FASH 15 textiles

other fabrication methods

fabrication methods

many ways to produce fabric other than weaving or knitting

fabrics from solutions—films

•made directly from a polymer solution•most made from vinyl or polyurethane solutions

structures:•plain—firm, dense, and uniform; usually impermeable to air and water; have excellent soil resistance•expanded—spongier, softer and plumper; air cells incorporated into compound•supported—plain or expanded attached to a support fabric

fabrics from solutions—foams

•made by incorporating air into elasticlike substance•polyurethane most common•known for bulkiness & sponginess

used as:•carpet backing & underlay•furniture padding•pillow forms•laminated to fabric for apparel & interior textiles•shredded foam used to stuff pillows & toys

fabrics from fibers

some fabrics made directly from fibers or fiber-forming solutions—no processing of fibers to yarn

include very old (felt & tapa) & new processes (netlike fruit bags)

fabrics from fibers—nonwoven or fiberweb

nonwoven—somewhat confusing, refers to wide variety of fabric structures

nonwoven = fiberweb—include:•all textile-sheet structures •made from fibrous webs•bonded by mechanical fiber entanglement, resin, thermal fusion or the forming of chemical complexes

properties controlled by:•fiber arrangement•fiber properties•binder properties

fabrics from fibers—web production

quick & inexpensive to produce—often ½ cost of woven•select fibers•forming web•bonding web together

five techniques:•dry-laid—carding or air-laying fibers in random or oriented pattern•wet-laid—slurry of short paper-process-length and textile-length fibers and water•spun-bonded—made immediately after melt-spun fibers are extruded from spinnerets•spun-lace—jets of water forced through web•melt-blown—extruding polymer through single orifice into high velocity heated air-stream to break ultrfine fiber into short pieces

fabrics from fibers—fabric production

webs have very little strength in unbounded formbecome fabrics through:•mechanical needling—needle punching•application of chemical compounds, adhesives, heat

can be finished to meet customer needs—coating, laminating, printing, flocking, dyeing or finishing processes:•flame retardant•water repellent•antistatic•breathable•absorbent

fabrics from fibers—fiberfill

batting, wadding, and fiberfill are not fabrics but VERY important components in apparel & interiors

•batting—made from new fiber•wadding—made from waste fiber•fiberfill—manufactured fiber staple made especially for use as a filler•down—undercoating of waterfowl

fiber density & shifting resistance important consideration for all

fabrics from fibers—fusible nonwovens

contribute body and shape to garments as interfacing or interlinings in shirts, blouses, dresses & outerwear

coated with heat-sealable, thermoplastic adhesive—bonds to fabric by heat and pressure

•eliminate the need for stitching•less skilled labor is required•may generate problems in shrinkage & separation of layers during care

fabrics from fibers—felt

mat or web of wool or mostly wool—fibers held together by interlocking of wool scales

most craft felts are not true felt because they do not contain wool—usually wet- or dry-laid nonwoven fiberwebs

•do not have grain, do not ravel•stiff, less pliable & weaker than other structures•quality depends upon quality of fibers•used in apparel accessories, crafts & technical matting

fabrics from fibers—netlike structures

include all textile structures formed by extruding one or more fiber-forming polymers as a film or network of ligaments or strands

fabrics from yarns—braids

narrow fabrics in which yarns interlace lengthwise & diagonally

•good elongation•very pliable—curve around edges nicely

used for:•trims•shoelaces•technical component coverings

fabrics from yarns—lace

openwork fabric with complex patterns or figures, handmade or machine made using several methods

•most commercial lace made by raschel knitting machines or special lace machines•yarns may be twisted around each other to create open areas•classified according to way it is made & appearance•quality based on fineness of yarns, number of yarns per square inch, closeness of ground, intricacy of design

fabrics from yarns—embroidery

only technique in which yarn can be arranged in almost any direction

usually considered an aesthetic or surface design, also used to create technical textiles (sensor)

composite fabrics

composite fabrics combine several primary and/or secondary structures into a single structure

•coated—combines textile fabric with polymer film•poromeric—combines textile fabric with microporous film•suedelike—needle-punched fabrics made from microdenier fibers combined with resin coating & nonfibrous polyurethane•flocked—have fine natural or synthetic surface fiber applied to base fabric•tufted-pile—yarns carried by needles forced through fabric & formed into cut or uncut loops•laminates—two layers of fabric combined into onewith an adhesive or foam

composite fabrics

composite fabrics combine several primary and/or secondary structures into a single structure

•stitch-bonded—combine textile structures by adhering fabric layers with fiber or yarn loops, chemical adhesives, or fusion of thermoplastic fibers•quilted fabrics—consist of three layers; face fabric, fiberfill or batting, and backing fabric—bonded with thread, chemical adhesive or fusion•supported-scrim structures—combine lightweight nylon scrim and loose warp-knit fabric between two layers of polyurethane foam (Vellux)•fiber-reinforced materials—combine fibrous component with polymer of resin, metal or ceramic matrix

animal products—leather

processed from skins & hides of mammals, reptiles, fish & birds

•hides vary in size, thickness and grain•grain—marking resulting from skin formation•other surface factors:

• bites & scratches• scars• brand marks• skin disease• veins & wrinkles

•go through many processes—salting, cleaning, tanning, bleaching, stuffing, coloring, dyeing, staking & finishing by glazing, boarding, buffing, snuffing, embossing

animal products—suede

popular leather for coats, jackets, dresses, trims, upholstery & wallcoverings

soft, dull surface made by napping—running skin under coarse emery sander—on flesh side to pull up fibers

grain-sueded leather (nubuck)—napped on grain side & has velvetlike hand

durable, but requires special care—moisture damages suede

animal products—fur

animal skin to which the hair, fleece or fur fibers are attached

mostly used in apparel, but also for throws and rugs, wall hangings, & animal toys

•natural products—vary in quality•good quality has very dense pile depends upon health of animal, season it was killed (late fall best)•cost depends upon fashion, supply & demand, and work involved in producing item•chinchilla, mink, sable, platina fox & ermine—always most expensive

participation activity:fabrication identification

…using the fabric grab bag or your own resources at home, locate an example of one of the many fabric/products discussed today…attach your fabric to a sheet of paper and provide the following information:

• name• type• fabrication method/process• indicators of quality• uses