consist flament yarn in both warp and wsurface brushing process.

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    5.8.TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2)

    ELASTCTY SPIRALITY WEIGHT PILE LOSSPERMANENT

    ELONGATIONDRY CLEANING

    SHRINKAGEWATERREPELL

    WATPERMEA

    FT07 FT03 FT02 FT10 FT11 FT12 FT13 FTTEST PERF

    CODEFABRIC TYPE

    TEMA METHOD2

    TEMAMETHOD 6 ISO 3801 AATCC 93 TEMA METHOD 3 TEMA METHOD 8 ISO 4920 ISO

    Below 160 g/m2

    161-250 g/ m2TDFT01 100% COTTON

    Over 250 g/ m2

    N/A 3% 5% BY WEIGHT 16% N/AWIDTH, LENGTH

    3%4 1000

    Width elastic %20

    Length elastic %20TDFT02COTTON AND COTTON

    BLEND ELASTICFABRICS Width-Length

    elastic%15

    3% 5% BY WEIGHT 16% 4%WIDTH, LENGTH

    3%4 N/

    Below 160 g/ m2

    161-250 g/ m2TDFT03

    LINEN AND BLENDSREGENERATED

    CELLULOSE ANDBLENDS Over 250 g/ m2

    N/A 3% 5% BY WEIGHT 16% N/AWIDTH, LENGTH

    3%4 1000

    Below 160 g/ m2

    161-250 g/ m2TDFT04100% SYNTHETIC AND

    BLENDS

    Over 250 g/ m2

    N/A 3% 5% BY WEIGHT 16% N/AWIDTH, LENGTH

    3%4 1000

    Below 160 g/ m2

    161-250 g/ m2TDFT05ALL BLENDS

    CONTAINING WOOL

    Over 250 g/ m2

    N/A 3% 5% BY WEIGHT 16% N/AWIDTH, LENGTH

    3%4 N/

    Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be Water permeability must be 1500 mm for raincoats. At pile loss test on velvet, colour change must also be evaluated. Spirality test is not required for Basic and Panama weave.

    Permanent Elongation and Elasticity tests are not required for Shirts, Skirts and Blouses.

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    5.9.TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4)ISO 6330ISO 3759

    ISO 12945-2 ISO 6330 ISO 3801AATCC 93

    ACCELATOR

    DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TOWASHING

    PILLING SPIRALITY WEIGHT PILE LOSS TEST PERF

    CODEFABRIC TYPE

    FT01 FT04 FT03 FT02 FT10

    TOFT01 100% COTTON JERSEYS2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: %-6, LENGTH:%-67200 RPM

    44% 5 % N/A

    TOFT02100% VISCOSE AND BLENDS

    JERSEYS4A-500C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    34% 5 % N/A

    TOFT03 COTTON / POLYESTER JERSEYS2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    44%

    5 %N/A

    TOFT04SHORT STAPLE POLYESTER AND BLENDS

    JERSEYS2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    44% 5 % N/A

    TOFT05 FILAMENT POLYESTER JERSEYS2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    44% 5 % N/A

    TOFT06 ACRYLIC AND BLENDS JERSEYS5A-400C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    34% 5 % N/A

    TOFT07 JERSEYS CONTAINING WOOL400C ELDE YIKAMA FD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    44% 5 % N/A

    For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 50

    0

    C TD width: -6% length: -6% for kmaterial up to 5%. For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list. For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabricchosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric typ Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types underconditions. Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length. Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

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    5.10.TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)ISO 6330ISO 3759

    ISO 12945-2 ISO 6330 ISO 3801A

    DIMENSIONAL STABILITYTO WASHING PILLING SPIRALITY WEIGHT

    TESTPERF

    CODE

    FABRIC TYPE

    FT01 FT04 FT03 FT02

    TOFT08 100% COTTON INTERLOCK RIB AND MILANO2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-7%7200 RPM

