Upload
todd-gruel
View
86
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
3/3/16, 10:12 AMFarm to Table | SOUND FRESH CLAMS & OYSTERS | Washington Restaurant Association | Our mission is to help our members succeed
Page 1 of 3http://warestaurant.org/blog/farm-to-table-sound-fresh-clams-oysters-2/
What are you looking for?
January 25, 2016
Farm to Table | SOUND FRESH CLAMS & OYSTERS
“Farm-to-table hasn’t lost its meaning”, John Adams, the owner of Sound Fresh Clams & Oysters, assures me. “It’s
reconnected people to food”, he continues. I met with John Adams and Amy Adams after a day they spend vending
at the Olympia Farmer’s Market. Sitting down with them both, it became apparent rather quickly that they are
practicing what they love. Although they may be critical of the food industry as a whole, they are steadfastly
optimistic about the farm-to-table movement itself.
John has noticed that there’s a lot of pressure for processed foods in our culture. “If you consider the square
footage of a supermarket”, he points out, “there’s less square footage in a market available for organic, locally
sourced, and farm-to-table food in general. The food choices available in a supermarket lead us away from our
connection to healthy food”.
He approximates that only 1.7% of our population is currently farming. “We’re leaving behind our concern for the
health of our person and planet”, John warns, “and moving instead towards time constraints, households with
double incomes, and processed food. As a result, our lifestyle choices are moving us further away from healthy
food”. Not only is farming fading as a vocation, but interest in healthy food is fading, too.
Sound Fresh Clams & Oysters used to deliver to oyster bars in downtown Seattle; but they now use a local
distributor instead. Although distance from the buyer isn’t ideal, John maintains that being removed from face-to-
face contact with their customers hasn’t necessarily disrupted their ability to communicate with restaurants. Since
oyster bars document where the shellfish comes from, the source of their food is still communicated to consumers.
For a smaller farm that makes a majority of its living vending through a farmer’s market, they’re doing pretty well.
As a result of sustaining a steady level of product to meet the market’s demands though, the need for consistency
0 0 0 0
Previous Videos
GET THE MOST OUT OF THIS WEBSITE!
Government Affairs regulations minimumwage labor laborcosts technology Seattle Weekly news
letter Washington Restaurant Weekly bestpractices market watch Tacoma health
care operations advocacy costsavings industrytrends Liquor training paid sickleave safety humanresources ACA affordable care
act consumer trends healthyeating digitalmarketing DineNW nutrition GAC Awards EducationFoundation LCB marketing restaurant
workforce WRA workplacesafety industryleaders healthinsurance taxes legislative session
2015 payments Alcohol ProStart
KEYWORD TAGS
INDUSTRY NEWS RECENT EVENTS
FULL SERVICE QSR LODGING NEWS ! ADVOCACY ! PROGRAMS ! RESOURCES ! TRAINING ! MEMBERSHIP ! EVENTS !
Foodservice Show Marketplace ServSafe Retro Contact LoginHome About WRA Join/Renew
3/3/16, 10:12 AMFarm to Table | SOUND FRESH CLAMS & OYSTERS | Washington Restaurant Association | Our mission is to help our members succeed
Page 2 of 3http://warestaurant.org/blog/farm-to-table-sound-fresh-clams-oysters-2/
CATEGORIES: FULL SERVICE, PROGRAMS, QUICKSERVICE, WRA BLOG, WRA BLOG - HEALTHY EATING,WRA BLOG - SUSTAINABILITY
TAGS: FARM TO TABLE, FOOD SOURCING, HEALTHYEATING, NUTRITION, ORGANIC, SUSTAINABILITY
changes the structure of their farming – which puts a cap on what they can do. In order to achieve consistency,
Sound Fresh Clams & Oysters modifies their crop rotation patterns: diversifying the products between species
while growing each crop at different times.
When I ask if consumers have a role in sustaining the farm-to-table movement, John answers, “If you had asked me
two days ago, I would have said ‘yes’. But sustainability is not the responsibility of the consumer; it’s the
responsibility of the restaurant (along with the supply chain that distributes to restaurants) or kitchen managers”.
Yet his wife feels otherwise, warning, “if it’s not driven by public outcry, it won’t last. And yet public outcry takes
years. Larger businesses buy more beaches and have greater access to seed. It takes years for a movement to gain
enough momentum to make a change – but by then the damage is deeply done”.
Fortunately, their solution is already implied above. “What we need”, Amy continues, “is more access to seed and
land. Larger companies have a greater ability to grab that away from the small scale”. Once in position to grab from
smaller farmers, Amy rebukes, bigger companies then “perpetuate their value of profit over anything else.
