Frommer's Poland

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Poznan's colorful Old Town Square is full of people and performance art from morning till night. See chapter 10.

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Poland

Poland

2ndEdition

2nd Edition

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Poland2nd Edition

by Mark Baker & Kit F. Chung

01_9780470681602-ffirs.indd i01_9780470681602-ffirs.indd i 3/31/11 12:29 PM3/31/11 12:29 PM

Published by:

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Copyright 2011 John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the

copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic or mech-

anicalwithout prior written permission of the publisher. Any request for photocopying or other repro-

graphic copying of any part of this book shall be directed in writing to The Canadian Copyright Licensing

Agency (Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright license, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll

free, 1-800-893-5777.

Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

and/or its affiliates. Frommers is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under

license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not

associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

ISBN 978-0-470-68160-2 (paper); 978-0-470-96425-5 (eMobi); 978-0-470-96424-8 (ePDF)

Editor: Gene Shannon

Developmental Editor: Melissa Klurman

Production Editor: Pauline Ricablanca

Editorial Assistant: Katie Wolsley

Cartographer: Lohnes+Wright

Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: Morskie Oko lake, Tatra Mountains Jan Wlodarczyk / Alamy Images

Back cover photo: The Old Square in Poznan Jan Wlodarczyk / Alamy Images

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our

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1 2 3 4 5 RRD 15 14 13 12 11

01_9780470681602-ffirs.indd ii01_9780470681602-ffirs.indd ii 3/31/11 12:29 PM3/31/11 12:29 PM

2POLAND IN DEPTH13Poland Today14

Looking Back at Poland16

Poland in Popular Culture: Film, Books, and Music22

Eating & Drinking in Poland27

CONTENTS List of Mapsvi

1THE BEST OF POLAND1The Best Travel Experiences1

The Best Hotel Splurges2

The Best Hotel Bargains3

The Best Local Dining4

The Best Places to Get Pierogi6

The Best Souvenirs6

The Best Communist-Era Experiences7

The Best Ways to Act Like a Local8

The Best Diamonds in the Rough9

The Best Outdoor Activities10

The Best Museums10

The Best Castles & Churches12

3PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO POLAND29When to Go29POLAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS30

Entry Requirements33

Getting There & Getting Around34

Money & Costs38

Health39

Safety40

Specialized Travel Resources41

Responsible Tourism43

Special Interest & Escorted Trips45

Staying Connected46

Tips on Accommodations48

4SUGGESTED POLAND ITINERARIES50POLAND IN 1 WEEK51

POLAND IN 2 WEEKS53

POLAND FOR FAMILIES55

5-DAY FOCUS ON JEWISH HERITAGE57

5-DAY SCENIC DRIVE THROUGH POLAND59

5-DAY OUTDOOR VACATION IN POLAND61

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Gdask235

Sopot & Gdynia250

The Hel Peninsula256

eba & Sowiski National Park259

Malbork262

Elbla g265

11GDASK & THE BALTIC COAST234

Krakw121

Around Krakw: The Wieliczka Salt Mine149

Auschwitz-Birkenau (Owie cim)152

Zakopane & the Tatra National Park155

Tarnw162

7KRAKW, ZAKOPANE & THE TATRA MOUNTAINS120

d100

Cze stochowa108

Katowice112

Cieszyn116

6D & SOUTH-CENTRAL POLAND99

Essentials65

Getting Around66FAST FACTS: WARSAW67

Where to Stay69

Where to Dine76

SWEET SPOTS79Exploring Warsaw80

Shopping92

After Dark96

5WARSAW64

8LUBLIN & SOUTHEASTERN POLAND167Lublin168

Chem178

Beec180

Zamo181

Kazimierz Dolny185

9WROCAW & LOWER SILESIA189Wrocaw190THE BATTLE FOR BRESLAU192

Around Wrocaw: Ksia Castle, widnica & Jawor199

Jelenia Gra & Karkonosze National Park203

Kodzko209

10CENTRAL & NORTHWEST POLAND212Pozna212

Gniezno224

Biskupin227

Toru228

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Fast Facts: Poland291 Airline Websites296

APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS & USEFUL WEBSITES291

The Mazurian Lake District269

Augustw & the Suwaki Lake District276

Biaystok & Environs281

Biaowiea286

12NORTHEAST POLAND268

APPENDIX B: USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES297Basic Vocabulary297

Menu Terms299

Menu Glossary301

Index303General Index303

Accommodations Index310

Restaurant Index311

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Looking Back at Poland17

Poland in 1 Week52

Poland in 2 Weeks54

Poland for Families56

A 5-Day Focus on Jewish Heritage58

A 5-Day Scenic Drive through Poland60

A 5-Day Outdoor Vacation in Poland62

Warsaw70

South-Central Poland101

Krakw & the Tatras123

Top Attractions127

Where to Stay139

Where to Dine145

Southeastern Poland169

Lower Silesia191

Central & Northwest Poland213

The Baltic Coast239

Gdansk241

Northeast Poland271

LIST OF MAPS

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HOW TO CONTACT USIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful placeshotels, restaurants, shops, and more. Were sure youll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, wed love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommers Poland, 2nd EditionJohn Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd. 6045 Freemont Blvd. Mississauga, ON L5R 4J3

AN ADDITIONAL NOTEPlease be advised that travel information is subject to change at any timeand this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held respon-sible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

ABOUT THE AUTHORSJournalist, photographer, and freelance writer Mark Baker has had a deep interest in Cen-tral Europe since receiving a degree in International Affairs at Columbia University in the 1980s. He currently lives in Prague, Czech Republic, but is a frequent visitor to, and a big fan of, Poland. In addition to writing guide books, he is a contributor to The Wall Street Journal Europe and National Geographic Traveler, among other publications.

Kit F. Chung is a Malaysian-born freelance writer who has been based in Warsaw since 2001. Poland is her first encounter with a former Iron Curtain country. Decoding her adopted home has been made fun and easy by Poles who tolerate her incessant inquisitive questions on anything and everything Polish. Kit contributes regularly to local and interna-tional publications on all things Polish, covering food and travel (naturally) as well as people, culture, art and designs.