    44% 5%

    TOFT09 100% VISCOSE AND BLENDS INTERLOCK RIB MILANO5A-500C TD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

    7200 RPM3

    4% 5%

    TOFT10 COTTON POLYESTER INTERLOCK RIB MILANO2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

    7200 RPM4

    4% 5%

    TOFT11 FILAMENT-NYLON PES INTERLOCK RIB MILANO2A-600C TD

    WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%7200 RPM

    44% 5%

    TOFT12 ACRYLIC AND BLENDS INTERLOCK RIB MILANO4A-400C TD

    WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-5%7200 RPM

    34% 5%

    TOFT13 INTERLOCK RIB MILANO CONTAINING WOOL400C HAND WASH, FD

    WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH :5%

    7200 RPM3

    4% 5%

    For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500C TD width: -6% length: -6% for k

    material up to 5%. For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list. For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabricchosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric typ Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types underconditions. Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length. Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

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    5.12.TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)ISO 6330ISO 3759

    ISO 12945-2 ISO 6330 ISO 3801AATCC 93

    ACCELATOR

    DIMENSIONAL STABILITYTO WASHING PILLING SPIRALITY WEIGHT PILE LOSS

    TEST PERFCODE

    FABRIC TYPE

    FT01 FT04 FT03 FT02 FT10

    TOFT23 100% POLYESTER POLAR

    2A-600C TDWIDTH:-5LENGTH:-5

    7200 RPM4

    4% 5% N/A

    TOFT24COTTON AND BLENDS TOWEL

    AND VELVETS

    2A-600C TDWIDTH :5LENGTH :5

    7200 RPM4

    4% 5% BY WEIGHT 4%

    TOFT25VISCOSE AND BLENDS TOWEL

    AND VELVETS

    4A-500C TDWIDTH:-5LENGTH:-5

    7200 RPM4

    4% 5% BY WEIGHT 4%

    TOFT26 FUR FABRICS

    4A-500C TDWIDTH:-5LENGTH:-5

    NOT APPLIED %4 %5 NOT APPLIED

    TOFT27WARP KNITTED FABRICS

    (RACHEL)

    4A-500C TDWIDTH:-5LENGTH:-5

    7200 RPM4

    %4 %5 NOT APPLIED

    TOFT28 FLAT KNITTED PRODUCTS N/A7200 RPM

    3(400C HAND WASH FD)

    N/A N/A N/A

    For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500C TD width: -6% length: -6% for kmaterial up to 5%. For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list. For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabricchosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric typ Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types underconditions. Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length. Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

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    5.13.TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE QUANTITIES

    5.13.1.

    Reference Standards of Physical & Performance Tests and Colour Fastness Tests and

    Required Sample Quantities

    REFERENCENAME

    STANDARD TEST NAME REQUIREDSAMPLE QUANTITIES

    COLOUR FASTNESS

    HT01 ISO 105 C06 CF TO WASHING If the sample is one colour, 4x10 cm.

    HT02 ISO 105 E01 CF TO WATER If the sample is one colour, 4x10 cm.

    HT03 ISO 105 E04 CF TO PERSPIRATION If the sample is one colour, two times 4x10cm.

    HT04 ISO 105 X12 CF TO RUBBING If the sample is one colour 30x30 cm

    HT05 ISO 105 D01 CF TO DRY CLEANING 15x15 cm

    HT06 ISO 105 B02 CF TO LIGHT If the sample is one colour, 5x5 cmHT07 ISO 105 B07 CF TO PERSPIRATION & LIGHT If the sample is one colour, 5x10 cm

    HT08 TEMA METHOD9 PRINT DURABILITY There is no standard measurement, depends

    on the print size and repeating. Mostimportant issue is that there must be two

    same samples, one is performed for testingand the other is kept as reference.

    HT09 TEMA METHOD5 CF TO WET ALKALI LIGHT If the sample is one colour, 5x5 cm

    HT10 ISO 105 E03 CF TO CHLORINATED WATER 15x15 cm

    HT11 ISO 105 E02 CF TO SEA WATER 15x15 cm

    HT12 TEMA METHOD12 CROSS STAINING 5x10 cm

    PHYSICAL (PERFORMANCE ) TESTS

    FT01 ISO 6330 ISO3759

    DIMENSIONAL STABILITY60x60 cm

    FT02 ISO 3801 WEIGHT 60x60 cm

    FT03 ISO 6330 SPIRALITY 60 cm in full width

    FT04 ISO 12945-1 PILLING 50x50 cm

    FT05 ISO 13938-2 BURSTING STRENGTH 60x100 cm

    FT06 ISO 13934-2 TENSILE STRENGTH 60 cm in full width

    FT07 TEMA METHOD2 ELASTICITY 100 cm in full width

    FT08 ISO 13936-1 SEAM SLIPPAGE 70 cm in full width

    FT09 ISO 12947-2 ABRASION 30x20 cm

    FT10 AATCC 93 PILE LOSS 50x50 cm

    FT11 TEMA METHOD3 PERMANENT ELONGATION 100 cm in full width

    FT12 TEMA METHOD8 DRY CLEANING SHRINKAGE 60x60 cmFT13 ISO 4920 WATER REPELLING 50 cm in full width