Efficiency methods lead to profit, but result in cheaper labor, a larger carbon footprint, etc.”
I found myself wondering if the same farm-to-table standards, which Sound Fresh Clams & Oysters promote, can
exist on a larger scale. How about supermarket chains that now carry products which advertise farm-to-table
values? John is skeptical: “Walmart might be driving the price down for local farmers. That downward price pressure
leaves smaller farmers with less land and less seed. Sure, larger companies can easily go the organic route and
have it certified at Walmart. But is it still unprocessed? And how many middlemen are there? How many hands
direct the effort?”
Both John and Amy question why farm subsidies tend to primarily focus on larger farms. Instead, they propose
subsidizations to smaller farms through tax cuts and grants. Small farmers just don’t have the time and the labor to
pursue both their farming practices and cost-saving elements. “It’s frustrating being part of an overworked and
under-valued people trying to advocate for themselves”, John emotes. “It’s especially difficult”, he adds, “while living
on the knife-edge between crop success and crop failure”. As self-advocates, small farmers simply can’t compete
against lobbyists with PhDs. At the end of the day, John and Amy are just too overwhelmed to research grants.
Ultimately, Sound Fresh Clams & Oysters wants to promote “sustainability as a direction, rather than an end state”.
This refocusing of attention emphasizes how we consume and interact with food, as well as how we interact with
people.
In John’s words, the issue of organically raised product becomes “squishy and weird” for shellfish. Since shellfish get
their food from a natural body of water, which carries minerals and input from other sources, there’s no promises
or guarantees that the food is organic. And when you don’t know where your food gets its food from, the organic
status of the final product is questionable. There are less reasonable assurances for shellfish than there are for soil-
based produce.
So what do you do when your best measurement still complicates the bottom line? Well, John reasons, “if the whole
farm-to-table issue was an easy problem to fix then it would have been fixed by now!” Unflinchingly resolute, John
and Amy Adams are patient and faithful in the little things. As a 3rd generation farm, they’re concerned about
leaving something positive behind for their kids. Pursuing farm-to-table values, for them, is about doing your best
to live between the lines that you’ve drawn. It’s about the direction behind your intention. And their that-a-way
objective, in itself, is enough for them to carry on.
Written by Todd Gruel
RELATED ARTICLES
Is tipping on the way out?
NRN senior food editor Bret Thorn says eliminating
tipping won’t be easy. Nancy, I’d like to get your
opinion on the subject of tipping, or more accurately,
doing away with it. (Nation’s Restaurant News)
MARCH 3, 2016
RPI bounces back above 100
Although same-store sales and customer traffic
indicators remained mixed, the National Restaurant
Association’s Restaurant Performance Index (RPI)
bounced back above 100 in January. The RPI stood at
100.6 in January, up 0.8 percent from December’s
level of 99.7. (National Restaurant Association)
MARCH 3, 2016
Chefs find new uses for seaweed
Chefs are exploring new uses for seaweed beyond its
traditional role in Japanese cuisine. Some chefs
forage for their own sea plants, such as Warren Barr
of the Wickaninnish Inn on Canada’s west coast.
“Guests love seeing us go out there and pick these
fresh seaweeds,” he said. (Chef)
MARCH 3, 2016
Here They Are: The Top 20 Most Talented People in
Seattle
In January, we asked our readers to nominate a
talented Seattle-area individual–in any profession or
medium–who they thought should make our
inaugural list of the Top 20 Most Talented People in
Seattle. That list (entirely selected by readers) is
officially live. (Seattle Weekly)
MARCH 3, 2016
Early morning fire damages Twisp River Pub
An early morning blaze on Monday (Feb. 29) caused
extensive damage to the Twisp River Pub on Highway
20. The cause of the fire is under investigation.
(Methow Valley News)
MARCH 3, 2016
SPONSORS
3/3/16, 10:12 AMFarm to Table | SOUND FRESH CLAMS & OYSTERS | Washington Restaurant Association | Our mission is to help our members succeed
Page 3 of 3http://warestaurant.org/blog/farm-to-table-sound-fresh-clams-oysters-2/
Washington state’s staggeringdeficit puts the businesscommunity at risk
New York City to ImplementVoluntary Sodium Reduction
WRA Seattle Chapter Salutes LawEnforcement Bravery
© 2016 Washington Restaurant Association | Our mission is to help our members succeed. All Rights Reserved. Policies Privacy Statement Contact WRA