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FROMMERS STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONSEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use four feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tour-ists. Throughout the book, look for:

special findsthose places only insiders know about

fun factsdetails that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kidsbest bets for kids and advice for the whole family

special momentsthose experiences that memories are made of

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:AEAmerican Express DISCDiscover VVisaDCDiners Club MCMasterCard

TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COMFrommers travel resources dont end with this guide. Frommers website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodg-ing, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

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1THE BEST OF POLANDNowhere in Europe does history feel as alive and con-temporary as it does in Poland, a country thats a virtual living history museum. Whether, like me, youre a budding World War II buff with a healthy dose of

curiosity about the Communist period or your interests stretch further back in time to the duchies and kingdoms of the Middle Ages, theres riveting history here for every interest. Its an inspiring destination, as well. Cities such as Warsaw, Gda^sk, and Wrocaw were flattened in World War II; now, theyve been restored to their former beauty and are brim-ming with culture and energy. The countrys medieval capital, Krakw, is easily Pragues equal for architectural splendor, and maybe a notch above when it comes to concerts, museums, and Jewish heritage (just dont tell the Czechs).

Theres also an undeniable off the beaten track appeal to Poland. Poles have long known about their countrys treasures, but for the rest of us, the country is still largely terra incognita. Thats changing slowly, but for the time being, that means the lines into the attractions are a bit less crushing and the welcomes here that much more genuine than you might find in better-known destinations.

THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCESW Sip Your Coffee on Krakws Main Square: Superlatives dont do jus-

tice to Krakws main square, the Rynek Gwny. Its said to be Central Europes largest town square and is reputed to have the most bars and cafes per square meter than any other place in the world. Even if thats not the case, its still one of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful public spaces youll find in Poland and the perfect spot to enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of beer, and watch the world go by. Dont forget to listen for the bugler on top of St. Marys Church at the top of the hour. See p.126.

W Reflect on History at the Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (O1wicim): The word best is clearly a misnomer here, yet a visit to the Nazi wartime extermination camp that came to define the Holo-caust is one of the most deeply affecting and moving experiences you will have anywhere. Give yourself several hours to take in both camps

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1 (just a couple of miles apart). Auschwitz is undeniably horrible, but it is at Birke-nau where you really grasp the scale of the tragedy. See p.152.W Shop for Souvenirs along Gdasks Duga Street: As you stroll Gda^sks main

pedestrian thoroughfare, its hard to believe this stunning port city was reduced to rubble in World War II, so historically sensitive was the reconstruction. Amber-philes will think they died and went to heaven. Its not surprising when you con-sider that the Baltic Sea (where amber comes from) is just a block away. Still, the quality and choice is overwhelming. Theres even an amber museum if the shops dont have what youre looking for. See p.249.

W Look for Bison in Biaowiea (Biaowie9a National Park): Better put this under your Most Unexpected Travel Experiences. Who would have imagined that part of Polands eastern border with Belarus is primeval forest thats home to Europes largest surviving bison herd? Both children and adults alike will enjoy touring the pristine national park. See p.289.

W Visit a Wooden Peace Church (Jawor and 2widnica): Few visitors to Poland have heard of these two massive 17th-century wooden Protestant churches in southwest Poland. Congregations had to build the churches from wood because of strictures on Protestant worship at the time by the Catholic Habsburg rulers. The churches size, grace, and stunning beauty all testify to the builders faith and their remarkable engineering skills. See p.201.

W See the Miraculous Icon of the Black Madonna (Czstochowa): The first Pau-line monks started coming to the Jasna Gra Monastery in the 14th century. Over the years, it evolved into Catholic Polands most important pilgrimage destination and place of worship, drawing millions of Poles and other people from around the world every year. Authorship of the miraculous Black Madonna icon is traditionally attributed to Luke, and the painting is said to have made its way here through the centuries from the Holy Lands, to Constantinople (now Istanbul), to the Ukrainian city of Belz, and finally to Czstochowa in 1382. The monastery allows the painting to be viewed for only a few hours each day, and getting a glimpse of it among the throngs is not unlike trying to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre. Still, its worth the effort. See p.109.

W Take in Some Socialist Realist Architecture (Warsaw, Krakw, and Katowice): Poles loathe it, but the architecture built during the Communist period is worth seeking out, if only for its downright wackiness. Some of the finest buildings include Warsaws Palace of Culture and the housing development of Pl. Konsty-tucja, the Nowa Huta housing project near Krakw, and the Spodek in Katowice.

THE best HOTEL SPLURGESW Podewils (Gda^sk): Boutique hotels with genuine Old World flair, run by a crew

with Jeeves touch for pampering guests, are few and far between in Poland. Podewils is one of these rarities. Youll feel like the personal guest of an aristocratic pal. See p.245.

W Hotel Carska (Biaowie9a National Park): A hotel fit for a tsarin this case, Rus-sias Tsar Nicholas II. A must for fans of unusual hotel design, this hotel/restaurant occupies a refurbished railway station that was built to welcome the tsar and his family in the 19th century. The waiting room has been converted into an upscale restaurant, but you may not want to ever leave your room. See p.289.


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W Palac Bonerowski (Krakw): One of Krakws most recent entries in the five-star category is a stunner: a sensitively restored 13th-century town house just off the main square. Many period elements, including original stonework and carvings, have been preserved in the spacious rooms. See p.140.

W Jaczno Lodge (Suwaki Landscape Park): This lovely cluster of stone-and-timber houses is hemmed in by woods and the pristine water of Lake Jaczno. The owners are architects who have meticulously designed every space, from the luxurious rooms to the rose bushes and fruit trees in the garden. See p.280.

W Hotel Monopol (Wrocaw): The hotel where Marlene Dietrich once stayed has undergone a thorough renovation. Purists might lament the loss of the old Art Nouveau interiors, but the sleek ultra-modern rooms will certainly appeal to lovers of cutting-edge contemporary design. This is the only hotel weve seen with its own in-house high-end wine-and-cheese shop. See p.195.

W Paac Paulinum (Jelenia Gra): This elegant 19th-century palais was originally the home of a Silesian textile baron; now, its a stunningly renovated luxury hotel but, thankfully, still without the ultra-luxury price tag. See p.207.

W Lalala Arthotel (Sopot): Several imaginative and eccentric rooms designed by photographers and artists are on offer here. The owners have a deft touch for mak-ing you feel right at home. See p.254.

W Andels (d3): Trendy, gleaming high-end luxury hotel carved out of one of the citys abandoned textile mills. This is a must visit for fans of Dwell and Wallpaper magazines to see what can be done with a warehouse made of blackened mortar and with loads and loads of vision (and cash). See p.105.

THE best HOTEL BARGAINSW Hotel Karmel (Krakw): This lovely family-run inn, tucked away on a quiet street

in the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, is a total surprise. From the warm and smiling receptionist at the front desk to the parquet flooring and the crisp linens on the beds, everything about this place says quality. See p.142.

W Premiere Classe (Warsaw): This French-run chain came up with the novel idea of offering clean, modern rooms the size of a cubicle for a fraction of the price of other hotels. Sure, the rooms are microscopic, but the beds are big and comfort-able, the bathrooms are clean, and the hotel location is just a couple of tram stops from the main sights. See p.75.