    FT14 TEMA METHOD

    10

    POST-WASH APPEARENCE If the sample is one colour 30x30 cm,

    If the sample is garment, 2 garments

    FT15 ISO 13937-1 TEARING STRENGTH 40 cm in full width

    FT16 BS EN 22313 WRINKLE RECOVERY ANGLE 50x50 cm

    FT17 ISO 811 WATER PROOF 50 cm in full width

    FT18 TEMA METHOD7 TRIPLE WASH 20x20 cm

    FT19 TEMA METHOD12 BAGGING -----------------------------------

    FT20 TEMA METHOD11DIMENSIONAL CHANGE( FABRIC SAGGING )

    60x60 cm

    FT21 AATCC 118 OIL REPELLING 40x40 cm, 3 samples

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    5.13.2.Reference Standards of Ecological Tests and Required Sample Quantities

    TEST

    CODESTEST NAMES TEST STANDARD

    RIQUIRED SAMPLE

    AMOUNT

    AT-1 Formaldehit JAPAN LAW 112 (JIS L1041) (UV-VS) Min 5 gAT-2 Ph BS EN 1413 Min 10g

    AT-3 Exrtractable Heavy MetalsOeko-Tex Std. 201 M-10/M11 (ICP-MS)Ref=DIN 38406 : E29

    Each Colour - min 1g

    AT-4 PesticidesOeko-Tex Std. 201 M-6 Part A and Part BEPA 1618 E13,E14 (GC/MS veya GC/ECD)

    Min 10g

    AT-5 Clorinated Phenols

    Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-7

    Ref= DIN 53313 : E15 (PCP-TeCP) : E28 (OPP)(GC/MS veya GC/ECD)

    Min 10 g

    AT-6AAZO Dyes (Cotton and Cotton

    Blends, except Polyester)35 LMBG: 82.02.02 (DIN EN 14362-1)

    AT-6B AZO Dyes (Polyester) 35 LMBG: 82.02.04 (DIN EN 14362-2)

    AT-6C AZO Dyes (Polyester Blends)35 LMBG: 82.02.02 (DIN EN 14362-1)

    35 LMBG: 82.02.04 (DIN EN 14362-2)

    AT-6D AZO Dyes (Leathers) 35 LMBG: 82.02.03 (DIN 53316)

    Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-7AAllergenic Dyestuffs (Dispers

    Dyes)

    Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-4

    EDIN NMP 512 (HPLC-DAD-MSD)Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-7B Carcinogenic Dyestuffs

    Banned Azo Dyes and Allergenic (Dispers)

    Dyestuff TestsEvaluation is done According do results (HPLC-

    DAD MSD)

    Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-8 Chlorine Benzens and ToluensOeko-Tex Std. 201 M-2

    E: 20 (GC/MS veya GC/ECD)Min 5g

    AT-9 Biological Active Agents Only the given list can be used -

    AT-10 Phatalates in PVC (Total)Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M18E: 39 (GS/MS veya HPLC-DAD)

    Each Colour - min 1g

    AT-11 PCBs PCTsRef: DIN 51527-1EPA 3545 E: 23 (GC/MS veya GC-ECD)

    Min 5g

    AT-12Organo Tin CompoundsTBT/MBT/DBT/TeBT

    Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-17

    Ref: DIN 38407 : 13 E: 24(GC/MSD)

    Each Colour - min 5 g

    AT-13A Nickel DIN EN 1811 Nickel (Coated and uncoated) Minimum two samples

    AT-13B NickelDIN EN 12472 Coating apart from NickelCoatings (ICP-MS)

    Minimum two samples

    AT-14 Cadmium in Plastic Prints EN 1122 (ICP-MS) Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-15 PVC Determination Beilstein Burning test -

    AT-16 Saliva Fastness DIN 53160-1 (ICP-MS) Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-17 Toxicity EN 71-Part 3 (ICP-MS) Each Colour - min 1 g

    AT-18 Crom (VI)

    DIN 53314 (UV-VIS)

    Cr VI is performed when Total Crom is more

    than 0,5 ppm

    Each Colour - min 1 g

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    6.ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS

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    6.1.

    SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS

    Perspiration light fastness will not be sought for our all winter season thick fabrics exceptthe products that will be used in summer because of its model and fabric type. These fabrics are

    the following (knitted and woven):

    Knitted:3 yarn, 2 yarn (20/10 brushed, non-brushed),Velvet and towels (plain and engineered stripe),

    Polars,Milano (plain and engineered stripe),30/2 ve 20/1 plain and engineered stripe ribs (brushed, stoned, non-brushed),30/1, 20/1 and 24/1 plain and engineered stripe interlocks (brushed, sanded and non-

    brushed),30/2 and 20/2 supreme (brushed, sanded and non-brushed),

    Woven;Velvets, wool fabric, thick shirt fabrics, flannel type fabrics. Also the thick fabrics that

    cannot be worn as from April.For the fabrics, which are shown above but which could be used in summer, perspiration light

    fastness tests will be conducted. For example, 30/1 interlock might be used in summer seasontherefore decision will be made depending on at what season it is manufactured.

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    7.ECOLOGICAL TESTS

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    7.1.ECOLOGICAL TESTS

    The enclosed table depicts ecological criteria. In some of these criteria, none of therestricted chemicals must have been used whilst in some others; such chemicals must be lower thanthe values shown in the table. The list of restricted chemicals and dying agents pertaining to thesecriteria are given in the pages following the tables.

    Listed restricted chemicals and dying agentsPesticidesHeavy metalsAril amine groups azo dying reagents releaseCarcinogen and allergic dying reagentsChlorine benzene and toluenesRestricted PVC plasticizers (Phthalates)

    For the listed chemicals and dying agents the list of Oekotex 100 standards is the basicreference. Any amendment in Oekotex 100 will also be reflected in these lists.

    Uptodate reference list can be found in the web site http:\\www.oekotex.com.

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    Note 0 ) Baby Group consist of ages 0 3 ( including age 3 ),Note 1 ) Only for natural material and accessories,Note 2 ) Only for natural materials,Note 3 ) Restricted materials are enclosed,

    Note 4 ) Toxicity test is required only for accessories,Note 5 ) It is looked to the Table 5.13.2 for the test methods.

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    7.3.ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES

    7.3.1.

    BIOLOGIC ACTIVE AGENTS (AT09)

    Fibre Materials With Biological Active Properties

    Name Of The Product Country Producer

    Amicor Breathe GB Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford

    Amicor Plus GB Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford

    Amicor Pure GB Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford

    Amipure GB Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford

    ASOTA AM A ASOTA Ges.m.b.H., Linz

    Fillwell Wellcera Anti-Dustmite Fibres

    Rep. Of Ireland Wellman International Ltd.

    Lyocell-Spezialfaser SeaCell

    Active

    D Alceru Schwarza GmbH, Rudolstadt

    New Tafel Parclean J Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.

    Shieldex Silverline D Statex Produktions + Vertriebs GmbH,Bremen

    Trevira Bioactive D Trevira GmbH, Boningen

    Trevira Bioactive E2 D Trevira GmbH, Boningen

    Trevira CS Bioactive D Trevira GmbH, Boningen

    X-Static Fibre USA Noble Fiber Technologies, Inc. Scranton,

    PA

    Auxiliaries For Biological Active Finish

    Name Of The Product Country ProducerActifresh T 20-10 CH Sanitized AG, Burgdorf

    ACTIGARD AM 21-16 CH Sanitized AG, Burgdorf

    ACTIGARD AM 23-13 CH Sanitized AG, Burgdorf

    AEM 5772 (Aegis Microbe Shield) B Devan Chemicals NV, Ronse-Renaix

    Antimicrobial AlphaSan RC 2000 USA Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg

    Antimicrobial AlphaSan RC 5000 USA Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg

    APPEARTEX 100 S Appeartex AB, Gteborg

    Ciba MITIN FF (HC and FL) CH Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel

    Ciba TINOSAN AM 110 CH Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel

    Ciba TINOSAN AM 110 NEW CH Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel

    Coopex 50 N F Vikem-Kwizda, Marly le Roi

    Eulan SPA 01 D Bayer Chemicals AG, Leverkusen

    HEALTHGUARD PLB AU Global Speciality Chemicals, CampbellfieldMicroban Liquid Formulation 9200-200 USA Microban Products Company, Huntersville

    MICROSTOP PROFYL OK 28 F Breyner, Traitements bio-actives pour textiles,

    Vienne

    Reputex 20 GB Arch UK Biocides Ltd, Castleford

    SANITIZED T96-20 CH Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf

    SANITIZED T96-22 CH Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf

    SANITIZED T99-19 CH Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf

    SANITIZED TPL 20-02 CH Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf

    SARPU D DKSH GmbH, Hamburg

    THEA-FLAN (30A, 30E) J ITO EN, LTD, Sizuoka-ken

    Troysan Polyphase P-100 NL Troy Chemical Company BV, Maasluis

    ULTRA-FRESH NM 100 CAN Thomson Research Associates, Toronto

    ULTRA-FRESH NM-V2 CAN Thomson Research Associates, Toronto

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    7.3.2.FORMALDEHYDE (AT01)

    Description: Formaldehyde is a volatile colorless gas and found in small quantities inatmosphere, tobacco, glue and air pollution. Formaldehyde is contaminant parallel to its volatilenature. If a cloth containing formaldehyde is put on another clothe, it will be contaminated byformaldehyde. Formaldehyde can cause allergy, itching and eczema. The fabric samples that arerequired for testing must be packed and put into pouches individually.

    Use: Formaldehyde and the agents releasing formaldehyde is used for shrink-proof finishing,crease-proof finishing, preserving dyed and print and fixing.

    7.3.3.

    PH (AT02)

    Description: Ph value represents if solutions are acidic or alkali. Lower values indicate acidicsolutions whilst high values show alkali solutions. High PH values (over 8) cause skin sensitivity,redness and itching. Very high PH values cause burns on human skin. The fabric samples that arerequired for testing must be packed and put into pouches individually.

    Various chemicals, metals used in textile, clothe production; product washing and finishingdetermine final PH values. Chemicals that are used for mercerization process have high PH values.

    Textile products undergo processes with various basic and acidic substances during finishingoperations. Basic or acidic residues on a textile product can irritate skin in humid environment. Inorder to prevent that, the PH value of textile products must be the same or close to the pH valid ofhuman skin (about pH=5,5).

    Textile products that are properly washed and neutralized usually create no problems inconforming to these values.

    7.3.4.

    HEAVY METAL IONS (AT03)

    Heavy metal ions on textile products usually originate from either fibers or dyes used. Due tothe toxicological values of heavy metals, textile products must contain them below a definite limit.The heavy metals are arsenic, lead, cadmium, cobalt, chrome (total), chrome VI, nickel, copper,mercury and antimony.

    7.3.5.RESTRICTED PESTICIDES (AT04)

    Description: Pesticides are contained in fertilizers and agricultural medicine that are used atgrowing of natural fibers (as cotton) and do not get decomposed until final use.

    They increase the toxic substances in humans and animals. This may give harm toreproduction, hormonal and immunity systems of humans and animals. It is suspected that somepesticides carry carcinogen substances.

    Use: Pesticides are used at growing plants, animals or natural fibers in order to preventreproduction of insects.

    NO Name CAS-No. NO Name CAS- No NO Name CAS- No.

    1 2,4,5-T 93-76-5 19 DDE 3424-82-6, 72-55-9 37 Hexachlorcyclohexane 319-86-8

    2 2,4-D 94-75-7 20 DDT 50-29-3, 789-02-6 38 Lindane 58-89-9

    3 Azinophosmethyl 86-50-0 21 Diazinon 333-41-5 39 Malathion 121-75-5

    4 Azinophosethyl 2642-71-9 22 Dichlorprop 120-36-2 40 MCPA 94-74-6

    5 Aldrine 309-00-2 23 Dicrotophos 141-66-2 41 MCPB 94-81-5

    6 Bromophos-ethyl 4824-78-6 24 Dieldrine 60-57-1 42 Mecoprop 93-65-2

    7 Captafol 2425-06-1 25 Dimethoate 60-51-5 43 Metamidophos 10265-92-6

    8 Carbaryl 63-25-2 26 Dinoseb ve tuzlar 88-85-7 44 Methoxychlor 72-43-5

    9 Chlordane 57-74-9 27 Endosulfan, - 115-29-7 45 Mirex 2385-85-5

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    10Chlordimeform 1970-95-9 28 Endosulfan, - 33213-65-9 46 Monocrotophos 6923-22-4