W Castle Inn (Warsaw): A restored 16th-century inn thats clean, priced to please, and has a wacky, theatrical side, to boot. The effects are created by bold colors and an eclectic blend of antique and modern furnishings. See p.73.

W Pensjonat Szarotka (Zakopane): This quirky 1930s mountain chalet is the perfect place to try to tap into Zakopanes funky, artistic past. The squeaky stairways, the cozy little reading room with a fireplace, and the evocative black-and-white photos on the wall will remind you of your grandmothers house. See p.160.

W U Pana Cogito (Krakw): One of the best hotel bargains in Krakw is a remodeled former rectory about 15 minutes by foot from the city center. The modern rooms dont have loads of personality, but they are spotlessly clean and quiet. See p.143.

W Wenecki (Czstochowa): A bargain hotel offering inviting, even beautiful, rooms with hardwood floors and big comfortable beds. The reception is welcoming, and the overall effect is actually much nicer and more comfortable than the most expensive hotels in town. See p.111.


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1 W Angelo (Katowice): Plan to arrive on the weekend to slip in under 100 a night for a posh and arty room that would cost at least twice that anywhere else. Everything is brand new, from the splashy interiors to the big flat-screen TVs. See p.115.

W Liburnia (Cieszyn): A cross between a business hotel and a boutique at prices youd expect to pay at a pension. The mattresses are thick and comfortable, and the cotton-thread count in the sheets is well above the average at this price point. The in-house Italian restaurant is one of the best places in town to eat. See p.119.

W Hotel Savoy (d3): A likeably rundown, turn-of-the-20th-century hotel that feels perfectly in sync with d3s seen better days aesthetic. Dont expect a charming boutique; this is a pure time-warp property (the kind of hotel that might appear in a noir detective novel). If youve got a bit more to spend, try the tonier Grand Hotel around the cornerall of the Old World charm, but without the creaky floors and antiquated plumbing. See p.106.

W Tourist Information Office (Tarnw): The Tarnw city tourist information office rents out the rooms above the office at some of the cheapest rates youll find in the whole country. See p.163.

W Pensjonat Sioo Budy (Biaowie9a National Park): This is homestead living for those wanting a taste of rural life without forsaking clean toilets, hot showers, and espresso. The owners, folk-history enthusiasts, have fashioned four traditional chalets around a garden of apple trees, flowers, ferns, and fluttering butterflies. See p.290.

W Obera Pod Psem (Mazury): Get a taste of Mazurian village life at this charming cottage. The owners are conservationists and champions of folk culture who sal-vaged the century-old wooden buildings here to open up a restaurant, a folk museum, and an inn. See p.276.

W Kamienica Gotyk (Gda^sk): Ordinarily, youd expect to part with a fortune to enjoy the hotels setting in Gda^sks oldest house and on its loveliest street. Breakfast on the petite patio in the shadows of St. Marys Church adds to the sense of history. Book well in advance. See p.246.

W Vincent Pensjonat (Kazimierz Dolny): An enchanting, family-run pension, situ-ated about 5 minutes from the center of town. See p.188.

THE best LOCAL DININGW Piwnica widnicka (Wrocaw): At first glance, this pub looks like a classic tourist

trap; but its actually an excellent traditional Polish restaurant serving big plates of classic dishes. See p.198.

W U Kucharzy (Warsaw): Its perhaps an ironic comment on Polish cooking that one of the capitals best restaurantsit received a Michelin Bib Gourmandis actu-ally in a hotel kitchen. If youre a kitchen voyeur, book a table in front of the mega-burners to watch the chefs prepare Polish mainstays up close and personal. See p.77.

W Alfredo (Szklarska Porba): Proof that in Poland you can never judge a restaurant by its cover. If so, youd never dream of stopping at this tiny mom-and-pop, and youd end up missing some excellent home-style Polish cooking. See p.208.

W Pawowicz (Warsaw): A take-out-only, hole-in-the-wall operation that draws a constant flow of customers looking for the citys best doughnuts (pczki) and pas-tries at bargain prices. Youll find branches in Sopot and Wrocaw. See p.79.


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W Bolkw Hotel Restaurant (Bolkw/Jawor): The restaurant at the tiny Bolkw Hotel specializes in home cooking done well, including big plates of roasted meats served with mounds of mashed potatoes. The desserts are homemade, and the throwback atmosphere to the 1920s is fun and inviting. See p.203.

W Cigoty i Tsknoty (d3): Perched between two ghastly apartment blocks, this small, unassuming restaurant is an oasis of 50s jazz and fresh flowers. The menu is perched somewhere between home cooking and haute cuisine, with salads, pierogi, and pasta dishes, and some seriously good entrees. Take a taxi to get there or risk never finding it. See p.107.

W Wierzynek (Krakw): This esteemed eatery has played host to visiting dignitaries, celebs, and heads of state since way back in 1364. The cuisine is an imaginative take on traditional Polish cooking, with an emphasis on local treats such as wild boar, quail, and venison. See p.144.

W Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz) (Krakw-Kazim-ierz): Finally, a Jewish-themed restaurant in Kazimierz that doesnt feel like a kitschy tourist trap. The interior is relaxed and intimate, and the food is great. See p.146.

W La Rotisserie (Warsaw): For those in the know, this is one of the capitals most inviting splurge options. It helps to be a foodie to know some of the terms on the menu, but everything is great, so just point to an item and relax. For great value, try the five-course Sunday linner (a word play on lunch and dinner). See p.76.

W Hacjenda (Pozna^): This is rumored to be the best place in Poland to try czernina, a soup made from ducks blood and bits of offal. They also do a good roast duck, if blood soup isnt on your list of must-tries. See p.222.

W Jurta (Kruszyniany): A breath away from the Belarusian border, you can dig into hearty Tatar cuisine made by descendents of the original Mongol invaders. Try the donuts; theyd outmatch Krispy Kremes any day of the week. See p.285.

W Kawiarnia Nalenikarnia (Jelenia Gra): What a surprise to find this excellent creperiewith fantastic concoctions of chocolate, nuts, and whipped creamright on Jelenia Gras handsome town square. See p.208.

W Fantasmagoria (Katowice): Easily the best restaurant in town, and possibly all of this part of Poland. Excellent and inventive home-style cooking that takes equal inspiration from Ukrainian and eastern Polish classics, mixed with more modern notions of using local ingredients and a fresh presentation. See p.116.

W Ogrdek Pod Jaboniami (Augustw): A casual, family-friendly restaurant set alongside the Augustw canal in an apple orchard. You wont find any airs or themes here, just owners Pawe and Sylwia, who want you to leave with good culinary memories of the local fish and traditional soup and meat dishes. See p.281.

W Knajpa U Fryzjera (Kazimierz Dolny): Wacky Jewish-themed tavern restaurant with hearty dishes featuring roast meats and stews. The atmosphere is festive, with lots of alcohol to accompany the excellent cooking. In nice weather, grab a table out back and drink long into the night. See p.188.

W Maszoperia (Hel Peninsula): A simple fish restaurant where all they need for you to have an Ive never had fish this good! experience is a frying pan and a little butter to fry the fish in. The setting is nothing more than a high-end fish shack stuffed with fishermens tools. See p.258.


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1 W Muzealna (Zamo15): Handsome and memorable restaurant set in three brick Renaissance cellars that look like theyve just stepped out of the 16th century. The traditional Polish cooking is superb. See p.184.

THE best PLACES TO GET PIEROGIW Leniwa (Toru^): Leniwa means lazy, but the genial folks here are anything but in

making some of the best pierogi in the country. The various types of sweet and savory dumplings come with bargain-basement prices. Its popular with locals, so be prepared to wait. See p.232.

W Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej (Warsaw): Not far from the Royal Castle, a lovely cobblestone lane leads to this vaulted-ceilinged chamber. The menu has all the usual suspects and a bunch of hard-to-find varieties. See p.79.

W Pierogarnia U Dzika (Gda^sk): Pierogi used to be widely dismissed as dowdy peas-ant food, but no longer. At this is upscale pierogarnialiterally, pierogi restau-ranttheyre all the rage. The menu includes the usual fillings, plus a few inventive variants such as Pierogi Wile^ski, stuffed with a delicious buckwheat and bacon combo. See p.248.

W Pieroki U Vincenta (Krakw): This tiny and inviting pierogi joint in Kazimierz serves every style of pierogi imaginable. The house special, Vincent, is stuffed with minced meat and spicy lentils, and served with fried onions and bits of bacon. Other concoctions include Moroccan-inspired couscous pierogi and Grale (highlander) pierogi stuffed with sheeps cheese. See p.147.

W Domowy Przysmaki (Krakw): An informal lunch counter, with excellent pierogi (try the fruit-filled varieties). Its just a few minutes walk from the main square and has the best-value lunch for miles around. See p.147.

THE best SOUVENIRSW Amber (Gda^sk): What is it about this ossified pine-tar resin thats so mesmeriz-

ing? Gda^sk grew wealthy over the centuries on the amber trade, and the demand today is as strong as ever. Gda^sk, on the Baltic (the source of amber), is the tra-ditional home of the stuff, but youll find amber at shops all around the country. Just be careful to buy the genuine articlefakes abound. See p.249.

W Salt from the Wieliczka Salt Mine (Krakw): This might be the most famous salt mine in the world. For years, salt was to Krakw as amber was to Gda^sk: the goose that laid golden eggs, and kept laying and laying. Salt is not nearly so important for Krakw these days, but the resplendent Wieliczka Salt Mine is a reminder of how valuable a commodity salt once was. See p.149.

W Bison Grass from Biaowiea (Biaowie9a National Park): This is an especially long, fragrant grass that grows near the Biaowie9a National Forest. Despite the name, the bison dont actually graze on it. Youll find a blade of bison grass in every bottle of 0ubrwka Vodka, which might be the most practical way to buy (or con-sume) it. You can even make your own bison grass vodka by referring to the instructions on the package the grass is sold in. See p.286.


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W Household Items from the Communist Era (Warsaw and Pozna^): Poles tend to shun the retro tea services, ashtrays, and glassware of the Soviet period; however, that doesnt mean they dont have real kitsch value. Skip the upscale antique shops and try looking at flea markets such as Koo in Warsaw and the Antique Market at Stara Rze3nia in Pozna^. See p.93 and 218.

W Gingerbread (Toru^): Toru^ is the countrys gingerbread capital, and Toru^ ginger-bread is sold all around the country. The gingerbread comes in all shapes and sizes, and usually is sold well wrapped for the long trip home. See p.230.

W Smoked Sheeps Cheese (Giant Mountains/Zakopane): The closer you get to the mountains, the more likely you are to see mountain people lined up along the road to sell their little rounds of smoked sheeps cheese called oscypek. Its considered a delicacy, and the recipe goes back some 500 years. Buy several different types to see which ones you like best. The salty cheese goes especially well with beer. See p.162.

W Vodka: Poland is known for the high quality of its vodka. Among the most popular brands, Belvedere and Chopin are considered the best. In addition, youll find a range of unusual vodkas, including 0ubrwka, slightly greenish due to a long blade of bison grass in every bottle, and Miodwka, honey-flavored and easy to drink in large quantities. See p.28.

THE best COMMUNIST-ERA EXPERIENCESW Visit the Palace of Culture and Science (Warsaw): Warsaws landmark Socialist-

Realist palace is the granddaddy of all Communist architectural icons. Universally loathed, yet at the same time thoroughly riveting, you wont be able to take your eyes off it. Tour the museums inside or take an elevator ride to the top to look out over Warsaw. Part of the fun are the ever-present guards, ready to bark nie dotyka5 (do not touch!) the moment you get close to any of the exhibits. See p.84.

W Check in at the Jantar Hotel (Hel Peninsula): Back in the day, job perks often came in the form of time off at resorts like this one, set up by the government for their very best employees. Hotel Jantar was originally conceived for military per-sonnel out for a bit of R&R, but now its open to civilians, as well. Happily, the original decor and spirit remain intact. Definitely a close-up of the way we were. See p.258.

W Eat at a Milk Bar: Every visitor to Poland eventually has to have his or her milk bar experience. A milk barthe milk refers to the fact that no alcohol is servedhas no direct American or Western European equivalent. Cafeteria sounds too sterile, and greasy spoon, well, too greasy. But thats the idea, at any rate: heaping steam tables of mostly meatless Polish specialties that you line up for and then point to. Not bad tasting and can be a good value, but bring your phrase book since milk-bar staff tend to speak Polish and only Polish.

W See a Concert at the Spodek (Katowice): Katowices retro-futuristic Flying Sau-cer building may be the coolest rock concert venue ever built. Its the citys best representative of the Brussels Expo 58 style of design inspired by 1950s-era sci-ence and science fiction that influenced so many architects behind the Iron Cur-tain at the time. Performers like Robbie Williams, Pearl Jam, and Sir Elton John have played here. See p.114.