    11 Chlorfenvinphos 470-90-6 29 Endrine 72-20-8 47 Parathion 56-38-2

    12 Coumaphos 56-72-4 30 Esfenvalerate 66230-04-4 48 Parathion-methyl 298-00-0

    13 Cyfluthrin 68359-37-5 31 Fenvalerate 51630-58-1 49 Phosdrin/Mevinphos 7786-34-7

    14 Cyhalothrin 91465-08-06 32 Heptachlor 76-44-8 50 Propethamphos 31218-83-4

    15 Cypermethrin 52315-07-8 33 Heptachloroepoxide 1024-57-3 51 Profenophos 41198-08-7

    16 DEF 34 Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1 52 Quinalphos 13593-03-8

    17 Deltamethrin 52918-63-5 35 Hexachlorcyclohexane 319-84-6 53 Toxaphene 8001-35-2

    18 DDD 53-19-0, 72-54-8 36 Hexachlorcyclohexane 319-85-7 54 Trifluralin 1582-09-8

    7.3.6.

    CHLORINE PHENOLS (AT05)

    Pentachlorophenol (PCP), Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), o-Phenyl phenol (OOP) are used aspreservatives for raw materials and ready garments (fungicide, anti-bacterial) preventing moldingof products during long transports. They can produce very poisonous substances by reacting with

    other substances in the environment.

    7.3.7.RESTRICTED AZO DYES (AT06)

    Description: Some AZO dyes cause formation of free amino groups after dyeing. 4 of thesefree amino groups are identified as absolutely carcinogenic whilst 20 of them are identified as likelycarcinogenic. The listed free amino groups must be lower than the specified limits for dyed fabrics.

    Use: Dyeing of textile, plastics and leather products.

    7.3.7.1.

    MAK III, category 1

    NO Name CAS-No.

    1 4-Aminobiphenyl 92-67-1

    2 Benzidine 92-87-5

    3 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2

    4 2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8

    7.3.7.2.MAK III, category 2

    NO Name CAS-No. NO Name CAS-No.

    1 o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3

    2 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8 114,4-Methylene-bis-

    (2-chloroaniline) 101-14-4

    3 p-Chloroaniline 106-47-8 12 4,4'-Oxydianiline 101-80-4

    4 2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4 13 4,4'-Thiodianiline 139-65-1

    5 4,4'-Diaminobiphenylmethane 101-77-9 14 o-Toluidine 95-53-4

    6 3.3'-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1 15 2,4-Toluylendiamine 95-80-7

    7 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 16 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7

    8 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7 17 o-Anisidine 90-04-0

    18 2,4-Xylidine 95-68-19 3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-

    diaminobiphenylmethane 838-88-0 19 2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7

    10 p-Cresidine 120-71-8 20 4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3

    There is not an international accepted test method for 4-Aminoazobenzene

    7.3.8.CHLORINE BENZENE AND TOLUENE (AT08)

    Description: Chlorine benzenes can affect nervous system. Furthermore they can irritate skinand fluid secreting membranes. Most types of chlorine hydro carbons do not get decomposed innature. They penetrate into human and animal bodies.

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    Use: Chlorine Benzenes are used in dyeing polyester or wool-polyester blends. Also they canbe used as solvents.

    NO Name NO Name

    1 Dichlorobenzenes 6 Chlorotoluenes

    2 Trichlorobenzenes 7 Dichlorotoluenes

    3 Tetrachlorobenzenes 8 Trichlorotoluenes

    4 Pentachlorobenzenes 9 Tetrachlorotoluenes

    5 Hexachlorobenzene 10 Pentachlorotoluene

    7.3.9.

    RESTRICTED CARCINOGEN AND ALLERGIC DYES (AT07)

    Description: The dye-stuff in Table 7.1.8. is described as carcinogenic whilst the dye-stuff intable 7.1.8.2 is described as allergic.

    Use: Mostly they are used to dye polyester fibers. But they are also used for dyeing other

    man-made fibers as polyamide, acetate, and viscose.