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1 THE best WAYS TO ACT LIKE A LOCALW Drink Beer from a Straw: This inexplicable practice is especially popular among

women, but occasionally youll see Polish guys doing it, as well. The idea is to sweeten the beer first with fruit juice, usually raspberry, and then sip the mixture like a cocktail. Watch out for the consequences, though. Polish beer is unusually strong, and drinking through a straw only heightens the effect of the alcohol.

W Line up for Ice Cream: Poles are loony for lody (ice cream). Part of the attraction comes from Communist days, when ice cream was one of the few pleasures acces-sible to most people. Part of the attraction is also, well, because its ice cream and it tastes really good. Each city has its own ice cream stand of choice. The best strategy is to scout around and see where the longest lines are.

W Eat Sushi: That doesnt sound Polish at all, yet the country is currently experienc-ing sushi mania, and some seriously good sushi joints are springing up all over. The Poles love affair with fish is understandable. After all, Poland is right on the Baltic Sea, and dishes such as herring have been part of the local cuisine for centuries. For some of the best sushi in the country, try the Sakana Sushi Bar in Wrocaw or Edo Sushi Bar in Kazimierz. See p.197 and p.144.

W Feed Breadcrumbs to the Pigeons: Youll see the young and old alike at nearly every big square in every Polish town tossing breadcrumbs to flocks of pigeons. And they are the bane of city officials around the country trying to fight the onslaught of unwanted fowl. The problem is so serious that officials in Krakw even consid-ered dynamiting the birds. But as the old saying goesif you cant beat them, might as well join them.

W Go Mushroom-Picking: Mushroom-picking is a popular autumn pastime for all Poles. The best strategy for success is to get up early to scour the forest floors for the fungus of choice, usually chanterelle, porcini, and milk caps. One caveat: Dont try this if youre not experienced at sorting out the edible from the poisonous vari-eties. If youre staying in the countryside, simply ask your host to arrange a mush-room hunt for you. Most likely, they will have an aunt or cousin who knows the best place to land a bagful of mushrooms for your morning omelet.

W Go Shopping at a Farmers Market: Most Polish cities will have a central market filled with goodies such as fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, breads, and meats. Often, these will also have a little pierogi stand for a quick bite. Theyre the perfect one-stop shop for a picnic lunch. Check out the Hala Mirowska in Warsaw or the Hala Targowa in Wrocaw. See p.93 and p.249.

W Have a Kebab: In recent years, Poles have developed an insatiable appetite for anything vaguely Middle Eastern. Truth be told, the quality of the street-stand kebabs is only average at best, but the mood is always festive, and you get to rub shoulders with all walks of Polish lifestudents, business folks, the homeless, and late-night clubbers. In Krakw, youll get the same local feeling by indulging in a zapiekanka, a toasted baguette slathered with cheese, ham, and ketchup, and baked in a hot oven. Find the best of these is at Plac Nowy in Kazimierz. See p.132.


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THE best DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGHW d: On the outside, Polands second-largest city (pronounced Woodge)

appears cold and gray, a former industrial powerhouse that has gone through some tough times and looks it. But the more you find out about the place, the more fascinating it gets: the center of Polands film industry, an enormous prewar Jewish population, the biggest shopping mall in Europe, an active culture calendar, and a great art museum. The list goes on. See p.100.

W Kazimierz (Krakw): Next to Krakws glamorous Old Town, Kazimierz, the citys former Jewish ghetto, looks positively derelict. And that appears to be its secret charm. What else could explain Kazimierzs increasing popularity among Krakws ultra-cool and arty set? After admiring the handsome buildings of the Old Town, come out here to party and let your hair downand see what really makes Krakw tick. See p.132.

W Tarnw: The small city of Tarnw, east of Krakw, came late to the tourism party but is making up for lost time with the friendliest tourist information office in the country, as well as some decent museums and the occasional blockbuster exhibi-tion. If Krakws crowded streets get a little too much to bear, head to Tarnw for a respite before it too becomes too popular for its own good. One nice surprise is a Western-style horse-riding ranch in the vicinity thats happy to set up greenhorns for the day. See p.162.

W Katowice: Cool in the way that Cleveland is cool or, in the U.K., maybe the way Glasgow or Manchester is cool. This big industrial citys charms are hard to pin down, but there is definitely something there. Maybe its the retro-futuristic flying-saucer buildingthe Spodekor all of the other Communist-era architecture around. Or the fact that it feels authentic, and there are absolutely no other tour-ists around. The wags at the local office of Katowice, In Your Pocket have tried to carve out a kind of anti-cool image for the city, calling it a needed antidote to overly prettified and touristed Krakw. See p.112.

W Nowa Huta (Krakw): Its hard to make a Socialist-era housing project next to a steel mill sound like something you might want to see on your vacation. But this planned 1950s community is undeniably chic. Architecture and urban planning buffs will be drawn to the plans and designs of housing designed especially for the workers state. Irony of ironies, they even named the main square after union-busting, anti-Communist U.S. President Ronald Reagan. See p.135.

W Praga District (Warsaw): Not too many years ago, Warsaws rough-and-tumble Praga district, on the other side of the Vistula River from the heart of the city, used to be a no-go zone. The low rents, though, attracted the artistic crowd, and now its emerging into the capitals coolest neighborhood. Dont expect anything quite like Kazimierz in Krakw yet, but several good restaurants and clubs are up and run-ning, and the future promises to bring more. See p.89.


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1 THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIESW Hiking in the Tatras (Zakopane): Zakopane is the jumping-off point for hundreds

of miles of gorgeous hiking trails. You can try one of the 2,000m (6,562-ft.) assaults on the peaks or a more leisurely stroll along breathtaking valleys carved out by tiny mountain streams. For more ambitious climbers, plan a whole-day outing to cross the peaks into Slovakia in summer. See p.157.

W Biking in the Giant Mountains (Szklarska Porba): Szklarska Porba has evolved into the mountain-biking capital of southern Poland. More than a dozen trails, catering to all skill levels, fan out from the town in every direction. Some of the trails are all-day affairs, while others are shorter and oriented more toward recre-ational cyclists or families with children. Pick up a free cycling map from the tourist information office. See p.206.

W Rafting the Dunajec River (near Zakopane): The Dunajec River marks the coun-trys southeastern border with Slovakia. It winds through a picturesque gorge in the Pieniny Mountains east of the Tatras that makes it absolutely perfect for rafting. The season runs from April through October, and on a sunny afternoon, this can be a fabulous day out, especially for kids. Its less whitewater rafting and more of a slow, gentle float down the river on group rafts manned by Grale mountain men kitted out in their traditional folk garb. The boating center on the Polish side is at Sromowce Kty, not far from Zakopane. See p.158.

W Kayaking in Northeastern Poland (Mazury and Augustw): Rivers and canals crisscross the lake districts of northeastern Poland, allowing you to drift from marshland to woodland, with plenty of bird-watching in between. You can paddle for 1 day or 7; there are plenty of routesrated from kid-friendly to daredevilto choose from. See p.274 and p. 277.

W Downhill Skiing (Giant Mountains and Tatras): Poland is not the first country that comes to mind when you think of skiing in Europe. But in the south of the country, in the mountainous areas near the Czech Republic and Slovakia, there are several excellent ski resorts and some very good downhill runs. The countrys longest ski run is at Szklarska Porba in the Giant Mountains. The most popular resort is Zakopane in the Tatras. Both have good infrastructures with lifts and ski rentals. See p.206 and p.158.

W Swimming in the Baltic (Hel Peninsula and eba): A beach holiday in Poland? It doesnt seem possible, yet thousands of people flock to the resorts around Sopot in the summer to dip their toes (quite literally, given the temperature of the water) in the Baltic Sea. There are miles of sandy beaches, and the water is clean and refreshing. Pity that the surf temp rarely rises to above tolerable, but thats really part of the charm. See p.256.

THE best MUSEUMSW Museum of the Warsaw Uprising (Warsaw): When youre done walking through

the exhibitions and watching the startling documentaries filmed during the fight-ing in 1944 on display here, youll understand a lot more about the Poles resolve to preserve their nation. Just the photos alone of Warsaws total destruction will leave you in awe that this city still exists at all. See p.86.


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W Museum of Zakopane Style (Zakopane): This low-key museum is dedicated to the fine woodworking craft of the early Zakopane architects of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. No stunning, high-tech visuals, just beautifully carved furnishings and a wonderful aesthetic feel. They took the lowly log cabin and made it a palace. See p.157.

W Galicia Jewish Museum (Krakw-Kazimierz): The main exhibition here features contemporary and often beautiful photographs of important Jewish sites through-out southern Poland taken by the late British photographer Chris Schwarz. Schwarz spent 12 years traveling throughout Poland using photography as a way of trying to preserve the countrys rapidly disappearing Jewish heritage. The effect here works beautifully. See p.133.

W Czartoryski Museum (Krakw): Members of the noble Czartoryski family were gifted art collectors, and this collection is one of the finest in central Europe. Two international masterpieces are on display: Leonardo da Vincis Lady with an Ermine and Rembrandts Landscape with the Good Samaritan. See p.129.

W Gingerbread Museum (Toru^): The town of Toru^ is famous for two things: the birthplace of Copernicus and gingerbread cookies. At this privately owned museum, you not only learn the secret ingredients of great gingerbread, but also get to make your own. Good fun and great for kids. See p.230.

W Roads to Freedom Exhibition (Gda^sk): An inspiring and sobering history lesson of the anti-Communist struggle in Poland. The mock-up of a typical empty grocery store in late 1970s, grainy news reels, interactive displays, and documentary films keenly capture the atmosphere of the times. See p.240.

W d Art Museum: A must for fans of modern art, the collection includes works by Marc Chagall and Max Ernst. Skip the bottom floors and head straight for the museums prize pieces on the upper levels, including several of Stanislaw Witkacys amazing society sketches from the 1920s. See p.104.

W Amber Museum (Gda^sk): A must for all fans of the beautiful ossified pine resin that helped make Gda^sk wealthy. On six floors of exhibits, youll learn everything youll ever need to know about amber; if youre thinking of buying some amber while youre in Gda^sk, you might want to stop here first for an educational primer. See p.238.

W Museum of Cinematography (d3): International film fans will want to stop here to pay tribute to Polands panoply of great directors, including Roman Pola^ski, Andrzej Wajda, and Krzysztof Kieslowski, all of whom studied and worked in d3. See p.105.

W Ethnographic Museum (Tarnw): A rare and fascinating exhibition on the history and culture of Europes Roma (Gypsy) population, it traces the emergence of the Roma from parts of modern-day India some 1,000 years ago to their arrival in Europe and subsequent (mostly tragic) history. See p.164.

W Chopin Museum (Warsaw): The city where Chopin was raised wants to tell you everything there is to know about the composer. The museum was recently thoroughly revamped to deliver Chopin stories and melodies via high-tech media. See p.83.

W Museum of Icons (Supra1l): This is the most extensive collection of Orthodox icons in Poland. The exhibits are thoughtfully laid out to give you a full picture of the history of the Orthodox faith. See p.283.

W Pharmacy Museum (Krakw): One of the biggest and best old-style pharmacy museums in this part of the world, with fascinating exhibits of potions, leeches, and concoctions that show just how far modern medicine has come. See p.130.


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1 THE best CASTLES & CHURCHESW Wawel (Krakw): Polands pride and joy, and the countrys number-one tourist

attraction, the original castle dates from around the 10th century, when the area was first chosen as the seat of Polish kings. For more than 5 centuries, the castle stood as the home of Polish royalty. See p.131.

W Malbork Castle: This castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the biggest brick castle in the world, is silent testimony to the power and influence the Teu-tonic Knights once had in this part of Poland. See p.262.

W Ksia, Castle (Wabrzych): The 400-room Ksi9 Castle is the biggest castle in Lower Silesia. It was originally laid out in the 13th century by members of the early Polish nobility but was refurbished and rebuilt several times down through the centuries, resulting in todays baroque-Renaissance-rococo-neoclassical mish-mash. See p.200.

W St. Marys Basilica (Krakw): Krakw is a city of churches, and this is its signature house of worship, right on the main square. The elaborately carved 15th-century wooden altarpiece is the biggest of its kind in Europe. The rest of the interior is similarly impressive, but the highlight of the church is not on the inside, its the forlorn bugler in the high tower, playing his hourly dirge. See p.130.

W Zamo Synagogue (Zamo15): An unexpected and beautiful reminder of the size and vitality of the preWorld War II Jewish community in Zamo15. Nearly every southern Polish city had a sizable Jewish community before the war, but very few synagogues of this quality have survived. See p.183.

W St. Marys Church (Gda^sk): This enormous red-brick church is reputedly the largest of its kind in the world. Its nave and 31 chapels can hold more than 20,000 people. The church endeared itself to the people of Gda^sk in the years after the imposition of martial law in 1981, when members of the Solidarity trade union sheltered here. See p.242.

W St. Elizabeth Church (Wrocaw): Wrocaw was so thoroughly rebuilt following World War II that its only in the citys solemn red-brick churches, like this one on the northwest corner of the main square, that you really see something of prewar Breslau (and witness the surviving scars of the war). See p.193.