    7.3.9.1.CARCINOGEN DYES

    NO C.I. Generic Name C.I. Structure no. CAS-No.

    1 C.I. Acid Red 26 C.I. 16 150 3761-53-3

    2 C.I. Basic Red 9 C.I. 42 500 25620-78-4

    3 C.I. Basic Violet 14 C.I. 42 510 632-99-5

    4 C.I. Direct Black 38 C.I. 30 235 1937-37-7

    5 C.I. Direct Blue 6 C.I. 22 610 2602-46-2

    6 C.I. Direct Red 28 C.I. 22 120 573-58-0

    7 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. 64 500 2475-45-8

    8 C.I. Disperse Orange 11 C.I. 60 700 82-28-0

    9 C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. 11 855 2832-40-8

    7.3.9.2.ALLERGIC DYES

    NO C.I. Generic Name C.I. Structure no CAS-No NO C.I. Generic Name C.I. Structure no CAS-No.

    1 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. 64 500 2475-45-8 12 C.I. Disperse Orange 37 C.I. 11 132

    2 C.I. Disperse Blue 3 C.I. 61 505 2475-46-9 13 C.I. Disperse Orange 76 C.I. 11 132

    3 C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. 62 500 3179-90-6 14 C.I. Disperse Red 1 C.I. 11 110 2872-52-8

    4 C.I. Disperse Blue 26 C.I. 63 305 15 C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. 62 015 2872-48-2

    5 C.I. Disperse Blue 35 12222-75-2 16 C.I. Disperse Red 17 C.I. 11 210 3179-89-3

    6 C.I. Disperse Blue 102 12222-97-8 17 C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. 10 345 119-15-37 C.I. Disperse Blue 106 12223-01-7 18 C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. 11 855 2832-40-8

    8 C.I. Disperse Blue 124 61951-51-7 19 C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. 10 375 6373-73-5

    9 C.I. Disperse Brown 1 23355-64-8 20 C.I. Disperse Yellow 39

    10 C.I. Disperse Orange 1 C.I. 11 080 2581-69-3 21 C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

    11 C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. 11 005 730-40-5

    7.3.10. POLYVINYLCHLORIDE (PVC)

    7.3.10.1.PVC (AT15)

    Description: PVC is a plastic that can be available in soft or hard, transparent or coloured

    forms. The materials that are used to produce PVC or PVC itself can contain substances, which are

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    or might be poisonous. For example phthalate, cadmium, lead. When PVC is heated and burned, thereis a risk of emitting hazardous substances to the environment.

    Use: It is used in textile sector for producing PVC soft plastic accessories (labels, zippers) orfor coating fabrics. It is also used to produce imitation leather products. Some prints are made of

    PVC.

    7.3.10.2.RESTRICTED PHTHALATES (AT10)

    Description: Phthalates can penetrate in body when contacted with plastics through saliva orperspiration. Even a small amount of phthalate on clothe can be detached from the product afterwashing and thus make environment pollution. Phthalates are the substances that can give harm tothe hormonal systems of humans and animals who are suspected of being carcinogen.

    NO Name CAS-No.

    1 Di-iso-nonylphtalate 28553-12-0 DINP

    2 Di-n-octylphthalate 117-84-0 DNOP

    3 Di(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate 117-81-7 DEHP

    4 Diisodecylphthalate 26761-40-0 DIDP

    5 Butylbenzylphthalate 85-68-7 BBP

    6 Dibutuylphthalate 84-74-2 DBP

    7.3.11.ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS (TBT, DBT and MBT) (AT12)

    Description: They might be irritating for skin. Also it is know that the affect human andanimal immunity system. They are poisonous for sea life.

    Use: They are usually used for fixing plastics/rubber. Also used as anti-bacterial finishingagent.

    TBT, DBT and MBT are organotin compounds. These compounds are used as insecticide,fungicide, antibacterial, wood preserving agent and plastic stabilizer. They have very high toxicityfor the organisms living in water. It is known that TBT (tributyltinchloride) compounds have a toxiceffect on nervous system and are absorbed by skin. These compounds are used in some textileauxiliaries.

    7.3.12.