W Kodzko Fortress: This fortress has played an important strategic role for centu-ries, straddling the traditional borderland first between the Polish and Bohemian kingdoms, and then later Prussia and Austria. The present massive structure dates from the middle of the 18th century. Napoleon, early on, shattered the fortresss illusion of invincibility by capturing the structure in 1807. During World War II, the Nazis used the fortress to hold political prisoners. Today, it is the regions lead-ing tourist attraction for the labyrinth of underground tunnels once used for troop mustering, hiding, and escape, if necessary. See p.210.


2POLAND IN DEPTH

Poland suddenly finds itself on everyones hot list for European travel. Thats right, Polandthe land of cab-bage, potatoes, and vodkawhich not all that long ago was still trapped behind the Iron Curtain with its own

bleak images of strikes and tanks. All of that seems a world away these days. Poland has gone on a more than 20-year renovation project since the Communist government fell in 1989. The hotels and restaurants have had long-overdue makeovers, the buildings and squares have been spruced up, and Poland these days is very much open for business.

And while the cabbage and vodka are still great, there are lots of other good reasons to visit. For some, a trip to Poland is an opportunity to recon-nect with their Polish roots, a chance to sample some of their grand-mothers kielbasa and pierogi in their natural setting. Others are attracted to the unique beauty of cities such as Krakw, which has rightfully joined Prague and Budapest as part of the trinity of must-sees in central Europe.

Still others are drawn by Polands dramatic and often tragic history. The horrors of World War II, followed by decades of Communist rule, have etched painful and moving memories throughout this land. No country, with the possible exception of Russia, suffered as much as Poland during World War II. Millions of Poles, and nearly the entire prewar Jewish population of more than 3 million, were killed in fighting or in the con-centration camps. The deeply affecting and sobering experience of seeing the extermination camps at Auschwitz and Birkenau, near Krakw, will last a lifetime. Nearly equally moving are the stories of the d3 and Warsaw Jewish ghettos, or the tragic story of the Warsaw uprising of 1944, when the citys residents rose up courageously, but futilely, against their Nazi oppressors.

There are plenty of triumphant moments from history, as well. In War-saw, which was 85% destroyed during World War II, the entire Old Town has been rebuilt brick by brick in an emotional show of a city reclaiming its identity from the rubble. In Gda^sk, you can visit the shipyards where Lech Wasa and his Solidarity trade union first rose to power to oppose Polands Communist government in 1980. It was the rise of Solidarity that helped to bring down Communism in Poland and arguably sparked the anti-Communist revolutions that swept through all of Eastern Europe in1989.

And there is plenty of natural beauty here, as well. In the south of the country, below Krakw, rise the majestic High Tatras, one of Europes


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most starkly beautiful alpine ranges. To the north, the Baltic Sea coast, with its pris-tine beaches, stretches for miles. The little-traveled northeast is covered with lakes that run to the borderlands with Lithuania and Belarus. In the east of the country, youll find patches of some of Europes last-remaining primeval forest and a small herd of the indigenous bison that once covered large parts of the European continent.

POLAND TODAYPoland these days finds itself a bit like a gangly adolescent on the world stage. With a population of around 40 million people, Poland is by far the biggest of the mainly former Communist countries that joined the European Union in 2004, and it has slowly grown into a kind of regional leader, though the region in question, Eastern Europe, can seldom agree on anything. Its also one of the biggest EU member states overall, just below the most-populous countries of Germany, France, and Britain, but on par with mid-sized countries like Spain. After 40 years of Communist rule, and with just a few short years to hone its Western diplomatic skills, youd expect a few blunders, and Poland has made its share. But its also shown itself willing to oppose bigger states to protect its own interests. It went up against Germany a couple of years ago when the Germans wanted to make a separate natural gas deal with Russia and cut Poland out of the picture. Its also gone up against France several times, most vocally to get France to open up its labor market to Polish workers. And it defied the EU as a whole on several occasions, famously siding with the U.S. in the Iraq war, over French objections, and agreeing to host part of a U.S. anti-missile battery aimed at defending the U.S. and Europe against rockets fired from Iran. That project was later cancelled by the administration of U.S. President Barack Obama, but Polands decision to back the U.S. cemented the countrys reputation as arguably the strongest U.S. ally on the European continent.

In summer 2012, both Poland and Ukraine will co-host the UEFA Euro 2012 football (soccer) championshipthe biggest event in soccer after the FIFA World Cup. Participating teams are drawn from around Europe in a series of qualifying matches in the run-up to the tournament, which kicks off June 8, 2012, in Warsaw. The final will be held in the Ukrainian capital, Kyiv, on July 1. If youre a soccer fan, these 3 short weeks are certain to be the closest thing to heaven on Earth as tens of thousands of like-minded fans from around the globe descend on the coun-try in droves for games in Gdask,

Pozna, Wrocaw, and Warsaw. High hotel prices, fully booked restaurants, and packed train cars are just part of the fun; a small price to pay if youre a soccer fanatic and want to take part in the party. On the other hand, if youve got only a passing interest in the game, you might consider planning your trip to avoid the tournament, though Polish officials have made a point of saying there will be sufficient accommodation for all. Tickets for the Polish matches go on sale in spring 2011. For more informa-tion and schedules, consult the UEFA website: www.uefa.com/uefaeuro2012.

Euro Cup 2012: Soccer Comes to Poland


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Domestic PoliticsPoland suffered a tremendous setback in April 2010 when a tragic plane crash in Russia took the lives of Polish President Lech Kaczy^ski, his wife, and more than 90 other Polish leaders and dignitaries. The officials were on their way to commemorate the anniversary of the slaughter of thousands of Polish military officers by the Soviet Union at Katy^ in 1940. The fatal crash, not far from the Katy^ site, was painfully reminiscent of that original tragedy, cementing forever in Poles minds the view of Katy^ as that cursed place.

If theres a bright side to such an epic tragedy, it might be in the way the plane crash served to pull Poles together from all points of the political spectrum. While there was considerable controversy over the decision to bury the right-wing Kaczy^ski and his wife at Krakws fabled Wawel Castle, there was also a palpable feeling of a shared national tragedy and the need to work together to heal divisions. Given Polands fragmented politics, its hard to say how long this warm, fuzzy feeling will last, but its fair to point out that Poland survived the crash, and the loss of staggering number of leaders and politicians, without skipping a beat, and thats a considerable achievement.

As with many of the new Eastern European democracies in the years following the fall of Communism in 1989, Poland has lurched rightward and leftward over the years without really establishing any firm political framework.

In the immediate aftermath of the fall of Communism, the country was led by former Solidarity leader Lech Wasa. Wasas presidency was marked by back-bit-ing, infighting, and a splintering of the party system to such an extent that governing proved practically impossible. Voters then surprisingly opted for a former Commu-nist, Aleksander Kwa1niewski. Kwa1niewskis rule brought unexpected stability and political progress, though in time gave way to the right-wing government of the late Lech Kaczy^ski and renewed bickering. In July 2010, Polish voters elected center-right candidate Bronisaw Komorowski to succeed Kaczy^ski as president in an elec-tion widely praised for showing the countrys growing political maturity.

EconomyLuckily for Poles, this lack of political stability has not seemed to harm economic development. Indeed, even as the global economic crisis was bearing down on Europe in 2009 and 2010, the Polish economy continued to buck the trend. Whereas most national economies in Europe went into a recession in 2009, Poland actually experienced modest growth that year and the economy expanded again in 2010. Polands currency, the zoty, has declined modestly in value with respect to the U.S. dollar but, as we were going to press, had managed to avoid the precipitous drop of the EUs common currency, the euro (and Polish efforts to adapt the euro have been put on the back burner for several years to come).

The rising economy continues a trend that began some 2 decades ago as Poland began to pull itself out of an economic collapse caused by a catastrophic World War and 4 decades of incompetent Communist rule. Communism bequeathed to Poland some of the European continents lowest living standards. Now, young Poles can realistically look forward to a time in their lifetimes when wages and living standards begin to approximate Western Europe.

To be sure, in spite of the economic progress over the past 20 years, youll still run across many depressed areasparticularly in industrial cities such as d3 and in


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large parts of Warsaw itself. Youll also see greater numbers than you might expect of homeless people, public drunks, beggars, and those who have simply fallen through the cracks. Not everyone has benefited equally from the countrys rapid transforma-tion to a democratic political system and a free-market economy. Industrial workers, particularly those over the age of 50, for whom adapting to the changes proved more difficult, have been hardest hit.

Young people, too, have found it difficult to cope with ever-rising living costs on very low wages. Many have left the country for places like the U.K. and Ireland, where they can earn more tending bar than they can working as young professionals at home.

But its important to put this into perspective. Just 20 years ago, Poland was literally falling apart. The country was $30 billion in debt to international lenders. The air was unbreathable, particularly in Krakw, downwind from the enormous steel mill com-plex at Nowa Huta. It wasnt unusual for Poles to spend hours standing in line simply to buy a piece of fruit or a bottle of imported shampoo. And membership in the European Union was unthinkable. Worst of all, perhaps, was the feeling of utter hopelessness, as if it were somehow Polands fate to end up on the wrong side of his-tory every time. Thats been replaced by something better and infectious: a cautious optimism that maybe this time around the good times are here to stay.

Contact with PolesIn your travels, youll find that Poles are generally highly educated and cultured, with a firm grasp of their countrys long and rich tradition in literature, poetry, performing arts, and film. The strong role of culture in everyday life is not surprising given the countrys tragic history. For the 125 years, until 1918, that Poland ceased to exist as a country, it was this shared culture that held the people together. In modern times, it was a common cultural heritage that helped Poles weather the Nazi and Soviet occupations, and endure 40 years of Communist rule after World War II.

Youll sense, too, a strong feeling of national pride. Poles are proud of their history. Theyre proud of their resistance, however futile, to the Nazi invasion in 1939 and of the tragic Warsaw uprising in 1944. And theyre proud of their countrys leading role in ending Communism in the 1980s. Today, this pride extends to Polands member-ship in the European Union. Americans are likely to feel particularly welcome. Polands ties to the United States go back all the way to Tadeusz Ko1ciuszko and the Revolutionary War. Poles proudly cite Chicago as the second-biggest Polish city in the world after Warsaw (even though these days more young Poles are emigrating to Ireland and the U.K. than to the U.S.). Just about everyone has a cousin, uncle, or grandparent who lives or used to live in one of the 50 states.

LOOKING BACK AT POLANDNowhere in Europe will you feel recent history more strongly than in Poland. The countrys unenviable physical position through the agesbetween Germany in the west and Russia to the east, and without defensible natural bordershas meant Pol-ish history has been one long struggle for survival. It all reads like a giant novel. And, indeed, American author James A. Michener did write a giant novel in 1981 called Poland, chronicling the trials and tribulations of three Polish families over 8 centuries (see Books, later in this chapter). He hardly had to make up a single word.


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The Early Polish KingsThe Poles first established themselves in the areas to the west of Warsaw around the turn of the 1st millennium, descendants of migrant Slav tribes that came to Eastern Europe around a.d. 700a.d. 800. The first documented Polish dynasty was the Piast dynasty, and the countrys first ruler was Duke Mieszko I, who ruled from Pozna^s Ostrw Tumski (see p.194). It was Mieszko who made the decision to be baptized in 966, making Christianity Polands official religion and setting the tone for what would remain to this day one of Europes most deeply Christian and Catholic coun-tries. Though it had its ups and downs, the way that any medieval kingdom would, Poland in the early centuries of its existence was one of Europes most successful countries. From its capital in Krakw, it prospered under first the Piast and later the Jagiellon dynasties, stretching at one point from the Baltic in the north to the Hungar-ian kingdom in the south. It was also known as a comparatively tolerant kingdom, and it was at this time that Poland became known as a sanctuary for Jews. In 1410, the Polish king, allied with Lithuania, successfully fought off a challenge by a wayward order of crusaders, the Teutonic Knights, at the battle of Grnwald in one of the great epic battles of the late Middle Ages. The knights had originally been brought to Poland from the Holy Lands to try to subdue the pagan Prussians. The problem was that they had gotten too big for their own britches and had to be put down: The Teutonic Knights castle at Malbork (p.262) is testament to their boundless ambition.

The seat of government was moved from Krakw to Warsaw in the 16th century after a formal political union with Lithuania greatly expanded Polands territory. The union was signed in 1569 in the city of Lublin (p. 168) and still bears the name Union of Lublin. To this day, its probably the most exciting thing to ever happen to Polands eastern metropolis.

In the 17th century, the Poles are generally credited with saving Europe in another epic battle, this one against the Ottoman Turks. Commander Jan Sobieski saved the day for Christian Europe, repelling the Turks at the gates of Vienna in 1683.

The Rise of Rivals & the Polish PartitionsFrom this point, Polish history runs mostly downhill. A series of wars, first with Swe-den and later with Russia, sapped the monarchys energy and money. Complicated voting rules in Polands early parliament, the Sejm, completely paralyzed the govern-ment. At the same time, both Prussia and tsarist Russia began their long-term rises as great powers. The result was that at the end of the 18th centu

Documents

Frommer's Poland