    POLYCHLORINATED BIPHENYLES (PCBs), POLYCHLORINATED TRIPHENYLES (PCTs)

    (AT11)

    Description: PCB and PCTs are big molecules containing chlorine atoms. Chlorine atoms easilypenetrate to organisms and environment since they affect solubility of substances. Their effects on

    hormonal system, liver, immunity system and nervous system were observed. When PCB and PCTsare burned or heated, it is likely that with chlorine dibensophurance substances are released.These released compounds are like dioxins in chemistry and are much more poisonous than PCBitself.

    Use: They are generally used as pesticides and sometimes as flame-retardant, softener andcarrier.

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    7.4.

    TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION

    PhValues

    AzoDyestuuffs(Ma

    cAmines)

    Formaldehyd

    e

    Pesticides

    Chlorinatedphenols(PCP,TeCP,OPP)

    Extractableheavy

    metals

    PCBs,PCTs

    TBT,DBTMBT

    AllergicandCarcinogen

    icdyestuffs

    ChlorineBenzeneand

    Toluenes

    PVCDetermina

    tion

    Phthalates

    Cadmium

    ChromiumV

    I

    TESTS

    T02

    T06

    T01

    T04

    T05

    A

    T03

    T11

    T12

    T07

    T08

    T15

    T10

    T14

    A

    T18

    GROUP 1PRODUCTS ARE CONTAINING

    NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSEFIBRES

    X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 2WOOL BLENDS ARE CONTAINING POLYESTER

    FIBRESX X X X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 3 WOOL BLENDS ARE NOT CONTAININGPOLYESTER

    X X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 4POLYESTER AND SYNTHETICS ARE

    CONTAINING POLYESTER FIBRESX X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 5SYNTHETICS ARE NOT CONTAINING

    POLYESTER AND SYNTHETIC BLEND FIBRESX X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 6NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSEFIBRES BLEND WITH POLYESTER FIBRES

    X X X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 7NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSE

    FIBRES BLEND WITH SYNTHETIC FIBRES(EXCEPT POLYESTER)

    X X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 8 ARTIFICIAL LEATHER X X X X X X X X X

    GROUP 9 LEATHER X X X X X X

    GROUP 10 PRINTS (NOT CONTAINING PLASTICS) X X X X X X Note 4

    GROUP 11 PRINTS (CONTAINING PLASTICS) X X X X X X X X X Note 4

    NOTE 1; Direct dyes have not to be used at any products.NOTE 2; TBT, MBT, DBT tests have to be done for all coated products.NOTE 3; PVC has not to be used at all prints and products.NOTE 4; Chromium VI is performed when Total Chromium is more than 0,5 ppm.

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    TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

    DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02) 50/51ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

    7.5.CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES

    7.5.1.

    Natural and Regenerated Cellulose Fibres

    CottonFlaxHempJuteRamieModalLyocellViscoseAcetateBamboo

    7.5.2.

    Animal Fibre

    WoolAngoraCashmereSilkMohairAlpaca

    7.5.3.Synthetics

    Polyester

    Nylon (Polyamide)AcrylicTactelPolyurethanePolyacrylicPolyvinyl alcoholPolypropylenePVCModacrylicPolyvinyl acetateAsbestos

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    TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

    7.6.TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS

    1 4 5 6

    Test sample definition

    Metaltrimmin

    gs

    Plastic,

    Polyest

    er,

    Nylon,

    Solid

    materials

    PlasticLabel

    Leather

    Material

    MetalButton, Pin,

    Metal Snap,

    Buckle i.e.

    Plastic

    Button,Stopper,

    VislonZipper, NylonZip i.e.

    pH Value X

    Formaldehyde X

    Heavy Metals (Cu) X

    Heavy Metals (Co) X

    Heavy Metals (Cr-total X

    Heavy Metals (Cr+6) *

    Heavy Metals (Ni) X

    Heavy Metals (Ni) Abraded

    Heavy Metals (Hg)

    Heavy Metals (As)

    Ar Metal (Sb) X

    Heavy Metals (Cd) X

    Heavy Metals (Pb) X

    Phthalate X ***

    Azo Dyes (Mac Amines) X

    Allergenic Dyes X

    Saliva ** **

    PCP- TECP-OPP-NP X

    Toxicity X X X

    Nickel X

    * Chromium VI is performed when Total Chromium is more than 0,5 ppm.** Only for baby products.*** Only for artificial leather.

    All tests of solid dyed and printed woven trimmings will be required referring the Table ofth E l i l t t di t t i l iti (S T bl 7 3)